Getting High in Switzerland (and a wee bit of Italy)
Jan 3rd, 2023, 01:49 PM
#62
Oct 7 –
Yesterday morning we’d planned our four full days in Grimentz - working from a document I’d put together during my research (which impressed the woman at the tourist office, who asked where I’d gotten it). We’d looked up and noted bus times and connections in an attempt to best maximize our time and utilize our sunny days (yesterday, today and hopefully Sunday – tomorrow clouds and rain expected).
So, in keeping with that plan, we walked the short distance to the Carovella bus stop and took the 8:58 bus into the valley of Vissoie and connected to the bus to St Luc Bella Tolla on the opposite hillside (free with guest card), and then quickly walked uphill about 10-15 minutes to the Tignousa funicular station – wanting to arrive in time for the 10 am funicular, and making it with 15 minutes to spare, before being whisked to the top. The funicular only goes up once an hour during the week, every 30 minutes on weekends (half price with our guest card, so 12 chf return for me, 11 return for Bill).
Our plan was to walk to the historic Hotel Weisshorn built in 1882, situated at 2337 meters in the Val d'Anniviers. The walk was estimated to take 90 minutes to two hours; our goal was fresh air, exercise, views, and the Hotel Weisshorn’s famous blueberry cake. The hotel would be closing on Sunday for the season and we’d missed the trek last year due to the weather and lack of research on our part, so now was our chance.
Tignousa
The hike was beautiful; the changing larch trees stunning; we were surrounded by yellow and red. I’d read that the last 1.5 km of the hike was a steep uphill climb, and they weren’t kidding. It was very much a bergweg; some of the rocks in shaded areas were slick with frost and one section involved a bit of rock scrambling, which was very much outside of my old lady comfort zone. Otherwise, it was an undulating (or as Bill put it “uphill both ways”) well graded path.
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
Changing larch trees
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
But we made it – and we were rewarded with fabulous views, coffee and some very good wild blueberry pie with Chantilly (24 chf). That pie was flying off the shelves; several other hikers were doing the same.
Historic Hotel Weisshorn
No shortage of trails
There it is...the famous wild blueberry pie
Other pie eaters
We returned the way we’d come; the 5.8 mile hike had taken us three hours. We were worried we’d not reach the funicular by 2:05, but we made it with time to spare.
Walking back to Tignousa
Walking back to Tignousa
Walking back to Tignousa
Back in St Luc we sought out the La Fougere restaurant where we had a good lunch last year (and I was stung by a wasp), but alas it was the witching hour; they’d stopped serving lunch for the day. An employee suggested we go to the restaurant next door as they served all day – which is how we ended up at Le Panoramik, noshing on butternut squash soup (9 chf), and Croque Monsieur (14 chf) washed down with a local cider (8 chf), and a beer (7.50 chf). Bill had high hopes for his Croque Monsieur, but was just a slice of ham and cheese on toasted white bread, similar to a Kiwi toastie, accompanied with a small salad, nothing to get excited about (39 chf total). But if you’re looking for Belgian beer, this is the place.
St Luc
St Luc
We then caught the 3:47 bus back to Vissoie and connected with a bus to Grimentz.
After another fight with the self-checkout at the Grimentz Coop - and me vowing to never use it again - we returned to the apartment for drinks and snacks on our balcony while taking in the wonderful views.
To be continued…
Yesterday morning we’d planned our four full days in Grimentz - working from a document I’d put together during my research (which impressed the woman at the tourist office, who asked where I’d gotten it). We’d looked up and noted bus times and connections in an attempt to best maximize our time and utilize our sunny days (yesterday, today and hopefully Sunday – tomorrow clouds and rain expected).
So, in keeping with that plan, we walked the short distance to the Carovella bus stop and took the 8:58 bus into the valley of Vissoie and connected to the bus to St Luc Bella Tolla on the opposite hillside (free with guest card), and then quickly walked uphill about 10-15 minutes to the Tignousa funicular station – wanting to arrive in time for the 10 am funicular, and making it with 15 minutes to spare, before being whisked to the top. The funicular only goes up once an hour during the week, every 30 minutes on weekends (half price with our guest card, so 12 chf return for me, 11 return for Bill).
Our plan was to walk to the historic Hotel Weisshorn built in 1882, situated at 2337 meters in the Val d'Anniviers. The walk was estimated to take 90 minutes to two hours; our goal was fresh air, exercise, views, and the Hotel Weisshorn’s famous blueberry cake. The hotel would be closing on Sunday for the season and we’d missed the trek last year due to the weather and lack of research on our part, so now was our chance.
Tignousa
The hike was beautiful; the changing larch trees stunning; we were surrounded by yellow and red. I’d read that the last 1.5 km of the hike was a steep uphill climb, and they weren’t kidding. It was very much a bergweg; some of the rocks in shaded areas were slick with frost and one section involved a bit of rock scrambling, which was very much outside of my old lady comfort zone. Otherwise, it was an undulating (or as Bill put it “uphill both ways”) well graded path.
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
Changing larch trees
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
Walking from Tignousa to the historic Hotel Weisshorn
But we made it – and we were rewarded with fabulous views, coffee and some very good wild blueberry pie with Chantilly (24 chf). That pie was flying off the shelves; several other hikers were doing the same.
Historic Hotel Weisshorn
No shortage of trails
There it is...the famous wild blueberry pie
Other pie eaters
We returned the way we’d come; the 5.8 mile hike had taken us three hours. We were worried we’d not reach the funicular by 2:05, but we made it with time to spare.
Walking back to Tignousa
Walking back to Tignousa
Walking back to Tignousa
Back in St Luc we sought out the La Fougere restaurant where we had a good lunch last year (and I was stung by a wasp), but alas it was the witching hour; they’d stopped serving lunch for the day. An employee suggested we go to the restaurant next door as they served all day – which is how we ended up at Le Panoramik, noshing on butternut squash soup (9 chf), and Croque Monsieur (14 chf) washed down with a local cider (8 chf), and a beer (7.50 chf). Bill had high hopes for his Croque Monsieur, but was just a slice of ham and cheese on toasted white bread, similar to a Kiwi toastie, accompanied with a small salad, nothing to get excited about (39 chf total). But if you’re looking for Belgian beer, this is the place.
St Luc
St Luc
We then caught the 3:47 bus back to Vissoie and connected with a bus to Grimentz.
After another fight with the self-checkout at the Grimentz Coop - and me vowing to never use it again - we returned to the apartment for drinks and snacks on our balcony while taking in the wonderful views.
To be continued…
Last edited by Melnq8; Jan 3rd, 2023 at 01:59 PM.
Jan 3rd, 2023, 07:22 PM
#63
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I'm late joining your trip report but have been enjoying your narrative very much. Lovely photos with fabulous views and food. Great scenery and the photo of the wine list with the pictures of the flavor notes was truly unique. I always love your reports... so nicely done. You're very adventurous!
Jan 5th, 2023, 08:25 AM
#65
Oct 8 –
With poor weather predicted, we stuck to our plan of taking the bus from Grimentz to Niouc Les St Innocents (free with guest card), where cars lined the narrow road and a few guys were directing traffic.
Grimentz bus stop
Cars lining the road at Niouc Les St Innocents
We weren’t sure what was going on, but we saw groups of people climbing up the hillside from the street below. We followed the crowd that disembarked the bus, surprised that so many people were heading to the same place we were, the Pont Suspendu de Niouc, but soon learning that they were going to what a passerby called a ‘cow fighting contest’. Ah…we’d seen the signs at the bus stop in Grimentz this morning but hadn’t made the connection. Later that day I googled and found this:
Grand Combat des Génissons
About thirty heifers are expected this year and the fights will be lively and animated. The candor and the ardor of the heifers incite them to give themselves without calculation against their adversaries and the competitors who refuse to fight are few.
All the registered heifers come from stables in the Val d'Anniviers, the Sierroise region and the Upper Valais. Most of the breeders are regulars who are delighted each year to spend a convivial day while measuring the fighting values of their youngest animals.
The whole village of Niouc is mobilized to welcome the numerous spectators. Parking spaces are provided near the arena, the postal bus stops, on request, not far from the arena and the most intrepid can even get to the site by taking the old road to Anniviers.
A cow fighting contest sounded fun, but we had other plans, so after consulting with one of the guys directing traffic, we walked in the opposite direction, crossed the street and followed a short steep path below the road.
We were met with several young people burning cardboard in barrels, playing music and getting ready for business; for lack of a better word, it felt…bohemian.
