France/Italy Live Trip Report
Aug 5th, 2009, 01:03 PM
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France/Italy Live Trip Report
This is the first entry of what will be a 20 day live trip report about our travels in France and Italy featuring Dijon, Beaune,, Chamonix, Cinque Terre, Lucca, Orvieto, Assisi, & Rome I welcome feedback, questions, and recommendations. Stay tuned to this thread as new entries will appear daily. You can also follow this blog at explorerbear.blogspot,.com
As I write my first blog entry tonight, a light breeze is blowing in the window and voices of happy people echo from the distance. It has been a long two days, but at last we have arrived at our destination: the beautiful town of Dijon in the Burgundy region of France.
We began our journey at Logan Airport in Boston where we were able to experience a special treat: a relaxing visit to Lufthansa’s Senator Club lounge where we were able to enjoy a small light buffet of sandwiches, salads, fruit, pastries, and freshly brewed coffee. All this as a result of winning an online contest sponsored by Lufthansa in the spring.
Our flight across the North Atlantic was in record time according to the pilot due to weather patterns. As a result, we arrived in Dublin at 4:30 am. I imagined that the airport terminal would be barely awake, but surprisingly, it was a beehive of activity. Shoppers busily took advantage of sales of sundresses, watches, cameras, and books. Fortunately for us, we only had a 2 hour layover before our direct flight to Paris.
Once in Paris, we took the TVG bullet train to Dijon. We are saying in a wonderful flat right in the historic district owned by Coco at myhomeindijon.com who is warm, friendly, and very helpful. She met us at the train station and gave us an orientation of the town. Our flat is spacious and beautifully decorated. Inside is every amenity imaginable including a stocked refrigerator, a loaf of French bread, freshly baked chocolate cake, a computer with wifi, flat screen TV and a washer dryer. We feel so fortunate to be able to stay here.
After a short nap, we walked around the town. The town has a mix of Romanesque, Renaissance, and Gothic architecture along with half-timbered buildings. Late at night they are beautifully illuminated and we stopped at the Place de la Liberation, known as one of the most beautiful royal squares in France, and watched children gleefully play in some of the fountains which playfully shot spouts of water in the air. It is time for bed now, but we look forward to a full day tomorrow exploring this delightful town.
Our Adventure Begins
Soaring high above the North Atlantic
Beams of moonlight dance on the sea
Reaching distant shores in record time
Our summer adventure awaits!
As I write my first blog entry tonight, a light breeze is blowing in the window and voices of happy people echo from the distance. It has been a long two days, but at last we have arrived at our destination: the beautiful town of Dijon in the Burgundy region of France.
We began our journey at Logan Airport in Boston where we were able to experience a special treat: a relaxing visit to Lufthansa’s Senator Club lounge where we were able to enjoy a small light buffet of sandwiches, salads, fruit, pastries, and freshly brewed coffee. All this as a result of winning an online contest sponsored by Lufthansa in the spring.
Our flight across the North Atlantic was in record time according to the pilot due to weather patterns. As a result, we arrived in Dublin at 4:30 am. I imagined that the airport terminal would be barely awake, but surprisingly, it was a beehive of activity. Shoppers busily took advantage of sales of sundresses, watches, cameras, and books. Fortunately for us, we only had a 2 hour layover before our direct flight to Paris.
Once in Paris, we took the TVG bullet train to Dijon. We are saying in a wonderful flat right in the historic district owned by Coco at myhomeindijon.com who is warm, friendly, and very helpful. She met us at the train station and gave us an orientation of the town. Our flat is spacious and beautifully decorated. Inside is every amenity imaginable including a stocked refrigerator, a loaf of French bread, freshly baked chocolate cake, a computer with wifi, flat screen TV and a washer dryer. We feel so fortunate to be able to stay here.
