Don’t Get a Headache in Rome on a Sunday: Adventures in Italy and Paris
May 28th, 2011, 04:28 PM
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Venice Photos, Part 2 (I think)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626702731039/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626702731039/
May 29th, 2011, 05:58 AM
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<<come upon about 20 chefs, all in white jackets>>
how wonderful!
we tried to get to Murano by vaporetto as well and aborted partway through the trip because it was taking so long. I don't remember where we started, but next time, we'll try for the 41/42 line...and ask lots of questions before boarding!!! Making note of the Marco Polo Glass Company too!
how wonderful!
we tried to get to Murano by vaporetto as well and aborted partway through the trip because it was taking so long. I don't remember where we started, but next time, we'll try for the 41/42 line...and ask lots of questions before boarding!!! Making note of the Marco Polo Glass Company too!
May 31st, 2011, 11:19 AM
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(Thank you all for the encouragement. I've truncated this post because so many others have written great details about Venice. Plus, in retrospect, we were severely jet-lagged and I was not in good post-surgical condition - although I did my best to savor every moment.
I will have some stories coming soon about Siena and Rome, though).
May1 - Sunday
BIG Walking Day
Our last full day in Venice - Labor Day, a big national holiday in Italy - museums, public buildings, and other random places would be closed, and now it is Sunday as well. We had known not to go to the Jewish Ghetto on a Saturday, so we hope for the best today and hop on the vaporetto at San Marco Valaresso, getting off at San Marcuolo.
The walk to the Jewish Ghetto is short and full of small details. The poignancy of signs not far from the entrance is not lost on us: “Rio Tera del Cristo” and “Ramo del Cristo.” Still visible are the holes for the hinges of the old gate used for shutting the Jews inside.
The Ghetto area is surprisingly small. The piazza is pleasantly shaded, quiet and peaceful. The synagogue and museum, unfortunately, are closed due to the holiday; it would have been so interesting to take one of their tours. Instead we enjoy cold peach juice at a table on the small piazza. We spend some time exploring - there are some beautiful and sobering plaques memorializing the Holocaust.
*** Switching to a list of memorables here:
- the Kosher Bakery in the Jewish Ghetto (incredible chocolate cookies, .50 Euro (a theme developing here?)
- Fondamenta Cannaregio
- Fondamenta Misericordia (love me those fondamentas!)
- walking, walking, WALKING (little calles, piazzettas, peeking into chiesas)
- Ca’Doro vaporetto to Ca’Rezzonico
- Al Timon, a bacaro. The prosecco came with potato chips (surprisingly good combination) - highly recommend this friendly place. DH had left our little hotel map on the table, and two hours later, they had saved it for us!! Would that happen in a US restaurant or bar?
- Chiesa San Rocco (Tintorettos and more) - Wow!
***Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, the grandest of the grand - (used Rock Steves Audio Guide here). I think the Frari and the area around it might be my favorite - would consider staying in this area next time
- Campo Pantalon
- Campo Santa Margherita - a relaxed place where Venetians socialize, kids play
- Harry’s Bar - welcoming and friendly, but frankly, not that interesting
- oh, did I mention a lot of gelato stops?
**Rosa Rosso for dinner - We are not pizza eaters, but this was really really good! DH actually ate a goose ham and mozzarella di buffula pizza. Excellent grilled vegetables, salad. BEST Panne Cotta with berries for me, Creme Brulee for DH. With lots of wine and bottled water, for two people - under 60 Eu.
- walking, walking, walking through the narrow calles and various campos at night: very, very memorable...
I will have some stories coming soon about Siena and Rome, though).
May1 - Sunday
BIG Walking Day
Our last full day in Venice - Labor Day, a big national holiday in Italy - museums, public buildings, and other random places would be closed, and now it is Sunday as well. We had known not to go to the Jewish Ghetto on a Saturday, so we hope for the best today and hop on the vaporetto at San Marco Valaresso, getting off at San Marcuolo.
The walk to the Jewish Ghetto is short and full of small details. The poignancy of signs not far from the entrance is not lost on us: “Rio Tera del Cristo” and “Ramo del Cristo.” Still visible are the holes for the hinges of the old gate used for shutting the Jews inside.
The Ghetto area is surprisingly small. The piazza is pleasantly shaded, quiet and peaceful. The synagogue and museum, unfortunately, are closed due to the holiday; it would have been so interesting to take one of their tours. Instead we enjoy cold peach juice at a table on the small piazza. We spend some time exploring - there are some beautiful and sobering plaques memorializing the Holocaust.
*** Switching to a list of memorables here:
- the Kosher Bakery in the Jewish Ghetto (incredible chocolate cookies, .50 Euro (a theme developing here?)
- Fondamenta Cannaregio
- Fondamenta Misericordia (love me those fondamentas!)
