Dordogne Markets - Trip Report
Oct 14th, 2007, 11:52 AM
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Dordogne Markets - Trip Report
This is part of my trip report. Pictures are available at:
http://www.travelblog.org/fred.php?id=211226
Dordogne Markets
One of the joys for us is to visit the local markets that abound in France. The colours, the smells, the sounds, all gently assault you as you wander with the locals. There is also a sense of participating in a custom and commercial enterprise that has flourished for centuries. Living in a gite has allowed us to buy foods and prepare them in our own kitchen.
We love the idea of shopping for what you need every day or two although it is hard for us to accept a partially stocked refrigerator. More food in our kitchen than we could possibly eat seems to be bred in us as a sense of security and prosperity. Shopping every day or two makes sense and results in fresher produce.
Markets differ but we have noticed some similarities in the small town markets that we have seen. In Dordogne the markets all have purveyors of foie gras, walnuts and nut products such as oil, regional wines of Cahors and Bergerac, duck meat, cepes and mushrooms, sausages, artisanal cheeses particularly goat and sheep. There are also vendors of meat, vegetables, fish, breads and bakery products. Usually at least one person sells spices of fantastic colours and aromas. In October, flowers are still sold grown in home gardens. Some sellers can be found at different markets on different days.
Prepared foods are plentiful. Huge pans of paella, mussels, and poultry in various sauces make easy and economical dinners - Dordogne’s answer to take out. A crepe vendor is usually present making a variety of sweet crepes of nutella or confiture or fruit and a variety of savoury crepes of any combination of cheese and ham and eggs. Our favourite is emmental cheese and a sprinkling of black pepper. This combination is wonderful. Great vertical ovens roast chickens, pigeons, ducks, and quails while potatoes rest below basting in the drippings.
There is a variety of clothing, new and used, sold, pottery, dishes, knives, hardware, etc. Every market seems to boast a hawker with the latest kitchen implement or child’s toy.
One of the fascinating observations is that customers will stand in line to buy fruit or vegetables or chickens from a favourite vendor while next door the seemingly same product can be found at the same price.
It would be a mistake to think that markets are all about buying and selling. We were frustrated at first as people would stand and talk, blocking the narrow street. Sometimes customers would stand chatting to the seller while a line of several people waited to be served. However we seemed to be the only ones concerned. Markets are social occasions where neighbours meet and exchange gossip or pleasantries. Usually there are cafes nearby where one can join others for an espresso and watch the event.
Our favourite Dordogne markets are St. Cyprien on Sunday, Sarlat market on Wednesday or Saturday for pure size and scope, or Souillac on Friday.
http://www.travelblog.org/fred.php?id=211226
Dordogne Markets
One of the joys for us is to visit the local markets that abound in France. The colours, the smells, the sounds, all gently assault you as you wander with the locals. There is also a sense of participating in a custom and commercial enterprise that has flourished for centuries. Living in a gite has allowed us to buy foods and prepare them in our own kitchen.
We love the idea of shopping for what you need every day or two although it is hard for us to accept a partially stocked refrigerator. More food in our kitchen than we could possibly eat seems to be bred in us as a sense of security and prosperity. Shopping every day or two makes sense and results in fresher produce.
Markets differ but we have noticed some similarities in the small town markets that we have seen. In Dordogne the markets all have purveyors of foie gras, walnuts and nut products such as oil, regional wines of Cahors and Bergerac, duck meat, cepes and mushrooms, sausages, artisanal cheeses particularly goat and sheep. There are also vendors of meat, vegetables, fish, breads and bakery products. Usually at least one person sells spices of fantastic colours and aromas. In October, flowers are still sold grown in home gardens. Some sellers can be found at different markets on different days.
Prepared foods are plentiful. Huge pans of paella, mussels, and poultry in various sauces make easy and economical dinners - Dordogne’s answer to take out. A crepe vendor is usually present making a variety of sweet crepes of nutella or confiture or fruit and a variety of savoury crepes of any combination of cheese and ham and eggs. Our favourite is emmental cheese and a sprinkling of black pepper. This combination is wonderful. Great vertical ovens roast chickens, pigeons, ducks, and quails while potatoes rest below basting in the drippings.
There is a variety of clothing, new and used, sold, pottery, dishes, knives, hardware, etc. Every market seems to boast a hawker with the latest kitchen implement or child’s toy.
