Filling in Scotland itinerary gap
Aug 29th, 2023, 10:30 AM
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Filling in Scotland itinerary gap
Hi, we are planning to go to Scotland for 15 nights late May/early June 2024 but could extend length if need. Still, in 15 nights, our plan is to fly into Edinburg for 3 nights, get rental car and go to Borders (Melrose) for two nights, and then I am stuck with next location where we would stay for 2 nights. In general, I am trying to set stays for 2-3 nights, and our interests are general Scottish experience, castles and gardens, pretty villages along the coast, and religious & historic sights. Maybe we will play one round of golf somewhere too.
After this gap, we are planning to go to Mull (Tobermory probably) for 3 nights, then over to Highlands for 3 nights (thinking Nairn but could be Grantown or somewhere else), then to Fife villages and Crail (or St. Andrews) for 2 nights, and then home.
If we go longer than 15 mights, I'd add Plockton as a stop, and change some of the 2 night stays into 3 night stays for more relaxation and local trips from the bases.
From Melrose, I wanted to go to Culzean Castle (unless it is too far out of the way) and then thought we'd stay in Inveraray, as pushing along to Tobermory is just too long a drive. Wasn't sure if maybe we should stay in Oban instead, or maybe we should go to Glasgow instead? Is it too far to go from Melrose to Tobermory in one day's drive? On Mull, we do want to go to Fionnphort and see Iona. We'd have the car though at that point. We aren't huge fans of cities and have thought we'd get more of a flavor of Scotland from the smaller towns/villages, but maybe I'm wrong there. Not sure how to fit in Sterling Castle either which seems like a place we'd enjoy seeing.
Oh, and one of us (four adults going) said she read how great a place for Scotch whisky is Arran Isle! Maybe Scotland should be two trips, one to north and one to south!
Thanks!
After this gap, we are planning to go to Mull (Tobermory probably) for 3 nights, then over to Highlands for 3 nights (thinking Nairn but could be Grantown or somewhere else), then to Fife villages and Crail (or St. Andrews) for 2 nights, and then home.
If we go longer than 15 mights, I'd add Plockton as a stop, and change some of the 2 night stays into 3 night stays for more relaxation and local trips from the bases.
From Melrose, I wanted to go to Culzean Castle (unless it is too far out of the way) and then thought we'd stay in Inveraray, as pushing along to Tobermory is just too long a drive. Wasn't sure if maybe we should stay in Oban instead, or maybe we should go to Glasgow instead? Is it too far to go from Melrose to Tobermory in one day's drive? On Mull, we do want to go to Fionnphort and see Iona. We'd have the car though at that point. We aren't huge fans of cities and have thought we'd get more of a flavor of Scotland from the smaller towns/villages, but maybe I'm wrong there. Not sure how to fit in Sterling Castle either which seems like a place we'd enjoy seeing.
Oh, and one of us (four adults going) said she read how great a place for Scotch whisky is Arran Isle! Maybe Scotland should be two trips, one to north and one to south!
Thanks!
Aug 29th, 2023, 11:44 AM
#2
Welcome to Fodors.
A few random comments -- Arran isn't particularly known for Whisky -- though the Lochranza distillery is there. But in any case you have plenty of opportunities to viait a distillery or two. In Oban, Tobermory, Grantown-on-Spey, Dufftaown, Nairn etc.
"Is it too far to go from Melrose to Tobermory in one day's drive? "
It sure would be for me
It would be close to a 7 hour drive plus stops plus ferry. If you have a 2 night gap after the Borders -- then yes, Ayrshire/Culzean/Burns sites would be a good stop. Say from near Prestwick to Tobermory would still be a 5-ish hour drive but at least shorter than from Melrose.
For Golf at one of the classic links courses -- Prestwick would be a great choice. Very historic having been the site of the very first Open and a total of 25 - though it hasn't been on the rota since 1925. Plus it costs quite a bit less than the Old Course, or Carnoustie, or Turnberry . . .
