Dordogne Restuarants
Apr 19th, 2007 | 06:30 AM
#2
Joined: Dec 2005
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I know two, L'Auberge de la Nauze, and the 5 chateaux.
The Auberge is fine, not great. If you were in the area I would go, but not necessarily seek it out. The owners are very pleasant - we have good friends who have a holiday house directly behind, and their 9 year old daughter has the run of the kitchen with the owners' daughter. Nice family place, in a pretty setting.
Le Relais des 5 chateaux. This is somewhat of a puzzle. We really dislike the place, as we have had two of the 3 completely inedible dishes ever eaten in France there (library paste comes to mind.) But lots of people like it and it gets a reasonable mention in the Michelin guide. We have had other acceptable meals there, but have never found the welcome very welcoming, and have no urge to return.
La Belle Etoile - do you mean the one in La Roque Gageac? Also mentioned in the Red Guide, but I havent been there.
The Auberge is fine, not great. If you were in the area I would go, but not necessarily seek it out. The owners are very pleasant - we have good friends who have a holiday house directly behind, and their 9 year old daughter has the run of the kitchen with the owners' daughter. Nice family place, in a pretty setting.
Le Relais des 5 chateaux. This is somewhat of a puzzle. We really dislike the place, as we have had two of the 3 completely inedible dishes ever eaten in France there (library paste comes to mind.) But lots of people like it and it gets a reasonable mention in the Michelin guide. We have had other acceptable meals there, but have never found the welcome very welcoming, and have no urge to return.
La Belle Etoile - do you mean the one in La Roque Gageac? Also mentioned in the Red Guide, but I havent been there.
Apr 19th, 2007 | 06:35 AM
#3
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Apr 19th, 2007 | 07:27 AM
#4
Joined: Nov 2004
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From my 20+ page Dordogne itinerary. E-mail me at [email protected] if you want a copy.
Jardin d’Epicure - outside of St Cyprien, on the north side of D703 before the turnoff to St Cyprien & Castels. 05 53 30 40 95
Since the evening was somewhat warm, we opted to sit on the terrace for dinner at Jardin d’Epicure outside of St Cyprien. The dinner started with 3 pastry type amuse bouches, & one (probably gesiers) en brochette. This was followed by small cup of chilled cantaloupe puree. I had the menu a 170FF, starting with smoked salmon in a chive crème fraiche sauce, followed by daurade with tomato basil fondant. I had a cheese course (and, as always the case one helping of house made fromage fraiche). All followed by a chocolate mousse cake. Stu had the menu a 295FF (toujours le gourmand!). He started with a salad with vegetables and pan seared foie gras, with a sour type dressing, then bar (fish) with awesome (I tasted) eggplant caviar, then “lasagna” of riz de veau (sweetbreads) which was only a lasagna in that 2 feather light sheets of pasta were placed above & below the sauced entrée. His cheese course was truffled goat cheese with walnut oil and dessert was a chocolate gateau with an almost liquid center served with strawberry compote & candied orange rind. The owner/chef/waiter came out several times to chat & genuinely seemed to enjoy our praise (which was well earned). He said he had been up since 4AM, personally buying the restaurant food and, since his wife was home with their new month-old baby, he was doing many jobs at the restaurant. He was looking forward to tomorrow when the restaurant would be closed so he could get some sleep.
We ate here a second time. This time we ate inside and, as before, had a great dinner. Daddy & I each had the menu a 170FF. We both started with foie gras mi-cuit with rhubarb compote. I then had daurade (as did Daddy) with tomato coulis followed by a cheese course & sumptuous chocolate dessert. Stu had the menu a 260FF, starting with escargots with onion, fava beans, & rosemary cream. He then had sole with cepes, followed by lamb medallions with olives & basil. The cheese course was a cabecou cheese with truffle slices, and dessert was an orange crème brulee.
Sept ’03
Stu had the Menu a 62E (big splurge) & I had the menu a 38E. The restaurant was just as we remembered it – the owners (now) 3 year old daughter was socializing with the dining room. We remembered in 2000 how exhausted the chef was – trying to perform all roles while his (new mother) wife was home with their newborn. We both started with an amuse bouche tomato sorbet with basil & a very dense, creamy froth on the top. We also had a small plate of savories including gesiers, smoked salmon, halved cherry tomatoes with a small mozerella ball on top served with a tooth pick. Stu’s first course was a “declinization” of 3 foie gras: mi cuit, poele, and a crème brulee style served with a fig quenelle & a small green salad. This was followed by a riz de veau ravioli with a creamy morrell sauce. Then Stu had bar (a fish) with polenta & a creamy veal stock sauce with black truffles. After the fish course, he had pigeon with preserved garlic & a basil spice sauce. Stu’s cheese course was slices of chevre with summer truffles with oil & fleur de sel, accompanied by toasts. His dessert was a grand Marnier soufflé (it rose about 4” above its ramekin) served with a timbale-sized glass of grand Marnier which he drizzled over it. I started with foie gras poele accompanied by a small pear tatin & served with an apple juice reduction. I then had the rouget with tomato & basil pesto. I had the selections from the cheese chariot, followed by a “minestrone” of red fruits. We remembered that on our previous trip, this was perhaps our favorite restaurant. If anything, it is better now.
