Finally! My PARIS trip report.
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:15 PM
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Finally! My PARIS trip report.
I know I am a bit late filing this trip report, but I still think it will help those traveling to Paris this summer. This first report is about my impressions. I will file some other info (like restaurants) later. Warning this is a long report, I hope it doesn’t bore anyone. I am planning to add much of the info plus more detail and photos to my websight soon. <BR><BR>In general I had a great time. I had a ton of good food, great shopping (it was sale week!) and most of all I walked a lot! My trip duration was 7 nights. This was my 5th trip to Paris but the first time I planned so much time without being on a business or short “passing thru” trip. <BR><BR>Since I was traveling in April I fully expected to get a few rainy days and planned to spend any of them indoors at the Louvre or Musee d’Orsay. Lucky for me, the weather was much nicer than I expected. During the middle of the day my leather coat over a sweater was all I needed. In the mornings and evenings I needed a cap and sometimes a scarf, just to keep my neck warm. I have to say that wearing a coat in the museums and shops was very warm, they don’t control the cool air as much as some American stores do.<BR><BR>My Impressions<BR><BR>THE PARISIAN’S - People were far less rude than you hear. Just remember you are a guest in their country and learn to say a few things in French. Remember the Parisian’s are trying to go about their everyday life while you are trying to have fun. Go out of your way to be nice.<BR><BR>SERVICE - I have to say when you shop in a nice store and eat in a nice restaurant you get GREAT service. For $10 less you can eat in a cheap restaurant, but expect to be treated like a tourist and get sub-standard food. It’s worth the extra $10 for the better food and service. For god sake, you spent a lot of money and time to get here. Make sure its not ruined but penny pinching or crabby waiters. <BR><BR>CONTINUED...
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:16 PM
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CONTINUED...<BR><BR>PARLEZ-VOUS FRANCAIS? - Do you best to learn some French sentences and words. Bonjour (hello), Je voudrais un verre du vin rouge (I would like a glass of red wine), Une table pour deux, si vous plais (a table for 2 please), Je ne comprends pas. Vous parlez Anglais? (I don't understand. Do you Speak English?). Don't worry, no one will mistake you as a French speaking national. They will usually answer you in English (if they speak it). In fact, in one place I visited I kept trying to use French and finally they said, "In English please!". At least try. <BR><BR>SHOPPING - Paris is not an expensive city! It's a shopping paradise (but only if you know the right places). If you want designer fashion, this is the place, but you'll pay the price. I like the good moderate shopping on the rue de Rivoli. OK, it is loaded with chain stores but you can get some cool trendy fashions for prices similar or less than in the USA. The department stores are also fun. Good shops are also located in St Germain (pricey) and on the Blvd St Michel in the Latin Quarter (moderate). <BR><BR>P.S. Avoid the gross shopping mall at Les Halles. Simply disgusting and filled with punks and strange people. You won't be impressed.<BR><BR>DEPARTMENT STORES (Le Grand Magasin) - Galleries Lafayette and Printemps are true retail palaces. Galleries Lafayette has a great food department where you can pick up gourmet treats for a picnic or souvenirs to take home. The food hall at Galleries Lafayette also has counter style seating where you can get a great lunch or snack. The counters are scattered around the market and themed to the area they are in, seafood lunch near the fish department, meat dishes near the meat department, Italian near the grocery department plus counters for cheeses, coffee and sushi. You will need to know about these counters since you will probably spend most of the day shopping in these two great stores. The other department stores are also a lot of fun. Au Bon Marche in the St-Germain area is a fashion oriented store which also has a great food market called "La Grand Epicerie" (The Large Grocer). There are a lot of yummy treats to be found here plus great souvenir shopping for items like mustards, jams, spices and candy. Samaritaine, near the Louvre, is sort of like Au Bon Marche and has a beautiful central atrium which is worth seeing. I also understand that the view from the upper floor cafe is breathtaking. One store which is a lot of fun is the BHV department store on the rue Rivoli next to the Hotel de Ville. This is a moderate priced store which has a decent fashion offering, but specializes in hardlines like housewares, hardware and knick-knacks. The best department is the one which carries hundreds of knobs and handles. What a great souvenir! Everytime you open your drawer you'll think of your trip to Paris!<BR><BR>CONTINUED...<BR>
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:17 PM
