Enchanted April (What's that you say? "Crazy dear one, it was January.") Don’t fret, for it was oh so very Enchanted April in our minds. DH & Tiff’s Italian Journey
Feb 24th, 2006, 07:22 PM
#81
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Thanks thursdaysd and hello ~ We wore regular clothes with warm jackets, gloves and a scarf for me.
Layering is the key, along with a jacket this isn't too bulky but very warm. Stylish but very comfortable.
I had a range of three types of tops: turtlenecks, long sleeve, and a couple short sleeve shirts, and even in January if you can believe it I wore all three of the styles. Venice, where we thought it would be cooler, is when I wore the short sleeve tops.
Michael Starrs has shirts that I adore because they are warm without being bulky, you can find them at Nordstrom's, or online depending on where you live, and you can pack several without taking up a lot of room in your suitcase.
I think for winter travel a jacket that you really love is key. It must be warm and then if you get a lovely sunny day you can wear a lightweight top underneath. It is helpful if the jacket blocks wind.
As I have mentioned, we live in Minneapolis so we were prepared for cold weather. If you can believe it, my black faux fur I got from Anthropologie this year is warmer than any of my North Face down jackets, it is was bizarre. Plus, it was dressy enough that I felt stylish even with jeans. Additionally, I wore a warm scarf that I could tie up tight when needed.
I should stop now, ha. I could talk about the clothing FOREVER.
Let me know if you have any other questions, and go in that low season, doll. You will love it!
p.s. I should also add that many people do wear what I would call silkies (like cuddle-duds)under their slacks for added warmth. I think you will know if you need those or not based on where you live.
Layering is the key, along with a jacket this isn't too bulky but very warm. Stylish but very comfortable.
I had a range of three types of tops: turtlenecks, long sleeve, and a couple short sleeve shirts, and even in January if you can believe it I wore all three of the styles. Venice, where we thought it would be cooler, is when I wore the short sleeve tops.
Michael Starrs has shirts that I adore because they are warm without being bulky, you can find them at Nordstrom's, or online depending on where you live, and you can pack several without taking up a lot of room in your suitcase.
I think for winter travel a jacket that you really love is key. It must be warm and then if you get a lovely sunny day you can wear a lightweight top underneath. It is helpful if the jacket blocks wind.
As I have mentioned, we live in Minneapolis so we were prepared for cold weather. If you can believe it, my black faux fur I got from Anthropologie this year is warmer than any of my North Face down jackets, it is was bizarre. Plus, it was dressy enough that I felt stylish even with jeans. Additionally, I wore a warm scarf that I could tie up tight when needed.
I should stop now, ha. I could talk about the clothing FOREVER.
Let me know if you have any other questions, and go in that low season, doll. You will love it!
p.s. I should also add that many people do wear what I would call silkies (like cuddle-duds)under their slacks for added warmth. I think you will know if you need those or not based on where you live.
Feb 24th, 2006, 11:27 PM
#82
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Tiff -
What a great report!!!! As others have said, you should write for a living. I loved the line.."I just shake my head and smile with DH, again I can't believe we are here" I know that feeling so well! Maybe you can help ghostwrite my next trip report LOL
I am soooo happy that you and DH had a great time. How did DH like all the amor and swords up in the attic of the Doges Palace?
How did the Tri-X work out for you? Looking foward to the next installment.
Tom
What a great report!!!! As others have said, you should write for a living. I loved the line.."I just shake my head and smile with DH, again I can't believe we are here" I know that feeling so well! Maybe you can help ghostwrite my next trip report LOL
I am soooo happy that you and DH had a great time. How did DH like all the amor and swords up in the attic of the Doges Palace?
How did the Tri-X work out for you? Looking foward to the next installment.
Tom
Feb 25th, 2006, 03:45 AM
#84
Tiff - hello and thanks so much for the info! I grew up in England but I live in N.C. so I'm out of practice for cold weather! I usually travel light - maybe 25 lbs in a backpack, but for a week+ in one place I can go heavier. I'll check into the Michael Starr's shirts - I'll be in Northern Greece the beginning of April and I'm thinking that may be chilly - for trips I'm usually buying Coolmax tops from Travelsmith to stay cool!