Sept ’05
We started with aperitifs: a kir for me and a “house” specialty for Stu consisting of Champagne & fruit liqueur. Our amuse Bouche was a cold green vichyssoise sprinkled with chives & served in wonderful squarish glasses. Stu had the menu a 46E. Foie Gras served with figs (compote) and grapes. He then had Daurade royal with “mashed potatoes” – mixed with olive oil – very rich and tapenade and ratatouille. He then had Magret d’Oie served with a red wine reduction with grilled tomatoes. His cheese course was a warm cheese en tart with salad dressed in a balsamic vinaigrette, followed by a chocolate quenelle with chocolate wafers/croustillant and caramel ice cream. I had the menu a 38E. Salmon marine served on little pancakes (blini) with strips of horseradish & beet puree. My main course was a filet de Maigre, served over a bed of Mediterranean flavored risotto. I had the same cheese course as Stu. Forgot to document my dessert.
We were both somewhat disappointed with the Jardin d’Epicure. This was our anniversary dinner, and the creativity of the menu selections was not as remarkable as on past visits. The Vichyssoise was somewhat tasteless, and the cheese course was nothing special at all. I’ll leave it in the “top 6” for now.
La Plume d’Oie in Roque Gageac 05 53 29 57 05
This restaurant is right on the road bordering the Dordogne. We both started with the house aperitif (couldn’t quite put our finger on the contents, but it may have had some peach liqueur). I had the menu a 195 FF, starting with what was called a “bisque”, but actually was 2 lobster ravioli (perfect pasta with melt in your mouth stuffing), with a fabulous lobster sauce. Then I had the “declinaition” of fish. Although I had my dictionary, I could not find this word defined in a food context (the related verb was “to reject”), but decided for “go for it” anyway & it was a good decision. It was 3 different fish fillets beautifully sautéed & sauced. No cheese course for me, but the desert was incredible chocolate mania !!! – a small cup of coffee with ice cream & chocolate drops which were partially melted, with a round of what was basically chocolate truffle filling topped with hard chocolate and (yes there was more !) a ball of chocolate sorbet. I figured that with the coffee & chocolate, the caffeine would keep me going for a week. Stu had the menu a 295FF starting with the foie gras in aspic – but unfortunately, we forgot to write down his remaining courses.
Sept ’03
We were the first people there; we remembered the hostess/co-owner from our prior visit: quite a character. Stu debated between the 24 and 35E menus, ultimately deciding on the 24E menu with langoustines & scallops as an a la carte addition. We had two wonderful Amuse Bouche courses: pastry cups filled with buttery sautéed cepes and a thin, fried crispy “tortilla” square topped with fromage blanc and then topped with a walnut. THEN, we had a small cup of cold potato vichyssoise soup garnished with chopped chives! Stu then had 3 langoustines and 3 scallops in a buttery saffron sauce, while I had a langoustine ravioli with a buttery crustacean sauce – so rich a sauce spoon was provided. We both had the cannette next (it was served on this menu for two only). This included the breast in a red wine reduction and a confit of the leg in a pilaf with vegetables. There was also a tian/quenelle made with a grain (described as ble, wheat on the menu). For dessert, Stu had an assortment of three chocolate decadences. I had a creation with meringue wafers alternating with layers of peach fondant, all with a peach coulis.
Sept ’05
The hostess was just as we remembered her from prior visits – quite a character. We discussed various topics of interest before and after the meal. We found out that she and her husband (the chef) had owned the restaurant for 25 years. We started with a plate of savories - pickled salmon on a toasted pastry, a luscious little tartlet filled with wild mushrooms, and a crème de foie gras on toast. We then had an amuse bouche of cream of leek soup with chives. We both had the 45E menu. Stu started with a presse (terrine) of chicken and foie gras, confit de pruneau, and a small side of frisee. His main course was grilled rascasse with saffron butter sauce, with broccoli & creamed root vegetables, garnished with chives. Cheese selections from the chariot. For dessert he had “all around chocolate” – chocolate sorbet, raspberry sorbet (granted – not chocolate, but a nice contrast), chocolate truffle in a small cup with a walnut half, a layered bittersweet chocolate hard “wafer” alternating with chocolate & caramel mousse. My choices were langoustine raviolis with crustacean sauce & julienned leeks & green onions. Breast of cannette with a vinegar reduction sauce & cubes of crispy-on-the-outside-&-creamy-on-the-inside potatoes (or perhaps polenta). Selections from the cheese cart, and then the same chocolate dessert as Stu.
