Four Awesome Weeks in the North of Spain and Catalunya
Jun 20th, 2015, 07:42 PM
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@ joannyc -- WGACA! I learned about the Clos Sainte Cecile from another Fodorite some years ago. I can't remember who it was now, but I do remember thinking it a great find. I hope it has withstood the years!
Jun 20th, 2015, 09:12 PM
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@ kelsey22 -- I stayed at the Hotel Ginebra. Here's my (unusually long) TA review:
"I spent 5 nights in a single with a (tiny!) balcony at the Hotel Ginebra in late May. Although I have mixed reactions about my stay (because of the mix of pros and cons), I thought the pros outweighed the cons and think staying here was a good choice for me.
"Pros:
• The location, overlooking the Placa de Catalunya, meant a certain level of noise at certain times of days, but also meant ready access by foot, metro, or bus to just about anywhere one might want to go in Barcelona.
• Even if it was tiny, I loved my little balcony!
• Although the breakfast buffet was not extensive, it wasn’t limited to absolute basics. For example, it included a nice selection of cheeses. For a small and very inexpensive hotel, I was favorably impressed.
• The bathroom was spotlessly clean and was cleaned daily (as was the room), had a decent amount of counter space, and offered good water pressure and temperature.
• The room included some welcome accoutrements: a hot water kettle and basket with beverage essentials; a mini-fridge (empty); a safe; free wifi.
• At the end of my first long day in Barcelona, I heard a knock on the door – there was a staff member, holding a tray with a split of cava, champagne glass, and selection of chocolates – a welcome gift!
Absolutely unexpected and so VERY welcome!
• The hotel kindly accommodated a request I placed in advance of my stay to hold a suitcase starting a day before my check-in. (I passed through Barcelona on my way to an overnight stay elsewhere.)
• Compared to other hotels in the area, I thought the value VERY hard to beat.
"Cons:
• My single was oddly shaped. The only way to get to the tiny balcony was to either roll over the single bed or – for those of us who are flexible enough – to contort one’s body through the limited space to the balcony door.
• This room was decorated with an appalling eye – the clash of discordant colors and incompatible patterns produced in me a strongly visceral negative response.
• My initial entry to the hotel was not welcoming – I pressed the bell, only to hear an indecipherabl gutteral response, which was repeated several times before I was buzzed in, and then, after I reached the floor on which the hotel is located, I encountered another series of incomprehensible squawks before I was finally admitted.
• Although the majority of the staff were helpful and hospitable, one or two staff members were a bit brusque.
"All-in-all, for me, the pros outweighed the cons for me."
Since returning, I noticed that kimhe recommended the Hotel Jazz, just a few blocks from where I stayed. It seemed like a great option!
http://www.hoteljazz.com/default-en.html
"I spent 5 nights in a single with a (tiny!) balcony at the Hotel Ginebra in late May. Although I have mixed reactions about my stay (because of the mix of pros and cons), I thought the pros outweighed the cons and think staying here was a good choice for me.
"Pros:
• The location, overlooking the Placa de Catalunya, meant a certain level of noise at certain times of days, but also meant ready access by foot, metro, or bus to just about anywhere one might want to go in Barcelona.
• Even if it was tiny, I loved my little balcony!
• Although the breakfast buffet was not extensive, it wasn’t limited to absolute basics. For example, it included a nice selection of cheeses. For a small and very inexpensive hotel, I was favorably impressed.
• The bathroom was spotlessly clean and was cleaned daily (as was the room), had a decent amount of counter space, and offered good water pressure and temperature.
• The room included some welcome accoutrements: a hot water kettle and basket with beverage essentials; a mini-fridge (empty); a safe; free wifi.
• At the end of my first long day in Barcelona, I heard a knock on the door – there was a staff member, holding a tray with a split of cava, champagne glass, and selection of chocolates – a welcome gift!
Absolutely unexpected and so VERY welcome!• The hotel kindly accommodated a request I placed in advance of my stay to hold a suitcase starting a day before my check-in. (I passed through Barcelona on my way to an overnight stay elsewhere.)
• Compared to other hotels in the area, I thought the value VERY hard to beat.