- walking, walking, WALKING (little calles, piazzettas, peeking into chiesas)
- Ca’Doro vaporetto to Ca’Rezzonico
- Al Timon, a bacaro. The prosecco came with potato chips (surprisingly good combination) - highly recommend this friendly place. DH had left our little hotel map on the table, and two hours later, they had saved it for us!! Would that happen in a US restaurant or bar?
- Chiesa San Rocco (Tintorettos and more) - Wow!
***Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, the grandest of the grand - (used Rock Steves Audio Guide here). I think the Frari and the area around it might be my favorite - would consider staying in this area next time
- Campo Pantalon
- Campo Santa Margherita - a relaxed place where Venetians socialize, kids play
- Harry’s Bar - welcoming and friendly, but frankly, not that interesting
- oh, did I mention a lot of gelato stops?
**Rosa Rosso for dinner - We are not pizza eaters, but this was really really good! DH actually ate a goose ham and mozzarella di buffula pizza. Excellent grilled vegetables, salad. BEST Panne Cotta with berries for me, Creme Brulee for DH. With lots of wine and bottled water, for two people - under 60 Eu.
- walking, walking, walking through the narrow calles and various campos at night: very, very memorable...
May 31st, 2011, 01:41 PM
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Perhaps this is silly, but here are 5 photos from dinner at Rosa Rosso - either because it was that good, or, perhaps we were just enjoying our last night in Venice. http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626723003913/
May 31st, 2011, 03:41 PM
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elnap29..
so sorry about the credit card fiasco...i always call ahead and I would lose my #*&% if that happened to me anyway!!
your report is lovely and I am enjoying it...we have prosecco every Saturday at 4pm...loved your line "it must include prosecco"...maybe it is time to go back to Venice!
And...I always take photos of food...not silly at all
so sorry about the credit card fiasco...i always call ahead and I would lose my #*&% if that happened to me anyway!!
your report is lovely and I am enjoying it...we have prosecco every Saturday at 4pm...loved your line "it must include prosecco"...maybe it is time to go back to Venice!
And...I always take photos of food...not silly at all
May 31st, 2011, 05:20 PM
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Actually, denisea, you are lucky I didn't post more food pics. That panne cotta was so good that I had eaten it long before I thought to photograph it.
And I certainly thought I would be remembering names/brands of prosecco and wine and become this big connoisseur of Italian wines. Hah! Just lived in the Italian moment, I guess.
Monday May 2
Travel Day: Venice to Siena
I’ve mentioned the incredible hospitality of Locanda Orseolo. One example: Alex offered to buy our train tickets for us, so we wouldn’t have to waste any of our precious sightseeing time. For this, he wanted no service fee and absolutely refused any sort of gratuity. It’s simple, he said. I go home on the train to the mainland every night.
We bid our good-byes to everyone at the locanda on Monday morning and savored the vaporetto ride down the Grand Canal to the train station. Here, I was so glad to have only a carry-on, as I could not find any ramp for my rolling bag. My post-surgical arm was suffering a bit at this point, and I wondered how disabled people get around in Venice. Thankfully, DH hoisted both our bags up the steps to the station.
With tickets in hand, it was easy-peasy. Validation in the yellow machine. Find the correct car, then seats. Luggage on racks above. Our seats were singles with a table, facing each other. “This can’t be right,” shrieked another passenger. “I’ve ridden lots of trains. This is TOO NICE for 2nd class!” She was partly right. We’d been “upgraded” to a first-class car, without the service. Nice, indeed. (43 Eu each)
DH adores trains, so he was in seventh heaven observing the long train tunnels and the varying landscape. It seemed like the first chance we’d had to relax. I purchased a cappuccino and a chocolate croissant at the urging of the friendly service car attendant. This was a far cry from Amtrak! In two hours, we were in Firenze.
And, oh, how I must thank Fodorite annhig for the spot-on directions for finding the bus station in Firenze!! As a map person with a generally good sense of direction, one of the worst things is to arrive at some transportation hub and have no clue which door to exit, where you are, or where to go. It can be so disorienting! But, we headed out the side door, crossed the street, walked around an unlikely corner, and allora! There was the hidden driveway to the bus station! 7,10 Eu pp and 10 minutes later, our luggage was stored underneath the bus and we were on our way to Siena! Clean, comfortable seats. A nice little tour of Florence on our way out of the city (which we would have missed if we’d taken the train). 1 hr 15min of lovely grassy green hills, so different from Venice!
We approached Siena, a very hilly town with very narrow, winding streets. The bus stopped a couple of times and people got off. We became a little nervous, because we did not really know where to get off the bus. We knew “Piazza Gramsci,” but where was it? Remember, we had no map. I must have been wondering out loud, because an Italian woman across from me touched my hand and said loudly, “STOP-P!” “S-STOP-uh!” and gestured in a way to let me know not to worry, that the bus would stop where we should get off.
