From the Autostadt to the Alps and on to the Adriatic.
Aug 26th, 2009, 04:42 PM
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German Highlights Continued - Rothenburg
We arrived in Rothenburg late in the afternoon, and immediately set out to walk the city walls. Upon leaving the hotel, we turned right onto the street, and turned right again when we arrived at the wall. After walking a short distance, we came upon a lovely park surrounded by the wall, with gardens, large trees, a pretty stone chapel, and beautiful views back toward the town. It was so absolutely picturesque that Cassie and I immediately went into a sort of camera frenzy, shooting everything in sight from several different angles. Fortunately for Steve and Matt, who were patiently waiting for us to join them on the wall walk, the rumble of distant thunder moving closer finally caught our attention, and we decided we should head for the nearest covered walkway. We just made it before the storm hit and so we were able to continue our walk mostly protected from the rain.
Cassie and Matt decided that pizza was their meal of choice for dinner that night, and headed for the Pizzaria Italia, recommended in many guide books. Their pizza was excellent. Steve and I decided to try the restaurant in the hotel, ordering our favorite German dinner of sauerbraten, dumplings, and red cabbage, which was also excellent. We quickly realized during dinner that every other table in the dining room was occupied by Americans. Soon, we were all chatting and comparing notes, as comfortable and casual as if we were sharing a neighbor's back yard back home. I guess neighborhoods are relative when you are traveling. Before we left the restaurant, however, local residents began arriving for dinner, reassuring us that Hotel Klosterstuble's dining room was not just reserved for tourists.
When we were researching Rothenburg for this trip, the Nighwatchman's Tour kept turning up as a "must do". Cassie and Matt opted out, and I was hesitant, reluctant to join a jostling group following a tour guide who was spouting his spiel for the thousandth time. There was a real possibility that the whole experience would be boring and a bit uncomfortable. Far from it! Our nightwatchman was a gifted actor with a distinctive and compelling voice. He related bits of history and folklore as if he had experienced it himself yesterday. Funny, informative, and very authentic, he conveyed to us a real sense of the place we were experiencing. We add our recommendations to all the others.
Another highlight of Rothenburg at night was the beautifully lighted windows of the shops, especially Kathe Wohlfahrt's collection of Christmas merchandise. These glowing collages of German Christmas crafts make lovely photo opportunities.
Note: the Hotel Klosterstuble was a good place to stay in Rothenburg. It has a convenient location, helpful, pleasant staff, and a beautiful stonewalled breakfast room full of atmosphere. The rooms felt small, but perhaps that was only in relation to the Castle Hotel Schoenburg the night before.
We arrived in Rothenburg late in the afternoon, and immediately set out to walk the city walls. Upon leaving the hotel, we turned right onto the street, and turned right again when we arrived at the wall. After walking a short distance, we came upon a lovely park surrounded by the wall, with gardens, large trees, a pretty stone chapel, and beautiful views back toward the town. It was so absolutely picturesque that Cassie and I immediately went into a sort of camera frenzy, shooting everything in sight from several different angles. Fortunately for Steve and Matt, who were patiently waiting for us to join them on the wall walk, the rumble of distant thunder moving closer finally caught our attention, and we decided we should head for the nearest covered walkway. We just made it before the storm hit and so we were able to continue our walk mostly protected from the rain.
Cassie and Matt decided that pizza was their meal of choice for dinner that night, and headed for the Pizzaria Italia, recommended in many guide books. Their pizza was excellent. Steve and I decided to try the restaurant in the hotel, ordering our favorite German dinner of sauerbraten, dumplings, and red cabbage, which was also excellent. We quickly realized during dinner that every other table in the dining room was occupied by Americans. Soon, we were all chatting and comparing notes, as comfortable and casual as if we were sharing a neighbor's back yard back home. I guess neighborhoods are relative when you are traveling. Before we left the restaurant, however, local residents began arriving for dinner, reassuring us that Hotel Klosterstuble's dining room was not just reserved for tourists.
When we were researching Rothenburg for this trip, the Nighwatchman's Tour kept turning up as a "must do". Cassie and Matt opted out, and I was hesitant, reluctant to join a jostling group following a tour guide who was spouting his spiel for the thousandth time. There was a real possibility that the whole experience would be boring and a bit uncomfortable. Far from it! Our nightwatchman was a gifted actor with a distinctive and compelling voice. He related bits of history and folklore as if he had experienced it himself yesterday. Funny, informative, and very authentic, he conveyed to us a real sense of the place we were experiencing. We add our recommendations to all the others.
Another highlight of Rothenburg at night was the beautifully lighted windows of the shops, especially Kathe Wohlfahrt's collection of Christmas merchandise. These glowing collages of German Christmas crafts make lovely photo opportunities.
Note: the Hotel Klosterstuble was a good place to stay in Rothenburg. It has a convenient location, helpful, pleasant staff, and a beautiful stonewalled breakfast room full of atmosphere. The rooms felt small, but perhaps that was only in relation to the Castle Hotel Schoenburg the night before.
Aug 27th, 2009, 07:00 AM
#23
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Candace, I am really enjoying your report! We've stayed in the Hotel Klosterstuble twice; the first time the room was much smaller than our last visit. And I wholeheartedly agree about the Nightwatchman's Tour. At first I was wondering what all of the fuss could possibly be about, but it didn't take long to get it. Looking forward to the rest! Ljubljana is one of our favorite cities in Europe, so I'm particularly looking forward to that one.