In general I really like your plan - small changes could be made here and there but they would only be because of personal preference. You actually have a pretty good pace. You can't see all of Scotland in fifteen months, let alone 15-ish days and you have laid out a pretty good plan. (You should see some of the lulu's that have been posted here -- trying to cover as much or more than you have and trying to do it in half the time
)
A few random comments -- Arran isn't particularly known for Whisky -- though the Lochranza distillery is there. But in any case you have plenty of opportunities to viait a distillery or two. In Oban, Tobermory, Grantown-on-Spey, Dufftaown, Nairn etc.
"Is it too far to go from Melrose to Tobermory in one day's drive? "
It sure would be for me
It would be close to a 7 hour drive plus stops plus ferry. If you have a 2 night gap after the Borders -- then yes, Ayrshire/Culzean/Burns sites would be a good stop. Say from near Prestwick to Tobermory would still be a 5-ish hour drive but at least shorter than from Melrose.For Golf at one of the classic links courses -- Prestwick would be a great choice. Very historic having been the site of the very first Open and a total of 25 - though it hasn't been on the rota since 1925. Plus it costs quite a bit less than the Old Course, or Carnoustie, or Turnberry . . .
In general I really like your plan - small changes could be made here and there but they would only be because of personal preference. You actually have a pretty good pace. You can't see all of Scotland in fifteen months, let alone 15-ish days and you have laid out a pretty good plan. (You should see some of the lulu's that have been posted here -- trying to cover as much or more than you have and trying to do it in half the time
)
Last edited by janisj; Aug 29th, 2023 at 11:47 AM.
Aug 29th, 2023, 12:04 PM
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Inveraray is a good stop on the way to the ferry. Loch Fyne is one of my favourite areas. Ardkinglas woodland garden is nearby and worth a visit.
Islay is the whisky island.
Personally seen one whisky distillery you've seen them all, and expensive if all you want is the samples at the end of it. Remember drink driving law is very strict in Scotland - the driver would need to take their samples home with them.
Islay is the whisky island.
Personally seen one whisky distillery you've seen them all, and expensive if all you want is the samples at the end of it. Remember drink driving law is very strict in Scotland - the driver would need to take their samples home with them.
Aug 29th, 2023, 12:21 PM
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Mull - is a real mixed bag for accommodation - the two good quality hotels are Glengorm castle which is isolated and Tiroran which is being renovated. I’d actually dump the car and get the foot ferry over to Iona and stay at the St Columba hotel which is lovely. The main advantage being you get the island to your self when the day trippers have all left. Fionnphort has one of the best campsites in the UK but I’m not sure that would fit in. You can take a boat trip from Fionnphort to Fingal’s Cave in Staffa which had incredible basalt rock formations similar to The Giant’s Cuaseway in Ireland. The trip usually stops at Lungha which in May should be mobbed with nutty Puffins - a life time experience - they are fun and very approachable. Just remember to ask the hotel how Saint Columba acquired Iona - lovely stuff.
From Iona travel through the stunning Loch Na Keal where you should be able to see White Tailed Eagles (huge). Turn left at the end of Loch Na Keal and go up to the other side to Ulva Ferry. Here you enter a new world - the Scotland of old. The island was bought by its community in 2018. In a reversal of the clearances, the very small population is attractIng new residents to start a life on the small island. The restaurant in the old ferry house serves the best seafood I have ever tasted and I’ve sailed all over the world and spent 55 years having holidays by the sea in 5 continents and the Arctic Circle!!! Before Covid - it was that good. There are paths around the island.
From here - drive through Calgary to Tobermory - take the ferry to Kilchoan and visit Ardnamurchan lighthouse at Sanna’s beaches which belong in The Bahamas.
Drive down the beautiful Loch Sunart - if you stay in Acharacle there’s a beautiful walk by the River Shiel to Tioram castle.
From here drive to Fort William via Glenfinnan and it’s viaduct - if you really must you could take the Jacobite steam train (bloody hogwarts express) to Mallaig enjoying stunning seascapes of Skye and Arisaig beach but enduring 100s of brats waving wands.
