Europe (London/Berlin/Venice) Last MinutepPractical/Ordinary
Oct 29th, 2014, 10:12 AM
#41
Dukey - the only thing that we have in common right now is that we both had REAL sea bass for dinner last night.
The Peggy Guggenheim Suite, complete with powder room for guests? [who on earth are you planning on inviting? the bands?] I am totally wracked by jealousy. The Savoy and the Gritti all on one trip. Truly how the other half live.
The Peggy Guggenheim Suite, complete with powder room for guests? [who on earth are you planning on inviting? the bands?] I am totally wracked by jealousy. The Savoy and the Gritti all on one trip. Truly how the other half live.
Oct 29th, 2014, 07:54 PM
#43
I am sure you two queens took a water taxi over to Pantagruelica in Piazza San Barnaba to stand next to Foodsnob and order some Montasio.
The Gritti is a huge step up. Don't you usually stay at the Bauer?
I can just picture the two of you wandering around Venini with your matching Fendi bags!
Say 'hi' to the rent boys in the bar at Cipriani.
All my love,
Thin
The Gritti is a huge step up. Don't you usually stay at the Bauer?
I can just picture the two of you wandering around Venini with your matching Fendi bags!
Say 'hi' to the rent boys in the bar at Cipriani.
All my love,
Thin
Oct 29th, 2014, 10:22 PM
#44
Original Poster
It is interesting, isn't it, when you mention so-called "high end" (what many might say is a euphemism for "over-priced") organizations some of the responses it brings?
Last evening at dusk we went back over to San Marco as the lights were coming on. It was a bit more crowded than I had expected. Last summer when we were in Florence there were people selling these lighted parachute type "toys" which you launch into the air and watch them float to earth. The piazza in front of Santa Maria Novella was full of the things.
Apparently some of them have moved to Venice because they were all over the piazza last night trying to make a living. Add in a few folks selling those selfie phone/camera holders; the knock-off bag sellers were nowhere in evidence. Both Quadri and Florian seemed to have lots of patrons but most of them were inside due to the chill. The piano players in both orchestras were wearing down jackets.
And I feel it necessary to mention that despite a whole bunch of Fodorite "experts" telling people that the gondola rides are a rip-off and that doing so is akin to wearing a fanny pack, I suggest you shout louder.
Yesterday, during lunch we saw a lot of people in a lot of gondolas; the gondoliers are a hoot: some had the traditional striped shirt on OVER their jackets; a few were using their cellphones while oaring their craft along; didn't see many of the hats but there were a couple who were also singing, often "Volare" from the 1950's!!!
Parts of Venice remind me of Hong Kong where about all you can do is eat and shop. The carnival masks are everywhere and in just about every possible shape and form; Murano (and not so Murano) glass which is hard to resist including some of the chandeliers and light fixtures; the beads and jewelry and even the stationery shops have beautiful goods. And there is plenty of foot traffic.
Today we may navigate by foot for a while. It would be nice to learn, "What news from the Rialto" if nothing else.
Have a wonderful day, everyone.
Last evening at dusk we went back over to San Marco as the lights were coming on. It was a bit more crowded than I had expected. Last summer when we were in Florence there were people selling these lighted parachute type "toys" which you launch into the air and watch them float to earth. The piazza in front of Santa Maria Novella was full of the things.
Apparently some of them have moved to Venice because they were all over the piazza last night trying to make a living. Add in a few folks selling those selfie phone/camera holders; the knock-off bag sellers were nowhere in evidence. Both Quadri and Florian seemed to have lots of patrons but most of them were inside due to the chill. The piano players in both orchestras were wearing down jackets.
And I feel it necessary to mention that despite a whole bunch of Fodorite "experts" telling people that the gondola rides are a rip-off and that doing so is akin to wearing a fanny pack, I suggest you shout louder.