Tracy
Tracy
Aug 30th, 2009, 04:44 PM
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Saraho, I hope you can visit Germany again soon. I know that homesick feeling!
Tracy, I am so glad to hear from you! When we were planning our trip to Umbria a few years ago, your Italian trip report inspired us to book an apartment with Silvana and Mario at Le Case Gaille. We booked the apartment "L'Acquaio" because "LaTerrazza" was not available at the time. We absolutely loved it! So when we were looking for a place to stay in Rothenburg, we read your German trip report and decided to reserve rooms at the Hotel Klosterstuble, knowing we could be confident in your recommendation. Thanks, again!
This trip report is taking forever to write, and I apologize. Ljubljana was one of our favorites, too, and I hope to cover that part of our trip soon.
Tracy, I am so glad to hear from you! When we were planning our trip to Umbria a few years ago, your Italian trip report inspired us to book an apartment with Silvana and Mario at Le Case Gaille. We booked the apartment "L'Acquaio" because "LaTerrazza" was not available at the time. We absolutely loved it! So when we were looking for a place to stay in Rothenburg, we read your German trip report and decided to reserve rooms at the Hotel Klosterstuble, knowing we could be confident in your recommendation. Thanks, again!
This trip report is taking forever to write, and I apologize. Ljubljana was one of our favorites, too, and I hope to cover that part of our trip soon.
Aug 31st, 2009, 10:45 AM
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Hi Mom! I love this trip report - I feel like I'm right back in Germany. I was laughing out loud at your description of your map reading skills - I think I have the same problem and come by it 100% genetically. Although, remember Matt and Dad didn't listen to us when we said "We don't want to head towards Berlin!" on the way to Wolfsburg. They listened to TomTom and had to turn around 5 km later. We one-upped TomTom that time 
Can't wait to read more!
Can't wait to read more!
Sep 1st, 2009, 05:29 PM
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It was a wonderful trip, Cassie! Wish we could do it all again. Writing this trip report is a joy, because I can re-live all the memories. I am a little embarrassed that it is taking so long to write, but I am going to keep at it until it is done.
Sep 3rd, 2009, 05:36 PM
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5 Beautiful Days in Berchtesgadener Land
After leaving Rothenburg in the morning, we stopped at the afore-mentioned Carl Still factory, and then headed toward Berchtesgaden, with plans to stop at the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial. After lunch with our gracious host from the Carl Company, we were running late, and arrived at the Dachau entrance late in the afternoon. We had less than an hour before closing time, and we thought about moving on and coming back at a later time. But probably this was our best chance to visit the site, so we made the decision to stay and do a quick tour. Probably not the best decision, I have to say. The site was disturbing, profound, and worth a lot more time than we could allot to it. But still, the impression will stay with us. I will never forget the agonized sculpture, looming over the floral tributes set against the wall. It's jagged angles of stylized agony set against a steel gray sky hurt me to look at, although such a place should double you over in pain. Human nature, I guess, protects itself from such extremes. Perhaps that is why such evil can exist. As we were walking through the compound, it began to rain. It was not a hard rain, more like a heavy mist, bleak and damp, like cold tears. We left with only a few minutes left til closing, and resumed driving toward our rental apartments near Berchtesgaden, feeling drained.
The drive took longer than we had anticipated. The weather began to really deteriorate as heavy rain moved in and turned the sky almost as dark as twilight. Everyone began to sink into moods that reflected the weather, until finally we reached the town of Berchtesgaden and headed into the countryside where Gasthaus Aschbachhof was located. Cassie, at this point, was totally stressed, as she had booked this place on the internet because it looked so pretty, but who really knew? There were no reviews, and the website was totally in German. We drove up the driveway, and Steve and Matt got out of the car and went to find out if we were in the right place. They were gone for what seemed like forever and they did not have good news when they came back. Basically, no one was home but a very nice older lady who spoke absolutely no English and seemed to know nothing about us. We sat in the car for a minute, trying to decide our next move, when a little pickup truck drove up and suddenly everything was alright. As we moved into our lovely apartment, and Cassie and Matt unloaded their stuff at the little Hansel and Gretel cottage at the edge of the driveway that was to be theirs for the next 6 nights, the sun came out, and a lovely rainbow (I'm not kidding) appeared above the mountains that had suddenly appeared out of the mist. As the sun reappeared and strenghtened, and then began to set, the mountains glowed with a silvery sheen and then darkened as we watched. Again, an unforgettable evening in Germany.
After leaving Rothenburg in the morning, we stopped at the afore-mentioned Carl Still factory, and then headed toward Berchtesgaden, with plans to stop at the Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial. After lunch with our gracious host from the Carl Company, we were running late, and arrived at the Dachau entrance late in the afternoon. We had less than an hour before closing time, and we thought about moving on and coming back at a later time. But probably this was our best chance to visit the site, so we made the decision to stay and do a quick tour. Probably not the best decision, I have to say. The site was disturbing, profound, and worth a lot more time than we could allot to it. But still, the impression will stay with us. I will never forget the agonized sculpture, looming over the floral tributes set against the wall. It's jagged angles of stylized agony set against a steel gray sky hurt me to look at, although such a place should double you over in pain. Human nature, I guess, protects itself from such extremes. Perhaps that is why such evil can exist. As we were walking through the compound, it began to rain. It was not a hard rain, more like a heavy mist, bleak and damp, like cold tears. We left with only a few minutes left til closing, and resumed driving toward our rental apartments near Berchtesgaden, feeling drained.
