Folegandros Fotos: Metaxi Mas TR pt. 5 finale
Jan 24th, 2022, 06:39 AM
#42
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As promised, here is the edible component of this TR: a recipe for 'kalasouna'. Known as the 'Saturday Pie', this cheese-onion pie apparently has other names, including sourotenia and tyrenia. Recipe is courtesy of Anemomilos.
Ingredients:
-600 grams souroto feta cheese (once considered illegal due to lack of pasteurization)
-2 grated onions
-2 beaten eggs
-salt/pepper to taste
-yogurt to taste
-1/2 kg flour
-1 glass hot water
-50 grams butter
-1 tsp dry yeast plus same amount of salt
-50ml extra virgin olive oil
Method
Dough--work all ingredients together til elastic, then leave dough somewhere warm and dry for 1 hour to rise.
Filling-mix all together.
Pie: divide pastry in half and roll out twin sheets. Oil a deep oven dish then place one of the sheets on bottom.
Spread filling out evenly then cover with second twin sheet. Oil again. Preheat oven and bake @190 degrees C for an hour til the pastry is golden.
Endahksi!
Ingredients:
-600 grams souroto feta cheese (once considered illegal due to lack of pasteurization)
-2 grated onions
-2 beaten eggs
-salt/pepper to taste
-yogurt to taste
-1/2 kg flour
-1 glass hot water
-50 grams butter
-1 tsp dry yeast plus same amount of salt
-50ml extra virgin olive oil
Method
Dough--work all ingredients together til elastic, then leave dough somewhere warm and dry for 1 hour to rise.
Filling-mix all together.
Pie: divide pastry in half and roll out twin sheets. Oil a deep oven dish then place one of the sheets on bottom.
Spread filling out evenly then cover with second twin sheet. Oil again. Preheat oven and bake @190 degrees C for an hour til the pastry is golden.
Endahksi!
Feb 16th, 2022, 10:26 AM
#43
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So time to wrap up this Folegandros dual-journey, and with it our Metaxi Mas TR. I would dearly loved to have posted before-and-after pairings of those foto recipients, but we are still struggling with Coolscanner. Maybe some day, along with a selection of audio recordings from '92. Anyway, a final 4 fotos followed by a scattered slew of final thoughts, then a Conclusion.
Kafenion owner Manolis Beniepe (in middle) was one Folegandriote whose portrait I'd taken back in '92. Then I mailed him a copy six weeks later. Shown here in 2014, he agreed to pass along my '92 portrait of his friend Achilles. Poor Achilles was then on his deathbed but was still able to later relay his thanks back to us.
My Greek was too weak to verify whether this Ano Meria elder, was in fact the same 'Nikos Papadapoulos' with whom I once spent a pleasant visit back in '92. Nikos was well-respected, a former WWII pilot and father of Nikos-the-taverna-owner. In '92, I'd deliberately posed Nikos and wife in front of their wall-mounted, war-era wedding shot, in order to achieve the Before-and-After effect. Their elderly neighbours lived in a semi-cave. Nikos' business card read: 'Beekeeper ('melisses'), feeder of birds.'
In honour of Minoans and Zebecs everywhere. A 'zebec' (zee-bek) is in fact an ancient type of Mediterranean 3-masted ship.
A succinct summary from Anna Work, Dane-born sociologist who owns the excellent Ampelos Hotel on the outskirts of Hora, along with husband Fotis and son Thodoris: "It is impossible for Folegandros to remain static. Change will come. Outsiders take something away from here, but they also serve as links to outer world. Both parties benefit from the interaction. But too many tourists here could be a danger to the lifestyle."
Kafenion owner Manolis Beniepe (in middle) was one Folegandriote whose portrait I'd taken back in '92. Then I mailed him a copy six weeks later. Shown here in 2014, he agreed to pass along my '92 portrait of his friend Achilles. Poor Achilles was then on his deathbed but was still able to later relay his thanks back to us.