We waited until they opened at 10, paid 5 chf each and walked across the 200 meter long (656 ft), 50 cm wide (19.6 in) Niouc suspension bridge, which spans the Val d’Anniviers and is one of the highest in Europe at 190 meters (623 ft). The bridge was constructed in 1922 to carry water across the valley via pipe, but is now used for bungy jumping. By comparison, AJ Hackett's original bungy jump in Queenstown, NZ - which Bill jumped from a few moons back - is a mere 43 meters (141 ft).
Thanks, but no
Pont Suspendu de Niouc
Pont Suspendu de Niouc
Pont Suspendu de Niouc
Pont Suspendu de Niouc
I’m not usually bothered by heights, but crossing this thing made me feel a bit woozy; the river was waaaay down there….We had it entirely to ourselves, so we took our time exploring. I asked one of the workers what time the bungy jumping started (noon) and were told they expected about 20 jumpers today.
Walking across that sucker was plenty for me, no way in hell would I willingly jump from it, let alone pay 210 francs for the "pleasure", but I’d have liked to watch a willing participant take the plunge.
After getting our fill of the bridge, we walked back up the hill to the bus stop and caught the 10:55 bus to Sierre (not covered by guest card), and connected with a train to Leuk (5.60 chf each from Niouc to Leuk).
We popped into the visitor’s center to get directions to the Bhutanbrücke (Bhutan Bridge), and tips on where to find some lunch. We then walked to the Matheiu Backerei in Susten for a nice alfresco meal, waited on by a cute little waitress who spoke very good English and was running her butt off (and was scolded by her boss for serving Bill’s Weizen Hell in the wrong glass).
Bill unexpectedly chose the Walliser Gallette, which was sort of like a pizza with fruit and was surprisingly good (12.50 chf), washed down with a beer (5 chf). I had a big bowl of tomato soup – which was served cold - not sure if that was intentional or not, but it was good (9 chf) and a glass of Pinot Noir, also served cold but consumed just the same (5 chf).
Walliser Gallette
Matheiu Backerei in Susten
Matheiu Backerei in Susten
After lunch we walked to the Bhutan Bridge, first going uphill on the road and then following what felt like a horse trail; a rocky path that ran alongside a dry riverbed.
The 134 meter long, 80 meter high Bhutan Bridge spans the river Illbach in the Pfyn-Finges forest and links the Upper and Lower Valais. My interest in the bridge was piqued last year after discovering the Illgraben - a massive rock crater, dubbed the Grand Canyon of Valais - during a hike from Chandolin.
Walking to Bhutanbrücke
Bhutanbrücke
Bhutanbrücke
Views from Bhutanbrücke
It was a nice enough two hour, four mile return walk, but the bridge was seriously anticlimactic after the Niouc Bridge. The skies opened as we returned via a different trail that led us through the forest, passing a few hunters with shotguns and a handful of bikers.
Back in Leuk we returned the way we’d come, taking a train to Sierre, and then a bus to Grimentz via Vissoie, me opting to sit in the front seat of the bus, where I got a full view of the harrowing drive from Sierre to Vissoie. I've been on many crazy-curvy-steep bus rides in Switzerland - and was on this very bus just two days ago, but riding shotgun with those sheer drop-offs to my right gave me the serious heebie-jeebies and a new appreciation for the incredibly skilled bus drivers in this land of endless mountains and valleys.
Bus back to Vissoie
Road to Vissoie
We picked up some raclette, pickled onions and gerkins at the Coop to try out the raclette warmer in our apartment. In all our visits to Switzerland we’d never used one, so we figured it was about time. Excellent.
To be continued...
With poor weather predicted, we stuck to our plan of taking the bus from Grimentz to Niouc Les St Innocents (free with guest card), where cars lined the narrow road and a few guys were directing traffic.
Grimentz bus stop
Cars lining the road at Niouc Les St Innocents
We weren’t sure what was going on, but we saw groups of people climbing up the hillside from the street below. We followed the crowd that disembarked the bus, surprised that so many people were heading to the same place we were, the Pont Suspendu de Niouc, but soon learning that they were going to what a passerby called a ‘cow fighting contest’. Ah…we’d seen the signs at the bus stop in Grimentz this morning but hadn’t made the connection. Later that day I googled and found this:
Grand Combat des Génissons
About thirty heifers are expected this year and the fights will be lively and animated. The candor and the ardor of the heifers incite them to give themselves without calculation against their adversaries and the competitors who refuse to fight are few.
All the registered heifers come from stables in the Val d'Anniviers, the Sierroise region and the Upper Valais. Most of the breeders are regulars who are delighted each year to spend a convivial day while measuring the fighting values of their youngest animals.
The whole village of Niouc is mobilized to welcome the numerous spectators. Parking spaces are provided near the arena, the postal bus stops, on request, not far from the arena and the most intrepid can even get to the site by taking the old road to Anniviers.
A cow fighting contest sounded fun, but we had other plans, so after consulting with one of the guys directing traffic, we walked in the opposite direction, crossed the street and followed a short steep path below the road.
We were met with several young people burning cardboard in barrels, playing music and getting ready for business; for lack of a better word, it felt…bohemian.
We waited until they opened at 10, paid 5 chf each and walked across the 200 meter long (656 ft), 50 cm wide (19.6 in) Niouc suspension bridge, which spans the Val d’Anniviers and is one of the highest in Europe at 190 meters (623 ft). The bridge was constructed in 1922 to carry water across the valley via pipe, but is now used for bungy jumping. By comparison, AJ Hackett's original bungy jump in Queenstown, NZ - which Bill jumped from a few moons back - is a mere 43 meters (141 ft).
Thanks, but no
Pont Suspendu de Niouc
Pont Suspendu de Niouc
Pont Suspendu de Niouc
Pont Suspendu de Niouc
I’m not usually bothered by heights, but crossing this thing made me feel a bit woozy; the river was waaaay down there….We had it entirely to ourselves, so we took our time exploring. I asked one of the workers what time the bungy jumping started (noon) and were told they expected about 20 jumpers today.
Walking across that sucker was plenty for me, no way in hell would I willingly jump from it, let alone pay 210 francs for the "pleasure", but I’d have liked to watch a willing participant take the plunge.
After getting our fill of the bridge, we walked back up the hill to the bus stop and caught the 10:55 bus to Sierre (not covered by guest card), and connected with a train to Leuk (5.60 chf each from Niouc to Leuk).
We popped into the visitor’s center to get directions to the Bhutanbrücke (Bhutan Bridge), and tips on where to find some lunch. We then walked to the Matheiu Backerei in Susten for a nice alfresco meal, waited on by a cute little waitress who spoke very good English and was running her butt off (and was scolded by her boss for serving Bill’s Weizen Hell in the wrong glass).
Bill unexpectedly chose the Walliser Gallette, which was sort of like a pizza with fruit and was surprisingly good (12.50 chf), washed down with a beer (5 chf). I had a big bowl of tomato soup – which was served cold - not sure if that was intentional or not, but it was good (9 chf) and a glass of Pinot Noir, also served cold but consumed just the same (5 chf).
Walliser Gallette
Matheiu Backerei in Susten
Matheiu Backerei in Susten
After lunch we walked to the Bhutan Bridge, first going uphill on the road and then following what felt like a horse trail; a rocky path that ran alongside a dry riverbed.
The 134 meter long, 80 meter high Bhutan Bridge spans the river Illbach in the Pfyn-Finges forest and links the Upper and Lower Valais. My interest in the bridge was piqued last year after discovering the Illgraben - a massive rock crater, dubbed the Grand Canyon of Valais - during a hike from Chandolin.
Walking to Bhutanbrücke
Bhutanbrücke
Bhutanbrücke
Views from Bhutanbrücke
It was a nice enough two hour, four mile return walk, but the bridge was seriously anticlimactic after the Niouc Bridge. The skies opened as we returned via a different trail that led us through the forest, passing a few hunters with shotguns and a handful of bikers.
Back in Leuk we returned the way we’d come, taking a train to Sierre, and then a bus to Grimentz via Vissoie, me opting to sit in the front seat of the bus, where I got a full view of the harrowing drive from Sierre to Vissoie. I've been on many crazy-curvy-steep bus rides in Switzerland - and was on this very bus just two days ago, but riding shotgun with those sheer drop-offs to my right gave me the serious heebie-jeebies and a new appreciation for the incredibly skilled bus drivers in this land of endless mountains and valleys.
Bus back to Vissoie
Road to Vissoie
We picked up some raclette, pickled onions and gerkins at the Coop to try out the raclette warmer in our apartment. In all our visits to Switzerland we’d never used one, so we figured it was about time. Excellent.
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Jan 5th, 2023 at 08:34 AM.
Jan 5th, 2023, 09:02 AM
#66
Oct 9 –
Thus far the exchange rate had been in our favor, about 1.01-1.02 dollars per franc.
Since we’d been in the Val d’ Anniviers, we’d started wearing our masks again on public transport; there’d been a lot of coughing on the buses the past few days.