Le Relais des Cinque Chateau, in Vezac 05 53 30 30 72
You really can see 5 castles from the restaurant. There was a wedding party in progress, but we sat in an enclosed garden area which, while simple, was quite lovely. Stu examined the “menu de degustation” & pronounced it even “too much” for him !!, so he settled on “Le menu Beynac” (198FF). I had “Le Menu Terroir” (155FF). Though I had a 3 course meal, my actual first course was a small cup of thick tomato puree cold “soup” which was served as an additional amuse bouche (we had already had one) to equalize the number of courses, since Stu had five. I started officially then with a slice of cold foie gras with toasts (the prescribed method) followed by magret de canard with a rich reduced sauce accompanied by cepes, thin green beans, roasted potatoes, and ratatouille !! The dessert was a walnut soufflé (we are in walnut country here) served cold almost like ice cream, with a sort of walnut liqueur drizzled over all. I almost forgot to mention that my foie gras course included a glass of sweet local wine called Monbazillac. Stu started with foie gras cooked in phyllo pastry with a reduced late harvest wine sauce. This was followed by sandre (white fish) rolled & stuffed & served with a chive cream sauce with mushroom duxelles. Then he had a veal loin with morel & chanterelle mushrooms in a reduced sauce with accompaniments like mine. He then had a cheese course (3 selections from a quite varied tray) and the duo of chocolate for dessert – white & dark chocolate layered mousse with a pistachio cream sauce. A very relaxing & excellent 3 hour French meal.
Sept ’03
Stu had wanted the “Grand Menu” at 49E, but it was required for the entire table & I simply couldn’t sign up for a 7 (!!) course meal. So Stu consoled himself with the menu a 35E. He started with grilled daurade served on a bed of salicorns. Following this was magret de canard with a red wine reduction, served with a wedge of potatoes dauphinois wrapped with a bacon slice, accompanied by sliced peaches and a green bean & julienned carrot melange topped with a herbed grilled tomato. The cheese chariot was his next course. All this was concluded with a “chocolate caramel temptation” layered chocolate & pastry, topped with a caramel layer. I choose the menu a 21.50E, starting with a crustacean terrine (mousse texture) which was wrapped in a rouget fillet (cold) accompanied by 3 dollops of flavored “mayonaise” sauces. Then I had the rascasse (fish) served with a lobster chive cream sauce. My cheese course was a small young cabecou (goat) cheese with a green salad. The cheese was very flavorful & the lemony dressing on the greens was a good accompaniment. My dessert was a walnut parfait (ice cream) drizzled with a walnut liqueur (a real winner).
Sept 05
It had been a beautiful & very warm day, do dinner was served outside (a very plesent ambience with the notable nearby chateaux providing the views).
The amuse bouche included olives, pickled vegetables, small pastry savories, & halved tomatoes with mozzarella cheese.
Stu had le menu a 36.50E Gourmande
-Assiette Perigordine with smoked magret, mach with walnut dressing topped with slices of summer truffles, foie gras 2 ways – mi-cuit with ground walnuts & sauteed with fleur du sel., accompanied by cherry compote, diced tomatoes, pink & white segments, a smoked maget & foie gras terrine, asparagus spear, & sprouts. Stu proclaimed this to be “the best yet”.
-Saint Jacques (scallops) & pineapple en brochette with a curry sauce served over salicorns, fava beans, root vegetables, & ratatouille.
-Surpreme de pintade with risotto & mushrooms with fried parsley/tomatoes.
-cheese course
-strawberries layered with croustillant and cream anglaise with strawberry coulis
I had the menu a 21.90E – it’s amazing that you can get an excellent dinner for this price.
-Gazpacho soup
-Rougets and leeks in a phyllo packet with a crustacean sauce served with salicorns, roasted tomatoes & rice
-to even things up with Stu’s additional course, I had another amuse bouche: a warm foie gras emulsion topped with a tomato puree, served in a tall glass.
-cheese course
-souflee glace with walnut dice & walnut liqueur – awesome!
This was truly an exceptional meal. The presentations were marvelous and the choices of menus and courses were fantastic. In fact, I made a last-minute change in menus – it was difficult to pick! Amazing value too: we both had kirs, 2 half-bottles of wine, Badoit, - 99E total.
