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Fall Tuscany Itinerary: Opinions & Advice Sought

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Fall Tuscany Itinerary: Opinions & Advice Sought

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Old Jul 23rd, 2011, 07:42 AM
  #101  
 
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The listing says "private parking" so assume it would be fine.The answer sounds like you will receive another response to your question. Our hotel within the walls took our car to their private parking lot for us as it was rather confusing to find.We loved Lucca and being within the city walls.
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Old Jul 25th, 2011, 09:39 AM
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I'm having a tough time deciding between apartements!

Option 1
http://www.vrbo.com/367485
The second bedroom will be turned into an adult room. I like the fact that is's on the ground floor. But it's the most expensive of the bunch.

Option 2
http://www.homelidays.co.uk/lucca/ap...-321651en1.htm
I like the balcony, and that it's only up on flight of stairs. It does not have the private parking as the ad states, nor does it have laundry or wifi. It's the least expensive

Option 3
http://www.homelidays.co.uk/lucca/ap...t-46596en1.htm
http://www.viadeiborghi.it/Index_e.html
This has many good reviews. Pay parking seems to be close by. No wifi & up 2 flights of steep steps according to the reviews.

I'd love opinions!
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Old Jul 25th, 2011, 11:30 AM
  #103  
 
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Hi aimeekm

I've been looking at these 3 apartments and I suppose I would take #1 with hesitation. The furniture looks so tiny. I always like a couch, and it says there is one, but I usually like to see everything before making a decision. Is it comfortable? Hard to guess without seeing it. I can't see a map either so I hate to say go for it without seeing the location.

#2 - you say the ad states it has private parking, but it does not actually have that? I'm a bit confused by that. What else does it say that it might not have? That would make me nervous. Would the stairs bother your mom?

I love #3 from the pictures, but I'm thinking that would not be the best for your mom. It says it is on the 2nd floor so what that usually means in Europe is it would be up 3 flights of stairs.

You mention wi fi for 2 of the apartments. Does this mean that you would prefer wifi?

Have you considered a hotel? For instance, we stayed at the Universo Hotel. It had an elevator, refrigerator, included breakfast, wifi, and was close to the shops and restaurants, (parking is a few minutes away so it's probably not the best choice for you, but you are allowed to drive up to it to drop off your mom and luggage if you give your license plate number). I don't want to add confusion, but maybe you should look at a few hotels before committing to an apartment since it's only for 3 nights. I looked at quite a few that would have suited our needs before deciding on the Universo. After staying in an apartment in Rome, my husband said he would prefer a hotel in Rome next time, so apartments don't always suit everyone, although I did enjoy it. He liked having someone around if he had a question.
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Old Jul 25th, 2011, 04:29 PM
  #104  
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Thanks for your reply kwren!

I agree, none of the apartments are "perfect"! I usually look and look and then I find that one that I know is right. No such luck in Lucca, so far.

We generally prefer apartments. It's not that we cook, or even spend a lot of time in them. Just while we're there it's nice to have the extra space & privacy. Mom & I together for 12 days straight definitely tries both of our patience at times! All the places I picked have two bedrooms, so we won't disturb each other if one wants to stay up late or get up early. Apartments just seem like so much value, lots of space and amenities for the money.

Wifi isn’t a deal breaker, but a strong preference. Our lodging the 3 nights prior will not have wifi. So I’d like to check emails, make sure our flights are still on schedule etc. If my employer is willing to turn on my global roaming capabilities, then wifi is not as important. But that’s still in discussion.


#1 ... Yes, not a lot of pictures. I like the wifi & the laundry. Ground floor and courtyard are definite plusses. There is no map, but it’s inside the walls. I think both closer to the walls, or towards the center both have pros & cons. Closer to the walls means closer to free parking, and a more authentic neighborhood feel. Closer to the center means a shorter walk to the heart of things, but farther from parking. Size and comfort of furniture (other than beds) are not terribly important considering the short time we’ll be staying in Lucca.