"Cons:
• My single was oddly shaped. The only way to get to the tiny balcony was to either roll over the single bed or – for those of us who are flexible enough – to contort one’s body through the limited space to the balcony door.
• This room was decorated with an appalling eye – the clash of discordant colors and incompatible patterns produced in me a strongly visceral negative response.
• My initial entry to the hotel was not welcoming – I pressed the bell, only to hear an indecipherabl gutteral response, which was repeated several times before I was buzzed in, and then, after I reached the floor on which the hotel is located, I encountered another series of incomprehensible squawks before I was finally admitted.
• Although the majority of the staff were helpful and hospitable, one or two staff members were a bit brusque.
"All-in-all, for me, the pros outweighed the cons for me."
Since returning, I noticed that kimhe recommended the Hotel Jazz, just a few blocks from where I stayed. It seemed like a great option!
http://www.hoteljazz.com/default-en.html
Jun 29th, 2015, 10:19 PM
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kja, this is a wonderful and well written report! Thank you. I am sure I will be reading it several times as we plan our next "adventure." It was nice to hear someone else take our attitude of most experiences as we travel! And your line about the not having someone in the passenger seat praying for their life - that is oftentimes me...
So glad it was such a great trip for you.
So glad it was such a great trip for you.
Jun 30th, 2015, 02:05 PM
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@kja Thanks so much for posting your hotel information. I have narrowed down my hotels to 4. Hotel Jazz seems nice but probably a bit out of my range.
I love your report. I am getting so excited. I am going to book Sagrada Familia and some other bits and pieces.
I love your report. I am getting so excited. I am going to book Sagrada Familia and some other bits and pieces.
Jun 30th, 2015, 02:25 PM
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kja,
I've just started reading through your trip report and have bookmarked it to catch up on when I get home from our current trip.
My husband is a great fan of Romanesque architecture - so much so that when he went on holiday a few years a go with my brother and a friend to Bilbao they started calling him Romanescu! Anyway, we both loved the frescoes at the Museo Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, what an extraordinarily rich heritage and so beautifully preserved and displayed. After our visit there we've thought about a trip to see the churches in situ. I'm completely unfamiliar with the names or areas, but your report and enthusiasm could be a starting point for us. Thanks again.
I've just started reading through your trip report and have bookmarked it to catch up on when I get home from our current trip.
My husband is a great fan of Romanesque architecture - so much so that when he went on holiday a few years a go with my brother and a friend to Bilbao they started calling him Romanescu! Anyway, we both loved the frescoes at the Museo Nacional d’Art de Catalunya, what an extraordinarily rich heritage and so beautifully preserved and displayed. After our visit there we've thought about a trip to see the churches in situ. I'm completely unfamiliar with the names or areas, but your report and enthusiasm could be a starting point for us. Thanks again.
Jun 30th, 2015, 04:38 PM
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@ nanael – Thank you for your kind words! It WAS a great trip, and I remain grateful to all the Fodorites who helped me plan and hone my journey.
I must admit that I do NOT make a good passenger – I find it hard to hide the white knuckles or suppress the gasps. ;-) So if you are the passenger during your time in this area, BYH and good luck! Maybe drugs are an option?
@ kelsey – Again, I’m glad you’ve found my words of help. I am absolutely sure that you are going to have a wonderful time, too!