Looking forward to more of your lovely Venice - especially food...
Looking forward to more of your lovely Venice - especially food...
Feb 25th, 2006, 06:40 AM
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Hi OWJ, my friend ~ Sorry that it is rainy and cold there, but pleased this brought you warmth. Big hug for you.
Hi thursdaysd ~ Actually, two of our favorites restaurants are coming up in the next installment, shhhhhhhhh! Stay tuned, ha.
Hello to you TRSW ~ I knew I'd see your face here soon, ha. I don't have my Tri-X black and white back yet. The color is back, but B&W won't be until 3/3. I'll keep you posted. DH loved the armor and swords at Doge, funny how all the men kind of perked up during that segment, lol. If I recall, it was towards the end right???
Happy Saturday everyone and thanks again!
Hi thursdaysd ~ Actually, two of our favorites restaurants are coming up in the next installment, shhhhhhhhh! Stay tuned, ha.
Hello to you TRSW ~ I knew I'd see your face here soon, ha. I don't have my Tri-X black and white back yet. The color is back, but B&W won't be until 3/3. I'll keep you posted. DH loved the armor and swords at Doge, funny how all the men kind of perked up during that segment, lol. If I recall, it was towards the end right???
Happy Saturday everyone and thanks again!
Feb 25th, 2006, 07:54 AM
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Hello again thursdaysd ~ I also wanted to mention that cashmere is another wonderful fabric that warms well without being bulky, and actually during this time of year you can find many on sale.
Ok, that is all, I will go back to my report like a good little girl.
Ok, that is all, I will go back to my report like a good little girl.
Feb 25th, 2006, 09:09 AM
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Today we are still blessed with a large abundance of sunshine.
On our way, we wander by a little shop, it is on a corner down a small calle, there is a little dish in the window that stops me dead in my tracks. Now I have yet to speak of shopping. At this point, we have purchased a few special pieces of original art, but little else. We really have no desire to be inside ANYWHERE until I see my little dish. It is made of fine Vetro Artistico Murano glass. It has a matte finish, which I ADORE. The brilliant blue it possesses reminds me of the lagoon and the little, delicate flowers are happily smiling up at me saying, “Tiff, I must leave my blessed homeland and travel back to chilly Minneapolis with you, for it is my destiny!”
Alas, the little shop is closed, and the little dish must remain without it’s possible new owner. Anyway, I have this curse that if I like it, it is probably four million Euros.
The morning is spent at the Rialto Market. We are happily overwhelmed with the colors. The shiny reds of the peppercinis against the brown wood baskets. Stunning oranges. The greens, the yellows. The scene before us is a photographer’s dream. Even the wide spectrum of grays on the fish are unlike we have ever seen. It is such fun. This is the way it has been for centuries, this is the Rialto Fish Market, unchanged, why mess with perfection?
We decide in the midday sun to take the vaporetto over to the islands. We figure out with the assistance of Francesco which vaporetto to take, and once we are at our stop and viewing the signage, it is not as difficult as I had imagined. As we stand on the platform, we think of our dear Statia.
The plan is Murano, Burano and Torcello. It is breathtaking drifting across the lagoon. When we arrive at Murano, there are a few that join us, but they disperse rapidly. We find ourselves strolling independently as there is no one around us. Many businesses are closed but that is fine with us. We are just here for the experience. We really have no desire to take a glass factory tour and decide it is ok not to. Onward we travel, now to Burano.
Upon arrival, it is completely, completely deserted and feels very surreal. Now we really feel as if we went through a time warp because as we are the only ones here, it is a very unique experience. The colors of the homes are vibrant and remind us somewhat of the Victorians in San Francisco. Dependable Mother Nature is busy at work bleaching someone’s wash that is hanging nearby. We just never tire of the wandering and all the colors of Burano make our camera jump with joy.
