ger

I have recently returned from a few days in Florence and am providing a trip report. Many thanks to all who responded to my personal queries and those who responded to other enquiries, which I search and stored and used, to make the best of my short time in Florence. <BR> <BR>GENERAL INFORMATION <BR> <BR>HOTELS: <BR>I travel on business to Europe and generally have only one week's notice to book my interesting diversions. Therefore, as far as hotels are concerned, I have to take what I can get. The pickings were very slim this time for Florence. Best I could do was two nights in the Star Vespucci (3-4 Star) and two in the Montebello Splendido (Four Star). I would be interested in feedback on the cost of hotel rooms in Florence in comparison other cities as I personally found them both expensive, all things considered, considering the firsts location and the seconds high price. <BR> <BR>VESPUCCI <BR>260,000 Lire per Night: Large modern hotel in a very depressing industrial estate. Last time I had such a dismal view from my hotel window was when I stayed in a Mariott Courtyard in Warren Michigan opposite the GM plant. Rooms are very large, extremely comfortable and very nicely decorated which is just as well as I kept the curtains closed all the time I was there to avoid looking out upon the very bleak view!. Trip to Florence takes about 30-40 mins by taxi at a cost of about US$30-$40. Staff were very friendly and helpful. Who would want to stay here??? - no idea, but perhaps might appeal to a group that could share the exorbitant taxi fare to Florence and is also touring around the area to Bologna, Sienna etc as it is very close to the major highways. Really <BR> <BR>MONTEBELLO SPLENDIDO <BR>460,000 Lire per Night (Ouch!): Excellent location but, at the price, FAR more than I generally spend. I have no idea if this hotel constitutes value for money in Florence for a Four star hotel as I have not stayed in an hotel in Florence before. Great location, on a small, quite street (Montebello) within 15 mins walking distance from Ponte Vecchio and very close to the train station. I had a very lovely room with King-size bed overlooking the garden, where you can have breakfast and drinks. Staff were in "livery" (morning suits etc.) and efficient rather than overtly friendly. Who would stay here?: Lovely hotel, but tell me what a 4 STAR room in an hotel costs in Florence? <BR>

ger

TOUR BOOKS <BR>I have finally found a tour book written specially for ME - National Geographic Florence & Tuscany. It is absolutely fabulous with extraordinary pictures and great historical insights. Will not help much in planning a trip re hotels etc. but definitely worth buying for a complete understanding of the city's architecture & history.. Of course, I forgot to bring it WITH me on the trip and had to buy another in the UK. Bought "Insight Tuscany", which was highly recommended by Amazon, but found it more suited to someone exploring the entire region of Tuscany; would definitely be an excellent source for planning a trip - good maps for driving. In Florence, I purchased Eyewitness Florence & Tuscany for reference (I've always liked this series). <BR> <BR>I did remember to bring with me my FLORENCEWALKS tapes. I discovered the series when in Barcelona in May (in book form only for Barcelona). I loved the book so much I bought the series for Florence, Rome, Florence, London (tape format) and Paris (book format). They are just perfect! Each charts out four-six walks (2-3 hours) and provides an anecdotal historical perspective on the city ( think HELLO magazine meets National Geographic, circa 15th-17th century: Lorenzo the Magnificent and Geri (Spice Girl) Halliwell party the night away on the Ponte Vecchio - is romance in the air??) I joke, of course, but these books/tapes give you insight into the daily lives & scandals of the people who lived here so long ago. If you travel on your own, seriously consider these tapes as it is like having a personal tour guide to show you the city. I ordered mine from Barnes & Noble @ $18 each. <BR> <BR>So I now have over $100 worth of information on Florence for a four day visit!!!! <BR> <BR>FOOD <BR>Sorry but I have nothing great to tell you about restaurants. I dined in very unexciting places that I hardly remember and none stands out as somewhere I would recommend for Foodies. However, I think you must, at least once, have lunch in Piazza della Signoria. I did so twice in a restaurant whos name eludes me but it was directly in front of the Plazzo del Vecchio. I did not come back for the food (which was acceptable, but not extraordinary) but the view was simply fantastic and will never be forgotten. I also tried out Da Granino in Paizza dei Cimatori which is also a nice place to visit for lunch. <BR> <BR>DRESS <BR>Don't consider visiting this city without wearing all of the following at the same time: Gucci shoes, Prada Handbag, Missoni shirts, Versace pants/skirts, La Perla undies. The fashion police patrol everywhere, accompanied by their "sniffer dogs" (French Poodles, of course) seeking out tourists wearing white running shoes, flamboyant track suits and fanny packs. Saw an unfortunate lady from Ohio having her Nikes ripped off her to be replaced by 4 inch high, strappy Prada sandals. Last I saw of her was as she teetered off trying to balance on the cobble stones. <BR> <BR>Seriously though, if you intend to visit churches, make sure your arms are covered and don't wear shorts. I saw several visitors being turned away. On hot days, I wear a tee-shirt but carry a long-sleeved cardigan for church visits. <BR>