Yes, by all means, reserve the Sagrada Familia in advance! FWIW, I booked a visit with a guide and a visit to the Nativity Tower(s). I got there in plenty of time, took a long look at the Nativity Façade and then roamed the interior until time for my tour. I don’t usually like guided tours, but had read so many favorable comments that I decided to try – and I was glad I did! The guide was very knowledgeable and able to answer several questions I had. I then went up the Nativity Tower – the one you can reach by elevator, but then descend by stairs. Unfortunately, I ended up behind a couple that had difficulty: The woman, who was in front, came to a point where she refused to take even one step forward unless her husband moved ahead of her, but the stairs were too narrow for him to do so. That must have been so very hard for her! And him, too! He eventually helped her to a point where there was a bit of a corner, so he could get ahead, and once they got to a wider point, he helped her step aside enough for me and others to pass. After I descended, more than willing to spend more time in the Sagrada Familia, I rented the audio guide, and was pleasantly surprised out how little overlap there was with the guided tour – much of the general information was, of course, the same, but the specific examples and additional details were sufficiently different that I felt it well worthwhile. (If I had to choose one, I’d probably go with the person and the opportunity to ask questions, but neither is a bad choice IMO.) I lingered in the interior a bit longer, spent some time outside the Passion Façade, visited the “school” and museum, and then went to the shop. Do note that I wasn’t a COMPLETE fanatic: I decided against visiting the Passion Tower. ;-)
@ welltraveledbrit – I hope you are enjoying Helsinki and Berlin as much as I did! I urge you to consider visiting the Pergamon, even if much is closed and you have a long wait, and please give a nod to Nerfertiti for me.
Aren’t the Romanesque frescoes in the Museo Nacional d’Art de Catalunya awesome?!? I don’t know if you noticed, but there is a sculptural group from one of those same Romanesque churches in that museum, from Santa Maria de Taüll; I thought it outstanding. With an interest in Romanesque architecture, I would heartily recommend a visit to the Valle de Boi. Actually, I’d recommend it even if you didn’t have that interest – it is a beautiful part of the world! I was very pleased with my decision to stay in Taüll, so you might want to give that some thought.
I must admit that I do NOT make a good passenger – I find it hard to hide the white knuckles or suppress the gasps. ;-) So if you are the passenger during your time in this area, BYH and good luck! Maybe drugs are an option?
@ kelsey – Again, I’m glad you’ve found my words of help. I am absolutely sure that you are going to have a wonderful time, too!
Yes, by all means, reserve the Sagrada Familia in advance! FWIW, I booked a visit with a guide and a visit to the Nativity Tower(s). I got there in plenty of time, took a long look at the Nativity Façade and then roamed the interior until time for my tour. I don’t usually like guided tours, but had read so many favorable comments that I decided to try – and I was glad I did! The guide was very knowledgeable and able to answer several questions I had. I then went up the Nativity Tower – the one you can reach by elevator, but then descend by stairs. Unfortunately, I ended up behind a couple that had difficulty: The woman, who was in front, came to a point where she refused to take even one step forward unless her husband moved ahead of her, but the stairs were too narrow for him to do so. That must have been so very hard for her! And him, too! He eventually helped her to a point where there was a bit of a corner, so he could get ahead, and once they got to a wider point, he helped her step aside enough for me and others to pass. After I descended, more than willing to spend more time in the Sagrada Familia, I rented the audio guide, and was pleasantly surprised out how little overlap there was with the guided tour – much of the general information was, of course, the same, but the specific examples and additional details were sufficiently different that I felt it well worthwhile. (If I had to choose one, I’d probably go with the person and the opportunity to ask questions, but neither is a bad choice IMO.) I lingered in the interior a bit longer, spent some time outside the Passion Façade, visited the “school” and museum, and then went to the shop. Do note that I wasn’t a COMPLETE fanatic: I decided against visiting the Passion Tower. ;-)
@ welltraveledbrit – I hope you are enjoying Helsinki and Berlin as much as I did!
I urge you to consider visiting the Pergamon, even if much is closed and you have a long wait, and please give a nod to Nerfertiti for me. Aren’t the Romanesque frescoes in the Museo Nacional d’Art de Catalunya awesome?!? I don’t know if you noticed, but there is a sculptural group from one of those same Romanesque churches in that museum, from Santa Maria de Taüll; I thought it outstanding. With an interest in Romanesque architecture, I would heartily recommend a visit to the Valle de Boi. Actually, I’d recommend it even if you didn’t have that interest – it is a beautiful part of the world! I was very pleased with my decision to stay in Taüll, so you might want to give that some thought.
