Five nights in St. Gilgen
Sep 21st, 2009 | 01:38 AM
#1
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Joined: Jan 2003
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Five nights in St. Gilgen
Well, one of the delights of having moved to Bavaria is that a lot of Europe is nearby. Not most of it, but quite a nice chunk.
So, I decided to take a quick trip to St. Gilgen, Austria. I originally planned to go for just about three days, but as I was researching it, I kept having to add a day. I ended up staying for five days, based at the Pension Ferstl, where I paid 48E per night for a single. Here's a link to my review of the PF:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...rian_Alps.html
Since I'm a huge fan of the train system, of course I went by train, which was very easy: train to München, train to Salzburg, bus to St. Gilgen. The regional busses are right next to the train station in Salzburg, so the connections were really seamless. I used the Bavaria Ticket (20E) as far as Salzburg, and the bus was 5E30, so the one-way fare was 25E30, or 51E for the round-trip.
Upon arrival, I just strolled around the town and enjoyed the lakeside area (I am particularly attracted to lakeside destinations). I had arranged to meet a friend I'd met through Trip Advisor, so I met her and her husband and we had coffee and cake at the Cafe Nannerl. We stayed a long time and just chatted and basically shared our life stories! What fun it is to make new friends with so much in common!
The next day, I asked Frau Ferstl about the walk from St. Wolfgang to St. Gilgen, and she said it would take around 2-3 hours, which sounded just perfect. My new friends were taking the Schafbergbahn from St. Wolfgang, so we all took the ferry together at 10.30. The ferry cost 6E30.
The walk could be thought of in three sections: flat from St. Wolfgang to the dock at Falkenstein, the mountain from Falkenstein to Fürberg, and flat again from Fürberg to St. Gilgen. The first part was actually a little boring because some of it was along a small road, with the lake fenced off for private use. The mountain stage was haaaaaarrd And steeeeep. But it was also very pretty, with forest on all sides, and of course it passed the church Falkenstein built right into the mountain side. The downhill was almost as hard as the uphill, as it was all loose, slippery gravel.
I stopped for a wonderful lunch with wine at the restaurant at the lakeside at the Gasthof Fürberg (www.fuerberg.at/index.asp?lng=en); I never knew that gnocchi with cream sauce could be so light!!
The next day, I wasn't feeling well so had a quiet day just milling around the lakeside, watching the crowds, enjoying ice cream. I met my new friends for dinner at the Wirt am Gries, where we had really terrific service and a great meal. I had pork fillets with pumpkin chutney and polenta. It was great!
The next day, I thought to continue my walking tour around the lake by going from St. Wolfgang to Strobl, completing the northern shore. I took the ferry across again, but this time I spent some time walking through town, which was picturesque and busier than St. Gilgen. The walk itself only took about 90 minutes, and at first I didn't like it at all because it was next to a secondary road -- the lake wasn't even visible. (I mean, if I'd wanted to breathe car fumes . . . I'd have been in a car!!) But after about 30 minutes, the walking path broke away from the road and went on the Panorama Walk around a little mound. From here on, it was really pretty on into Strobl.
Strobl is a tiny with a beautiful little lakeside park and harbor. So I had a good lunch with Radler, then sat and read on a bench at the lake's edge until the ferry came to take me back to St. Gilgen.
On my last day, I rented a bike and set off to cover the ground between St. Gilgen and Strobl from the southern side of the lake. It was glorious and my favorite day there!
It only took me about an hour to cover the 12 km, all on a nice paved bike path. Unfortunately, it was next to the road for too much of the time, so that was not wonderful. But it was just exhilarating to be sliding through the Alpine air and enjoying the scenery.
At Strobl, I walked around a bit. I noticed, for one thing, that the houses only had a house number and then the town name, as "45 Strobl" etc. The highest I saw was "425 Strobl."
I had lunch at a different restaurant, then returned on a different route. The lady who had rented the bike recommended a route away from the road, so I tried it. It was great, away from the road and the moderate traffic, and in the fields and forests at the lakeside. But naturally, I got lost in the network of footpaths and trails through the woods and past the camping sites and by the farms . . . naturally! But it was fun and outside and beautiful, so I didn't mind at all. It took me 90 minutes to get back, and believe me, I was wiped out!! I turned in the bike, got an ice cream cone, and sat at a bench at lakeside to soak up the views and the feeling.