Piazza Gramsci was just a sidewalk island in the middle of the roadway. We still had no idea where we were or which direction to walk, so after collecting the luggage, I went into the nearest Tobacco Shop to find a map. Here we were introduced to the welcoming friendliness of Siena. The owner of that shop was so kind and helpful. He drew a route for us, suggested we might like to walk to our pensione (“It’s a nice walk.” Are there hills? “Eh, not so bad. Well, some, but it’s a nice walk, through Centro Storico.” He walked out to direct us and told us, “Ristorante Guido. Beautiful food. You stop there to eat.” He was so wonderful, I wanted to hug him.
Ristorante Guido was a comfortable respite with a history of celebrity visitations displayed on the walls. I had spaghetti with wild boar sauce (fantastic) and DH had spaghetti with tomato and basil. We continued our walk, with luggage, down toward il Campo and along Via di Citta past lots of historic buildings and under arches, finally reaching Palazzo Ravizza, still inside the city walls. We had reserved a loft room for 2 nights, then a standard room for 1 more night. The loft room was in an attic space really, definitely a basic room, but we knew that. It had just what we wanted: an extremely comfortable bed and a knock-out view of the gardens, the old Siena walls, and the green hills beyond. The clean room had rustic furniture, tile floors, and an odd little side room with couch and tv, perfect for someone less than 5’ tall. But it was clean as could be and we loved it! (65 Eu pp, breakfast included)
(To be continued: Laundry, Dogs, Dinner...)
And I certainly thought I would be remembering names/brands of prosecco and wine and become this big connoisseur of Italian wines. Hah! Just lived in the Italian moment, I guess.
Monday May 2
Travel Day: Venice to Siena
I’ve mentioned the incredible hospitality of Locanda Orseolo. One example: Alex offered to buy our train tickets for us, so we wouldn’t have to waste any of our precious sightseeing time. For this, he wanted no service fee and absolutely refused any sort of gratuity. It’s simple, he said. I go home on the train to the mainland every night.
We bid our good-byes to everyone at the locanda on Monday morning and savored the vaporetto ride down the Grand Canal to the train station. Here, I was so glad to have only a carry-on, as I could not find any ramp for my rolling bag. My post-surgical arm was suffering a bit at this point, and I wondered how disabled people get around in Venice. Thankfully, DH hoisted both our bags up the steps to the station.
With tickets in hand, it was easy-peasy. Validation in the yellow machine. Find the correct car, then seats. Luggage on racks above. Our seats were singles with a table, facing each other. “This can’t be right,” shrieked another passenger. “I’ve ridden lots of trains. This is TOO NICE for 2nd class!” She was partly right. We’d been “upgraded” to a first-class car, without the service. Nice, indeed. (43 Eu each)
DH adores trains, so he was in seventh heaven observing the long train tunnels and the varying landscape. It seemed like the first chance we’d had to relax. I purchased a cappuccino and a chocolate croissant at the urging of the friendly service car attendant. This was a far cry from Amtrak! In two hours, we were in Firenze.
And, oh, how I must thank Fodorite annhig for the spot-on directions for finding the bus station in Firenze!! As a map person with a generally good sense of direction, one of the worst things is to arrive at some transportation hub and have no clue which door to exit, where you are, or where to go. It can be so disorienting! But, we headed out the side door, crossed the street, walked around an unlikely corner, and allora! There was the hidden driveway to the bus station! 7,10 Eu pp and 10 minutes later, our luggage was stored underneath the bus and we were on our way to Siena! Clean, comfortable seats. A nice little tour of Florence on our way out of the city (which we would have missed if we’d taken the train). 1 hr 15min of lovely grassy green hills, so different from Venice!
We approached Siena, a very hilly town with very narrow, winding streets. The bus stopped a couple of times and people got off. We became a little nervous, because we did not really know where to get off the bus. We knew “Piazza Gramsci,” but where was it? Remember, we had no map. I must have been wondering out loud, because an Italian woman across from me touched my hand and said loudly, “STOP-P!” “S-STOP-uh!” and gestured in a way to let me know not to worry, that the bus would stop where we should get off.
Piazza Gramsci was just a sidewalk island in the middle of the roadway. We still had no idea where we were or which direction to walk, so after collecting the luggage, I went into the nearest Tobacco Shop to find a map. Here we were introduced to the welcoming friendliness of Siena. The owner of that shop was so kind and helpful. He drew a route for us, suggested we might like to walk to our pensione (“It’s a nice walk.” Are there hills? “Eh, not so bad. Well, some, but it’s a nice walk, through Centro Storico.” He walked out to direct us and told us, “Ristorante Guido. Beautiful food. You stop there to eat.” He was so wonderful, I wanted to hug him.
