Germany, Austria and Italy Trip Report!! My First Trip Report!!
Jan 5th, 2006, 01:33 PM
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Germany, Austria and Italy Trip Report!! My First Trip Report!!
My family and I just got back from an amazing trip to Germany, Austria, and Italy. We visited 8 cities in about 2 weeks. This report reflects those experiences.
Before I start, I would like to thank everyone on Fodors who helped me plan this trip, without you, this report would not be possible!!!
Also, this is my first Trip Report, so I will just do my best to reflect these experiences. If anyone wants more information about a particular aspect of the trip, let me know and I will fill you in!!
We arrived in Munich, Germany in the morning on December 22. We took the train into Munchen Zentrum (Munich City Center) and headed right for our hotel. Hotel Deutsches Theater (Landwehrstraße 18 - 80336 Munich). We absolutely loved this hotel. The staff was friendly and helpful, and the rooms were clean and spacious. The hotel is also located about 5 minutes walking from the city center.
Munich was a lot different than we expected. Inside the center city in the walking district, the city is beautiful. But outside, Munich is industrial and gray, and for the most part, lacking architectural beauty.
However, we spent most of our time inside Marienplatz and the Christmas Market. The Christmas Market was amazing! Streets of shops each with delicious food! I think my family and I spent the first two days in Munich eating our way through the city center!! The gluhwein was amazing too, just what we needed to warm up on a cold winter’s night.
In case you do not know, gluhwein is a sort of hot spiced wine sold everywhere! When you buy it, you get a mug. You can walk around and drink all you want, and after you’re done, if you return the mug, you get some money back.
One of the most surprising things about Munich was the food, it was very cheap, and very delicious!! Compared to other parts of Europe, the food in Munich was half as expensive!!
On our second day, we arrived in the city's central square, Marienplatz, in time for the 11 AM performance of the glockenspiel in the tower of the neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). Then, we walked to the city market, the Viktualienmarkt, to shop for delicious German food. However, the highlight of the day was lunch at the Hofbräuhaus, Munich’s oldest and most well-known beer hall.
The Hofbräuhaus’ atmosphere really felt German!! We drank big steins of beer, are sausage and sauerkraut and listened to a German ompah (spelling*) band play! If anyone ever has the chance to visit Munich, be sure you don’t miss the Hofbräuhaus!!
After a few days in Munich, we caught the train to Salzburg, Austria. It took about 1 hour, and the ride was beautiful. Our train steamed south, cutting through the Bavarian countryside and sleepy snow-covered towns.
In Salzburg, we picked up our rental car at the train station and drove to our hotel. Hotel Stadtkrug, Linzer Gasse 20 - 5020 Salzburg. This hotel was our favorite!! It had the charm we were looking for in an Austrian hotel, the delicious food we all loved, and the location!!! We were on one of the nicest streets in Salzburg, and a 5 minute’s walk from the old town.
Salzburg as a city is amazing at Christmas. The streets are lined with Christmas lights, the Christmas market offers Austrian delicacies, and it just feels like the city was built for Christmas.
We walked through Residenzplatz and through the Arches into Domplatz, where St Rupert’s Cathedral dominates the view. The cathedral was beautiful, especially this time of year when it’s dressed for Christmas.
One of our favorite things in Salzburg was the Fortress Hohensalzburg, a massive fortress that looms over the city. We took the Festungsbahn cable car behind St. Peter’s Cemetery to the top. Trains run every 10 minutes from 9-5. The tickets were expensive, but the view was worth it. From the fortress, all of Salzburg seemed at our fingertips. Do not miss this if you go to Salzburg!!
Salzburg is, perhaps, most famous for being the birthplace of Mozart. For that reason, the city is themed Mozart. Mozart candies line every store window, every church plays Mozart for Christmas mass, and every souvenir has Mozart somewhere!
In Salzburg, we tried the Salzburger Nockerl, a famous dessert. It was cooked eggwhites with sugar and cranberries and milk and flour. Absolutly delicious.
The following day was, perhaps, the most magical. An Austrian friend of mine recommended we drive to Hallstatt for the day, so knowing very little of the town we headed out. Driving south, a heavy snow started to fall as we entered into the Alps. It looked as though snow had been falling for days, by the time we got there, as there was already a good 3 to 4 feet of snow on each roof.