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CONTINUED...<BR><BR>SAFETY - I never felt threatened while walking through Paris or traveling on the Metro. Of course common sense applies. Know where your wallet is. Hold on to your handbag and leave your valuables, including your passport, in the hotel safe. Pickpockets operate in the Metro and mostly busy tourist areas. Avoid giving money to the gypsies and beggers on the street as you may become a target of one of their friends a few blocks away. When I am fishing through my backpack, reading a map or in a busy area, I always turn my back to the wall so no one can come up behind me. While in a cafe, place the strap of your bag under a chair leg or through your leg under the table.<BR><BR>JEANS & SNEAKERS - Fodorites on this board will get into heated discussions about whether or not to wear jeans in Paris. They will tell you that you will be immediately pinpointed as an American tourist the second you put on your Levis. Well.... In my observation I saw as many people in Jeans as I have in any American city. Parsians were wearing all sorts of jeans in all sorts of condition from worn, to dirty, to faded to indigo. Fashion jeans are the rage in Paris! Sneakers are also the universal method of comfort while walking. By all means please wear what you are most comfortable in. BUT.... I did notice that when I went to a decent restaurant for lunch people were in business casual clothing and looked on the sophisticated side. In some cases, I was in chinos and sweater and felt a bit underdressed. But after all, these were business people and I was on vacation. If you plan to have a cheap lunch or a picnic while touring, wearing your jeans and sneaks is a fine choice. If you plan to go to one of the more popular recommended bistros or cafes, you may consider wearing chinos or nice slacks with a sweater, nice shirt and comfy stylish shoes. After all this isn't Club Med and you can tour and see the sights just as easy and comfortable in nice casual clothing. If you are hitting the good bistros and brasseries for dinner I would recommend not wearing blue jeans. Personally, I would avoid logo tee shirts at any time (save um for the Hawaii trip). How about a simple black tees shirt instead? A black tee and stone colored pair of jeans can look really good! <BR><BR>P.S. - By the way that pair of American Levis is a status jean in Paris. Check out the prices... They sell from 80-100 Euros!<BR><BR>CONTINUED...
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:18 PM
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CONTINUED...<BR><BR>CDG AIRPORT - Terminal 1 at CDG airport is a dump and looks like a parking garage. Don't let it spoil your impression of Paris. Use the rest rooms as you leave your plane, not the ones in the baggage claim area which are crowded and filthy. The check in area is confusing and you can literally walk in circles to find your check in counter (arrive early). The duty free shops are not great and the food in the terminal is worse than most US airports (bring something with you). Leave this place as soon as you arrive. Terminal 1 is where most international flight arrive except for Air France which is in terminal 2. As you can see I am not a fan of Terminal 1 at CDG. It's no wonder why Air France built the more attractive terminal 2. If you happen to have a connecting flight from an international carrier to Air France, you may have to take the terminal connection bus which is also a nightmare. Allow plenty of time.<BR><BR>BREAKFAST - Unless you want the convenience, don’t take breakfast in your hotel. sometimes it can be expensive. Many of the local brasseries and cafes offer a set price breakfast for around 7 euros. This can include a coffee, juice, baguette with butter and jam (yum!) AND a croissant. Not cheap, if you want a lower priced breakfast you can find a nice Patisserie in every neighborhood where you can get a croissant, pastry or a “caffe creme”. Otherwise buy a pastry or a treat in one of the many markets and eat in your room. You may want to save your money for a big lunch anyway.<BR><BR>BISTROS AND BRASSERIES - It is always best to have a reservation, even for lunch, so you are not disappointed when you arrive and the hostess cries out "Je complete!" sending you out onto the streets like a pigeon searching for food. On Saturdays, Sundays and Monday lunch, many restaurants are closed. Plan accordingly. Of course, I didn't follow my own rules and was turned away from 2 or 3 places I wanted to try. The best way to beat the reservation system is to arrive early. For lunch, if you arrive between 12:00 and 12:45 you chances are far better than if you pop in at 1:15. The French generally start pouring into restaurants at about 1:00 for "le déjeuner" (lunch). For "le diner" (dinner) arrive around 7:30 if you don't have a reservation. Remember many places close after the lunch hour and don't open again til dinner. It's best to stick to the prescribed lunch or dinner hour if you want to go to one of the "popular" places. Hint - If you arrive and eat early you have a better chance of missing the "smoking hour" when everyone seems to be lighting up.<BR><BR>CONTINUED...
