Dordogne Restaurants for Lunch and Other Questions
Feb 19th, 2007, 01:49 PM
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Dordogne Restaurants for Lunch and Other Questions
I already have pages and pages of notes for our upcoming (May) trip, but still have some questions. We'll be visiting the Dordogne, staying in Sarlat, and visiting many of the usual places in the area (we'll be there 4 nights, and will be coming from the Languedoc; DH and I have visited before; it'll be the first time for our son).
I'm guessing that we won't (or rather, our stomaches won't) be able to have gourmand-type meals both lunch and dinner. I have plenty of ideas for dinner, and some for lunch too (Les Fontenilles's fois gras sandwich appetizer is near the top of the list). But can anyone suggest any creperie (or pizzeria) places that will allow us to save room for dinner? Ideas of places on the river (Dordogne or others) would be good too, for lunch or just drinks.
Also, a question on the falconry exhibit at les Milandes. We've seen a number of raptor shows (they're popular where we live). Will the falconry show be different - do the birds fly in the air, or go after targets, or anything like that? And I'm guessing the show will be in French - is it self-explanatory enough that a boy who doesn't speak French will enjoy it anyway?
Can anyone provide more details about Gouffre du Padirac? Is it pretty much a boat ride on an underground river? I don't want to get burned out on caves before we reach the biggies on our "must-see" cave list (Grotte du Niaux & Pech-Merle would be before Padirac; Lascaux II and Font du Gaume would be after).
On the day we visit Lascaux II, assuming the English tour is still at noon, I'm hoping we can make it to La Table du Terroir for lunch afterwards. I'll email the restaurant to find out their open hours. Any other factors in this plan that I should consider? (I know, this is contrary to my "light lunch" request; but we loved this place on our last visit.)
We'll eat dinner one night at Bistro d'Octroi. I'm also considering a dinner at La Meynardie. Given that the restaurants have the same owners, are the cuisines similar enough that I might want to consider a different restaurant for dinner?
Thanks in advance!
I'm guessing that we won't (or rather, our stomaches won't) be able to have gourmand-type meals both lunch and dinner. I have plenty of ideas for dinner, and some for lunch too (Les Fontenilles's fois gras sandwich appetizer is near the top of the list). But can anyone suggest any creperie (or pizzeria) places that will allow us to save room for dinner? Ideas of places on the river (Dordogne or others) would be good too, for lunch or just drinks.
Also, a question on the falconry exhibit at les Milandes. We've seen a number of raptor shows (they're popular where we live). Will the falconry show be different - do the birds fly in the air, or go after targets, or anything like that? And I'm guessing the show will be in French - is it self-explanatory enough that a boy who doesn't speak French will enjoy it anyway?
Can anyone provide more details about Gouffre du Padirac? Is it pretty much a boat ride on an underground river? I don't want to get burned out on caves before we reach the biggies on our "must-see" cave list (Grotte du Niaux & Pech-Merle would be before Padirac; Lascaux II and Font du Gaume would be after).
On the day we visit Lascaux II, assuming the English tour is still at noon, I'm hoping we can make it to La Table du Terroir for lunch afterwards. I'll email the restaurant to find out their open hours. Any other factors in this plan that I should consider? (I know, this is contrary to my "light lunch" request; but we loved this place on our last visit.)
We'll eat dinner one night at Bistro d'Octroi. I'm also considering a dinner at La Meynardie. Given that the restaurants have the same owners, are the cuisines similar enough that I might want to consider a different restaurant for dinner?
Thanks in advance!
Feb 19th, 2007, 02:04 PM
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Les Fontenilles has been under new management for the past two years, and it's horrible. Take it off your list.
In Les Eyzies there's a great inexpensive family place called Le Mentalo that services sandwiches and salads and past a pizza that my kids have always adored. It's just down the street from the entrance to Font-de-Gaume across the street from the laundromat and taxi service (on the right on your way back into town).
Le Chai in Limeuil is another great place for salads and small plates, and they have an exceptional selection of sorbets and ice creams (everything from saffron to rose and violet, clove.....)
In Sarlat, my kids love the Roma for pizza and pasta and salads. And then there's (I think this is the name), also in Sarlat,Chez les Gaullois, which serves Savoyard fare like tartiflette and hearty sandwiches. It's not far from the cathedral on the main "internal" wlking street. And there's a tiny bar/café about 20 yards up the hill in Beynac that has about 4 tables outside that has great sandwiches for packing for that canoe trip. The places right ON the river are of course more expensive. ANd the Café de la Rivière is run by Brits who have a penchant for salad cream and jello - I wouldn't put that high on the list. Actually, as you'll find, there's no shortage of inexpensive lunch places that kids will enjoy and where the food's very decent.