Hallstatt was, in a word, magical. It’s a tiny town at the foot of a great mountain, sitting right where the rocky slopes delve into an alpine lake. We ate in the tiny town square at the only little café we could find (Konditorei Restaurant). The food was delicious, and it prepared us for walking around in the snow. We each got the house special, sausage and potatoes. And we all got some Apple Strudel (theirs was the best!) If you ever go to Austria, do not miss this town, it was our favorite thing we did. I could have stayed there forever. The snow fell in big flakes as we made out way through the ideal little Austrian town, in the ideal location! The views were amazing, and the people were friendly!!
The following morning, we drove to Innsbruck. The road left Salzburg and headed north-west towards Munich, and at Rothenburg we cut south once again.
Germany was cold and dreary today, as it had been since the coming of winter. A thick layer of clouds hung low covering any potential view of the entrance into the Alps. However, today, as we drove south into the Tirol region of Austria, the looming mountains guarded Innsbruck from the gloom of Germany. The highest peaks seemed to guard the Austrian Border from the fog of it’s northern neighbor. As we descended from a mountain pass into Austria, the constant dusk of Germany left us, and before us rose a bright sun against a deep blue sky.
While we are frequent travelers, we had left our directions to our hotel at home. We pulled into Innsbruck, trying to remember the name of our hotel, where it was located, and how to ask “Where is (insert hotel here)” in German. We drove around for almost an hour before finding it. The Hotel was Hotel Grauer Bar. It was over priced and very impersonal. I would not stay there again. However, it did have a convenient location.
Innsbruck is a city of contrasts. The inner old city is incredibly beautiful, both architecturally and culturally, while the outer rings of Innsbruck are very plain. The city itself sits at the foot of a river, and towering over the city loom the Alps. Everything about Innsbruck was amazing, and I would not hesitate to return.
The first day, we walked around the old city. The narrow streets all lead to the main square, where the Golden Roof can be found. The golden roof is, perhaps, more famous by reputation than by actual beauty, but nonetheless it was still an amazing site. We had a very relaxing day touring the city, taking pictures of the mountains which towered over us, and….well….eating our way through Innsbruck. The first thing I think we did was eat Panini.
Innsbruck gets more Italian tourists than German or American tourists, so most of the shops and restaurants cater to them. For that reason, I found it VERY helpful to speak Italian there. I do not speak German, and most of the people I encountered didn’t speak any English, but they all spoke Italian.
I would encourage all of you to go to Innsbruck. Perhaps it’s the natural beauty of the region that makes Innsbruck a truly amazing town, or perhaps it’s the architecture of the old city, or…and most likely…it’s the people.
The following day was, perhaps, the most disappointing. We awoke early, ate breakfast and got on the road. For two and a half ours we wound through the Tyrolean Alps heading west, and then north again into Germany. We followed the A12 west for 39 km, then at Nasareeth took the B179 north into Germany. Our destination was Fussen, a small town stradeling the Austrian/German border made famous for having two castles, the most famous of those is Neuschwanstein.
Let me suggest to anyone traveling to this region, SKIP this castle. For my family and I, this day trip had been the most anticipated, and it was the worst. The castle lines were long, the ticket prices were expensive, and when we finally took the tour, it lasted 15 minutes and was worthless. Besides seeing nothing interesting inside the castle the “English” speaking tourguide was anything but that. She was a Chinese immigrant to Germany who admitted she didn’t speak much English. So that was good….
I had still anticipated that, by taking the tour, I would be able to take some great pictures of the castle. Wrong! There were no great views. All of my pictures of the castle are of the castle’s outermost wall, nothing of interest! Mainly, because there IS no view!
Note* If you go, you do not need to pay for the tour. At one end of the castle, where everyone leaves the tour, the door is open. As we left the tour, there were many people walking in the back way. They did not pay, they were not stuck in long lines, and they walked through at their own pace. This looked like a better idea to us! Haha.
We all drove back disappointed.
The following day, my family and I decided last minute to go skiing in the nearby resorts. Well we were quite pleasantly surprised to discover that the city of Innsbruck offers free buss transport to a number of the main Ski areas. We decided (upon the recommendation of our hotel), to try Axamer Lizum, a mountain very close.
Axamer Lizum lived up to everything I’d ever heard about European Skiing. The slopes were un-groomed, and the trails were not marked. However, the experience was amazing. Besides having some very difficulty skiing, the views were amazing, and the mountain was just beautiful. We had to rent gear there, and it was surprisingly easy.
My family and I go to Colorado every year to go skiing, and renting equipment is always a hassle. But everything flowed smoothly at Axamer Lizum. I would definitely recommend Axamer Lizum to anyone (just be warned there are very few easy slopes).