One of the fascinating observations is that customers will stand in line to buy fruit or vegetables or chickens from a favourite vendor while next door the seemingly same product can be found at the same price.
It would be a mistake to think that markets are all about buying and selling. We were frustrated at first as people would stand and talk, blocking the narrow street. Sometimes customers would stand chatting to the seller while a line of several people waited to be served. However we seemed to be the only ones concerned. Markets are social occasions where neighbours meet and exchange gossip or pleasantries. Usually there are cafes nearby where one can join others for an espresso and watch the event.
Our favourite Dordogne markets are St. Cyprien on Sunday, Sarlat market on Wednesday or Saturday for pure size and scope, or Souillac on Friday.
Oct 14th, 2007, 12:19 PM
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A lovely report. I enjoyed this and your Paris travel blog so much I've bookmarked the site. It's a fun way to read and see your reports.
I agree that markets are the most fun places to visit. I'm so glad I learned about renting apartments so I not only can look at meat, but actually buy it and eat it!
Thanks for a fun report.
I agree that markets are the most fun places to visit. I'm so glad I learned about renting apartments so I not only can look at meat, but actually buy it and eat it!
Thanks for a fun report.
Oct 14th, 2007, 12:28 PM
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Sorry Ira - Interesting as it is a direct copy from Word and Fodors takes out the paragraph breaks. Funny cause it doesn't happen on other sites. Oh well...
This is part of my trip report.
Pictures are available at:
http://www.travelblog.org/fred.php?id=211226
Dordogne Markets
One of the joys for us is to visit the local markets that abound in France. The colours, the smells, the sounds, all gently assault you as you wander with the locals. There is also a sense of participating in a custom and commercial enterprise that has flourished for centuries. Living in a gite has allowed us to buy foods and prepare them in our own kitchen.
We love the idea of shopping for what you need every day or two although it is hard for us to accept a partially stocked refrigerator. More food in our kitchen than we could possibly eat seems to be bred in us as a sense of security and prosperity. Shopping every day or two makes sense and results in fresher produce.
Markets differ but we have noticed some similarities in the small town markets that we have seen. In Dordogne the markets all have purveyors of foie gras, walnuts and nut products such as oil, regional wines of Cahors and Bergerac, duck meat, cepes and mushrooms, sausages, artisanal cheeses particularly goat and sheep. There are also vendors of meat, vegetables, fish, breads and bakery products. Usually at least one person sells spices of fantastic colours and aromas. In October, flowers are still sold grown in home gardens. Some sellers can be found at different markets on different days.
Prepared foods are plentiful. Huge pans of paella, mussels, and poultry in various sauces make easy and economical dinners - Dordogne’s answer to take out. A crepe vendor is usually present making a variety of sweet crepes of nutella or confiture or fruit and a variety of savoury crepes of any combination of cheese and ham and eggs. Our favourite is emmental cheese and a sprinkling of black pepper. This combination is wonderful. Great vertical ovens roast chickens, pigeons, ducks, and quails while potatoes rest below basting in the drippings.
There is a variety of clothing, new and used, sold, pottery, dishes, knives, hardware, etc. Every market seems to boast a hawker with the latest kitchen implement or child’s toy.
One of the fascinating observations is that customers will stand in line to buy fruit or vegetables or chickens from a favourite vendor while next door the seemingly same product can be found at the same price.
It would be a mistake to think that markets are all about buying and selling. We were frustrated at first as people would stand and talk, blocking the narrow street. Sometimes customers would stand chatting to the seller while a line of several people waited to be served. However we seemed to be the only ones concerned. Markets are social occasions where neighbours meet and exchange gossip or pleasantries. Usually there are cafes nearby where one can join others for an espresso and watch the event.
Our favourite Dordogne markets are St. Cyprien on Sunday, Sarlat market on Wednesday or Saturday for pure size and scope, or Souillac on Friday.
This is part of my trip report.
Pictures are available at:
http://www.travelblog.org/fred.php?id=211226
Dordogne Markets
One of the joys for us is to visit the local markets that abound in France. The colours, the smells, the sounds, all gently assault you as you wander with the locals. There is also a sense of participating in a custom and commercial enterprise that has flourished for centuries. Living in a gite has allowed us to buy foods and prepare them in our own kitchen.
