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Going back again to Portugal

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Old Jul 27th, 2010 | 11:42 AM
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Going back again to Portugal

We spent two days planning, with our friends, the next trip to Portugal, and since we have 2 weeks, we decided to do it very leisurely this time, spending at least 2, often 3 nights in the same place, and doing day trips and ventures, returning to our home base to sleep..

They are unfamiliar with Portugal, so they opted for the Pousadas rather than finding our own lodgiing. We will be 3 days in Obidos, 3 in Viana do Costelo, 2 in Porto, 3 in Lisbon and the last few days are undecided.

If it were your first and only trip to Portugal, what do you consider the 'must sees?"

Thanks.
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Old Jul 27th, 2010 | 12:16 PM
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One of the schist villages. I was fascinated by both the drive to and the village of Piodão.
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Old Jul 28th, 2010 | 02:18 AM
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Hi,

as I'm Portuguese it's kind of hard to decide what the "must sees" are because, to me, there are so many of them. I'll try to point some of them regarding your itinerary:

- Óbidos: if you like beaches you should go to Peniche and/or Nazaré. In terms of monuments, be sure to check the following: Mosteiro de Alcobaça (in Alcobaça), Mosteiro da Batalha (in Batalha), the Medieval Castles in Leiria, Ourém and Tomar, and the Convent of the Order of Christ in Tomar (World Heritage Site);

- Viana do Castelo: from Viana I would recommend going to Ponte de Lima (beautiful city), Vila Nova de Cerveira (from the top of the hills you'll have amazing views from the surroundings including the Minho river) and Valença do Minho (the ancient city is inside medieval walls). You can also go to Peneda-Gerês National Park. Another worthy trip is going to Caminha, cross the Minho river in ferry boat to A Guarda in Spain, and going to the archaeological findings in Monte Santa Tegra. Braga and Guimarães are also to consider.

- Porto: two days in Porto hardly gives you time to explore the city and the surrounding area. If you stay another day, I would recommend going on a day cruise to the Douro Valley wine region. Always worth the trip.

- Lisbon: with only 3 days, I strongly suggest you to explore the city and take a day off to go to Sintra. Magical city. Make sure you go to Palácio da Pena, Castelo dos Mouros and Quinta da Regaleira. You won't regret it.

Another places you might consider (Braga and Guimarães as I mentioned) are Aveiro and Coimbra, on your way down South from Porto to Lisbon.

If you need more tips, I'll be glad to help.
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Old Jul 28th, 2010 | 07:14 AM
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Since BrunoRibeiro has done all the work, all I have to do is chime in and say I agree with almost everything.

If you are interested in natural beauty, I agree that the Peneda Geres park is a great place to visit -- beautiful little towns in the mountains, Roman mile markers all over the place, and the town of Geres is an old thermal baths town that is sprucing itself up and changing its image to "spa town." Here are some pictures from a trip there:

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.r...JWXia2F6tugUw#


The other top area of natural beauty in my mind (nicer than the Serra da Estrela, which is actually the highest mountain range in Portugal), is, as Goaway suggests, the schist villages in the Lousa area. There are lots of marked driving tours available in tourist offices in the area and it's a beautiful area. More pictures:

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.reynolds/LousaJan09#

My only hesitation with the great recommendations (and I realize this depends exclusively on taste) is whether the boat trip is the best way to see the Douro valley. For me, the most spectacular part of the valley is east of Pinhao, and I don't think the boat trips go that far east. I would highly recommend the train trip, the train hugs the shore and takes you through the remote parts of the valley, all the way to Pocinho, the end of the line. The trip out and back takes several hours, with a short stop at the end in Pocinho where there are two cafes for a drink or snack. Pictures from two trips are here, and the first has some shots of some of the cities Bruno has mentioned. The first is from a trip in June, the second from a trip in September, right before harvest (a great time to visit):

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.r.../TripWithDana#

http://picasaweb.google.com/laurie.r...oValleySept08#

The time of year might make a difference to some of these recommendations, when are you planning to go?

