franco

jgliu, your question comes as an illustration to what I said just one posting above yours: the modern, run-down surroundings of Piazzale Roma... there is hardly a "less Venetian" location all over Venice; and Rio Terrà dei Pensieri (where the Locanda seems to be found) is famous for just one thing: as the address of the Venice jail. No, of the Locanda itself, I've never heard. Yes, it's handy to the airport bus; but that's certainly that location's single advantage.

ventdest

Hi Franco, just a quick note to say thanks, I really appreciate the advice! I will keep on following this thread closely

galelstorm

annhig-You are so gracious to answer my questions. Thank you. Being a first timer it is nice to have sound advice. And yours is just that. I relish your experiences and have read your post about Venice. I Must say I got a good chuckle out of your writings!
franco-if we can't keep our sense of humor about us what then? If I ride the vaporetto into town and drop the luggage I am doing great as long as I don't drop myself into the water! I am very much into the walking aspect of Venice and I don't care if I'm moving in circles and get lost in some lovely neighborhood, I'M IN VENICE! Thank you so much for your reply and knowledge.
We settled on a place (don't cringe)that is very near Piazza San Marco. This is the link:
http://www.cortecampana.com/
For my traveling companions, who do not walk nearly as much as I do this is a perfect location. This way we can venture out both morning and afternoon to all of the places I want to see then late at night come back through the piazza, enjoy ourselves, and be close to home base.

macdogmom

Sorry, if you have already written about these apartments, but I couldn't find them in the above thread.

http://www.cortetiepolo.com/eng/appart.php

Here is website. We have never been to Venice, don't really need a full kitchen--just a refrig. for fruit, cheese and wine--and we love to walk, walk, walk to get a flavor of a city. So just wondering about this neighborhood and wanted to make sure it is a good choice for first time visitors.

franco

macdogmom, as usual, I can only comment on the location (since I don't know those apartments). And it's a very very nice neighbourhood. Actually, a favourite of mine. One of those strange locations typical of Venice where you are so close to the bustle of town, and yet in a completely tranquil position since there is that corner a few steps before your door, a corner no tourist ever seems to turn around. (Quite similar, in this respect, to the place where I usually stay.) Of course, being on the S. Polo side of the Canal Grande, you'll have to take the vaporetto more frequently (the majority of sights is on the S. Marco side, and bridges over the Canal Grande are too few to always walk). But don't forget the possibility of taking a traghetto instead! (traghetto explanation: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34791890, postings of 08/02 and 08/21, 2006)

franco

...and galelstorm: there's no reason at all to cringe at your choice, on the contrary. This choice is just excellent (always speaking of location, mind you) - merely 30 metres from the apartment I've so often described here as my favourite. (If you're walking towards S. Marco from your hotel, the first building after the bridge, that's where the Rosa di Venezia apartment is located.) Another location like what I've described five minutes ago: close to the bustling life and yet quiet.

Btw, Ann: I completely agree that it's worth exploring the neighbourhood north of Lista di Spagna, towards S. Giobbe and the former slaughterhouse. A completely unknown part of Venice that gets to see hardly ever any tourist (another of those Venetian mysteries: the touristy overkill on Lista di Spagna, and total calmness in the side alleys). But of course, you can explore it without having your accomodation there. Did you detect the public garden opposite S. Geremia? A narrow side lane of Lista di Spagna, and you find yourself in a large public garden, where you'd meet ONLY locals. I'm sure there's no more than one tourist per week who finds this place. A mere 100 metres from one of the most overrun and tourism-ridden places in town...

Peter_S_Aus

We (my wife and I) have just returned from nine weeks in Venice (we did not leave Venice at all in that time, except for a three day trip to Rome, plus the lagoon islands).
We stayed in Dorsoduro, near San Barnaba / Campo Margherita. It takes 15 minutes or less to walk to San Marco via Academe, and about ten minutes from there to Rialto. Allow half an hour walking to get to the far eastern parts of Castello. In summer it would take longer because of the crowds.
If flying in, take the ferry from Marco Polo to Venice. Sure, a cab is quicker, but arriving at San Marco by water is magical. From San Marco, take a vaporretto up the Grand Canal to your nearest waterbus stop – otherwise there’s lots of bridges to carry your luggage over. (We walked from San Marco to San Barnaba, and it was very hard work – particularly the Academe bridge).
I’d avoid the Fondamenta Nuove – it is a long way from the action.

annhig

hi galestorm,

I was half afraid to post that I thoguht your B&B location was a good one in case Franco told me I was wrong! [only joking, franco]. but I'm pleased that we agree about something. you are so close to all the action yet very few tourists will penetrate your little calle. AND you are very conveniently placed for the alilaguna to San Marco.

Franco - I'm sorry that despite my wanderings, i never found "your" gardens so I have not yet qualified as your one tourist a week. I looked on my map - is it the parco Savorgnan? an excuse for returning, I hope.

regards, ann

franco

Ann, and I thought we agree about most things Venetian; after all, you've so perfectly (and graciously) substituted me on this thread while I was absent! I absolutely regarded our different opinions on staying on Lista di Spagna as an exception! As far as the name of that garden, honestly, I've no idea. At S. Geremia, Lista di Spagna broadens to form a square; and on the side opposite the church, there are two (I think) side alleys, the left of which directly leads to that park.

Peter_S_Aus

The garden in question also opens to the Fondamenta Venier, connected by a path. There are heaps of cats, more or less feral, that have made their home along the path in niches in the adjacent building. Someone is feeding them.
Interesting comment by Franco re Piazzale Roma being "less Venetian". All of Venice is Venetian, I'd have thought. Sure, you might not care to stay at a B&B in Rio Terra Pensieri (excuse spelling, and I dont have a map) but right over the way the big house is full of real Venetians. Might not be too beautiful, but it is certainly real.

