millie2112

love the pics.. goregous flowers

nyse

CiB! From a plumbing supply bathtub to Tiffany necklace ~ so clever and beautiful.
I had no idea.

Nikki

I haven’t been looking at trip reports for a few years since I haven’t been traveling but I am easing my way back into thinking about traveling and this is getting the juices flowing. Thanks.

macdogmom

We had a rooftop terrace at our hotel in Paris and ours was packed with local smoking up a storm. Your rooftop looks a lot more peaceful. Beautiful pictures and your play experience sounds lovely. Good play and good champagne. We didn’t have time for a play this last visit, but still remember fondly the play about the Kinks, sunny Afternoon, and getting to sit at small tables in the audience and getting drinks served.

denisea

That roof top terrace needs a bottle of Champagne !! Looks amazing.

stokebailey

How fun. Chelsea in Bloom! So beautiful.

Sunday's New York Times Magazine had a question for the Ethicist column:
"​​Husband flies First class, puts me in coach. Is this fair?" Grrr. I'd like to slap the husband, who tells her that their 12- and 16-year-old children wouldn't be comfortable sitting in coach without her. Or what if he takes it earlier flight, so inequity would not bother her? I did not love the Ethicist's reply

I irrationally feel that the universe owes me one business class seat to London, but the dilemma of acting like that husband. I am hoping to take one or both of my brothers to London this fall, and no way could afford to treat all of us so well. I have looked at the AA vacations site, and have seen only spartan single rooms with available upgrades. And then, the RT flights from STL are $3,450 just to stay in Slough or East Grinstead. Oh, well. This solves my ethical question. Just suck it up.

I love your foot path story. My older daughter and I once took a path from Bakewell to Haddon Hall, wearing skirts, and found that the path ran through a long stretch of overhanging stinging nettle.

janisj

The stinging nettles were the least of my problems

Sunday May 21: V&A, Inside Harrods before opening (WHAT a difference!), Elystan Street, Tate Modern - or not

This was my 'take it easy' day - The V&A and the Members Room, have a relaxed Sunday Lunch and fit in one of the Tates. Woke up about 6AM and decided I'd try to book a dry bar appointment -- Selfridges -- nothing available, Harvey Nicks - nada, Harrods -- 11:15 or 4:30. Booked 11:15 which would slightly change plans for the V&A. Took a long bubble bath and walked up to South Kensington and went straight up to the members room. Had a glass of Prosecco then a croissant and tea. By then it was time to walk up to Harrods so Donatello would have to wait til after I was primped and styled.

Now -- I didn't realize Harrods doesn't open til noon. They do allow entry for hair or spa appointments, and for 'browsing' from 11:30 but they can't open the tills or sell anything until 12PM. Went around to the Hans Crescent entrance and the doorman let me in and directed me downstairs to the drybar. They greeted me by name and 20 minutes later I was a new girl. Only problem - I couldn't pay because it was only about 11:35. That's when I learned about the browsing - they told me to go explore and come back down after noon. I walked through the Food Halls, explored the Halcyon fine art gallery -- all with almost no one around. Then I went down to the lower ground floor headed back towards the drybar. Discovered the Halcyon Days enamels had been moved to a beautiful new space. Having so many of the enamel boxes I tend to have sales resistance unless it is something special. They tried to interest me in a large limited edition of QEII in her Order of the Thistle robes outdoors with heather, a stream and beautiful Balmoral scenery - but it was a bit above my pay grade (still think about it though ). It was based on this photograph https://www.nationalgalleries.org/ar...artists/130821 I did buy one small music box that was on clearance. The VAT savings was a bit more than the cost of postage. (I bought it at straight up 12PM London time and DHL attempted to deliver it Tuesday at 10 AM California time -- when I was just leaving the Flower Show -- THAT is fast)

Anyway -- now that its past noon I go back to the drybar . . . and they couldn't get the charge card terminal to work. I only had about £10 cash on me so I offered to get some ££ from a cash machine but they waved me off -- didn't charge me the £35! I tipped the stylist and went upstairs to head back to the V&A . . . I looked down at my shoes and while I had managed to clean them up, they could do with a good polish. I figured there had to be a shoeshine somewhere in Harrods -- but surprisingly just the cobbler (called Shoe Heaven) up on the 5th floor which needs advance booking and really does mainly shoe repairs and re-builds. When I told them my sad story about being stuck in the mud -- they whisked my shoes away and 10 minutes later they reappeared gleaming. And they wouldn't let me pay . . . TWICE . on the same day . in bloody Harrods fer crying out loud!

