First time in Italy - Trip report part 1
Apr 25th, 2005, 03:45 PM
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Cab fare from airport to hotel in Florence was 30 euros...with quite alot of traffic. The airport personnel said it would be 25 to 30. It seems the airport was quite a way from the historic center, and we were happy to pay for the cab rather than negotiate public transport in our sleep deprived state!
Apr 25th, 2005, 04:14 PM
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Hi Natalie,
I love your report. I can tell you had a wonderful trip and the first time going to these cities is indiscribable. I was wondering why you few into Florence for an over night instead of flying directly to Rome? Just nosey. Keep the report coming. thanks
I love your report. I can tell you had a wonderful trip and the first time going to these cities is indiscribable. I was wondering why you few into Florence for an over night instead of flying directly to Rome? Just nosey. Keep the report coming. thanks
Apr 25th, 2005, 05:01 PM
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This is such a great report. Brings back memories of the Capuchine Crypts. My sister inadvertently left her movie camera on while we were lined up against the wall inside waiting to go through to the end of the crypt. We have a little film of the inside. Very eery at best.
LAU
LAU
Apr 25th, 2005, 06:10 PM
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Hi, Natalie--Great report! I'm another fan of the ossuary at S. Maria della Concezione. Admittedly bizarre, but it was one of the most wondrous things I've ever seen!
Looking forward to the next installment of your report.
Looking forward to the next installment of your report.
Apr 25th, 2005, 08:10 PM
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Trip Report Part 2
DAY 7 - WEDNESDAY - Took the subway to the main termini station, where we transferred to our train to Venice. Decided on first class for this 5 hour trip...reclining seats appear to be the primary difference. The trip to Venice is beautiful...classic Tuscan scenery. Another brush with crime at the snack bar...while deciphering the menu, a rude customer broke in and attempted to place his order in front of ours. Afterward, my husband (who, you may remember, was almost carried away by gypsies at the start of the trip) discovered his "secret" zippered pouch had again been opened. This time our analysis was that the rude customer was the distraction, and someone likely jostled by behind him whom we didn't even notice. Luckily, he was keeping that top zippered pocket empty, so no problem! I think next time we should fill it with some horrible substance, like copy machine toner.
As in Rome, our arrival in Venice was breathtaking...stepping out of the train station into a postcard. We optimistically walked to our apartment, as its owner had assured us it was only a 10 minute walk with "two bridges." 45 minutes and approximately 38 bridges later (I wasn't counting, but I think this is accurate), we felt we were getting pretty close. We at least had found the Cannaregio district. As the designated communicator, I (yet again) asked directions of a very nice man...He spoke no English, of course, but we discovered I knew my colors, and was able to explain that we needed to turn into a tiny alley by "the lady in the white coat." We scurried as fast as we could as she was on the move, but managed to make the correct turn! A couple more blocks and we were at the large, medieval looking locked door to our building...with a list of buzzers to ring, but no names that matched the owners. An elderly gentleman emerged, and helped by pushing the bell for the only people in the building he didn't know...success!
In a "typicale" Italian twist, the owner was unable to meet us, so sent her friend who could only speak French. She spoke even less Italian than me, so our "orientation" did not really clarify anything. My sister and brother-in-law had flown directly to Venice, and had arrived before us...probably while we were wandering the streets. Later, when trying to decipher how to operate the hot water heater, I asked my sister if Yolanda (the nice French woman) had said anything about it...She assured me that, "oh yes, she said ALOT about the hot water heater, and seemed very excited about it."
Lodging: This was a huge, 3 bedroom apartment in a building that dates back to the 1400's...which my husband did not find surprising. Very cool building with an indoor piazza; 3 sets of huge locked doors, gargoyle-like faces and everything. This caused my sister and I to sing "We're Marley and Marley, whooooooo" from the Muppets Christmas Carol Movie everytime we entered and left...to the general annoyance of the rest of the group. But I digress...this was a genuine Venetian apartment, where real people live, overlooking a charming canal. (See it at: www.vrbo.com/17697) In hindsight, I would have tried our second choice www.vrbo.com/119075, "an enchanting apartment near the Rialto bridge." Our apartment was spotless, charmingly furnished, and housed 5 of us comfortably for under 200 euros per night. On the downside, the washer was also the "dryer," the hot water heater had its own personality, and the stove was a bit tricky...but hey, lots of ambience! At 9 pm the power went out...only in our apartment and the gargoyle equipped staircase. While the guys went searching for a fuse box (equipped with a tiny flashlight), the three of us huddled on a bed and mused, "Isn't this the part of the movie where everyone yells, 'Don't go down there you idiots...the street is full of vampires!!!!!'" Suffice to say, they actually found the fuse box and restored our power...causing them great pride, of course.