Laurie
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Old Jul 28th, 2010 | 08:51 AM
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Thank you all for your extensive and helpful information. I'll copy it into a 'folder' for future reference. My husband and I have been to Portugal many times, but our friends have not been, so it will be special for them to see any of it. Great hints and suggestions.
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Old Jul 28th, 2010 | 10:00 AM
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Hi,

just to add some info on the boat trips that lreynold1 gave: river boat cruises go all the way from Porto to Barca d'Alva, that stands at the border with Spain. And yes, the Douro Valley between Pinhão and Barca d'Alva is amazing. Usually the cruises do part of the way by boat and the other part by train (example: you go from Porto to Barca d'Alva by boat and return to Porto by train).
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Old Jul 29th, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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Sounds like a great trip, clarasong. I've never been to Portugal, and this sounds lovely. Enjoy!
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Old Jul 31st, 2010 | 09:35 AM
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One last question: We want to stay last two nights in Obidos, and have booked at the Pousada in town. Our friends want to stay at the Castle high on the hill, but we don't as we have been there and it is sort of underwhelming...so they asked "is it worth it to stay in that historic castle' and I answered, not for us, so maybe we could just have dinner there and you can stay there if you want, we will pick you up next day.

Can anyone address this? would they be missing anything wonderful if they passed on the castle overnight?
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Old Jul 31st, 2010 | 10:07 AM
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For accommodations you might try www.karenbrown.com or www.specialplacestostay.com. We have tried them and they are fun and reasonable. Castles, mansions, caves, stables, convents, etc. Depending where it is, $100 is a price I try to never go over.

Please make a report as we go in November. Enjoy. jk
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Old Aug 1st, 2010 | 07:17 AM
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jan47ete: we arrive in Portugal on Nov 1, I believe. wouldn't it be nice to see you there? We have done Karen Brown (used her exclusively the first time we went to Portugal and she kept us straight and safe). The folks we are going with wanted to see the historic castles, etc. what part of Portugal are you visiting>
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Old Aug 1st, 2010 | 08:13 AM
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Clarasong, I don't really understand your question about Obidos, sorry. You've booked the pousada but are having second thoughts? Or are you asking whether we think it's worthwhile for your friends to be in the pousada and you somewhere else? The castle/pousada is really right in the town, so it wouldn't be hard to meet up if you stayed somewhere else. In fact there are several very nice places within or right outside the castle walls and a few minutes' walk from the pousada.

I have stayed in the pousada -- it was in 2005, though. It was a 3-generation Christmas trip and both my parents and my kids wanted to stay there. I wasn't overwhelmed, but it is cool to stay in a castle. I thought the furnishings were a little shabby and we only ate one dinner there that was not as good as the dinners we had in other places in town.

People here consistently rank a couple of the non-pousada options in Obidos very highly, I'm sure you can find them with a search.

So for me, the "would you miss anything wonderful?" question would be answered "no". But for my kids and my parents, it was a definite "yes."

If you and your friends prefer historic pousadas, I think the one right outside Guimaraes is stunning, it's in a convent. You might switch that for Viana do Castelo, which is a comfortable, but 20th century building. The pousada in Porto has just opened, and looks spectacular, you'll have to let us know.

Where are you staying in Lisbon? I think the nearest pousada is in Queluz, about 10 km from northern Lisbon, which might be kind of a hassle for getting in and out of Lisbon.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2010 | 12:35 PM
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Irenold1: thanks for the thoughts. We have been many times, but our friend are visiting Portugal for the first time. They want to stay in a castle...don't ask me why. So guess we will let them and we will stay in town...since we will be there several nights before they arrive (meeting up with them in Lisbon) maybe you could suggest some interesting places to visit in the Lisbon vicinity. I am not a city girl, but love the village life, typical food, and to walk..also beaches, but we have done Sintra and Cascais several times. What a beautiful country you have..

Incidentally, sice we will depart north from Lisbon once we have all assembled, I think we will book at the Radison near airport for the first night together. Here listed are some of the places we all agree we'd like to see. Open to other suggestions.


Bucaco Palace

Pinhou

Guimaraes Pousada Santa Marinha

Viana do Castelo Pousada

Obidos Estalagem do Convento
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Old Aug 2nd, 2010 | 03:44 PM
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Hi, clarasong,
For day trips close to Lisbon (with a car, I'm assuming) you could go to Sesimbra. I had great fish at the harbor where the fishing boats dock (a little outside of towm) on a picnic table, very informal but great fish. It has a nice old town and there are lots of good fish restaurants there, too. Palmela is nearby and coffee in the pousada/castle is always nice.

