Dordogne restaurant suggestions - update requested s.v.p.
Aug 3rd, 2010, 08:01 AM
#23
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We had foie gras with apricot chutney and spiced apricots. Followed by lamb in a Cahors reduction with a very nice puree de pommes de terre.
Granddaughter had thick pork chop (I think from a suckling pig, but we didn't tell her) with 'coco' beans - nothing to do with chocolate -with Merguez and veg. sauce. Followed by rice pudding/caramel sauce/home made ice cream/popcorn. Adults had chocolate fondant.
The two very small children next to us - approximately one and two years old, split an order of lamb chops and puree - with extra puree (mashed potato) on the side. Apparently they are already friends of the 'house'
Granddaughter had thick pork chop (I think from a suckling pig, but we didn't tell her) with 'coco' beans - nothing to do with chocolate -with Merguez and veg. sauce. Followed by rice pudding/caramel sauce/home made ice cream/popcorn. Adults had chocolate fondant.
The two very small children next to us - approximately one and two years old, split an order of lamb chops and puree - with extra puree (mashed potato) on the side. Apparently they are already friends of the 'house'
Aug 9th, 2010, 02:58 AM
#24
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I'll tell my in-laws about La Gabarre. Might be fun to check out someplace new together.
We've mostly been eating at fetes, night markets, or having heavy aperos at someone's house. I have very few restaurants to report on. La Belle Etoile reservations are this Saturday. (yay!)
We've mostly been eating at fetes, night markets, or having heavy aperos at someone's house. I have very few restaurants to report on. La Belle Etoile reservations are this Saturday. (yay!)
Apr 30th, 2011, 06:53 AM
#26
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Just returned from a fabulous trip to this area. Can HIGHLY recommend Le Grand Bleu - we had a fabulous lunch there (all dinner spaces were booked for the time we were there so we "settled" for a lunch reservation but were far from disappointed!!). We had the 33 Euro menu and it was more than worth the money. The food was excellent, the service outstanding, the waitress and owner delightful and just everything about this experience was first-class!!
Bistro Octroi was a bit less enjoyable. The offerings there were tasty but the choice was a bit limited, the price was a bit much for what we received, but it was still a good choice.
Bistro Octroi was a bit less enjoyable. The offerings there were tasty but the choice was a bit limited, the price was a bit much for what we received, but it was still a good choice.
May 1st, 2011, 02:54 AM
#27
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Thanks. Both are on my itinerary. Grand Bleu is now solid and I'll e-mail ahead for reservations pronto. Octroi is still on but I'll see if anything pops up to nudge it out. After scheduling 5 nights in Sarlat so we can be in the middle of things and not have to drive to dine, I'm finding that it's not much of a gastronomic mecca. I'm guessing Octroi will remain on the list, a good choice is better than a mediocre one. Thanks again.
May 1st, 2011, 04:32 AM
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You are most welcome. From other dining experiences in less "fancy" places I can tell you that you would be hard-pressed to find a bad meal in Sarlat, so that when you write :
*****************
After scheduling 5 nights in Sarlat so we can be in the middle of things and not have to drive to dine, I'm finding that it's not much of a gastronomic mecca
*******************
you should know that not always do you need to go to a very expensive or fancy place to get great food.
May I ask where you are staying in Sarlat? I ask because we were not entirely happy with our lodgings at B&B Cordeliers and I would not really recommend it.
*****************
After scheduling 5 nights in Sarlat so we can be in the middle of things and not have to drive to dine, I'm finding that it's not much of a gastronomic mecca
*******************
you should know that not always do you need to go to a very expensive or fancy place to get great food.
May I ask where you are staying in Sarlat? I ask because we were not entirely happy with our lodgings at B&B Cordeliers and I would not really recommend it.
May 1st, 2011, 06:23 AM
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I'm not a big fan of the Octroi, either. I do love the Vélo Rouge in Le Bugue, though.
Frankly, Sarlat is not a food mecca, and generally speaking the Périgord regional specialties, while enticing, are not something any normal person would want to eat day after day, so IF I were a visitor to the region (and not able to cook what I want to eat right in my own kitchen, which is what I do), I would never be able to roam from restaurant to restaurant day after day eating foie gras and confit and tuffles and whatnot - it's just too rich.