The drive took longer than we had anticipated. The weather began to really deteriorate as heavy rain moved in and turned the sky almost as dark as twilight. Everyone began to sink into moods that reflected the weather, until finally we reached the town of Berchtesgaden and headed into the countryside where Gasthaus Aschbachhof was located. Cassie, at this point, was totally stressed, as she had booked this place on the internet because it looked so pretty, but who really knew? There were no reviews, and the website was totally in German. We drove up the driveway, and Steve and Matt got out of the car and went to find out if we were in the right place. They were gone for what seemed like forever and they did not have good news when they came back. Basically, no one was home but a very nice older lady who spoke absolutely no English and seemed to know nothing about us. We sat in the car for a minute, trying to decide our next move, when a little pickup truck drove up and suddenly everything was alright. As we moved into our lovely apartment, and Cassie and Matt unloaded their stuff at the little Hansel and Gretel cottage at the edge of the driveway that was to be theirs for the next 6 nights, the sun came out, and a lovely rainbow (I'm not kidding) appeared above the mountains that had suddenly appeared out of the mist. As the sun reappeared and strenghtened, and then began to set, the mountains glowed with a silvery sheen and then darkened as we watched. Again, an unforgettable evening in Germany.
Sep 7th, 2009, 05:09 PM
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We woke up the next morning in the Gastehaus Aschbachhof to a beautiful sunny day. We were refreshed after a good night's sleep, aided by those wonderful down comforters and crisply cased pillows that seem to cover every bed in Germany. The bed in our apartment at the Aschbachhof was especially nice. In fact, everything about our apartment was great. Decorated with pretty country furniture in blond wood, with lace curtains and a comfortable little sofa upholstered in blue, the main room was outfitted with a small kitchen, a dining area, and comfortable seating for reading or watching TV. The bedroom was large with lots of storage, and the bathroom was small but adequate. There was also a perfect little balcony with a spectacular view of the surrounding mountains. Located on the second floor of the Springl family's large Bavarian style farmhouse which was built in the 1500's, the apartment was bright, cheerful, and immaculately clean. Cassie and Matt stayed in the little guest cottage located between the roadway and the farm's dairy barn. The gentle mooing of cows often greeted them in the morning. They loved it. The cottage had a kitchen and bathroom on the ground floor and a bedroom reached either by a ladder from the kitchen or by stairs from the outside. The cottage was quite a bit smaller than our apartment, so we prepared most of our dinners at our place.
The Springl family made us feel welcome, and although they spoke very little English, we always seemed able to communicate. Passing almost a week under their roof, we quickly came to appreciate how hard they worked to keep both their farm and their home in tiptop shape.
The Springl family made us feel welcome, and although they spoke very little English, we always seemed able to communicate. Passing almost a week under their roof, we quickly came to appreciate how hard they worked to keep both their farm and their home in tiptop shape.
Sep 14th, 2009, 04:57 PM
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Berchtesgaden Land - Home for 5 Days
When Cassie suggested the Berchtesgaden region as a base for our rental stay, I wondered if there would be enough to keep us occupied for 6 nights and 5 full days of sightseeing activities in the area. No problem! We spent 3 days exploring Berchtesgaden National Park, enjoying beautiful Lake Konigssee and Mount Jenner, which were less than 10 minutes from our rental apartment. Austria was the bonus destination. It did not take long (I can't remember exactly, but less than 45 minutes, I think) to drive from the Gastehaus Aschbachhof to Hallstatt on one day and to Salzburg on another.
<Lake Konigssee
The afternoon of our first day at the Aschbachhof, after stocking up on groceries and miscellaneous provisions at the nice little supermarket in town, we drove to the park entrance, paid a few euros to park, and walked down to the lake. Souvenir shops line the roadway from the parking lot to the lake, but the mix of touristy offerings from lederhosen and traditional dresses to faux rock jewelry and lava rock candles was fun to browse on the way to the lakeside. On reaching the lake, we took the path past the boathouses, climbed a hill and eventually skirted the lake until we reached the point with the best view of St Bartholoma, far on a distant shore, made famous by generations of artists. Really, it is a wonderful combination of spectacular natural scenery and lovely quaint architecture. Fortunately, from that distance, we could not see the scaffolding that surrounded the church. Always, on every trip to Europe, there is inevitably one place surrounded by scaffolding. But we accept that maintenance as necessary, in order to preserve the beautiful structures we enjoy so much. So - a positive within a negative.
When Cassie suggested the Berchtesgaden region as a base for our rental stay, I wondered if there would be enough to keep us occupied for 6 nights and 5 full days of sightseeing activities in the area. No problem! We spent 3 days exploring Berchtesgaden National Park, enjoying beautiful Lake Konigssee and Mount Jenner, which were less than 10 minutes from our rental apartment. Austria was the bonus destination. It did not take long (I can't remember exactly, but less than 45 minutes, I think) to drive from the Gastehaus Aschbachhof to Hallstatt on one day and to Salzburg on another.