When planning this trip, I’d run across Chateau de Villa, a restaurant and wine bar in Sierre that offered raclette using five A.O.P cheeses (Appellation d'Origine Protégée). We very much wanted to give it a go and had set aside a day to do so.
I’d contacted the restaurant three times to make reservations, using their online reservation form as well as email (in English and French), but I never received a response. We didn’t know if they’d gone out of business or just didn’t want ours, but we weren’t willing to make the effort getting there from Grimentz without a booking, so we finally gave up.
So on to Plan B.
We took the 8:58 bus from Grimentz to Vissoise and connected with a bus to Zinal, getting off at the Plat da la Lee stop. When we’d asked the woman at the visitor’s center in Grimentz where we might find a hike that incorporated a bergrestaurant, she suggested we take the four hour return hike up to Cabine du Petit Mountet situated at 2,142 meters, as they were open today, but would be closing for the season soon. We briefly considered it, but I wasn’t sure if I was up for a hike with a 467 meter (1,531 ft) elevation gain, so we decided to hike part of it instead.
Bus from Grimentz to Vissoie
Bus from Grimentz to Vissoie
Zinal trail map
The day was gloomy, rain was expected. The flat and level trail began alongside the La Navisence River, and then slowly began to climb, the path wide, but steep. We walked just a bit past Vichiesso, gaining some 1,000 ft in elevation.
La Navisence River
Walking to Vichiesso
Autumn color
Walking to Vichiesso
Walking to Vichiesso
Walking to Vichiesso
Walking to Vichiesso
Walking to Vichiesso
There were lots of people on the trail on this gloomy Sunday, perhaps wanting to take advantage before the Cabine du Petit Mountet closed for the season.
https://www.petitmountet.ch/
We retraced our steps down to Zinal, where we had a very long alfresco lunch at Restaurant La Ferme (The Bistro), hiding from the rain under an umbrella. We both opted for the raclette enfant, four portions each of raclette, served one at a time. A lovely way to while away a wet afternoon, and very tasty, but rather labor intensive for the poor waiter. As usual, the raclette included potatoes, onions and gerkins, and in our case was washed down with Sangria.
Returning to Zinal
Zinal
Raclette
Restaurant La Ferme (The Bistro)
Having lots of time to kill before the next bus (two hours between buses), we stayed on for another beverage, a Grimbergen Blanche for Bill and Aperol Spritz for me (74.50 chf total).
Restaurant La Ferme (The Bistro)
All that and we still had to stand around a bit waiting for the bus – it felt much colder than October. The 3:38 bus finally arrived, returning us to Vissoie where we connected to a bus to Grimentz. Bill said this was his favorite day in the area; we’d only walked a bit over five miles, but I was wiped out.
To be continued…
Thus far the exchange rate had been in our favor, about 1.01-1.02 dollars per franc.
Since we’d been in the Val d’ Anniviers, we’d started wearing our masks again on public transport; there’d been a lot of coughing on the buses the past few days.
When planning this trip, I’d run across Chateau de Villa, a restaurant and wine bar in Sierre that offered raclette using five A.O.P cheeses (Appellation d'Origine Protégée). We very much wanted to give it a go and had set aside a day to do so.
I’d contacted the restaurant three times to make reservations, using their online reservation form as well as email (in English and French), but I never received a response. We didn’t know if they’d gone out of business or just didn’t want ours, but we weren’t willing to make the effort getting there from Grimentz without a booking, so we finally gave up.
So on to Plan B.
We took the 8:58 bus from Grimentz to Vissoise and connected with a bus to Zinal, getting off at the Plat da la Lee stop. When we’d asked the woman at the visitor’s center in Grimentz where we might find a hike that incorporated a bergrestaurant, she suggested we take the four hour return hike up to Cabine du Petit Mountet situated at 2,142 meters, as they were open today, but would be closing for the season soon. We briefly considered it, but I wasn’t sure if I was up for a hike with a 467 meter (1,531 ft) elevation gain, so we decided to hike part of it instead.
Bus from Grimentz to Vissoie
Bus from Grimentz to Vissoie
Zinal trail map
The day was gloomy, rain was expected. The flat and level trail began alongside the La Navisence River, and then slowly began to climb, the path wide, but steep. We walked just a bit past Vichiesso, gaining some 1,000 ft in elevation.
La Navisence River
Walking to Vichiesso
Autumn color
Walking to Vichiesso
Walking to Vichiesso
Walking to Vichiesso
Walking to Vichiesso
Walking to Vichiesso
There were lots of people on the trail on this gloomy Sunday, perhaps wanting to take advantage before the Cabine du Petit Mountet closed for the season.
https://www.petitmountet.ch/
We retraced our steps down to Zinal, where we had a very long alfresco lunch at Restaurant La Ferme (The Bistro), hiding from the rain under an umbrella. We both opted for the raclette enfant, four portions each of raclette, served one at a time. A lovely way to while away a wet afternoon, and very tasty, but rather labor intensive for the poor waiter. As usual, the raclette included potatoes, onions and gerkins, and in our case was washed down with Sangria.
Returning to Zinal
Zinal
Raclette
Restaurant La Ferme (The Bistro)
Having lots of time to kill before the next bus (two hours between buses), we stayed on for another beverage, a Grimbergen Blanche for Bill and Aperol Spritz for me (74.50 chf total).
Restaurant La Ferme (The Bistro)
All that and we still had to stand around a bit waiting for the bus – it felt much colder than October. The 3:38 bus finally arrived, returning us to Vissoie where we connected to a bus to Grimentz. Bill said this was his favorite day in the area; we’d only walked a bit over five miles, but I was wiped out.
To be continued…
Jan 5th, 2023, 09:17 AM
#67
Oct 10 –
We said au revoir to Grimentz, taking the 10:18 bus from Grimentz to Vissoie, where the bus sat for a few minutes before continuing on to Sierre.
View from bus Vissoie to Sierre
In Sierre we crossed over to the train station and caught a train towards Brig, getting off in Visp, where we had a four minute connection with a train to Bern. In Bern we switched to a train to Luzern; once in Luzern we switched to a train to Bellinzona. It was a long day, one bus, four trains and 5.5 hours of travel with some tight connections, which always stresses me out when dealing with luggage, despite knowing what I know about Swiss transport.
Before heading out, we’d checked our route, noticing that a few legs were high occupancy; especially from Luzern to Bellinzona, which was indeed packed. We felt lucky to find a place for our luggage and were glad we boarded in Luzern, as the train got extremely busy when it stopped in Arth-Goldau, a place we’d never heard of.
Busy train
Our route took us through the 15 km long Gotthard Tunnel – enveloping us in darkness for 20 minutes. When we arrived the Bellinzona train station was very busy, lots of teenage boys running about; the town felt much busier than I remembered from last year; and it was unexpectedly warm.
We were now back in Italian speaking Switzerland, a stone's throw from Italy, and 18 minutes from Sufers, where we spent five nights two weeks ago. Logistically awkward, as promised.
We located our Air BNB, a short walk from the bahnhof, centrally located in the heart of downtown, despite Google leading us to the wrong building, but quickly sorted.
This apartment would turn out to be the least favorite of the trip ($820.62 for five nights). Spacious, but more style than substance; poorly furnished and not particularly well thought out from a visitor’s perspective. We found the apartment awkward with a shortage of places to sit, places to put things, it was hard to relax. It was also uncomfortably warm, very noisy and had a unique laundry situation.
Access to laundry room
After getting settled we went to the Coop for provisions, and then had dinner at Croce Federale, a discovery from last year and just as good as we remembered. Bill chose the pizza Calabrese (spicy salami), I went for the pizza buffalo, instantly regretting not getting the Calabrese which was excellent (52 chf with one beer and one glass of Ticino white merlot).
Croce Federale
And that champers list…wow. A bit rich for my blood.
Croce Federale champers list
Back at the apartment, the church bells went crazy at 6 pm, ringing 18 times.
To be continued...
We said au revoir to Grimentz, taking the 10:18 bus from Grimentz to Vissoie, where the bus sat for a few minutes before continuing on to Sierre.
View from bus Vissoie to Sierre
In Sierre we crossed over to the train station and caught a train towards Brig, getting off in Visp, where we had a four minute connection with a train to Bern. In Bern we switched to a train to Luzern; once in Luzern we switched to a train to Bellinzona. It was a long day, one bus, four trains and 5.5 hours of travel with some tight connections, which always stresses me out when dealing with luggage, despite knowing what I know about Swiss transport.
Before heading out, we’d checked our route, noticing that a few legs were high occupancy; especially from Luzern to Bellinzona, which was indeed packed. We felt lucky to find a place for our luggage and were glad we boarded in Luzern, as the train got extremely busy when it stopped in Arth-Goldau, a place we’d never heard of.