By now it's after 1PM and my lunch booking is for 2:15 so I'll only have maybe 35 minutes for the Donatello exhibition (its a 10 min walk up to the V&A and from there a 10 min to Elystan Street so a bit rushed but very doable. In the end I didn't do Donatello any sort of justice but did manage to see a fair bit. The Attis-Amorino is a stunner and probably the star of the show. Not only the beautiful sculptures but his goldsmithing. Maybe saw 1/3 of the exhibit - instead of trying to rush through and take pics too I just bought several postcards.

Time to walk down the Elystan Street - what a lovely meal - and being solo I wasn't sent to Siberia (thought there really aren't any 'Siberian' tables) and had a nice window table.

Started with a glass of champagne. Then an asparagus starter. Now that could sound a bit boring - and I usually fix asparagus once or twice a week during the season. But without doubt this was the best asparagus dish I have ever eaten Asparagus, deep fried egg, truffle cream and roasted hazel nuts. It was sooooooo yummy. Then a very nice fillet of salmon, crushed Jersey Royals, more asparagus, all in a roe and butter sauce, with a glass of chardonnay. An a chocolate/chocolate/chocolate + vanilla ice cream and caramel -- sounds overpowering and rich but it was perfect.


the best asparagus dish ever



Salmon, asparagus & potatoes - wanted to lick the plate



yuuuuummmmmy

It was now time to head to Tate Modern for the Klint/Mondrian . . . I really wanted to see it but I decided I didn't really REALLY want to go all the way across London. It only runs til September so I'll probably miss it but tomorrow I'm moving from morning til after the theatre so decided to stuff it . . .

As I was walking back down Elystan Street to the hotel I saw two super cars driving up the street towards me - each parking on opposite sides of the road in front of a restaurant -- from a distance I wasn't sure but one looked like a Lamborghini, maybe a Huracán . . . but there was no mistaking the other car -- a McLaren! (for non-car-people that is a big deal ) When I got nearer - yes it was a McLaren, with Ayrton Senna's signature on the side. A








Ayrton Senna's signature on the door panel




What is wrong with me (?!) - no photos of Donatello and a whole album of cars

Anyway -- back to the Hotel and up on the roof terrace - ordered a Pimm's and caught up on e-mail and phone messages.

Next Monday May 22 - David Hockney, Lunch in the Coal Yards, Dogs @ The Wallace Collection and Jersey Boys.

SusanP

I'm really enjoying your report. That Elystan Street meal looks fabulous!

zebec

JJ, your take it easy day is something that we all need to be reminded of. Maybe as much-younger travelers we were capable of the go-go-go approach, but nowadays we best observe the need when to downgear. Good for you.
Speaking of gears---that McLaren! Our neighbors out back were car fanatics who named their son 'Ayrton' in honor of. They were an interesting family who chose to live down in Nicaragua while renting out their house here in Toronto.
Your striking asparagus foto is very well-done.

I am done. the londun

bilboburgler

If you google the number plate you can discover a bit more about the vehicle and even report it for bad driving to other aficionados

denisea

We had the same browsing issue on Sunday at Liberty...I didn't get my candles at no charge when the till opened, so well done (twice).
My husband had a great time spotting all the Ferraris, McLarens and the like around our area while we were there. There were some insanely expensive and remarkable vehicles.

nonconformist2

It sounds lovely, and your accommodation choices so far both look amazing.

zebec

Cars.
In Chipping Campden a year ago, we chanced across a wedding spilling out of the smaller of the 2 churches, i.e. the Catholic one. Whoever was getting wed then must've been hella-wealthy.
There were 2 gift-wrapped cars out front: an orange McLaren and a white Rolls. The local seniors shuttle 'Green Tortoise' was blocked by that pair of luxe vehicles. Funny to see that juxtaposition.

JJ, what's next?
I am done. the ribbons

janisj

Thanks everyone. Will try to finish up this weekend??