After a short nap, we walked around the town. The town has a mix of Romanesque, Renaissance, and Gothic architecture along with half-timbered buildings. Late at night they are beautifully illuminated and we stopped at the Place de la Liberation, known as one of the most beautiful royal squares in France, and watched children gleefully play in some of the fountains which playfully shot spouts of water in the air. It is time for bed now, but we look forward to a full day tomorrow exploring this delightful town.
Our Adventure Begins
Soaring high above the North Atlantic
Beams of moonlight dance on the sea
Reaching distant shores in record time
Our summer adventure awaits!
Aug 6th, 2009, 01:24 PM
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August 6, 2009 Let the Owl Show You the Town of Dijon
Breakfast this morning was right here at our flat thanks to the owner, Coco (myhomeindijon.com), who thoughtfully stocked our kitchen with a fresh loaf of bread, eggs, milk, fruit, and coffee. We started our day with a visit to Le Grand Optical. Unfortunately David misplaced his prescription sunglasses between Dublin and Dijon and Coco graciously called an optical shop for us with same day service, and also emailed us the French translation for us to copy so that we could explain our situation. Thankfully the optician was able to read his prescription from his current lenses and we picked up a stylish pair of Hugo Boss sunglasses at the end of the day.
The owl is the symbol of Dijon and it is a an engaging and lighthearted ambassador. Visitors can pick up a map of the town with a small booklet of 22 special destinations in Dijon. To find them, all you need to do is follow the small brass triangle owl symbols embedded in the sidewalk. With our map in hand, we set off at once and discovered many fascinating places including a local covered market which comes alive four days a week with colorful flowers, seafood, and an array of fresh fruits and vegetables. At the Tour Phillippe le Bon, a 15th century tower, we joined other enthusiastic visitors to climb to the top for a staggering view of the town. At the top, we noted several buildings with colorful tiled roofs. Dijon's owl is also a symbol of good luck. At one of the stops, we followed tradition by rubbing our left hand (the one closest to your heart) over the image of the owl and made a wish.
The temperature has been close to 90 degrees today so as an interesting diversion from the heat, we spent some time enjoying the art work at Musee des Beaux-Arts where the old blended in with the new to display an extensive array of sculptures, paintings, and Egyptian artifacts. It should be noted that the museums in Dijon are free.
Dinner tonight was at Version Latine, a small restaurant with outdoor tables directly across from the market. We enjoyed a pizza smothered with fresh mushrooms, and a green salad with tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella. Walking around town after dinner, we admired the illuminated historic buildings and stopped at the Place del la Liberation the to watch children run through the water fountains that seem to magically spout out of the pavement. While the children played, their parents could be seen enjoying their dinner at the many candelit outdoor cafes. We wish we were staying longer in Dijon, but as Rick Steves says, "Assume you will return."
Breakfast this morning was right here at our flat thanks to the owner, Coco (myhomeindijon.com), who thoughtfully stocked our kitchen with a fresh loaf of bread, eggs, milk, fruit, and coffee. We started our day with a visit to Le Grand Optical. Unfortunately David misplaced his prescription sunglasses between Dublin and Dijon and Coco graciously called an optical shop for us with same day service, and also emailed us the French translation for us to copy so that we could explain our situation. Thankfully the optician was able to read his prescription from his current lenses and we picked up a stylish pair of Hugo Boss sunglasses at the end of the day.
The owl is the symbol of Dijon and it is a an engaging and lighthearted ambassador. Visitors can pick up a map of the town with a small booklet of 22 special destinations in Dijon. To find them, all you need to do is follow the small brass triangle owl symbols embedded in the sidewalk. With our map in hand, we set off at once and discovered many fascinating places including a local covered market which comes alive four days a week with colorful flowers, seafood, and an array of fresh fruits and vegetables. At the Tour Phillippe le Bon, a 15th century tower, we joined other enthusiastic visitors to climb to the top for a staggering view of the town. At the top, we noted several buildings with colorful tiled roofs. Dijon's owl is also a symbol of good luck. At one of the stops, we followed tradition by rubbing our left hand (the one closest to your heart) over the image of the owl and made a wish.
