First time to Paris! Trip Report
Apr 22nd, 2004, 08:50 AM
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First time to Paris! Trip Report
First time for myself and husband to Paris. It seemed like a whirlwind at the time, but I'm already thinking of the things to do, eat, and buy next time! Here goes on my first-ever trip report . . .
We took Air France from PHL overnight to CDG. Nice plane with the video features in the seatbacks. Of course, we tried to sleep as much as possible, but on the return my husband watched two full movies!
Day One
We arrived on time, and were out the door pretty quickly. After handing in our debarkation card (and passport), no one ever stopped us again. Is that normal? We were afraid we had somehow scammed our way into the country. Did the right thing and called PariShuttle before getting the luggage, and after we got euros at the ATM and a Paris par Arrondisement at the newsstand, he was waiting for us. Picked up another set of passengers and we were off, speeding all the way, with the driver talking on two different cell phones. The other people with us were staying near the Tour Eiffel, so that was our first view of it. Makes a great impression! Et voila, next we were dropped off in the Marais at the Caron de Beaumarchais. Waiting for our room to be ready, we walked down the rue Francs Bourgeois to the Place de Vosges and had the first of many cafe cremes and pain chocolats at Cafe Hugo. I want to eat that every day! Got to our room around noon. I'd asked for a room on the top floor w/ balcony which was fabulous. Yes, it was tiny, but we are not large, and didn't have tons of luggage. The view was a wonderful amenity. Changed, and took Bus 69 west towards the Louvre. Checked out Galeries Vero-Dadot and Vivienne where we ate lunch at A Priori The. A lovely atmosphere outside, but not really, under the glass roof. Strolled over to the Louvre and Tuilleries area and just took it all in. On the way home we stopped for a Menthe de l'eau - iced creme de menthe w/ water. Refreshing! Dinner that night was a block away at Le Coude Fou (The Insane Elbow!) which was great fun. Our host was very kind in helping to decipher the menu. Our lamb and steak dishes went nicely with the recommended Cotes du Rhone. Oh, and I had my first Lillet for an apertif. Then, to bed. More to follow . . .!
We took Air France from PHL overnight to CDG. Nice plane with the video features in the seatbacks. Of course, we tried to sleep as much as possible, but on the return my husband watched two full movies!
Day One
We arrived on time, and were out the door pretty quickly. After handing in our debarkation card (and passport), no one ever stopped us again. Is that normal? We were afraid we had somehow scammed our way into the country. Did the right thing and called PariShuttle before getting the luggage, and after we got euros at the ATM and a Paris par Arrondisement at the newsstand, he was waiting for us. Picked up another set of passengers and we were off, speeding all the way, with the driver talking on two different cell phones. The other people with us were staying near the Tour Eiffel, so that was our first view of it. Makes a great impression! Et voila, next we were dropped off in the Marais at the Caron de Beaumarchais. Waiting for our room to be ready, we walked down the rue Francs Bourgeois to the Place de Vosges and had the first of many cafe cremes and pain chocolats at Cafe Hugo. I want to eat that every day! Got to our room around noon. I'd asked for a room on the top floor w/ balcony which was fabulous. Yes, it was tiny, but we are not large, and didn't have tons of luggage. The view was a wonderful amenity. Changed, and took Bus 69 west towards the Louvre. Checked out Galeries Vero-Dadot and Vivienne where we ate lunch at A Priori The. A lovely atmosphere outside, but not really, under the glass roof. Strolled over to the Louvre and Tuilleries area and just took it all in. On the way home we stopped for a Menthe de l'eau - iced creme de menthe w/ water. Refreshing! Dinner that night was a block away at Le Coude Fou (The Insane Elbow!) which was great fun. Our host was very kind in helping to decipher the menu. Our lamb and steak dishes went nicely with the recommended Cotes du Rhone. Oh, and I had my first Lillet for an apertif. Then, to bed. More to follow . . .!
Apr 22nd, 2004, 09:10 AM
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Hi Melissa,
Welcome home. Yes, your entry into Paris is quite normal, not only in France but in many other European countries also.
An enthusiastic first installment. Looking forward to reading more.
A favor - could you separate the paragraphs to make reading on the screen easier? Thanks.
Welcome home. Yes, your entry into Paris is quite normal, not only in France but in many other European countries also.
An enthusiastic first installment. Looking forward to reading more.
A favor - could you separate the paragraphs to make reading on the screen easier? Thanks.
.
