lsaldanha

We will be in Hungary in October and after three days in Budapest we plan to drive North East to the Eger and Tokaj area. Then we plan to hit Pecs. Is there an interesting route to get from Tokaj to Pecs with one overnight stop--I read somewhere that it is best to come back to Budapest and then head South? What is the approx driving distance distance/time from Tokaj to Pecsand any interesting overnight stop village/small town mid way with budget accommodation--b&b preferred.

Thanks

lsaldanha

joegri

Isaldanha: Michilin suggests that going to Budapest and then on to Pecs is the best way to get there. It will take five hours and forty-three minutes. You could go a little south of the road to Budapest and take T1/4 which would take you through Kecskemet which has some points of interest, the beautiful main square, the Art Nouveu palace and town hall, the open market. Kecskemet is the fruit and vegetable basket of Hungary, although, in October, I don't know if there will be much produce available. If you take this route, be sure to sample "hazi palinka", the wonderful apricot brandy I grew up on. At Kecskemet, you are very close to the Hungarian Plains and could take in a horse show or riding exhibition. Hungarian "cowboys" are famous for their riding ability.
Kecskemet is also a very cultural city. It was the home of Zoltan Kodaly, a famous Hungarian Composer. There are concerts year round.
With a night to spend, this is the route I would take. Not many tourists get to Kecskemet since it is out of the way for most.
While at Tokaj, be sure to do a wine tasting. Go to the main square and you will see the signs. They take you down into the caves. You will have a private tasting with your own guide and you will sample about seven wines, dry to dessert (the famous Tokaji Aszu), some of which are outstanding. Wines in Hungary have improved markedly since the Communists got out of control.
Another great wine area just south of Pecs is Villany where the reds rival the best in the World.
Have a great trip.

Michael

For Eger and the Tokaj region, you might want to look up Clifton's and my report on travels in that area. I strongly recommend Kecskemet as a stop (information in my report). I would think that if you were already in Budapest, that it would be more interesting to try to drive down in the puszta (sp?) than to back track. But it's a question of taste.

lsaldanha

Thank You Joegri and Michael. I have Kecskemet (and hazi palinka included in our itinerary now.

Michael, just finished reading Clifton and your reports. Romania is next on our list of 'things to do' so it was a catalyst for that. One more question; you mentioned the Shell Maps, but as bit inadequate. What driving map do you recommend for Hungary. The local book store did not have any, so I will either have to get it online or buy it in Budapest?

Thanks

Michael

I suspect that you will need to look for maps in Budapest, especially if you plan to use local roads. I think that Clifton was happy with his maps, although he might not have even tried some of the local roads we took.

Clifton

As Michael said, we got along pretty well with the map we had. Always hard to say if it may have missed a road or two, but it served well for the ones we looked for.

It was the Michelin 732 National Hungary map at 1:400,000

lsaldanha

So, we are back, and the least I can do is post a trip report and hope others find something in it as useful as I found postings in this group (Sorry about the bit about Frommers' Guide--our local library did not have a Fodor's Hungary Guide

Hungary Trip Report (October 5th 2005 to Oct 16th 2005)

Thanks to this message board, and armed with the Frommer¡¦s ¡§Budapest and Best of Hungary¡¨ guide and some (if somewhat biased ƒº) literature from the Hungarian Tourist Board, we just returned from a fascinating and relaxed two week trip to Budapest and a road trip around Hungary. We arrived October 5th night and took the Airport Shuttle (very efficient and convenient, but have to pay cash and we were glad we had got some Florints at an exorbitant two-tiered exchange rate in London, since the Exchange Counter at the Airport was closed by the time we got in). I had booked us in at the Gellert after much web surfing and reading reports on the Gellert that covered the whole range from horrible to just wonderful. We normally do not stay in hotels, and are pension/b&b fans in Europe but this was our 25th wedding anniversary which we wanted to spend on the Danube and since the Danube is cheaper in Hungary than Austria on Germany, we decided to do this bit of splurge by our standards. So what do I think of the Gellert? As history buffs, we had to do this once and it was everything I expected it to be (of course my expectations had been watered down based on much I had read on the internet). I had done my booking on the internet and then spoken to them on the phone and got a refurbished room on the 3rd floor, with a balcony, facing the Danube where you could watch the sun rise over the Danube every morning. Gellert, including its bath is an institution and experience. I am glad we stayed there but will probably not indulge a 2nd time. Their breakfast, that is included in the price of Euro 184/night that we paid for the room is sumptious contrary to some reports I had read in cyberspace.