And so that was it. I make a full circuit of the lake, though I did it in three stages. It's a gorgeous place, and what a steal, with round-trip transportation at 50E!!
Here is a link to my photos of the area:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...4&l=e66be0b037
So, I decided to take a quick trip to St. Gilgen, Austria. I originally planned to go for just about three days, but as I was researching it, I kept having to add a day. I ended up staying for five days, based at the Pension Ferstl, where I paid 48E per night for a single. Here's a link to my review of the PF:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserR...rian_Alps.html
Since I'm a huge fan of the train system, of course I went by train, which was very easy: train to München, train to Salzburg, bus to St. Gilgen. The regional busses are right next to the train station in Salzburg, so the connections were really seamless. I used the Bavaria Ticket (20E) as far as Salzburg, and the bus was 5E30, so the one-way fare was 25E30, or 51E for the round-trip.
Upon arrival, I just strolled around the town and enjoyed the lakeside area (I am particularly attracted to lakeside destinations). I had arranged to meet a friend I'd met through Trip Advisor, so I met her and her husband and we had coffee and cake at the Cafe Nannerl. We stayed a long time and just chatted and basically shared our life stories! What fun it is to make new friends with so much in common!
The next day, I asked Frau Ferstl about the walk from St. Wolfgang to St. Gilgen, and she said it would take around 2-3 hours, which sounded just perfect. My new friends were taking the Schafbergbahn from St. Wolfgang, so we all took the ferry together at 10.30. The ferry cost 6E30.
The walk could be thought of in three sections: flat from St. Wolfgang to the dock at Falkenstein, the mountain from Falkenstein to Fürberg, and flat again from Fürberg to St. Gilgen. The first part was actually a little boring because some of it was along a small road, with the lake fenced off for private use. The mountain stage was haaaaaarrd And steeeeep. But it was also very pretty, with forest on all sides, and of course it passed the church Falkenstein built right into the mountain side. The downhill was almost as hard as the uphill, as it was all loose, slippery gravel.
I stopped for a wonderful lunch with wine at the restaurant at the lakeside at the Gasthof Fürberg (www.fuerberg.at/index.asp?lng=en); I never knew that gnocchi with cream sauce could be so light!!
The next day, I wasn't feeling well so had a quiet day just milling around the lakeside, watching the crowds, enjoying ice cream. I met my new friends for dinner at the Wirt am Gries, where we had really terrific service and a great meal. I had pork fillets with pumpkin chutney and polenta. It was great!
The next day, I thought to continue my walking tour around the lake by going from St. Wolfgang to Strobl, completing the northern shore. I took the ferry across again, but this time I spent some time walking through town, which was picturesque and busier than St. Gilgen. The walk itself only took about 90 minutes, and at first I didn't like it at all because it was next to a secondary road -- the lake wasn't even visible. (I mean, if I'd wanted to breathe car fumes . . . I'd have been in a car!!) But after about 30 minutes, the walking path broke away from the road and went on the Panorama Walk around a little mound. From here on, it was really pretty on into Strobl.
Strobl is a tiny with a beautiful little lakeside park and harbor. So I had a good lunch with Radler, then sat and read on a bench at the lake's edge until the ferry came to take me back to St. Gilgen.
On my last day, I rented a bike and set off to cover the ground between St. Gilgen and Strobl from the southern side of the lake. It was glorious and my favorite day there!
It only took me about an hour to cover the 12 km, all on a nice paved bike path. Unfortunately, it was next to the road for too much of the time, so that was not wonderful. But it was just exhilarating to be sliding through the Alpine air and enjoying the scenery.
At Strobl, I walked around a bit. I noticed, for one thing, that the houses only had a house number and then the town name, as "45 Strobl" etc. The highest I saw was "425 Strobl."
I had lunch at a different restaurant, then returned on a different route. The lady who had rented the bike recommended a route away from the road, so I tried it. It was great, away from the road and the moderate traffic, and in the fields and forests at the lakeside. But naturally, I got lost in the network of footpaths and trails through the woods and past the camping sites and by the farms . . . naturally! But it was fun and outside and beautiful, so I didn't mind at all. It took me 90 minutes to get back, and believe me, I was wiped out!! I turned in the bike, got an ice cream cone, and sat at a bench at lakeside to soak up the views and the feeling.
