France March 05-The Broken Toe Tour!
Apr 18th, 2005, 11:06 AM
#21
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 24,293
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What wonderful meals you had! I'm saving the descriptions/restaurant names for Next Year in Provence.
If you think the Relais St-Germain is better than the Madison, we might give that a try. But I've heard that the Bourgogne et Montana is now under the same management as the Madison but is less expensive and in a very nice area. So...
Where and what did the car hit? Our one experience with a problem was when a car careened madly down the side of a mountain in the Lubéron and caught the driver's-side mirror of our car. Good thing we were going fairly slowly or we might have gone over the edge.
If you think the Relais St-Germain is better than the Madison, we might give that a try. But I've heard that the Bourgogne et Montana is now under the same management as the Madison but is less expensive and in a very nice area. So...
Where and what did the car hit? Our one experience with a problem was when a car careened madly down the side of a mountain in the Lubéron and caught the driver's-side mirror of our car. Good thing we were going fairly slowly or we might have gone over the edge.
Apr 18th, 2005, 02:16 PM
#23
Hi AGM, you are making me seriously reconsider my usual dining strategies and think about eating in some (OK, maybe just one or two) more expensive restaurants the next time I go to France. Usually we stick to moderate places (a term I will continue to use despite the lack of respect it receives on Fodor's). But you make your meals sound absolutely wonderful.
Now I am curious what places you like on Cape Cod, where I am enjoying the sunshine today, salivating over your trip report.
Now I am curious what places you like on Cape Cod, where I am enjoying the sunshine today, salivating over your trip report.
Apr 18th, 2005, 05:05 PM
#24
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mimi, I was thinking of you when we saw a wine called Cigale Chant at Lavinia in Paris. Please do go to the L'Oustalet Maianen when you are in Maillane. It was very good. My husband thought I was crazy to be schlepping the ice packs but he changed his tune.
Underhill-You know those cement planters the look so pretty filled with flowers? Well, Tomas parked next to one and didn't realize it was there. He scrapped the passenger's side of the car.
Underhill-You know those cement planters the look so pretty filled with flowers? Well, Tomas parked next to one and didn't realize it was there. He scrapped the passenger's side of the car.
Apr 18th, 2005, 05:07 PM
#25
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nikki, I haven't even gotten to the best part-Paris!! Anyway where are you on the Cape? Our favorite place is in Chatham-Vining's Bistro. It is on the second floor across the driveway from the Christian Science Reading Room. Let me know where you are and what you like.
Apr 20th, 2005, 04:21 PM
#27
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vin sur Vin- Dinner This was the best restaurant of the trip. It is a 7 table restaurant in the 7th arrondissment. I don’t think it is a place for everyone as it requires a certain enthusiasm and interaction with the owners who wait on the tables. Each table is decorated differently and the room has all sorts of unusual items on display-ceramics etc. You can tell that this is the personal expression of the owners. The food was exceptional. The amuse bouche was a small dish of a vegetable ratatouille which was very nice and different Then we had an Asparagus soup with morel cream. The soup came in a small bowl with a layer of asparagus puree with slices of asparagus then on top there was a layer of morel cream. We were instructed to dip the soup so that you got a taste of each layer in every bite. Why don’t the asparagus here taste like those? And the morels… heaven!! The other starter was a rabbit and foie gras terrine-the rabbit was wrapped around the foie gras. Very yummy! With that we had a fabulous Alsatian Grand Cru Riesling-Clos Saint Imer La Chapelle Riesling Goldert 2000. This I know because we had them soak the label off which we never do but it was an extraordinary wine. For one of our main courses we had the house special which was a chicken which was stuffed with a forcemeat of liver and other yummy things with a variation of a Supreme Sauce. I could have eaten the sauce with a spoon alone. The other dish was a pigeon which to tell you the truth I don’t remember that well. I gave the menu and my notes to my folks and haven’t gotten them back yet. It was good but paled before the chicken. We had a Comtes Lafon Volnay Santenots 1997 with that. Leave room for dessert. We had an excellent chocolate soufflé-hot, rich and melt in your mouth dark chocolate. The other dessert was an Orange Tart with Clementine Sorbet. Of course this kind of perfection and attention to detail comes with a price. The total was 439 € which was worth every centime. By the time I left I felt that we had been the personal guests of the house. The patrons came and shook our hands and thanked us as we left and they ushered us into our cab. This will be on our restaurant list for our next trip to Paris. One small side note-if you are a photographer take your camera. Vin sur Vin is at 20, rue de Monttessuy. When you turn onto the rue there is the Tour Eiffel in all its glory. If the night is clear as it was with us it is a beautiful site. Tomas regretted that he hadn’t brought his camera and even made us go back another night. I sat on a park bench for 20 minutes while he tried to get ‘the perfect shot’. I think it was easier before digital cameras. You tried your best and moved on. Now you try, look at it, notice that guy moved into your picture, try again, but the light wasn’t quite right, try again, see something else….