Quote of the day: "That fuse box is SO not up to code."
Activities: Walked around enjoying the sheer charm of Venice. Our apartment was in the Cannaregio district, an actual working neighborhood, which made for great people watching and strolling.
Tip of the Day: You can't have too many maps in Venice...We finally figured out that streets with the same name may be found in more than one "district," hence, finding the name of the street you're on, doesn't mean you are where you think you are!
DAY 8 - THURSDAY - Woke up rested from yesterday's trek to the apartment, 84 bridges, encounters with vampires, etc. (and refreshed by our lukewarm shower)! Walked to the train station (a surprisingly easy stroll of ten minutes or so) and purchased 24 hour vaporetto passes (10.50 euros). Caught the number 1 boat that travels the entire Grand Canal, getting off at San Maria Salute (built in thanks to the Virgin for ending the plague), then crossing over on another to San Marco. The bells rang as we got there, which I think means something...but I'm not sure exactly what. Perhaps that we will return? That we will be swept off our feet by a handsome/beautiful Italian? That we will spend more money in Venice than planned? The waves lapping against the boat, the echo of the bells mesmerize us...whispering a chant of Venice..."forget about the exchange...a euro is just a dollar...eat....shop...then eat some more." (from the book "A Thousand Dollars in Venice"
Activities: Strolled around Piazza San Marco, then toured the inside of the Basilica. Skipped the relics of Saint Mark, as I have promised my husband "no more dead people," after the Cappucin crypts. Strolled some more and decided on a cafe with music, pastries, and capuccino over the Doges Palace, agreeing that we need atmosphere more than knowledge.
Caught one of the last boats to Murano Island to visit the glass factories. Exactly as predicted by Rick Steves, watched a craftsman make "a vase and a leetle 'orse." Window shopped, but too pricey for those of us lacking appreciation for glass! Took the vaporetto back, and cleverly got off at the Fondamenta Nuove stop, and an easy walk back to our apartment. After dark, strolled San Lorenzo and planned our shopping for the next day!
Transportation: The vaporetto system sounded intimidating before we got there, but like everything else, was very easy to negotiate. It did help to check at the ticket counters to make sure we were waiting at the dock for the ferry that went in the right direction! (Most frequently used Italian phrase: Dove il...?)
Tip of the Day: Unless you are very interested in glass, you might enjoy one of the other, more scenic islands over Murano. For low-cost, "touristy" pieces (i.e. those in our price range), prices were much better in Venice, than at the glass factories.
DAY 9 - FRIDAY - Took a vaparetto to the Rialto Bridge for some power shopping. This was one of the best places for souvenier shopping...great variety and, surprisingly, some of the best prices. Walked, shopped, sat and enjoyed our twice daily cappucino break, then made our way back home on foot.
Tip of the Day: I think Rick Steve's book stressed that if you see something you like, buy it, as you may not see it again. This was certainly the case everywhere we went. Unlike the U.S., where one tends to see the same items again and again and again, each town, city, or area had its own unique products. Overall, it seems best to purchase items that are local to the area. E.g. The same glass vases we bought for 8 euros in Venice (Don't laugh...they're very nice.), were 24 euros in Cortona.
Meals: Strolled down San Leonardo looking for a place to eat, and stumbled upon Trattoria Le Campane...appealing because of its prices and the fact that it was full of locals. Enjoyed one of our favoriet meals, for about 12 euros per person. The owner was wonderful, showing us his outdoor patio that will open in summer, and chatting with my husband over a drink long after we left...somewhere we will look for when we return!
The evening ended with me having a fit of remorse over my failure to purchase a cat mask, as my sister had...So she and my husband and I set out on a quest to find this critical item before all the shops closed. Cat masks abounded BUT none with a tarot card pattern on the face! We eventually succumbed, and took the vaparetto all the way back to Rialto Bridge, where we managed to find one just as a stall was closing. This fiasco is important only because it gave us the gift of experiencing the...
2nd Tip of the Day: Be sure to take a vaparetto ride down the Grand Canal at sunset...a beautiful way to remember Venice (that and your cat mask, of course).