Acknowledging our hunger, we take a chance at Al Raspo De Ua (Via Galuppi, 560 – phone 041 730095) If I could just have one slice of that pizza right now, just one little slice… DH’s Mussels Soup is so fantastic, he wants me to take a picture of it, LOL, and I do. It was presented in this huge terra cotta pottery bowl and is most definitely picture worthy. This little spot is among our top three dining experiences for this portion of the journey. As we are in the middle of our meal they are setting up for a large party. Three long tables with wine and bread, they bring out as much as they can prior to their guests arrival. We speculate as to who will join us, possibly hungry workers stopping for much needed refueling. Maybe an Italian family joyfully celebrating a special birthday. Only this once do our imaginations go unfulfilled, it is nothing quite that exciting, only a tour group, LOL.
We stroll and stroll on this small island, and by now the sun is in the beginning stages of it’s descent. It is getting more chilly and for the first time we are now starting to feel tired. We decide that possibly we should not proceed to Torcello and even though I am sad, I think it a good decision. I think of SusanEva & Eloise because I would have really liked to have seen Torcello and all the mosaics. SusanEva’s description was so beautiful. But this is all this day will allow and we travel back to Venice.
It is a relaxing, light dinner at Alla Madonna by the Rialto Bridge that warms us this evening. It is well known here in Fodorville and we agree that it is quite good.
This time as we crawl home, we try with all our might to find the little shop that is the current residence of my little dish. What the anticipation of my little Sophi,e as I am about to give her a treat, I wait and wait. DH is a love and although we are tired we purposely go out of our way because we think this route is the best chance of bumping into it yet again.
Glorious of glories, there it is, my little dish still there smiling at me. But the shop owner is gone again, and with the late hour this is the expected result. But at least we have found her! This time strong, definitive, mental notes are taken of our location, for tomorrow, our last full (gulp) day, we will be back.
We end the evening playing cards and DH beats me in Gin for the millionth time. Why I continue the suffering I will never know. Perhaps it is that one time to his ten, that I do slap those cards down in victorious triumph, that sustain me. Most likey it is that I just love to hear him laugh.
Next installment:
The Little Tavern That Could… And The Clock That Sped Away
On our way, we wander by a little shop, it is on a corner down a small calle, there is a little dish in the window that stops me dead in my tracks. Now I have yet to speak of shopping. At this point, we have purchased a few special pieces of original art, but little else. We really have no desire to be inside ANYWHERE until I see my little dish. It is made of fine Vetro Artistico Murano glass. It has a matte finish, which I ADORE. The brilliant blue it possesses reminds me of the lagoon and the little, delicate flowers are happily smiling up at me saying, “Tiff, I must leave my blessed homeland and travel back to chilly Minneapolis with you, for it is my destiny!”
Alas, the little shop is closed, and the little dish must remain without it’s possible new owner. Anyway, I have this curse that if I like it, it is probably four million Euros.
The morning is spent at the Rialto Market. We are happily overwhelmed with the colors. The shiny reds of the peppercinis against the brown wood baskets. Stunning oranges. The greens, the yellows. The scene before us is a photographer’s dream. Even the wide spectrum of grays on the fish are unlike we have ever seen. It is such fun. This is the way it has been for centuries, this is the Rialto Fish Market, unchanged, why mess with perfection?
We decide in the midday sun to take the vaporetto over to the islands. We figure out with the assistance of Francesco which vaporetto to take, and once we are at our stop and viewing the signage, it is not as difficult as I had imagined. As we stand on the platform, we think of our dear Statia.
The plan is Murano, Burano and Torcello. It is breathtaking drifting across the lagoon. When we arrive at Murano, there are a few that join us, but they disperse rapidly. We find ourselves strolling independently as there is no one around us. Many businesses are closed but that is fine with us. We are just here for the experience. We really have no desire to take a glass factory tour and decide it is ok not to. Onward we travel, now to Burano.
Upon arrival, it is completely, completely deserted and feels very surreal. Now we really feel as if we went through a time warp because as we are the only ones here, it is a very unique experience. The colors of the homes are vibrant and remind us somewhat of the Victorians in San Francisco. Dependable Mother Nature is busy at work bleaching someone’s wash that is hanging nearby. We just never tire of the wandering and all the colors of Burano make our camera jump with joy.