The Gouffre de Padirac invol,ves descening by foot or elevator into an enormous hole in the ground and then talking a boat ride with gondolier-like characters. At one point you disembark and walk around inside the cavers, then get back on the boat for the return. It's not a chromatic cave, so nothing like the others you're planning to visit.
Haven't seen the falconry exhibition at Les MIlandes for a few years, but yes it was in French and was mostly a display of the various birds and the ways the trainers trained and used them.
Can't answer your other questions, but if you want more restaurant recommendations let me know.
In Les Eyzies there's a great inexpensive family place called Le Mentalo that services sandwiches and salads and past a pizza that my kids have always adored. It's just down the street from the entrance to Font-de-Gaume across the street from the laundromat and taxi service (on the right on your way back into town).
Le Chai in Limeuil is another great place for salads and small plates, and they have an exceptional selection of sorbets and ice creams (everything from saffron to rose and violet, clove.....)
In Sarlat, my kids love the Roma for pizza and pasta and salads. And then there's (I think this is the name), also in Sarlat,Chez les Gaullois, which serves Savoyard fare like tartiflette and hearty sandwiches. It's not far from the cathedral on the main "internal" wlking street. And there's a tiny bar/café about 20 yards up the hill in Beynac that has about 4 tables outside that has great sandwiches for packing for that canoe trip. The places right ON the river are of course more expensive. ANd the Café de la Rivière is run by Brits who have a penchant for salad cream and jello - I wouldn't put that high on the list. Actually, as you'll find, there's no shortage of inexpensive lunch places that kids will enjoy and where the food's very decent.
The Gouffre de Padirac invol,ves descening by foot or elevator into an enormous hole in the ground and then talking a boat ride with gondolier-like characters. At one point you disembark and walk around inside the cavers, then get back on the boat for the return. It's not a chromatic cave, so nothing like the others you're planning to visit.
Haven't seen the falconry exhibition at Les MIlandes for a few years, but yes it was in French and was mostly a display of the various birds and the ways the trainers trained and used them.
Can't answer your other questions, but if you want more restaurant recommendations let me know.
Feb 19th, 2007, 02:15 PM
#4
Hi, Lex - Dordogne on May should be lovely - many ops will be very jealous.
Firstly the gouffre de padirac, as an OP says, is a stalactite/stalacmite cave. You go down hundreds of steps, followed by an ancient lift, then along the river in boats til you get to the cave proper. IT IS STUNNING!
THen you take the lift back up.
The whole thing takes about 2 hours. THare are a couple of cafes at the top.
AS for Lascaux 11, not familiar with your chosen restaurant. The tour didn't take that long, not even with queing up first. WE broke our usual rule, and followed the instructions from the elderly retainer handing out leaflets for a local restaurant in the car park. [the elderly retiner was in the car park ,not the resturant]
It was about 5 minutes drive through the woods [left out of the car park] and was really excellent.
La Maynardie is very good, but not very child friendly. How old/sophisticated is your son? thier on-line menu shoudl give you an idea whether he will like it or not. "Steak frites" it ain't!
Good luck!
Firstly the gouffre de padirac, as an OP says, is a stalactite/stalacmite cave. You go down hundreds of steps, followed by an ancient lift, then along the river in boats til you get to the cave proper. IT IS STUNNING!
THen you take the lift back up.
The whole thing takes about 2 hours. THare are a couple of cafes at the top.
AS for Lascaux 11, not familiar with your chosen restaurant. The tour didn't take that long, not even with queing up first. WE broke our usual rule, and followed the instructions from the elderly retainer handing out leaflets for a local restaurant in the car park. [the elderly retiner was in the car park ,not the resturant]
It was about 5 minutes drive through the woods [left out of the car park] and was really excellent.
La Maynardie is very good, but not very child friendly. How old/sophisticated is your son? thier on-line menu shoudl give you an idea whether he will like it or not. "Steak frites" it ain't!
Good luck!
Feb 19th, 2007, 03:57 PM
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I'm so sad about Les Fontenilles - we never got there for lunch on our first visit to the Dordogne, and it's been on my list ever since.