Busy train
Our route took us through the 15 km long Gotthard Tunnel – enveloping us in darkness for 20 minutes. When we arrived the Bellinzona train station was very busy, lots of teenage boys running about; the town felt much busier than I remembered from last year; and it was unexpectedly warm.
We were now back in Italian speaking Switzerland, a stone's throw from Italy, and 18 minutes from Sufers, where we spent five nights two weeks ago. Logistically awkward, as promised.
We located our Air BNB, a short walk from the bahnhof, centrally located in the heart of downtown, despite Google leading us to the wrong building, but quickly sorted.
This apartment would turn out to be the least favorite of the trip ($820.62 for five nights). Spacious, but more style than substance; poorly furnished and not particularly well thought out from a visitor’s perspective. We found the apartment awkward with a shortage of places to sit, places to put things, it was hard to relax. It was also uncomfortably warm, very noisy and had a unique laundry situation.
Access to laundry room
After getting settled we went to the Coop for provisions, and then had dinner at Croce Federale, a discovery from last year and just as good as we remembered. Bill chose the pizza Calabrese (spicy salami), I went for the pizza buffalo, instantly regretting not getting the Calabrese which was excellent (52 chf with one beer and one glass of Ticino white merlot).
Croce Federale
And that champers list…wow. A bit rich for my blood.
Croce Federale champers list
Back at the apartment, the church bells went crazy at 6 pm, ringing 18 times.
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Jan 5th, 2023 at 09:22 AM.
Jan 5th, 2023, 01:06 PM
#70
Oct 11 -
We’d discovered the World Heritage site of Bellinzona last year while staying in Locarno; I was immediately taken with its pretty town center, which felt much more sedate and appealing than nearby Locarno. Weird, because Bellinzona has a population of 43,220, whereas Locarno has a population of about 16,000.
We’re early birds, and good thing…the city outside our windows came to life well before dawn. One would think a pedestrian street would be quiet, but no...vehicles enter to make deliveries and provide services, and today none-too-quiet trash collectors were doing their thing directly below our windows.
Our first stop was the visitor’s center, where we discovered that the majority of cable cars had closed for the season just days prior. Unfortunately, I’d spent so much time working out the logistics elsewhere that I’d failed to take a good long look at Ticino - assuming - but not verifying - that most cable cars would be open through Oct 23 as in other areas of Switzerland. Oops.
It seemed that we were limited to one cable car possibility - Malvaglia Valley – which was only open 10-12 and 4-6 on weekdays (longer on weekends, but we’d be gone by then).
We discussed going to Verzasca Dam and spent some time working out transport details, but finally decided to spend this beautiful day hanging out in Bellinzona instead.
We walked around town for a while, visited the church, and then sought out lunch, returning to Croce Federale, which, as luck would have it, was offering the same menu del giorno as the day we discovered it last year – risotto zucca (risotto with pumpkin and cheese), which we fondly remembered as one of our favorite meals of our 2021 trip (18 chf each and worth every franc and calorie). Bill couldn’t stop oohing and ahhing – lovely indeed (60 chf with Ticino white merlot).
Church ceiling
Church
Wandering Bellinzona
Wandering Bellinzona
Wandering Bellinzona
Castle as seen from town
Risotto zucca, Croce Federale
An Italian lunch calls for an Italian dessert; and to me that means gelato, so I popped into a nearby shop for a cup of limone, Nutella and coffee.
We then made the steep trek up to Castello di Montebello and Castello di Sasso Corbaro, two of the three castles that make up the Fortress of Bellinzona. For those inclined there’s a tourist “train” that takes people to the top, but having just consumed a bazillion calories, we figured we’d better hoof it instead.
Castello di Montebello lies below Castello di Sasso Corbaro and is therefore reached first. Here we explored the drawbridges, walked along the castle walls and took in the views.
Castel Grande as seen from walk to Castello di Montebello
Castello di Montebello
Castel Grande as seen from Castello di Montebello
Castello di Montebello
Castello di Montebello foreground (Castel Grande in background)
Views from Castello di Montebello
Castello di Montebello
Castello di Montebello
We then continued our climb to Castello di Sasso Corbaro, perched 230 meters above Bellinzona, where we walked the grounds and took in the even better views…particularly enjoying those of Castello di Montebello below.
Castello di Montebello as seen from walk to Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Walk to Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Views from Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Exhibit, Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Tourist train
The trek up and back was pretty, and led us through vineyards and chestnut groves; we could hear the chestnuts dropping from the trees as we passed; the lizards were prolific.
Walk back down to Bellinzona
Chestnuts
Walking back down to Bellinzona
Castello di Montebello as seen walking down from Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Back in town we called in for alfresco drinks at Cervo Bar (beer, Aperol spritz, 15 chf).
Cervo Bar
Afterwards we picked up sashimi and a slice of pizza from Migros and then returned to the apartment, where we found a bag containing our washed and folded clothes neatly wrapped in a towel waiting for us on the balcony. The apartment wasn’t doing the trick, but we couldn’t complain about the owner’s attempt to sort things out.
It’d been a beautiful day - 60 F - we’d logged about five miles and consumed about 10,000 calories.
To be continued...
We’d discovered the World Heritage site of Bellinzona last year while staying in Locarno; I was immediately taken with its pretty town center, which felt much more sedate and appealing than nearby Locarno. Weird, because Bellinzona has a population of 43,220, whereas Locarno has a population of about 16,000.
We’re early birds, and good thing…the city outside our windows came to life well before dawn. One would think a pedestrian street would be quiet, but no...vehicles enter to make deliveries and provide services, and today none-too-quiet trash collectors were doing their thing directly below our windows.
Our first stop was the visitor’s center, where we discovered that the majority of cable cars had closed for the season just days prior. Unfortunately, I’d spent so much time working out the logistics elsewhere that I’d failed to take a good long look at Ticino - assuming - but not verifying - that most cable cars would be open through Oct 23 as in other areas of Switzerland. Oops.
It seemed that we were limited to one cable car possibility - Malvaglia Valley – which was only open 10-12 and 4-6 on weekdays (longer on weekends, but we’d be gone by then).
We discussed going to Verzasca Dam and spent some time working out transport details, but finally decided to spend this beautiful day hanging out in Bellinzona instead.
We walked around town for a while, visited the church, and then sought out lunch, returning to Croce Federale, which, as luck would have it, was offering the same menu del giorno as the day we discovered it last year – risotto zucca (risotto with pumpkin and cheese), which we fondly remembered as one of our favorite meals of our 2021 trip (18 chf each and worth every franc and calorie). Bill couldn’t stop oohing and ahhing – lovely indeed (60 chf with Ticino white merlot).
Church ceiling
Church
Wandering Bellinzona
Wandering Bellinzona
Wandering Bellinzona
Castle as seen from town
Risotto zucca, Croce Federale
An Italian lunch calls for an Italian dessert; and to me that means gelato, so I popped into a nearby shop for a cup of limone, Nutella and coffee.
We then made the steep trek up to Castello di Montebello and Castello di Sasso Corbaro, two of the three castles that make up the Fortress of Bellinzona. For those inclined there’s a tourist “train” that takes people to the top, but having just consumed a bazillion calories, we figured we’d better hoof it instead.
Castello di Montebello lies below Castello di Sasso Corbaro and is therefore reached first. Here we explored the drawbridges, walked along the castle walls and took in the views.
Castel Grande as seen from walk to Castello di Montebello
Castello di Montebello
Castel Grande as seen from Castello di Montebello
Castello di Montebello
Castello di Montebello foreground (Castel Grande in background)
Views from Castello di Montebello
Castello di Montebello
Castello di Montebello
We then continued our climb to Castello di Sasso Corbaro, perched 230 meters above Bellinzona, where we walked the grounds and took in the even better views…particularly enjoying those of Castello di Montebello below.
Castello di Montebello as seen from walk to Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Walk to Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Views from Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Exhibit, Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Tourist train
The trek up and back was pretty, and led us through vineyards and chestnut groves; we could hear the chestnuts dropping from the trees as we passed; the lizards were prolific.
Walk back down to Bellinzona
Chestnuts
Walking back down to Bellinzona
Castello di Montebello as seen walking down from Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Back in town we called in for alfresco drinks at Cervo Bar (beer, Aperol spritz, 15 chf).
Cervo Bar
Afterwards we picked up sashimi and a slice of pizza from Migros and then returned to the apartment, where we found a bag containing our washed and folded clothes neatly wrapped in a towel waiting for us on the balcony. The apartment wasn’t doing the trick, but we couldn’t complain about the owner’s attempt to sort things out.