We dined here a second time with friends who were visiting.
Belle Etoile, in Roque Gageac 05 53 29 51 44
We ate in their upstairs dining room looking out over the Dordogne. We had an amuse bouche of melon sorbet with Monbazillac (sweet) wine. Daddy & I each had the menu a 150FF. I had (my favorite) Rougets followed by a salad with goat cheese (cabecou) and, for dessert, a pastry “packet” with apples & walnuts with caramel sauce. Daddy had a fillet of beef, also with salad/chevre and a “chaud/froid” strawberry dessert with vanilla ice cream and Monbazillac sabayone. Stu had the menu a 195FF. He started with scallops sautéed on a bed of celery root puree with a “band” of carrots surrounding the scallops. He then had riz de veau (sweetbreads) & chevre salad.
Sept ’05
We dined in a different dining room on this visit. This one was east of the entrance, and a little more elegant than the other room.
Toasts with spiced avacado puree were on the table, and our Amuse Bouche was a pumpkin/chestnut veloute with whipped cream froth served in a tiny white soup tureen.
Stu had the menu a 37E:
-Fillet de Rouget in a bread crumb crust with a shellfish vinaigrette and tiny shellfish.
-Fillet of Boeuf with a Pecharmant (local red wine) sauce, a tart de pommes de terre and onion confit
-Warm cabecous salad
-Tart Tatin (like a miniature pie with a crinkled crust) with grand Marnier/Vanilla ice cream with a pool of crème anglaise on the side, drizzled with chocolate.
I had the menu a 23E
-Saumon marine – interesting presentation with the stripes of salmon wrapped around a bread stick (looking line a wand) accompanied by a herbed fromage blanc.
-Surpreme de Cannette with a green cabbage compote and potato gallette
Glazed strawberries with rosemary ice cream
Stu’s note – I almost never order beef in Europe because when I have, I’ve almost always been disappointed. The beef I ordered here was cooked perfectly, but the taste was not there. Prime beef in the US is much tastier. I have a very old video about “Dining in France” at the 3 star restaurants. On one of the tapes, Paul Bocuse said the same thing – the beef in the US is better than the beef in France.
Stu Dudley
Jardin d’Epicure - outside of St Cyprien, on the north side of D703 before the turnoff to St Cyprien & Castels. 05 53 30 40 95
Since the evening was somewhat warm, we opted to sit on the terrace for dinner at Jardin d’Epicure outside of St Cyprien. The dinner started with 3 pastry type amuse bouches, & one (probably gesiers) en brochette. This was followed by small cup of chilled cantaloupe puree. I had the menu a 170FF, starting with smoked salmon in a chive crème fraiche sauce, followed by daurade with tomato basil fondant. I had a cheese course (and, as always the case one helping of house made fromage fraiche). All followed by a chocolate mousse cake. Stu had the menu a 295FF (toujours le gourmand!). He started with a salad with vegetables and pan seared foie gras, with a sour type dressing, then bar (fish) with awesome (I tasted) eggplant caviar, then “lasagna” of riz de veau (sweetbreads) which was only a lasagna in that 2 feather light sheets of pasta were placed above & below the sauced entrée. His cheese course was truffled goat cheese with walnut oil and dessert was a chocolate gateau with an almost liquid center served with strawberry compote & candied orange rind. The owner/chef/waiter came out several times to chat & genuinely seemed to enjoy our praise (which was well earned). He said he had been up since 4AM, personally buying the restaurant food and, since his wife was home with their new month-old baby, he was doing many jobs at the restaurant. He was looking forward to tomorrow when the restaurant would be closed so he could get some sleep.
We ate here a second time. This time we ate inside and, as before, had a great dinner. Daddy & I each had the menu a 170FF. We both started with foie gras mi-cuit with rhubarb compote. I then had daurade (as did Daddy) with tomato coulis followed by a cheese course & sumptuous chocolate dessert. Stu had the menu a 260FF, starting with escargots with onion, fava beans, & rosemary cream. He then had sole with cepes, followed by lamb medallions with olives & basil. The cheese course was a cabecou cheese with truffle slices, and dessert was an orange crème brulee.