From FW drop into Glencoe for the greatest 20 mile drive the UK has to offer - if you have time turn right down Glen Etive which is a dead end. It was the most magical place in the UK before Skyfall was filmed there - now it’s very busy with trippers parking their Ford cars and pretending to be James Bond (who drove a DB5 not a Ford Focus). Ian Fleming’s family had an estate to the end of Glen Etive which is now owned by the National Trust.
From here head over to the East coast - of which I have absolutely no interest in as it is full of pseudo posh Scots who have spent most of their time trying to destroy our nation over 500 years and they are still at it …..over the JanisJ ?
From Iona travel through the stunning Loch Na Keal where you should be able to see White Tailed Eagles (huge). Turn left at the end of Loch Na Keal and go up to the other side to Ulva Ferry. Here you enter a new world - the Scotland of old. The island was bought by its community in 2018. In a reversal of the clearances, the very small population is attractIng new residents to start a life on the small island. The restaurant in the old ferry house serves the best seafood I have ever tasted and I’ve sailed all over the world and spent 55 years having holidays by the sea in 5 continents and the Arctic Circle!!! Before Covid - it was that good. There are paths around the island.
From here - drive through Calgary to Tobermory - take the ferry to Kilchoan and visit Ardnamurchan lighthouse at Sanna’s beaches which belong in The Bahamas.
Drive down the beautiful Loch Sunart - if you stay in Acharacle there’s a beautiful walk by the River Shiel to Tioram castle.
From here drive to Fort William via Glenfinnan and it’s viaduct - if you really must you could take the Jacobite steam train (bloody hogwarts express) to Mallaig enjoying stunning seascapes of Skye and Arisaig beach but enduring 100s of brats waving wands.
From FW drop into Glencoe for the greatest 20 mile drive the UK has to offer - if you have time turn right down Glen Etive which is a dead end. It was the most magical place in the UK before Skyfall was filmed there - now it’s very busy with trippers parking their Ford cars and pretending to be James Bond (who drove a DB5 not a Ford Focus). Ian Fleming’s family had an estate to the end of Glen Etive which is now owned by the National Trust.
From here head over to the East coast - of which I have absolutely no interest in as it is full of pseudo posh Scots who have spent most of their time trying to destroy our nation over 500 years and they are still at it …..over the JanisJ ?
Aug 29th, 2023, 12:28 PM
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OK - the others can type quicker than me -
Hets is right Islay is your best bet for whisky distilleries Laphraoaig has a good tour is my favourite non Talisker whisky. Lochranza is not the best and Arran is lovely but again not the best Scotland has to offer, it’s a great short trip from Glasgow and it’s about as far as it goes.
and yes Hets is right - it’s something I always forget the drink driving limit here is 22mg on a breath test which means a packet of wine gums sends you over. I haven’t seen random testing for 20 years but if you are caught with an other traffic violation, you could be tested. Don’t drink whilst enjoying a meal.
and Janis is right Melrose to Tobermory is a very long day - spend the night in Oban - it has the feel of a frontier town (where all the ferries depart) but has 3 VERY good seafood restaurants.
Turnberry was (and is) a stunning property but has to be viewed in the context of its current owner (recognizable by his mugshot).
Hets is right Islay is your best bet for whisky distilleries Laphraoaig has a good tour is my favourite non Talisker whisky. Lochranza is not the best and Arran is lovely but again not the best Scotland has to offer, it’s a great short trip from Glasgow and it’s about as far as it goes.
and yes Hets is right - it’s something I always forget the drink driving limit here is 22mg on a breath test which means a packet of wine gums sends you over. I haven’t seen random testing for 20 years but if you are caught with an other traffic violation, you could be tested. Don’t drink whilst enjoying a meal.
and Janis is right Melrose to Tobermory is a very long day - spend the night in Oban - it has the feel of a frontier town (where all the ferries depart) but has 3 VERY good seafood restaurants.
Turnberry was (and is) a stunning property but has to be viewed in the context of its current owner (recognizable by his mugshot).