And so that was it. I make a full circuit of the lake, though I did it in three stages. It's a gorgeous place, and what a steal, with round-trip transportation at 50E!!
Here is a link to my photos of the area:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...4&l=e66be0b037
Sep 21st, 2009 | 11:17 AM
#2
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,009
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We were in St. Gilgen on the weekend. We arrived Friday a little after lunch time and checked into the Hotel Schernthaner where we also stayed a couple of years ago. The Ferstl is nearby as I recall.
We also met a friend who lives in Vienna. She took the train to Bad Ischl where we met her with our car. We had lunch at the Cafe Zauner and did a little sightseeing.
There were two weddings in St. Gilgen on Saturday. One of the receptions was held at the Fischer Wirt restaurant right on the lake. We had planned to have a light dinner there but were surprised by the hochzeit celebrations! We ended up at one of the nearby gasthofs which was quite good.
On our trip to St. Gilgen a couple of years ago, we also had dinner with this same friend at the Wirt am Gries. I remember it was quite delicious. We also did the Schafbergbahn ride and the paddlewheel steamer from St. Gilgen to St. Wolfgang. I too found St. Wolfgang to be a bit touristy and like St. Gilgen better.
Sounds like we both had a great time in St. Gilgen!
We also met a friend who lives in Vienna. She took the train to Bad Ischl where we met her with our car. We had lunch at the Cafe Zauner and did a little sightseeing.
There were two weddings in St. Gilgen on Saturday. One of the receptions was held at the Fischer Wirt restaurant right on the lake. We had planned to have a light dinner there but were surprised by the hochzeit celebrations! We ended up at one of the nearby gasthofs which was quite good.
On our trip to St. Gilgen a couple of years ago, we also had dinner with this same friend at the Wirt am Gries. I remember it was quite delicious. We also did the Schafbergbahn ride and the paddlewheel steamer from St. Gilgen to St. Wolfgang. I too found St. Wolfgang to be a bit touristy and like St. Gilgen better.
Sounds like we both had a great time in St. Gilgen!
Sep 21st, 2009 | 11:29 AM
#3
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 752
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Thanks so much for your trip report! We are planning a trip to this area for next fall, and I was so happy to read a report about St. Gilgen and the surrounding area. I am definitely bookmarking for reference! I loved your photos!
Sep 21st, 2009 | 09:50 PM
#5
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,502
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Hi all,
Thanks so much for your comments! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
bettyk -- I'm glad you are well after your surgery so you could travel (yes, I've been lurking, lol)! It's too bad we didn't communicate so we could have met on Friday. Well, maybe next time!
s
Thanks so much for your comments! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
bettyk -- I'm glad you are well after your surgery so you could travel (yes, I've been lurking, lol)! It's too bad we didn't communicate so we could have met on Friday. Well, maybe next time!
s
Sep 22nd, 2009 | 05:43 AM
#6
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,009
Likes: 0
swandav, didn't know you were planning a trip to SG. It would have been nice to meet!
The knee has definitely been tested on this trip. I'm afraid it's been bothering me quite a bit, but I wouldn't have missed this for anything!
Today we are in Bamberg and the weather is glorious!
The knee has definitely been tested on this trip. I'm afraid it's been bothering me quite a bit, but I wouldn't have missed this for anything!
Today we are in Bamberg and the weather is glorious!
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Sep 22nd, 2009 | 09:29 AM
#8
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 395
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Swandav, the hike you described sounds really great. I'm guessing that there are other area hikes also? Does my flying in and out of Munich sound like a workable idea? Taking the train from Munich and then taking the bus either to Gilgen or Wolfgang? It also sounds as though the other lake villages are easily accessible and not real time consuming?
Sep 22nd, 2009 | 09:45 AM
#9
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,502
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Oh, you found it! Good!
Yes, I connected through München (obviously), and it was sooo simple. The bus is right at the Salzburg station, and they run every 30 minutes; you never are waiting long. It's bus #150.
The bus goes first to St. Gilgen and then to St. Wolfgang. It took about 50 minutes to get to St. Gilgen, and it was a thoroughly fun ride through the countryside and the towns.
