AussieMel

Hey Fodorites - thanks for all your help getting me to this stage - the daunting final frontier - the LAST LEG of my Italian venture. My entire northern/central escapade is more or less settled on and partially booked up until a remaining few days before I return to Rome and then Australia!

We're winding up a week in Florence on the 24th of October and were originally intending to stay in Perugia for several days following, with day trips to Assisi/Orvieto however I was thinking that a slightly quieter interlude between Florence and Rome might be appreciated by this stage.

If you had two or three evenings to spare in one medieval hilltown in Tuscany/Umbria or even Lazio where would you spend it?

Grinisa

I like both Trevi and Spello. They are centrally located for daytrips to Perugia, Assisi, Gubbio, Spoleto, Todi, Bevagna, Montefalco, Norcia and Orvieto. They are charming hilltowns but both, especially Trevi, seems to be entirely made up of uphill climbs. Spello has several good restaurants right in town and Trevi has one of the best restaurants in Italy at its base, Dal Pescatore, on the banks of a small river.

Athena39

I stayed in Spello, Umbria for three nights a couple of years ago. I fell in love with this beautiful walled hilltop town with Roman ruins. We stayed in the Hotel Palazzo Bocci, which was very reasonable and fabulous. It is right across the street from one of the best restaurants in the region, Il Molino. there is another restaurant in town called Il Cacciatore that has a great terrace and good food -- very inexpensive. There are a number of churches, the most famous being Santa Maria Maggiore with the famous Pinturicchio fresco. I had my hair done (color and cut) in the beauty shop, and that was great fun, since the beautician spoke no English and I am hopeless in Italian. She did a good job on my hair! I also had laundry and dry cleaning done -- excellent and quite reasonable. It is a short drive to Assisi, and a much better place to stay, since it is not nearly so touristy. We also did a day trip to Gubbio (where I bought some gorgeous hand-painted pottery), and to Spoletto. I think Spello would satisfy your desire to be somewhere rather quiet.
Another good choice is Monteriggioni. There is an excellent hotel there, Hotell Monteriggioni. Check to be sure that the restaurant Il Pozzo is open at the end of October, otherwise, I would skip Monteriggioni.

bobthenavigator

Good question, and Spello is certainly a good choice. I would add Montepulciano to your list. It is easy access from A-1, has good food options, and is well located for day trips in the south Tuscany area. Or, if you want a rural setting in that area look at www.letraverse.it near Pienza--a nice B&B with an owner that speaks good English.

Eloise

Another vote for Spello, for most of the reasons already given -- I did not have my hair done there.

Laurie

AussieMel,
We seem to be traveling in the same circles!

We are staying for a week at: http://www.ilcassero-tuscany.com/
We have booked the Alcova apartment.

Lucignano is a very well preserved medieval town in SE Tuscany. We chose this location because it is within a 1 hour drive to many towns that we want to visit. We plan to go to Montalcino, Siena, Montepulciano, Pienza, and the Chianti region.

When I researched Lucignano, I found that there are many great restaurants in the town. We are really looking forward to trying them!

Luigi, the apartment owner, has been very prompt and kind when answering my emails. You can stay for a week or a few nights and he is flexible about when you can arrive.

Here is another website that tells about this area: http://www.kilkelly.com/valdichi.html

Hope you have a great time! Planning is half the fun!
Laurie

AussieMel

Thanks for the great suggestions - lots of love for Spello I see! I read somewhere recently that a motorway had been constructed near the town, creating an unfortunate eyesore between Spello and Assisi. There's a great 8km hike inbetween the two towns I also read about which balances the scales though.

The pink stone/sunsets of Assisi is really appealing. I've got it narrowed down to Spello/Assisi and Orvieto in Umbria I think. although I just realised the Eurochocolate Fest is on in Perugia at the time I'd arrive, making Perugia pretty alluring again! Any arguments for/against Perugia inbetween Florence and Rome stops by the way? Perugia fans? I'm without car btw.

Also San Gimignano and Arezzo are taking my fancy in Tuscany and as Bob mentioned - Montelpulciano has its charms too. Decisions decisions.

janelp

Orvieto or Montepulciano---in my mind your best choices for the end. Both are charming and special. For pictures of both--go here http://www.janeandken.com/italy2004/Tuscany2004.html
You will love all you see and do!!

DRJ

If its Orvieto try Locanda Rosati, a memorable ten room place a few km south of town. Great dinners that went on until the wine and grappa was gone. In town there's I Setti Consoli, a terrific restaurant. Buon viaggio.

Healthgirl

I thought I would wait until the end of summer to ask this, but what is there to do and see in Montalcino? We're staying at the Il Giglio in September for a break between Rome and Florence. We want a sightseeing break but not boredom.

DRJ

I stayed in Montalcino for a week a few years ago. Brunello is the game. The Rocca, of course, is where you go to taste all the varieties. A trip to, for instance, Fattoria Barbi, a few km south, for a tour of the winery and dinner (a good restaurant). Pienza is just down the road as is Montepulciano.

AussieMel

Laurie - Great minds! I'll be sure to do a little Lucignano research, you're yet to fail me!
Janelp - thanks so much for the trip report and photo link - fantastic! The profile of Orvieto's duomo etc was one of the more stunning pictures I've seen of it - gave you a real insight into the walkers perspective. It's all but tipped me over.
For Umbria - best decently priced hotels in Orvieto/Assisi/Spello with views anyone? I've read the threads but they're ageing a little. Great, thanks!

Eloise

In Assisi, many of the rooms at the Hotel Umbra (just off the main piazza in Assisi) have great views.

In Spello, the Palazzo Bocci is a four-star but much cheaper than four-stars in larger towns. It too has rooms with views of the Umbrian countryside.

AussieMel

Thanks Eloise - the Palazzo Bocci looks gorgeous, it may be a little out of my budget though sadly. Any rants for Orvieto hotels that are under E100 and well-located/views/clean etc? I've heard the Duomo mentioned a couple of times as well as the Virgilio - though the latter has received a few poor reviews elsewhere.

Also, nobody has come to Perugia's defence as of yet, not even when there's chocolate involved?! Anybody love Perugia??? Worth a day trip only maybe? Thanks.

Dayle

Hi Healthgirl,

I will also be at Il Giglio in Montalcino in Sept. (22, 23, & 24). When will you be there? If it works, we ought to collect a few Fodorites and have a GTG! Brunello definitely on the menu!

AussieMel

Okay, Montepulciano and Orvieto are fairly firmly sketched in now. I'll also be taking day trip peeks at Pienza, Assisi and Spello. Just wondering also, could I get to Pitigliano without a car if I wanted to? Bus? It looks great, and also...what about Civita di Bagnoregio without car?

AussieMel

Sorry, topping this because the more I research the more I'm incredibly intent to visit if not stay in Pitigliano for at least a night AND the more my confusion regarding transport is compounded! I've read there's an incredibly complicated bus route from Rome but I'm kinda hoping to get there from central Tuscany or Orvieto. Anyone know if this is doable without a car? Thanks, Mel