How funny about Mentalo - we had a light lunch there, twice, on our last trip! We may return, if we're there at lunchtime. And I think I know the British-run place in Beynac - we stopped there for drinks and had a nice time talking to the owner.
Love the "Le Chai" suggestion, with the ice cream flavors. They sound like macaron flavors!
Ira - StuDudley's report is one of the reasons we have Meynardie on the list.
Our son is turning 12 while we're in the Dordogne, and is, I'm happy to say for our adult dining pleasure, very sophisticated dining-wise. On our last trip to France with him, he had frogs legs, rillettes and pigeon for the first time (he'd already had duck and escargot). He'll try almost everything, and likes most of it (except for eggplant and broccoli).
If you have any other dining ideas, I'll add them to the list. (If we don't get to them all this trip, we'll always have next time...)
How funny about Mentalo - we had a light lunch there, twice, on our last trip! We may return, if we're there at lunchtime. And I think I know the British-run place in Beynac - we stopped there for drinks and had a nice time talking to the owner.
Love the "Le Chai" suggestion, with the ice cream flavors. They sound like macaron flavors!
Ira - StuDudley's report is one of the reasons we have Meynardie on the list.
Our son is turning 12 while we're in the Dordogne, and is, I'm happy to say for our adult dining pleasure, very sophisticated dining-wise. On our last trip to France with him, he had frogs legs, rillettes and pigeon for the first time (he'd already had duck and escargot). He'll try almost everything, and likes most of it (except for eggplant and broccoli).
If you have any other dining ideas, I'll add them to the list. (If we don't get to them all this trip, we'll always have next time...)
Feb 19th, 2007, 04:15 PM
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Hi Lexma, I'm glad you posted this question because I know we can't do a big lunch <i>and</i> a big dinner, especially since I'm pregnant and do much better eating smaller portions more frequently. So, I hope you don't mind I jump on this one.
I read an old trip report about someone that had lunch at a walnut mill near Martel. Does anyone know more about this? This sounds very interesting to me as I looove nuts and I think we can arrange to be near Martel one day for lunch.
I also need recommendations for 1)lunch not far from Lascaux and 2) in either La Roque-Gageac and/or Beynac.
Ann, do you have the website for La Meynardie's menu?
Finally, based on the trip reports here and elsewhere, here's a long list I compiled of some serious dining places. We won't be able to try them all! Any other comments on which may be on the upswing/downswing (i.e., which should be crossed out and which should get a little star next to them?)
Domme - L'esplanade
La Roque-Gageac - Le Plume d'Oie
La Roque-Gageac - Belle Etoile
Sarlat - Le Bistro de l'Octroi
Sarlat - Le Presidial
Paulin Salignac - La Meynardie
Monpazier - Restaurant La Bastide
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac - Moulin de la Beaune
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac - La Metaire
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac - Le Centenaire
Tremolat - Le Vieux Logis
Tremolat - Le Bistrot d'en Face
Vezac - Le Relais de Cinque Chateau
St Cyprien (near) - Jardin d’Epicure
There's also the Moulin de l'Abbaye in Brantome, but we probably won't be going that far in this trip.
I read an old trip report about someone that had lunch at a walnut mill near Martel. Does anyone know more about this? This sounds very interesting to me as I looove nuts and I think we can arrange to be near Martel one day for lunch.
I also need recommendations for 1)lunch not far from Lascaux and 2) in either La Roque-Gageac and/or Beynac.
Ann, do you have the website for La Meynardie's menu?
Finally, based on the trip reports here and elsewhere, here's a long list I compiled of some serious dining places. We won't be able to try them all! Any other comments on which may be on the upswing/downswing (i.e., which should be crossed out and which should get a little star next to them?)
Domme - L'esplanade
La Roque-Gageac - Le Plume d'Oie
La Roque-Gageac - Belle Etoile
Sarlat - Le Bistro de l'Octroi
Sarlat - Le Presidial
Paulin Salignac - La Meynardie
Monpazier - Restaurant La Bastide
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac - Moulin de la Beaune
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac - La Metaire
Les Eyzies-de-Tayac - Le Centenaire
Tremolat - Le Vieux Logis
Tremolat - Le Bistrot d'en Face
Vezac - Le Relais de Cinque Chateau
St Cyprien (near) - Jardin d’Epicure
There's also the Moulin de l'Abbaye in Brantome, but we probably won't be going that far in this trip.