Yes, there are a LOT of hikes in the mountains above the towns. I'm just drawn to the lakes (and I live right under the Zugspitz now . . . ). But the map I have shows many hikes around the Mittersten, Plombergstein, and Stenklüfte over St. Gilgen and around the Schafberg above St. Wolfgang.
Not sure when you're going, but if you have the time, be sure to write for maps and brochures. I e-mailed the tourist office at
www.wolfgangsee.at
and got a couple of bulging packages with lots and lots of info. Here's one page with lots of suggestions:
http://www.wolfgangsee.at/en/4-01-1-...derrouten.html
Oh yes, it's dead easy to get to them all. The ferry makes a regular run Strobl-St. Wolfgang-St. Gilgen-St. Wolfgang-Strobl. They don't run all that frequently in the fall, and I think they almost stop around 28 Oct. Here's the site for the ferries:
http://www.schafbergbahn.at/index.ph...d=18&Itemid=35
I know you'll have fun!
s
Yes, I connected through München (obviously), and it was sooo simple. The bus is right at the Salzburg station, and they run every 30 minutes; you never are waiting long. It's bus #150.
The bus goes first to St. Gilgen and then to St. Wolfgang. It took about 50 minutes to get to St. Gilgen, and it was a thoroughly fun ride through the countryside and the towns.
Yes, there are a LOT of hikes in the mountains above the towns. I'm just drawn to the lakes (and I live right under the Zugspitz now . . . ). But the map I have shows many hikes around the Mittersten, Plombergstein, and Stenklüfte over St. Gilgen and around the Schafberg above St. Wolfgang.
Not sure when you're going, but if you have the time, be sure to write for maps and brochures. I e-mailed the tourist office at
www.wolfgangsee.at
and got a couple of bulging packages with lots and lots of info. Here's one page with lots of suggestions:
http://www.wolfgangsee.at/en/4-01-1-...derrouten.html
Oh yes, it's dead easy to get to them all. The ferry makes a regular run Strobl-St. Wolfgang-St. Gilgen-St. Wolfgang-Strobl. They don't run all that frequently in the fall, and I think they almost stop around 28 Oct. Here's the site for the ferries:
http://www.schafbergbahn.at/index.ph...d=18&Itemid=35
I know you'll have fun!
s
Sep 22nd, 2009 | 09:58 AM
#10
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 395
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Swandav, thank you so so very very much. I went into this not knowng much if anything about this area. After speaking with you and Betty, I think I have learned quite a lot about this area. On past trips to Garmisch and Switzerland, I have always written the tourists office for maps and information packages. Munich it is then. I'll overnight somewhere close to the Munich airport-bahnhof station and then set out for this area the next day. Thanks to you and Betty again.
Sep 22nd, 2009 | 12:32 PM
#11
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 263
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Hi Swandav,
Glad to read that you had a chance to visit St. Gilgen. It's one of our favorites. We stayed this summer (early/mid June) at the Pension Ferstl too (10 days) and also recommend the Wirt am Gries restaurant. We think there is so much to do there for an outdoor vaction.
Kathy (Knoxville)
Glad to read that you had a chance to visit St. Gilgen. It's one of our favorites. We stayed this summer (early/mid June) at the Pension Ferstl too (10 days) and also recommend the Wirt am Gries restaurant. We think there is so much to do there for an outdoor vaction.
Kathy (Knoxville)
Oct 25th, 2009 | 06:19 AM
#13
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,264
Likes: 0
swandav2000:
Looks like another year that we will miss going to Germany! I get my fix from reading trip reports.
I always would say "oh, if I could only live here in Garmisch!!" What a wonderful location!
You have to, every once and a while. give us some insights on how it is to live in a new country.
I have cousins in Hall im tirol and when I visit them, they all seem so healthy and happy! (maybe it is just a show for their American Cousins!)
Eventually I will get my Frau to get over her fear of flying ( just started these past few years) and will look you up when we get into town.
John
Looks like another year that we will miss going to Germany! I get my fix from reading trip reports.
I always would say "oh, if I could only live here in Garmisch!!" What a wonderful location!
You have to, every once and a while. give us some insights on how it is to live in a new country.
I have cousins in Hall im tirol and when I visit them, they all seem so healthy and happy! (maybe it is just a show for their American Cousins!)
Eventually I will get my Frau to get over her fear of flying ( just started these past few years) and will look you up when we get into town.
John
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