We love the idea of shopping for what you need every day or two although it is hard for us to accept a partially stocked refrigerator. More food in our kitchen than we could possibly eat seems to be bred in us as a sense of security and prosperity. Shopping every day or two makes sense and results in fresher produce.
Markets differ but we have noticed some similarities in the small town markets that we have seen. In Dordogne the markets all have purveyors of foie gras, walnuts and nut products such as oil, regional wines of Cahors and Bergerac, duck meat, cepes and mushrooms, sausages, artisanal cheeses particularly goat and sheep. There are also vendors of meat, vegetables, fish, breads and bakery products. Usually at least one person sells spices of fantastic colours and aromas. In October, flowers are still sold grown in home gardens. Some sellers can be found at different markets on different days.
Prepared foods are plentiful. Huge pans of paella, mussels, and poultry in various sauces make easy and economical dinners - Dordogne’s answer to take out. A crepe vendor is usually present making a variety of sweet crepes of nutella or confiture or fruit and a variety of savoury crepes of any combination of cheese and ham and eggs. Our favourite is emmental cheese and a sprinkling of black pepper. This combination is wonderful. Great vertical ovens roast chickens, pigeons, ducks, and quails while potatoes rest below basting in the drippings.
There is a variety of clothing, new and used, sold, pottery, dishes, knives, hardware, etc. Every market seems to boast a hawker with the latest kitchen implement or child’s toy.
One of the fascinating observations is that customers will stand in line to buy fruit or vegetables or chickens from a favourite vendor while next door the seemingly same product can be found at the same price.
It would be a mistake to think that markets are all about buying and selling. We were frustrated at first as people would stand and talk, blocking the narrow street. Sometimes customers would stand chatting to the seller while a line of several people waited to be served. However we seemed to be the only ones concerned. Markets are social occasions where neighbours meet and exchange gossip or pleasantries. Usually there are cafes nearby where one can join others for an espresso and watch the event.
Our favourite Dordogne markets are St. Cyprien on Sunday, Sarlat market on Wednesday or Saturday for pure size and scope, or Souillac on Friday.
Oct 14th, 2007, 05:13 PM
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Did you see many of those mobile fish vendors that must have 70 different kind of fish, shellfish, crustaceans, etc? I don't know how they could keep all that stuff fresh - but they do. I've noticed that they usually get the shadiest spots in the markets, and also have heavy awnings over their stuff.
The markets in Le Bugue & Cahors are quite nice also. The one in Terrasson is different in that it is actualy on an old bridge over the river.
Stu Dudley
The markets in Le Bugue & Cahors are quite nice also. The one in Terrasson is different in that it is actualy on an old bridge over the river.
Stu Dudley
Oct 15th, 2007, 08:21 AM
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Still More Dordogne Food Reports
This is a continuation of our Dordogne Report
Once again for the pictures, go to
http://www.travelblog.org/fred.php?id=211426
Le Relais des Cinq Chateaux
24220 Vézac en Périgord
Tel : 33-553-303-072
Fax : 33-553-303-008
e-mail : [email protected]
This was another revisit for us from our previous trip. Cinq Chateaux is a favourite of ours but never seems to get a lot of respect. I suspect it is partly because of the location in a modern motel/hotel place although some have reported terrible meals before Eric Vasseur took it over a couple of years ago.
We arrived at 1:30 on a weekday and they were already frantic with a large group of French tourists who, we found out later, were from Paris. They were having a fun time and the wine seemed to be flowing.
We relaxed and had a Kir Royale while we studied the menu. The menu is a bit complicated but none of the items were familiar from our last visit. The appetizers were those puff pastry things and a small bowl of peanuts. I have a theory that peanuts are served at authentic French restaurants, but the puff pastry is looking familiar – they even showed up at Meynardie.
It was lunch but we decided that it would be our main meal and chose an entré, plat principal and dessert. Sandra’s starter of carpaccio with pine nuts, tomato, chives, shaved Parmiagano, orange slice and berry garnish was classic and delicious. Lightly sprinkled with a walnut oil dressing it was perfect.
I had a warm salad with coconut shrimp and a light curry sauce. The use of coconut and pineapple completed the theme. We have appreciated his use of fresh herbs which he grows beside the restaurant and this entré was adorned with chives, rosemary and parsley. The shrimp were cooked perfectly – still barely translucent.