Yesterday, during lunch we saw a lot of people in a lot of gondolas; the gondoliers are a hoot: some had the traditional striped shirt on OVER their jackets; a few were using their cellphones while oaring their craft along; didn't see many of the hats but there were a couple who were also singing, often "Volare" from the 1950's!!!
Parts of Venice remind me of Hong Kong where about all you can do is eat and shop. The carnival masks are everywhere and in just about every possible shape and form; Murano (and not so Murano) glass which is hard to resist including some of the chandeliers and light fixtures; the beads and jewelry and even the stationery shops have beautiful goods. And there is plenty of foot traffic.
Today we may navigate by foot for a while. It would be nice to learn, "What news from the Rialto" if nothing else.
Have a wonderful day, everyone.
Oct 30th, 2014, 02:39 AM
#45
and you, Dukey.
I am signed up to doing a week's italian course in Venice in February, in the middle of Carnevale - which I am now regarding with a mixture of expectation and trepidation. it certainly won't be quiet!
I am signed up to doing a week's italian course in Venice in February, in the middle of Carnevale - which I am now regarding with a mixture of expectation and trepidation. it certainly won't be quiet!
Oct 30th, 2014, 04:16 AM
#46
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I am a budget traveler but sometimes do splurge and love that you are able to do it. Getting the upgrade was an added bonus. I would do the gondola ride in a heartbeat. That is part of Venice. Surprised someone didn't tell you that you couldn't do three cities in one trip though. Enjoy Venice.
Oct 30th, 2014, 05:26 AM
#47
Original Poster
This morning we walked from the hotel over to the Gallerie dell'Accademia. As much as I like being near San Marco I think you need to actually get <B>away</B> from it to start enjoying what I suspect some would call the "real Venice."
You make your way through these narrow alleyways and across numerous small canal bridges; suddenly you find yourself in some much bigger "piazza" and/or confronted with yet another church which tempts you to enter (for free or otherwise). The possibilities seem endless.
On the way we stopped in and bought tickets for one of the apparently wildly popular Interpreti Veneziani (Vivaldi, amongst other composers) concerts in the Chiesa San Vidal, a former church which has been turned into a concert and events hall. Due to our (and mine in particular) "advanced age(s)" we got reduced ticket prices. The thing commences at 8:30 tonight.
The Accademia is apparently in (buildings) that were once some sort of school, and church and monastery; regardless, the interior of some of the rooms, particularly the inlaid and decorated floors as well as the coffered and elaborately decorated ceilings. The ceilings and walls are rather "wonky" in some of the rooms which isn't surprising somehow given we are in Venice.
The artwork, which I suppose many would classify as "religious" since the subject matter generally is such, is simply overwhelming and many of the Italian biggies including Bellini, Veronese, Tintoretto, Tupelo, Canaletto, and Longhi are represented.
From smaller drawings to particularly <B>massive</B> "with the benefit of the workshop" works one can get "museum overload" in this place very quickly. One thing I found particularly interesting was/is the somewhat I guess typical practice of including "contemporary" figures in with Christ, The Virgin, The Holy Family, etc. Saints and popes and other early Church figures appear in scenes that one might think occurred in the "holy land" except that when you look at the buildings in the background and the landscapes these are suspiciously Italian; you get the idea.
Seeing the Christ Child being cradled by the Virgin Mary as he slips as wedding ring onto the finger of St. Catherine of Siena as other well-known figures look on is always interesting. And Veronese has to be a man after my own heart since there always seems to be some loveable canine "in the picture" somewhere!
After a time we started to get numb and gave up. We had no trouble getting in as there weren't that many visitors but we went well before noon. There seems to be many groups around Venice; many young folks on what might be academically-sponsored tours.
We postponed a walk over to the Rialto and suspect we may do that tomorrow. I am sorry we were not able to see anything in La Fenice but you can't have everything I suppose.
You make your way through these narrow alleyways and across numerous small canal bridges; suddenly you find yourself in some much bigger "piazza" and/or confronted with yet another church which tempts you to enter (for free or otherwise). The possibilities seem endless.
