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Old Dec 30th, 2009, 12:36 PM
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France (maybe UK) / Walking Vacation Question

Hi, First time posting! I'm interested on finding information that could help my wife and I plan a vacation where we walked between towns (i guess an middle-age persons version of backpacking). Basically a trip where we could walk for the day to a new town (or 2) and just find a room for the night in the town we stop at. not looking for fancy lodgings (nor hostels). Ideally looking for a 7 day time-span in the french country, probably in the spring. We're not hikers, but would like to limit train, car, or bike travel. Any suggestions/direction would be appreciated! Thanks. Also open to places in the UK/Wales/etc.
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Old Dec 30th, 2009, 12:43 PM
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I would head straight for the Dordogne, where there's a nice assortment of Grandes Randonnees trails through gorgeous countryside.

http://www.gr-infos.com/gr-en.htm
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Old Dec 30th, 2009, 08:31 PM
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Iy's not entirely clear what distinction you're making between "hiking" and the sort of trip you have in mind. There are loads of companies large and small offering packages of accommodation, guidebooks and baggage transfer in both countries (and others in Europe and elsewhere). Unfortunately I'm away from my bookmarks at the moment so can't list links here, but some names that come to mind, mainly for the UK, are Contours, Exodus, Mickledore, Ramblers Association, Holiday Fellowship. Search for those and you should also turn up quite a range of other links.
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Old Dec 30th, 2009, 10:23 PM
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A few sites which may be useful -

http://www.hfholidays.co.uk/

http://www.randonneetours.com/

http://www.atg-oxford.co.uk/

http://www.intrepidtravel.com/

http://www.utracks.com/utau/index.php

and a lot of info here -
http://www.slowtrav.com/france/hiking/luberon.htm
by Kathy Wood

the latter's own walks outfit -

http://www.luberonexperience.com/index.htm
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 12:42 AM
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And this has many links, if dated -

http://www.franceonfoot.com/up-index.htm

Another operator -

http://www.inntravel.co.uk/

If you're really keen -

http://www.era-ewv-ferp.org/index.php?page_id=29

http://www.walkingenglishman.com/
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 01:03 AM
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These people run walking tours in the Cevennes : http://www.silvergreen.co.uk

Not ***** but not backpacking + hostel either.
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 03:54 AM
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Hello Rickgusto,
I can relate my one-off experience some 10 years ago with a dynamic "walkers" organization called THE WAYFARERS.
It was the most wonderful experience - you didn't have to be extremely fit or anything!
It lasted 7 days, started on a Sunday and ended the following Saturday. All accommodation was fabulous, the meals memorable and the Walk Leaders extremely organised.

I chose the walk titled "The Loire - River of Kings" and went on their September walk. (Only 3 per year) Other walks included:
Lorna Doone's Somerset Secrets
Cornwall - Creeks and Coves
Derbyshire Dales
A Cotswold Way
Devonshire - Down to the Sea
The Best of the Coast to Coast
James Herriot's Yorkshire
Wordsworth's Lake District
Underscar Manor, Lake District
Gardens of Dorset - A gentle country walk
Wales - Border Castles & Rivers
Scottish Borders and Holy Island - In the
footsteps of St Cuthbert
Ireland - Ring of Kerry
Ireland - The Burren and Aran Islands
The Loire - River of Kings
Cezanne's Provence
The Dordogne - A rural Idyll
Burgundy - Villages & Vineyards
Tuscany - Garden of Italy
Switzerland - An Alpine Wonderland

All luggage is handled by the tour. You are encouraged to carry a small 'moonbag' or purse on the walk. Water bottle if you like but this is not necessary as you are met during the morning and afternoon walk for a picnic tea with refreshments and eats. Usually under a large tree in the forest. People you walked with were a mix of doctors, engineers, shopkeepers, housewives, and made for a nice interesting bunch!

The contact I had was: www.thewayfarers,com

Since then the organisers have included many other countries.
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 03:59 AM
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Sorry, I see that link didn't work so well. Try this:
http://www.thewayfarers.com/
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 04:05 AM
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Sherpa (a UK-based outfit) organizes self-guided tours in a number of countries, including France and the UK. The provide the itinerary and maps, book the hotels en route and move your luggage from location to location. You walk at your own pace from day to day. Mr frogoutofwater and I did a well-organized tour in Morocco with them.