Does anyone(Carlux?) know if the restaurant that used to be called Le Tournesol is still there perched over the river on the bridge at Castelnaud? We used to love to have Sunday brunch there back in the 90s.
Frankly, Sarlat is not a food mecca, and generally speaking the Périgord regional specialties, while enticing, are not something any normal person would want to eat day after day, so IF I were a visitor to the region (and not able to cook what I want to eat right in my own kitchen, which is what I do), I would never be able to roam from restaurant to restaurant day after day eating foie gras and confit and tuffles and whatnot - it's just too rich.
Does anyone(Carlux?) know if the restaurant that used to be called Le Tournesol is still there perched over the river on the bridge at Castelnaud? We used to love to have Sunday brunch there back in the 90s.
May 1st, 2011, 06:23 AM
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FLAME !!
Am I following you, or are you following me?? We are on our way to the Dordogne this Friday. We'll be in Sarlat for 4 nights next week....ending on Saturday (May 14). We'll be there for 2 weeks total.
Am I following you, or are you following me?? We are on our way to the Dordogne this Friday. We'll be in Sarlat for 4 nights next week....ending on Saturday (May 14). We'll be there for 2 weeks total.
May 1st, 2011, 07:15 AM
#32
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>>Le Tournesol>>
I'm pretty sure that there was a restaurant there in June '99 - not sure it is still called Le Tournesol. Also, Velo Rouge was not there in '99 - it was one of our past favorites but it was closed up tight and the hotel had rathar spartan dinner options in its place.
La_tour_de_cause has a B&B just down the road - see if she can answer your question about Le Tournesol.
Stu Dudley
I'm pretty sure that there was a restaurant there in June '99 - not sure it is still called Le Tournesol. Also, Velo Rouge was not there in '99 - it was one of our past favorites but it was closed up tight and the hotel had rathar spartan dinner options in its place.
La_tour_de_cause has a B&B just down the road - see if she can answer your question about Le Tournesol.
Stu Dudley
May 1st, 2011, 07:50 AM
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Reading this with interest, but I think I'll need to keep my reservations with l'Octroi and hope for the best as Le Grand Bleu is not open for dinner on Sunday when we're visiting Sarlat.
Does anyone have any recent experience with Cabanoix et Chataignes in Domme?
Does anyone have any recent experience with Cabanoix et Chataignes in Domme?
May 1st, 2011, 08:08 AM
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St Cirq - Around 2004 or so, Le Tournepique in Castelnaud changed ownership and menu. The new proprietor is a great cook, French Basque, from near Biarritz, but had been running a little restaurant in Vitrac prior to buying the Tournepique. The restaurant now features Basque tapas, and meats and fishes cooked "a la plancha," but also has a traditional Perigord menu with all the usual suspects (confit de canard, foie gras, etc.). We find it to be very reliable, always friendly and efficient, good value and great flavors. The menu is simple, unpretentious and flavorful. The charming hostess and co-owner Antoinette lost her battle with cancer last year and we feared her husband would not want to continue without her. But this year he's back at it, looking a little less devastated than we we left last November.
The setting is perfect, overlooking the Dordogne and with a good view of Chateau de Castelnaud if you sit on the left-hand side of the restaurant.
We just grabbed a quick bite there the other evening - husband had his ever-favorite bowl of Moules A La Plancha (served with a tomato-garlic-red pepper sauce) and his plate of frites. I had Poulet Basquaise. Both just as they should be.
This is not 'gastronomique,' there's no confetti sprinkled on your plate and no spun sugar creations garnishing your gateau basque, but everything is always very satisfying, very well-seasoned. Perhaps a bit heavy on the olive oil, garlic and tomato for some sensibilities, but we love it.
The restaurant's name now is a little confusing, as this winter he began changing the name -- hasn't entirely given up "Le Tournepique" but has added "La Table Basque" and "Chez Antoinette" to his signage. Antoinette was his wife, who passed away last summer.
Hope this helps!
