EZE, FRANCE
Apr 13th, 2008, 05:40 PM
#3
there are two EZe, each five miles west of Mont'Carlo. Eze-bord-sur-mer is a pleasant seaside village. but simple Eze is a onetime medievil fortress on the summit of a mountain. the views are spectacular. lots of shops and a number of charming churches. There is a jardin exoctique (cactus) and paintings in the musée d'histoire et art religieux.
Apr 13th, 2008, 06:12 PM
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I go by bus from Nice. The views from the bus are amazing. The village itself is perched on a mountain. I just walk the narrow walkways and steps, check out some of the shops, but mostly I enjoy the buildings and views.
Apr 13th, 2008, 08:59 PM
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Interesting that you would ask. We just returned (10 days ago) from Eze (we stayed at the Eze Vista ($200/night...and not actually in "old" Eze...but immediately adjacent), a hotel building comprised of apartments) for 4 nights at the end of a 28 day trip to France (including 2 days in Geneva).
Eze is a small, medieval, mountain-top village, largely comprised of shops and restaurants and a few hotels and private residences. The 2 4/5 star hotels/restaurants ($450 and up....WAY up) in "old" Eze are the Chateau Eza and the Chevre D'Or. As you will find, EVERYTHING in France/Europe is VERY EXPENSIVE. I'm NOT kidding!!!!
There is a wonderful municipal garden at the very top of Eze. Worth doing. E3/person, if I recall correctly. Other than that..there isn't much else to do...other than wandering around the town poking dead things with a stick.
On a recommendation (it was late after a day of wandering around...I think we had gone to San Remo, Italy and back via the Middle Cornish) we went to the Le Mas Provencal. It was trés bizarre....like eating in a botanical garden enclosed in glass. (I'm reminded of the Strybing Arboretum in SF's Golden Gate Park.) Be forwarned, tho...our not-extravagent dinner was $300. Chevre D'Or would be considerably more expensive.
Last, Eze is at the top of the (considerably high) bluff that runs along the coast from Nice to Italy. Consequently, it's fairly remote...eg...getting to the beach is a non-trivial event (we had a car).
The best tip I can give you is...the little boulangerie/pâtisserie next to the Eze Vista on the main road. Best breakfast (read inexpensive) you can get. Wonderful quiches, pastries and cafe au lait/espresso.
Eze is a small, medieval, mountain-top village, largely comprised of shops and restaurants and a few hotels and private residences. The 2 4/5 star hotels/restaurants ($450 and up....WAY up) in "old" Eze are the Chateau Eza and the Chevre D'Or. As you will find, EVERYTHING in France/Europe is VERY EXPENSIVE. I'm NOT kidding!!!!
There is a wonderful municipal garden at the very top of Eze. Worth doing. E3/person, if I recall correctly. Other than that..there isn't much else to do...other than wandering around the town poking dead things with a stick.
On a recommendation (it was late after a day of wandering around...I think we had gone to San Remo, Italy and back via the Middle Cornish) we went to the Le Mas Provencal. It was trés bizarre....like eating in a botanical garden enclosed in glass. (I'm reminded of the Strybing Arboretum in SF's Golden Gate Park.) Be forwarned, tho...our not-extravagent dinner was $300. Chevre D'Or would be considerably more expensive.
Last, Eze is at the top of the (considerably high) bluff that runs along the coast from Nice to Italy. Consequently, it's fairly remote...eg...getting to the beach is a non-trivial event (we had a car).
The best tip I can give you is...the little boulangerie/pâtisserie next to the Eze Vista on the main road. Best breakfast (read inexpensive) you can get. Wonderful quiches, pastries and cafe au lait/espresso.
Apr 13th, 2008, 10:38 PM
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>>>As you will find, EVERYTHING in France/Europe is VERY EXPENSIVE. I'm NOT kidding!!!!<<<
This is certainly a gross misjudgement.