Feb 19th, 2007, 04:39 PM
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<<falconry exhibit at les Milandes>>
We visited last May and were very impressed. The birds are housed outside (if the weather is fine enough) and the show itsef is quite intimate. The trainer works inside a circle, around which the visitors sit, of about 100 ft. The birds fly out oer the valley and come back (hopefully) to lures so it is quite spectacular. Sit with your backs to the chateau for the best view. Language is of little problem - there were written programs in English. He brought around several of the birds and posed with the visitors so have your camera.
There is a rather good outside cafe there as well which is a possible for lunch. Among the typical fare was delicious lamb chops and a great cassoulet.
Just as a word of catution - The chateau where the falconery exhibit is housed, is the former home of Josephine Baker. The chateau self-guided tour is wonderful but there are plenty of full nude pictures of Josephine Baker. Some would find this embarassing with a 12 yearold, others would not. Just so you know. You can visit the falconery show without visiting the chateau if you wish.
We visited last May and were very impressed. The birds are housed outside (if the weather is fine enough) and the show itsef is quite intimate. The trainer works inside a circle, around which the visitors sit, of about 100 ft. The birds fly out oer the valley and come back (hopefully) to lures so it is quite spectacular. Sit with your backs to the chateau for the best view. Language is of little problem - there were written programs in English. He brought around several of the birds and posed with the visitors so have your camera.
There is a rather good outside cafe there as well which is a possible for lunch. Among the typical fare was delicious lamb chops and a great cassoulet.
Just as a word of catution - The chateau where the falconery exhibit is housed, is the former home of Josephine Baker. The chateau self-guided tour is wonderful but there are plenty of full nude pictures of Josephine Baker. Some would find this embarassing with a 12 yearold, others would not. Just so you know. You can visit the falconery show without visiting the chateau if you wish.
Feb 19th, 2007, 04:41 PM
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Mariarosa,
I have had two lunches at the walnut oil mill near Martel and I enjoyed each one immensely. I wrote about my second, most recent, lunch and visit in my trip report from last October; just scroll past the Basque section and you will find it, with the appropriate links:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34894706
The mill is located about 3 km. east of Martel; you turn off the main road D803 onto a dirt driveway that leads to the main structure. You must call ahead to reserve lunch. Tel: 05-65-37-40-69.
I have had two lunches at the walnut oil mill near Martel and I enjoyed each one immensely. I wrote about my second, most recent, lunch and visit in my trip report from last October; just scroll past the Basque section and you will find it, with the appropriate links:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34894706
The mill is located about 3 km. east of Martel; you turn off the main road D803 onto a dirt driveway that leads to the main structure. You must call ahead to reserve lunch. Tel: 05-65-37-40-69.
Feb 19th, 2007, 04:57 PM
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I've seen the falconry show several times. It is much more than just a "show & tell". The birds do quite a bit of flying & retrieving food that has been flung in the air using a long rope to do so. They even do a little "trickery" - they release a live white mouse that runs into a shelter. Later, the mouse appears again & runs across the lawn, where it is dinner for one of the birds - except you realize that it wasn't really the live mouse. I think a 12 YO would love this show. I've only seen 1 other falconry exibit and it was very boring - the one at Milendes was not. The backdrop of a castle with turrets & towers is quite dramatic. The Josephine Baker exhibit inside the castle is very interesting, and educating for someone who does not know her story (research it ahead of time).
IRA - glad you enjoyed the dinner & didn't get lost following us to La Maynardie. To us, the setting of the restaurant is idyllic.
Lunch for us is usually a bag of pistachios, or a jambon/buerre sandwich on the way from one place to another. There are scads of pizza places in France.
The Gouffre is unique because it is a rare wet cave. It's quite different from the others - it may be the favorite of your 12YO.
Stu Dudley
IRA - glad you enjoyed the dinner & didn't get lost following us to La Maynardie. To us, the setting of the restaurant is idyllic.
Lunch for us is usually a bag of pistachios, or a jambon/buerre sandwich on the way from one place to another. There are scads of pizza places in France.
The Gouffre is unique because it is a rare wet cave. It's quite different from the others - it may be the favorite of your 12YO.
Stu Dudley
Feb 19th, 2007, 05:10 PM
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<<they release a live white mouse that runs into a shelter.>>
I had forgotten about that, Stu. I don't know if it is the same thing but they had a radio controlled rabbit they loosed from a cage and then a live ferret was released. The ferret tackles the rabbit and the trainer forcres the ferret to give up the lure. Very exciting.