#2 …. I’m totally in love with the balcony. I can imagine having my breakfast of cheese, salami & Coke Light there every morning (short of rain). I’m not sure what’s up with the parking. Here is what the owner said “Regarding the parking is not available but also that there are public ones nearby (less than 5 minutes walk) in the area of Corso Garibaldi. For luggage on arrival and departure can I personally take with my car.” (Google translated). No laundry or wifi. One flight of stairs are ok, especially since we get a balcony. But really it’s the balcony that is drawing me to this one, along with a great price.

#3 …. I like that the shower is separate from the bathroom, better for two women getting ready in the morning. Laundry is a plus, but no wifi. I feel more confident that there are so many good reviews. One of the pay lots appears to be very close, big bonus for our 3 am departure. This is my least favorite décor. (but like you kwren, this was my co-workers fave). But the stairs, ugh, I don’t want to dread going home at night. My mom can definitely handle it, but do we want to?

Thanks for the link to the hotel. It looks lovely, and the twin room is a bargain! I guess my hesitation with hotel rooms is feeling all claustrophobic and crowded, especially considering European hotel rooms are generally so much smaller than American ones. I really don’t require much from the hotel staff, so that’s not really a consideration. In Istanbul my friend and I became very friendly w the hotel manager, he asked me later why we never asked him for advice or directions, didn’t we trust him …lol! But the price, wifi, elevator & minibar definitely make consider it.

I’m currently leaning towards # 1 or #2 …..
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Old Jul 26th, 2011, 04:05 AM
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I'm a big fan of outdooor space whenever possible when I'm staying in a city. We had a small terrace at our hotel in Lucca last May and it made a world of difference. Same with Florence a few years back. There are times when you need/want to be back at your hotel/apartment but sitting inside just isn't appealing. A light breakfast, some wine before dinner, 30 minutes soaking in the night before going to bed - these are all things that are way more enjoyable sitting on a terrace/balcony vs an old couch looking out a window. Eliminate the 3-floor walk up wth no outdoor space.

I don't think you need to worry so much about the parking, either. Do you think you'll use the car that much? At most you'll use it once a day, and maybe not at all one or two days. Don't pick a place for that reason. Focus on this things that will make the stay more enjoyable (location, outoor space, decor, etc). I think #1 sounds the best for you. Has a courtyard, close enough to parking, wi-fi, laundry (so nice to bring hom clean clothes). I know it's the most expensive, but if it fits best I don't think you'll even remember the extra 100 or so euro when you and mom are thinking back over your trip a few months from now.

You're going to have a great trip.
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Old Jul 27th, 2011, 08:33 AM
  #106  
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Thanks for everyone's advice! We decided to go with option 1! The ground floor, courtyard, laundry & wifi were the deciding factors. The bonus is I didn't realize the quote was in USD not Euros, so it ended up being the least expensive of the 3 after all!

So I have all my accomodations booked!

Night 1 - Florence
B&B Floralia
http://www.bbfloralia.it/
I actually found this on Venere, but contacted the B&B directly. I ended up with a quad room at a great price.

Nights 2-4 - Castellina in Chianti
http://www.affittacamerelacastellina.com/index_e.html
This is the apartment next door to Palazzo Squarcialuppi, with all the Palazzo Squarcialuppi amenities, spa, wifi, etc..

Nights 5-7 - Agritourismo outside Pienza
Casa Frati
http://www.agriturismo.it/en/farmhou...715/index.html
We're in the 2B2B apartment. I love the working farm aspect!

Nights 8-10 - Lucca
http://www.vrbo.com/367485
Love the courtyard!

But my favorite part of all of these ... total for 10 nights is $1,000!!
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Old Jul 27th, 2011, 08:53 AM
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It's a great plan - well thought out and the price is right! Isn't it fun to put it all together?! Have fun!
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Old Jul 27th, 2011, 10:20 AM
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<I>I love the working farm aspect! </i>
Me, too!

When we were there the first week of November, all the farmers were plowing their fields late into the night. Don't know if a freeze was coming or what, but they worked from dawn til about 11pm. We could see their headlights from our hilltop and were lulled to sleep by the chugg-a chugg-a of all those old WWII-era tractors.

A tone-deaf rooster woke us up laughing each morning! We could hear Papa feeding the animals and then setting off on his tractor...before we snuggled in another hour or so while the apartment heated up. I did manage a sunrise walk one morning. It was magnificent.