We were in Budapest for two full days and spend the first days in the Buda side walking Gellert Hill and Castle Hill a must see. After a rest and soak in the thermal baths back at the hotel, we hit the Pest side for dinner¡Xeverything is walking distance around here if you like walking or the public transport is cheap and efficient expect that for the buses and trams you have to pick up tickets in advance (we got a book of 10) at any newspaper stall. The next morning, we indulged in our planned thermal bath and massage sessions¡Xthe famous Gellert Baths are open to non hotel residents too, so it does get crowded but in the morning you almost have it to yourself. After breakfast, we walked some length of the Pest side of the Danube to Deak Ter (a tourist center of Budapest) just enjoying the architecture and ambience and then took a tram to Margaret Island. Came back and after a much earned rest in the afternoon, we did the Operetta Ship at night. It was good even if a bit touristy¡Xthis is a 2 hour dinner cruise on the Danube with continuous entertainment by members of the Hungarian National Opera.

Next morning we had a car booked through Advantage-Rent-A-Car in US booked online but service provided by Fox-Rent-Car in Budapest. They will deliver and pickup the car, excellent flawless service at the best price I could find online and way cheaper than the big names. We left for Eger in the North East, driving part of the way on the toll way (we picked up the 10 day toll way pass from a gas station) and then using internal routes that were a lot more interesting especially once you get to the wine country. We were in Eger by late afternoon and stayed at the Atrium Apartments which I had found online. Very nice and had closed indoor parking; Mr. Zoltan the owner was very helpful and spoke excellent English (more on language later). More importantly, this place is centralized to be walking distance from both the historical downtown and the Valley of the Beautiful Woman wine cellars, if you don¡¦t mind the steep climb back up from the valley after generous wine tasting at about 50 cents a glass. We garaged the car at the Atrium apartments and set out on foot to explore the down town and castle area. Since it was Saturday, lots of local out too. After hiking up to the castle, we hiked back on down to the Valley on the other side of town where wine cellars line the main road and side lanes. This is not Napa Valley or Provence kind of wine country. This is rustic wine cellar and being Saturday rather rambunctious, but all in good fun. In the barn, they were actually crushing grapes with hand driven presses. Great experience. Next morning being Sunday, we headed back to the old town and watched a lazy Sunday morning awakening of the town and then caught the 12 noon Organ performance at the local church.

Our plan was to head on to Tokay, but at the last minute we decided that if we headed further North East we would have less time for the plains and the South, so we decided to head South East instead and drove to Hajduszoboszlo (the famous thermal baths for rheumatism) just outside Debrecen. Now we were hitting the plains (Pustza), and the scene changed to a more rural one with horse drawn carts etc. Checked into a hotel across from the bath and checked out the scene at the baths. Since it was late evening we decided to save the bath for next morning and headed to do a quick trip round Debrecen. Next morning, bright and early, we hit the baths and spend a relaxing hour going from pool to pool all of different natural temperatures and composition.

After a hearty breakfast we set off South West towards Kecskemet (thanks to a suggestion in this forum)¡Xwe are now in the Tissa River country and fish is the food of choice and it is excellent. Kecskement is a one of its kind city. To make a long story short, we parked in the center and asked a guy if it was OK to park there while we went to the tourist office and he said it was fine. We got to the Tourist Office which is in a spectacular square and got the walking tour map and was so raptured by the churches and city hall around the square, we forgot about the car parking. Three hours later, and after our first taste of barrack palinka (apricot brandy), and seeing the unique architecture of the place (the city hall has bells that play a Beethoven or Mozart etc. piece every hour) we got back and found a ticket on our windshield but decided it was well worth the $10 fine (we were told we could pay this at any post office, but since it was a rental car and we had 8 days to pay it, we decided to give it along with the 10 dollars to Fox Rental and they said they would take care of it).

We spent the night at Csongrad (recommended by Hungarian Tourism as a fishing village, but was nothing to write home about) and then headed South to Szeged the next day. Enroute, we stopped at Opusztaszeri which was mentioned in the Hungarian Tourism literature as having a National Park with a ¡§Feszty Panorama¡¨ with enough history of itself let alone Hungary itself. We though we would spend an hour or so there, but the whole Park is great we ended up spending several hours and getting a good insight into Hungarian history. A must if you are a history buff like us. On to Szeged where the paprika fish (with carp and cat fish from the Tissa River) lived up to expectations. This is a charming University town with a historical synagogue¡Xthis was a Conservative (as against Orthodox as we understood it amidst language barriers) Jewish synagogue, so for the first time in our life we entered a synagogue and learnt much from an enthusiastic curator. The fact that these are areas that survived the holocaust hits you about here and opens a new dimension in your vacation.