Apr 20th, 2005, 04:22 PM
#28
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Paris-Cont’d
Taillevent-Dinner. This is one of our favorite restaurants in the world. We consider it a fabulous piece of theater and now that they have changed the table arrangement you both get a ringside seat. We started with champagne while we examined the menu and negotiated what we would have. The amuse bouche was a langoustine veloute-wonderfully rich and flavorful. Then we had the Confit of duck foie gras with quince marmalade and a wonderful quenelle of chicken with truffles and crayfish sauce. With that we had a half bottle of Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 1990. Then I indulged myself with a Chausson feuilleté de ris de veau (which the English menu prosaically describes as a Sweetbread turnover) with tarragon and gremolata. Since Tomas isn’t as crazy about Ris de Veau as I am he only had a taste of it and I only had a bite of his rack of lamb with a pimento rub. With that we had a bottle of wine which we would only order in a place we trusted. It was a Beaune-Cent Vignes 1989 which was wonderful but the label was totally disintegrated. We were one of the last parties to leave that night but everyone remaining laughed as Tomas whipped out his camera to take a picture of the nonexistent label. As usual we had cheese that night but we have started to notice that we are one of the few people who do. The first time we went to Taillevent it was a huge rolling cart of at least 30 cheeses. Now it is a tray of about 15 cheeses. Tomas always gets the Epoisse but I try for things that I haven’t tried before. Nice blue cheese but I can never catch the names. Dessert was a chocolate and caramel concoction and Tomas had the sorbets. He always goes through sorbet withdrawal after we return. One of the best things about Taillevent is the service and the staff. I had chosen this restaurant as the first Michelin 3 star (to date the only-I think we should remedy that) because of the service. I was worried that it would be intimidating especially with the lack of language skills. Everyone on the staff speaks excellent English and have been very friendly. This trip we chatted with the table next to us- they are an American couple who moved to France for business and then retired there. What an ideal existence-at least from my view. They are friends of the people who own and run Vin sur Vin. I hope they passed on how much we enjoyed our evening there.
Taillevent-Dinner. This is one of our favorite restaurants in the world. We consider it a fabulous piece of theater and now that they have changed the table arrangement you both get a ringside seat. We started with champagne while we examined the menu and negotiated what we would have. The amuse bouche was a langoustine veloute-wonderfully rich and flavorful. Then we had the Confit of duck foie gras with quince marmalade and a wonderful quenelle of chicken with truffles and crayfish sauce. With that we had a half bottle of Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 1990. Then I indulged myself with a Chausson feuilleté de ris de veau (which the English menu prosaically describes as a Sweetbread turnover) with tarragon and gremolata. Since Tomas isn’t as crazy about Ris de Veau as I am he only had a taste of it and I only had a bite of his rack of lamb with a pimento rub. With that we had a bottle of wine which we would only order in a place we trusted. It was a Beaune-Cent Vignes 1989 which was wonderful but the label was totally disintegrated. We were one of the last parties to leave that night but everyone remaining laughed as Tomas whipped out his camera to take a picture of the nonexistent label. As usual we had cheese that night but we have started to notice that we are one of the few people who do. The first time we went to Taillevent it was a huge rolling cart of at least 30 cheeses. Now it is a tray of about 15 cheeses. Tomas always gets the Epoisse but I try for things that I haven’t tried before. Nice blue cheese but I can never catch the names. Dessert was a chocolate and caramel concoction and Tomas had the sorbets. He always goes through sorbet withdrawal after we return. One of the best things about Taillevent is the service and the staff. I had chosen this restaurant as the first Michelin 3 star (to date the only-I think we should remedy that) because of the service. I was worried that it would be intimidating especially with the lack of language skills. Everyone on the staff speaks excellent English and have been very friendly. This trip we chatted with the table next to us- they are an American couple who moved to France for business and then retired there. What an ideal existence-at least from my view. They are friends of the people who own and run Vin sur Vin. I hope they passed on how much we enjoyed our evening there.
Apr 24th, 2005, 09:24 AM
#29
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Underhill,I'm considering the Relais St. Germain. They have a 10% discount for summer. Here is the website:
www.hotelrsg.com
www.hotelrsg.com
Apr 24th, 2005, 09:27 AM
#30
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Btw, have you considered Hotel Luxembourg Parc? It seems very nice too although it's across the Luxembourg Gardens and not in St. Germain yet it's closeby at around 5-10 mins. walk.