<Lake Konigssee
The afternoon of our first day at the Aschbachhof, after stocking up on groceries and miscellaneous provisions at the nice little supermarket in town, we drove to the park entrance, paid a few euros to park, and walked down to the lake. Souvenir shops line the roadway from the parking lot to the lake, but the mix of touristy offerings from lederhosen and traditional dresses to faux rock jewelry and lava rock candles was fun to browse on the way to the lakeside. On reaching the lake, we took the path past the boathouses, climbed a hill and eventually skirted the lake until we reached the point with the best view of St Bartholoma, far on a distant shore, made famous by generations of artists. Really, it is a wonderful combination of spectacular natural scenery and lovely quaint architecture. Fortunately, from that distance, we could not see the scaffolding that surrounded the church. Always, on every trip to Europe, there is inevitably one place surrounded by scaffolding. But we accept that maintenance as necessary, in order to preserve the beautiful structures we enjoy so much. So - a positive within a negative.
Sep 16th, 2009, 05:16 PM
#31
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After taking photos of the famous St. Bartholoma view many times over, we continued following the path, which at that point veered up and away from the lake. The path was smooth and well worn for quite a distance, until we reached the marker pointing toward the waterfall, which we had decided would be our destination. At that point, the footing became slippery and uneven, and Steve and I decided that, rather than risking a broken bone, we would head back and wait for Cassie and Matt at the little restaurant/beer garden we had passed on the way up. We settled in on the restaurant patio, with a beautiful view of the lake and the boat dock, ordered a beer and a glass of wine, and settled in, relaxed and content. However, into every life some rain must fall, and suddenly the beautiful day turned dramatically dark, and the rain came down, straight and heavy. We moved our little table under the eaves, and began to worry about Cassie and Matt, who showed up shortly thereafter, soaking wet and but happy. They had found the waterfall, a stunning veil of water tumbling down the mountainside to the lake, and they had it all to themselves. For that moment, it was theirs, and theirs alone, and it was beautiful. When we viewed it the next day from the perspective of the tour boat on the lake, it was certainly spectacular, but I'm sure the best perspective was from the top, not the bottom.
Sep 16th, 2009, 07:10 PM
#32
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You have a wonderful way of not only enjoying all the little things along your way, but also of describing them to us so beautifully! -- thank you for this marvelous view of the parts of Germany you saw.
Waiting for more!
Waiting for more!
Sep 22nd, 2009, 04:48 PM
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Thanks, tocanictraveler, for your kind words!
We planned to take the boat ride on Lake Konigssee the next afternoon, after spending the morning at the Documentation Museum, which was both fascinating and disturbing. The history of the rise of Hitler and the Nazis is outlined with photos and text. Like passing a car accident on the interstate, you are horrified but have to wonder what caused the wreck. So you look. I could only look so long. The photos are profoundly realistic and horrible. I retreated to the outdoor patio and waited for my family.
The Eagle's Nest was a few days away from opening for the season, so we went back to the Gasthaus for lunch. Somehow, we lost track of time, and ended up getting a late start for Lake Konigssee. But after buying our tickets for the boat ride, we didn't have to wait long for the next boat, and were soon on our way up the lake. We shared the boat with a group of German senior citizens on an outing and they were having a great time. The tour boat guide would give a long explanation of the sights, in German, with obviously some hilarious asides, because all the seniors would roar with laughter. The English version he gave next was much shorter, without much humor. Oh well, our fault for not speaking German.
When we landed at St. Bartholoma, where the chapel was still unfortunately wrapped in scaffolding, we immediately started out on a hike to see the "Ice Chapel", which was highly recommended by our hosts, the Springls, in the informational pamphlet they give to guests. The hike took about an hour, through interesting forested areas, passing by a pretty little chapel devoted to a saint whose name I cannot remember. We passed one other hiker on his way back, who told us that the ice chapel did not currently exist. It was either too late or too early (not sure which) for it to form. But it really didn't matter. Suddenly, we emerged from the forest into what seemed like a huge bowl surrounded by mountains. Grey rocks, pink rocks, smoky mists around the mountain tops, and a roaring brook of skimmed milky water, all combined to create a silver and rose colored world that was really breath-taking. I think I gasped. Cassie and Matt reacted by jumping from rock to rock over the stream bed. Steve kept looking up and around. I looked up, too, and suddenly we saw them. A little family of mountain goats, leaping from one precipice to another as if they had wings. Bird-like, they almost seemed to hover on the edges of those very high cliffs. We watched them until they disappeared into the low clouds. Thrilling!
We finally headed back to toward the boat docks, figuring we had plenty of time to spare. Little did we know how close we had come to "missing the boat".
We planned to take the boat ride on Lake Konigssee the next afternoon, after spending the morning at the Documentation Museum, which was both fascinating and disturbing. The history of the rise of Hitler and the Nazis is outlined with photos and text. Like passing a car accident on the interstate, you are horrified but have to wonder what caused the wreck. So you look. I could only look so long. The photos are profoundly realistic and horrible. I retreated to the outdoor patio and waited for my family.
The Eagle's Nest was a few days away from opening for the season, so we went back to the Gasthaus for lunch. Somehow, we lost track of time, and ended up getting a late start for Lake Konigssee. But after buying our tickets for the boat ride, we didn't have to wait long for the next boat, and were soon on our way up the lake. We shared the boat with a group of German senior citizens on an outing and they were having a great time. The tour boat guide would give a long explanation of the sights, in German, with obviously some hilarious asides, because all the seniors would roar with laughter. The English version he gave next was much shorter, without much humor. Oh well, our fault for not speaking German.