From Szeged on to Pecs for a day (as interesting as expected) and Balaton for a day (nice relaxing area, but the season was obviously over and thing were closing down¡XTihany Village was the only place still bubbling a bit) and back to Budapest, where we returned the car and had half a day left of Saturday before our early morning Sunday flight. This time we stayed on the Pest side and went back to Deak Ter. Being Saturday, this was a different Budapest; from the English and German we could hear all around us, especially in the cafes, the weekend tourists from England, Austria etc. were in town. We went to St. Stephen¡¦s cathedral where we were lucky to catch a wedding and hence hear the Organs, then walked the length of fashionable Andrassy Street (where every building and not just the spectacular Opera House looked like a monument) to Hero¡¦s square. Then headed back to the Jewish District and did a walk around it. The Synagogue was closed (Saturday) so we only got to see it from outside, but again knowing what happened here in the 2nd world war, and seeing a piece of the ghetto wall that is displayed outside had my hair stand on ends. Had a quiet dinner in a neighborhood Csarda (restaurants)¡Xexcellent Goulash.

Next morning the airport shuttle picked us up on the dot and got us back to the airport for our flight.

Reflections:
---------------

The Country and People:

This was our first real venture into an East European country and that too one that is obviously making a transition from communism to capitalism. We talked to several locals who had mixed feeling about this transition and now the EU. The country¡¦s history is so rich and turbulent, it leaves on in awe. They have been the gate keepers of Western Europe and it is obvious there.

We learnt that the original people are of Mongolian origin, as is obvious from their looks in the puzta, now mixed over the years of history of conquest from all sides. They are mostly very friendly except some in service like at the Baths, who don¡¦t smile until you tip them ƒ¼ but that is true of many places now.

The Language

Before we left, I got a phrase book and tape from our local library, and knew this was going to be a challenge. And it was, more so outside Budapest. But it was fun making ourselves understood. They so much want to help you and will try¡Xmy husband and I can understand French and handle so German but that is no big help in the Puzta. In the cities German is the 2nd language of choice. But armed with the phrase book, we managed OK.

The Food

We are sea food eaters and spice food eaters so between the river fish and paprika, we were in ¡¥sea food lover¡¦s heaven¡¦. Food is very cheap as compared to Western Europe. The wines, both in the Eger area and in the South and Balaton area were good meal accompaniments. Now the pastries; I am not a normal sweet eater but their pastries (which are not over sweet) and really Viennese style pastries are out of this world and there is nothing more relaxing than popping into a Kave (Coffee) House which is all over the place in the city and in the rural areas and having a coffee and pastry which you can then work off walking. As for the palinka, couple of bottles of barrack palinka came back with us and we are saving it for the colder winter evenings.

The Baths

The baths are an experience. Initially it is a bit intimidating to understand the whole protocol, but since we were staying at the Gellert we kind of watched and got the grip. During peak hours the staff is not inclined to help with your language barriers, so you have to figure it out. But usually someone else will help. In Hajduszoboszlo, the lady in the locker room was downright rude, unfriendly and impatient that I was not sure what to do (and she was young so does not get away with the cover of being from the communist era), but another elderly customer close by, ¡¥adopted¡¦ me and asked me to just ¡¥follow¡¦ her, so for every rude person, they were many more friendly ones.

Currency

Except for that first exchange in London as a starer cash, we used ATM machines and credit card and had no problems at all.

All in all, a great experience, and we came away feeling we needed more days. We did not even cover the whole of Budapest, not even Danube bend, and did not get anywhere near North Western Hungary. Oh well¡Knext time.

Alice_the_Magyar

Thank you for a wonderful trip report! I enjoyed it so very much. I go to Hungary every year. I do some side trips by trains and bus's and such... But every time I check for car rentals, they are way out of my budget plan. I go for 6-7 weeks. I have family and friends in Budapest and "Also Bicske". Meaning First Bicske. Not Also....as in the American language.
I'm blessed as I pay them about $30.00's a day including most meals. I help buy food and extra's also.
I would like to rent a car for about a month. Can I ask you where you rented your car and about what it cost and for how long? As it would help me in planning my trip this year. Do you rent it before you leave home?

Alice_the_Magyar

I'm sorry I didn't mean to send that post. I was not finished yet. Thank you for any help. Alizka

Happy future travels to you....

Michael

Alice, check Autoeurope for car rentals. I also had good luck with Thrifty. If you want a car for a month or more, leasing is an option, but you would have to pick up the car in Munich and the pickup and drop-off fee for Munich might not make it worthwhile.