Jul 18th, 2015, 10:33 AM
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We are back from our visit to Spain (and France/Lourdes) and I was able to incorporate several sights I gleaned from your planning threads and trip report, so THANKS! We absolutely loved the Valle de Boi. We spent 2 nights in Taüll at the Rantiner, which gave us time to have a lovely hike in the National Park and for me to explore 5 of the churches (the brochure with opening times is available online, so I printed it before we left. Even so, I got a bit mixed up and missed some opportunities to see another church or two). We did eat at El Caliu and loved our meal.
Sep 30th, 2015, 09:54 PM
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Although a bit late...thanks for your mentions!! What an incredible trip...in fact I think I´m going to profit from your knowledge to prepare a similar trip on my way to western Spain. Thanks very much for all your info and for your appreciation of my country!!! I´d had loved to meet you in Bilbao1
Sep 30th, 2015, 10:26 PM
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@ mikelg -- I'd have loved to meet you, too! But even without that pleasure, I benefited enormously from your patient responses to my MANY questions and the incredible generosity with which you (and others) shared information about your awesome part of an amazing country. I know that I saw some wonderful things that I would have skipped without your advice, and as hard as it was to skip some things, I did so with greater confidence because your words helped me sort out my priorities.
Eskerrik asko, Mikel!
Eskerrik asko, Mikel!
Nov 11th, 2015, 05:35 PM
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I just finished reading this and omg wow just wow, your trip was incredible...superbly done with kja precision! I especially loved the San Sebastian and La Rioja portions as it brought back some of our own memories. I love how you utilized all forms of transpo including a little boat to Donibane. Will be referring to this in the future for the many places we didn't get to, just full of good stuff... and there will be a next time especially in San Sebastian.
By the way, I adopted the sunrise mimosas from joannyc which was a huge hit and happy to read you guys did it too! Thank you for this.
By the way, I adopted the sunrise mimosas from joannyc which was a huge hit and happy to read you guys did it too! Thank you for this.
Nov 11th, 2015, 07:07 PM
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Hi, tessietoes – thanks so much for checking in! My trip was, indeed, incredible, and I still find daily reasons to smile about something I saw or did on this trip -- some reminder of how very fortunate I was to visit this amazing part of the world.
As I recall, we were simultaneously planning partially overlapping trips – I trust you enjoyed yours?
If it were the morning, I would raise a mimosa to you (and joannyc and rialtogrl); instead, I toast you with a glass of the lovely Rioja I am having with tonight’s meal.
As I recall, we were simultaneously planning partially overlapping trips – I trust you enjoyed yours?
If it were the morning, I would raise a mimosa to you (and joannyc and rialtogrl); instead, I toast you with a glass of the lovely Rioja I am having with tonight’s meal.
Nov 11th, 2015, 08:28 PM
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@ joannyc -- I envision a growing number of travelers stumbling about Europe (or elsewhere!) after morning mimosas -- and I smile, even as the image causes me a frisson of alarm! ;-)
Nov 20th, 2015, 04:40 PM
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Hi, Kittenzen -
I didn't have difficulty parking, but note that I made arrangements for parking in advance for all the cities in which I stayed that were along the coast. I think parking in those locations -- Santillana del Mar, Santander, Bilbao, and San Sebastian -- would have been much more challenging (and more expensive) to find on the fly.
I didn't have any problem with theft, but made a choice to live with the risk when I had luggage in the car. I took the basic precautions, which include:
- Don’t ever leave anything in the car that can be seen through its windows
- ALWAYS keep key documents (including your passport), cash, and bank cards with you (preferably in a under-the-clothes passport pouch, with only what you need for the day outside of that pouch), and be sure that that pouch also has a copy of any key documents you might need on one or more days
- Don’t ever move things from the interior to the trunk in the place that you will leave the car – do that somewhere else, even if it means pulling off the road briefly a mile or so from your destination
- Try to park in a well lighted area where other people might have eyes-on (not so much because they might act, but because their presence might discourage thieves)
- If possible, park your car in a way that would make it difficult for thieves, for example, consider backing the car up to a wall to make it difficult to open the trunk or remove anything from it
- Be sure you know how to contact your rental car agency and insurance agency as soon as possible after any incursion
- Only leave your car with things in it if you are willing to come back and find that they are gone
I booked all of my lodging in advance, mostly using booking.com with a few through the parador system and a few through their own websites. All were cancellable with 24 hours notice. I prefer to book in advance (as long as I can cancel) -- I like finding the places that suit my needs and interests, and I like knowing where I'm going and how to get from there to sites and restaurants (etc.); I don't like "wasting" time on a trip in trying to find suitable accommodation or settling for something that does not meet my needs because I can't find anything I can afford. Not everyone agrees!