Ristorante Guido was a comfortable respite with a history of celebrity visitations displayed on the walls. I had spaghetti with wild boar sauce (fantastic) and DH had spaghetti with tomato and basil. We continued our walk, with luggage, down toward il Campo and along Via di Citta past lots of historic buildings and under arches, finally reaching Palazzo Ravizza, still inside the city walls. We had reserved a loft room for 2 nights, then a standard room for 1 more night. The loft room was in an attic space really, definitely a basic room, but we knew that. It had just what we wanted: an extremely comfortable bed and a knock-out view of the gardens, the old Siena walls, and the green hills beyond. The clean room had rustic furniture, tile floors, and an odd little side room with couch and tv, perfect for someone less than 5’ tall. But it was clean as could be and we loved it! (65 Eu pp, breakfast included)
(To be continued: Laundry, Dogs, Dinner...)
Jun 2nd, 2011, 05:14 PM
#29
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MAY 2 (Continued...)
Laundry, Dogs, Dinner...or HOW WE MELTED INTO SIENA
We did some initial exploring on foot, primarily to find a lavanderia, trying some gelato along the way. Lucky for us, machine instructions were in English, so we walked back to the pensione to get our dirty clothes and some coins, then hiked back to the self-service laundry on a small via just off Il Campo.
We foolishly set up 3 loads (concerned about washing temps and mixing items, I guess - unnecessary). DH read while I explored the neighborhood. I didn’t get far. The restaurant across the street, Il Carroccio, had my attention. It was getting dark, I was hungry, and this place was full of locals inside as well as outdoors. Although I’m not a big meat eater, those platters of “Medieval Appetizers” were very appealing. For some reason, DH balked. Did he have a better suggestion? No. But he did have a list in his suitcase of restaurants recommended by a client. Finally, he relented, but wanted to bring the laundry. Really?? 3 folded loads plus 4 shirts on hangers? Was he kidding??
Now this argument got downright silly. He was being practical, he said. I won’t bore you further with the back and forth, but finally, I said, Go over to that restaurant and look inside. Let me know if you see ANYONE in there with laundry!
We carried our laundry back to the pensione in the dark - in silence. Brisk walk back. But, oh, my, IL CARROCCIO was an excellent choice for dinner! We were warmly welcomed. Nice little table for two next to two college students. The best Ribollita I’ve ever had. DH had chicken with mushrooms. Vegetables. Salads. House wine of course. Aqua Naturale. And a chocolate torte with pera. M-mmm. (Turns out this is a recommended slow food place and was also on DH’s restaurant list)! 46E.
On a chair at the table of the young women next to us sat a perfectly behaved small dog, perhaps a small spaniel. Not their dog, they said. Belonged to the owner. We were there 2 1/2 hours and that dog sat perfectly still the entire time, never showed interest in the food, even though it was mere inches away. Cute as could be. Then, at the end of the night, the owner and a waitress went to the front and began to fill a giant jar with biscotti. The dog’s feet marched in place. Twice. Then...a soft, tiny “woof.” More waiting; the owner came over and gave the dog a piece of biscotti. This was obviously a nightly ritual. We had never seen such a well-behaved dog.
The streets were empty as we walked back to the pensione, but by now they felt like our streets. We couldn’t wait to explore more of Siena, but the next day we had a tour with Luca scheduled.
(And I so regret not getting pics of that dog or that restaurant. But, taking photos is not always appropriate, you know?)
Next up: A Day with Luca and Walking the Roman Road
Laundry, Dogs, Dinner...or HOW WE MELTED INTO SIENA
We did some initial exploring on foot, primarily to find a lavanderia, trying some gelato along the way. Lucky for us, machine instructions were in English, so we walked back to the pensione to get our dirty clothes and some coins, then hiked back to the self-service laundry on a small via just off Il Campo.
We foolishly set up 3 loads (concerned about washing temps and mixing items, I guess - unnecessary). DH read while I explored the neighborhood. I didn’t get far. The restaurant across the street, Il Carroccio, had my attention. It was getting dark, I was hungry, and this place was full of locals inside as well as outdoors. Although I’m not a big meat eater, those platters of “Medieval Appetizers” were very appealing. For some reason, DH balked. Did he have a better suggestion? No. But he did have a list in his suitcase of restaurants recommended by a client. Finally, he relented, but wanted to bring the laundry. Really?? 3 folded loads plus 4 shirts on hangers? Was he kidding??
Now this argument got downright silly. He was being practical, he said. I won’t bore you further with the back and forth, but finally, I said, Go over to that restaurant and look inside. Let me know if you see ANYONE in there with laundry!
We carried our laundry back to the pensione in the dark - in silence. Brisk walk back. But, oh, my, IL CARROCCIO was an excellent choice for dinner! We were warmly welcomed. Nice little table for two next to two college students. The best Ribollita I’ve ever had. DH had chicken with mushrooms. Vegetables. Salads. House wine of course. Aqua Naturale. And a chocolate torte with pera. M-mmm. (Turns out this is a recommended slow food place and was also on DH’s restaurant list)! 46E.