When we landed at St. Bartholoma, where the chapel was still unfortunately wrapped in scaffolding, we immediately started out on a hike to see the "Ice Chapel", which was highly recommended by our hosts, the Springls, in the informational pamphlet they give to guests. The hike took about an hour, through interesting forested areas, passing by a pretty little chapel devoted to a saint whose name I cannot remember. We passed one other hiker on his way back, who told us that the ice chapel did not currently exist. It was either too late or too early (not sure which) for it to form. But it really didn't matter. Suddenly, we emerged from the forest into what seemed like a huge bowl surrounded by mountains. Grey rocks, pink rocks, smoky mists around the mountain tops, and a roaring brook of skimmed milky water, all combined to create a silver and rose colored world that was really breath-taking. I think I gasped. Cassie and Matt reacted by jumping from rock to rock over the stream bed. Steve kept looking up and around. I looked up, too, and suddenly we saw them. A little family of mountain goats, leaping from one precipice to another as if they had wings. Bird-like, they almost seemed to hover on the edges of those very high cliffs. We watched them until they disappeared into the low clouds. Thrilling!
We finally headed back to toward the boat docks, figuring we had plenty of time to spare. Little did we know how close we had come to "missing the boat".
Sep 22nd, 2009, 05:37 PM
#34
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I have just scanned your report and will bookmark it for future reading. Having spent 2.5 years in Stuttgart, and still missing Germany terribly after returning to the States 21 months ago, I am loving this!
You are the first I've heard of to ever mention the Technik Musueum in Sinsheim on these pages. I went there with my car designer husband just before we left Stuttgart. It truly is a marvel. (Although I could have done without the scary musty fumes in those old airplanes!)
And the Hotel Auf Schoenburg...ahhhh!!! We stayed in the Falkonsuite and had the fancy 7-course menu on our last trip through Germany. Honestly, I don't think there's a bad room in the place - every one I've read about sounds amazing. I am a castle fanatic, so for me it was a dream come true.
Thanks for the memories, and for all the new ideas about places to visit on our next trip to Deutschland.
You are the first I've heard of to ever mention the Technik Musueum in Sinsheim on these pages. I went there with my car designer husband just before we left Stuttgart. It truly is a marvel. (Although I could have done without the scary musty fumes in those old airplanes!)
And the Hotel Auf Schoenburg...ahhhh!!! We stayed in the Falkonsuite and had the fancy 7-course menu on our last trip through Germany. Honestly, I don't think there's a bad room in the place - every one I've read about sounds amazing. I am a castle fanatic, so for me it was a dream come true.
Thanks for the memories, and for all the new ideas about places to visit on our next trip to Deutschland.
Sep 29th, 2009, 04:37 PM
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Hausfrau, I had forgotten about that smell of stale air in those supersonic planes at the Sinsheim Museum. Part of the eerie atmosphere, I guess. Futuristic aircraft that never made it into the future of air travel, frozen in the moment of takeoff, pass their prime, and mothballed in a museum.
A year or so ago, there was a discussion on Fodors about the best castle hotel options, and the Schoenburg was mentioned again and again. Many others, it seems, agree with you and me that the Hotel Auf Schoenburg is truly special.
A year or so ago, there was a discussion on Fodors about the best castle hotel options, and the Schoenburg was mentioned again and again. Many others, it seems, agree with you and me that the Hotel Auf Schoenburg is truly special.
Sep 29th, 2009, 05:37 PM
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The boat trip on Lake Konigssee we almost missed!
We did not miss the boat, but we came really close. When we approached the landing and dock area at St. Bartholoma, Steve was disappointed to see that the concessions selling smoked fish from the lake were shuttered and closed. He had looked forward to sampling that delicacy. Then we noticed that there were not many people left milling about the area that had been full of happy tourists before we took off on our hike. Looking toward the dock, one solitary boat was bobbing up and down, and as we hurried toward it, the boatman manning the ramp to the door began to impatiently wave to us to hurry up. Cassie and Matt lagged quite a way behind us, and we motioned urgently for them to catch up, as we finally realized that we were very late and in danger of being left behind. We thought that these boats would run much later in the day, but we should have known better. Anyway, all four of us finally clambered onto the boat as the man taking our tickets shook his head in disapproval of our tardiness. This was the last boat from St Bartholoma to Salet, at the far end of the lake, and we were the only passengers. We had paid extra for tickets which would include this route, and had planned to take the short hike from the landing to a famous waterfall not far away. Because it was so late, the boat did not even dock at Salet, but we got our moneys' worth anyway. After their initial displeasure with us, the boat crew softened, and before we knew it, we were experiencing our own private tour on our own private tour boat. The pilot steered the boat in wide loops so that we could view the waterfall from afar. The tour guide tailored his descriptions for his American audience, and answered our questions with good humor. The trumpet player, whose function was to blow his horn in order to create the famous Lake Konigssee echo, not only produced a resounding echo, but treated us to the performance of a tune which he was sure we would recognize. We didn't recognize it, but pretended we did. It was lots of fun and totally unexpected. The boat touched back at the dock at St. Bartholoma, picked up a few stragglers and headed up the lake. Before we knew it we were back at the main docks. A great day, and like so many when we travel, full of surprises.