The following morning, we said goodbye to our Austrian and German leg of the trip and got on a train bound for ITALY! We took a three hour train trip south through Brennero and Trento into Verona. The trip was amazing as we cut through some of the most amazing passes and passed some of the most spectacular scenery I think I’ve ever seen. As we got into Italy, and continued south, the snow began to slowly fade until it was nothing more than a distant memory. Upon arrival in Verona, it was 40 degrees and sunny, (a welcome temperature after Innsbruck!!!)
I had no real expectations going into Verona. I had heard nothing of the city, and my family and I were, more or less, using it as a 2 day stop over before our ultimate destination, Venice. Being of Italian descent, I have been to Italy many times. I have spent weeks at a time touring 18 of the major cities and lots of little villages in between. My point being, believe me when I say Verona is one of the nicest cities in Italy!!!
I was absolutely shocked when I walked out of my hotel for the first time. Everything about the city amazed me. Each building, each piazza and each person. We stayed in Hotel Giulietta e Romeo. Vicolo Tre Marchetti, 3 - 37121 Verona - Italy
Tel. 045.8003554 - Fax 045.8010862.
This hotel was located about 2 seconds from the Roman Arena right in the heart of the old town. I would definitely return to this Hotel. The staff was friendly, the rooms were nice, and the location was unbeatable.
This is the list of things I was told to see before going to Verona:
Duomo: The ornate red-and-white striped Romanesque Duomo, dating back to the 12th century
San Zeno Maggiore: Possibly the finest Romanesque church in Italy is set between two medieval bell towers and has a 12th-century portal
Piazza dei Signori: Verona's great piazza has been at the center of things for more than 1,000 years
Castelvecchio (Old Castle): This crenellated, russet brick building with massive walls, towers, turrets, and a vast courtyard was built for Cangrande II della Scala in 1354. It is close to the city center.
Arena di Verona: Only the Colosseum and the arena in Capua can outdo this amphitheater in size
I would not miss the castle! There isn’t much to see inside the castle, but the Castel does boast a beautiful bridge, from which an amazing view of Verona can be seen.
In addition, we walked around Piazza Erbe, the main square in Verona that was once the center of the ancient Roman Forum. In Piazza Erbe, vendors set up their shops and their stands selling everything from calendars to fresh fruit to Murano Glass (ps, be prepared, Murano glass is EVERYWHERE!)
Aside from that, we also visited the Roman Theater which is a must.
I guess I can’t say enough good things about this city, it is truly on my top 5 list of favorite cities in Italy.
Because we were in Verona on New Years Eve, we decided we should probably find some fireworks somewhere. So we asked the woman at the front desk if there is anywhere in the city we can go and watch fireworks. She said very calmly, “oh yeah, you can go to the Piazza of the Arena, they do fireworks.”
What she didn’t mention is that it would be the most AMAZING show ever. At 11:30 we walked outside out hotel, which was VERY close to the Piazza of the Arena. Upon emerging from the narrow street, we were met with tens of thousands of people, blasting music, live bands, crowds of people setting off fireworks and food and champagne everywhere!! A light snow fell, and each flake further reflected the lights of the city. For 30 minutes we partook in the revelry. Then, at midnight, all lights turned off, and the band stopped playing. All eyes turned to the Arena as drums started to play. Fire erupted from the windows at the top, all choreographed to music. Then the show, fireworks lit up the arena, blasting into the air, in a fiery spectacle that seemed to echo the Roman performances. The show lasted for 10 minutes. When it was finished, we all agreed it had been the best show we had ever seen for New Years.
The following morning, we took the Eurail to Venice. NOTE* The Eurail does not stop for long, In think the train was in the station for 30 seconds before it ripped out of there with only half of my family on it!! Live and learn!!
Eventually we all got to Venice, where we took a Vasporetto (water bus) to the Ponte Rialto. There, we walked (or should I say dragged) ourselves to our hotel. It was cloudy in Venice and a light mist fell.
We stayed at Hotel Palazzo La Scala, San Marco, Calle dei Fabbri 4737 - 30124 Venice. It was a great little hotel about a 5 minute’s walk from Piazza San Marco. The breakfast was delicious, and the staff very friendly. I will definitely return to this hotel!!
The first day we walked around the city mainly in the Piazza San Marco area. It was this first day that we found a delicious little restaurant called Trattoria Pizzeria Da Gioia (located at: Calle dei Fabbri, 1016, Venice) Tel: 041 5223649. The food was very reasonably priced and absolutely delicious. If you go try the simple Spaghetti Pomodoro. It’s made with a special sauce unlike any I’ve ever eaten. We went back two days in a row.