Last edited by BritishCaicos; Aug 29th, 2023 at 12:38 PM.
Aug 30th, 2023, 05:07 AM
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Thank you for the feedback! I did want to go to Stonehaven which looks so pretty in photos and visit Dunnottar Castle, and my thought was to leave Grantown early, get over to Stonehaven for lunch going through CockBridge and Ballater, and then visit Dunnotar, and then continue south to St, Andrews or Crail via Dundee. We could go south along the coast to Arbroath and get a smokie too. We could just stay in Dundee and visit the Fife villages from there too, although if we made it to Dundee it isn't much more to continue to Fife. This trip from Grantown to Fife or Dundee with the castle visit sounds like a long day of driving, but maybe breaking it up into segments would make it more palatable. I could also go from Dunnotar directly to Stirling, or somewhere to west of Stirling in the Trossachs - maybe Callander or Aberfeldy?- especially if we visit the Fife villages as a day trip from Edinburgh. Our base after Grantown would be for 2-3 nights most likely, I guess question is which we would enjoy more, 2-3 nights in Fife area exploring the villages or 2-3 nights in Callander /Stirling area. Again, we could extend the trip to make it all work. We are flying in/out of Edinburgh so getting to airport is probably easier from Stirling area. We are choosing to miss Glasgow and also Skye on this trip. I likely will extend trip to include Plockton and go visit Applecross area from there. Am very excited to think about Scotland!
Aug 30th, 2023, 07:42 AM
#7
I'm chuckling at some of BritishCaicos' understated views on things like posh pseuds and wand-waving brats. C'mon, say what you mean.
I don't have any quarrel with your general plan, but I did find myself thinking about alternatives, really just for the sake of stirring the pot, or as they'd say in Fife, bubbling the cauldron.
What if... and just what if... you rearranged things into an anti-clockwise (i.e. counterclockwise) route around the country. Here's the thinking.
While it might be splitting hairs, there's probably a statistically slightly better chance of dry weather on the east coast in late May than in the west. What if, after getting your body clocks set in Edinburgh, you started with castle-and-village exploration in the Borders and the Northumberland coast, rather than the Borders followed by Ayrshire en route to Argyll? Nothing against Burns country and Culzean Castle, but a loop through the eastern Borders and Northumbrian coast might allow you some "twofers" or even "threefers" if that's a word.
For example, some of the best links golf courses in Scotland are located on the East Lothian coast immediately east of Edinburgh - Dirleton, Gullane, Dunbar - and as you carry on toward and over the English border there are picturesque fishing villages like St. Abbs, and impossibly historic villages like the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, stunning Bamburgh Castle, and then it's an easy drive up the Tweed (if you choose) toward the likes of Melrose, Selkirk and other Borders communities - abbeys, more castles.. You could then scoot past Edinburgh and over the Forth to Fife, for the next part of the trip, up the east coast. Here's a skeleton map showing this idea, with just a few waypoints. https://goo.gl/maps/f376uKg9A7PE4quK9
By the way, if you haven't yet gotten familiar with Undiscovered Scotland - Undiscovered Scotland: Home Page - now's the time.
The map shows a stop in magical Falkland, then it's through the East Neuk fishing villages and St. Andrews, then across the Tay to Angus and up the coast through historic Arbroath and toward Dunnattor Castle, before heading east up the Dee valley and ultimately west toward Glen Coe et al. A couple of nights' stop in, say, Braemar, would allow an easy day trip up to some Speyside distillery if that's an important destination. I've also shown the map ending in a fave village, Fortingall, although you could easily stop in Pitlochry, Aberfeldy, or any of the other towns along that part of the A9, Another map - https://goo.gl/maps/hAqWyaR41Mqt1LmX9
From there it's west to Glen Etive, Glen Coe, Mull and Argyll. In addition to Mull itself, the mainland parts of Argyll are so densely packed with terrific destinations that you're going to be bewildered by the choice. One of my reasons for suggesting this direction of loop is that IMO) the visual impact of seeing Glen Etive followed by Glen Coe heading westbound is way greater than the eastbound alternative.