Sandra’s main of scallops were served on a morel mushroom sauce. They were on, not in, the sauce and this is the way it should be allowing you to add as much of the condiment as you want - again, done perfectly.
My dorade (sea bream) was grilled and placed on a tomato based reduction. A phylo sac of cepes and a sushi roll of autumn vegetables accompanied each plate. This was both tasty and attractive.
Sandra’s fraise du Perigord was served with a walnut ice cream in a phylo basket. I decided on his signature dessert of an iced walnut soufflé with noix liqueur. Wonderful.
A lovely Chablis went well.
The delices of homemade nut cookies and truffles disappeared with coffee.
The twelve French diners crowded around us for about five minutes after their meal apologizing for their exuberance at lunch and quite curious as to where we had been in France and how we liked their country. The owner/chef came out and joined the discussion perhaps wary that we were all planning to storm the kitchen.
Price for the three course meal was €27 per person plus the usual for aperitifs, bottled water, wine and coffee. This will remain one of our favourites both for his use of regional foods and fresh and different presentation.
Cooking at “Home”
One of the wonderful thing about renting a gite is having the ability to cook (eat) at “home”. One of the facts is that you can’t eat out every meal, every day – well you can, but it becomes tiresome and expensive and unhealthy. In reviewing gites it would be wise to check on cooking facilities. These vary greatly.
What did our gite in Carlux have that makes eating at home easier and more fun? ... a large fridge with a decent freezer, a stove with 4 elements (3 gas and 1 electric), a dishwasher with tablets provided, lots of pots and pans of various sizes, 2 French press coffee makers and an electric coffee maker and coffee grinder, a huge variety of cooking utensils, sieves, spatulas, etc., decent flatware and dishes and wine glasses and flutes, cheese trays, toaster, electric kettle, food processor, microwave, oven, basic spices, oil and vinegars, lots of bowls, storage containers, plastic and foil wrap, decanters and pitchers and I am sure I have missed other things. Having these things provided may make that bargain gite not so much of a bargain after all.
Le Bistro de L’Octroi (revisit)
111, Avenue Selves
24200 Sarlat
Tel : 05 53 30 83 40
This was a second visit for us to this Bistro. We were meeting friends in Sarlat and this place seemed to fit the bill. As well we had neglected to have the Ile Flottant on our previous visit and Marilyn, and Toronto Fodorite and friend had praised it to the hilt.
All four of us chose from the €18 menu which included an entré, plat and dessert.
Sandra’s starter was an egg poached in a tomato sauce, much like salsa. It was served in a cocktail glass with two breadsticks posing as straws. They got it right with a runny yolk. Mine was a huge plate of slices of pressed duck with balsamic vinaigrette and a petite salade. The sauce was put around the meat this time rather than all over it as was my complaint last time. Perhaps it had been the regular guy’s day off.
Sandra’s small steak with béarnaise sauce was cooked the way she likes it. Asking for “rose” seems to get a result between the blue of French rare, and the dreaded medium. “Medium rare” we would call it. I enjoyed a half pigeon with a vegetable reduction sauce. Both meals were served with a tiny cep soufflé, aligot potatoes, a mini cassoulet and fava bean pods – all very French and somewhat regional.
Dessert was the ile flottant for all three of us. Marilyn was right! How can a place make such a basic dessert better? I don’t know but if in Dordogne, go to Bistro L’Octroi and try it.
This is a continuation of our Dordogne Report
Once again for the pictures, go to
http://www.travelblog.org/fred.php?id=211426
Le Relais des Cinq Chateaux
24220 Vézac en Périgord
Tel : 33-553-303-072
Fax : 33-553-303-008
e-mail : [email protected]
This was another revisit for us from our previous trip. Cinq Chateaux is a favourite of ours but never seems to get a lot of respect. I suspect it is partly because of the location in a modern motel/hotel place although some have reported terrible meals before Eric Vasseur took it over a couple of years ago.
We arrived at 1:30 on a weekday and they were already frantic with a large group of French tourists who, we found out later, were from Paris. They were having a fun time and the wine seemed to be flowing.
We relaxed and had a Kir Royale while we studied the menu. The menu is a bit complicated but none of the items were familiar from our last visit. The appetizers were those puff pastry things and a small bowl of peanuts. I have a theory that peanuts are served at authentic French restaurants, but the puff pastry is looking familiar – they even showed up at Meynardie.