BTW - the birds all have radio transmitters attached to them and it is not uncommon for the staff to have to track one down in the valley. They told us it is common for the neighbors to phone for them to come and retrieve onr of the birds.
I had forgotten about that, Stu. I don't know if it is the same thing but they had a radio controlled rabbit they loosed from a cage and then a live ferret was released. The ferret tackles the rabbit and the trainer forcres the ferret to give up the lure. Very exciting.
BTW - the birds all have radio transmitters attached to them and it is not uncommon for the staff to have to track one down in the valley. They told us it is common for the neighbors to phone for them to come and retrieve onr of the birds.
Feb 19th, 2007, 05:34 PM
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My husband and I visited Les Milandes last year and loved it. Being that we are both in theater, I wanted to see Josephine Bakers chateau. I knew some about Josephine, but the exhibit really was well done and moved me to tears (I can be a bit emotional about this stuff- so, I'm nont saying everone else will be).
Anyway- we had no intention of seeing the falconry show but stayed to watch it anyway. We both loved it. Yes, it is in French. I could understand some but definitely not all...and my husband (who barely understands french and can get bored/frustrated at times because of this) loved it also. Stu and Robjame have already given you great reasons to go.
Regarding L'Octroi and Meynardie. My husband and I don't indulge as often as we would like to in 'serious' dining, but these were the two that we did eat at in the Dordogne area. We great meals at both of them and I had no idea they had the same owners. I didn't feel that one was a repeat of the other. L'Octroi has a bit more of a 'hip bistro' factor while Meynardie is a bit more formal in presentation. L'Octroi is in the city of Sarlat, while Meynardie is in the countryside. Neither one is pretentious and we saw families with happy children at both.
Anyway- we had no intention of seeing the falconry show but stayed to watch it anyway. We both loved it. Yes, it is in French. I could understand some but definitely not all...and my husband (who barely understands french and can get bored/frustrated at times because of this) loved it also. Stu and Robjame have already given you great reasons to go.
Regarding L'Octroi and Meynardie. My husband and I don't indulge as often as we would like to in 'serious' dining, but these were the two that we did eat at in the Dordogne area. We great meals at both of them and I had no idea they had the same owners. I didn't feel that one was a repeat of the other. L'Octroi has a bit more of a 'hip bistro' factor while Meynardie is a bit more formal in presentation. L'Octroi is in the city of Sarlat, while Meynardie is in the countryside. Neither one is pretentious and we saw families with happy children at both.
Feb 19th, 2007, 05:54 PM
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Lex, we also found that La Meynardie and Bistro d'Octroi were quite different in spite of sharing ownership so don't hesitate to try both.
Here are some photos about the places you mention taken during our June trip to the Dordogne:
Photos of Les Milandes: http://tinyurl.com/h8mzc
Photos of La Meynardie: http://tinyurl.com/jd7pd
Bistro de l’Octroi photos: http://tinyurl.com/h6sqo
Here are some photos about the places you mention taken during our June trip to the Dordogne:
Photos of Les Milandes: http://tinyurl.com/h8mzc
Photos of La Meynardie: http://tinyurl.com/jd7pd
Bistro de l’Octroi photos: http://tinyurl.com/h6sqo
Feb 19th, 2007, 06:11 PM
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>>Josephine, but the exhibit really was well done and moved me to tears<<
Yes - me too. History is one of the most important reasons we spend 2 months in Europe every year.
Stu Dudley
Yes - me too. History is one of the most important reasons we spend 2 months in Europe every year.
Stu Dudley
Feb 19th, 2007, 08:11 PM
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Wow! Thanks for all the detailed info, especially on the falconry exhibits. Definitely more than the raptor displays we've previously seen, and definitely interesting for all 3 of us.
And thanks for the info on the Bistro d'Octroi and Meynardie; I'm pretty sure the Meynardie will be our fourth dinner decision.
All of your information is why Fodors is so great - thanks so much!
And I meant to mention about the weather in the Dordogne in May. Our first visit, in 2002, was unseasonably cold and rainy there - we were told it was more like March weather. So it will be nice (I'm hoping) to experience real May in the Dordogne.
And thanks for the info on the Bistro d'Octroi and Meynardie; I'm pretty sure the Meynardie will be our fourth dinner decision.
All of your information is why Fodors is so great - thanks so much!