Monday May 22 - David Hockney, Lunch in the Coal Yards, Dogs @ The Wallace Collection and Jersey Boys.

Have a 10:30 booking for the immersive show David Hockney Bigger & Closer (not smaller & further away) at the Lightroom in the Coal Drops Yard in Kings Cross and later a 2:15 ticket for Portraits of Dogs: From Gainsborough to Hockney at the Wallace Collection. Thought I might have lunch at the Wallace Collection so didn't want a big breakfast. Took the tube up to Kings Cross and just had a croissant and tea at Le Pain Quotidien in St Pancras and headed up into the Coal Drops development.From the program blurb the show was over three years in the making, features 1,408 speakers, 28 projectors and a digital canvas size of approximately 108m pixels. Tech specs aside -- wow - just WOW! Hockney narrates much of the show and it covers his entire career from the 60's up to works created for this show. The entire running take about an hour but it loops continuously. It opens at 10AM and was not at al crowded when I arrived (note to anyone wanting to visit - I'd probably book for 10 or 10:30 AM or in the evening -- it is open late. I was able to get a seat on one of the cubes on the floor but by the time I left just before noon the entire floor was packed and the standing-room balconies were quite crowded. Standing through the entire show wouldn't have been that great)

It really envelops you and I took a fair amount of video which I may or may not figure out how to post them. Here are (a lot) of random stills:

macdogmom

I really loved the show and have been a huge Hockney enthusiast since I was in art school in the mid 70’s. His colors, his sense of whimsy and they way he views the world is just so wonderful. I saw a big retrospective in Bilbao years ago and this was very fun-to be immersed and surrounded by his art with the artist narrating. My only regret is that we went the first morning after we arrived and I was still jet lagged and exhausted. We walked from Convent Garden and that was interesting. I hope it comes to Calif and I would love to see it again. It was very crowded when we got there around 11. Had to wait for seating for the first 10 or 15 minutes. Your second show about dogs sounds interesting!

janisj

Afterwards I wandered through the general Coal Drops area and along the canal for maybe 30 minutes then started to head back through Granary Square towards the station.











Lots of restaurants -- didn't realize there is a Dishoon here now. Next time . . . Reading the menus outside a few places - the Granary Sq Brasserie seemed to have a good selection but I chose it mostly for the attractive/comfy looking outdoor seating. I had no idea it was a member of the ever growing group of Ivy restaurants - should have known when the wine list was headed by 'The Ivy Collection Champagne'. Lordy - there must be at least 15 'Ivy's' just in London and several others up and down the country . . . (just went and counted -- 16 in greater London and 25 others in Eng/Scot/Wales/Ire.)

Anyway - Ivy's and offshoots are generally reliable so I didn't pick wrong. Had a glass of said Champagne and a really good duck liver parfait with caramelized hazelnuts, apricot chutney, brioche, which was quite a generous serving so decided instead of a main course to have another starter -- tempura prawns. Both were good and together made for a substantial-ish lunch.

From Kings Cross I took the tube 'backwards' to Farringdon and caught the Elizabeth Line to Bond Street (Bond Street wasn't yet open when I was there in December -- it is massive). Walked through Selfridges and up to Manchester Square/the Wallace.

Now -- the Guardian hadn't liked the show one little bit - gave it a 1 star rating and even used the s#it word . . . I think their art critic must really hate Edwin Landseer LOL. The Telegraph gave it 5 stars (I wouldn't go quite that far but would give it a strong 4 stars). The title is a bit misleading since it really runs from a Roman sculpture, to Da Vinci drawings to Gainsborough - and yes - the hated Landseer, to Lucien Freud and finally Hockney's adorable dachshunds, Stanley and Boogie. Was a nice exhibition and I did really enjoy it - must not be as refined as Guardian readers

Went back to the hotel to change and had tea up on the roof terrace -- it really has been lovely weather. Definitely not hot and cloudy a few days but never even hinted at rain. Even late evenings I was fine in a light cardigan.

Headed out to Embankment and stopped in Gordon's Wine Bar -- was early enough they weren't booked up. Wasn't famish but wanted something - so had olives, a small cheese board with just brie and schlossberger, some smoked salmon and a glass of Riesling.