On the second day we took our first Gondola ride. We were told not to pay anymore than 60 Euros for a Gondola, and we ended up paying 75. But it was all worth it! The ride was just great. You can pick up a number of Gondola’s from Piazza San Marco, or near the Rialto Bridge (there are numerous other places in-between but they’re few and far between).
Surprises:
I think a few things surprised us all:
1) the food in Austria and Germany was especially delicious. We were there for two weeks and we never had a bad meal!! Everything was just great!
2) Verona: We were completely impressed with this city!! It was amazing!! The food was good (typical northern style i.e, white sauces, seafood etc).
3) The easiness of the trains and the smoothness with which everything ran!
4) The intense natural beauty of Austria.
5) The Germans and Austrians as a people. I had always heard that the Germany were particularly rude and harsh. This was not true at all. I have never felt so welcome in a country before. Everyone, whether they spoke English or not, was ready to help us to the best of their ability. Not once did we run into any rude people. Everyone was happy and smiling!!
Before I start, I would like to thank everyone on Fodors who helped me plan this trip, without you, this report would not be possible!!!
Also, this is my first Trip Report, so I will just do my best to reflect these experiences. If anyone wants more information about a particular aspect of the trip, let me know and I will fill you in!!
We arrived in Munich, Germany in the morning on December 22. We took the train into Munchen Zentrum (Munich City Center) and headed right for our hotel. Hotel Deutsches Theater (Landwehrstraße 18 - 80336 Munich). We absolutely loved this hotel. The staff was friendly and helpful, and the rooms were clean and spacious. The hotel is also located about 5 minutes walking from the city center.
Munich was a lot different than we expected. Inside the center city in the walking district, the city is beautiful. But outside, Munich is industrial and gray, and for the most part, lacking architectural beauty.
However, we spent most of our time inside Marienplatz and the Christmas Market. The Christmas Market was amazing! Streets of shops each with delicious food! I think my family and I spent the first two days in Munich eating our way through the city center!! The gluhwein was amazing too, just what we needed to warm up on a cold winter’s night.
In case you do not know, gluhwein is a sort of hot spiced wine sold everywhere! When you buy it, you get a mug. You can walk around and drink all you want, and after you’re done, if you return the mug, you get some money back.
One of the most surprising things about Munich was the food, it was very cheap, and very delicious!! Compared to other parts of Europe, the food in Munich was half as expensive!!
On our second day, we arrived in the city's central square, Marienplatz, in time for the 11 AM performance of the glockenspiel in the tower of the neo-Gothic Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall). Then, we walked to the city market, the Viktualienmarkt, to shop for delicious German food. However, the highlight of the day was lunch at the Hofbräuhaus, Munich’s oldest and most well-known beer hall.
The Hofbräuhaus’ atmosphere really felt German!! We drank big steins of beer, are sausage and sauerkraut and listened to a German ompah (spelling*) band play! If anyone ever has the chance to visit Munich, be sure you don’t miss the Hofbräuhaus!!
After a few days in Munich, we caught the train to Salzburg, Austria. It took about 1 hour, and the ride was beautiful. Our train steamed south, cutting through the Bavarian countryside and sleepy snow-covered towns.
In Salzburg, we picked up our rental car at the train station and drove to our hotel. Hotel Stadtkrug, Linzer Gasse 20 - 5020 Salzburg. This hotel was our favorite!! It had the charm we were looking for in an Austrian hotel, the delicious food we all loved, and the location!!! We were on one of the nicest streets in Salzburg, and a 5 minute’s walk from the old town.
Salzburg as a city is amazing at Christmas. The streets are lined with Christmas lights, the Christmas market offers Austrian delicacies, and it just feels like the city was built for Christmas.
We walked through Residenzplatz and through the Arches into Domplatz, where St Rupert’s Cathedral dominates the view. The cathedral was beautiful, especially this time of year when it’s dressed for Christmas.
One of our favorite things in Salzburg was the Fortress Hohensalzburg, a massive fortress that looms over the city. We took the Festungsbahn cable car behind St. Peter’s Cemetery to the top. Trains run every 10 minutes from 9-5. The tickets were expensive, but the view was worth it. From the fortress, all of Salzburg seemed at our fingertips. Do not miss this if you go to Salzburg!!
Salzburg is, perhaps, most famous for being the birthplace of Mozart. For that reason, the city is themed Mozart. Mozart candies line every store window, every church plays Mozart for Christmas mass, and every souvenir has Mozart somewhere!
In Salzburg, we tried the Salzburger Nockerl, a famous dessert. It was cooked eggwhites with sugar and cranberries and milk and flour. Absolutly delicious.