NEXT: Part 3 - Tuscany
DAY 7 - WEDNESDAY - Took the subway to the main termini station, where we transferred to our train to Venice. Decided on first class for this 5 hour trip...reclining seats appear to be the primary difference. The trip to Venice is beautiful...classic Tuscan scenery. Another brush with crime at the snack bar...while deciphering the menu, a rude customer broke in and attempted to place his order in front of ours. Afterward, my husband (who, you may remember, was almost carried away by gypsies at the start of the trip) discovered his "secret" zippered pouch had again been opened. This time our analysis was that the rude customer was the distraction, and someone likely jostled by behind him whom we didn't even notice. Luckily, he was keeping that top zippered pocket empty, so no problem! I think next time we should fill it with some horrible substance, like copy machine toner.
As in Rome, our arrival in Venice was breathtaking...stepping out of the train station into a postcard. We optimistically walked to our apartment, as its owner had assured us it was only a 10 minute walk with "two bridges." 45 minutes and approximately 38 bridges later (I wasn't counting, but I think this is accurate), we felt we were getting pretty close. We at least had found the Cannaregio district. As the designated communicator, I (yet again) asked directions of a very nice man...He spoke no English, of course, but we discovered I knew my colors, and was able to explain that we needed to turn into a tiny alley by "the lady in the white coat." We scurried as fast as we could as she was on the move, but managed to make the correct turn! A couple more blocks and we were at the large, medieval looking locked door to our building...with a list of buzzers to ring, but no names that matched the owners. An elderly gentleman emerged, and helped by pushing the bell for the only people in the building he didn't know...success!
In a "typicale" Italian twist, the owner was unable to meet us, so sent her friend who could only speak French. She spoke even less Italian than me, so our "orientation" did not really clarify anything. My sister and brother-in-law had flown directly to Venice, and had arrived before us...probably while we were wandering the streets. Later, when trying to decipher how to operate the hot water heater, I asked my sister if Yolanda (the nice French woman) had said anything about it...She assured me that, "oh yes, she said ALOT about the hot water heater, and seemed very excited about it."
Lodging: This was a huge, 3 bedroom apartment in a building that dates back to the 1400's...which my husband did not find surprising. Very cool building with an indoor piazza; 3 sets of huge locked doors, gargoyle-like faces and everything. This caused my sister and I to sing "We're Marley and Marley, whooooooo" from the Muppets Christmas Carol Movie everytime we entered and left...to the general annoyance of the rest of the group. But I digress...this was a genuine Venetian apartment, where real people live, overlooking a charming canal. (See it at: www.vrbo.com/17697) In hindsight, I would have tried our second choice www.vrbo.com/119075, "an enchanting apartment near the Rialto bridge." Our apartment was spotless, charmingly furnished, and housed 5 of us comfortably for under 200 euros per night. On the downside, the washer was also the "dryer," the hot water heater had its own personality, and the stove was a bit tricky...but hey, lots of ambience! At 9 pm the power went out...only in our apartment and the gargoyle equipped staircase. While the guys went searching for a fuse box (equipped with a tiny flashlight), the three of us huddled on a bed and mused, "Isn't this the part of the movie where everyone yells, 'Don't go down there you idiots...the street is full of vampires!!!!!'" Suffice to say, they actually found the fuse box and restored our power...causing them great pride, of course.
Quote of the day: "That fuse box is SO not up to code."
Activities: Walked around enjoying the sheer charm of Venice. Our apartment was in the Cannaregio district, an actual working neighborhood, which made for great people watching and strolling.
Tip of the Day: You can't have too many maps in Venice...We finally figured out that streets with the same name may be found in more than one "district," hence, finding the name of the street you're on, doesn't mean you are where you think you are!
DAY 8 - THURSDAY - Woke up rested from yesterday's trek to the apartment, 84 bridges, encounters with vampires, etc. (and refreshed by our lukewarm shower)! Walked to the train station (a surprisingly easy stroll of ten minutes or so) and purchased 24 hour vaporetto passes (10.50 euros). Caught the number 1 boat that travels the entire Grand Canal, getting off at San Maria Salute (built in thanks to the Virgin for ending the plague), then crossing over on another to San Marco. The bells rang as we got there, which I think means something...but I'm not sure exactly what. Perhaps that we will return? That we will be swept off our feet by a handsome/beautiful Italian? That we will spend more money in Venice than planned? The waves lapping against the boat, the echo of the bells mesmerize us...whispering a chant of Venice..."forget about the exchange...a euro is just a dollar...eat....shop...then eat some more." (from the book "A Thousand Dollars in Venice"
Activities: Strolled around Piazza San Marco, then toured the inside of the Basilica. Skipped the relics of Saint Mark, as I have promised my husband "no more dead people," after the Cappucin crypts. Strolled some more and decided on a cafe with music, pastries, and capuccino over the Doges Palace, agreeing that we need atmosphere more than knowledge.