On the way we stopped in and bought tickets for one of the apparently wildly popular Interpreti Veneziani (Vivaldi, amongst other composers) concerts in the Chiesa San Vidal, a former church which has been turned into a concert and events hall. Due to our (and mine in particular) "advanced age(s)" we got reduced ticket prices. The thing commences at 8:30 tonight.
The Accademia is apparently in (buildings) that were once some sort of school, and church and monastery; regardless, the interior of some of the rooms, particularly the inlaid and decorated floors as well as the coffered and elaborately decorated ceilings. The ceilings and walls are rather "wonky" in some of the rooms which isn't surprising somehow given we are in Venice.
The artwork, which I suppose many would classify as "religious" since the subject matter generally is such, is simply overwhelming and many of the Italian biggies including Bellini, Veronese, Tintoretto, Tupelo, Canaletto, and Longhi are represented.
From smaller drawings to particularly <B>massive</B> "with the benefit of the workshop" works one can get "museum overload" in this place very quickly. One thing I found particularly interesting was/is the somewhat I guess typical practice of including "contemporary" figures in with Christ, The Virgin, The Holy Family, etc. Saints and popes and other early Church figures appear in scenes that one might think occurred in the "holy land" except that when you look at the buildings in the background and the landscapes these are suspiciously Italian; you get the idea.
Seeing the Christ Child being cradled by the Virgin Mary as he slips as wedding ring onto the finger of St. Catherine of Siena as other well-known figures look on is always interesting. And Veronese has to be a man after my own heart since there always seems to be some loveable canine "in the picture" somewhere!
After a time we started to get numb and gave up. We had no trouble getting in as there weren't that many visitors but we went well before noon. There seems to be many groups around Venice; many young folks on what might be academically-sponsored tours.
We postponed a walk over to the Rialto and suspect we may do that tomorrow. I am sorry we were not able to see anything in La Fenice but you can't have everything I suppose.
Oct 30th, 2014, 07:37 AM
#49
Original Poster
update: walked over to the Rialto this afternoon after all. I used to think San Marco was "tourist central" but the Rialto was far more crowded and much of that may have been from the fact that a lot of people were getting onto and off of the vaporetti; plenty of people rolling and hauling luggage. Waiters watching expectantly near vacant tables; folks hanging out up and down the steps of the bridge. Not sure if there are any love locks in place; we saw a few on the Accademia bridge this morning.
Walked back via LaFenice but did not venture inside and apparently not guided tour time. Looked at possibilities for dinner this evening, preferably indoors.
Walked back via LaFenice but did not venture inside and apparently not guided tour time. Looked at possibilities for dinner this evening, preferably indoors.
Oct 30th, 2014, 12:46 PM
#50
I'm really enjoying this trip report. I think it is funny that the water taxi wanted an extra charge to go down the Grand Canal, while I think I would have paid extra for the back canal tour you got. And then you got the wonderful suite with the view of the Grand Canal to boot!
Sounds like a fun trip (even the day spent doing nothing in London sounds good to me).
Sounds like a fun trip (even the day spent doing nothing in London sounds good to me).
Oct 30th, 2014, 01:35 PM
#51
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Enjoying Venice a la Dukey! Your room is totally on our "bucket-list" and I'll be the one waving like crazy while my husband tries to stop me, lol. But we'll just be happy to get back to Venice in fewer than 14 years, like we had between our first two trips... Loved beautiful La Fenice; hope you get to tour it or see a performance.
Oct 30th, 2014, 09:38 PM
#52
Original Poster
Thanks, all, for the additional and very kind comments.
Last night, and since we couldn't see anything at LeFenice, we chose to join all the other folks who chose to attend what has been described as a "nightly, tourist-targeted Vivaldi concert" in the Chiesa San Vidal presented by the group Interpreti Veneziani.