ger

SHOPPING <BR>Bring lots of money! Obviously, every Italian designer is represented here and the main shopping streets are Via: Tornabuoni, Vigna & Roma. Staff are friendly, without being intrusive, and all speak excellent English. I found some very nice men's stores along the south bank of the Arno from the Ponte A. Vespuci to the Ponte Vecchio. I practiced a modicum of restraint and only purchased a pair of Gucci sunglasses, some Missoni tops for the husband and a pair of Todd's shoes that I considerer a medical, rather than a fashion purchase, as my feet were killing me! They really are VERY comfortable shoes and extremely well priced compared to Toronto (actually, all purchases were cheaper than I could have done in TO). <BR> <BR>An infinite variety of leather goods can be found in abundance in the Mercato Centrale in the area around San Lorenzo. Visit the little pharmacy Erboristeria on Via Vacchereccia (just off the Plazzo della Signoria) for a wide assortment of toiletries and essential oils. There is another famous store (Farmacia di Santo Novella, Via del Scala) that I did not visit, but is world famous for its products - made by the monks. I also visited lots of great little shops that specialize in paper goods- notebooks, marbleized paper and decorative objects. I did not buy any as I have purchased lots of the stuff in Toronto over the years (for three times the cost!) and from my previous visit to Florence (it almost is too beautiful to use). A nice little notebook of handmade paper with a marbleized cover makes a great gift (and easily packed) as do the little "treasure boxes". Beware of buying them in the markets as they may not be (most likely are not) the "real thing" - buy them in the stores that have perfected this craft over the last few hundred years. <BR> <BR>I found a wonderful (and expensive) leather store in Plazzo della Signoria (can't remember the name, please excuse me as a am a relatively new contributor and lack the discipline of the more experienced contributors - I am sure there is someone on the site that remembers the name). It sells briefcases, wallets, day-timers and beautiful cards and notepaper. It's where you would buy that perfect gift for a special someone or just a card as a remembrance.. <BR> <BR>Another item you might consider is ceramics. We collect MUTTI and I noticed the pieces were priced very low compared to home. There are several stores around the Ponte Vecchio, but I am sure that this is not the place you could get the best bargains. Does anyone have suggestions for where you can pick up quality ceramic items for a good price? <BR> <BR>TO BE CONTINUED …. <BR>

carol

Thanks for the terrific report. I thoroughly enjoyed reading it.

ger

Thanks Carol .... I'll post part 2 this afternoon, so stay tuned! <BR> <BR>Regard ... Ger

rob k

Delightful reading, Ger. Eagerly looking forward to part 2. <BR> <BR>And since you now have these great guidebooks on Florence, we'll designate you as a 'Firenze Expert'! <BR> <BR>I've never stayed at any four star hotels in Italy (sigh, one day perhaps . . .), so can't offer up opinion on value/cost of your accommadations.