The serra d'Arrabida is also pretty, and the beach at Portinho d'Arrabida has nice coastal walks and a couple of good fish restaurants.

Going north of Lisbon, I like the coast near Ericeira, and the town of Peniche is interesting (there's a museum dedicated to a reaffirmation of democracy and a repudiation of the dictatorship in the old jail where political prisoners were held). From Peniche you can take a boat out to an island Berlanga, which I've never been able to do but people say it's beautiful.

If you take a day trip or two from Viana do Castelo, I would put Ponte de Lima and Vila Nova de Cerveira high on the list, the first is a beautiful river town and the second, also on the river is much smaller but very pretty. Some love Valenca, also on the river, but I'm always overwhelmed by the tour buses full of Spaniards going to buy bedspreads, towels, curtains, etc. There are millions of shops, and I'm not a shopper. But I did take a good friend there once and patiently walked around as she spent hundreds and hundreds of euros on these things. She assured me that there are some really high quality places interspersed with the junk stores and that the prices are terrific.

I know Bucaco is a top destination. I've stayed there and it was an experience, that's for sure. And there are many nice paths for walking in the forest and up to a nice lookout point. The palace/hotel is one of a kind, kitschy (like the suit of armor with red flashing lights in the eyeballs) and a little "faded." It wouldn't be on the top of my list but others will disagree. Food in the hotel wasn't bad, the dining room is very pleasant. But it's basically a hotel in the middle of a forest.

Just my opinions -- Laurie
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Old Aug 3rd, 2010 | 07:46 AM
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thanks so much for the input...gives us new ideas. We still have a little time to plan. It's tricky, as we have done a lot of the 'usual' stuff in Portugal and looking for new experiences while they are on their first time..and we will share an auto,so gotta be fair, and find something for everybody. I don't mind, myself, just sitting in the town square for a hour or too, watchingg and listening to the people. DH likes 'action" and "lights" all the time. Oh well. I'll write a report when we get home. thanks again.
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Old Aug 6th, 2010 | 11:47 AM
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The pousadas are rather pricey -- unless you want that kind
of stuff. Back in 2008 we found the Portugal was full of
modern, convenient and moderate places. In Obidos I highly
recommend

Estalagem Do Convento.

Try to get a back room -- next to the walled garden.

As suggested before, Coimbra is a great place.

I guess you are not getting 'inside'. For me the best part
of the trip was along the Spanish border, visiting the
fortified villages and a magical night in Marvao -- one
of the very few places that I would visit again.

sj101
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Old Aug 6th, 2010 | 01:26 PM
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sj: we are staying at Estalgem Do Convento!!! glad you like it to. As I mentioned, we are going with some folks who like a more predictable travel experience. I am going to suggest Marvao..thanks.
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Old Aug 8th, 2010 | 07:26 AM
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If you do make it to Marvao, I strongly recommend Hotel
El-Rei Dom Manuel. Not the greatest for views from the room,
but the views are only 10 metres from the room! Just step out!!
(Could never understand why one would want a room with a
view.) I read some bad things about the pousada there before
we went, but spending >$200 for just a night's sleep is crazy
IMHO.

One other thing: the drive up the hill to Marvao is not at
all difficult.

If you really need magic, I suggest a visit to Sortelha, too.
We spent an hour there. Could not believe the soltitude.
The utter silence but for the whistling of the wind and the
twittering of swallows -- and views going forever. You
get the same kind of views in Marvao, but it is much more
touristy than Sortelha.

sj101
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Old Aug 8th, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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This entire discussion makes me want to return to Portugal sometime soon.

Clara, enjoy your trip!
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Old Aug 10th, 2010 | 10:11 AM
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The pousada in Viana is high up in the hills, so hope somebody has a car. We stayed instead at the Relaix & Chateaux hotel in town. It was delightful, and not too pricey. Loved that town, and all of northern Portugal actually.
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Old Aug 10th, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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Thanks. we are booked in Viana at the Pousada..for three nights, I think.
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