These events are well-reported/reviewed on sites such as Trip Advisor and uniformly trashed by bloggers but being a musician of sorts helped make the decision to attend.
To say that these people are "virtuosi" would be an understatement and the 1.5 hour presentation including one encore was delightful. The venue is a deconsecrated church which retains a Carpaccio alterpiece, a wonderful veiled statue, other artworks, and has great acoustics.
The thing was sold out and overall this made for a nice pre-dinner activity.
We ate in a restaurant on the way back to the hotel: great vegetable soup; not so great grilled lambchops. You win some you lose some. This morning we will again have breakfast on the hotel's "terrace" which fronts on the Grand Canal as we decide how to spend our final day here.
We already have a bunch of masks on display at home and they are from various places we have visited as well as those which have been given to us. Yes they are EVERYWHERE here!!!! Do I want another one and can I get it home in one piece???
After not being in this city for more than 20 years I hate to leave empty-handed and in some ways I am also realizing that art and music-wise I am liking it even more than Rome and Florence. Must be all those dead animals that are not floating in the canals.
Last night, and since we couldn't see anything at LeFenice, we chose to join all the other folks who chose to attend what has been described as a "nightly, tourist-targeted Vivaldi concert" in the Chiesa San Vidal presented by the group Interpreti Veneziani.
These events are well-reported/reviewed on sites such as Trip Advisor and uniformly trashed by bloggers but being a musician of sorts helped make the decision to attend.
To say that these people are "virtuosi" would be an understatement and the 1.5 hour presentation including one encore was delightful. The venue is a deconsecrated church which retains a Carpaccio alterpiece, a wonderful veiled statue, other artworks, and has great acoustics.
The thing was sold out and overall this made for a nice pre-dinner activity.
We ate in a restaurant on the way back to the hotel: great vegetable soup; not so great grilled lambchops. You win some you lose some. This morning we will again have breakfast on the hotel's "terrace" which fronts on the Grand Canal as we decide how to spend our final day here.
We already have a bunch of masks on display at home and they are from various places we have visited as well as those which have been given to us. Yes they are EVERYWHERE here!!!! Do I want another one and can I get it home in one piece???
After not being in this city for more than 20 years I hate to leave empty-handed and in some ways I am also realizing that art and music-wise I am liking it even more than Rome and Florence. Must be all those dead animals that are not floating in the canals.
Oct 31st, 2014, 04:09 AM
#53
Original Poster
Partner woke up with a sore throat this morning so I made my way to a nearby farmacia and ended up with some medicated throat lozenges. I always carry general cold medicine (the Dayquil/Nyquil type stuff) and USED to carry lozenges but quit doing the latter so as luck would have it...
I was reminded about the "language issue" as I went about my errand. Had read yet another hotel review (of a place we'll be staying in Vienna when we return to Europe in a couple of weeks) from an American, of course, who made a big point of saying the "staff spoke perfect English."
I wish I spoke Italian and since I certainly do not speak the local Venetian dialect I was grateful the people in the farmacia understood me (across the calle from the Gucci store I suspect their various language skills are great).
But it reminded me of visitors to the US who may not speak "perfect English" and the difficulty they would almost undoubtedly have being understood.
A long-time poster here used to tell everybody how Engish is the "lingua franca" of European travel. I wonder how you say, "That is such smug bulls**t" in Italian?
I was reminded about the "language issue" as I went about my errand. Had read yet another hotel review (of a place we'll be staying in Vienna when we return to Europe in a couple of weeks) from an American, of course, who made a big point of saying the "staff spoke perfect English."
I wish I spoke Italian and since I certainly do not speak the local Venetian dialect I was grateful the people in the farmacia understood me (across the calle from the Gucci store I suspect their various language skills are great).
But it reminded me of visitors to the US who may not speak "perfect English" and the difficulty they would almost undoubtedly have being understood.
A long-time poster here used to tell everybody how Engish is the "lingua franca" of European travel. I wonder how you say, "That is such smug bulls**t" in Italian?