BOB THE NAVIGATOR

Good stuff---Grazie Ger !

ger

First Walk <BR> <BR>My first "FlorenceWalk" tape took me from the Duomo through "Dante's Florence", ending in the Piazza della Signoria. The highlights for me were, of course, the starting and ending points, but also, the suspension of time that the "FlorenceWalk" tape creates, as it guides one through the early history of the city talks of the families that built it. (Note: Please excuse the all spelling of historical, family & place names as I don't have time to look it all up!). I can't do justice to the tapes, but I hope to encourage you, if you are interested, to discover more. <BR> <BR>Just a short stroll away from the Duomo on the V. Vecchietti, we are introduced to the old and powerful Florentine family - Vecchietti, …. Look for the "Devil's corner"; an evil looking demon crouches on the corner of a building - this is where the family hung their flag during celebrations and the coat of arms is still displayed above. <BR> <BR>Piazza della Rebublica, the old market, an important part of Florentine history, established in the 11th century, as Florence became a major commercial force in Europe with the establishment of the guilds. It was here that the Medici raised themselves, from their humble craft of medicine (from which the name came,) to be the princes of Florence. The square was rebuilt in the 1880s and is, some claim, the ugliest square in Italy! (An exaggeration, I think. Good place to have a coffee and to stroll through the arches, which, I hesitate to mention, were pictured in "Hannibal" ). <BR> <BR>There is a discussion on the tape regarding the conflict between the Ghibellines (Old Nobility) and the Guelphs (the emerging and increasingly successful traders), which I think Americans will just love (similar to the defeat of the jaded and exploitive "Ancienne (feudal) regime" cica 1776 in the U.S.). The walk brings you to several sites associated with both parties. <BR> <BR>In Via della Terme are some of the original 11th Century Florentine towers. Being a walled city, it was more economical to build up rather than out. As a merchants wealth increased, rooms were added to vertically. The towers also provided refuge during the many family fueds in the city. In Piazza del Limbo discover a church may have been founded by Charlemagne and see the plaque that marks the high water mark of the famous 1960s flood. The Budelmonte Tower, on Borgo St. Apostole (?), is a monument to a 13th century tragic tale of love and loss and vengeance. On the Via de Lamberti, Orsanmecheli (church) has an interesting façade: Each of the major guilds are represented by a statue of their patron saint. <BR> <BR>Plaza della Senoria: Previously the governmental center of Venice and filled with extraordinary statuary, including David (copy), the Neptune Fountain, Hercules, Persus and the Rape of the Sabines (under reconstruction when I was there). It is a great place for lunch, a glass of wine (food OK, wine marginal, view and atmosphere -the BEST!). Twice, I had lunch in Orcagna which looks directly onto the Pallazo Vecchio. You may be treated to the "Bonfire of the Vanities" or the burning of Savonarola (OOPS, sorry, that was the 15th century!) The afternoon I was there, there was no burning of heretics, but a school band from Ohio was playing "Yanky Doodle", "Dixie", "Star Spangled Banner" and other tunes that just delighted the audience. It's just amazing how many non Americans among us can hum along! <BR> <BR> <BR>Sally Fowler has kindly posted some of my photos of Florence on her web-site @: <BR> <BR>http://geocities.com/dhfsbf/fodorite/pictures.htm <BR> <BR>To be continued <BR>

Robin

Hi Ger-- <BR> <BR>Thanks for a great report. I'm curious about your tapes-- they sound fabulous for a solo traveler. How do you think they would work for a couple? Would it be too cumbersome to pass a walkman back and forth? Should we listen out loud? Or is it just not an appropriate tool? I'd love to hear your opinion.