Also Relais Saint Jacques looks exceptional although that is located farther in the Latin Qtr. and close to the Sorbonne and Val de Grace.
Also Relais Saint Jacques looks exceptional although that is located farther in the Latin Qtr. and close to the Sorbonne and Val de Grace.
Apr 24th, 2005, 12:10 PM
#31
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Shopping-
We aren’t big shopper except for things that you can eat or drink. No big surprise there. Here are a few of the places we picked up things.
Provence-
Olive Oil- we really liked the Castelas AOC olive oil we bought last year. Their shop is on the road to Les Baux de Provence. The litre tin is convenient for traveling since you don’t have to worry about a broken glass bottle of oil staining everything in your suitcase.
Tapenade, Pistou, Pesto, Confit de Tomate Sechee- All those wonderful things that are so Provencal can be obtained at the local grocery store. We went to the Intermarche in St Remy and stocked up. It is fun to go to the grocery store anyway and see what they carry that your local Stop & Shop doesn’t. These little jars make great gifts too.
Wines- We bought a selection of wines from Provence by stopping at the local cooperative in Rasteau, Gigondas and Beaumes-de-Venise. The prices are reasonable and you get to taste it right there. My husband dies of jealous when he sees the locals come in with their plastic jugs which get filled from the large vat. Unless you know a specific winery you want to stop at or have a recommendation this is a good way to get a basic understanding of the local wines. Also it supports the small producers who are able to afford the costs of marketing beyond their villages.
Joel Durand- In St Remy Joel Durand has a shop with amazing chocolates. We got a 16 tile box last year and moved up to a 32 tile box. When you enter the shop you will see a case with all the chocolates in it. There are all square with a nice dark finish and a gold letter on it. The sales person will give you a key to the letters. Then you can pick which chocolates you want. Be adventuresome! I would never have thought that dark chocolate with Baux olives would be edible but it was fabulous.
Watercolors-At the market at L’Isle-sur-la-sorgue last year I saw these little watercolors that I loved. Being an idiot I thought I would see the artist at another market later in the week. Then I would be able to pick the watercolors I wanted based upon where we had been. You know that I didn’t see her again until we returned to the market this year and she was in the same place. I did not hesitate. I marched up to her and said I want three little watercolors and the only decision I made was what scenes I wanted. I now have these watercolors hanging in my bathroom and it reminds me of my trips to Provence every time I brush my teeth.
We aren’t big shopper except for things that you can eat or drink. No big surprise there. Here are a few of the places we picked up things.
Provence-
Olive Oil- we really liked the Castelas AOC olive oil we bought last year. Their shop is on the road to Les Baux de Provence. The litre tin is convenient for traveling since you don’t have to worry about a broken glass bottle of oil staining everything in your suitcase.
Tapenade, Pistou, Pesto, Confit de Tomate Sechee- All those wonderful things that are so Provencal can be obtained at the local grocery store. We went to the Intermarche in St Remy and stocked up. It is fun to go to the grocery store anyway and see what they carry that your local Stop & Shop doesn’t. These little jars make great gifts too.
Wines- We bought a selection of wines from Provence by stopping at the local cooperative in Rasteau, Gigondas and Beaumes-de-Venise. The prices are reasonable and you get to taste it right there. My husband dies of jealous when he sees the locals come in with their plastic jugs which get filled from the large vat. Unless you know a specific winery you want to stop at or have a recommendation this is a good way to get a basic understanding of the local wines. Also it supports the small producers who are able to afford the costs of marketing beyond their villages.
Joel Durand- In St Remy Joel Durand has a shop with amazing chocolates. We got a 16 tile box last year and moved up to a 32 tile box. When you enter the shop you will see a case with all the chocolates in it. There are all square with a nice dark finish and a gold letter on it. The sales person will give you a key to the letters. Then you can pick which chocolates you want. Be adventuresome! I would never have thought that dark chocolate with Baux olives would be edible but it was fabulous.
Watercolors-At the market at L’Isle-sur-la-sorgue last year I saw these little watercolors that I loved. Being an idiot I thought I would see the artist at another market later in the week. Then I would be able to pick the watercolors I wanted based upon where we had been. You know that I didn’t see her again until we returned to the market this year and she was in the same place. I did not hesitate. I marched up to her and said I want three little watercolors and the only decision I made was what scenes I wanted. I now have these watercolors hanging in my bathroom and it reminds me of my trips to Provence every time I brush my teeth.
Apr 24th, 2005, 12:11 PM
#32
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Paris shopping-
Maille Mustards- this is another great place for little gifts. It is at place de la Madeleine. There are 32 different flavored Dijon mustard as well as the traditional plain. You can buy a little crock with a cork top which they will pump mustard into from a tap that is similar to a beer tap at a bar.