To be sure, Eze is a beautiful medieval village on top of a mountain - but you find at least a dozen others in the area which are at least equally beautiful. From Eze, you have a stunning view - but also from many other places along the corniches.
Eze has become the tourist trap number one on the Cote d'Azur. Especially Americans (including many Fodorites) are crazy about Eze. I assume, the reason is that Eze is handily located for cruise ship excursions and has thus become a popular destination.
Becoming a tourist trap had some consequences for Eze:
- The prices for hotels and restaurants have been skyrocketing in the last years and are now completely out of proportion. Please do not judge the price level in France or Europe if you have been to tourist traps only!
- The historical village has been converted to a museum village. Wikipedia writes correctly: "It has many shops, art galleries, hotels and restaurants that attract a large number of tourists and honeymooners. As a result Èze has become a "museum village", few local residents live here."
When we visit Cote d'Azur (what we frequently do), we spend no more than 10 minutes in Eze. Park your car, enjoy the view, take a photo and proceed further. NEVER enter a restaurant there (you can burn your money instead).
And please, if you come to Europe, also visit the authentic places. There are so many of them and, with the help of the Fodorites, there are easy to find. And you will be stunned how inexpensive Europe in reality is.
This is certainly a gross misjudgement.
To be sure, Eze is a beautiful medieval village on top of a mountain - but you find at least a dozen others in the area which are at least equally beautiful. From Eze, you have a stunning view - but also from many other places along the corniches.
Eze has become the tourist trap number one on the Cote d'Azur. Especially Americans (including many Fodorites) are crazy about Eze. I assume, the reason is that Eze is handily located for cruise ship excursions and has thus become a popular destination.
Becoming a tourist trap had some consequences for Eze:
- The prices for hotels and restaurants have been skyrocketing in the last years and are now completely out of proportion. Please do not judge the price level in France or Europe if you have been to tourist traps only!
- The historical village has been converted to a museum village. Wikipedia writes correctly: "It has many shops, art galleries, hotels and restaurants that attract a large number of tourists and honeymooners. As a result Èze has become a "museum village", few local residents live here."
When we visit Cote d'Azur (what we frequently do), we spend no more than 10 minutes in Eze. Park your car, enjoy the view, take a photo and proceed further. NEVER enter a restaurant there (you can burn your money instead).
And please, if you come to Europe, also visit the authentic places. There are so many of them and, with the help of the Fodorites, there are easy to find. And you will be stunned how inexpensive Europe in reality is.
Apr 14th, 2008, 02:47 AM
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> Eze has become the tourist trap number one on the Cote d'Azur.
I discovered Eze only recently, the first time being 3 years ago and have been to Eze-Village (Eagle's Nest) 3 times so far.
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ceoct06071.jpg
The Jardin Exotique is one of the the main attractions for the gorgeous view, for a small fee.
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ov20050207.jpg
In the garden, there is an especially quiet area where you can lie on a woodden long chair, always with the view. I can spend more than a few hours altogeter in the village. I didn't find the place a tourist trap at all but you must know those were in October, November & January, all off season, so very quiet, some times many shops were closed. Hotel Chèvre d'Or was open only in October. I enjoyed a glass of rosé champagne at the terrace of Chèvre d'Or at sunset, expensive it was but a friend was paying ;-).
http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ceoct06123.jpg
I discovered Eze only recently, the first time being 3 years ago and have been to Eze-Village (Eagle's Nest) 3 times so far.
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ceoct06071.jpg
The Jardin Exotique is one of the the main attractions for the gorgeous view, for a small fee.
http://s23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...ov20050207.jpg
In the garden, there is an especially quiet area where you can lie on a woodden long chair, always with the view. I can spend more than a few hours altogeter in the village. I didn't find the place a tourist trap at all but you must know those were in October, November & January, all off season, so very quiet, some times many shops were closed. Hotel Chèvre d'Or was open only in October. I enjoyed a glass of rosé champagne at the terrace of Chèvre d'Or at sunset, expensive it was but a friend was paying ;-).
http://s29.photobucket.com/albums/c2...ceoct06123.jpg
Apr 14th, 2008, 11:34 AM
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I think sometimes new posters do not understand the volume of information at their fingertips...nobody was trying to be rude, it's just that we didn't quite know what the poster wanted to know...the questions was "has anyone been to this medieval village..." Now that I know the poster wants to know what there is to DO there...