Sept ’03
Stu had the Menu a 62E (big splurge) & I had the menu a 38E. The restaurant was just as we remembered it – the owners (now) 3 year old daughter was socializing with the dining room. We remembered in 2000 how exhausted the chef was – trying to perform all roles while his (new mother) wife was home with their newborn. We both started with an amuse bouche tomato sorbet with basil & a very dense, creamy froth on the top. We also had a small plate of savories including gesiers, smoked salmon, halved cherry tomatoes with a small mozerella ball on top served with a tooth pick. Stu’s first course was a “declinization” of 3 foie gras: mi cuit, poele, and a crème brulee style served with a fig quenelle & a small green salad. This was followed by a riz de veau ravioli with a creamy morrell sauce. Then Stu had bar (a fish) with polenta & a creamy veal stock sauce with black truffles. After the fish course, he had pigeon with preserved garlic & a basil spice sauce. Stu’s cheese course was slices of chevre with summer truffles with oil & fleur de sel, accompanied by toasts. His dessert was a grand Marnier soufflé (it rose about 4” above its ramekin) served with a timbale-sized glass of grand Marnier which he drizzled over it. I started with foie gras poele accompanied by a small pear tatin & served with an apple juice reduction. I then had the rouget with tomato & basil pesto. I had the selections from the cheese chariot, followed by a “minestrone” of red fruits. We remembered that on our previous trip, this was perhaps our favorite restaurant. If anything, it is better now.
Sept ’05
We started with aperitifs: a kir for me and a “house” specialty for Stu consisting of Champagne & fruit liqueur. Our amuse Bouche was a cold green vichyssoise sprinkled with chives & served in wonderful squarish glasses. Stu had the menu a 46E. Foie Gras served with figs (compote) and grapes. He then had Daurade royal with “mashed potatoes” – mixed with olive oil – very rich and tapenade and ratatouille. He then had Magret d’Oie served with a red wine reduction with grilled tomatoes. His cheese course was a warm cheese en tart with salad dressed in a balsamic vinaigrette, followed by a chocolate quenelle with chocolate wafers/croustillant and caramel ice cream. I had the menu a 38E. Salmon marine served on little pancakes (blini) with strips of horseradish & beet puree. My main course was a filet de Maigre, served over a bed of Mediterranean flavored risotto. I had the same cheese course as Stu. Forgot to document my dessert.
We were both somewhat disappointed with the Jardin d’Epicure. This was our anniversary dinner, and the creativity of the menu selections was not as remarkable as on past visits. The Vichyssoise was somewhat tasteless, and the cheese course was nothing special at all. I’ll leave it in the “top 6” for now.
La Plume d’Oie in Roque Gageac 05 53 29 57 05
This restaurant is right on the road bordering the Dordogne. We both started with the house aperitif (couldn’t quite put our finger on the contents, but it may have had some peach liqueur). I had the menu a 195 FF, starting with what was called a “bisque”, but actually was 2 lobster ravioli (perfect pasta with melt in your mouth stuffing), with a fabulous lobster sauce. Then I had the “declinaition” of fish. Although I had my dictionary, I could not find this word defined in a food context (the related verb was “to reject”), but decided for “go for it” anyway & it was a good decision. It was 3 different fish fillets beautifully sautéed & sauced. No cheese course for me, but the desert was incredible chocolate mania !!! – a small cup of coffee with ice cream & chocolate drops which were partially melted, with a round of what was basically chocolate truffle filling topped with hard chocolate and (yes there was more !) a ball of chocolate sorbet. I figured that with the coffee & chocolate, the caffeine would keep me going for a week. Stu had the menu a 295FF starting with the foie gras in aspic – but unfortunately, we forgot to write down his remaining courses.
Sept ’03
We were the first people there; we remembered the hostess/co-owner from our prior visit: quite a character. Stu debated between the 24 and 35E menus, ultimately deciding on the 24E menu with langoustines & scallops as an a la carte addition. We had two wonderful Amuse Bouche courses: pastry cups filled with buttery sautéed cepes and a thin, fried crispy “tortilla” square topped with fromage blanc and then topped with a walnut. THEN, we had a small cup of cold potato vichyssoise soup garnished with chopped chives! Stu then had 3 langoustines and 3 scallops in a buttery saffron sauce, while I had a langoustine ravioli with a buttery crustacean sauce – so rich a sauce spoon was provided. We both had the cannette next (it was served on this menu for two only). This included the breast in a red wine reduction and a confit of the leg in a pilaf with vegetables. There was also a tian/quenelle made with a grain (described as ble, wheat on the menu). For dessert, Stu had an assortment of three chocolate decadences. I had a creation with meringue wafers alternating with layers of peach fondant, all with a peach coulis.
