Driving Advice for Balkans
Jul 26th, 2019 | 08:36 AM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2013
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Driving Advice for Balkans
Hi Fodorites,
I’m finalizing the plan for our upcoming trip and looking closer at our big drive days. Below are the four main legs. Based on other posts, I’m not sure what website to trust in terms of which roads to use, drive times, etc.
Does anyone have any personal experience with the drives below and have any tips or advice to share? Especially curious about what roads to avoid, how long the drives took, etc.
Driving Routes:
We will have a GPS in our rental car but it sounds like I should have a paper map as a backup. Any suggestions on what to purchase?
Thanks in advance,
Tera
I’m finalizing the plan for our upcoming trip and looking closer at our big drive days. Below are the four main legs. Based on other posts, I’m not sure what website to trust in terms of which roads to use, drive times, etc.
Does anyone have any personal experience with the drives below and have any tips or advice to share? Especially curious about what roads to avoid, how long the drives took, etc.
Driving Routes:
- Dubrovnik Airport to Kotor
- Kotor to Sarajevo (via Trebinje?)
- Sarajevo to Mostar (via Jablanica)
- Mostar to Dubrovnik (via Kravice Waterfalls and Pocitelj)
We will have a GPS in our rental car but it sounds like I should have a paper map as a backup. Any suggestions on what to purchase?
Thanks in advance,
Tera
Jul 26th, 2019 | 08:09 PM
#2
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 25,679
Likes: 0
Oh please don't drive immediately upon arrival in Dubrovnik after flying from Ohare! 
It really is not a safe thing to do, for you or any one else, and there is no way to make it safe -- not caffeine, not sleeping on the plane, not anything.
I haven't driven the roads you are contemplating. I did drive from Dubrovnik to Kotor many years ago -- on a route that could be an option for you if you woulld spend a night in Dubrovnik first -- and the only problem I had was that the views were so stunning that I had trouble keeping my eyes on the road.
And the scenery between Dubrovnik and Mostar, and between Mostar and Sarajevo, was also so spectacular that you couldn't pay me to drive it. Not when convenient and comfortable public transportation is available and means no one has to give up those views.
Sorry I can't be more help with your specific questions.
It really is not a safe thing to do, for you or any one else, and there is no way to make it safe -- not caffeine, not sleeping on the plane, not anything.I haven't driven the roads you are contemplating. I did drive from Dubrovnik to Kotor many years ago -- on a route that could be an option for you if you woulld spend a night in Dubrovnik first -- and the only problem I had was that the views were so stunning that I had trouble keeping my eyes on the road.
And the scenery between Dubrovnik and Mostar, and between Mostar and Sarajevo, was also so spectacular that you couldn't pay me to drive it. Not when convenient and comfortable public transportation is available and means no one has to give up those views.
Sorry I can't be more help with your specific questions.
Jul 29th, 2019 | 07:40 PM
#3
Joined: Apr 2019
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Hi Tera,
Kja is right, you probably want to rest up in Dubrovnik before heading to Kotor. We were falling asleep as our driver took us from the airport to Dubrovnik, and that’s saying a lot because the scenery was beautiful! We didn’t want to be tired, but after coming in from O’Hare it was inevitable.
Regarding your route questions though, we drove from Dubrovnik to Mostar via Trebinje and the Serb area of Bosnia in June. We *thought* we didn’t have GPS in our rental car, because we tried it out in Dubrovnik and it didn’t appear to recognize Mostar. Luckily we had printed paper maps and it was completely fine. No roadblocks, the border at Brgat was quick too. I don’t remember an issue with signage UNTIL we got to Mostar. I was navigating and it was easy for the most part.
We brought from home printed maps and a screenshot of map/streets surrounding our hotel. But our screenshot didn’t show enough detail (other surrounding businesses to look for) and that, combined with the lack of street signs in old town Mostar....we wound up ridiculously lost. Out of sheer desperation, we tried the GPS again, and it worked! We found our hotel quickly and easily after that. So: 1) roads around Trebinje seemed fine; we didn’t encounter what your friend did. 2) Definitely bring paper maps with lots of landmarks to help you navigate. 3) Try the GPS, several times if necessary. 4) Another option, which we used AFTER the Mostar fiasco, is to pull up the route on your phone when you’re still connected to WiFi, before you set out. Kicking myself for not doing that before we left Dubrovnik.
I’m excited for you; the area is just so beautiful that it’s seriously enchanting.
karen
Kja is right, you probably want to rest up in Dubrovnik before heading to Kotor. We were falling asleep as our driver took us from the airport to Dubrovnik, and that’s saying a lot because the scenery was beautiful! We didn’t want to be tired, but after coming in from O’Hare it was inevitable.
Regarding your route questions though, we drove from Dubrovnik to Mostar via Trebinje and the Serb area of Bosnia in June. We *thought* we didn’t have GPS in our rental car, because we tried it out in Dubrovnik and it didn’t appear to recognize Mostar. Luckily we had printed paper maps and it was completely fine. No roadblocks, the border at Brgat was quick too. I don’t remember an issue with signage UNTIL we got to Mostar. I was navigating and it was easy for the most part.
We brought from home printed maps and a screenshot of map/streets surrounding our hotel. But our screenshot didn’t show enough detail (other surrounding businesses to look for) and that, combined with the lack of street signs in old town Mostar....we wound up ridiculously lost. Out of sheer desperation, we tried the GPS again, and it worked! We found our hotel quickly and easily after that. So: 1) roads around Trebinje seemed fine; we didn’t encounter what your friend did. 2) Definitely bring paper maps with lots of landmarks to help you navigate. 3) Try the GPS, several times if necessary. 4) Another option, which we used AFTER the Mostar fiasco, is to pull up the route on your phone when you’re still connected to WiFi, before you set out. Kicking myself for not doing that before we left Dubrovnik.
I’m excited for you; the area is just so beautiful that it’s seriously enchanting.
karen
Jul 30th, 2019 | 05:30 PM
#4
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 25,679
Likes: 0
Thanks for your personal insight, karen, and for your support of my well-intentioned warning! The area is enchanting, isn't it? 
One note of caution: It's my understanding that activating a rental car's GPS without having paid for it in advance can be costly. I could easily be mistaken, but would encourage you to be sure you know the costs and options in advance.
One note of caution: It's my understanding that activating a rental car's GPS without having paid for it in advance can be costly. I could easily be mistaken, but would encourage you to be sure you know the costs and options in advance.
Aug 1st, 2019 | 07:37 AM
#5
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 21,925
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I have not been on the road from Trebinje to Mostar for 9 years and didn't experience the road blocks your friends describe when there in 2010. I also don't remember that it was poorly signed but we were traveling with a friend who knew the route.
One note of caution and a suggestion for the Trebinje to Mostar drive: there are a large number of unexploded land mines on this route up to Stolac so be sure to stick to the road and villages. It is a beautiful drive. The route from Mostar to the coast via Pocitelj is not as scenic
is not as scenic.
In Stolac, the medieval necropolis in Radimlja is very interesting.
The route Sarajevo to Mostar (via Jablanica) is beautiful but slow. I can't remember the exact driving time.
One note of caution and a suggestion for the Trebinje to Mostar drive: there are a large number of unexploded land mines on this route up to Stolac so be sure to stick to the road and villages. It is a beautiful drive. The route from Mostar to the coast via Pocitelj is not as scenic
is not as scenic.
In Stolac, the medieval necropolis in Radimlja is very interesting.
The route Sarajevo to Mostar (via Jablanica) is beautiful but slow. I can't remember the exact driving time.
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