Breathtaking views from the garden - do pay the fee and visit this incredible place.
A yellow church that captivated me - the little cemetery too was delightful to stroll through. I loved the beautiful tributes to family members...this was oddly one of the highlights for me in Eze.
A tour through Fragonard was fun and of course we had to buy some perfumes to take home to family.
Don't skip Eze...it's exquisite.
Breathtaking views from the garden - do pay the fee and visit this incredible place.
A yellow church that captivated me - the little cemetery too was delightful to stroll through. I loved the beautiful tributes to family members...this was oddly one of the highlights for me in Eze.
A tour through Fragonard was fun and of course we had to buy some perfumes to take home to family.
Don't skip Eze...it's exquisite.
Apr 14th, 2008, 11:47 AM
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I'm actually of the 'skip Eze' viewpoint. I think it is an overcrowded tourist trap. I was there 20 years ago and thought it was charming, but after my most recent trip (2 yrs ago), I will never go back.
Yes, the views are spectacular... the entire Cote d'Azur is also.
Yes, the views are spectacular... the entire Cote d'Azur is also.
Apr 14th, 2008, 11:54 AM
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Places like this can vary in romance greatly depending on when you went there
in summer it's a zoo of tour bus groups
other times it may revert to an old (but never 'medieval' village IMO) and be captivating because of the nifty views, gardin, church, etc
so opinions can vary greatly and are influenced by the time you go
and at night it's probably a romantic nest high above the frey of the Riviera
in summer it's a zoo of tour bus groups
other times it may revert to an old (but never 'medieval' village IMO) and be captivating because of the nifty views, gardin, church, etc
so opinions can vary greatly and are influenced by the time you go
and at night it's probably a romantic nest high above the frey of the Riviera
Apr 14th, 2008, 12:43 PM
#18
Yes, it is touristy, but it still is one of the most charming towns on the Riviera. Every time we are in the area, it's a must stop.
My favorite shop is one that makes pillows that tie up to look like a teddy bear--great gift for a baby.
The prices were high, but at least you COULD buy something. Not like St. Paul de Vence, where it was very high-end art and not much else.
Also, I agree, the garden at the top is not to be missed.
My favorite shop is one that makes pillows that tie up to look like a teddy bear--great gift for a baby.
The prices were high, but at least you COULD buy something. Not like St. Paul de Vence, where it was very high-end art and not much else.
Also, I agree, the garden at the top is not to be missed.
Apr 14th, 2008, 01:10 PM
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>>>As you will find, EVERYTHING in France/Europe is VERY EXPENSIVE. I'm NOT kidding!!!!<<<
"This is certainly a gross misjudgement."
gasoline is $8.50 - $9.00/gal.
Tolls on the expressway between Nice and San Remo are approx. $4-$5 every 7 - 10 miles.
café au lait is $3.75 - $4/cup (small).
Chicken is ~$3/lb; lamb is $14/lb; fish was typically $12-$18/lb
small (12 oz?) salami-like sausage was about $9.
bananas were about $3/lb
A medium bag (1) of groceries (and you have to either A. bring your own bag, B. buy a bag or C. carry all your purchases in your hands) at Casino (S. France's Safeway) was $100. (We bought food twice in Villefranch-sur-Mar as we had a 2 bedroom apartment for a week...and it was $100 both times.)
At modest lunch at a $$ restaurant is $25-$40 (including wine) per person.