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:18 PM
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CONTINUED...<BR><BR>LE MENU/LE CARTE - You'll feel comfortable asking for the "menu" when you arrive at a Bistro but if you do you just ordered the special of the day. If you want the menu, ask for "La carte".<BR><BR>KNIVES AND FORKS - (this is for Americans only!) When is Europe... Watch the Europeans eat, they hold their fork upside-down in their left hand and knife in the right. The eat the entire meal like this never switching the fork from left to right. I have also never seen anyone cut all their food then eat it. It's a process of cut, then eat, cut then eat. Use the knife like a shovel to get things on the fork. Challenge yourself to keep the fork in the left and upside-down. Get creative when eating loose and soft food by piling them on top of the meat on your fork with your knife. Does this make sense?<BR><BR>PORTIONS - Portions in Paris are not huge, they are normal. This is not the Cheesecake Factory (an American restaurant chain known for its grossly oversized portions). They serve human size portions. Don't ask for a doggy bag otherwise you will be deported.<BR><BR>PASTRIES - Eat as many as you can or you will regret it when you get home. I am still searching for a good croissant in Los Angeles.<BR><BR>WINE - How do two people sit and drink an entire bottle of wine with Lunch and then go back to work? I had one glass and had to take a nap on a park bench near the Eiffel Tower!<BR><BR>WATER - Don't be pulled in by the pushy waiter who wants you to order a bottle of water with your food. This just add Euros to your bill. The "tap" water is perfectly drinkable. When the waiter asks simply request a "carafe d'eau" (said "carafe doh"). Its free.<BR><BR>CONTINUED...<BR>
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:19 PM
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CONTINUED...<BR><BR>DESSERT - Is there anything more enjoyable than Creme Brulee in Paris?<BR><BR>L'ADDITION, S'IL VOUS PLAIT (say - ladeesyawng seel voo pleh) - This is one French phrase to remember. Once you complete your meal your waiter/waitress will not bring your check until you request it. Obviously this means, "The check, please".<BR><BR>TIPPING - In almost every restaurant service is included in the price of the meal. Unless the menu says, "NON COMPRIS", you are not expected to leave one additional euro cent. Many people leave only loose change for the waiter/waitress. If you receive unusually good service or have a special request fulfilled, you can leave a few euros.<BR><BR>BAGUETTES - In the afternoon watch the Parisian’s on their way home with a loaf of French Bread tucked under their arm or in their hand. Notice the end is always missing. The crusty end is called "Le Crouton" and is enjoyed as a snack on the way home.<BR><BR>SMOKING - One word "disgusting". How could such a beautiful country which serves such amazing food allow this stink to invade a good meal? Some of the cutest places can be destroyed but the chain smokers who don't seem to care. If you visit in the summer always shoot for a table which is outside to avoid the puffing cloud. Of course, France has "non fumer" laws but no one seems to care. You will see people smoking in the Metro, at the airport and in shops even though these are all no smoking zones. When I travel I always have to convince myself that this is how it is and you cannot do anything about it. You just can't. I always blame the American tobacco companies who have lost their grip on the USA. They use Europe and Asia to raise their revenue. Such beautiful people, such a filthy habit. No wonder why I don't see a lot of Europeans in California where smoking is just about illegal everywhere except for on the street (in case you don't know smoking is illegal in all work places in the state of California. This includes restaurants, nightclubs and bars). It amazes me to watch people smoke in between every course, while eating and while other at their table are still eating.<BR><BR>CONTINUED...