Again, the map doesn't do justice to the variety. https://goo.gl/maps/mjukerjpzPqVUyrM7
Now this is a lot of driving, much of it (especially in the west) on single track roads, so I'd take Google's time estimates with considerable skepticism. On the other hand, you'll have very long daylight hours, and boredom behind the wheel will be a problem exactly never. So maybe give it some brain time and see what you think. You still have lots of time to ponder your choices.
I don't have any quarrel with your general plan, but I did find myself thinking about alternatives, really just for the sake of stirring the pot, or as they'd say in Fife, bubbling the cauldron.
What if... and just what if... you rearranged things into an anti-clockwise (i.e. counterclockwise) route around the country. Here's the thinking.
While it might be splitting hairs, there's probably a statistically slightly better chance of dry weather on the east coast in late May than in the west. What if, after getting your body clocks set in Edinburgh, you started with castle-and-village exploration in the Borders and the Northumberland coast, rather than the Borders followed by Ayrshire en route to Argyll? Nothing against Burns country and Culzean Castle, but a loop through the eastern Borders and Northumbrian coast might allow you some "twofers" or even "threefers" if that's a word.
For example, some of the best links golf courses in Scotland are located on the East Lothian coast immediately east of Edinburgh - Dirleton, Gullane, Dunbar - and as you carry on toward and over the English border there are picturesque fishing villages like St. Abbs, and impossibly historic villages like the Holy Island of Lindisfarne, stunning Bamburgh Castle, and then it's an easy drive up the Tweed (if you choose) toward the likes of Melrose, Selkirk and other Borders communities - abbeys, more castles.. You could then scoot past Edinburgh and over the Forth to Fife, for the next part of the trip, up the east coast. Here's a skeleton map showing this idea, with just a few waypoints. https://goo.gl/maps/f376uKg9A7PE4quK9
By the way, if you haven't yet gotten familiar with Undiscovered Scotland - Undiscovered Scotland: Home Page - now's the time.
The map shows a stop in magical Falkland, then it's through the East Neuk fishing villages and St. Andrews, then across the Tay to Angus and up the coast through historic Arbroath and toward Dunnattor Castle, before heading east up the Dee valley and ultimately west toward Glen Coe et al. A couple of nights' stop in, say, Braemar, would allow an easy day trip up to some Speyside distillery if that's an important destination. I've also shown the map ending in a fave village, Fortingall, although you could easily stop in Pitlochry, Aberfeldy, or any of the other towns along that part of the A9, Another map - https://goo.gl/maps/hAqWyaR41Mqt1LmX9
From there it's west to Glen Etive, Glen Coe, Mull and Argyll. In addition to Mull itself, the mainland parts of Argyll are so densely packed with terrific destinations that you're going to be bewildered by the choice. One of my reasons for suggesting this direction of loop is that IMO) the visual impact of seeing Glen Etive followed by Glen Coe heading westbound is way greater than the eastbound alternative.
Again, the map doesn't do justice to the variety. https://goo.gl/maps/mjukerjpzPqVUyrM7
Now this is a lot of driving, much of it (especially in the west) on single track roads, so I'd take Google's time estimates with considerable skepticism. On the other hand, you'll have very long daylight hours, and boredom behind the wheel will be a problem exactly never. So maybe give it some brain time and see what you think. You still have lots of time to ponder your choices.
Aug 30th, 2023, 07:45 AM
#8
PLEASE don't stay in Dundee! The town is mostly a dump but putting a lot of effort into its port area trying to attract visitors
Either choice (inland to Stirling/Callander) or Fife would work but if it was me (and understanding that the Trossachs are close to my favorite region in the entire country) . . . I'd do the Dunnottar/Fife option and stay in Crail or Anstruther. (BTW you can get Arbroath Smokies almost anywhere in the country -- most B&Bs will offer them for breakfast)
Instead of trying to squeeze Fife in a day trip from Edinburgh, I'd do Stirling as a day trip instead. It is a quick train ride from central Edinburgh and an easy day trip.