Acknowledging our hunger, we take a chance at Al Raspo De Ua (Via Galuppi, 560 – phone 041 730095) If I could just have one slice of that pizza right now, just one little slice… DH’s Mussels Soup is so fantastic, he wants me to take a picture of it, LOL, and I do. It was presented in this huge terra cotta pottery bowl and is most definitely picture worthy. This little spot is among our top three dining experiences for this portion of the journey. As we are in the middle of our meal they are setting up for a large party. Three long tables with wine and bread, they bring out as much as they can prior to their guests arrival. We speculate as to who will join us, possibly hungry workers stopping for much needed refueling. Maybe an Italian family joyfully celebrating a special birthday. Only this once do our imaginations go unfulfilled, it is nothing quite that exciting, only a tour group, LOL.
We stroll and stroll on this small island, and by now the sun is in the beginning stages of it’s descent. It is getting more chilly and for the first time we are now starting to feel tired. We decide that possibly we should not proceed to Torcello and even though I am sad, I think it a good decision. I think of SusanEva & Eloise because I would have really liked to have seen Torcello and all the mosaics. SusanEva’s description was so beautiful. But this is all this day will allow and we travel back to Venice.
It is a relaxing, light dinner at Alla Madonna by the Rialto Bridge that warms us this evening. It is well known here in Fodorville and we agree that it is quite good.
This time as we crawl home, we try with all our might to find the little shop that is the current residence of my little dish. What the anticipation of my little Sophi,e as I am about to give her a treat, I wait and wait. DH is a love and although we are tired we purposely go out of our way because we think this route is the best chance of bumping into it yet again.
Glorious of glories, there it is, my little dish still there smiling at me. But the shop owner is gone again, and with the late hour this is the expected result. But at least we have found her! This time strong, definitive, mental notes are taken of our location, for tomorrow, our last full (gulp) day, we will be back.
We end the evening playing cards and DH beats me in Gin for the millionth time. Why I continue the suffering I will never know. Perhaps it is that one time to his ten, that I do slap those cards down in victorious triumph, that sustain me. Most likey it is that I just love to hear him laugh.
Next installment:
The Little Tavern That Could… And The Clock That Sped Away
Feb 25th, 2006, 09:45 AM
#91
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Tiff, I'm loving your report and look forward ever so to the next installment. I do hope you managed to buy that dish. It sounds very much like one I bought in Venice years ago: matte, background deep turquoise, totally covered in tiny white flowers. Every time I look at it, it reminds me of happy days in Venice.
I'm sorry you missed Torcello, but it gives you a reason (as if you needed one...) to go back.
I'm sorry you missed Torcello, but it gives you a reason (as if you needed one...) to go back.
Feb 25th, 2006, 07:34 PM
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Oh Tiff, just finished getting all my income figures together for my accountant (2005 tax filing of course) and actually had a bit of a stiff neck.
Poured myself a glass of wine and read the next installment of your report. Stiff neck went ciao ciao. I mentally travelled with you, and I too hope you were able to buy the precious Venitian bowl..ah the suspense of that. And how wonderful to see TRSW(Tom) here on this thread..hi Tom!
All the fellows seem to love the armour and swords, my DH did. Too precious.
So look forward to your next installment dear Tiff. Except I know your report will soon end..could you and your DH plan another trip to Italy ASAP so we will have some more beautiful writing to read? Hugs!
Poured myself a glass of wine and read the next installment of your report. Stiff neck went ciao ciao. I mentally travelled with you, and I too hope you were able to buy the precious Venitian bowl..ah the suspense of that. And how wonderful to see TRSW(Tom) here on this thread..hi Tom!
All the fellows seem to love the armour and swords, my DH did. Too precious.
So look forward to your next installment dear Tiff. Except I know your report will soon end..could you and your DH plan another trip to Italy ASAP so we will have some more beautiful writing to read? Hugs!