Dinner (3 courses + cafe) including wine at $$ restaurants are $60 - $100 per person.
breakfast (croissants & coffee) are typically $12-$15 per person.
coke (cans) are about $3 - $4 from a machine.
gross misjudgement? I think not. Suffice it to say costs are about 50% - 300% more than what you would pay in the US.
The only things we found that were (relatively) cheap...were bread and wine. Fortunately those are 2 of the 5 major food groups.
"This is certainly a gross misjudgement."
gasoline is $8.50 - $9.00/gal.
Tolls on the expressway between Nice and San Remo are approx. $4-$5 every 7 - 10 miles.
café au lait is $3.75 - $4/cup (small).
Chicken is ~$3/lb; lamb is $14/lb; fish was typically $12-$18/lb
small (12 oz?) salami-like sausage was about $9.
bananas were about $3/lb
A medium bag (1) of groceries (and you have to either A. bring your own bag, B. buy a bag or C. carry all your purchases in your hands) at Casino (S. France's Safeway) was $100. (We bought food twice in Villefranch-sur-Mar as we had a 2 bedroom apartment for a week...and it was $100 both times.)
At modest lunch at a $$ restaurant is $25-$40 (including wine) per person.
Dinner (3 courses + cafe) including wine at $$ restaurants are $60 - $100 per person.
breakfast (croissants & coffee) are typically $12-$15 per person.
coke (cans) are about $3 - $4 from a machine.
gross misjudgement? I think not. Suffice it to say costs are about 50% - 300% more than what you would pay in the US.
The only things we found that were (relatively) cheap...were bread and wine. Fortunately those are 2 of the 5 major food groups.
Apr 14th, 2008, 02:26 PM
#20
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Costs in France:
Last year we stayed in a 3 bedroom house in a central loaction in Provence. It was very private, had a large pool, & a 10 min walk to a very nice town with an excellent weekly market. We've stayed in about 30 different gites/houses in various regions in France and Provence is the most expensive. We paid 675E/$1,020 per week in June. Anyone know what a similar place would cost in the Napa Valley??
This year we're staying in a 2 bedroom house on Lake Annecy in Talloires. It has views of the lake from all rooms. In June we're paying 600E/$900 per week. Anyone know what a house on the lake in Lake Tahoe with a view would cost??
Also this year we're staying in the Jura in a large 3 bedroom place in the countryside for 320E/$480 in June.
When you consider gas costs in France, also remember that their cars get better mileage than ours do.
Cafe creme & 2 croissants that we have at the cafe near our place in Provence cost about 3-4E per person. We sit & watch the school kids go to school, or watch the vendors set-up their booths for the weekly market, or the bicyclists heading up Mt Ventoux.
Roast chickens are very inexpensive in France.
Cepes at a farmers market in France are around 30E/Kilo or $12/lb. At our grocery in the San Francisco area, they are around $50 per lb.
Hotels in the Napa Valley are ridiculous - and you usually must get a 2 night minimum on weekends. Same with Carmel.
We dine out at about 40 restaurants each year in France. We're big foodies, but won't pay the price for Michelin 2 & 3 star restaurants. I usually get a 50E 5 course menu - plus an amuse bouche for 50-60E, & my wife probably averages 30E for 3-4 courses. With kirs & a full bottle of wine, that's 120E/$180. If we had a 5 course & 4 course meal plus amuse bouche at a top restaurant in San Francisco or Napa Valley, it would cost at least 50% more than that.
Here is a "typical" place where we dined in '06 in Beaujolais. The food was excellent. Note - it's sa 6 course meal
Menu dégustation unique
45,00 €
Lundi 14 avril 2008, auberge du paradis saint amour
- Sablé fondant aux graines d’épices, tranches de filet de boeuf charolais
en mi-cuisson servies froides, marinade au tandoori, salade de
cresson Alénois aux zestes d’oranges et soja, crème de fromage fort au cumin.