ger

Robin: <BR>My walkman (an ancient Sony Bodoo Kan) has an A & B oulet so you can plug in two sets of earphones! It should not be too difficult to find a similar device. <BR> <BR>Regards

ger

The Second Walk brings you through the streets of the Renaissance Princes. <BR> <BR>It starts in the Piazza San per Maggiore and ends at the Ponte Alle Grazie and tells the story of the struggle for supremacy among the warring factions that ruled Florence, culminating in the final and complete supremacy of the Medici family. <BR> <BR>The Albitci(?) family were old enemies of the Medici's and the area around Piazza San per Maggiorre was their territory. They gathered their allies around them to protect themselves against their very powerful enemies. <BR> <BR>The 13th Bargello, originally a prison and now an extraordinary museum, contains works of Michelangelo, Donetello ect. The tape provides a wonderful tour of the important art works in the museum. I was made as hell that the museum was closed when I did the tour! Vivolis ice cream parlor, around the corner from the museum, is apparently not to be missed, if you are an ice cream fan, and neither is the church. Can't vouch for either though as, on that day, Florence decided to close all important sites to Ger, just for spite! OK, it was Monday, and most important museums and shops are closed on Monday (some shops open at 15:00). <BR> <BR>On Piazza Santa Croce, you find the church of Basilica S.C. built in the 13th century, on the site of a church founded by Frances de Assisi. The facade was completed in 19th century. Anyone who was anyone is buried or memorialized here (almost expect to see a memorial to Princess Di!) -the great Michelangelo, Galileo, Dante, Machiavelli (odd sleeping partners, come to think of it - just imagine the conversations among the ghosts when the lights are turned off?). But, the dead are dead (probably just as well, as they can't see their (in my mind) tacky monuments), yet Giotto's frescoes will live forever as a testimony to his supreme genius and his chapels, to me, are the great treasures of this extraordinary church. Also, don't miss the (controversial at the time) crucifix by Donnetello - Christ as a peasant, according to Brunnelesco (NOT meant as a compliment) - so what else would a carpenter from Galilee look like? But, at the time, it represents an extraordinary departure from the concept of Christ as God as opposed to Christ as Man. Bring lots of coins to illuminate the chapels. <BR> <BR>On Via Betacordi you find the home of Michelangelo. His father was disappointed that his brilliant son should want to take on the lowly craft of an artist (see kids - NEVER let your parents pick your profession for you!). Great discussion on the tape as how this extraordinary, arrogant and self-important brat eventually came to the attention of the great Lorenzo De Medici. <BR> <BR>Piazza Peruzzi: In the 14th century, this banking family made an enormous loan to the king of England, who defaulted. The subsequent fallout almost destroyed Florence and the family had to leave the city for some years as a result. The Alberti Family tower (15th century), another important family that was dispelled from Florence for siding with "the workers" during a conflict. The family produced one of the greatest of the Renaissance architects - Leon Baptiste Alberti. As you stand on the bridge - Grazia -you will see on your left side, on the opposite bank, the church of San Miniatto (12th century). <BR> <BR> <BR>TO BE CONTINUED ....