The French company Balaguere also organizes self-guided trips in probably a wider range of locations in France. The specialize in the Pyrenees, where they're based. The only challenge would be that their trip notes will be in French - which could be a fun challenge or scary, depending on how good your French is. I've never asked them, but it's possible that they could prepare notes in English for you. I've never booked with them, but my friends have, and said they enjoyed the several trips they did. My recollection is that their prices are quite reasonable.
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 04:17 AM
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I found Headwater was a good company to do this sort of thing.
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 04:22 AM
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There's absolutely no need to use a company for this if you're happy to carry your own backpack.

You can spend a thousand pounds or more with someone like ATG, whose best packages put you up in a Relais et Chateaux place most nights, with Michelin-standard dinners, cook barbecue-style lunches with wine in carefully selected midway beauty spots every day, and have a separate, full-time, guide to describe the historical, artistic and ecological background to each day's 15 miles as well as a tour manager who ensures the lunchtime wine, cheese and local specialities are up to scratch and local (except in England, what's the point of serious walking somewhere that doesn't have decent vineyards and at least three typique cheeses?) when he's not taking your bag from hotel to hotel (and generally leaving it in your room).

Or you can stuff a couple of Ordnance Survey maps in your pocket, chuck your things in a backpack, follow the footpaths for 15 miles (stopping at a pub for lunch) then stay at a B&B wherever you land up.

In England, especially, the 120,000 miles of footpath all link up (France's GR's often - though some routes can avoid this - require dismal stretches on busy roads for a couple of kms), and are never more than a mile or two from a village, with pubs, B&Bs and (usually) a convenience store with at least bread and cheese.

Between England and France, the arguments come down to better food and drink (and generally cheaper acommodation)in France and denser, more walker-friendly, paths and maps in England: in autumn and spring, the weather argument's pretty finely balanced for walkers, though things can get uncomfortable too far south in France too late in spring.

If you don't want to pay a third party, the links above give loads of ideas for overall route-planning. Then just acquire the right maps
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 06:51 AM
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I agree there's no need to engage a company at what is always a very high price to show you how to walk, unless of course you want star-studded meals and accommodations at the end of the day and someone to haul your bags for you. Your original post made it sound as though you were happy to do your own hauling and weren't looking for high-end accommodations.

The Grande Randonnées trails, for which I gave you the link, are very well marked. There is no chance of not ending up somewhere where you can't find good food and a comfortable bed, the scenery is lovely, and the maps are excellent.
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 10:55 AM
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WOW! Thanks you all for the responses so far. Lots of great ideas/directions. Sounds like it's more possible than we initially thought. Love the non-guided ideas btw. To the question about how i was defining "hiking", i guess i mean that our goal is to just walk at a slow pace together on roads or clear paths. not looking to hike on challenging/hidden paths, rocks, etc.. Just bounce (haha) from town to town on foot, carrying very little, and stay where we end up...and be within range of other towns so we can repeat said goal a few times in a weeks time or so. Thanks again. Pls keep the comments/ideas/suggestions coming; they're very very helpful!
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 11:04 AM
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Check out the trip reports from Fodorite lizcakes:

http://www.fodors.com/community/profile/lizcakes/
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 11:34 AM
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FlannerUK and StCirq: You make it sound as if the only type of self-guided tour is a luxury, structured and coddled to the nth degree option. While those options exist for those who want them (and I wouldn't look down on anyone who chose to travel that way), there also are budget and moderately priced self-guided tour options that reduce some of the hassle factor associated with a walking trip without breaking one's budget. That kind of a trip could suit a lot of people who like to walk and explore but who a) don't (or can't carry) a pack with all their gear, b) would like some suggestions about itineraries / walking times, and c) prefer not to deal with the hassle of booking rooms. It's a vacation, after all.
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 04:36 PM
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Our family has done a lot of hiking (walking) in Europe, including seven self-guided tours (3 in France; 2 in England, 1 in Ireland, and 1 in Switzerland). Our trips have ranged from a week to 2-1/2 weeks. Yes, it's possible to plan your own trip, but I would not undertake a village-to-village walk in England or France without reservations. Some villages have only a few choices of accommodations and it would be terrible to arrive in late afternoon and find there was nothing available.