On a chair at the table of the young women next to us sat a perfectly behaved small dog, perhaps a small spaniel. Not their dog, they said. Belonged to the owner. We were there 2 1/2 hours and that dog sat perfectly still the entire time, never showed interest in the food, even though it was mere inches away. Cute as could be. Then, at the end of the night, the owner and a waitress went to the front and began to fill a giant jar with biscotti. The dog’s feet marched in place. Twice. Then...a soft, tiny “woof.” More waiting; the owner came over and gave the dog a piece of biscotti. This was obviously a nightly ritual. We had never seen such a well-behaved dog.
The streets were empty as we walked back to the pensione, but by now they felt like our streets. We couldn’t wait to explore more of Siena, but the next day we had a tour with Luca scheduled.
(And I so regret not getting pics of that dog or that restaurant. But, taking photos is not always appropriate, you know?)
Next up: A Day with Luca and Walking the Roman Road
Jun 2nd, 2011, 05:46 PM
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great TR so far! love your sense of humor... we go in October; can't wait to read more of your trip!
we also loved Locando Orseolo: best B&B we ever visited in our travels (people, accomodations, breakfast amazing)
staying at Pal. Ravizza too BTW: hope to read more of your stay in Siena
we also loved Locando Orseolo: best B&B we ever visited in our travels (people, accomodations, breakfast amazing)
staying at Pal. Ravizza too BTW: hope to read more of your stay in Siena
Jun 4th, 2011, 12:01 PM
#32
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izzofan and Raincitygirl, I'm glad to hear you enjoyed Locanda Orseolo as much as we did. They have really taken hospitality to a most wonderful level, haven't they?
I have decided to share a few pics of Siena; for now, just pics from Palazzo Ravizza for those of you going there soon - for inspiration. We really can't compare it to anything else there, but the location was really good. Just take a look at the views! http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626759946353/
I have decided to share a few pics of Siena; for now, just pics from Palazzo Ravizza for those of you going there soon - for inspiration. We really can't compare it to anything else there, but the location was really good. Just take a look at the views! http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626759946353/
Jun 4th, 2011, 12:22 PM
#33
hi elnap - i just found your TR - great so far.
I'm so pleased that my directions to the bus station in Florence helped - i only posted them because we had found it so difficult to find when we wanted to catch the bus to Siena for a day trip. [BTW, I was in Florence just a few weeks ago and I thought I'd better check that it was still where I thought it was - and there it was, still hidden down that side-street]
looking forward to more!
I'm so pleased that my directions to the bus station in Florence helped - i only posted them because we had found it so difficult to find when we wanted to catch the bus to Siena for a day trip. [BTW, I was in Florence just a few weeks ago and I thought I'd better check that it was still where I thought it was - and there it was, still hidden down that side-street]
looking forward to more!
Jun 5th, 2011, 04:23 PM
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May 3 - Tuesday
Recommend, recommend, recommend!
Our day with Luca was probably the highlight of our trip. www.hillsandroads.com
It was so nice to put ourselves in someone else’s hands and enjoy the day. I had emailed Luca and told him DH was interested in history, wanted to taste a little wine, taste a little olive oil, see something medieval, something Etruscan. We were interested in wine but did not want that to be the main focus. Luca was very flexible, and we had some elaborate plans at first but finally decided to keep it simple.
I must tell you that Luca was an excellent driver...and a quality person. He was kind and thoughtful, very intelligent and well-educated, spoke several languages (his English was superb) and it was obvious he had a passion for history. Spending a long day with him was very comfortable.
We drove through the Val d’Arbia hills and he pointed out landmarks, gave us some historical and cultural points along the way. He was never scripted and answered questions easily. One thing I learned was that the green hills we were seeing were not weeds, that every section of land was used purposefully. It was all crops, especially wheat (sometimes sunflowers or corn). I was fascinated by what I thought were little hill towns. No, that’s a castle, he said. That one is a villa. We drove through some cute little towns. Eh, he said, road village. Another one. Road village. Finally, he said, “In Italy we say a road village is a village with no soul. It has no plaza, it has no soul.”
We stopped in Buonconvento, a small medieval village without cars and entirely enclosed by the old walls. The moat was now filled in with grass and trees and used as a park. We loved this place; I’m hesitant to tell you too much - perhaps you’ll visit there one day and enjoy it yourself.
Our next stop was a winery near Montalcino that made Brunello wine, of course, and also olive oil. This was fantastic! The winery owner spoke no English, but she was a lot of fun. She showed us several techniques for pruning the grapevines and also the olive trees. We toured the cellar and had a lot of laughs talking about the various winemaking equipment. Not high tech, and she had such a sense of humor about it all. She had prepared some food for us (appetizers): focaccia, chunks of parmesan to dip in honey, a wonderful creamy Pecorino, olive oil, and more. We tasted wines, all made from Sangiovese grapes but aged differently. The cheapest version, a table wine, sold for 2 Euro a jug! And it was delicious! They also made Vino Rosso and the certified Brunello. Our time here was full of so much fun and laughter, we didn’t want to leave.