We did not miss the boat, but we came really close. When we approached the landing and dock area at St. Bartholoma, Steve was disappointed to see that the concessions selling smoked fish from the lake were shuttered and closed. He had looked forward to sampling that delicacy. Then we noticed that there were not many people left milling about the area that had been full of happy tourists before we took off on our hike. Looking toward the dock, one solitary boat was bobbing up and down, and as we hurried toward it, the boatman manning the ramp to the door began to impatiently wave to us to hurry up. Cassie and Matt lagged quite a way behind us, and we motioned urgently for them to catch up, as we finally realized that we were very late and in danger of being left behind. We thought that these boats would run much later in the day, but we should have known better. Anyway, all four of us finally clambered onto the boat as the man taking our tickets shook his head in disapproval of our tardiness. This was the last boat from St Bartholoma to Salet, at the far end of the lake, and we were the only passengers. We had paid extra for tickets which would include this route, and had planned to take the short hike from the landing to a famous waterfall not far away. Because it was so late, the boat did not even dock at Salet, but we got our moneys' worth anyway. After their initial displeasure with us, the boat crew softened, and before we knew it, we were experiencing our own private tour on our own private tour boat. The pilot steered the boat in wide loops so that we could view the waterfall from afar. The tour guide tailored his descriptions for his American audience, and answered our questions with good humor. The trumpet player, whose function was to blow his horn in order to create the famous Lake Konigssee echo, not only produced a resounding echo, but treated us to the performance of a tune which he was sure we would recognize. We didn't recognize it, but pretended we did. It was lots of fun and totally unexpected. The boat touched back at the dock at St. Bartholoma, picked up a few stragglers and headed up the lake. Before we knew it we were back at the main docks. A great day, and like so many when we travel, full of surprises.
Oct 15th, 2009, 05:35 PM
#37
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We planned our last foray into Berchtesgaden National Park on our last day in Germany, the day before Cassie and Matt were scheduled to fly home. It was a brilliantly sunny Sunday, a perfect day to take the gondola ride to the top of Mt. Jenner for the spectacular views of what seemed to us to be countless surrounding alpine peaks. The ride up in the little 2 person gondola took 25 minutes or so, plenty of time to relax and enjoy the views. When we reached the top, we split up to follow separate paths. Our hike was a pleasant meander up to a great lookout point, a craigy point of rock overlooking Lake Konigsee, which seemed to be a small and glittering pond miles below. Cassie and Matt, however, had "loftier" ambitions. Determined to climb an Alp, they headed off toward a distant peak, which we never did figure out the name of, through snow fields and steep inclines. Steve and I settled in on the deck of the mountaintop restaurant and watched their progress with binoculars. Eventually, we could only make out distant moving dots against the white of the snow, and we weren't even sure we were watching the right dots. But we shared the sun drenched deck with German families enjoying a Sunday afternoon outing, with beer and platters of sausage and fries and we were happy to be there. A few of the elderly couples sitting nearby wore Bavarian garb, the men in well worn lederhosen and jaunty hats, and the women in traditional skirts and blouses, with silvery braids wrapped like wreaths around their heads. Energetic and healthy, they also wore expressions that reflected their vigorous lifestyle. In their eighties, they were still capable of hiking steep inclines and enjoying the views from the top.
Cassie and Matt made it to the top of the unnamed mountain, proudly taking pictures next to the cross implanted at the peak. Their last day in Germany and they were close to being on top of the world.
Cassie and Matt made it to the top of the unnamed mountain, proudly taking pictures next to the cross implanted at the peak. Their last day in Germany and they were close to being on top of the world.
Nov 4th, 2009, 04:34 PM
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A significant advantage of staying in the Berchtesgaden area is its proximity to some of Austria's most scenic attractions. I had seen many pictures of Halstatt featured in travel magazines or on the cover of guidebooks, and had always wanted to compare those beautiful photos with reality. As it was an easy drive from our rental apartment, we set a day aside to visit the Halstatt area. Salzburg was another famous place we could easily visit from Berchtesgaden, so we scheduled another day trip into Austria in order to tour Salzburg.
Halstatt was perfectly beautiful, of course. How could it not be? A quaintly picturesque town set on the edge of a mirror-like lake surrounded by alpine mountains couldn't be anything less. After a morning exploring the salt mines (described earlier in this report), we found a convenient parking lot and strolled down to the lake. Looking for lunch, we soon found a little restaurant with a deck next to the water, an ideal spot to stop and relax. Swans drifted by, a tour boat glided from shore to shore, and from across the lake we could hear a band playing traditional music. Perfect, again.
After lunch, we climbed the hill to the church overlooking the town. If you can use a word like charming to describe a cemetery, the graveyard at this church was definitely charming. Each grave was landscaped like a miniature garden, with colorful flowers in perfectly planted patterns and ornamental accents like wrought iron crosses and framed portraits of the deceased set among the flowers. We strolled around, enjoying the peace and quiet, and then headed for the famous crypt of skulls. We paid our fee to enter and found ourselves surrounded by hundreds of hand decorated skulls, arranged in rows around the stone walls of the mausoleum. A reminder of mankind's mortality that was more curious than creepy, but certainly startling and definitely thought-provoking. Did some light-hearted village beauty who graced the streets of Halstatt long ago end up as that skull inscribed with colorful roses? How about the skull with the drawing of a snake curling out of his eye socket? What did he do to deserve that treatment? Our reverie on death and remembrance, however, was cut short when a group of high school students stormed in, followed by their teacher, trying to keep order. Impossible, under the circumstances. Mortality is just scary fun to teenagers, and they were having a ball!