From there its a short walk over to the Trafalgar Theatre in Whitehall. Jersey Boys has been running with one cast or another for years but I'd never seen it. What a fun musical. The current cast is talented and their harmonies were terrific. Best of the bunch was probably Peter Nash - Tommy DeVito - who was a real standout. Luke Suri - Frankie Valli - was fine but when singing solo he didn't really have the Valli falsetto down. Singing with the other guys he seemed to nail the high register better -- maybe singing it in harmony with the others is easier??? Anyway -- when the four of them were singing together - closing one's eyes it really did sound like Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons. The whole ensemble was good though. Remarkable the number of major hits they had -- forty top 40's by the group and at least ten during his solo career.

Back to the hotel and another good night's sleep.

Next: Tuesday May 23 - Chelsea Flower Show including Brunch in the on-site Champagne & Seafood Restaurant then out to LHR

janisj

macdogmom: Just saw your post -- wasn't it great!

(I'm maybe going to ask the moderators to edit out your full quote of my post -- this thing is getting loooooong enough without having to wade through it twice )

macdogmom

Yes, I realized that while I was doing it!


I love this one showing the artist at work!

janisj

I haven't found a way to post my videos -- if they were on YoutTube or some other platform it works but not from my phone or laptop

Tuesday May 23 - Chelsea Flower Show including Brunch in the on-site Champagne & Seafood Restaurant then out to LHR

Today will be text light and photo heavy because I really only did one thing attend the Chelsea Flower Show - well plus checking out, having brunch on the show grounds, and heading out to the HI Express at LHR T4

I checked out a little after 8:00, left my bag and had a couple of cups of tea in the Lounge. The hotel is only a 10 minute walk to the show grounds yet none of the staff knew where it was (I did say they all seemed to be Italians ) . In the 15 or 20 minutes I sat in the Lounge with my tea, three different individuals/couples came down and on their way out asked the front desk how to get there. Each time he called to me to give the directions - like I was a native or sump'in

The show runs from 0800 til 2000 so I was in no real hurry but I did want to arrive between 8:30 and 9 since later in the morning the crowds really grow. Tickets are for all day or 3PM til closing - my last visit all I could book was 3PM (yes -- slots totally sell out). While there are many places to eat and drink scattered all over the 70 acres (heck - just the marquee is 8+ acres) the crowds means there are queues (especially at the many Pimm's kiosks) everywhere and food does run low later in the day. So I decided to pre-book brunch or lunch in one of the higher end on-site restaurants so I wouldn't have to worry about it. Ended up booking 11AM brunch at the Champagne & Seafood Restaurant. Good decision

Spent all day wandering around the show so I'll cover brunch with a couple of pix and then just post a LOT of photos from around the show.



Amuse-bouche Spinach, heirloom tomato and Tunworth rerebit (more the size of a full on starter but they called it an amuse-bouche so who am I to argue) . . . and Champagne of course



Smoked salmon, Sussex cream cheese, teeny tiny quail eggs, on toasted hemp seed bread - so pretty and VERY good.



Not Brunch LOL - this is how a whole lot of attendees eat lunch






And an idea of the crowds at 1PM


Guide map of the show

Now . . . flowers flowers flowers (plus a tiny handful of the hundreds of vendors) - didn't take many photos of the show gardens because the crowds were so thick:



I love allium but they don't do well where I live - too hot.



Who knew there were so many colors/colours of calla lily??






Daffy's are such 'happy' flowers






Fuchsias






Chelsea Pensioners enjoying the attention.





Mums



Roses for miles



Absolutely intoxicating



Tulips



and more tulips



This won only a silver-gilt award but I loved it



A topiary designer had this tribute to the Queen in his very large display. Her groom and horse as they were when the cortège passed at Windsor. And a corgy thrown in for good measure. The groom is a friend of this vendor and he was making the rounds of the show attracting quite a bit of attention.



I WANT some driftwood meerkats in my garden LOL


These were large water features -- each tree is a fountain and they were selling like hotcakes . . . EXPENSIVE



Fancy some cattails in your suburban garden?



Even MORE expensive -- need a small garden artwork??

Tulips

Janisj, next time you are in Coal Drops Yard, go to Coal Office; it is wonderful. From the same people as the Palomar. Sit outside on a sunny day.