(We decided to buy some wine, although we were told it wasn’t necessary. However, when we discovered how much it cost to ship wine to the US, we just bought 2 bottles to bring home in the suitcase).
Our day included a visit to Montalcino where we had lunch, explored the fortress (great views from the top of the walls), and walked all around the village. We were not interested in shopping or tasting more wines. It was quiet and lovely there, very few people.
Another highlight of the day was our visit to the archaeological site, Roselle, a village of Etruscan origin in the 7th century BC, later taken over by the Romans. Excavations were still in progress. This place was amazing, and there were only about 3 or 4 other visitors that day. We saw and walked the Roman Road! And the chariot ruts were still visible in the stones! The place was huge. Etruscan walls. Roman walls. Roman baths. Basillicas. Mosaic floors. Cisterns. The Forum. Amphitheater. And more. I couldn’t figure out why a village would exist in such a remote spot. Luca explained that it was a port at one time. The sea had since receded, and that was farmland now. The town died when the Pope decommisioned the diocese there and moved it to Grosetto.
After spending nine hours with Luca, we learned so much more about Italy and Tuscany - and we felt like we had a new friend.
Recommend, recommend, recommend!
Our day with Luca was probably the highlight of our trip. www.hillsandroads.com
It was so nice to put ourselves in someone else’s hands and enjoy the day. I had emailed Luca and told him DH was interested in history, wanted to taste a little wine, taste a little olive oil, see something medieval, something Etruscan. We were interested in wine but did not want that to be the main focus. Luca was very flexible, and we had some elaborate plans at first but finally decided to keep it simple.
I must tell you that Luca was an excellent driver...and a quality person. He was kind and thoughtful, very intelligent and well-educated, spoke several languages (his English was superb) and it was obvious he had a passion for history. Spending a long day with him was very comfortable.
We drove through the Val d’Arbia hills and he pointed out landmarks, gave us some historical and cultural points along the way. He was never scripted and answered questions easily. One thing I learned was that the green hills we were seeing were not weeds, that every section of land was used purposefully. It was all crops, especially wheat (sometimes sunflowers or corn). I was fascinated by what I thought were little hill towns. No, that’s a castle, he said. That one is a villa. We drove through some cute little towns. Eh, he said, road village. Another one. Road village. Finally, he said, “In Italy we say a road village is a village with no soul. It has no plaza, it has no soul.”
We stopped in Buonconvento, a small medieval village without cars and entirely enclosed by the old walls. The moat was now filled in with grass and trees and used as a park. We loved this place; I’m hesitant to tell you too much - perhaps you’ll visit there one day and enjoy it yourself.
Our next stop was a winery near Montalcino that made Brunello wine, of course, and also olive oil. This was fantastic! The winery owner spoke no English, but she was a lot of fun. She showed us several techniques for pruning the grapevines and also the olive trees. We toured the cellar and had a lot of laughs talking about the various winemaking equipment. Not high tech, and she had such a sense of humor about it all. She had prepared some food for us (appetizers): focaccia, chunks of parmesan to dip in honey, a wonderful creamy Pecorino, olive oil, and more. We tasted wines, all made from Sangiovese grapes but aged differently. The cheapest version, a table wine, sold for 2 Euro a jug! And it was delicious! They also made Vino Rosso and the certified Brunello. Our time here was full of so much fun and laughter, we didn’t want to leave.
(We decided to buy some wine, although we were told it wasn’t necessary. However, when we discovered how much it cost to ship wine to the US, we just bought 2 bottles to bring home in the suitcase).
Our day included a visit to Montalcino where we had lunch, explored the fortress (great views from the top of the walls), and walked all around the village. We were not interested in shopping or tasting more wines. It was quiet and lovely there, very few people.
Another highlight of the day was our visit to the archaeological site, Roselle, a village of Etruscan origin in the 7th century BC, later taken over by the Romans. Excavations were still in progress. This place was amazing, and there were only about 3 or 4 other visitors that day. We saw and walked the Roman Road! And the chariot ruts were still visible in the stones! The place was huge. Etruscan walls. Roman walls. Roman baths. Basillicas. Mosaic floors. Cisterns. The Forum. Amphitheater. And more. I couldn’t figure out why a village would exist in such a remote spot. Luca explained that it was a port at one time. The sea had since receded, and that was farmland now. The town died when the Pope decommisioned the diocese there and moved it to Grosetto.
After spending nine hours with Luca, we learned so much more about Italy and Tuscany - and we felt like we had a new friend.