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:20 PM
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CONTINUED...<BR><BR>POOP - One of the most beautiful cities in the world and they cannot control the dog sh*t on the street. Amazing and disgusting. Watch where you step.<BR><BR>SCARVES - There was a posting which stated how Parisian’s had a special gene for tying a scarf. She was right! Parisian’s do have a gene for tying a scarf. Its not just the women, the men do it too! Ladies, bring some scarves! The posting was called "Now that I'm back from Paris I have the answers to many of the questiosn" (with 'questions' spelt wrong), by ann ([email protected]).<BR><BR>MONMARTE - I hated this place when I first visited it in 1982 and on this trip, 20 years later, I still hated it. This is a big tourist trap and a seedy part of the city. Its a shame the beautiful views and the beautiful Basilique du Sacre-Coeur is located here. The area is rampant with pickpockets, beggers, vagrants and icky tourists. What the hell is this place? If you must see Sacre Coeur, go early and don't plan on eating in this area, the restaurants are as seedy as the people hanging out here. <BR><BR>ARC DE TRIOMPHE AND THE CHAMPS ELYSEES - Again, to me, this is not Paris. The Arc de Triomphe is amazing and bigger than life. A definate "must see". See it, take a stroll on the Champs and leave. The Champs is just an overgrown shopping mall filled with chain stores, Burger joints and Ice Cream shops. Attractive, but a big tourist trap.<BR><BR>CONTINUED...<BR>
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:21 PM
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CONTINUED...<BR><BR>BEST BOOKS - The best book I used for my trip were as follows : *For Bistros - "Bistros of Paris" by Robert and Barbara Hamburger, * For General Info and Hotels - "Fodors Paris", For Sightseeing - "Frommers Paris", *For Neighborhood Guides - "Access Paris". *For Fun - "Avant Guide Paris", *For Language - "Berlitz French Phrase Book". I didn't bring all of these with me. I simply photocopied all the pages I wanted, printed a bunch of stuff off the internet and arranged them by category (shops, sights, restaurants, info, etc). I made a creative cover and divider pages on my computer. I took it to my local Kinkos and had it spiral bound for a very small cost. Very handy and lighter than bringing 6 books. You can even photocopy neighborhood maps and mark the sights, restaurants and shops you want to see.<BR><BR>P.S. If you eMail me I will tell you how you can get these books real cheap!<BR><BR>BEST MAPS - By far, "The Paris Mapguide" by Penguin reference (ISBN# 0-14-046962-1). I usually like the "Streetwise" maps but not for Paris.<BR><BR>WORST BOOK - "Great Eats in Paris". This lady is a bit out of touch. I don't think her recommendations looked very good. She also lists places which are ugly, have bad service (and she admits it) and are in out of the way areas. Save your money, get the book "Bistros of Paris" and use Fodors recommendations. I also think the book "Irreverent Guide to Paris" was also pretty bad.<BR><BR>PARISHUTTLE - www.parishuttle.com . There has been a lot of discussion about this service on this forum. It is as good as any airport shuttle service here in the US (you know what that means). Its also an inexpensive way to go from the airport to you hotel. You have a few options like - Taxi (expensive), Air France Bus (not to your hotel door), RER metro line (do you really want to do this after a long flight and with your luggage?), walk (oh! thats too far!). If you use the search function for "parishuttle" you will see my experience as well as others. My recommendation - Use Parishuttle, reserve via eMail but don't pay by credit card. This way if you change your mind or don't want to wait for a pick up, you won't be charged. Here is my experience - <BR><BR>CONTINUED...