Feb 25th, 2006, 07:53 PM
#93
Oh loveitaly, I know how tiff feels, I wanted a vase that I'm sure none of you would like, a giant snail shell that had three or four small snails crawling on it. but, alas, too expensive and also consoled myself because it would not fit into my carryon and too fragile for checkin, the way they toss those bags around.
Nighty night to all you nice fodorites.
Nighty night to all you nice fodorites.
Feb 25th, 2006, 08:16 PM
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Hello Mimi dear, guess what? An aunt of mine (raised in Australia) had a vase shaped like a snail with baby snails on it. I always loved that vase from the time I was a little girl. But I didn't receive it when she passed on..no doubt my cousin got rid of it as I never saw it again.
I know the feeling of wanting to buy something so bad and not being able to, the memory of the item stays with you forever.
I know the feeling of wanting to buy something so bad and not being able to, the memory of the item stays with you forever.
Feb 25th, 2006, 08:48 PM
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Tiff, the only problem with a trip report like this- is the need you will have to go out and take another trip, so we can all read about that one too!
You really know how to write a charming story and make us all wish we were there too~
You really know how to write a charming story and make us all wish we were there too~
Feb 26th, 2006, 07:33 AM
#96
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Scarlett ~ I am more than willing to get those bags packed STAT, hee. Thanks again, you are sweet.
Oh Mimi ~ I am sorry you couldn't get your snail shell vase. Maybe someday you will see something similar and closer to home!
LoveItaly ~ Anytime I can make a sore neck (or taxes) go far, far away it pleases me, thank you sweetheart.
Eloise ~ Ahhh, yes, there is always next time. Only during that journey we will go to Torcello first! Thanks for your kind words, I am so glad you are enjoying it. I am also pleased you got your little dish and it brings back happy memories.
Oh Mimi ~ I am sorry you couldn't get your snail shell vase. Maybe someday you will see something similar and closer to home!
LoveItaly ~ Anytime I can make a sore neck (or taxes) go far, far away it pleases me, thank you sweetheart.
Eloise ~ Ahhh, yes, there is always next time. Only during that journey we will go to Torcello first! Thanks for your kind words, I am so glad you are enjoying it. I am also pleased you got your little dish and it brings back happy memories.
Feb 26th, 2006, 09:00 AM
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tagging for reading later...I started reading but I am in a hurry and this deserves my full attention!
Tiff, my mind is all made up to go to Switzerland this summer and now you start making my mouth water for Italy...btw, I bet you talk to paintings and sculptures out loud...as I do.
Tiff, my mind is all made up to go to Switzerland this summer and now you start making my mouth water for Italy...btw, I bet you talk to paintings and sculptures out loud...as I do.
Feb 26th, 2006, 11:51 AM
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The little shop (Robe de Vero, San Marco, 4852 – 30124, phone 041 5204275) is completely in the opposite direction of where we are headed this morning but that does not stop us. We find it again without trouble. This time, a delightful Italian woman is smiling at me from behind the glass and there, on her spotless shelf, my little dish awaits patiently.
She speaks little English but understands what I desire. As I beam, she beams with pride and places the tiny dish in my hands. We discover that the amount of Euros needed are within our range of comfort and the transaction begins. She wraps it beautifully and it is carefully tucked away in a lovely royal blue bag with a shiny gold embossed sticker from beneath her counter. I love this entire process as much as I love the little dish.
I pretend to have grace and most of the time I can pull it off, but in truth I am the most clumsy person I know, lol, so DH and I think it best to stop at our Locanda, leaving the package there to wait for us for fear if we do not, it (or I with it) will end up in the Grand Canal.
Afterwards, we sit for a spell at an outdoor café in St. Mark’s Square enjoying coffee, hot tea, our newspaper and the scene before us. In winter, at an outdoor café, we know we are the privileged guests Mr. Sunshine. We have been blessed with it’s warmth during these cool days.
We stroll in the direction of water to take the traghetti across the Grand Canal to the Guggenheim. Slow down day, please slow down, you are going too fast. Who’s turn was it DH, to stop the clock, yours or mine?