Apr 22nd, 2004, 02:01 PM
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Back again . . .
elle, is cafe noir the petite tasse of espresso? I just love the hot milk, cafe, and lumps of sugar! Is there anyplace in Phila. to replicate the experience? And, thanks for the info about terminal E at PHL. Luckily we didn't have to spend too much time there. Arrived at CDG 2C which didn't look too much nicer. Left from CDG 2E which is tres deluxe.
Anyway . . . Day 2
Started off at Le Flore En Ile on the Ile St. Louis for cafe and pain, then headed over to Notre Dame. Didn't spend too much time inside,and forgot to go back
, 'cause we didn't want to spend too much time in line for the tower climb. Omigod! Thought I was prepared for the climb, but my heart was about to burst half way up. I stopped at the middle and saw the bell, while DH went to the tippy top. Loved the close-up view of the creatures, and their worn away faces. Though the climb down made me dizzy just winding and winding around that staircase.
It was drizzly so we decided to go back to the hotel for the umbrella, and took the 96 bus back across to the Cluny Museum. We loved everything, though my picture of the tapestries is blurry. Walked into St. Germain, couldn't decide where to eat lunch (a recurring theme) and were finally so hungry we went to Cafe Flore. But it was fun! And mostly full of locals, too, including a few dogs who just disappeared under the tables. Omelette mixte was dryish, but who cares. A glass of vin blanc, and cafe (the petite black kind), and we were on our way again. This time to Madeleine Gely the umbrella maker - a pre-decided stop. As it turned out, the umbrella I bought was the same style as one a (French) woman had at the Flore. I'm so cool!
After a quick nap at the hotel, we were off again to St. G. to meet up with other Fodorites Judy and Julie (StormyGirl, we missed you!) at Le Dernier Goutte, the wine store with wine tastings on Sat. afternoon. It was a blast. Judy looked so relaxed traveling on her own, and Julie and her friends were a hoot! We had wine, champagne, etc. and just hung around the store for awhile.
Walked farther west on St. Germain to St. Dominique and on to Le Bellecour, our nicest and best dinner. A 44e formule turned out to be tons of food, along with a bottle of pouily fuse, and little in between meal palette cleansers. We both ordered the special dessert of orange tart with blood oranges on top, and could barely finish one. I would highly recommend this nice, nice place. And, it's close to the Tour Eiffel where we walked afterwards for a nighttime view. Stunning! Staggered home late and slept in the next morning . . . whew.
elle, is cafe noir the petite tasse of espresso? I just love the hot milk, cafe, and lumps of sugar! Is there anyplace in Phila. to replicate the experience? And, thanks for the info about terminal E at PHL. Luckily we didn't have to spend too much time there. Arrived at CDG 2C which didn't look too much nicer. Left from CDG 2E which is tres deluxe.
Anyway . . . Day 2
Started off at Le Flore En Ile on the Ile St. Louis for cafe and pain, then headed over to Notre Dame. Didn't spend too much time inside,and forgot to go back
, 'cause we didn't want to spend too much time in line for the tower climb. Omigod! Thought I was prepared for the climb, but my heart was about to burst half way up. I stopped at the middle and saw the bell, while DH went to the tippy top. Loved the close-up view of the creatures, and their worn away faces. Though the climb down made me dizzy just winding and winding around that staircase.It was drizzly so we decided to go back to the hotel for the umbrella, and took the 96 bus back across to the Cluny Museum. We loved everything, though my picture of the tapestries is blurry. Walked into St. Germain, couldn't decide where to eat lunch (a recurring theme) and were finally so hungry we went to Cafe Flore. But it was fun! And mostly full of locals, too, including a few dogs who just disappeared under the tables. Omelette mixte was dryish, but who cares. A glass of vin blanc, and cafe (the petite black kind), and we were on our way again. This time to Madeleine Gely the umbrella maker - a pre-decided stop. As it turned out, the umbrella I bought was the same style as one a (French) woman had at the Flore. I'm so cool!
After a quick nap at the hotel, we were off again to St. G. to meet up with other Fodorites Judy and Julie (StormyGirl, we missed you!) at Le Dernier Goutte, the wine store with wine tastings on Sat. afternoon. It was a blast. Judy looked so relaxed traveling on her own, and Julie and her friends were a hoot! We had wine, champagne, etc. and just hung around the store for awhile.
Walked farther west on St. Germain to St. Dominique and on to Le Bellecour, our nicest and best dinner. A 44e formule turned out to be tons of food, along with a bottle of pouily fuse, and little in between meal palette cleansers. We both ordered the special dessert of orange tart with blood oranges on top, and could barely finish one. I would highly recommend this nice, nice place. And, it's close to the Tour Eiffel where we walked afterwards for a nighttime view. Stunning! Staggered home late and slept in the next morning . . . whew.