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:22 PM
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CONTINUED...<BR><BR>On Arrival - I pre-reserved but I did not pre pay by credit card (just in case). I called Paris shuttel as they requested when i arrived at baggage claim. They told me which exit number to go to after I claimed my luggage. My luggage was delivered very fast and I went to the exit and there was no shuttle. I waited 15 minutes and called Parishuttle again and he said the driver would arrive soon since he was stuck in traffic outside the airport. After waiting another 10 minutes I called again and he said the driver was outside. When I went outside there indeed was a driver but he refused to take me and said that there were many Parishuttle vans in the airport and I should wait for mine. I called again and he said MY driver has just pulled up. I went outside and met the driver. As I was the only passenger we immediately departed for the hotel. The driver drove like a crazy maniac exceeding speeds of 110 KPH. As I am from Los Angeles I am use to high speed traffic, but this was un-nerving. I also noticed that there was no traffic incoming to the airport as previously reported by the dispatcher.<BR><BR>Return to CDG - On my return the driver was a bit early, this was good because I was ready and he still had another passenger to pick up. This took a long time due to the morning traffic in the city. We got to the airport on time but I will say that they PACKED us into the van and filled it to capacity. This meant 3 people in the front seat which was a bit much condsidering I didn't want to get familiar with another passenger or the driver.... Sitting on the hump with the stickshift between your legs is not fun.<BR><BR>Overall, I say the service is decent and better than the rail but cheaper than a taxi. You get what you pay for. The service is the same as what is to be expected from one of the shuttle services that operate here in the US (like Supershuttle). I also recommend that you call them immediately when you get off the plane, don't wait to get to the baggage claim area where there aren't a lot of telephones.<BR><BR>METRO www.ratp.fr - The Metro is the best way to zip across the city or save a few steps when crossing the Seine. There are a number of different day and week passes aimed at tourists. These offer everything from museum discounts to shopping bargains. Wanna keep it simple? Single tickets cost 1.30 euro, a book of 10 tickets costs 9.30 euro, BUT.... what the RATP doesn't tell you on their websight is you can also buy a one week ticket which allows you to get on and off as many times as you want for 13.25 euro. Tickets are easy to buy in the Metro station from the automated machines which have a function that helps you in English. Good news! You can also pay with your credit card at the automated machine! (click on the link marked INTERNATIONAL for English section)<BR><BR>CONTINUED...
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:23 PM
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CONTINUED...<BR><BR>MORE METRO - The Metro is easy to navigate. Be sure you know which line you need and what the termination point of your train is to find it. Some of the Metro stations are very big and have maze like tunnels linking trains and connections. The Chatelet Station is know as the "Worlds Largest" metro station with endless corridors and tunnels. Sometimes you'll feel like you've walked halfway across the city! Know the name of the street exit closest to your hotel or destination for a quick exit. As in every city, the Metro is crowded, hot and busy at rush hour and sometime late on weekend nights as people rush out to the clubs and cafes.<BR><BR>PAGES JAUNES http://www.pagesjaunes.fr - I love this websight! If you put the address of your hotel, restaurant, shop (or anything) in the box that says "Adresse" and hit the button marked "Rechercher", it will give you a map of the location plus a photo of the place you entered. If you don't know the address, just put in the name and it will help you find the address. The English version is not curtrently operating but will be available soon. The French version is easy enough to navigate once you get use to it.<BR><BR>EASY EVERYTHING http://www.easyeverything.com - This British chain of internet cafes is a great way to check Email or send a message back home. You can get on line for about 2 euro for an hour. Simply buy a ticket from the automated machine and use the passcode on the ticket to sign on. They have three locations in Paris located in the Latin Quarter, Sebastopol or St Lazare areas. Check the websight for the exact address. Warning! The French keyboard layout is not the same as the English keyboard so it can be a bit strange to use. Easy Everything also operates a no frill, low cost airline called EASY JET. They fly all over Europe! http://www.easyjet.com<BR><BR>ATM'S - I used my ATM a few times and found only one machine which wouldn't take my card. This is the best way to get the best rate on cash (euros). European ATM's only take cards with a 4 digit pin. If you have more than 4 digits as a pin, call your bank and get a new number. Warning! Don't plan to get cash at the ATM in CDG Airport when you arrive. I only saw one machine which had a line of about 300 people waiting for cash. Bring enough Euros with you to get you into the city, then use an ATM. Banks are everywhere. Should you arrive on a weekend, bring enough Euros to get you through the weekend (just in case). If the ATM doesn't give you cash, you can always get it inside from the bank service center. <BR><BR>CONTINUED...