ger

Markets, Bazaars & Antiques: <BR> <BR>This walk will appeal to the shoppers among you. There is something for everyone: The bargain-hunter, seeking cheap leather goods (though not cheaply made) or bails of fabric; the fashion aficionado doing the Gucci/Armani/Versace thing; the buyer of extraordinary antiques (that can tell real from fake); the art lover with lots of money to spend and the one that just wants to pick up some small and perfect remembrance of your visit to Florence. For the non-shoppers, there is much to enjoy also, including the church of San Lorenzo and the first important Renaissance Palazzo. <BR> <BR> <BR>The walk starts at Via Nationale at the beautiful "Tabernacle of Funtacini" a ceramic shrine by Derobia. On Via Del Ariento you find the indoor market, which, if open, is worth a visit - a very different shopping experience to the average North American supermarket and a slice of daily Florentine life. This is also the area of the outdoor markets, where all kinds of leather goods and fabrics are found. Via San Antonino is lined with food and wine stores. <BR> <BR>Further down the street, is the church of San Lorenzo started in the early 15th century, designed by Brunellesci and financed by Giovanni de Medici. The statue of Anna Maria de Medici, the last of the great family, died in 18th century, although by that stage the family had married in to all of the ruling Catholic dynasties of Europe. She left her entire art collection to the city of Florence. Check ahead of time to make sure the church is open during your tour. <BR> <BR>Machievelli's mistress lived in this area # 13 Via del Giglio. At Via De Banci # 4, Francesco Medici used to meet with his mistress, Bianca Capello. Her husband was found dead under suspicious circumstances and after Francesco's. wife died, Bianca became the most powerful woman in Florence until both were poisoned by Francesco's brother - a Cardinal. Via della Bella Donna is either named for a brothel or the pretty seamstresses that lived there in the 16th century. <BR> <BR>Via della Vigna Nova: Gucci store ALERT! (Armani, Versacce, Valentino are also on this street) Across the street is the home of the Duke of Northumberland, the son of Robert Dudley, "mistress" of Elizabeth the first of England and portrayed by Joseph Finnes in the movie "Elizabeth". The son was a respected military officer, navigator and ship designer for Cosimo Medici. . The Pallazzo del Ruchellai - the first Renaissance palace in Italy (designed by Alberti). The palazzo was built at a time of great peace and prosperity in Florence. Clan warfare decreased, the families moved out of their towers and the new wealth made aristocrats of the merchant classes. The Loggia opposite is now the chicest modern art gallery in Florence. Next door to the Palazzo, there is an excellent example of "scrafito" work. Houses were built of rough stone and covered with plaster. The wet plaster was then decorated with scrollwork. There are other examples all over Florence. In a small laneway (Via Palcatti) is the entrance to the Palazzo and it now houses the "Academy of the Caldron" an artiste's club where you can buy paintings and sculptures executed by the members in the $200 - $300 range. <BR> <BR>The area around Via del Moro is Florence's Antique and restoration area. Borgo Onisanti # 20 is Hospital of San Giovanni founded in 1400 has a wonderful baroque lobby. On the Via del la Porcelanna #20 you find an Internet Café. <BR> <BR>Piazza de Santa Maria Novella: The church façade is quite stunning with green & white marble scrollwork. The exterior Paid for by Rucheillai and designed by Alberti. <BR> <BR>TO BE CONTINUED ....

ger

The Oltrano: The Artisan's quarter <BR> <BR>The walk starts at Ponte S. Trinita and ends at the Ponte Vecchio <BR> <BR>The area was settled mid-14th century, originally by the working class who were quickly followed by the merchant classes, anxious to build magnificent palazzo to show off their wealth. The most famous ostentatious display of wealth is, of course, the Piti palace. <BR> <BR>The statuary, at each corner of the Ponte Trinita, represents the four seasons and are really delightful, particularly early on a sunny Saturday morning. <BR> <BR>On Via Santo Spirito, we find the house of Machiavelli. At # 11 is a mini shopping mall and a beautiful little courtyard with the bell tower of the church of Santo Spirito as a backdrop. There is a wonderful statue of pan hidden among the greenery. <BR> <BR>Branchachi Chapel - one of my favorite sites. Frescos by Masolino, Masachio, Filippino Lipi. Most of the 15th century frescos are based on the life of St. Peter. The most spectacular of the frescos, for me, was the Adam & Eve - Expulsion from paradise - their torment and shame is clearly visible. It must have had an extraordinary unsettling effect on the congregation. The other frescos are more "fun"; resurrection of Tabitha is particularly engaging, particularly the two dandies walking across the forecourt in their silken finery. I loved the way in which the painter mixed the ancient religious story with the modern, in the same way that a modern director might adapt a Shakespearean play by dressing the cast in modern attire or using incidents from recent history to make the experience more relevant to the audience. The colours are so vivid and the faces so ordinary that, if the robes were replaced with suits, it could be a city scene in Chicago. The power of great art - time, nor technological development, can never diminish its message. <BR> <BR>Piazzo Santo Spirito: a wonderful open space dominated by the façade of the church. During my tour of Florence, I was reputably struck by how close the religious and secular life existed in harmony. When I was there (Saturday morning), there were several small stalls selling all sorts of goodies including breads, candles, soaps and jams. The church itself, designed by Brunnelesco, is wonderfully simple. Naturally, it was closed when I visited, but worth a visit according to the tape. To the left of the church is an interesting museum with an eclectic collection (all tags were written in Italian, so forgive me if I get it wrong) of art and artifacts from what appears to be early Christian times to 15th century. Definitely worthwhile to spend an hour here. <BR> <BR>Palazzo Garanni: 15th century and an example of the stark and severe architecture popular during the Savonrola republic, then all ostentatious displays of wealth and frivolity were frowned upon. Not a period that I would have chosen to live in! <BR> <BR> <BR>TO BE CONTINUED ....