My Greek was too weak to verify whether this Ano Meria elder, was in fact the same 'Nikos Papadapoulos' with whom I once spent a pleasant visit back in '92. Nikos was well-respected, a former WWII pilot and father of Nikos-the-taverna-owner. In '92, I'd deliberately posed Nikos and wife in front of their wall-mounted, war-era wedding shot, in order to achieve the Before-and-After effect. Their elderly neighbours lived in a semi-cave. Nikos' business card read: 'Beekeeper ('melisses'), feeder of birds.'
In honour of Minoans and Zebecs everywhere. A 'zebec' (zee-bek) is in fact an ancient type of Mediterranean 3-masted ship.
A succinct summary from Anna Work, Dane-born sociologist who owns the excellent Ampelos Hotel on the outskirts of Hora, along with husband Fotis and son Thodoris: "It is impossible for Folegandros to remain static. Change will come. Outsiders take something away from here, but they also serve as links to outer world. Both parties benefit from the interaction. But too many tourists here could be a danger to the lifestyle."
Feb 16th, 2022, 11:44 AM
#44
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A SCATTERED SLEW OF FINAL THOUGHTS: impressions, tips plus factual stuff
-the powerful local man who withdrew his granddaughter from gymnasium (high school) a mere month prior to graduation, but eventually relented after the school sent their prettiest young teacher to plead their case; that granddaughter is now the current Folegandros mayor.
-Folegandros goat meat is valued for its saltier taste, the result of seawinds crossing back and forth over the isle's vegetation.
-Latinate surnames now reflecting the the gene pool, after Venetians settled here following the earlier Cretan re-population: Gerardi, Danassi and Lizardou *see local photographer George Lizardou's fantastic Folegandros photos.
-the humorous moment when Mrs Z and I showed one elder our '92 portraits, hoping that she could now steer us to those folks; she examined each shot while murmuring about individual subjects, "She is my friend...she too is my friend...she is not my friend..."
-every time that we mentioned one particular guy's name to locals, they made the 'raising bottle to guzzle down' hand-gesture to indicate his hopeless boozer reputation: 'good luck in finding him sober.' Locals claimed that he'd been 'the real Zorba.'
-the other local codger who was obsessed with all things 'American cowboy'; he subscribed to magazines that specialized in such.
-Folegandros paid no regional taxes during the austerity period 2009-14.
-locals use the Beaufort Scale to measure wind strength (To 'Baforia'); if memory serves any rating '7' or above shuts down local ferries and sometimes buses. On the morning after that aforementioned BIG STORM in '92, I looked like a death-row inmate whom they couldn't electrocute despite several attempts, after the Thermogas propane heater in my new hotel room had exploded. The winds were so strong that authorities had to rescue donkeys and small children bearing Lent kites from treetops. A tip for arriving by *Seajet hovercraft on windy days: buy a ticket for the back row and also take Dramamine or Gravol (some use ginger) beforehand. *Speedrunner and Blue Star boats also have a good rep.
-seriously, there are sometimes donkey shortages on the isle, real logistical problems that hamstring construction projects both small and local, plus BIG and from outside.
-the Hora cafe 'K.Piata' once had a waitress who later made her name as a leading folk singer. Having spent so much time inside back in '92, she as a worker, me as a tourist, both of our clothes smelled of nicotine, despite each being non-smokers.
-the nearby cafe Nicola' has the best piped-in music by far, try walking by just after sunrise and you might catch their playing some tasteful classical pieces or world music or flute or...
-the Macedonian work crew who were installing underground phone cables in Hora back in '92, wore no protective eyewear as they jack-hammered for 6 solid months; they called me 'Canada'.
-one local man had a sister who'd moved to Montreal (Mrs Z's home town) 40 years earlier, and we got the impression that she'd never returned.
-the other humorous moment in '92 when an Ano Meria woman, kind Dzouani Papadopoulos, toured me through her farm; with no English, she pointed to certain items then made a sound to indicate its origins, "MOOO!!.....BAAAAAH!!.....SNORT SNORT...ETC." I'd sometimes responded with sympa farm noises, having been born on a farm myself. Thus, me pointing to something: "SNORT SNORT!?" accompanied by a hand gesture or two. Her (nodding) :"Snort snort!"