- Samoussa croustillante de crevette « tigre » accompagnée de lard fumé,
menthe et cannelle, petit pois mentholé, jus des carcasses à l’écorce de cannelle.
- Demi pigeonneau élevé aux grains de la « maison Michel » parfumé à l’estragon,
citron, anis vert et pistache, des bouts d’asperges vertes
assaisonnées d’huiles de pistaches, oeufs hachés et coulis de fruit de la passion.
- Assiette de fromage au lait cru, poudre d’une épice
ou faisselle fermière à la crème épaisse.
- Compote de poire, glace à l’huile de sésame toasté « du moulin de Beaujeu »,
tuile de sésame et grog au rhum artisanal de Martinique.
- Moelleux à l’aneth, rémoulade de fenouil au sucre citronné, sorbet à la mangue,
crème anglaise et véritable vinaigre Balsamique.
Stu Dudley
Last year we stayed in a 3 bedroom house in a central loaction in Provence. It was very private, had a large pool, & a 10 min walk to a very nice town with an excellent weekly market. We've stayed in about 30 different gites/houses in various regions in France and Provence is the most expensive. We paid 675E/$1,020 per week in June. Anyone know what a similar place would cost in the Napa Valley??
This year we're staying in a 2 bedroom house on Lake Annecy in Talloires. It has views of the lake from all rooms. In June we're paying 600E/$900 per week. Anyone know what a house on the lake in Lake Tahoe with a view would cost??
Also this year we're staying in the Jura in a large 3 bedroom place in the countryside for 320E/$480 in June.
When you consider gas costs in France, also remember that their cars get better mileage than ours do.
Cafe creme & 2 croissants that we have at the cafe near our place in Provence cost about 3-4E per person. We sit & watch the school kids go to school, or watch the vendors set-up their booths for the weekly market, or the bicyclists heading up Mt Ventoux.
Roast chickens are very inexpensive in France.
Cepes at a farmers market in France are around 30E/Kilo or $12/lb. At our grocery in the San Francisco area, they are around $50 per lb.
Hotels in the Napa Valley are ridiculous - and you usually must get a 2 night minimum on weekends. Same with Carmel.
We dine out at about 40 restaurants each year in France. We're big foodies, but won't pay the price for Michelin 2 & 3 star restaurants. I usually get a 50E 5 course menu - plus an amuse bouche for 50-60E, & my wife probably averages 30E for 3-4 courses. With kirs & a full bottle of wine, that's 120E/$180. If we had a 5 course & 4 course meal plus amuse bouche at a top restaurant in San Francisco or Napa Valley, it would cost at least 50% more than that.
Here is a "typical" place where we dined in '06 in Beaujolais. The food was excellent. Note - it's sa 6 course meal
Menu dégustation unique
45,00 €
Lundi 14 avril 2008, auberge du paradis saint amour
- Sablé fondant aux graines d’épices, tranches de filet de boeuf charolais
en mi-cuisson servies froides, marinade au tandoori, salade de
cresson Alénois aux zestes d’oranges et soja, crème de fromage fort au cumin.
- Samoussa croustillante de crevette « tigre » accompagnée de lard fumé,
menthe et cannelle, petit pois mentholé, jus des carcasses à l’écorce de cannelle.
- Demi pigeonneau élevé aux grains de la « maison Michel » parfumé à l’estragon,
citron, anis vert et pistache, des bouts d’asperges vertes
assaisonnées d’huiles de pistaches, oeufs hachés et coulis de fruit de la passion.
- Assiette de fromage au lait cru, poudre d’une épice
ou faisselle fermière à la crème épaisse.
- Compote de poire, glace à l’huile de sésame toasté « du moulin de Beaujeu »,
tuile de sésame et grog au rhum artisanal de Martinique.
- Moelleux à l’aneth, rémoulade de fenouil au sucre citronné, sorbet à la mangue,
crème anglaise et véritable vinaigre Balsamique.
Stu Dudley