Jun 5th, 2011, 05:01 PM
#35
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You might be interested in a few of these photos, particularly of Roselle.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626894633816/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626894633816/
Jun 8th, 2011, 04:23 PM
#36
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May 3 and 4 - Siena
Dinner that evening was at Osteria Nonna Gina, a block from our hotel. The genial host spent much time sitting at tables, visiting with local regulars. There was convivial energy in the tiny place and the food was pretty good, too. We had salads, grilled vegetables, I had meatballs, and DH had chicken cacciatore. As a gift from the host, a bottle each of Grappa and Amaretti was placed on our table. The amaretti was divine. DH’s notes say we spent 37E - we may have overtipped. (Even though we knew better, it took us a long time to handle this tipping thing right. Old habits and all... Oh, how I wish we could do it the European way in the US).
Now, is it possible to get bad gelato in Italy? You bet!
I begged DH to walk toward town to find some (he has to have sorbetto, which isn’t quite as compelling as gelato). It was quite late, and a few places were closed, so we went to Il Campo. Can’t tell you which place, but it was just to the right of a street that led to the Campo, a restaurant. The gelato tasted icy and old and disgusting.
The next day, May 4, we lost a lot of time because we had to change rooms at the hotel. It was a lovely room with the same fabulous view, but it was much much smaller and I thought the bed was a bit harder. The bathroom had pretty tiles and a nice window with the same view. (We would have preferred our Loft Room).
First stop was BINI - a pasticceria on the corner, run by an elderly couple. Luca had recommended it. We each selected some cookies at random, and oh. my. god. Out of this world. Wish I’d written down the names. One was an almond amaretti-type soft macaroon, called something with an r----------. Absolute nirvana. And this began our downfall in a number of ways.
Later that night- and I mean really late - we were surprised to see the man and wife way in the back, baking. We went inside and bought more for our last dessert in Siena.
Other highlights:
*** the Duomo - incredible architecture and art. This was a fascinating visit, although the mosaic floor tiles depicting the slaughter of the innocents (note dead babies) was hard to take. I guess that was the idea.
The crypt under the Duomo was well-worth the time spent. Loved the frescoes.This was only discovered during a renovation.
Duomo Museum and Tower - OK. Lots of narrow steps to the top, and we enjoyed the view of Il Campo, but maybe I’d recommend Palazzo Pubblico instead.
***** SANTA MARIA DELLA SCALA (the old ospedale) - incredibly fascinating and very very special. This was hard to find, the signage was poor. The entrance was across from the Duomo in the corner where the bookstore and another gallery were located. In fact, we had to ask at the gallery desk. The murals depicting the history of the Ospedale were interesting, but the part we loved was two or three floors below. We knew there was an Etruscan museum there but finally had to ask how to find it. We walked through a spooky maze of very dark caves and tunnels where items were displayed individually or in small collections inside lighted cases. There was also a ramp displaying some of the carts used in the Palio. While the Duomo had been mobbed with people, we saw no one else down in the basement of the Ospedale, except for the ladies stationed in various places for security. Everyone else was definitely missing an incredible experience.
I think I would agree with Luca: If you are short of time in Siena, see the Duomo and then the old ospedale, Santa Maria della Scala - the ground floor and all the lower floors.
Palazzo Pubblico - enjoyed the frescoes (including the damaged depictions of “good” and “bad” government) and also liked the modern art display in the basement. We did not go up in the tower since the line was long and we’d already done that at the Duomo.
*** OSTERIA DI TROMBICCHE- ( 66 Via del Terme) - Such a fun place for lunch! Two brothers, Bobbe and Davide, were the young, cheerful owners. Mamma did the cooking. Delicious! All the food was displayed behind glass so you could pick what looked good. Zuppa di Legume, Zuppa di Pollo and Chickpeas with noodles, White Beans and Sausage. Tortellini and Tarragon. House Wine, of course. (20 E with probably too much tip).
GROM - for gelato. This place was recommended by Bobbe and Davide. Excellent. I was impressed that a gelato shop would have COUCHES for customers.
Walking around Centro Storico - those old buildings had some lovely frescoes. But the real treat was witnessing locals playing with their kids in a park and watching a neighborhood group of kids practicing marching band maneuvers, we guessed preparing for the Palio.
** Dinner at TAVERNA DE CECCE- near Palazzo Tolomei -(recommended by Luca) really excellent (37 E - again overtipped) Salads, Minestrone, Bocconcini Pollo with Funghi.
Next Up: WE STEP INTO ITALIAN DOO-DOO
Dinner that evening was at Osteria Nonna Gina, a block from our hotel. The genial host spent much time sitting at tables, visiting with local regulars. There was convivial energy in the tiny place and the food was pretty good, too. We had salads, grilled vegetables, I had meatballs, and DH had chicken cacciatore. As a gift from the host, a bottle each of Grappa and Amaretti was placed on our table. The amaretti was divine. DH’s notes say we spent 37E - we may have overtipped. (Even though we knew better, it took us a long time to handle this tipping thing right. Old habits and all... Oh, how I wish we could do it the European way in the US).
Now, is it possible to get bad gelato in Italy? You bet!