Peter_S_Aus

Here's a place that works pretty well. It's in Dorsoduro.
http://realvenicevacationflats.com/
The second floor apartment is good for two adults, would be tight for three or four.
The kitchen works well - we've cooked about 50 meals in it - and it is well equipped (pressure cooker for making chicken stock, some brand new pans courtesy of us).
The owner is in the USA, and payment was made in USD. She was a delight to deal with.
Keys were mailed to us in Australia, and on arrival in Venice we located the apartment very easily.
The street floods if acqua alta is greater than about 100 cm or so, and there are rubber boots supplied - the whole acqua alta thing presents no real problems.
There are a couple of supermarkets close by, and a shopping trolley to use.

annhig

franco, you are toooo kind. your description of the park exactly fits the one I have found on the map. I did explore that area in what I thought was a thorough fashion, but obviously not thoroughly enough. one of the snags of sharing with a friend, however close, is that habits do not necessarily co-incide - being an early riser I would go out before breakfast and explore the streets as Venice came alive. that way i found the fish market along the side of the ponte Guglie, the fruit market over the other side of the bridge, the little shop selling slippers and wellington boots to the locals [and me!].

I'm not sure that I would stay in that area again, but for a few days it wasn't too bad. however, I agree with you to the extent that were I to visit Venice only once in my life, it would not be the perfect choice!

regards, ann

eurosmilepc

Hi Franco,
Thank you for your help in choosing a Rome apartment. Now I have a question about a Venice apartment.

Appartamento La Mia Casa a Venezia
Cannaregio 2399 - Venezia. http://www.vrbo.com/115338

Is this a good choice? Thanks again.

Michele30

Just bookmarking, thank you so much for your threads

bjtravel

Hi Marianna,
I just read you post about Al Ponte Mociengo. I was about to go and reserve a room in their Annex, but just read that it is far away from the attractions(San Marco). Can you tell me how long a walk is it and should I go for it? I will travelling with a 4 year old!
I have also shortlisted Residenza Ca' San Marco. Do you know anything about that one?
Thanks!

Peter_S_Aus

A four year old in Venice is going to get pretty tired – there’s so much walking – and the afternoon nap, or just time out to get out the crayons and paper and do some drawings will be important. Kids get grumpy when they are exhausted.

Have you considered an apartment, which gives space and normality, a kitchen to fool around in, space to cook, assemble a picnic, whatever. There's a washing machine, which might be handy.

The place I’m recommending is five minutes walk from Academe, five minutes to the Ca’ Rezzonico, and the location is friendly. Might be worth a look. Ten minutes to San Marco, three minutes to a supermarket, which is fun for kids.

We stayed there for eight weeks.
http://realvenicevacationflats.com/

bjtravel

Thanks - I am putting an availability request for that apt

susanboston

Dear Franco: Thank you so much for your helpful and thoughtful posts! I am visiting Venice in April 2009 (first Venice visit), I have booked an apartment called "San Samuele/Palazzo Grassi"...I used sleepinitaly to book because they have always been so wonderful for our Rome bookings...we are trying to stay on a budget, and this apartment is only 130Euro per night. Could you prepare me for the area? The address is San Marco 3188/A - Salizada Malipiero, we are to use water bus stop of Sant Angelo... I am traveling with my 18 year old and my 5 year old. Thanks. - s

franco

Ok, I'm finally trying to overcome my shock about the new forum layout... I'll work off my backlog post by post.

Peter, you have actually qualified as my "one tourist per week"... which is to say that yes, that's the garden I was talking about. As far as "all things in Venice are Venetian", let's not split hairs. I guess everybody understands what I was meaning to say. And as for your assumption that the "big house" of Rio Terà dei Pensieri be "full of Venetians", that's a misapprehension - not many Venetians in there! It's the central jail for the whole Veneto region, and most "inhabitants" are being brought in from outside town (Venice is not big on crime, on the contrary)...

eurosmile, how much time are going to stay in Venice? And how well do you know the city? If it's a short visit, and you don't know it well, I don't think the choice is perfect. If you have time enough, or are already acquainted with Venice, it's a nice choice. The area is fine, "real" Venice, not for the tourists, except for the area's mainfare, Strada Nova, the gash this part of Venice was suffering in the 19th century and that's always packed with tourists (and others). It's pretty distant from most parts of town, though, and will involve some hiking back and forth.

Same goes for Al Ponte Mocenigo, bj. But also the apartment you, Peter, are recommending already twice on this thread is not what I would choose with a 4-year old. Indeed, Venice is exhausting, but 10 minutes to S. Marco from Calle S. Barnaba, excuse me? This seems more than just a bit like advertising, sorry; and with a 4-year old child, it's just unthinkable to get there in 10 minutes. Make that 25, with a child of this age. bj, if you have a look at the apartment I was recommending in my initial post on this thread, that's what I'm calling a central location. Two minutes from S. Marco, but really two.

susanboston, that's one of my favourite neighbourhoods. Incredibly beautiful, unspoiled, elegant, wealthy. Not at all touristy. There's just one disadvantage: as far as every-day shopping (food!, if you perhaps want to cook your own meals), there's not much to speak of around there. It's easier to buy a splendid baroque sideboard there than a role of toilet paper. And don't fail to have breakfast on Campo S. Stefano - a gorgeous place to go to the bar.

franco

...ah, and one more thing, susan: S. Samuele waterstop is of course much nearer to your apartment than S. Angelo! Attention, no boats landing at S. Samuele during the afternoon; just in the morning and at night.