The setting is perfect, overlooking the Dordogne and with a good view of Chateau de Castelnaud if you sit on the left-hand side of the restaurant.
We just grabbed a quick bite there the other evening - husband had his ever-favorite bowl of Moules A La Plancha (served with a tomato-garlic-red pepper sauce) and his plate of frites. I had Poulet Basquaise. Both just as they should be.
This is not 'gastronomique,' there's no confetti sprinkled on your plate and no spun sugar creations garnishing your gateau basque, but everything is always very satisfying, very well-seasoned. Perhaps a bit heavy on the olive oil, garlic and tomato for some sensibilities, but we love it.
The restaurant's name now is a little confusing, as this winter he began changing the name -- hasn't entirely given up "Le Tournepique" but has added "La Table Basque" and "Chez Antoinette" to his signage. Antoinette was his wife, who passed away last summer.
Hope this helps!
May 1st, 2011, 10:15 AM
#35
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SSSTEVE!!!!!
How very funny indeed!! Have a wonderful time. It is a beautiful area. If you need any last minute questions amswered, fire away, as it will be a while before I get my trip report up and running on the board!!
StCirq - I love duck products and don't usually have them or eat them and so I was lovingly overwhelmed by their presence on the menus. However, even I chose at times to just have a lovely salad with cheeses and apples and nuts, or very good lamb dishes as well. There are plenty of other items available, including good fish and seafood for those who enjoy it. I would not know personally whether Sarlat is a food mecca or not, but I do know that we ate very well there, as opposed to our week in Paris previously, which we LOVED but did not enjoy the food too much.....
How very funny indeed!! Have a wonderful time. It is a beautiful area. If you need any last minute questions amswered, fire away, as it will be a while before I get my trip report up and running on the board!!
StCirq - I love duck products and don't usually have them or eat them and so I was lovingly overwhelmed by their presence on the menus. However, even I chose at times to just have a lovely salad with cheeses and apples and nuts, or very good lamb dishes as well. There are plenty of other items available, including good fish and seafood for those who enjoy it. I would not know personally whether Sarlat is a food mecca or not, but I do know that we ate very well there, as opposed to our week in Paris previously, which we LOVED but did not enjoy the food too much.....
May 1st, 2011, 01:51 PM
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Flame 123, in Sarlat we're staying at Bon Encontre. It had good reviews on Booking.com and on Trip Advisor if I recall correctly and looked nice on the websites. I'm a bit concerned about the trek up hill to get back after dinner but that will probably be good for us. Thanks for trying to warn me against a place you found less than idyllic.
I am trying to balance foodie "temples" with some nice down to earth places on this trip as I always do. It proves a bit hard, however, when the majority of places featured on websites tend to emphasize "the best" and often the more expensive. Every so often on a trip DH goes berserk with the fine dining and insists on having a Chinese dinner. On this trip he's going to have a tough time. I did a check on some website and could not find a single Chinese restaurant within 50 km of Rodez where we'll be for 3 nights. I'm sure he'll find one someplace though. Not to worry.
I am trying to balance foodie "temples" with some nice down to earth places on this trip as I always do. It proves a bit hard, however, when the majority of places featured on websites tend to emphasize "the best" and often the more expensive. Every so often on a trip DH goes berserk with the fine dining and insists on having a Chinese dinner. On this trip he's going to have a tough time. I did a check on some website and could not find a single Chinese restaurant within 50 km of Rodez where we'll be for 3 nights. I'm sure he'll find one someplace though. Not to worry.
May 2nd, 2011, 08:36 AM
#38
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Some suggestions of places that we like, or have heard good things about - can't remember now whether they are in earlier posts. I'm sure there are some no-one has mentioned yet.
La Gabarre. St Julien de Lampon.
Le Bistrot d'Epicure - not far from St Cyprien
Bistrot 2 - Monpazier
Le Relais de Compostelle - St Avit Seigneur
Le Petit LEon in St Leon Sur Vezere. Open ONLY in July and August
Le St Martial - St Martial de Nabirat.
All have intersting cooking, more inventive than most. Some (La Gabarre, Le St Martial) have chefs who have trained in very good kitchens, and are mentioned in the Michelin guide and others.