The following day was, perhaps, the most magical. An Austrian friend of mine recommended we drive to Hallstatt for the day, so knowing very little of the town we headed out. Driving south, a heavy snow started to fall as we entered into the Alps. It looked as though snow had been falling for days, by the time we got there, as there was already a good 3 to 4 feet of snow on each roof.
Hallstatt was, in a word, magical. It’s a tiny town at the foot of a great mountain, sitting right where the rocky slopes delve into an alpine lake. We ate in the tiny town square at the only little café we could find (Konditorei Restaurant). The food was delicious, and it prepared us for walking around in the snow. We each got the house special, sausage and potatoes. And we all got some Apple Strudel (theirs was the best!) If you ever go to Austria, do not miss this town, it was our favorite thing we did. I could have stayed there forever. The snow fell in big flakes as we made out way through the ideal little Austrian town, in the ideal location! The views were amazing, and the people were friendly!!
The following morning, we drove to Innsbruck. The road left Salzburg and headed north-west towards Munich, and at Rothenburg we cut south once again.
Germany was cold and dreary today, as it had been since the coming of winter. A thick layer of clouds hung low covering any potential view of the entrance into the Alps. However, today, as we drove south into the Tirol region of Austria, the looming mountains guarded Innsbruck from the gloom of Germany. The highest peaks seemed to guard the Austrian Border from the fog of it’s northern neighbor. As we descended from a mountain pass into Austria, the constant dusk of Germany left us, and before us rose a bright sun against a deep blue sky.
While we are frequent travelers, we had left our directions to our hotel at home. We pulled into Innsbruck, trying to remember the name of our hotel, where it was located, and how to ask “Where is (insert hotel here)” in German. We drove around for almost an hour before finding it. The Hotel was Hotel Grauer Bar. It was over priced and very impersonal. I would not stay there again. However, it did have a convenient location.
Innsbruck is a city of contrasts. The inner old city is incredibly beautiful, both architecturally and culturally, while the outer rings of Innsbruck are very plain. The city itself sits at the foot of a river, and towering over the city loom the Alps. Everything about Innsbruck was amazing, and I would not hesitate to return.
The first day, we walked around the old city. The narrow streets all lead to the main square, where the Golden Roof can be found. The golden roof is, perhaps, more famous by reputation than by actual beauty, but nonetheless it was still an amazing site. We had a very relaxing day touring the city, taking pictures of the mountains which towered over us, and….well….eating our way through Innsbruck. The first thing I think we did was eat Panini.
Innsbruck gets more Italian tourists than German or American tourists, so most of the shops and restaurants cater to them. For that reason, I found it VERY helpful to speak Italian there. I do not speak German, and most of the people I encountered didn’t speak any English, but they all spoke Italian.
I would encourage all of you to go to Innsbruck. Perhaps it’s the natural beauty of the region that makes Innsbruck a truly amazing town, or perhaps it’s the architecture of the old city, or…and most likely…it’s the people.
The following day was, perhaps, the most disappointing. We awoke early, ate breakfast and got on the road. For two and a half ours we wound through the Tyrolean Alps heading west, and then north again into Germany. We followed the A12 west for 39 km, then at Nasareeth took the B179 north into Germany. Our destination was Fussen, a small town stradeling the Austrian/German border made famous for having two castles, the most famous of those is Neuschwanstein.
Let me suggest to anyone traveling to this region, SKIP this castle. For my family and I, this day trip had been the most anticipated, and it was the worst. The castle lines were long, the ticket prices were expensive, and when we finally took the tour, it lasted 15 minutes and was worthless. Besides seeing nothing interesting inside the castle the “English” speaking tourguide was anything but that. She was a Chinese immigrant to Germany who admitted she didn’t speak much English. So that was good….
I had still anticipated that, by taking the tour, I would be able to take some great pictures of the castle. Wrong! There were no great views. All of my pictures of the castle are of the castle’s outermost wall, nothing of interest! Mainly, because there IS no view!
Note* If you go, you do not need to pay for the tour. At one end of the castle, where everyone leaves the tour, the door is open. As we left the tour, there were many people walking in the back way. They did not pay, they were not stuck in long lines, and they walked through at their own pace. This looked like a better idea to us! Haha.
We all drove back disappointed.
The following day, my family and I decided last minute to go skiing in the nearby resorts. Well we were quite pleasantly surprised to discover that the city of Innsbruck offers free buss transport to a number of the main Ski areas. We decided (upon the recommendation of our hotel), to try Axamer Lizum, a mountain very close.