Oct 31st, 2014, 04:30 AM
#54
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I had an earache in Germany and it felt like water swishing so all I wanted was alcohol like swimmers ear. They don't sell. I had to do a little pantomime. They finally sold me the cutest little bottle of alcohol. I put in my ears in front of him. Did he think I was going to drink it? Just an old swimming trick I learned from ocean waves hitting me full on. Dries out all the fluid. I do love to go to the pharmacy. I love that every package has braille on it.
Oct 31st, 2014, 06:58 AM
#56
I also enjoyed one of those chamber music programs at San Vidal several years ago. They did Vivaldi flute and piccolo pieces, and I play the flute and piccolo. Those folks were terrific.
Dukey, what sort of musician are you?
Dukey, what sort of musician are you?
Oct 31st, 2014, 07:23 AM
#57
Original Poster
Nikki, when we moved to our current residence in Fort Lauderdale last November the one thing we had to wait for was our piano. We had entrusted it to a mover inn the Washington, DC, area who turned out to be somewhat of a flake.
Ten months later and via a rather complicated "route" which included a truly psycho dealer in the Fort Lauderdale area who took the delivery from the national piano mover and then called me and told me he didn't want it, wouldn't deliver it, etc. From there the instrument, a turn-of-the-century Pleyel built in Paris and which we bought second-hand from a friend who desperately needed money some years ago, was rescued by another local dealer, has been totally restored and was finally delivered.
I hope I answered your question, LOL!!!
I am typing this as I look out over the Grand Canal which, I notice, is Trip Advisor's Number 1 site/activity in Venice. I know having a canal view room is hardly necessary to enjoy the city but it has been nice. Having meals, especially breakfast, overlooking the activity and literally watching "the passing show" has made this more memorable.
There is a gondola dock next door to the hotel and one of the things they also do is run a kind of ferry service over to the other side for folks who don't feel like taking a regular "bus" from the Salute stop to the Giglio stop or walking up to the Accademia bridge.
The sore throat has apparently improved; we managed to browse a whole bunch of stores near San Marco without buying anything but I'd like too have bought the black Murano chandelier but not at Euro 32,000 (yeah, you read that right).
The sun is dropping down and tomorrow morning we fly home. I am not sure both of us will actually ever see Venice again so I am glad this trip was so special for the Husbear.
Warmest...
Ten months later and via a rather complicated "route" which included a truly psycho dealer in the Fort Lauderdale area who took the delivery from the national piano mover and then called me and told me he didn't want it, wouldn't deliver it, etc. From there the instrument, a turn-of-the-century Pleyel built in Paris and which we bought second-hand from a friend who desperately needed money some years ago, was rescued by another local dealer, has been totally restored and was finally delivered.
I hope I answered your question, LOL!!!
I am typing this as I look out over the Grand Canal which, I notice, is Trip Advisor's Number 1 site/activity in Venice. I know having a canal view room is hardly necessary to enjoy the city but it has been nice. Having meals, especially breakfast, overlooking the activity and literally watching "the passing show" has made this more memorable.
There is a gondola dock next door to the hotel and one of the things they also do is run a kind of ferry service over to the other side for folks who don't feel like taking a regular "bus" from the Salute stop to the Giglio stop or walking up to the Accademia bridge.
The sore throat has apparently improved; we managed to browse a whole bunch of stores near San Marco without buying anything but I'd like too have bought the black Murano chandelier but not at Euro 32,000 (yeah, you read that right).
The sun is dropping down and tomorrow morning we fly home. I am not sure both of us will actually ever see Venice again so I am glad this trip was so special for the Husbear.
Warmest...
Oct 31st, 2014, 02:27 PM
#58
Dukey - that gondola service is called a "traghetto" and costs about €1 - there are several that cross the Grand Canal and by convention, the passengers stand up. Personally, I would not be inclined to get in one without a life jacket!