We havent tried, but have heard good things about:
Restaurant du Chateau, St Genies
Jardins d'Harmonie, Sarlat
A word about eating in this region, especially for those staying in Sarlat. You are going to have to deal with the fact that most things close at lunch time, and obviously the best way to deal with this is to join the French at lunch. While there are sometimes lighter meals at lunchtime, most places offer virtually the same 2-3-4 course meal at lunch and at dinner. Take advantage of it, and enjoy yourselves.
It is wonderful to stay in Sarlat - we were there on Saturday night walking through town on our way to see Live from the Met at the cinema - amazing that we can do this! And wonderful to walk through this magical town as night falls and the gas lights come on. But it does suffer from having too many restaurants geared to tourists. You don't have to eat all your major meals there. If you've had a good lunch, just wander around the square, have a glass of wine, perhaps with an omelette, and enjoy yourselves.
I have to say though, that it will be steep walk up the hill to the Hotel Bon Encontre. It's a long way.
La Gabarre. St Julien de Lampon.
Le Bistrot d'Epicure - not far from St Cyprien
Bistrot 2 - Monpazier
Le Relais de Compostelle - St Avit Seigneur
Le Petit LEon in St Leon Sur Vezere. Open ONLY in July and August
Le St Martial - St Martial de Nabirat.
All have intersting cooking, more inventive than most. Some (La Gabarre, Le St Martial) have chefs who have trained in very good kitchens, and are mentioned in the Michelin guide and others.
We havent tried, but have heard good things about:
Restaurant du Chateau, St Genies
Jardins d'Harmonie, Sarlat
A word about eating in this region, especially for those staying in Sarlat. You are going to have to deal with the fact that most things close at lunch time, and obviously the best way to deal with this is to join the French at lunch. While there are sometimes lighter meals at lunchtime, most places offer virtually the same 2-3-4 course meal at lunch and at dinner. Take advantage of it, and enjoy yourselves.
It is wonderful to stay in Sarlat - we were there on Saturday night walking through town on our way to see Live from the Met at the cinema - amazing that we can do this! And wonderful to walk through this magical town as night falls and the gas lights come on. But it does suffer from having too many restaurants geared to tourists. You don't have to eat all your major meals there. If you've had a good lunch, just wander around the square, have a glass of wine, perhaps with an omelette, and enjoy yourselves.
I have to say though, that it will be steep walk up the hill to the Hotel Bon Encontre. It's a long way.
May 2nd, 2011, 08:52 AM
#39
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Carlux, I already have a reservation confirmed for lunch at Bistrot 2 and I've e-mailed to reserve at Le Garbarre on the strength of earlier posts you've provided. And all the others are on my list for the "when we get there" look out. The long walk uphill to Bon Encontre worries me a bit. We will be there from June 2 to 6. If we wimp out and decide to drive into town for dinners will we be able to find parking at a reasonable distance from the center, say 6 or 7 blocks or so?
May 2nd, 2011, 11:27 AM
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Carlux, is Murat-Chez Jean in Pomerade still a good place for Sunday lunch? We had a wonderful experience there 3 years ago -- the best pomme sarladaise we have eaten. I know it is really in the Lot but only a 45 minute drive south from Sarlat. For anyone looking for an experience not at all geared for tourists this will fulfill your wish. We are returning to France this September and tried to fit in a stop there for a Sunday lunch but could not make it work.
We also agree with all recommendations for at Le Vieux Logis (weekday lunch) in Tremolat and La Belle Etoile in La Roque-Gageac.
I only recently discovered Fodors' useful forum and got distracted by this tread. I am reminded of our wonderful 2 week stay at a house, managed by Carlux, in Sarlat. I now feel regret that we not spending any in the Dordogne this trip.
We also agree with all recommendations for at Le Vieux Logis (weekday lunch) in Tremolat and La Belle Etoile in La Roque-Gageac.
I only recently discovered Fodors' useful forum and got distracted by this tread. I am reminded of our wonderful 2 week stay at a house, managed by Carlux, in Sarlat. I now feel regret that we not spending any in the Dordogne this trip.