Axamer Lizum lived up to everything I’d ever heard about European Skiing. The slopes were un-groomed, and the trails were not marked. However, the experience was amazing. Besides having some very difficulty skiing, the views were amazing, and the mountain was just beautiful. We had to rent gear there, and it was surprisingly easy.
My family and I go to Colorado every year to go skiing, and renting equipment is always a hassle. But everything flowed smoothly at Axamer Lizum. I would definitely recommend Axamer Lizum to anyone (just be warned there are very few easy slopes).
The following morning, we said goodbye to our Austrian and German leg of the trip and got on a train bound for ITALY! We took a three hour train trip south through Brennero and Trento into Verona. The trip was amazing as we cut through some of the most amazing passes and passed some of the most spectacular scenery I think I’ve ever seen. As we got into Italy, and continued south, the snow began to slowly fade until it was nothing more than a distant memory. Upon arrival in Verona, it was 40 degrees and sunny, (a welcome temperature after Innsbruck!!!)
I had no real expectations going into Verona. I had heard nothing of the city, and my family and I were, more or less, using it as a 2 day stop over before our ultimate destination, Venice. Being of Italian descent, I have been to Italy many times. I have spent weeks at a time touring 18 of the major cities and lots of little villages in between. My point being, believe me when I say Verona is one of the nicest cities in Italy!!!
I was absolutely shocked when I walked out of my hotel for the first time. Everything about the city amazed me. Each building, each piazza and each person. We stayed in Hotel Giulietta e Romeo. Vicolo Tre Marchetti, 3 - 37121 Verona - Italy
Tel. 045.8003554 - Fax 045.8010862.
This hotel was located about 2 seconds from the Roman Arena right in the heart of the old town. I would definitely return to this Hotel. The staff was friendly, the rooms were nice, and the location was unbeatable.
This is the list of things I was told to see before going to Verona:
Duomo: The ornate red-and-white striped Romanesque Duomo, dating back to the 12th century
San Zeno Maggiore: Possibly the finest Romanesque church in Italy is set between two medieval bell towers and has a 12th-century portal
Piazza dei Signori: Verona's great piazza has been at the center of things for more than 1,000 years
Castelvecchio (Old Castle): This crenellated, russet brick building with massive walls, towers, turrets, and a vast courtyard was built for Cangrande II della Scala in 1354. It is close to the city center.
Arena di Verona: Only the Colosseum and the arena in Capua can outdo this amphitheater in size
I would not miss the castle! There isn’t much to see inside the castle, but the Castel does boast a beautiful bridge, from which an amazing view of Verona can be seen.
In addition, we walked around Piazza Erbe, the main square in Verona that was once the center of the ancient Roman Forum. In Piazza Erbe, vendors set up their shops and their stands selling everything from calendars to fresh fruit to Murano Glass (ps, be prepared, Murano glass is EVERYWHERE!)
Aside from that, we also visited the Roman Theater which is a must.
I guess I can’t say enough good things about this city, it is truly on my top 5 list of favorite cities in Italy.
Because we were in Verona on New Years Eve, we decided we should probably find some fireworks somewhere. So we asked the woman at the front desk if there is anywhere in the city we can go and watch fireworks. She said very calmly, “oh yeah, you can go to the Piazza of the Arena, they do fireworks.”
What she didn’t mention is that it would be the most AMAZING show ever. At 11:30 we walked outside out hotel, which was VERY close to the Piazza of the Arena. Upon emerging from the narrow street, we were met with tens of thousands of people, blasting music, live bands, crowds of people setting off fireworks and food and champagne everywhere!! A light snow fell, and each flake further reflected the lights of the city. For 30 minutes we partook in the revelry. Then, at midnight, all lights turned off, and the band stopped playing. All eyes turned to the Arena as drums started to play. Fire erupted from the windows at the top, all choreographed to music. Then the show, fireworks lit up the arena, blasting into the air, in a fiery spectacle that seemed to echo the Roman performances. The show lasted for 10 minutes. When it was finished, we all agreed it had been the best show we had ever seen for New Years.
The following morning, we took the Eurail to Venice. NOTE* The Eurail does not stop for long, In think the train was in the station for 30 seconds before it ripped out of there with only half of my family on it!! Live and learn!!
Eventually we all got to Venice, where we took a Vasporetto (water bus) to the Ponte Rialto. There, we walked (or should I say dragged) ourselves to our hotel. It was cloudy in Venice and a light mist fell.