I'm interested in what you say about the Interpreti Veneziani concert; I've never been to one of their concerts but i will now certainly consider it for my February trip. I was once in a concert in Venice - Vivaldi of course - but I doubt that we were as good as the players you saw.
sorry about your partner's cold - it's always more miserable being ill away from home.
I'm also sorry that so far my italian classes have not equipped me to translate the phrase you mention, but google suggests "Che è tale stronzata compiaciuta" - I am sure that there are others here who can attempt a better version.
I'm interested in what you say about the Interpreti Veneziani concert; I've never been to one of their concerts but i will now certainly consider it for my February trip. I was once in a concert in Venice - Vivaldi of course - but I doubt that we were as good as the players you saw.
sorry about your partner's cold - it's always more miserable being ill away from home.
I'm also sorry that so far my italian classes have not equipped me to translate the phrase you mention, but google suggests "Che è tale stronzata compiaciuta" - I am sure that there are others here who can attempt a better version.
Oct 31st, 2014, 06:45 PM
#59
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Hi DUKEY1,
Great report - loved the London part especially. Thanks for the inside view of the SAVOY. I have stayed across the way at the more plebeian STRAND PALACE and haven't had the courage to go across for a drink yet.
Glad you enjoyed the WALLACE COLLECTION again. I took a tour with a docent on my last visit which was really helpful. Also has a great gift shop and restaurant. I am not a shopper but reading these posts, I should have visited Liberty's. Definitely "next time" (if there is one).
Love the details. You wrote regarding the opera in Berlin:
"Perhaps it was the fact that it was Wagner, in Berlin, sung by two well-known German Wagnerians but at the end the entire audience was on its feet clapping wildly and carrying on, demanding curtain call after curtain call."
I know nothing of opera and have a rather deaf ear to music, but I love Tristam and Isolde "Liebestod" - does that come at the end of the opera? Very moving piece.
Enjoyed your beautiful description of San Marco:
"Waiters in white dinner jackets, children racing around, pigeons everywhere, and not a cloud in the sky. We will undoubtedly return this evening when many visitors have left because IMO just at dusk, the place is truly magic."
I will repeat a suggestion that I have made to other posters who visited Venice - watch the 1950s David Lean classic SUMMERTIME set in Venice starring Katherine Hepburn and Rossani Brassi - fabulous photography.
Thanks again, Dukey for a most colorful report...
Great report - loved the London part especially. Thanks for the inside view of the SAVOY. I have stayed across the way at the more plebeian STRAND PALACE and haven't had the courage to go across for a drink yet.
Glad you enjoyed the WALLACE COLLECTION again. I took a tour with a docent on my last visit which was really helpful. Also has a great gift shop and restaurant. I am not a shopper but reading these posts, I should have visited Liberty's. Definitely "next time" (if there is one).
Love the details. You wrote regarding the opera in Berlin:
"Perhaps it was the fact that it was Wagner, in Berlin, sung by two well-known German Wagnerians but at the end the entire audience was on its feet clapping wildly and carrying on, demanding curtain call after curtain call."
I know nothing of opera and have a rather deaf ear to music, but I love Tristam and Isolde "Liebestod" - does that come at the end of the opera? Very moving piece.
Enjoyed your beautiful description of San Marco:
"Waiters in white dinner jackets, children racing around, pigeons everywhere, and not a cloud in the sky. We will undoubtedly return this evening when many visitors have left because IMO just at dusk, the place is truly magic."
I will repeat a suggestion that I have made to other posters who visited Venice - watch the 1950s David Lean classic SUMMERTIME set in Venice starring Katherine Hepburn and Rossani Brassi - fabulous photography.
Thanks again, Dukey for a most colorful report...
Oct 31st, 2014, 06:58 PM
#60
Agree with annhig
I also would not like to stand up going across the Grand Canal.
Good Report , I have been following.
I also would not like to stand up going across the Grand Canal.
Good Report , I have been following.