-Fotis Papadopoulos has long been the isle's go-to 'Leading Sophisticate/Arty/Intelligentsia Figure', a worldly man full of integrity and knowledge. He once told me something interesting about the Sixties: "I joined the 1967 boycott of the Rolling Stones Athens concert, a show that was put on despite the fact there was a military junta. And I never forgave in my heart singer Nana Mouskouri after she performed at a general's feast then as well. That was a catastrophe for our culture."
-*the very final foto that Mrs Z and I were able to successfully hand-deliver in 2014, had a fittingly-dramatic climax. It was a great shot that I'd once taken in '92 of the isle's most Senior religious cleric, roly-poly and bearded Papa Costas, standing with a trio of local women in the harbour. In 2014, Mrs Z and I had tried and tried to locate that holy man, to no avail. Eventually on our final day on the isle, and after a last hike through Ano Meria, we surrendered and gave up. I chose one of those remote chapels to leave the foto conspicuously inside of. We both prayed that maybe some day, a local might see the foto then take it to Papa Costas or his family. Mrs Z and I then headed towards the bus stop, which was right by the main parish church. While waiting on the bus, we wandered into the church complex and noticed an elderly fellow repairing his bright yellow fishing ropes. IT WAS PAPA COSTAS HIMSELF!! Again, our Greek was too weak to explain the situation to him, so after 10 exasperating minutes of attempted communication, I left Mrs Z with the old man and huffed back up the hilly road to that abovementioned chapel. After retrieving that photograph, I rushed back to the big church to proudly place that shot in his hand. NOW, he understood and smiled broadly. A tear came to his eye. For us, to bring some small happiness....a magic that a name would stain.
Next: Conclusion
-the powerful local man who withdrew his granddaughter from gymnasium (high school) a mere month prior to graduation, but eventually relented after the school sent their prettiest young teacher to plead their case; that granddaughter is now the current Folegandros mayor.
-Folegandros goat meat is valued for its saltier taste, the result of seawinds crossing back and forth over the isle's vegetation.
-Latinate surnames now reflecting the the gene pool, after Venetians settled here following the earlier Cretan re-population: Gerardi, Danassi and Lizardou *see local photographer George Lizardou's fantastic Folegandros photos.
-the humorous moment when Mrs Z and I showed one elder our '92 portraits, hoping that she could now steer us to those folks; she examined each shot while murmuring about individual subjects, "She is my friend...she too is my friend...she is not my friend..."
-every time that we mentioned one particular guy's name to locals, they made the 'raising bottle to guzzle down' hand-gesture to indicate his hopeless boozer reputation: 'good luck in finding him sober.' Locals claimed that he'd been 'the real Zorba.'
-the other local codger who was obsessed with all things 'American cowboy'; he subscribed to magazines that specialized in such.
-Folegandros paid no regional taxes during the austerity period 2009-14.
-locals use the Beaufort Scale to measure wind strength (To 'Baforia'); if memory serves any rating '7' or above shuts down local ferries and sometimes buses. On the morning after that aforementioned BIG STORM in '92, I looked like a death-row inmate whom they couldn't electrocute despite several attempts, after the Thermogas propane heater in my new hotel room had exploded. The winds were so strong that authorities had to rescue donkeys and small children bearing Lent kites from treetops. A tip for arriving by *Seajet hovercraft on windy days: buy a ticket for the back row and also take Dramamine or Gravol (some use ginger) beforehand. *Speedrunner and Blue Star boats also have a good rep.
-seriously, there are sometimes donkey shortages on the isle, real logistical problems that hamstring construction projects both small and local, plus BIG and from outside.
-the Hora cafe 'K.Piata' once had a waitress who later made her name as a leading folk singer. Having spent so much time inside back in '92, she as a worker, me as a tourist, both of our clothes smelled of nicotine, despite each being non-smokers.
-the nearby cafe Nicola' has the best piped-in music by far, try walking by just after sunrise and you might catch their playing some tasteful classical pieces or world music or flute or...