We stayed at Hotel Palazzo La Scala, San Marco, Calle dei Fabbri 4737 - 30124 Venice. It was a great little hotel about a 5 minute’s walk from Piazza San Marco. The breakfast was delicious, and the staff very friendly. I will definitely return to this hotel!!
The first day we walked around the city mainly in the Piazza San Marco area. It was this first day that we found a delicious little restaurant called Trattoria Pizzeria Da Gioia (located at: Calle dei Fabbri, 1016, Venice) Tel: 041 5223649. The food was very reasonably priced and absolutely delicious. If you go try the simple Spaghetti Pomodoro. It’s made with a special sauce unlike any I’ve ever eaten. We went back two days in a row.
On the second day we took our first Gondola ride. We were told not to pay anymore than 60 Euros for a Gondola, and we ended up paying 75. But it was all worth it! The ride was just great. You can pick up a number of Gondola’s from Piazza San Marco, or near the Rialto Bridge (there are numerous other places in-between but they’re few and far between).
Surprises:
I think a few things surprised us all:
1) the food in Austria and Germany was especially delicious. We were there for two weeks and we never had a bad meal!! Everything was just great!
2) Verona: We were completely impressed with this city!! It was amazing!! The food was good (typical northern style i.e, white sauces, seafood etc).
3) The easiness of the trains and the smoothness with which everything ran!
4) The intense natural beauty of Austria.
5) The Germans and Austrians as a people. I had always heard that the Germany were particularly rude and harsh. This was not true at all. I have never felt so welcome in a country before. Everyone, whether they spoke English or not, was ready to help us to the best of their ability. Not once did we run into any rude people. Everyone was happy and smiling!!
Jan 5th, 2006, 03:45 PM
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http://www.hohenschwangau.de/548.0.html
is the link to the on-line ticket reservation system for neuschwanstein castle. No need to line up, just drop by and pick up your tix (you must pick a time that will allow you enough time to get to the top.) Though I agree that the hike up and the view is the major part of the experience.
Agree with you about Verona, it's a great place. Glad you enjoyed your trip.
is the link to the on-line ticket reservation system for neuschwanstein castle. No need to line up, just drop by and pick up your tix (you must pick a time that will allow you enough time to get to the top.) Though I agree that the hike up and the view is the major part of the experience.
Agree with you about Verona, it's a great place. Glad you enjoyed your trip.
Jan 5th, 2006, 04:12 PM
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And if you do make advance reservations for Neuschwanstein Castle (which we found to be fascinating--but then we are history buffs and Mrs. Fly is really into crafts of various kinds) and Hohenschwangau Castles, you can change the times at the ticket center if your plans change a bit. It was nice not having to wait in lines.
Jan 5th, 2006, 04:56 PM
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We thought the food was good in Germany and Austria too. I think we were expecting a lot of heavy, leaden meals, but were very pleasantly surprised. I could eat goulash or goulash soup every day, twice a day. And the breads and pastries are delicious too.
We also had a great time in Verona.
Thanks for sharing!
We also had a great time in Verona.
Thanks for sharing!
Jan 5th, 2006, 06:10 PM
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I really enjoyed your trip report. I'm sorry that you didn't enjoy your trip to Neuschwanstein, I thought that it was worth my time. I agree with you though, that I also fell in love with Germany as well (I went to visit for the first time this past November) - the gluhwein from the Christmas markets, the people, the fabulous food! Oh, I wish I were going back soon!
Jan 5th, 2006, 07:10 PM
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I guess, in my mind, I had built up Neuschwanstein castle so much, that when it didn't live up to my expectations, it was disappointing. I felt that the castle had been so beautiful in all the post cards and photos that I had scene, but in real life it wasn't the same. I was looking for better views of the castle, not just the outer wall. oh well, maybe i'll try it again in the summer sometime.
Jan 5th, 2006, 09:11 PM
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Great trip report Romulus, even if it wasn't your first one!! All Germans I know are so friendly and pleasant..glad that you found them to be so. And I love German food. A wife of a cousin in from Munich and her dinners are so good.
Verona on NY Eve. How perfect. Your description makes one feel as though they were there with you.
Wishing you more beautiful trips!!
Verona on NY Eve. How perfect. Your description makes one feel as though they were there with you.
Wishing you more beautiful trips!!
Jan 6th, 2006, 07:22 AM
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Great report! It makes me excited for my trip to Germany in May!
Were you unable to get to the Marianbrucke (sp?)? That offers the best view of Neuschwanstein. My brother discovered it when we were there before (not that it is hidden), and we were able to take postcard worthy pictures. I agree, the inside was less than stellar, but I loved hiking around outside of it.