Sept ’05
The hostess was just as we remembered her from prior visits – quite a character. We discussed various topics of interest before and after the meal. We found out that she and her husband (the chef) had owned the restaurant for 25 years. We started with a plate of savories - pickled salmon on a toasted pastry, a luscious little tartlet filled with wild mushrooms, and a crème de foie gras on toast. We then had an amuse bouche of cream of leek soup with chives. We both had the 45E menu. Stu started with a presse (terrine) of chicken and foie gras, confit de pruneau, and a small side of frisee. His main course was grilled rascasse with saffron butter sauce, with broccoli & creamed root vegetables, garnished with chives. Cheese selections from the chariot. For dessert he had “all around chocolate” – chocolate sorbet, raspberry sorbet (granted – not chocolate, but a nice contrast), chocolate truffle in a small cup with a walnut half, a layered bittersweet chocolate hard “wafer” alternating with chocolate & caramel mousse. My choices were langoustine raviolis with crustacean sauce & julienned leeks & green onions. Breast of cannette with a vinegar reduction sauce & cubes of crispy-on-the-outside-&-creamy-on-the-inside potatoes (or perhaps polenta). Selections from the cheese cart, and then the same chocolate dessert as Stu.
Le Relais des Cinque Chateau, in Vezac 05 53 30 30 72
You really can see 5 castles from the restaurant. There was a wedding party in progress, but we sat in an enclosed garden area which, while simple, was quite lovely. Stu examined the “menu de degustation” & pronounced it even “too much” for him !!, so he settled on “Le menu Beynac” (198FF). I had “Le Menu Terroir” (155FF). Though I had a 3 course meal, my actual first course was a small cup of thick tomato puree cold “soup” which was served as an additional amuse bouche (we had already had one) to equalize the number of courses, since Stu had five. I started officially then with a slice of cold foie gras with toasts (the prescribed method) followed by magret de canard with a rich reduced sauce accompanied by cepes, thin green beans, roasted potatoes, and ratatouille !! The dessert was a walnut soufflé (we are in walnut country here) served cold almost like ice cream, with a sort of walnut liqueur drizzled over all. I almost forgot to mention that my foie gras course included a glass of sweet local wine called Monbazillac. Stu started with foie gras cooked in phyllo pastry with a reduced late harvest wine sauce. This was followed by sandre (white fish) rolled & stuffed & served with a chive cream sauce with mushroom duxelles. Then he had a veal loin with morel & chanterelle mushrooms in a reduced sauce with accompaniments like mine. He then had a cheese course (3 selections from a quite varied tray) and the duo of chocolate for dessert – white & dark chocolate layered mousse with a pistachio cream sauce. A very relaxing & excellent 3 hour French meal.
Sept ’03
Stu had wanted the “Grand Menu” at 49E, but it was required for the entire table & I simply couldn’t sign up for a 7 (!!) course meal. So Stu consoled himself with the menu a 35E. He started with grilled daurade served on a bed of salicorns. Following this was magret de canard with a red wine reduction, served with a wedge of potatoes dauphinois wrapped with a bacon slice, accompanied by sliced peaches and a green bean & julienned carrot melange topped with a herbed grilled tomato. The cheese chariot was his next course. All this was concluded with a “chocolate caramel temptation” layered chocolate & pastry, topped with a caramel layer. I choose the menu a 21.50E, starting with a crustacean terrine (mousse texture) which was wrapped in a rouget fillet (cold) accompanied by 3 dollops of flavored “mayonaise” sauces. Then I had the rascasse (fish) served with a lobster chive cream sauce. My cheese course was a small young cabecou (goat) cheese with a green salad. The cheese was very flavorful & the lemony dressing on the greens was a good accompaniment. My dessert was a walnut parfait (ice cream) drizzled with a walnut liqueur (a real winner).
Sept 05
It had been a beautiful & very warm day, do dinner was served outside (a very plesent ambience with the notable nearby chateaux providing the views).
The amuse bouche included olives, pickled vegetables, small pastry savories, & halved tomatoes with mozzarella cheese.
Stu had le menu a 36.50E Gourmande
-Assiette Perigordine with smoked magret, mach with walnut dressing topped with slices of summer truffles, foie gras 2 ways – mi-cuit with ground walnuts & sauteed with fleur du sel., accompanied by cherry compote, diced tomatoes, pink & white segments, a smoked maget & foie gras terrine, asparagus spear, & sprouts. Stu proclaimed this to be “the best yet”.
-Saint Jacques (scallops) & pineapple en brochette with a curry sauce served over salicorns, fava beans, root vegetables, & ratatouille.
-Surpreme de pintade with risotto & mushrooms with fried parsley/tomatoes.
-cheese course
-strawberries layered with croustillant and cream anglaise with strawberry coulis
I had the menu a 21.90E – it’s amazing that you can get an excellent dinner for this price.
-Gazpacho soup
-Rougets and leeks in a phyllo packet with a crustacean sauce served with salicorns, roasted tomatoes & rice
-to even things up with Stu’s additional course, I had another amuse bouche: a warm foie gras emulsion topped with a tomato puree, served in a tall glass.
-cheese course
-souflee glace with walnut dice & walnut liqueur – awesome!