Apr 23rd, 2004, 01:17 AM
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Hi, Melissa.
I just got back last night and woke up at 4 this morning. No way I can write a report yet.
Glad you loved it. Can't wait to read more.
By the way, everyone, Melissa had that Parisienne scarf thing down pat!!
Judy
I just got back last night and woke up at 4 this morning. No way I can write a report yet.
Glad you loved it. Can't wait to read more.
By the way, everyone, Melissa had that Parisienne scarf thing down pat!!
Judy
Apr 23rd, 2004, 01:50 AM
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I forgot this was the trip where you all were meeting for drinks! Sounds like a good time was had by all.
Wow, elle, I agree you do not sound like a first-timer, you must have done some serious planning.
Hurry back with the rest.
Wow, elle, I agree you do not sound like a first-timer, you must have done some serious planning.
Hurry back with the rest.
Apr 23rd, 2004, 02:14 AM
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Melissa, if you want to get something similar to a European coffee experience in Phila, go to La Colombe on 19th and Walnut, entrance on the 19th street side. Owned by one guy from Seattle and another guy from France. It is the hangout for Center City's Euro expats. (However, with all the Europeans there, it can get smokey). The coffee is very good, served at Le Bec Fin and the Four Seasons and at many top restaurants in Philadelphia and New York City.
Apr 23rd, 2004, 05:50 AM
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Great trip report, Melissa19! When you first saw the Eiffel Tower light up, didn't you just exclaim, "Ahhhhh!" with an irrepressible smile of delight?
It'll get you every time, but that first sighting is a real thriller.
Your trip report is proof of the value of planning and the advice that we all benefit from on this board. Glad you had such a wonderful time! Thanks for sharing your very enjoyable account.
It'll get you every time, but that first sighting is a real thriller.
Your trip report is proof of the value of planning and the advice that we all benefit from on this board. Glad you had such a wonderful time! Thanks for sharing your very enjoyable account.
Apr 23rd, 2004, 06:13 AM
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BTilke - I know Le Columbe and go there as often as possible. I'm always amazed at how much better the coffee tastes from their china as opposed to "to go." I heard they have banned smoking, just like they finally banned dogs. c'est la vie.
I did do a lot of planning, but by the time of the trip felt like I was on planning overload. We had no set itinerary, just some must/hope-to-see(s). We did pretty well, but I developed a love/hate relationship with my guide books. Regardless . . .
Day 3
Slept in untill 9:30am and had cafe in our room with some pain chocolat we had picked up the evening before. As this was Sunday, we planned to stay in the Marais, seeing the museums and shops. Went to the Carnavalet first and looked for the "niche de chien!" The whole opulence of those Louis' is outrageous. Somehow missed the Fouquet jewelry shop, though we looked at Proust's bedroom twice before realizing what it was. Still, it was fun to imagine the buildings as individual maisons. What a life.
It was raining by the time we left, so we ducked into L'Esculier for lunch. My god, squeezing between those petite tables is daunting! Lunch was unmemorable, and somehow we ended up paying 24e for a half carafe of wine. Hmmmmm.
Shopping was interesting. I had planned to come home with a whole new wardrobe, but didn't really see too much that interested me. Plus, I have an aversion to paying full price and there were no sales that I saw this time of year. Still, managed to find a few things at Antoine et Lili, and our favorite souvenirs from Pylones which has crazy cute stuff - Eiffel Tower spinners, etc.
After our afternoon rest, we wandered over to the Centre Pompidou. We are fans of modern art, so enjoyed the top two floors, though we didn't go to the Miro exhibit. Loved the building itself, and the views are spectacular. Great for photo ops. I also wanted to see the "Defender of Time" clock which was nearby. Alas, the poor fellow (who was smaller than I imagined) was not working, and held a sign saying he was closed for maintenance. Too bad I can't post the picture here as he was really cute anyway.
Navigated the bus system again (we never took a metro!) to the Latin Quarter for our dinner at Le Petit Pontoise - on the recommendation of the NYTimes. Our least expensive dinner, though my husband's least favorite. However, I tried Lillet rouge beforehand and we both had Poire William (pear eau de vie) afterwards. Wow! That'll knock your socks off. Um, I think we walked home from there. Maybe that's where those blurry pix of Notre Dame at night came from!
One more day to go . . .
I did do a lot of planning, but by the time of the trip felt like I was on planning overload. We had no set itinerary, just some must/hope-to-see(s). We did pretty well, but I developed a love/hate relationship with my guide books. Regardless . . .