Either choice (inland to Stirling/Callander) or Fife would work but if it was me (and understanding that the Trossachs are close to my favorite region in the entire country) . . . I'd do the Dunnottar/Fife option and stay in Crail or Anstruther. (BTW you can get Arbroath Smokies almost anywhere in the country -- most B&Bs will offer them for breakfast)
Instead of trying to squeeze Fife in a day trip from Edinburgh, I'd do Stirling as a day trip instead. It is a quick train ride from central Edinburgh and an easy day trip.
Aug 30th, 2023, 07:48 AM
#9
I was posting the same time as Gardyloo - Haven't read his post yet but he does usually offer great advice - I was mostly trying to work with the plan you already have but figure Gardyloo has offered some different options. Will read it over in a few minutes . . .
Aug 30th, 2023, 08:18 AM
#10
Lots in Gardyloo's post to unpack . . . and he makes some terrific suggestions. Understanding that I LOVE Northumberland, and find Fortingall fascinating, I personally would probably stick to close to your original plan. If time was no object you could do it all and see it all but otherwise its just a fact you will see many unforgettable/awesome places . . . and you will miss even more unforgettable/awesome places 
Some of his suggestions could easily be incorporated into your original framework - Glencoe/Glen Ettive and St Abbs Head for example.
Some of his suggestions could easily be incorporated into your original framework - Glencoe/Glen Ettive and St Abbs Head for example.
Aug 30th, 2023, 02:39 PM
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I am certainly not a Scottish expert having been only once (May/June 2023) but I did plan a spectacular trip with great advice from janisj, gardyloo, BritishCaicos, etc. If you wish, you can click on my name to read my trip report with photos.
Two of the most beautiful areas we visited are Skye and Glen Coe!!! I heartily agree with BritishCaicos about driving down the Glen Etive Road. The scenery is spectacular and will be filled with rhododendrons in May/June. We spent 2 nights in Glen Coe at the Glencoe Inn. Our trip was around the same time as yours: May 29 to June 15 for a total of 16 nights on the ground.
We stayed in Nairn (a lovely seaside village) which we loved (about 30 minutes from Inverness). From Nairn, we visited Elgin Cathedral, Cawdor Castle and Gardens, Culloden Battlefield, whisky tasting at Glen Moray Distillery, and Urquhart Castle (on the way to Skye). We loved our stay at the Sunny Brae B&B in Nairn. The hosts are wonderful, beautiful rooms, and great location across the street from the sea.
https://sunnybraenairn.co.uk/
We also spent 2 nights on the Fife Coast in the fishing village of Anstruther. We stayed at the Waterfront Hotel and loved our stay here, including their delicious and filling breakfasts. We visited St. Andrews and Crail from Anstruther, and walked a short distance on the Fife Coastal Path.
https://www.anstruther-waterfront.co.uk/
Two of the most beautiful areas we visited are Skye and Glen Coe!!! I heartily agree with BritishCaicos about driving down the Glen Etive Road. The scenery is spectacular and will be filled with rhododendrons in May/June. We spent 2 nights in Glen Coe at the Glencoe Inn. Our trip was around the same time as yours: May 29 to June 15 for a total of 16 nights on the ground.
We stayed in Nairn (a lovely seaside village) which we loved (about 30 minutes from Inverness). From Nairn, we visited Elgin Cathedral, Cawdor Castle and Gardens, Culloden Battlefield, whisky tasting at Glen Moray Distillery, and Urquhart Castle (on the way to Skye). We loved our stay at the Sunny Brae B&B in Nairn. The hosts are wonderful, beautiful rooms, and great location across the street from the sea.
https://sunnybraenairn.co.uk/
We also spent 2 nights on the Fife Coast in the fishing village of Anstruther. We stayed at the Waterfront Hotel and loved our stay here, including their delicious and filling breakfasts. We visited St. Andrews and Crail from Anstruther, and walked a short distance on the Fife Coastal Path.
https://www.anstruther-waterfront.co.uk/