We have found the self-guided trips an easy and economical way to enjoy a walking vacation. The routes are planned and maps/supplemental instructions provided. Accommodations are selected and booked for you-- no research required and you just pay one provider. On some trips half-board (breakfast and dinner) is included. Our trips have always included other travel in Europe. Although we travel with just one suitcase/duffle bag and carryon bag, we aren't backpackers. We need the luggage transfer that's provided.

There are a variety of providers for self-guided trips. We have used Sherpa, Cotswolds Walking Holidays, and a company in France www.sentiersdefrance.com. Our last two walks (the Stevenson walk in the Cevennes of France and two weeks this past summer in the Dordogne and Lot) were arranged through Sentiers de France. They offer two levels of accommodations, and the 2* option that we took was extremely economical.

Another approach for a walking holiday is to stay in one location, rent a small car, and do day hikes from your base. You might be able to do a few hikes from your base village, but a car would enable you to enjoy circular walks in a broader area. There are a number of guidebooks available for great hiking areas that detail circular walks. Some of these books are available in English for areas in France.

Our family has enjoyed the sense of a journey, however, and the sense of accomplishment from completing a major walk. We've especially enjoyed the longer walks (Coast-to-Coast in England, Alpine Pass in Switzerland, and the Stevenson walk in France) and the camaraderie with other walkers that we've met along the way.

Kathy
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Old Dec 31st, 2009, 07:40 PM
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The responses bring up a good pt/question: how risky is it do a village to village walking "tour" without room reservations? lets say we did the trip in early November in the Dordogne area. what are the odds of us not finding something without reservations? not looking for 3-5 star accommodations. Thx!
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Old Jan 1st, 2010, 04:17 AM
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rickgusto you ask a specific question which I cannot help with however I've biked all over France and never made a reservation. But that is on a bike where if the place you want is full or closed then you just ride on. Walking is more restrictive. I generally use google in the map section, find the area I want to visit and then search for B&B or hotel. This shows all the options. That at least offers you an idea of the density of accomodation before you plan the route.

Note that November may be a time that accomodation closes down for the winter.
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Old Jan 1st, 2010, 09:25 AM
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I sure wouldn't pick November to go hiking anywhere in France. I thought this trip was scheduled for spring. A lot of hotels and B&Bs in the Dordogne (and elsewhere in France) close down between mid-October and Easter weekend, so that could limit your chances of finding accommodations. In spring, you could probably quite safely assume you could find a place to stay, because there are loads of villages not far from each other and all are well equipped to handle lots of tourists. That said, I would always want to know where I was going to spend the night, so I'd make reservations in advance or at least carry the Michelin Guide or some other book with me so I could call before mid-day to arrange something.
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Old Jan 1st, 2010, 02:11 PM
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We've hiked in Provence in the winter months (further south than the Dordogne), but we were living there at the time and we could decide each day whether to go or not. Some days were brilliantly sunny and we even hiked in t-shirts in early afternoon in January, but other days we wore coats, hats and gloves the entire time. In 2007 we went over for two weeks in March, mainly to hike, and the weather was variable. But accommodations in many villages would be very limited. I'd only recommend a walking-oriented vacation in southern France in November/December/January/February/March if you were renting a house or staying in one place and doing circular day hikes. And even then, I wouldn't recommend it for inexperienced walkers in Europe. The UK-- definitely not at that time of year.

We did a two week walk in the Dordogne/Lot this summer in late June/early July, from Montignac to Bretenoux, about 140 miles. (It was too hot in the Lot at that time this year-- I think for southern France, May, early June, September, early October would be ideal.) Because we were on a self-guided walk, we were always headed toward a specific destination. Some places have several accommodation choices, but not always. Again, I would definitely have reservations and a plan for your walk. You can buy IGN maps online.

For the Dordogne, one possibility would be to stay in Sarlat or some other centrally-located village and do circular day hikes from there. You would want to have a car so that you weren't limited to hikes that started and ended at that one place. The advantage of that is that approach is that you'll also get to spend a week sampling life in a French town/village.

Kathy
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