It’d been a beautiful day - 60 F - we’d logged about five miles and consumed about 10,000 calories.
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Jan 5th, 2023 at 01:13 PM.
Jan 5th, 2023, 01:41 PM
#71
Oct 12 -
Evidently today was market day in Bellinzona, which we discovered the minute we woke to a cacophony of noise on the street below the apartment. It was still dark outside, but a peek out the window revealed vendors setting up tables, umbrellas and unloading goods from vehicles.
Bellinzona market
The apartment has shutters which help with the noise somewhat, but it’d been so warm and stuffy that we’d left the windows open overnight. No way, no how would I want to stay in this apartment in the summer - no air con, and very little ventilation.
When planning this trip someone on TA suggested we visit the Wednesday market in nearby Luino, Italy, said to be one of the best in Europe with lots of food stalls selling Italian meats and cheeses as well as ‘the finest local crafts’. The market dates back to 1535. We decided to give it a go.
We were unable to find any helpful info on the Arcobaleno website (transport system that covers Ticino) regarding daily train tickets, so we walked to the train station to ask for help. Here, three SBB employees seemed as confused as we were; hemming and hawing and providing incomplete info. We thanked them, and then sat down to figure it out ourselves using the SBB app, finally buying Arcobaleno tickets to Luino for 8.30 chf each. We wanted to leave the possibility of a side trip to Locarno open, so we didn’t buy return tickets.
We took a train from Bellinzona to Lugano (much of it through tunnels) where we changed to the FLP (Ferrovia Lugano–Ponte Tresa, a local railway line that links Lugano with Ponte Tresa), which felt more like a tram than a train.
Once in Ponte Tresa, we switched to the very busy #429 bus, which took us to Luino, Italy, where we quickly located the market - first walking through a side alley near the station, which unbeknownst to us, was the calm before the storm.
Luino market near train station
Luino market
Luino market
Luino market
Luino market
But soon,we found ourselves in a narrow alleyway lined with clothing vendors on either side, and crammed with people in the middle.
Clothing, shoes, belts, scarves (the ones I managed to look at were made in China!) lined the skinny alleyway, which was so claustrophobic and suffocating that we could barely move - I have no idea how people actually managed to shop. This was torture; we had to get out. We slowly worked our way through the throng (trying not to think about COVID) and finally broke free.
We never did find any food stalls selling Italian meats and cheeses, which was the reason we went in the first place; although we could have easily missed them. After the mob scene we’d just escaped from, we were afraid to go back and look.
Quite by accident we stumbled upon a restaurant on my short list - Trattoria Pizzeria Mazoni - so we popped in for lunch. It too was heaving. Our waitress sent her daughter to help us the minute she heard our non-existent Italian.
Bill ordered an encore of pumpkin risotto, this version with hazelnuts. I felt rushed and mistakenly ordered a marinara pizza instead of Margarita – and got exactly what I’d ordered - crust with red sauce - ugh, stupid mistake. The risotto wasn’t as good as yesterday, although the serving was huge. The pizza, well, what can I say (€38 euro with €4 coperto and beverages).
Pumpkin risotto, Trattoria Pizzeria Mazoni after Bill covered it with pepper
Afterwards we wandered down to Lake Maggiore, took in the hazy views and explored the waterfront, stopping for an Aperol Spritz at a waterside café, €5 each, a bargain after Switzerland.
Lake Maggiore
Luino waterfront
Lake Maggiore
We wandered some more, looking for - and finding - a gelato shop, but the line was overwhelming, so we took a pass - people were everywhere. Neither of us was enamored with Luino, although I’m sure it would feel completely different on a non-market day.
Wandering Luino
Wandering Luino
Wandering Luino
Wandering Luino
We’d gotten turned around and had to ask directions back to the train/bus station, where I went looking for a loo. The station was a mess - dirty, covered in graffiti and there seemed to be quite a few inebriated people milling about. The difference between Switzerland and Italy always catches me off guard - so incredibly different, and in the case of Luino…not in a good way.
Our return bus was very busy, and followed a different and much shorter route (8.30 chf each). It also left 10 minutes early, making us wonder if an extra bus had been added due to the market. We switched trains in Lugano again, also very busy.
Lugano as seen from the train station
In retrospect, we should have just visited the market at our doorstep in Bellinzona - which was pristine by early evening after the street cleaners had gone through.
We picked up salads at the Coop, and I went looking for gelato, but the shop near our apartment was closed.
To be continued...
Evidently today was market day in Bellinzona, which we discovered the minute we woke to a cacophony of noise on the street below the apartment. It was still dark outside, but a peek out the window revealed vendors setting up tables, umbrellas and unloading goods from vehicles.
Bellinzona market
The apartment has shutters which help with the noise somewhat, but it’d been so warm and stuffy that we’d left the windows open overnight. No way, no how would I want to stay in this apartment in the summer - no air con, and very little ventilation.
When planning this trip someone on TA suggested we visit the Wednesday market in nearby Luino, Italy, said to be one of the best in Europe with lots of food stalls selling Italian meats and cheeses as well as ‘the finest local crafts’. The market dates back to 1535. We decided to give it a go.
We were unable to find any helpful info on the Arcobaleno website (transport system that covers Ticino) regarding daily train tickets, so we walked to the train station to ask for help. Here, three SBB employees seemed as confused as we were; hemming and hawing and providing incomplete info. We thanked them, and then sat down to figure it out ourselves using the SBB app, finally buying Arcobaleno tickets to Luino for 8.30 chf each. We wanted to leave the possibility of a side trip to Locarno open, so we didn’t buy return tickets.
We took a train from Bellinzona to Lugano (much of it through tunnels) where we changed to the FLP (Ferrovia Lugano–Ponte Tresa, a local railway line that links Lugano with Ponte Tresa), which felt more like a tram than a train.
Once in Ponte Tresa, we switched to the very busy #429 bus, which took us to Luino, Italy, where we quickly located the market - first walking through a side alley near the station, which unbeknownst to us, was the calm before the storm.
Luino market near train station
Luino market
Luino market
Luino market
Luino market
But soon,we found ourselves in a narrow alleyway lined with clothing vendors on either side, and crammed with people in the middle.
Clothing, shoes, belts, scarves (the ones I managed to look at were made in China!) lined the skinny alleyway, which was so claustrophobic and suffocating that we could barely move - I have no idea how people actually managed to shop. This was torture; we had to get out. We slowly worked our way through the throng (trying not to think about COVID) and finally broke free.
We never did find any food stalls selling Italian meats and cheeses, which was the reason we went in the first place; although we could have easily missed them. After the mob scene we’d just escaped from, we were afraid to go back and look.
Quite by accident we stumbled upon a restaurant on my short list - Trattoria Pizzeria Mazoni - so we popped in for lunch. It too was heaving. Our waitress sent her daughter to help us the minute she heard our non-existent Italian.
Bill ordered an encore of pumpkin risotto, this version with hazelnuts. I felt rushed and mistakenly ordered a marinara pizza instead of Margarita – and got exactly what I’d ordered - crust with red sauce - ugh, stupid mistake. The risotto wasn’t as good as yesterday, although the serving was huge. The pizza, well, what can I say (€38 euro with €4 coperto and beverages).
Pumpkin risotto, Trattoria Pizzeria Mazoni after Bill covered it with pepper
Afterwards we wandered down to Lake Maggiore, took in the hazy views and explored the waterfront, stopping for an Aperol Spritz at a waterside café, €5 each, a bargain after Switzerland.
Lake Maggiore
Luino waterfront
Lake Maggiore
We wandered some more, looking for - and finding - a gelato shop, but the line was overwhelming, so we took a pass - people were everywhere. Neither of us was enamored with Luino, although I’m sure it would feel completely different on a non-market day.
Wandering Luino
Wandering Luino
Wandering Luino
Wandering Luino
We’d gotten turned around and had to ask directions back to the train/bus station, where I went looking for a loo. The station was a mess - dirty, covered in graffiti and there seemed to be quite a few inebriated people milling about. The difference between Switzerland and Italy always catches me off guard - so incredibly different, and in the case of Luino…not in a good way.
Our return bus was very busy, and followed a different and much shorter route (8.30 chf each). It also left 10 minutes early, making us wonder if an extra bus had been added due to the market. We switched trains in Lugano again, also very busy.
Lugano as seen from the train station
In retrospect, we should have just visited the market at our doorstep in Bellinzona - which was pristine by early evening after the street cleaners had gone through.
We picked up salads at the Coop, and I went looking for gelato, but the shop near our apartment was closed.
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Jan 5th, 2023 at 01:44 PM.
Jan 6th, 2023, 05:59 AM
#72
Oct 13 –
We bought the Arcobaleno day pass for seven zones using the SBB app (16.60 chf each), and then took a train to Biasca, where we connected to the #131 bus to the Motto Ludiano stop in the Blenio Valley.