Lavinia-If you go to the Maille Mustard shop then a block down blvd Madeleine is the three story wine shop-Lavinia. There wines are reasonable priced and if you buy 6 bottles for 4 Euros you can have them box them for the plane. If anyone you know is like my husband and interested in Armagnac this is the place for you. There were vintage bottles back to 1908-all you need is money. There is also a little café which serves wines by the glass that are appropriate for each dish.
BHV- We bought some of those neat number tiles for the house for my sister last year. Unfortunately we forgot about them when we check the bag that didn’t pass security and two broke. The basement of BHV is filled with all sorts of neat stuff like that. If you know anyone with a dog or cat there are some funny signs about beware of dog or cat in French.
Marche St Germain-We go to this covered market in the 6th arrondissmont for flowers for the room. There is a small wine shop in the corner which is where we buy liqueurs such as Framboise, Mure etc. Also Tomas found a bottle of 1982 Armagnac (the year we got married) for a reasonable price. He wanted me to mention this shop to keep them in business.
Gerard Mulot- When we go to the airport to fly home we take a picnic with us. This is where we go to get a little pastry for that picnic. I wish that the bakeries around here would make these little gems. This year we got a tarte citron and something chocolate covered with a raspberry on top that was out of this world. I also bought some Easter chocolates for my staff –they said they were wonderful.
Maison du Chocolate- I stood in line here the day before Easter to buy boxes of chocolates for my co workers and my breakfast gang. This is one of those places that give you a guide so you know what you are picking but with the crush in the store and the pressure to pick and move I have no idea what I got. Everyone said there were wonderful and when they were gone a guy in management suggested that the company send me back for more. I was game but it was all just talk. If you go the chocolate with raspberry puree was wonderful but as you might guess this is one of my passions.
Maille Mustards- this is another great place for little gifts. It is at place de la Madeleine. There are 32 different flavored Dijon mustard as well as the traditional plain. You can buy a little crock with a cork top which they will pump mustard into from a tap that is similar to a beer tap at a bar.
Lavinia-If you go to the Maille Mustard shop then a block down blvd Madeleine is the three story wine shop-Lavinia. There wines are reasonable priced and if you buy 6 bottles for 4 Euros you can have them box them for the plane. If anyone you know is like my husband and interested in Armagnac this is the place for you. There were vintage bottles back to 1908-all you need is money. There is also a little café which serves wines by the glass that are appropriate for each dish.
BHV- We bought some of those neat number tiles for the house for my sister last year. Unfortunately we forgot about them when we check the bag that didn’t pass security and two broke. The basement of BHV is filled with all sorts of neat stuff like that. If you know anyone with a dog or cat there are some funny signs about beware of dog or cat in French.
Marche St Germain-We go to this covered market in the 6th arrondissmont for flowers for the room. There is a small wine shop in the corner which is where we buy liqueurs such as Framboise, Mure etc. Also Tomas found a bottle of 1982 Armagnac (the year we got married) for a reasonable price. He wanted me to mention this shop to keep them in business.
Gerard Mulot- When we go to the airport to fly home we take a picnic with us. This is where we go to get a little pastry for that picnic. I wish that the bakeries around here would make these little gems. This year we got a tarte citron and something chocolate covered with a raspberry on top that was out of this world. I also bought some Easter chocolates for my staff –they said they were wonderful.
Maison du Chocolate- I stood in line here the day before Easter to buy boxes of chocolates for my co workers and my breakfast gang. This is one of those places that give you a guide so you know what you are picking but with the crush in the store and the pressure to pick and move I have no idea what I got. Everyone said there were wonderful and when they were gone a guy in management suggested that the company send me back for more. I was game but it was all just talk. If you go the chocolate with raspberry puree was wonderful but as you might guess this is one of my passions.
Apr 24th, 2005, 12:51 PM
#35
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,232
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nikki-You have to try it to believe it. Even if you don't try that one how do you feel about chocolate and herbs such as basil or rosemary?
Francophile03- I looked at the Relais St Germain website and didn't see any mention of the discount. (Not that I will be going back that soon, unfortunately!) Was it through some other consolidator?
Francophile03- I looked at the Relais St Germain website and didn't see any mention of the discount. (Not that I will be going back that soon, unfortunately!) Was it through some other consolidator?
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Michael
Europe
6
Dec 1st, 2018 04:46 PM
caroltis
Europe
28
Nov 21st, 2008 03:39 PM
radiofanatic
Europe
15
Jun 27th, 2007 06:02 AM