Caught one of the last boats to Murano Island to visit the glass factories. Exactly as predicted by Rick Steves, watched a craftsman make "a vase and a leetle 'orse." Window shopped, but too pricey for those of us lacking appreciation for glass! Took the vaporetto back, and cleverly got off at the Fondamenta Nuove stop, and an easy walk back to our apartment. After dark, strolled San Lorenzo and planned our shopping for the next day!
Transportation: The vaporetto system sounded intimidating before we got there, but like everything else, was very easy to negotiate. It did help to check at the ticket counters to make sure we were waiting at the dock for the ferry that went in the right direction! (Most frequently used Italian phrase: Dove il...?)
Tip of the Day: Unless you are very interested in glass, you might enjoy one of the other, more scenic islands over Murano. For low-cost, "touristy" pieces (i.e. those in our price range), prices were much better in Venice, than at the glass factories.
DAY 9 - FRIDAY - Took a vaparetto to the Rialto Bridge for some power shopping. This was one of the best places for souvenier shopping...great variety and, surprisingly, some of the best prices. Walked, shopped, sat and enjoyed our twice daily cappucino break, then made our way back home on foot.
Tip of the Day: I think Rick Steve's book stressed that if you see something you like, buy it, as you may not see it again. This was certainly the case everywhere we went. Unlike the U.S., where one tends to see the same items again and again and again, each town, city, or area had its own unique products. Overall, it seems best to purchase items that are local to the area. E.g. The same glass vases we bought for 8 euros in Venice (Don't laugh...they're very nice.), were 24 euros in Cortona.
Meals: Strolled down San Leonardo looking for a place to eat, and stumbled upon Trattoria Le Campane...appealing because of its prices and the fact that it was full of locals. Enjoyed one of our favoriet meals, for about 12 euros per person. The owner was wonderful, showing us his outdoor patio that will open in summer, and chatting with my husband over a drink long after we left...somewhere we will look for when we return!
The evening ended with me having a fit of remorse over my failure to purchase a cat mask, as my sister had...So she and my husband and I set out on a quest to find this critical item before all the shops closed. Cat masks abounded BUT none with a tarot card pattern on the face! We eventually succumbed, and took the vaparetto all the way back to Rialto Bridge, where we managed to find one just as a stall was closing. This fiasco is important only because it gave us the gift of experiencing the...
2nd Tip of the Day: Be sure to take a vaparetto ride down the Grand Canal at sunset...a beautiful way to remember Venice (that and your cat mask, of course).
NEXT: Part 3 - Tuscany
Apr 26th, 2005, 04:00 AM
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NatalieM....I am just about jumping out of my skin in anticipation of leaving for my trip! I thought your Rome report was great but your Venice report was WONDERFUL! Having never been to Venice before, it is one of the things we are most anxious to get to and I felt like I was right there with you.
And I love the fact that your sister and your husband went all the way back with you to buy the mask! Obviously they appreciate the need to find that one thing we wished we had bought but did not. A very rare but necessary quality in a husband with whom you travel!
So on with your story.....please!
And I love the fact that your sister and your husband went all the way back with you to buy the mask! Obviously they appreciate the need to find that one thing we wished we had bought but did not. A very rare but necessary quality in a husband with whom you travel!
So on with your story.....please!
Apr 26th, 2005, 09:30 AM
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NatalieM.... It is I...Sister. I am SO enjoying reliving our trip to Italy with you. Your story is a hoot! At Basilica San Marco I did pay and stand in line to see the treasures of St. Mark -- I missed Rome, so hadn't seen any bones yet. It was fascinating because I had no idea how the church made holy relics & that the treasure would be pieces of St. Mark's bones, such as his hand in a glass container. Also fascinating to be in a room with the bones of Mark the Apostle who was with Jesus. This was my favorite part of the basilica. I love spending time in cathedrals, but found San Marco to feel as if it had no heart. Weird.