Bellinzona train station
From there, we walked about 10 minutes back to the Malvaglia Valley cable car, which was right next to the Filovia bus stop, which we’d passed on the bus; the woman in the visitor’s center had steered us to the wrong stop.
We’d been told that the cable car only operates from 10-12 and 4-6 on weekdays this time of year (longer on weekends). However, the website states that between October and April it opens every day on request, but not knowing exactly what that entailed, we were content to work within the existing timetable.
We'd knew that the hiking trails at the top were long and/or difficult, and that we’d either have to commit to a very long, and potentially out-of-our-comfort-zone hike, or just take the cable car to the top, spend what time we could and return on the 12 pm cable car; we opted for the latter (no surprises there).
We paid 16 chf each return (after 20% guest card discount) and were whisked some 1,000 meters to the top, which took about eight minutes. The cable car only has two four person cars – they’re a bit rickety; there was a lot of rumbling as we rolled over the support towers.
Malvaglia Valley cable car
Once at the top (Dagro) I popped into Sass Malt Ristoro. The restaurant was empty, there were a few workers setting up for lunch; I asked to use the WC and was told where it was. As I exited the restaurant I was chased down – presumably by the owner – and asked to pay 1 chf for having used the loo…which I’d have happily done from the get go had I been told as much. The way it was handled made me feel like a criminal. I paid the 1 chf and told the man we planned to return for drinks later and was given a receipt to apply to that purchase, which seemed fair enough.
Sass Malt Ristoro
We spent about 40 minutes walking up a trail to take in the cloudy views, then returned to the restaurant for a drink – us the only customers and no other people in sight. We’d have liked to stay on for lunch, but the cable car schedule made that impossible.
Views from the trail
Wandering above Drago
Wandering above Dagro
Wandering above Dagro
Wandering above Dagro
Just before 12 we took the cable car back down (having to push a button to let the operator at the bottom know we were there). The descent was steep, causing our ears to pop. About a minute after arriving at the bottom, the cable car operator got in a vehicle and left, making us glad we were on time.
We then caught a bus to Acquarossa-Comprovasco where we wandered around looking for lunch. The first place we came upon didn’t appeal; it appeared to be some sort of snack bar with a group of people smoking and drinking on the terrace.
We followed a sign for Ristorante Rubino, which led us down a road into an unpromising industrial area. Inside the restaurant there were a few men having drinks at bar inside, but no other customers. We decided to take a punt and give it go.
The waitress didn’t speak any English, we no Italian, but we managed. Bill ordered the menu del giorno, not knowing for sure what he might be getting despite my efforts to translate it on my phone. He’s more willing than I am to take a chance on a mystery menu because as a carnivore, set lunch menus are often his best chance of getting meat at a reasonable price in Switzerland.
He was happily surprised with his salad, pasta with red cream sauce, and secondo (or is it secondi?) of pork shank with potatoes – all for the bargain price of 14 chf and very good. The man was chuffed.
I had pasta with dried cherry tomato sauce, also very good, but less of a bargain at 19 chf (44.50 chf with one beer and a glass of red).
Ristorante Rubino, Acquarossa-Comprovasco
Ristorante Rubino, Acquarossa-Comprovasco
Ristorante Rubino, Acquarossa-Comprovasco
After lunch we set out to walk to the next town of Prugiasco via the Sentiero Storico 2 trail, now gloomy and spitting rain.
Sentiero Storico 2 trail
Sentiero Storico 2 trail
Sentiero Storico 2 trail
Sentiero Storico 2 trail
We walked for a bit, but lost interest, so we backtracked to Acquarossa-Comprovasco and waited for bus 131 back to Biasca. I was amused to see a vending machine that sold farm fresh products.
Vending machine selling farm products
Vending machine selling farm products
Vending machine selling farm products
Bus stop
Back in Biasca, we took a train to Bellinzona and connected to a train to Locarno. We noticed a waterfall, later discovering it’s the Santa Petronilla waterfall, which is situated high above Biasca and the largest waterfall in Ticino.
https://www.ticino.ch/en/commons/det...ll/130542.html
We’d spent five nights in Locarno last year, but were so busy with other activities that we’d never made it down to the lake; it was time to rectify that.
We walked along the lake for a while, and then wandered through town trying to find the Lidl we’d visited last year (still looking for those lovely liqueur filled chocolate bars), but were unsuccessful. My phone GPS had us walking in circles.
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Eventually we gave up. Locarno was just as we’d left it, congested and busy.
We caught a train back to Bellinzona – my interest piqued in the large Stella Chocolat building in Giubiasco we could see from the train.
I later googled Stella, and discovered that they offer factory tours, but one had to book three weeks in advance. How did this chocoholic miss that? It was RIGHT there. ARGH. I was kicking myself for this oversight.
Evidently Stella is the premium Swiss manufacturer for private label chocolates. There’s a shop in the Bellinzona train station, which I made of point of visiting - stocking up on Movenpick chocolate bars to take home as gifts for my fellow chocoholics.
Before returning to the apartment we picked up dinner at the Coop. We’d been out for nine hours and logged six miles without really doing anything.
To be continued…
We bought the Arcobaleno day pass for seven zones using the SBB app (16.60 chf each), and then took a train to Biasca, where we connected to the #131 bus to the Motto Ludiano stop in the Blenio Valley.
Bellinzona train station
From there, we walked about 10 minutes back to the Malvaglia Valley cable car, which was right next to the Filovia bus stop, which we’d passed on the bus; the woman in the visitor’s center had steered us to the wrong stop.
We’d been told that the cable car only operates from 10-12 and 4-6 on weekdays this time of year (longer on weekends). However, the website states that between October and April it opens every day on request, but not knowing exactly what that entailed, we were content to work within the existing timetable.
We'd knew that the hiking trails at the top were long and/or difficult, and that we’d either have to commit to a very long, and potentially out-of-our-comfort-zone hike, or just take the cable car to the top, spend what time we could and return on the 12 pm cable car; we opted for the latter (no surprises there).
We paid 16 chf each return (after 20% guest card discount) and were whisked some 1,000 meters to the top, which took about eight minutes. The cable car only has two four person cars – they’re a bit rickety; there was a lot of rumbling as we rolled over the support towers.
Malvaglia Valley cable car
Once at the top (Dagro) I popped into Sass Malt Ristoro. The restaurant was empty, there were a few workers setting up for lunch; I asked to use the WC and was told where it was. As I exited the restaurant I was chased down – presumably by the owner – and asked to pay 1 chf for having used the loo…which I’d have happily done from the get go had I been told as much. The way it was handled made me feel like a criminal. I paid the 1 chf and told the man we planned to return for drinks later and was given a receipt to apply to that purchase, which seemed fair enough.
Sass Malt Ristoro
We spent about 40 minutes walking up a trail to take in the cloudy views, then returned to the restaurant for a drink – us the only customers and no other people in sight. We’d have liked to stay on for lunch, but the cable car schedule made that impossible.
Views from the trail
Wandering above Drago
Wandering above Dagro
Wandering above Dagro
Wandering above Dagro
Just before 12 we took the cable car back down (having to push a button to let the operator at the bottom know we were there). The descent was steep, causing our ears to pop. About a minute after arriving at the bottom, the cable car operator got in a vehicle and left, making us glad we were on time.
We then caught a bus to Acquarossa-Comprovasco where we wandered around looking for lunch. The first place we came upon didn’t appeal; it appeared to be some sort of snack bar with a group of people smoking and drinking on the terrace.
We followed a sign for Ristorante Rubino, which led us down a road into an unpromising industrial area. Inside the restaurant there were a few men having drinks at bar inside, but no other customers. We decided to take a punt and give it go.
The waitress didn’t speak any English, we no Italian, but we managed. Bill ordered the menu del giorno, not knowing for sure what he might be getting despite my efforts to translate it on my phone. He’s more willing than I am to take a chance on a mystery menu because as a carnivore, set lunch menus are often his best chance of getting meat at a reasonable price in Switzerland.
He was happily surprised with his salad, pasta with red cream sauce, and secondo (or is it secondi?) of pork shank with potatoes – all for the bargain price of 14 chf and very good. The man was chuffed.
I had pasta with dried cherry tomato sauce, also very good, but less of a bargain at 19 chf (44.50 chf with one beer and a glass of red).
Ristorante Rubino, Acquarossa-Comprovasco
Ristorante Rubino, Acquarossa-Comprovasco
Ristorante Rubino, Acquarossa-Comprovasco
After lunch we set out to walk to the next town of Prugiasco via the Sentiero Storico 2 trail, now gloomy and spitting rain.