This was truly an exceptional meal. The presentations were marvelous and the choices of menus and courses were fantastic. In fact, I made a last-minute change in menus – it was difficult to pick! Amazing value too: we both had kirs, 2 half-bottles of wine, Badoit, - 99E total.
We dined here a second time with friends who were visiting.
Belle Etoile, in Roque Gageac 05 53 29 51 44
We ate in their upstairs dining room looking out over the Dordogne. We had an amuse bouche of melon sorbet with Monbazillac (sweet) wine. Daddy & I each had the menu a 150FF. I had (my favorite) Rougets followed by a salad with goat cheese (cabecou) and, for dessert, a pastry “packet” with apples & walnuts with caramel sauce. Daddy had a fillet of beef, also with salad/chevre and a “chaud/froid” strawberry dessert with vanilla ice cream and Monbazillac sabayone. Stu had the menu a 195FF. He started with scallops sautéed on a bed of celery root puree with a “band” of carrots surrounding the scallops. He then had riz de veau (sweetbreads) & chevre salad.
Sept ’05
We dined in a different dining room on this visit. This one was east of the entrance, and a little more elegant than the other room.
Toasts with spiced avacado puree were on the table, and our Amuse Bouche was a pumpkin/chestnut veloute with whipped cream froth served in a tiny white soup tureen.
Stu had the menu a 37E:
-Fillet de Rouget in a bread crumb crust with a shellfish vinaigrette and tiny shellfish.
-Fillet of Boeuf with a Pecharmant (local red wine) sauce, a tart de pommes de terre and onion confit
-Warm cabecous salad
-Tart Tatin (like a miniature pie with a crinkled crust) with grand Marnier/Vanilla ice cream with a pool of crème anglaise on the side, drizzled with chocolate.
I had the menu a 23E
-Saumon marine – interesting presentation with the stripes of salmon wrapped around a bread stick (looking line a wand) accompanied by a herbed fromage blanc.
-Surpreme de Cannette with a green cabbage compote and potato gallette
Glazed strawberries with rosemary ice cream
Stu’s note – I almost never order beef in Europe because when I have, I’ve almost always been disappointed. The beef I ordered here was cooked perfectly, but the taste was not there. Prime beef in the US is much tastier. I have a very old video about “Dining in France” at the 3 star restaurants. On one of the tapes, Paul Bocuse said the same thing – the beef in the US is better than the beef in France.
Stu Dudley
Apr 22nd, 2007 | 01:15 PM
#5
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 0
Lest I seem too negative regarding restaurants, I just wanted to share our experience at lunch today.
We went to Lanquais, further west than St. Cyprien - if you are going to the Limeuil/Tremolat/Lalinde area you wont be far. Since it was about 28 degrees, (mid 80's I think) we decided to take the convertible and head out into the countryside.
There's an attractive chateau in the village, probably seen in many films, with a wonderful stone barn, but we just went for a really good lunch at Auberge des Marronniers (05 53 24 93 78)
Sat under the chestnut tree (marronnier) and each had a menu about 20 euros. Started with soup, (not even listed on the menu, but just expected in a Dordogne restaurant.) Then I had the assiette perigourdine, with foie gras, salad with walnuts, and rillettes (kind of pate but richer.) Harry had fresh asparagus with morel mushrooms in a cream sauce, under flaky pastry. Main courses of rack of lamb, tender pink and garlicky, and veal scallops, potatoes, veg. A very good cheese board, about 8 or 9 good quality cheeses, then he had creme brulee, I chose fresh strawberries with wonderful yellow vanilla ice cream. A bottle of rose, bottle of water and two coffees, tax and service included - all for less than 60 euros.
We particularly like this kind of unpretentious family restaurant, full of French, rather than tourists, serving good quality, good tasting food.
So, if you find yourself in that area, we highly recommend it - they do even cheaper menus in the week.
We went to Lanquais, further west than St. Cyprien - if you are going to the Limeuil/Tremolat/Lalinde area you wont be far. Since it was about 28 degrees, (mid 80's I think) we decided to take the convertible and head out into the countryside.
There's an attractive chateau in the village, probably seen in many films, with a wonderful stone barn, but we just went for a really good lunch at Auberge des Marronniers (05 53 24 93 78)
Sat under the chestnut tree (marronnier) and each had a menu about 20 euros. Started with soup, (not even listed on the menu, but just expected in a Dordogne restaurant.) Then I had the assiette perigourdine, with foie gras, salad with walnuts, and rillettes (kind of pate but richer.) Harry had fresh asparagus with morel mushrooms in a cream sauce, under flaky pastry. Main courses of rack of lamb, tender pink and garlicky, and veal scallops, potatoes, veg. A very good cheese board, about 8 or 9 good quality cheeses, then he had creme brulee, I chose fresh strawberries with wonderful yellow vanilla ice cream. A bottle of rose, bottle of water and two coffees, tax and service included - all for less than 60 euros.