-the Macedonian work crew who were installing underground phone cables in Hora back in '92, wore no protective eyewear as they jack-hammered for 6 solid months; they called me 'Canada'.
-one local man had a sister who'd moved to Montreal (Mrs Z's home town) 40 years earlier, and we got the impression that she'd never returned.
-the other humorous moment in '92 when an Ano Meria woman, kind Dzouani Papadopoulos, toured me through her farm; with no English, she pointed to certain items then made a sound to indicate its origins, "MOOO!!.....BAAAAAH!!.....SNORT SNORT...ETC." I'd sometimes responded with sympa farm noises, having been born on a farm myself. Thus, me pointing to something: "SNORT SNORT!?" accompanied by a hand gesture or two. Her (nodding) :"Snort snort!"
-Fotis Papadopoulos has long been the isle's go-to 'Leading Sophisticate/Arty/Intelligentsia Figure', a worldly man full of integrity and knowledge. He once told me something interesting about the Sixties: "I joined the 1967 boycott of the Rolling Stones Athens concert, a show that was put on despite the fact there was a military junta. And I never forgave in my heart singer Nana Mouskouri after she performed at a general's feast then as well. That was a catastrophe for our culture."
-*the very final foto that Mrs Z and I were able to successfully hand-deliver in 2014, had a fittingly-dramatic climax. It was a great shot that I'd once taken in '92 of the isle's most Senior religious cleric, roly-poly and bearded Papa Costas, standing with a trio of local women in the harbour. In 2014, Mrs Z and I had tried and tried to locate that holy man, to no avail. Eventually on our final day on the isle, and after a last hike through Ano Meria, we surrendered and gave up. I chose one of those remote chapels to leave the foto conspicuously inside of. We both prayed that maybe some day, a local might see the foto then take it to Papa Costas or his family. Mrs Z and I then headed towards the bus stop, which was right by the main parish church. While waiting on the bus, we wandered into the church complex and noticed an elderly fellow repairing his bright yellow fishing ropes. IT WAS PAPA COSTAS HIMSELF!! Again, our Greek was too weak to explain the situation to him, so after 10 exasperating minutes of attempted communication, I left Mrs Z with the old man and huffed back up the hilly road to that abovementioned chapel. After retrieving that photograph, I rushed back to the big church to proudly place that shot in his hand. NOW, he understood and smiled broadly. A tear came to his eye. For us, to bring some small happiness....a magic that a name would stain.
Next: Conclusion
Feb 16th, 2022, 11:57 AM
#45
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An ocean of 'efharistos' for wading through this overlong TR. We trust that our passion for these isles showed throughout. We also sincerely hope that against all odds, your own 'most special locations' will still retain their charms for you on return visits.
Will Folegandros lose any of its tranquil uniqueness with continued tourism development? Can its special balance and intangible qualities be maintained as the older Ano Meria residents pass away? We believe that Folegandros will be just fine. Progress has its upsides. The isle where folks used to sleep 5 to a room now has a helicopter landing pad (rental rate in 2014=900 euros). Folegandros will remain a good place to pursue happiness, as long as visitors arrive with an attitude conducive to mixing the old with the new.
Bounatsa and stow kalow. (calm seas and stay well)
"We are young, wandering the face of the earth,
wondering what our dreams might be worth.
Knowing that we're only immortal
for a limited time."
(Johnny Shandoo & the Pyramids).
Will Folegandros lose any of its tranquil uniqueness with continued tourism development? Can its special balance and intangible qualities be maintained as the older Ano Meria residents pass away? We believe that Folegandros will be just fine. Progress has its upsides. The isle where folks used to sleep 5 to a room now has a helicopter landing pad (rental rate in 2014=900 euros). Folegandros will remain a good place to pursue happiness, as long as visitors arrive with an attitude conducive to mixing the old with the new.
Bounatsa and stow kalow. (calm seas and stay well)
"We are young, wandering the face of the earth,
wondering what our dreams might be worth.
Knowing that we're only immortal
for a limited time."
(Johnny Shandoo & the Pyramids).
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Marty
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