Again, in the apartments, pay close attention when they're showing you how the heat, coffee pot, etc. work. Ask questions if it's not clear.

In Castellina, we ate at a very good restaurant. Pasta with boar sauce...yummy. I think it must have been the La Torre. Out front door of Pzo Squarcialuppi, slight right, up some stairs or steep street up to next level, restaurant on left. It was cozy and inviting on a cold night. Across the street from hotel there was a restaurant with good pizza and a great buffet, including salad bar.

Another favorite: In Pienza--Latte di Luna. Everything was fabulous.

And, in tiny Montechiello: Il Porto. The town was practically shut down, we only saw one other person that afternoon. But we came back that cold, cold night because we'd heard such good things about the restaurant. They had a fire going, it was lovely. There were only a couple of other tables. But, as we eventually discovered, one of the other tables was the <I>brother of my good friend back home</i>!! Everyone was amazed and it turned into a really fun night for all. Food and wine were awesome. (We had worried about driving after dinner. But there was so little traffic that it really wasn't bad. Distances are relatively short, so we rarely drove more than 10 or 15 minutes.)
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Old Jul 27th, 2011, 11:52 AM
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You mentioned your wanting to visit Siena on market day. Something even better- if your timing is right, I highly recommend a visit to the Antique Market in Arezzo. It is known as the best in all of Italy and it is a joy to explore. This article mentions it as well as other markets and the days they are held. Have fun!

http://www.florencevillas.com/newsle...letter_25.html
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Old Jul 27th, 2011, 12:35 PM
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Good luck with everything. Don't forget to report back when you get home.

I second and third the vote for Osteria La Porta in Montichiello. One of the best aruond.
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Old Jul 27th, 2011, 01:01 PM
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La Porta's gelato is supposed to be fabulous, so that's another good reason to go to Montichiello. (See if you can find out before going if it's open - we drove all the way there to find it was closed...and I had promised my daughter the best gelato in Tuscany...according to another Fodorite.)
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Old Jul 28th, 2011, 08:38 AM
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Thanks everyone! I'm excited to have everything booked. It's also especially exciting to have it all be so affordable and not feel I have had to compromise anything to make it so.

Thanks for the recomendations. I'm getting hungry just thinking about them! Latte di Luna was already on the radar. I hadn't heard though of Osteria La Porta in Montichiello, but now it's on the to do list. I plan to get the Slow Food guide to Italy and use it pretty religiously. Last time we were in Rome and Florence I didn't do any research. We just stopped where we were hungry. Unfortunately that lead to some pretty uninspiring meals. So I'm determined to do better this time!

zoecat - Thanks so much for that link! I absolutely love outdoor markets of all types. They are always some of my fondest travel memories.

Now that I know where we are staying, now comes part 2 of planning.... how to spend our time.
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Old Jul 28th, 2011, 11:19 AM
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Sant'Antimo abbey...for the Gregorian chants. Easy access from Pienza.

http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/sant_antimo.htm

On the road up from Montalcino you'll pass some of the world's most famous (and beautiful) vineyards. As you approach the abbey, you will make a sharp right turn to access the valley it is in.

After visiting the abbey, we went back to where that sharp turn was and had lunch at the restaurant right on the turn. (Tiny, tiny town). It was Sunday and the place was filled with families...quite festive. And delicious! Afterwards, we drove on up through the mountains and found everyone was out for La Passeggiata. We would come upon entire families, nonna dressed in her long black dress, leaning on son's arm. The other women followed behind as they all strolled down the mountain road. It was like a scene out of "The Godfather"! We were totally charmed.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2011, 09:42 PM
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Interesting that Casa Frati is on the radar for Pienza. There really isn't much about them, review wise. We watched the apartments being built, while hiking from Pienza, on a previous trip and are staying there too this fall. They looked nice and are in a picture perfect setting. They are on a dirt road with some ruts, more used for farmers and hikers. We also met the owner, and she seemed very sweet. The apartments aren't far from Pienza and definitely in walking distance on a dirt road, but there is a pretty good hill to climb to get to Pienza and that might be difficult for your mother. You will probably need to drive her the short distance. The good news is that in November, there should be more parking. Also FYI, the weather is changeable there. We have been there three or four times in October and usually the weather is pretty good, but we had a really cold spell once, so bring layering.
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Old Aug 3rd, 2011, 11:26 PM
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After three unanswered emails we tried Casa Frati on various other website agencies too. Not one response. So we've booked now at B+B Camere Andrei which looks good too....
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Old Aug 4th, 2011, 09:34 AM
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So strange that Casa Frati didn't return yeshekathy or Tommmo's emails. Mine were all answered within 24 hrs. The only thing maybe is I wrote my emails in Italian?