The temperature has been close to 90 degrees today so as an interesting diversion from the heat, we spent some time enjoying the art work at Musee des Beaux-Arts where the old blended in with the new to display an extensive array of sculptures, paintings, and Egyptian artifacts. It should be noted that the museums in Dijon are free.
Dinner tonight was at Version Latine, a small restaurant with outdoor tables directly across from the market. We enjoyed a pizza smothered with fresh mushrooms, and a green salad with tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella. Walking around town after dinner, we admired the illuminated historic buildings and stopped at the Place del la Liberation the to watch children run through the water fountains that seem to magically spout out of the pavement. While the children played, their parents could be seen enjoying their dinner at the many candelit outdoor cafes. We wish we were staying longer in Dijon, but as Rick Steves says, "Assume you will return."
Aug 7th, 2009, 12:32 PM
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The sun was streaming in the window when we awoke this morning. After a nice breakfast in our flat, Coco (myhomeindijon.com) picked us up and drove us to the railroad station. We will really miss her hospitality. You could not ask for a nicer person with such a wonderful centrally located place to stay. We will definitely return.
The train ride to Beaune was under 30 minutes long and once we arrived, it was less than a 15 minute walk to our accommodation, Hotel la Villa Fleurie. We are very pleased with our room which overlooks a small garden patio. This town is famous for wine and our first stop today was Marche Aux Vins, right in the heart of town. It was built between the 13th and 15th century as a Cordelier's church. Today their vineyards are in the exact same spot where Franciscans grew their grapes to make wine for church service.
The winery tour was self guided. As part of the entry fee, you receive commemorative wine tasting metal cups engraved with the name of the winery. You are then guided down the stairs to the wine cellar. At first the cellar seems dark and eerie, but when our eyes adjusted, we noticed that each of the wines were presented on an old wooden wine barrel with a single lit candle. There were 12-15 wines to taste at your leisure and we brought our own loaf of French bread to cleanse our palates. We couldn't help but notice a French family in front of us. Their elementary school age children proudly uncorked the bottles and served their parents a sip in a very dignified way.
Another section of the winery was inside the ancient church which has retained much of the original stone and features wooden beams on the ceiling and wrought iron candle holders. As a special treat, we purchased a small bottle of wine for later.
A late lunch was at Palais des Gourmets' Salon de The where we tried a crepe smothered with homemade strawberry jam. Across the street in a small park is a little carousel of old-fashioned animals such as a duck, cow, swan, and horses. What a pleasant place for children to play.
Feeling invigorated after lunch, we visited the Basillica of Notre Dame. Inside were beautiful stained glass windows and an old delicately woven tapestry on display depicting the life of Mary.
Dinner tonight was at Brasserie le Carnot. We ate outside and dined on crispy pizza with peppers, onions, cheese, olives, mushrooms, and artichoke hearts, as well as a salad with garden fresh greens, tomatoes, mozarella balls, thinly shaved ham, and juicy melon slices. Tomorrow is a huge farmer's market and we can't wait to visit it.
The train ride to Beaune was under 30 minutes long and once we arrived, it was less than a 15 minute walk to our accommodation, Hotel la Villa Fleurie. We are very pleased with our room which overlooks a small garden patio. This town is famous for wine and our first stop today was Marche Aux Vins, right in the heart of town. It was built between the 13th and 15th century as a Cordelier's church. Today their vineyards are in the exact same spot where Franciscans grew their grapes to make wine for church service.
The winery tour was self guided. As part of the entry fee, you receive commemorative wine tasting metal cups engraved with the name of the winery. You are then guided down the stairs to the wine cellar. At first the cellar seems dark and eerie, but when our eyes adjusted, we noticed that each of the wines were presented on an old wooden wine barrel with a single lit candle. There were 12-15 wines to taste at your leisure and we brought our own loaf of French bread to cleanse our palates. We couldn't help but notice a French family in front of us. Their elementary school age children proudly uncorked the bottles and served their parents a sip in a very dignified way.