I begged DH to walk toward town to find some (he has to have sorbetto, which isn’t quite as compelling as gelato). It was quite late, and a few places were closed, so we went to Il Campo. Can’t tell you which place, but it was just to the right of a street that led to the Campo, a restaurant. The gelato tasted icy and old and disgusting.
The next day, May 4, we lost a lot of time because we had to change rooms at the hotel. It was a lovely room with the same fabulous view, but it was much much smaller and I thought the bed was a bit harder. The bathroom had pretty tiles and a nice window with the same view. (We would have preferred our Loft Room).
First stop was BINI - a pasticceria on the corner, run by an elderly couple. Luca had recommended it. We each selected some cookies at random, and oh. my. god. Out of this world. Wish I’d written down the names. One was an almond amaretti-type soft macaroon, called something with an r----------. Absolute nirvana. And this began our downfall in a number of ways.
Later that night- and I mean really late - we were surprised to see the man and wife way in the back, baking. We went inside and bought more for our last dessert in Siena.
Other highlights:
*** the Duomo - incredible architecture and art. This was a fascinating visit, although the mosaic floor tiles depicting the slaughter of the innocents (note dead babies) was hard to take. I guess that was the idea.
The crypt under the Duomo was well-worth the time spent. Loved the frescoes.This was only discovered during a renovation.
Duomo Museum and Tower - OK. Lots of narrow steps to the top, and we enjoyed the view of Il Campo, but maybe I’d recommend Palazzo Pubblico instead.
***** SANTA MARIA DELLA SCALA (the old ospedale) - incredibly fascinating and very very special. This was hard to find, the signage was poor. The entrance was across from the Duomo in the corner where the bookstore and another gallery were located. In fact, we had to ask at the gallery desk. The murals depicting the history of the Ospedale were interesting, but the part we loved was two or three floors below. We knew there was an Etruscan museum there but finally had to ask how to find it. We walked through a spooky maze of very dark caves and tunnels where items were displayed individually or in small collections inside lighted cases. There was also a ramp displaying some of the carts used in the Palio. While the Duomo had been mobbed with people, we saw no one else down in the basement of the Ospedale, except for the ladies stationed in various places for security. Everyone else was definitely missing an incredible experience.
I think I would agree with Luca: If you are short of time in Siena, see the Duomo and then the old ospedale, Santa Maria della Scala - the ground floor and all the lower floors.
Palazzo Pubblico - enjoyed the frescoes (including the damaged depictions of “good” and “bad” government) and also liked the modern art display in the basement. We did not go up in the tower since the line was long and we’d already done that at the Duomo.
*** OSTERIA DI TROMBICCHE- ( 66 Via del Terme) - Such a fun place for lunch! Two brothers, Bobbe and Davide, were the young, cheerful owners. Mamma did the cooking. Delicious! All the food was displayed behind glass so you could pick what looked good. Zuppa di Legume, Zuppa di Pollo and Chickpeas with noodles, White Beans and Sausage. Tortellini and Tarragon. House Wine, of course. (20 E with probably too much tip).
GROM - for gelato. This place was recommended by Bobbe and Davide. Excellent. I was impressed that a gelato shop would have COUCHES for customers.
Walking around Centro Storico - those old buildings had some lovely frescoes. But the real treat was witnessing locals playing with their kids in a park and watching a neighborhood group of kids practicing marching band maneuvers, we guessed preparing for the Palio.
** Dinner at TAVERNA DE CECCE- near Palazzo Tolomei -(recommended by Luca) really excellent (37 E - again overtipped) Salads, Minestrone, Bocconcini Pollo with Funghi.
Next Up: WE STEP INTO ITALIAN DOO-DOO
Jun 9th, 2011, 11:31 AM
#37
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I've added a few more photos of Siena to this set, if anyone is interested.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626759946353/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/remnant...7626759946353/
Jun 9th, 2011, 02:25 PM
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Elnap, I had started reading your trip report and than "lost" it. I am so happy that it has been revived. I love reading about your adventures and also really have enjoyed your pictures. Thank you for sharing and also good wishes that you are feeling much better, I sure hope so! Best regards.
Jun 9th, 2011, 03:02 PM
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please keep up the TR!
loving reading all the details (plus taking notes for our trip in October)
we must think alike: not only did we love Locanda Orseolo in Venice (as mentioned earlier), but also plan to stay at Pal. Ravizza : hope we like our room as the hotel recommended a Standard, not the Loft when I phoned...
can't wait to read abt Rome!
thanks for taking the time to do this!!!
loving reading all the details (plus taking notes for our trip in October)
we must think alike: not only did we love Locanda Orseolo in Venice (as mentioned earlier), but also plan to stay at Pal. Ravizza : hope we like our room as the hotel recommended a Standard, not the Loft when I phoned...
can't wait to read abt Rome!
thanks for taking the time to do this!!!