The former residence of Peggy Guggenheim, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, is a treasure and a wonderful collection of modern art. It is very nice in size, and you feel that you have ample time to explore both the interior and the gardens at ease. The views from the terrace off the Grand Canal are spectacular. We really enjoyed this gallery, and if you like modern art, do not miss it.
Our lunch was the most pleasant of surprises and absolutely scrumptious. Tavernetta San Maurizio (San Marco 2619 – phone 041 5285240) was the luckiest find of Venice, cucina speaking, that is – DH found this one, it was a “passerby-need to eat now moment”. What a true gift. I almost lost the business card for this one during the trip home, it was tucked into another receipt and when I spotted it and was so thrilled. I would not have remembered the name or it’s location because we were in ‘wander mode’, it would have saddened me greatly not to be able to tell you of this wonderful spot. The “Vegetable Risotto for Two” was the best we had in Italy, and the best I have had anywhere, I don’t know that I will ever have it’s equal. I could have died right then and there with a smile on my face. And the bread, oh the bread… they served a couple different kinds, make sure you try the Italian bread with the chewy crust. We created our favorite simple concoction for dipping (just your basic olive oil, fresh parmesan and finely ground black pepper mixture) Good God in heaven. I can say no more. (This precious little tavern gets our vote for Number One, of our top three favorite dining spots, for this portion of our journey.)
Our adventure next leads us to a hall honoring Vivaldi. Excited because we knew of it, and also because we are great admirers, we decide to enter. Admission is free of charge however there is a box for voluntary donations. His tomb is adorned with two beautiful angels and musical instruments. It is a very nice memorial. Very peaceful with his music playing in the background.
We reluctantly decide it is best now to go back to our room and get things ready for our early morning departure. Clothes are packed. Tipping envelopes with notes of thanks and euros are stuffed. Last pictures are taken from my favorite window. We feel happy but sad all at the same time.
Our last dinner tonight will be at Ristorante Masaniello (Campo San Stefano, 2801 – phone 041 5209003 website: www.venicemasaniello.it ) It is a very relaxing atmostphere. My Fusilli Primavera was outstanding and DH’s Baby Octopus Stew was delicious. (Among the top three of our favorites.) Acqua Pazza (it’s sister restaurant) was closed during the time we were there for holiday.
We say our good-byes to our gracious hosts at Locanda Orseolo, for we know they will not be there when we depart at 4:45 the next morning. I have tears in my eyes and we feel as though we are saying good-bye to family members rather than the owners of a locanda.
The next morning we wake, and our water taxi is perfectly on time. We crawl through the little water taxi door once more, only this time our euphoric smiles are nowhere to be found.
DH gives me a hug as we sit on the heated inside of our taxi. It is beautiful and serene. We are as quiet as the darkness outside as we float through the little canals until they give way to wider waters.
As we board the KLM cityhopper, I think of our LoveItaly for I know that she has been here before me. It is still very dark, the new day will soon bring a flurry of new visitors to bella Venezia.
I don’t know, could one say exactly what was their favorite? The small, cobblestone path of a walled medieval village, children chasing after pigeons, church bells greeting you as you wake from peaceful slumber, seeing your DH smile, visiting with David, enjoying the people of a country with so much respect for those that walked before them, every footbridge you cross or being able to share and relive it with friends on a travel website…
Italy is so very full of ambience and charm. Enchanted April in any month. It embraces you from the moment you arrive and you are forever grateful you had the opportunity to stay, if only for a while.
She speaks little English but understands what I desire. As I beam, she beams with pride and places the tiny dish in my hands. We discover that the amount of Euros needed are within our range of comfort and the transaction begins. She wraps it beautifully and it is carefully tucked away in a lovely royal blue bag with a shiny gold embossed sticker from beneath her counter. I love this entire process as much as I love the little dish.
I pretend to have grace and most of the time I can pull it off, but in truth I am the most clumsy person I know, lol, so DH and I think it best to stop at our Locanda, leaving the package there to wait for us for fear if we do not, it (or I with it) will end up in the Grand Canal.