Another section of the winery was inside the ancient church which has retained much of the original stone and features wooden beams on the ceiling and wrought iron candle holders. As a special treat, we purchased a small bottle of wine for later.
A late lunch was at Palais des Gourmets' Salon de The where we tried a crepe smothered with homemade strawberry jam. Across the street in a small park is a little carousel of old-fashioned animals such as a duck, cow, swan, and horses. What a pleasant place for children to play.
Feeling invigorated after lunch, we visited the Basillica of Notre Dame. Inside were beautiful stained glass windows and an old delicately woven tapestry on display depicting the life of Mary.
Dinner tonight was at Brasserie le Carnot. We ate outside and dined on crispy pizza with peppers, onions, cheese, olives, mushrooms, and artichoke hearts, as well as a salad with garden fresh greens, tomatoes, mozarella balls, thinly shaved ham, and juicy melon slices. Tomorrow is a huge farmer's market and we can't wait to visit it.
Aug 8th, 2009, 09:21 AM
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Dear ExplorerB,
Yes, isn't Dijon wonderful? We stayed at Coco's flat (www.myhomeindijon.com)for eight days in September 2008 and got a real "taste" of the city (pun intended). We are returning for 10 days in May 2010 and dovetailing this trip with 10 days in Beaune.
Of course, we are staying at Coco's again. She is a delight and the apartment is so comfortable. There is no other place like it.
Happy Traveling.
Yes, isn't Dijon wonderful? We stayed at Coco's flat (www.myhomeindijon.com)for eight days in September 2008 and got a real "taste" of the city (pun intended). We are returning for 10 days in May 2010 and dovetailing this trip with 10 days in Beaune.
Of course, we are staying at Coco's again. She is a delight and the apartment is so comfortable. There is no other place like it.
Happy Traveling.
Aug 8th, 2009, 10:17 AM
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Explorer - I just read your first chapter. What a wonderful adventure reading your live report! Looking forward to more. Dijon is definitely on my must-see list. (I went to south of France this year).
Aug 8th, 2009, 01:39 PM
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August 8 - Beaune's Vineyards and Museums
This morning, the weather forecast on our itouch predicted rain for the day so after a nice breakfast of cereal, yogurt, fruit, and croissants, we headed out with umbrellas in hand prepared to enjoy a variety of indoor and outdoor activities. Our first stop was the colorful and lively Beaune Saturday Market. Here you can feast your eyes on a wide array of organic fruits and vegetables including ripe juicy strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries, tomatoes so freshly picked the vines are still attached, and honey so right out of the hive that even the bees were seeking it out. Inside the market were crusty loves of bread, 15 kinds of olives all displayed in wooden bowls, cheeses, and roast chickens. Children lingered longingly over a huge buffet of candies sold by the pound and the aroma of fresh flowers and spices filled the air making it a very pleasant place to visit.
Right across from the market is Hotel Dieu. Built in 1443, this former hospital with a multi colored tiled roof, houses some 5,000 items. In the largest room is what looks like an elegant hospital inside the sanctuary of a church where all patients can view Mass, but it was actually a hospice. A river runs under the town and we could see it through a glassed in area on the floor where the nurses once used it as a disposal. Large cases in another room displayed antique syringes. The masterpiece of the complex is a magnificent alter piece showing the Last Judgement. It is kept in a dimly lit room where visitors are advised to whisper only. As you look at the painting, a huge magnifying glass moves about it highlighting each section which made the people look so real you felt you could reach out and touch them.
To save euro, we always try to eat at least one picnic lunch per day and it really pays off. All around us in the park were other families doing the same thing. We then took the Visiotrain for a one hour tour through Beaune and out into the vineyards. The information given in English is sparse, but it's a nice overview to give you a taste of the town. Once back in town, we visited the Alain Hesse Fromagerie where over 60 different types of cheeses are stored in a cave. We learned that in the French tradition, cheese should be enjoyed with red wine and bread, not crackers.