Were you unable to get to the Marianbrucke (sp?)? That offers the best view of Neuschwanstein. My brother discovered it when we were there before (not that it is hidden), and we were able to take postcard worthy pictures. I agree, the inside was less than stellar, but I loved hiking around outside of it.
Jan 6th, 2006, 07:52 AM
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StLgrrrl
I was there in early Dec. (just on the outside since I had been before) and asked about Marienbrucke but it was closed! That certainly is the view but apparently dangerous footing in the winter.
Romulus
Really enjoying your report. CJ
I was there in early Dec. (just on the outside since I had been before) and asked about Marienbrucke but it was closed! That certainly is the view but apparently dangerous footing in the winter.
Romulus
Really enjoying your report. CJ
Jan 6th, 2006, 08:29 AM
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i did see a bridge with one person on it, overlooking the castle, however (while my intentions were to find the bridge and see the castle), it got dark, and I never made it. Now I have reason to go back!!
Jan 6th, 2006, 08:29 AM
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Now you've gone and made me even sadder that when we were in Salzburg over New Years we weren't able to get to Halstatt. Next time for sure.
Your Neauschwanstein experience is sad. We first went about 30 years ago and tours took over an hour with all the photographing you wanted to do permitted. I've been there recently and seen what mass tourism does to a place--timed entry, long lines, short tours, no photos. It's sad, but as my departed mother-in-law always said--Vaat can you do? It's the price we pay for the prosperity that makes it possible for ever larger numbers of tourists to travel--and for over population.
Your Neauschwanstein experience is sad. We first went about 30 years ago and tours took over an hour with all the photographing you wanted to do permitted. I've been there recently and seen what mass tourism does to a place--timed entry, long lines, short tours, no photos. It's sad, but as my departed mother-in-law always said--Vaat can you do? It's the price we pay for the prosperity that makes it possible for ever larger numbers of tourists to travel--and for over population.
Jan 6th, 2006, 03:40 PM
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Wonderful report Romulus. "Magical" is certainly how I would describe Germany and Austria at Christmastime. Everyone should experience it once in their lifetime.
DH was born and raised in Bavaria, and has always said that Neuschwanstein was a tourist trap, as the tours don't let you see 95% of the castle. What we do enjoy in Füssen, however, is the gondola ride up the mountain. From the gondola, you can see both Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau and spectacular views of the Alps. The hefe-weizen at the restaurant at the top is and added bonus
.
I also loved your description of Verona, which I honestly enjoyed more than Venice. Your report makes me want to be there at New Year's Eve.
Thanks for taking me back. I can almost smell the glühwein!
DH was born and raised in Bavaria, and has always said that Neuschwanstein was a tourist trap, as the tours don't let you see 95% of the castle. What we do enjoy in Füssen, however, is the gondola ride up the mountain. From the gondola, you can see both Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau and spectacular views of the Alps. The hefe-weizen at the restaurant at the top is and added bonus
.I also loved your description of Verona, which I honestly enjoyed more than Venice. Your report makes me want to be there at New Year's Eve.
Thanks for taking me back. I can almost smell the glühwein!
Jan 6th, 2006, 05:00 PM
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I loved your trip report and have saved it for future reference. I've been to most of places you mentioned but would do it all again. So glad you liked Hallstatt. I visited there in October 1996 and it was so beautiful - I could take up residence. Munich is the other city I thought I could live in.
As to the food, I loved all the food I ate in Germany, especially. I, too, thought it might be "leaden" but it was very good (frankly, better than in most European countries I've visited) and very reasonably priced.
Yes, you did miss the great view of Neushwanstein from the Marianbrucke. I enjoyed the interior (liked the furnishings better)but Hohenschwangau, just below and another of Ludwig's was more furnished and very nice.
One reason to go back to Southern Germany is to see Ludwig's Linderhof castle - gorgeous park grounds, beautiful castle and was my overall favorite.
Thanks so much for sharing; you did a great job of it.
As to the food, I loved all the food I ate in Germany, especially. I, too, thought it might be "leaden" but it was very good (frankly, better than in most European countries I've visited) and very reasonably priced.
Yes, you did miss the great view of Neushwanstein from the Marianbrucke. I enjoyed the interior (liked the furnishings better)but Hohenschwangau, just below and another of Ludwig's was more furnished and very nice.
One reason to go back to Southern Germany is to see Ludwig's Linderhof castle - gorgeous park grounds, beautiful castle and was my overall favorite.
Thanks so much for sharing; you did a great job of it.