We particularly like this kind of unpretentious family restaurant, full of French, rather than tourists, serving good quality, good tasting food.
So, if you find yourself in that area, we highly recommend it - they do even cheaper menus in the week.
Apr 22nd, 2007 | 01:33 PM
#6
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
Likes: 0
I've had quite a few meals at the last two on your list (never heard of the first one).
All meals at both restaurants were great, with the Belle Etoile overall slightly better. Love them both and will be returning I hope soon.
The Abbaye right in St-Cyprien is also a good place,if somewhat austere.
All meals at both restaurants were great, with the Belle Etoile overall slightly better. Love them both and will be returning I hope soon.
The Abbaye right in St-Cyprien is also a good place,if somewhat austere.
Apr 22nd, 2007 | 01:42 PM
#7
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 74,699
Likes: 0
Hi ds,
There are reviews of Plume d'Oie (open Sunday)in La Roque Gageac, Le Meynardie (www.en-dordogne.com/lameynardie/index.php) near Salignac - a Stu Dudley recommendation, La Belle Etoile, and Auberge Cinq Chateaux in my trip report:
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34676645
Enjoy your visit.
There are reviews of Plume d'Oie (open Sunday)in La Roque Gageac, Le Meynardie (www.en-dordogne.com/lameynardie/index.php) near Salignac - a Stu Dudley recommendation, La Belle Etoile, and Auberge Cinq Chateaux in my trip report:
http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...p;tid=34676645
Enjoy your visit.
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Apr 22nd, 2007 | 02:28 PM
#8
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 0
Twice we dined at La Belle Etoile in La Roque Gageac during our trip September of last year. We were very pleased with the menu and, imho, they’re slightly more creative about the local dishes which are almost traditionally-executed in most of the restaurants in the area.
We dined at Cinq Chateaux at Vezac during that time, too. The food here tended more to traditional execution and preparation – i.e. your traditional seared foie gras in reduced sweet grape sauce, or a quarter duck confit prepared as traditional as they do every where else. It’s not bad, and Eric Vasseur the chef comes out and engages with the diners.
La Belle Etoile was one of our favorite restaurants during that trip. The restaurant is nicely set-up and has more of that type of livelier ambiance, i.e. more lights and light colored surroundingf, that we like.
We dined at Cinq Chateaux at Vezac during that time, too. The food here tended more to traditional execution and preparation – i.e. your traditional seared foie gras in reduced sweet grape sauce, or a quarter duck confit prepared as traditional as they do every where else. It’s not bad, and Eric Vasseur the chef comes out and engages with the diners.
La Belle Etoile was one of our favorite restaurants during that trip. The restaurant is nicely set-up and has more of that type of livelier ambiance, i.e. more lights and light colored surroundingf, that we like.
Apr 23rd, 2007 | 06:48 AM
#9
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Sad news for Stu, and others who've enjoyed eating at Le Jardin d'Epicure near St. Cyprien. A friend has told me it's closed and I just called them to inquire, and received the message that the phone number has been disconnected. Tried twice, to be sure I hadn't misdialed.
St. Cirq - We ate under the tent at the flower fair in Le Bugue yesterday...kir, soupe, apero buffet (jambon, paté, tabbouli, seafood pasta salad and rice salad), blanquette de veau for the plat, followed by cheese, and a coffee eclair. Plus unlimited red wine (which I diluted with water because I was so warm). 12€.
Were you there?
St. Cirq - We ate under the tent at the flower fair in Le Bugue yesterday...kir, soupe, apero buffet (jambon, paté, tabbouli, seafood pasta salad and rice salad), blanquette de veau for the plat, followed by cheese, and a coffee eclair. Plus unlimited red wine (which I diluted with water because I was so warm). 12€.
Were you there?
Sep 21st, 2007 | 12:25 PM
#12
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,707
Likes: 0
Just an update that Jardin d'epicure is indeed closed, but a new restaurant called Bistro d'epicure has opened on the site.
We haven't been yet, as we tend to avoid the summer rush and have been busy in September, but intend to go soon.
It has had good reviews from the locals, and as the owners' parents are good friends of ours in our village, we are interested to see how it is. Will report back when we do.
We haven't been yet, as we tend to avoid the summer rush and have been busy in September, but intend to go soon.
It has had good reviews from the locals, and as the owners' parents are good friends of ours in our village, we are interested to see how it is. Will report back when we do.