It was lunch but we decided that it would be our main meal and chose an entré, plat principal and dessert. Sandra’s starter of carpaccio with pine nuts, tomato, chives, shaved Parmiagano, orange slice and berry garnish was classic and delicious. Lightly sprinkled with a walnut oil dressing it was perfect.
I had a warm salad with coconut shrimp and a light curry sauce. The use of coconut and pineapple completed the theme. We have appreciated his use of fresh herbs which he grows beside the restaurant and this entré was adorned with chives, rosemary and parsley. The shrimp were cooked perfectly – still barely translucent.
Sandra’s main of scallops were served on a morel mushroom sauce. They were on, not in, the sauce and this is the way it should be allowing you to add as much of the condiment as you want - again, done perfectly.
My dorade (sea bream) was grilled and placed on a tomato based reduction. A phylo sac of cepes and a sushi roll of autumn vegetables accompanied each plate. This was both tasty and attractive.
Sandra’s fraise du Perigord was served with a walnut ice cream in a phylo basket. I decided on his signature dessert of an iced walnut soufflé with noix liqueur. Wonderful.
A lovely Chablis went well.
The delices of homemade nut cookies and truffles disappeared with coffee.
The twelve French diners crowded around us for about five minutes after their meal apologizing for their exuberance at lunch and quite curious as to where we had been in France and how we liked their country. The owner/chef came out and joined the discussion perhaps wary that we were all planning to storm the kitchen.
Price for the three course meal was €27 per person plus the usual for aperitifs, bottled water, wine and coffee. This will remain one of our favourites both for his use of regional foods and fresh and different presentation.
Cooking at “Home”
One of the wonderful thing about renting a gite is having the ability to cook (eat) at “home”. One of the facts is that you can’t eat out every meal, every day – well you can, but it becomes tiresome and expensive and unhealthy. In reviewing gites it would be wise to check on cooking facilities. These vary greatly.
What did our gite in Carlux have that makes eating at home easier and more fun? ... a large fridge with a decent freezer, a stove with 4 elements (3 gas and 1 electric), a dishwasher with tablets provided, lots of pots and pans of various sizes, 2 French press coffee makers and an electric coffee maker and coffee grinder, a huge variety of cooking utensils, sieves, spatulas, etc., decent flatware and dishes and wine glasses and flutes, cheese trays, toaster, electric kettle, food processor, microwave, oven, basic spices, oil and vinegars, lots of bowls, storage containers, plastic and foil wrap, decanters and pitchers and I am sure I have missed other things. Having these things provided may make that bargain gite not so much of a bargain after all.
Le Bistro de L’Octroi (revisit)
111, Avenue Selves
24200 Sarlat
Tel : 05 53 30 83 40
This was a second visit for us to this Bistro. We were meeting friends in Sarlat and this place seemed to fit the bill. As well we had neglected to have the Ile Flottant on our previous visit and Marilyn, and Toronto Fodorite and friend had praised it to the hilt.
All four of us chose from the €18 menu which included an entré, plat and dessert.
Sandra’s starter was an egg poached in a tomato sauce, much like salsa. It was served in a cocktail glass with two breadsticks posing as straws. They got it right with a runny yolk. Mine was a huge plate of slices of pressed duck with balsamic vinaigrette and a petite salade. The sauce was put around the meat this time rather than all over it as was my complaint last time. Perhaps it had been the regular guy’s day off.
Sandra’s small steak with béarnaise sauce was cooked the way she likes it. Asking for “rose” seems to get a result between the blue of French rare, and the dreaded medium. “Medium rare” we would call it. I enjoyed a half pigeon with a vegetable reduction sauce. Both meals were served with a tiny cep soufflé, aligot potatoes, a mini cassoulet and fava bean pods – all very French and somewhat regional.
Dessert was the ile flottant for all three of us. Marilyn was right! How can a place make such a basic dessert better? I don’t know but if in Dordogne, go to Bistro L’Octroi and try it.
Oct 31st, 2007, 08:23 AM
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Bob, I just came across this part of your report and am so pleased that you followed my recommendation to try the ile flottant at Bistro L’Octroi and that you enjoyed it. Ile flottant is my choice whenever it's available because it's gluten free so I've tried it many times over the years and this version is one of the best I've ever had. I wanted to take some home and eat it for breakfast! Next time.