Day 3
Slept in untill 9:30am and had cafe in our room with some pain chocolat we had picked up the evening before. As this was Sunday, we planned to stay in the Marais, seeing the museums and shops. Went to the Carnavalet first and looked for the "niche de chien!" The whole opulence of those Louis' is outrageous. Somehow missed the Fouquet jewelry shop, though we looked at Proust's bedroom twice before realizing what it was. Still, it was fun to imagine the buildings as individual maisons. What a life.
It was raining by the time we left, so we ducked into L'Esculier for lunch. My god, squeezing between those petite tables is daunting! Lunch was unmemorable, and somehow we ended up paying 24e for a half carafe of wine. Hmmmmm.
Shopping was interesting. I had planned to come home with a whole new wardrobe, but didn't really see too much that interested me. Plus, I have an aversion to paying full price and there were no sales that I saw this time of year. Still, managed to find a few things at Antoine et Lili, and our favorite souvenirs from Pylones which has crazy cute stuff - Eiffel Tower spinners, etc.
After our afternoon rest, we wandered over to the Centre Pompidou. We are fans of modern art, so enjoyed the top two floors, though we didn't go to the Miro exhibit. Loved the building itself, and the views are spectacular. Great for photo ops. I also wanted to see the "Defender of Time" clock which was nearby. Alas, the poor fellow (who was smaller than I imagined) was not working, and held a sign saying he was closed for maintenance. Too bad I can't post the picture here as he was really cute anyway.
Navigated the bus system again (we never took a metro!) to the Latin Quarter for our dinner at Le Petit Pontoise - on the recommendation of the NYTimes. Our least expensive dinner, though my husband's least favorite. However, I tried Lillet rouge beforehand and we both had Poire William (pear eau de vie) afterwards. Wow! That'll knock your socks off. Um, I think we walked home from there. Maybe that's where those blurry pix of Notre Dame at night came from!
One more day to go . . .
Apr 23rd, 2004, 06:44 AM
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I am really having fun re-living my visit through yours!
Cafe noir is essentially a double espresso. The closest I've come to it in Philadelphia is at chez moi! (My husband the cafe creme addict gave up on trying to find the perfect cafe creme in Philadelphia and so we gave in and bought our own machine. . . )
Are you at all aware of the great coffee wars that are taking place in Phila right now--La Colombe vs. Illy (there was an article in the paper a few weeks ago)? A lot of restaurants have been switching from La Colombe to Illy.
In our neighborhood (Art Museum), the London Grill has opened a new coffee shop next door that serves Illy. It's kind of fun--I can stop there with the dog in the morning, throw back an espresso standing up, and pretend I'm in Europe. There are some good places for espresso and coffee in and around the Italian Market, too.
Apr 23rd, 2004, 07:24 AM
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does the homemade cafe creme involve a french press coffee pot and french roast coffee? i have a stovetop espresso maker and "italian" espresso, but it just doesn't taste the same.
ziana, yes, i would definitely go back. i like returning to places over and over, and i think it always takes a few visits to become comfortable. like with shopping, i just didn't know what to buy and didn't want to make the "wrong" purchase. but next time i'll have more of an idea of what i want and where to get it (hopefully).
ziana, yes, i would definitely go back. i like returning to places over and over, and i think it always takes a few visits to become comfortable. like with shopping, i just didn't know what to buy and didn't want to make the "wrong" purchase. but next time i'll have more of an idea of what i want and where to get it (hopefully).
Apr 23rd, 2004, 07:34 AM
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Good for you, melissa.
I just thought if you Phila's coffe lovers can give me a hint on where to get best coffee ? I would appreciate it so much.
Since we came back from Germany - Gevalia taste like dirt to me
I just thought if you Phila's coffe lovers can give me a hint on where to get best coffee ? I would appreciate it so much.
Since we came back from Germany - Gevalia taste like dirt to me
Apr 23rd, 2004, 07:46 AM
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Nope--no more stove top espresso. Even some of the popular machines, e.g. Krups, don't quite have the pressure to make a true espresso.
We bit the bullet and bought a pretty decent machine. Here's a link to the deal we got, which is awfully good for the money:
http://www.illyusa.com/AB1666000/web...WebPage_ID=110
I must say, it's really really good for both espressos and cafe cremes. It does require a certain amount of maintenance, however. We once neglected the machine and it blew a gasket with such force that the clock shot across the room and almost took out our cat.
Now if only I could see the Eiffel Tower from our terrace. . .