Packed - Glad to hear that you saw Casa Frati and liked it enought to book. I'm hoping it will be a hidden gem!

Getting so excited for this trip! I'm really looking forward to all the lodgings I've booked!

Now I'm working on a rough itinerary for each day. There is so much in Tuscany I want to see, I need to figure out what's realistic.

I'm also trying to decide if we should use Luca from Hills and Roads. I like the idea of getting off the beaten track a little and seeing things that aren't in the guide book. And potentially places that aren't generally open to tourists (wineries, olive oil production etc.), i.e. the real Tuscany, as cheesy as that sounds. But it's a pretty big splurge for a budget trip, especially considering our paid for rental car will be sitting idle that day. Decisions, decisions!
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Old Aug 4th, 2011, 10:13 AM
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I like the Rough Guide Tuscany and the Insight Guides Tuscany guidebooks for helping me plan day trips. I also highly recommend a very detailed map. You want a map that includes the smaller, "white" (dirt/gravel) roads. Some of the most beautiful landscapes and treasures can be discovered while driving these roads. The tourist offices also carry very detailed maps. You can get one for each region of Tuscany you'll be staying.

This is a good map, but you can find maps with even more detail if you want-

http://www.trektools.com/ProductDeta...821&Click=1473

Do try visiting some of the smaller towns, not just the major ones. For instance- the small village of Rocca d'Orcia. It is located within 15 minutes of Pienza and is a quiet, no cars allowed village on the side of a hill with incredible views. If you walk up to the top of the village there is a nice park that overlooks the Val d'Orcia. In the park there is an old tower where they have regular art exhibits by local artists. There is also a nice restaurant in the town with outside seating. You won't find Rocca d'Orcia listed in many guidebooks, but it is a lovely visit.

With such short periods in each area, it might be a good idea to hire Luca. I've never used him. You might try to do so on your first day in Chianti so that you can become quickly (somewhat) familiar with the area. Besides the places he will take you I am sure he will have other recommendations for your remaining days.
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Old Aug 4th, 2011, 08:16 PM
  #118  
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Thanks zoecat! I just order the Tuscany guides you recomended, as well the Slow Travel restaurant guide. I've honestly been really disappointed in the lack of detail in the standard guides for any of the towns smaller than Siena or Pisa.

I already have the TCI map. Thanks for giving me the confidence to take the "white" roads. Are they driveable in a compact car? Four wheel drive not needed?

Isn't it crazy 9 full days barely scratches the surface of Tuscany?
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Old Aug 4th, 2011, 08:16 PM
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"love the working farm aspect!"
All agriturismi must be working farms--i a higher percentage of their income must come from farming, rather than tourism (room rental, etc) for it to officially be categorized as an Agriturismo.

Enjoy your trip-sounds wonderful, Aimee! If you can drive up to Montefiorrale from Castellina, i recommend a walk this tiny little village (enter from the top for your Mum)
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Old Aug 4th, 2011, 08:25 PM
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http://www.janeandken.com/Greve/GreveRestaurants.html

above was my favorite guide to the local restaurants in Chianti, by fokks who live(d) there.

if you can it's q quick drive to Montefioralle from Castellina. Tiny village, worth a walk around (abut ten minutes !) -you'll probalby be the only ones out on the street. Enter from the top parking lot for our Mum We parked below, after happening upon it after making a turn onto a dirt road! It wsn't steep, but will be easier for her if you park in front (as you are coming FROM Greve)
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