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:24 PM
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CONTINUED...<BR><BR>CREDIT CARDS - Accepted almost everywhere. Some shops have minimums, usually around 15 euros. If you pay by credit card, most banks will add a "conversion fee" of anywhere from 2%-6%. Conversion fee? Isn't this all done by computer? Silly banks! Call your credit card service center before leaving home to get their policy. I also heard about a few people who used ATM's who have 5 digit pins and sucessfully got cash by only entering the first 4 numbers. I am not sure if I recommend this.<BR><BR>JOURNALS - Bring a journal to write about things. This is how I remembered all this! I also like to stuff little things in it like labels, cards, receipts, tickets, etc. When I open it later and find them, it makes me happy.<BR><BR>WEBSIGHTS - Here are some websights I found most helpful--<BR><BR>Hotels - http://www.pariserve.com/ and http://www.parishotels.com<BR><BR>Metro - http://www.ratp.fr/<BR><BR>Train Schedules - http://www.raileurope.com (for schedules only, buy the ticket cheaper when you arrive)<BR><BR>Restaurants - <BR><BR>Zagat restaurant ratings http://www.zagat.com (as always, reliable restaurant ratings)<BR><BR>Freres Blanc Brasseries http://www.blanc.net<BR><BR>Others<BR><BR>Manray Bar/Restaurant http://www.manray.fr (everyone always asks about this place)<BR><BR>Spoon Food and Wine http://www.spoon.tm.fr/<BR><BR>FINI!
Apr 28th, 2002, 08:59 PM
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Richard:<BR>Absolutely the BEST trip report I've ever read! I love the common-sense approach you took and the hints and tips are exactly as I would have written for someone. Can't thank you enough, except to tell you that I've cut and pasted for my fall trip to Paris and I'm sending it to a friend who's going later in the year, as well.<BR><BR>Many thanks!
Apr 29th, 2002, 12:56 AM
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One note about buying carnets from the machines. This spring, there has been a problem with some tickets having faulty magnetic stripes. They won't work (embarrassing when you have a line of people behind you). If your metro ticket doesn't work for some reason (and you're sure it's not a used ticket), go to the ticket booth and ask them to check ALL your tickets. They will promptly replace any faulty tickets and will check that the replacements are functioning properly. On two trips to Paris this year, about 30% of my metro tickets (bought in carnets from machines) were defective.
Apr 29th, 2002, 03:34 AM
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My daughter and I leave for Paris-6days-3days Tours,-3 days Avignon,3days Nice,exactly 2 weeks from today. Never been to France, so I know your report is just what we need. The practical aspect. Would like to know restaurants, museums, and other places visited. Thanks so much.
Apr 29th, 2002, 04:04 AM
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Thanks for the great report. We leave for Paris in one month, and your reflections are very much appreciated. I especially liked the info. about paris shuttle, which I was just getting ready to reserve.<BR>I really hope the smoking problem isn't as bad as you say; nothing ruins a meal more -- we will take your advice about eating early to avoid the smoke crush.<BR>Pam<BR>