ger

Trip to Sienna <BR>I decide to spend a half day on Sunday there. You can take the bus or train - I was advised to take the bus from just around the corner from the train station. On Sunday, there is a limited service (I think there were four buses in the morning, I took the 10 am one, but check timetables and get there reasonably early as the bus fills quickly. The drive is about 70 mins and it is a nice journey. The bus stops just outside the oldest part of the city and it is a 10 mins walk to the ? <BR> <BR>Sienna will not disappoint the most ardent critic. For me the most striking aspect was the colour - the warm, rich burnt sienna is dazzling. I spent several hours just wandering around the narrow streets off the ? As the day wore on, the town filled up and lost some of its charm as a result, so I would suggest you get the first bus there (around 8 am) and take advantage of the quite. I would imagine a weekday would be best to go, as there were at least as many Italian tourists there as there were foreigners. <BR> <BR>The Duomo museum should not be missed and the easiest way to see it is to hire the electronic guided tour. The ground floor contains many of the original statues that graced the exterior of the cathedral and the reality of the faces is quite extraordinary - they almost speak to you. The tour takes you up on the roof via a stone spiral staircase, where you have a commanding view of the town and the surrounding countryside. If you are really brave, and NOT claustrophobic, then proceed up the tower for an even better view. Be warned, however, this is not for the faint of heart. There is barely enough room for one person and, on my way up, I encountered 12 Americans on their way down and had to squeeze by them balancing on the key of the stones. They were sweet and I was half dragged, half pushed up - most intimate moment I have ever had with 12 complete strangers, I'll tell you! One poor lady at the top of the tower was so traumatized by the experience that she was scared to go back down. I had intended to have lunch in the ? but when I got there (it was now about 1:30) the place was packed. The space is obviously an amphitheatre and the cacophony was deafening so I decided to return to Florence on the 1415 bus. <BR> <BR>TO BE CONTINUED

mike

Ger, great report! <BR>In answer to your question re: cost of hotels, we stayed at the Lungarno (on the river in the Oltrano by the P.Vecchio) and it was a LOT more expensive than the 460,000 lira u spent. But the Lungarno was well worth it - room on the Arno, first rate! We have good luck renting apts. in Florence for around $1000-1500 a week, again, on the Arno in the Oltrano area (through Vacanza Bella rental agency in San Francisco). Also the rist. on that side of the river are our favs. Some of the best food I've had anywhere in Europe was in the Oltrano. Thanks again for taking the time to "write-up" your trip. Mike.

ger

topping for Greg

alison

Ger, great report - I missed it the first time. Too funny about the fashion police in Florence and Italy. THIS should be the last word on 'what should I wear' threads. I, too bought Tod's on both trips last year at about 2/3 the US price. <BR><BR>The area you were referring to in Siena is Il Campo.<BR><BR>Thanks - I want your job.