Halstatt was perfectly beautiful, of course. How could it not be? A quaintly picturesque town set on the edge of a mirror-like lake surrounded by alpine mountains couldn't be anything less. After a morning exploring the salt mines (described earlier in this report), we found a convenient parking lot and strolled down to the lake. Looking for lunch, we soon found a little restaurant with a deck next to the water, an ideal spot to stop and relax. Swans drifted by, a tour boat glided from shore to shore, and from across the lake we could hear a band playing traditional music. Perfect, again.
After lunch, we climbed the hill to the church overlooking the town. If you can use a word like charming to describe a cemetery, the graveyard at this church was definitely charming. Each grave was landscaped like a miniature garden, with colorful flowers in perfectly planted patterns and ornamental accents like wrought iron crosses and framed portraits of the deceased set among the flowers. We strolled around, enjoying the peace and quiet, and then headed for the famous crypt of skulls. We paid our fee to enter and found ourselves surrounded by hundreds of hand decorated skulls, arranged in rows around the stone walls of the mausoleum. A reminder of mankind's mortality that was more curious than creepy, but certainly startling and definitely thought-provoking. Did some light-hearted village beauty who graced the streets of Halstatt long ago end up as that skull inscribed with colorful roses? How about the skull with the drawing of a snake curling out of his eye socket? What did he do to deserve that treatment? Our reverie on death and remembrance, however, was cut short when a group of high school students stormed in, followed by their teacher, trying to keep order. Impossible, under the circumstances. Mortality is just scary fun to teenagers, and they were having a ball!
Nov 6th, 2009, 04:43 PM
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Our daytrip to Salzburg was another highpoint of our stay in Berchtesgaden. Years ago, Steve and I had stopped there briefly on our way to somewhere else. We were glad, this time, to have the chance to spend more time exploring what we remembered to be a beautiful city.
Researching the area, Matt had found good reviews describing a ropes course center located right outside Salzburg. He and Cassie decided to tackle it, so we dropped them off and headed into the city. Parking proved to be a challenge, but we eventually ended up in an underground parking garage within walking distance of the city center. It was Saturday and a festival atmosphere greeted us as soon as we entered the city. Music everywhere! Live entertainment venues were set up on street corners and in city squares. After wandering around for awhile, we found a free table outside an old and venerable-looking coffee house. We enjoyed coffee and a pastry, and a great musical performance by a group of musicians set up in the square in front of us. The star performer was a boy of about 12 years old and he was amazing. We could have stayed and listened for quite awhile, but it started to drizzle and we were getting wet, so we moved on.
After picking Cassie and Matt up at the ropes course (and watching their last maneuvers through the trees high above us) we returned to Salzburg and had lunch at another old and atmospheric place, which unfortunately I can't remember the name of. The food was good and the people watching was better, as this seemed to be a place frequented by locals. One elderly, well-dressed and proper-looking couple came in with their small dog, who sat obediently under the table until he was startled by two noisy children passing by. He might have been a small dog but he had a huge bark. The elderly couple glared, not at the dog, but at the children who had disturbed his peace.
After lunch, we spent a few hours wandering the streets, looking through the shops and enjoying the atmosphere of this special city. We walked up to the castle, but decided we didn't need to go inside. On the way down the hill, we paused to look at the watercolors of an artist who seemed to capture the beauty of Salzburg just as we were experiencing it. We bought two, one for ourselves and one for Cassie and Matt. Perfect souvenirs.
Researching the area, Matt had found good reviews describing a ropes course center located right outside Salzburg. He and Cassie decided to tackle it, so we dropped them off and headed into the city. Parking proved to be a challenge, but we eventually ended up in an underground parking garage within walking distance of the city center. It was Saturday and a festival atmosphere greeted us as soon as we entered the city. Music everywhere! Live entertainment venues were set up on street corners and in city squares. After wandering around for awhile, we found a free table outside an old and venerable-looking coffee house. We enjoyed coffee and a pastry, and a great musical performance by a group of musicians set up in the square in front of us. The star performer was a boy of about 12 years old and he was amazing. We could have stayed and listened for quite awhile, but it started to drizzle and we were getting wet, so we moved on.
After picking Cassie and Matt up at the ropes course (and watching their last maneuvers through the trees high above us) we returned to Salzburg and had lunch at another old and atmospheric place, which unfortunately I can't remember the name of. The food was good and the people watching was better, as this seemed to be a place frequented by locals. One elderly, well-dressed and proper-looking couple came in with their small dog, who sat obediently under the table until he was startled by two noisy children passing by. He might have been a small dog but he had a huge bark. The elderly couple glared, not at the dog, but at the children who had disturbed his peace.
After lunch, we spent a few hours wandering the streets, looking through the shops and enjoying the atmosphere of this special city. We walked up to the castle, but decided we didn't need to go inside. On the way down the hill, we paused to look at the watercolors of an artist who seemed to capture the beauty of Salzburg just as we were experiencing it. We bought two, one for ourselves and one for Cassie and Matt. Perfect souvenirs.