After a delicious dinner at the same restaurant as last night, we went to an interesting festival: Cine-Retro featured three silent films from the 1920s with a live pianist. We were treated to Charlie Chaplin, Laurel and Hardy, and to a funny Max Linder French film. The movies were shown on a reel to reel projector which made it feel very authentic. Inbetween each movie, a female singer sang French love songs which was an unusual contrast to the films. On the way back to our hotel, the moon was shining high above, hopefully signally a good day for tomorrow when we will journey to Chamonix.
This morning, the weather forecast on our itouch predicted rain for the day so after a nice breakfast of cereal, yogurt, fruit, and croissants, we headed out with umbrellas in hand prepared to enjoy a variety of indoor and outdoor activities. Our first stop was the colorful and lively Beaune Saturday Market. Here you can feast your eyes on a wide array of organic fruits and vegetables including ripe juicy strawberries, raspberries, and blackberries, tomatoes so freshly picked the vines are still attached, and honey so right out of the hive that even the bees were seeking it out. Inside the market were crusty loves of bread, 15 kinds of olives all displayed in wooden bowls, cheeses, and roast chickens. Children lingered longingly over a huge buffet of candies sold by the pound and the aroma of fresh flowers and spices filled the air making it a very pleasant place to visit.
Right across from the market is Hotel Dieu. Built in 1443, this former hospital with a multi colored tiled roof, houses some 5,000 items. In the largest room is what looks like an elegant hospital inside the sanctuary of a church where all patients can view Mass, but it was actually a hospice. A river runs under the town and we could see it through a glassed in area on the floor where the nurses once used it as a disposal. Large cases in another room displayed antique syringes. The masterpiece of the complex is a magnificent alter piece showing the Last Judgement. It is kept in a dimly lit room where visitors are advised to whisper only. As you look at the painting, a huge magnifying glass moves about it highlighting each section which made the people look so real you felt you could reach out and touch them.
To save euro, we always try to eat at least one picnic lunch per day and it really pays off. All around us in the park were other families doing the same thing. We then took the Visiotrain for a one hour tour through Beaune and out into the vineyards. The information given in English is sparse, but it's a nice overview to give you a taste of the town. Once back in town, we visited the Alain Hesse Fromagerie where over 60 different types of cheeses are stored in a cave. We learned that in the French tradition, cheese should be enjoyed with red wine and bread, not crackers.
After a delicious dinner at the same restaurant as last night, we went to an interesting festival: Cine-Retro featured three silent films from the 1920s with a live pianist. We were treated to Charlie Chaplin, Laurel and Hardy, and to a funny Max Linder French film. The movies were shown on a reel to reel projector which made it feel very authentic. Inbetween each movie, a female singer sang French love songs which was an unusual contrast to the films. On the way back to our hotel, the moon was shining high above, hopefully signally a good day for tomorrow when we will journey to Chamonix.
Aug 9th, 2009, 01:24 AM
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<cheese should be enjoyed with red wine and bread, not crackers.> Cheese with crackers? Sacrilege! :-S
You are right, les Hospices de Beaune are a must and a very interesting visit.
Have a good trip to Chamonix!
You are right, les Hospices de Beaune are a must and a very interesting visit.
Have a good trip to Chamonix!
Aug 9th, 2009, 08:28 AM
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Hi Coco,
We have learned our lesson. Only nice bread with cheese for us from now on and no more crackers when we get back home. No wonder they didn't seem to have much of a selection of crackers in the grocery store in Beaune!
Nancy
We have learned our lesson. Only nice bread with cheese for us from now on and no more crackers when we get back home. No wonder they didn't seem to have much of a selection of crackers in the grocery store in Beaune!