Sentiero Storico 2 trail
Sentiero Storico 2 trail
Sentiero Storico 2 trail
Sentiero Storico 2 trail
We walked for a bit, but lost interest, so we backtracked to Acquarossa-Comprovasco and waited for bus 131 back to Biasca. I was amused to see a vending machine that sold farm fresh products.
Vending machine selling farm products
Vending machine selling farm products
Vending machine selling farm products
Bus stop
Back in Biasca, we took a train to Bellinzona and connected to a train to Locarno. We noticed a waterfall, later discovering it’s the Santa Petronilla waterfall, which is situated high above Biasca and the largest waterfall in Ticino.
https://www.ticino.ch/en/commons/det...ll/130542.html
We’d spent five nights in Locarno last year, but were so busy with other activities that we’d never made it down to the lake; it was time to rectify that.
We walked along the lake for a while, and then wandered through town trying to find the Lidl we’d visited last year (still looking for those lovely liqueur filled chocolate bars), but were unsuccessful. My phone GPS had us walking in circles.
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Locarno
Eventually we gave up. Locarno was just as we’d left it, congested and busy.
We caught a train back to Bellinzona – my interest piqued in the large Stella Chocolat building in Giubiasco we could see from the train.
I later googled Stella, and discovered that they offer factory tours, but one had to book three weeks in advance. How did this chocoholic miss that? It was RIGHT there. ARGH. I was kicking myself for this oversight.
Evidently Stella is the premium Swiss manufacturer for private label chocolates. There’s a shop in the Bellinzona train station, which I made of point of visiting - stocking up on Movenpick chocolate bars to take home as gifts for my fellow chocoholics.
Before returning to the apartment we picked up dinner at the Coop. We’d been out for nine hours and logged six miles without really doing anything.
To be continued…
Last edited by Melnq8; Jan 6th, 2023 at 06:04 AM.
Jan 6th, 2023, 02:44 PM
#73
Oct 14 -
The SBB app wasn’t working, so we walked to the bahnhof and purchased Arcobaleno tickets – valid all day in three zones – 7 chf each half fare.
We took a train to Tenero planning to connect to a bus that would take us to the Diga Verzasca stop, not realizing we’d have to run under the tracks and cross the street to catch it, stressing me out a bit, but making it with time to spare.
Our bus was pretty full; it was Friday; we assumed a lot of people were going further up the valley to hike.
A short time later we were in Valle Verzasca, in the Locarno district. Although our second visit to Ticino, we were finding it just as confusing as our first. I’ve since read that there are some 18 separate valleys in Ticino, each offering a myriad of hiking trails, activities and sights.
Our destination - the Verzasca Dam, aka the Contra Dam, aka the Locarno Dam, aka the 007 Bungy Jump - an arch dam on the Verzasca River, and the location of “the best stunt in film history”, when James Bond jumped from the dam in the movie "Golden Eye”.
Valle Verzasca
Verzasca Dam
View from Verzasca Dam
View from Verzasca Dam
007 Bungy Jump
Verzasca Dam
Verzasca Dam gift shop
The dam was busy; evidently it’s on the bus tour route and school holidays were underway.
The hour+ we had between buses was spent exploring the dam, home to the world’s highest stationary bungy station; 380 meters long, 220 meters high, 470 meters above sea level and the fourth highest dam in Switzerland.
We crossed the dam and watched as a worker lowered himself over the edge and down along its walls to work on the climbing wall, which was being prepared for the first ever “head-to-head multi-pitch climbing competition on artificial routes”, scheduled for later in the month. Yikes.
https://www.redbull.com/au-en/events...ll-dual-ascent
Verzasca Dam
As we waited for our return bus to Tenero, three completely full #321 buses passed us going up the valley.
In Tenero we caught a train back to Bellinzona, where we revisited Croce Federale for an encore of pizza and Ticino white merlot (62 chf, good again). Then Bill went back to the apartment to read; I went out to roam – first popping into the gelato shop for what turned out to be the perfect trifecta – chocolate, tiramisu and Nutella, excellent.
Perfect gelato trifecta
I wandered up and down the alleyways of Bellinzona, stumbling upon Palazzo Civico (Civic Palace, Town Hall), where I explored the fascinating inner courtyard.
Bellinzona
Bellinzona
Palazzo Civico
Palazzo Civico
Palazzo Civico
Palazzo Civico
Workers were busy setting up for another event, stalls were going up, it looked to be quite a production; men were busy measuring, laying cable etc. Bellinzona was proving to be quite a happening place and I had to wonder how much the town spends on events, fairs and markets.
Workers setting up for yet another event
I sat on the church steps and watched the world go by; a man playing an accordion, people dining, sipping wine or coffee in the historic center, kids running about.
Bellinzona
Bellinzona
Bellinzona
I eventually took the elevator up to Castel Grande, explored a bit and then walked back down, taking in various monuments along the way. It was a pleasant way to wind up our stay in Bellinzona.
Castel Grande
Views from Castel Grande
Bellinzona
Bellinzona
To be continued...
The SBB app wasn’t working, so we walked to the bahnhof and purchased Arcobaleno tickets – valid all day in three zones – 7 chf each half fare.
We took a train to Tenero planning to connect to a bus that would take us to the Diga Verzasca stop, not realizing we’d have to run under the tracks and cross the street to catch it, stressing me out a bit, but making it with time to spare.
Our bus was pretty full; it was Friday; we assumed a lot of people were going further up the valley to hike.
A short time later we were in Valle Verzasca, in the Locarno district. Although our second visit to Ticino, we were finding it just as confusing as our first. I’ve since read that there are some 18 separate valleys in Ticino, each offering a myriad of hiking trails, activities and sights.
Our destination - the Verzasca Dam, aka the Contra Dam, aka the Locarno Dam, aka the 007 Bungy Jump - an arch dam on the Verzasca River, and the location of “the best stunt in film history”, when James Bond jumped from the dam in the movie "Golden Eye”.
Valle Verzasca
Verzasca Dam
View from Verzasca Dam
View from Verzasca Dam
007 Bungy Jump
Verzasca Dam
Verzasca Dam gift shop
The dam was busy; evidently it’s on the bus tour route and school holidays were underway.
The hour+ we had between buses was spent exploring the dam, home to the world’s highest stationary bungy station; 380 meters long, 220 meters high, 470 meters above sea level and the fourth highest dam in Switzerland.
We crossed the dam and watched as a worker lowered himself over the edge and down along its walls to work on the climbing wall, which was being prepared for the first ever “head-to-head multi-pitch climbing competition on artificial routes”, scheduled for later in the month. Yikes.
https://www.redbull.com/au-en/events...ll-dual-ascent
Verzasca Dam
As we waited for our return bus to Tenero, three completely full #321 buses passed us going up the valley.
In Tenero we caught a train back to Bellinzona, where we revisited Croce Federale for an encore of pizza and Ticino white merlot (62 chf, good again). Then Bill went back to the apartment to read; I went out to roam – first popping into the gelato shop for what turned out to be the perfect trifecta – chocolate, tiramisu and Nutella, excellent.
Perfect gelato trifecta
I wandered up and down the alleyways of Bellinzona, stumbling upon Palazzo Civico (Civic Palace, Town Hall), where I explored the fascinating inner courtyard.
Bellinzona
Bellinzona
Palazzo Civico
Palazzo Civico
Palazzo Civico
Palazzo Civico
Workers were busy setting up for another event, stalls were going up, it looked to be quite a production; men were busy measuring, laying cable etc. Bellinzona was proving to be quite a happening place and I had to wonder how much the town spends on events, fairs and markets.
Workers setting up for yet another event
I sat on the church steps and watched the world go by; a man playing an accordion, people dining, sipping wine or coffee in the historic center, kids running about.
Bellinzona
Bellinzona
Bellinzona
I eventually took the elevator up to Castel Grande, explored a bit and then walked back down, taking in various monuments along the way. It was a pleasant way to wind up our stay in Bellinzona.
Castel Grande
Views from Castel Grande
Bellinzona
Bellinzona
To be continued...
Last edited by Melnq8; Jan 6th, 2023 at 02:47 PM.
Jan 6th, 2023, 04:44 PM
#74
That view from Lugano train station….lovely!
And I am impressed with the vending machine, a far cry from our terrible Coke and chocolate bar machines (although ..Swiss chocolate…..hmmm might be acceptable)
And I am impressed with the vending machine, a far cry from our terrible Coke and chocolate bar machines (although ..Swiss chocolate…..hmmm might be acceptable)
Jan 6th, 2023, 08:32 PM
#77
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That travel day on the 10th would have not been fun... another another testament to your fortitude, but apparently well worth it. You really made good use of your location and I loved your photos of all the lovely lakeside (and other) locations. Lovely!