Nov 10th, 2009, 05:14 PM
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Leaving the Alps - On to the Adriatic
After 10 great days together in Germany, Cassie & Matt were heading home and Steve and I were traveling on to Slovenia and Croatia.
We parted ways at the Munich airport. It was hard to say goodbye, but after hugs and promises to call, Cassie and Matt disappeared into the crowd and we headed off to catch the train from the airport into the city's main station. From there, we had reservations to Salzburg then on to Villach, where we would change trains and head to Ljubljana.
At some point during a European vacation, we always schedule a train trip. It is a great way to cover a lot of distance without a lot of stress. Steve can relax and enjoy the scenery and I don't have to worry about reading a map. And although we are not traveling on the Orient Express, it always feels romantic and adventurous to pull away from a grand old rail station on our way to somewhere else we've never been before. This trip, from Salzburg to Villach, was one of the best trips by train we've experienced. We settled back into really comfortable seats in a modern, very clean and polished, rail car, which we practically had to ourselves. And almost as soon as we left the station in Salzburg, lovely scenery began to unreel before us. Mountains, rivers, lakes, pretty towns, the occasional castle, and waterfalls, all came into view and then disappeared behind us. The book I brought to read remained unopened on my lap. I really couldn't take my eyes away from the window and the beautiful sights we were passing by.
Our incredible journey ended abruptly in Villach, where we were supposed to change trains for the last leg of the journey to Ljubljana. We waited for our next train on the designated platform, but began to get uneasy when there seemed to be little activity and even less information about the connection to Ljubljana. Finally, Steve peered into a dimly lit screen on the edge of the waiting area and made out the word "bus" next to destination Ljubljana. Sure enough, problems with the track somewhere along the way had resulted in the cancellation of the train. A bus connection had been substituted. We made a mad dash to the curb outside the station, where the bus was loading. We joined the queue, climbed onto the bus, and headed out of town. We hoped we would eventually make it to Ljubljana, but we weren't really sure where this bus was taking us. It was stifling hot, and one of the passengers asked if the air conditioning could be turned on. The driver shrugged, and another man opened a sort of sun roof in the ceiling, which did little to cool anyone off. The bus climbed narrow little side roads and wheeled through the narrow winding streets of a few small towns, swaying like a ship on high seas. This was beginning to feel like the trip from hell, when miraculously the bus pulled up to a tiny train station in the middle of nowhere, and before we knew it, we were boarding a train bound for Ljubljana. We arrived in Ljubljana two hours late, after a day of ups and downs. But the "downs" were soon forgotten as we were warmly greeted at the Slamic B&B and began looking forward to exploring this lovely city.
After 10 great days together in Germany, Cassie & Matt were heading home and Steve and I were traveling on to Slovenia and Croatia.
We parted ways at the Munich airport. It was hard to say goodbye, but after hugs and promises to call, Cassie and Matt disappeared into the crowd and we headed off to catch the train from the airport into the city's main station. From there, we had reservations to Salzburg then on to Villach, where we would change trains and head to Ljubljana.
At some point during a European vacation, we always schedule a train trip. It is a great way to cover a lot of distance without a lot of stress. Steve can relax and enjoy the scenery and I don't have to worry about reading a map. And although we are not traveling on the Orient Express, it always feels romantic and adventurous to pull away from a grand old rail station on our way to somewhere else we've never been before. This trip, from Salzburg to Villach, was one of the best trips by train we've experienced. We settled back into really comfortable seats in a modern, very clean and polished, rail car, which we practically had to ourselves. And almost as soon as we left the station in Salzburg, lovely scenery began to unreel before us. Mountains, rivers, lakes, pretty towns, the occasional castle, and waterfalls, all came into view and then disappeared behind us. The book I brought to read remained unopened on my lap. I really couldn't take my eyes away from the window and the beautiful sights we were passing by.
Our incredible journey ended abruptly in Villach, where we were supposed to change trains for the last leg of the journey to Ljubljana. We waited for our next train on the designated platform, but began to get uneasy when there seemed to be little activity and even less information about the connection to Ljubljana. Finally, Steve peered into a dimly lit screen on the edge of the waiting area and made out the word "bus" next to destination Ljubljana. Sure enough, problems with the track somewhere along the way had resulted in the cancellation of the train. A bus connection had been substituted. We made a mad dash to the curb outside the station, where the bus was loading. We joined the queue, climbed onto the bus, and headed out of town. We hoped we would eventually make it to Ljubljana, but we weren't really sure where this bus was taking us. It was stifling hot, and one of the passengers asked if the air conditioning could be turned on. The driver shrugged, and another man opened a sort of sun roof in the ceiling, which did little to cool anyone off. The bus climbed narrow little side roads and wheeled through the narrow winding streets of a few small towns, swaying like a ship on high seas. This was beginning to feel like the trip from hell, when miraculously the bus pulled up to a tiny train station in the middle of nowhere, and before we knew it, we were boarding a train bound for Ljubljana. We arrived in Ljubljana two hours late, after a day of ups and downs. But the "downs" were soon forgotten as we were warmly greeted at the Slamic B&B and began looking forward to exploring this lovely city.