Nancy
Aug 9th, 2009, 11:13 AM
#17
hi explorer
LOL - no more crackers and cheese for you.
however, sometimes the only bread is stale - then what do you do? try pears with Brie or camembert, an apple with cheddar, and grapes with manchego [yes really, delicious]. I'm sure you can find your own "pairings".
if push comes to shove, the best biscuits we've found are Digestives, Cornish wafers, and Carr's water biscuits. sorry coco, but sometimes, TINA.
loving the report,
regards, ann
LOL - no more crackers and cheese for you.
however, sometimes the only bread is stale - then what do you do? try pears with Brie or camembert, an apple with cheddar, and grapes with manchego [yes really, delicious]. I'm sure you can find your own "pairings".
if push comes to shove, the best biscuits we've found are Digestives, Cornish wafers, and Carr's water biscuits. sorry coco, but sometimes, TINA.
loving the report,
regards, ann
Aug 9th, 2009, 11:41 AM
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August 9 - Towering Peaks of Chamonix
Early this morning at breakfast, there seemed to be a family reunion in the dining room. Children exchanged warm hugs with grandparents making the atmosphere very upbeat. We wound our way through Beaune’s cobblestone streets and eventually found our way to the railroad station. The woman in the ticket booth said it would take 12 hours to get to Chamonix, but thankfully it only took about five.
French trains are clean, modern, and swift. Our seats were perched on a raised platform and were very comfortable. Unfortunately, the woman across from us did not secure her steel sided suitcases and early on it came tumbling down slightly injuring my toe It was not a good way to start a three hour train ride, but it will be okay. Passing through the countryside, the peaks of distant mountains soon became visible and added a beautiful backdrop to fields of sunflowers. Tiny alpine style houses with stucco roofs and window boxes bursting with flowers surrounded us on both sides.
Our final connection to Chamonix had huge panoramic windows. As we ascended up the mountains, torrential streams roared beneath the bridges and tiny paragliders soared high above catching the wind in their parachutes.. What an amazing view they must have.
Chamonix is so picturesque. Tall mountain peaks loom above the town with a breathtaking view of the snowcapped Mont Blanc. Gondolas in all directions whisk people to the top for dreamy views. Our hotel, Oustalet, looks like an Alpine chalet. Our room is decorated in natural pine and has a balcony overlooking the town and the mountains. We sat in the garden by the pool and had a chopped chicken and bacon, sandwich served between two buckwheat pancakes. Locals call it a blini. Delicious!
A light rain is falling tonight, but from our room we can still see the lights of the town with the glacier still visible on Mont. Blanc.
Early this morning at breakfast, there seemed to be a family reunion in the dining room. Children exchanged warm hugs with grandparents making the atmosphere very upbeat. We wound our way through Beaune’s cobblestone streets and eventually found our way to the railroad station. The woman in the ticket booth said it would take 12 hours to get to Chamonix, but thankfully it only took about five.
French trains are clean, modern, and swift. Our seats were perched on a raised platform and were very comfortable. Unfortunately, the woman across from us did not secure her steel sided suitcases and early on it came tumbling down slightly injuring my toe It was not a good way to start a three hour train ride, but it will be okay. Passing through the countryside, the peaks of distant mountains soon became visible and added a beautiful backdrop to fields of sunflowers. Tiny alpine style houses with stucco roofs and window boxes bursting with flowers surrounded us on both sides.
Our final connection to Chamonix had huge panoramic windows. As we ascended up the mountains, torrential streams roared beneath the bridges and tiny paragliders soared high above catching the wind in their parachutes.. What an amazing view they must have.
Chamonix is so picturesque. Tall mountain peaks loom above the town with a breathtaking view of the snowcapped Mont Blanc. Gondolas in all directions whisk people to the top for dreamy views. Our hotel, Oustalet, looks like an Alpine chalet. Our room is decorated in natural pine and has a balcony overlooking the town and the mountains. We sat in the garden by the pool and had a chopped chicken and bacon, sandwich served between two buckwheat pancakes. Locals call it a blini. Delicious!
A light rain is falling tonight, but from our room we can still see the lights of the town with the glacier still visible on Mont. Blanc.