Afterwards, we sit for a spell at an outdoor café in St. Mark’s Square enjoying coffee, hot tea, our newspaper and the scene before us. In winter, at an outdoor café, we know we are the privileged guests Mr. Sunshine. We have been blessed with it’s warmth during these cool days.
We stroll in the direction of water to take the traghetti across the Grand Canal to the Guggenheim. Slow down day, please slow down, you are going too fast. Who’s turn was it DH, to stop the clock, yours or mine?
The former residence of Peggy Guggenheim, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, is a treasure and a wonderful collection of modern art. It is very nice in size, and you feel that you have ample time to explore both the interior and the gardens at ease. The views from the terrace off the Grand Canal are spectacular. We really enjoyed this gallery, and if you like modern art, do not miss it.
Our lunch was the most pleasant of surprises and absolutely scrumptious. Tavernetta San Maurizio (San Marco 2619 – phone 041 5285240) was the luckiest find of Venice, cucina speaking, that is – DH found this one, it was a “passerby-need to eat now moment”. What a true gift. I almost lost the business card for this one during the trip home, it was tucked into another receipt and when I spotted it and was so thrilled. I would not have remembered the name or it’s location because we were in ‘wander mode’, it would have saddened me greatly not to be able to tell you of this wonderful spot. The “Vegetable Risotto for Two” was the best we had in Italy, and the best I have had anywhere, I don’t know that I will ever have it’s equal. I could have died right then and there with a smile on my face. And the bread, oh the bread… they served a couple different kinds, make sure you try the Italian bread with the chewy crust. We created our favorite simple concoction for dipping (just your basic olive oil, fresh parmesan and finely ground black pepper mixture) Good God in heaven. I can say no more. (This precious little tavern gets our vote for Number One, of our top three favorite dining spots, for this portion of our journey.)
Our adventure next leads us to a hall honoring Vivaldi. Excited because we knew of it, and also because we are great admirers, we decide to enter. Admission is free of charge however there is a box for voluntary donations. His tomb is adorned with two beautiful angels and musical instruments. It is a very nice memorial. Very peaceful with his music playing in the background.
We reluctantly decide it is best now to go back to our room and get things ready for our early morning departure. Clothes are packed. Tipping envelopes with notes of thanks and euros are stuffed. Last pictures are taken from my favorite window. We feel happy but sad all at the same time.
Our last dinner tonight will be at Ristorante Masaniello (Campo San Stefano, 2801 – phone 041 5209003 website: www.venicemasaniello.it ) It is a very relaxing atmostphere. My Fusilli Primavera was outstanding and DH’s Baby Octopus Stew was delicious. (Among the top three of our favorites.) Acqua Pazza (it’s sister restaurant) was closed during the time we were there for holiday.
We say our good-byes to our gracious hosts at Locanda Orseolo, for we know they will not be there when we depart at 4:45 the next morning. I have tears in my eyes and we feel as though we are saying good-bye to family members rather than the owners of a locanda.
The next morning we wake, and our water taxi is perfectly on time. We crawl through the little water taxi door once more, only this time our euphoric smiles are nowhere to be found.
DH gives me a hug as we sit on the heated inside of our taxi. It is beautiful and serene. We are as quiet as the darkness outside as we float through the little canals until they give way to wider waters.
As we board the KLM cityhopper, I think of our LoveItaly for I know that she has been here before me. It is still very dark, the new day will soon bring a flurry of new visitors to bella Venezia.
I don’t know, could one say exactly what was their favorite? The small, cobblestone path of a walled medieval village, children chasing after pigeons, church bells greeting you as you wake from peaceful slumber, seeing your DH smile, visiting with David, enjoying the people of a country with so much respect for those that walked before them, every footbridge you cross or being able to share and relive it with friends on a travel website…
Italy is so very full of ambience and charm. Enchanted April in any month. It embraces you from the moment you arrive and you are forever grateful you had the opportunity to stay, if only for a while.