Hope that helps!
I didn't have difficulty parking, but note that I made arrangements for parking in advance for all the cities in which I stayed that were along the coast. I think parking in those locations -- Santillana del Mar, Santander, Bilbao, and San Sebastian -- would have been much more challenging (and more expensive) to find on the fly.
I didn't have any problem with theft, but made a choice to live with the risk when I had luggage in the car. I took the basic precautions, which include:
- Don’t ever leave anything in the car that can be seen through its windows
- ALWAYS keep key documents (including your passport), cash, and bank cards with you (preferably in a under-the-clothes passport pouch, with only what you need for the day outside of that pouch), and be sure that that pouch also has a copy of any key documents you might need on one or more days
- Don’t ever move things from the interior to the trunk in the place that you will leave the car – do that somewhere else, even if it means pulling off the road briefly a mile or so from your destination
- Try to park in a well lighted area where other people might have eyes-on (not so much because they might act, but because their presence might discourage thieves)
- If possible, park your car in a way that would make it difficult for thieves, for example, consider backing the car up to a wall to make it difficult to open the trunk or remove anything from it
- Be sure you know how to contact your rental car agency and insurance agency as soon as possible after any incursion
- Only leave your car with things in it if you are willing to come back and find that they are gone
I booked all of my lodging in advance, mostly using booking.com with a few through the parador system and a few through their own websites. All were cancellable with 24 hours notice. I prefer to book in advance (as long as I can cancel) -- I like finding the places that suit my needs and interests, and I like knowing where I'm going and how to get from there to sites and restaurants (etc.); I don't like "wasting" time on a trip in trying to find suitable accommodation or settling for something that does not meet my needs because I can't find anything I can afford. Not everyone agrees!
Hope that helps!
Jan 6th, 2016, 08:06 PM
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Wonderful report! Northern Spain is so beautifully unspoiled, so diverse, gorgeous beaches, and breathtaking mountain passes, not to mention the best pastries in the world so far! Delicious food, cheeses I'm still dreaming of, green vistas, rocky coastlines, and a different culture from the rest of Spain, really.
I really loved northern Spain, I love the people, I love how they stay up late, they love excitement, they are so accommodating. The seafood we had was so fresh and delicious! Can't say I'm a big fan of salad with iceberg lettuce, wimpy asparagus, boiled egg, tuna and olives, although my daughter-in-law, Spanish heritage, thought she had died and gone to heaven. Veg = roasted red peppers. Good thing I like them. ��
Found the people at Valdecoro very unfriendly, not sure why, but Potes itself very photogenic.
Among my faves, Comillas and San Sebastián. From Bilbao we went to Sevilla.
Although I was really looking forward to Santillana del Mar, I found it felt strangely plopped in the middle of a land where it didn't belong.
Thanks for the great memories. I am slightly envious of all that you get to see, travelling alone, unencumbered, and not having to play tour guide to the rest of your party.
I really loved northern Spain, I love the people, I love how they stay up late, they love excitement, they are so accommodating. The seafood we had was so fresh and delicious! Can't say I'm a big fan of salad with iceberg lettuce, wimpy asparagus, boiled egg, tuna and olives, although my daughter-in-law, Spanish heritage, thought she had died and gone to heaven. Veg = roasted red peppers. Good thing I like them. ��
Found the people at Valdecoro very unfriendly, not sure why, but Potes itself very photogenic.
Among my faves, Comillas and San Sebastián. From Bilbao we went to Sevilla.
Although I was really looking forward to Santillana del Mar, I found it felt strangely plopped in the middle of a land where it didn't belong.
Thanks for the great memories. I am slightly envious of all that you get to see, travelling alone, unencumbered, and not having to play tour guide to the rest of your party.