Jan 7th, 2023, 06:04 AM
#79
And I am impressed with the vending machine, a far cry from our terrible Coke and chocolate bar machines (although ..Swiss chocolate…..hmmm might be acceptable)
Adelaidean, I know right? That's the most interesting (and tempting) vending machine I've ever seen. I always get a kick out of the vending machines in Europe selling condoms and pregnancy tests (and more recently masks).
you and Bill ate so well
tripplanner - I always laugh when people complain about the food in Switzerland. We try to limit eating out to once a day, because it's so expensive (and can be heavy), but we went a bit nuts in Italy...that part coming up soon.
Trophywife - yeah a long travel day, but it worked out okay.
Adelaidean, I know right? That's the most interesting (and tempting) vending machine I've ever seen. I always get a kick out of the vending machines in Europe selling condoms and pregnancy tests (and more recently masks).
you and Bill ate so well
tripplanner - I always laugh when people complain about the food in Switzerland. We try to limit eating out to once a day, because it's so expensive (and can be heavy), but we went a bit nuts in Italy...that part coming up soon.
Trophywife - yeah a long travel day, but it worked out okay.
Jan 7th, 2023, 07:14 AM
#80
Oct 15 -
The noise started at 5:30 am; I looked outside and saw a flurry of activity; a tractor pulling a trailer full of wooden posts which were being loudly lowered to the ground, people setting up stalls and unloading goods - a noisier more frenetic repeat of three days ago. Bellinzona is very much a market town, holding a full on market every Saturday year round, and a smaller market on Wednesdays from April-June, Sept-Oct and for three weeks in December, none of which I was aware of when I booked this particular apartment.
Saturday morning wake-up call
Saturday morning wake-up call
Saturday morning wake-up call
Today we were leaving Italian speaking Switzerland for Italian speaking Italy
.
Our stay in Bellinzona had been interesting, but I think we’ve both decided that Ticino just isn’t for us.
Having booked a Super Saver ticket for today’s transport (13.40 chf each), we said arrivederci and trundled our luggage down to the bus station to board the 8:56 am bus to Splügen, heading over the Splügen Pass one final time.
The ride over the pass was sunny at first, then fog set in towards the top. The 38 km trip took us just under two hours. There were more people on the bus this time, but it certainly wasn’t busy. In the two+ weeks since we’d last made this trip, the larch trees had turned yellow, winter was not far away.
This time there were several Porsches headed up the pass and one impatient motorcyclist; I admire the patience of the bus drivers.
Splügen Pass
Splügen Pass
Splügen Pass
Upon arrival in Chiavenna, we located the apartment, conveniently situated a short, level walk from the bus/train station. I’d arranged an early check in, knowing we’d arrive around 12:30, the owner willing and able to oblige.
Nice place this - spacious and comfortable, with an incredibly well equipped kitchen. The location was perfect, but it would prove to be a wee bit noisy and quite warm ($577.10 for five nights).
We got settled and then headed out to explore the Saturday market that was underway very near the apartment, and then made a quick run to a nearby grocery store for provisions.
Saturday market, Chiavenna
Saturday Market, Chiavenna
Saturday market, Chiavenna
Something was going on – groups of young people in red shirts were parading through the streets, blowing whistles, shouting, pounding drums, making a racket. We didn’t know if it was related to a sporting event, or had something to do with the college in town.
Our next stop was Mastai, located directly across from the bus/train station and a short hop from the apartment. We’d discovered this gem last year on a day trip to Chiavenna.
We settled in for beverages and people watching. With each drink came more food – aperitivo - a tradition I could get used to. The place was hopping - I counted eight people behind the counter, all running their tails off. There was also a table of those red shirted young people, who began chanting as they walked to the counter to pay their bills – management quickly stepping in and telling them to quiet down (or so we assumed because they did). I felt for our waitress – she must log 10 miles a day.
Mastai, aperitivo
Mastai, aperitivo
I’d vowed that I was going to eat gelato every day we were in Italy, working my way through the various flavors, so afterwards, I made a beeline to a nearby shop and tucked into a bowl (€3 for two scoops).
We then set out to wander the streets, working our way through the narrow alleyways, eyes peeled for a bakery for tomorrow’s breakfast (the grocery store near our apartment didn’t sell baked goods - is this an Italy thing?), finally finding a tiny shop and a nice hunk of dark bread (€1.20). It felt like summer here after some of the cold days we’d had earlier in the trip - 17c.
We walked alongside the Fiume Mera (Mera River), following the path to its end before backtracking, surprised to see a jumble of houses perched up on the rocks overlooking the river.
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
The winding streets were filled with people shopping, enjoying alfresco drinks or just out for a stroll, many of them walking dogs.
Chiavenna
We made it to the tourist office before it closed, where we picked up a map and got some advice on walks, etc.
Then it was back to the apartment, where we could see the bus station from our windows. There was a lot of activity, lots of buses coming and going. We feared we were in for a noisy night.
To be continued…
The noise started at 5:30 am; I looked outside and saw a flurry of activity; a tractor pulling a trailer full of wooden posts which were being loudly lowered to the ground, people setting up stalls and unloading goods - a noisier more frenetic repeat of three days ago. Bellinzona is very much a market town, holding a full on market every Saturday year round, and a smaller market on Wednesdays from April-June, Sept-Oct and for three weeks in December, none of which I was aware of when I booked this particular apartment.
Saturday morning wake-up call
Saturday morning wake-up call
Saturday morning wake-up call
Today we were leaving Italian speaking Switzerland for Italian speaking Italy
.Our stay in Bellinzona had been interesting, but I think we’ve both decided that Ticino just isn’t for us.
Having booked a Super Saver ticket for today’s transport (13.40 chf each), we said arrivederci and trundled our luggage down to the bus station to board the 8:56 am bus to Splügen, heading over the Splügen Pass one final time.
The ride over the pass was sunny at first, then fog set in towards the top. The 38 km trip took us just under two hours. There were more people on the bus this time, but it certainly wasn’t busy. In the two+ weeks since we’d last made this trip, the larch trees had turned yellow, winter was not far away.
This time there were several Porsches headed up the pass and one impatient motorcyclist; I admire the patience of the bus drivers.
Splügen Pass
Splügen Pass
Splügen Pass
Upon arrival in Chiavenna, we located the apartment, conveniently situated a short, level walk from the bus/train station. I’d arranged an early check in, knowing we’d arrive around 12:30, the owner willing and able to oblige.
Nice place this - spacious and comfortable, with an incredibly well equipped kitchen. The location was perfect, but it would prove to be a wee bit noisy and quite warm ($577.10 for five nights).
We got settled and then headed out to explore the Saturday market that was underway very near the apartment, and then made a quick run to a nearby grocery store for provisions.
Saturday market, Chiavenna
Saturday Market, Chiavenna
Saturday market, Chiavenna
Something was going on – groups of young people in red shirts were parading through the streets, blowing whistles, shouting, pounding drums, making a racket. We didn’t know if it was related to a sporting event, or had something to do with the college in town.
Our next stop was Mastai, located directly across from the bus/train station and a short hop from the apartment. We’d discovered this gem last year on a day trip to Chiavenna.
We settled in for beverages and people watching. With each drink came more food – aperitivo - a tradition I could get used to. The place was hopping - I counted eight people behind the counter, all running their tails off. There was also a table of those red shirted young people, who began chanting as they walked to the counter to pay their bills – management quickly stepping in and telling them to quiet down (or so we assumed because they did). I felt for our waitress – she must log 10 miles a day.
Mastai, aperitivo
Mastai, aperitivo
I’d vowed that I was going to eat gelato every day we were in Italy, working my way through the various flavors, so afterwards, I made a beeline to a nearby shop and tucked into a bowl (€3 for two scoops).
We then set out to wander the streets, working our way through the narrow alleyways, eyes peeled for a bakery for tomorrow’s breakfast (the grocery store near our apartment didn’t sell baked goods - is this an Italy thing?), finally finding a tiny shop and a nice hunk of dark bread (€1.20). It felt like summer here after some of the cold days we’d had earlier in the trip - 17c.
We walked alongside the Fiume Mera (Mera River), following the path to its end before backtracking, surprised to see a jumble of houses perched up on the rocks overlooking the river.
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
Walking along the Fiume Mera
The winding streets were filled with people shopping, enjoying alfresco drinks or just out for a stroll, many of them walking dogs.
Chiavenna
We made it to the tourist office before it closed, where we picked up a map and got some advice on walks, etc.
Then it was back to the apartment, where we could see the bus station from our windows. There was a lot of activity, lots of buses coming and going. We feared we were in for a noisy night.
To be continued…
Last edited by Melnq8; Jan 7th, 2023 at 07:24 AM.