And I meant to mention about the weather in the Dordogne in May. Our first visit, in 2002, was unseasonably cold and rainy there - we were told it was more like March weather. So it will be nice (I'm hoping) to experience real May in the Dordogne.
Feb 20th, 2007, 06:36 AM
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In very late June '97, we experienced unseasonably cold weather for an entire week. It was rainy every day & we had the heater on in the house most of the time. In April that year, they had unseasonably hot weather.
Stu Dudley
Stu Dudley
Feb 20th, 2007, 10:49 AM
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When I last visited the Lascaux caves in October 2004, I had lunch at LA TABLE DU TERRIOR; www.tableduterrior.com in
La Chapelle Aubareil. Fine restaurant with good rib sticking food and very good selection of local wines. By the time I was done eating I was ready for a nap. However, I managed to press on and went on a great tour of Lascaux II
La Chapelle Aubareil. Fine restaurant with good rib sticking food and very good selection of local wines. By the time I was done eating I was ready for a nap. However, I managed to press on and went on a great tour of Lascaux II
Feb 20th, 2007, 11:15 AM
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<i>The chateau self-guided tour is wonderful but there are plenty of full nude pictures of Josephine Baker. Some would find this embarassing with a 12 yearold, others would not</i>
Our 13-year-old found the overall tour interesting, but I was genuinely surprised by how embarassed she was by the full-frontal nudity. Go figure.
We didn't arrive in time to see the falconry show, but man did we enjoy the views. It's a really pretty spot...
http://travel.webshots.com/photo/295...53249937nVAFpd
Our 13-year-old found the overall tour interesting, but I was genuinely surprised by how embarassed she was by the full-frontal nudity. Go figure.
We didn't arrive in time to see the falconry show, but man did we enjoy the views. It's a really pretty spot...
http://travel.webshots.com/photo/295...53249937nVAFpd
Feb 21st, 2007, 04:12 AM
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Sorry.. made an error in referencing the website.. correct link is www.tableduterroir.com
Feb 21st, 2007, 05:09 AM
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Some lunch ideas in Sarlat for lighter meals are
Bistro de l'Octroi where you can get a salad although we are usually seduced into getting the full meal.
Chez le Gaulois, 3 rue de Tourny ) (around the corner from the cathedral) Salads, sandwiches, thinly sliced ham/meat plates
Le Presidial often has a summer Bistro menu at lunch. They may not be offering it in May, but it's a lovely place to relax, with a beautiful garden.
If you're in Domme, don't worry about eating at the Esplanade, not one of our favourite places, particularly if you don't want a big meal. Just along the cliff, beside the observation area is a cafe with the same view as the Esplanade, with lighter, much cheaper meals.
And if you are in or near la Chapelle Aubareil and are feeling adventurous, rather than the Table du Terroir (which is fine) we prefer Le Bareil) 05 53 50 74 28. This is our favourite auberge, with a setting much more authentic than most. A smallish room, with a big fireplace, great food and very friendly service. It is usually open for lunch during the week and on Sundays, and for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. During the week, there is no choice of menu. You eat whatever they are serving – usually, wine, soup, pate or salad, meat, cheese and dessert for about 15 euros. NOT a small meal, and I wouldn't want to do too much afterward, but still we find it lots of fun.
Bistro de l'Octroi where you can get a salad although we are usually seduced into getting the full meal.
Chez le Gaulois, 3 rue de Tourny ) (around the corner from the cathedral) Salads, sandwiches, thinly sliced ham/meat plates
Le Presidial often has a summer Bistro menu at lunch. They may not be offering it in May, but it's a lovely place to relax, with a beautiful garden.
If you're in Domme, don't worry about eating at the Esplanade, not one of our favourite places, particularly if you don't want a big meal. Just along the cliff, beside the observation area is a cafe with the same view as the Esplanade, with lighter, much cheaper meals.
And if you are in or near la Chapelle Aubareil and are feeling adventurous, rather than the Table du Terroir (which is fine) we prefer Le Bareil) 05 53 50 74 28. This is our favourite auberge, with a setting much more authentic than most. A smallish room, with a big fireplace, great food and very friendly service. It is usually open for lunch during the week and on Sundays, and for dinner on Fridays and Saturdays. During the week, there is no choice of menu. You eat whatever they are serving – usually, wine, soup, pate or salad, meat, cheese and dessert for about 15 euros. NOT a small meal, and I wouldn't want to do too much afterward, but still we find it lots of fun.
