Thanks so much for letting me know! I'll try this in a few installments... <BR> <BR>First of all – how can I thank you all for your suggestions in planning this trip? Thank you, thank you! <BR> <BR>We started out in Naples, staying at the Hotel Santa Lucia. It was lovely – with a great view of the Bay. We had some wonderful meals, two of those being at A’Fenestella and La Sacrestia, in the hills of Posillipo. I can’t believe how I miss the mozzarella di buffala from this area – there’s nothing quite like it! It seems that Italian waiters find me particularly attractive – my friend explains it by saying that I "glow" when I’m around food! I can’t deny it… We stayed in Naples for 3 days – covering the Archeological museum with a newly opened exhibit, Il Gabineto Segretto; Spacconapoli (the old city) with its fabulous pizza; Vormero – the suburb on the hill reached via a funicular, with the Certosa San Martino and the cameo factories; and the main city itself. <BR> <BR>As we left the city, we stopped at Herculaneum (Ercolano). I really enjoyed it – smaller and more manageable than Pompei. And since Herculaneum was destroyed by mud rather than ash, the town was buried rather than burned so that more is preserved. <BR> <BR>

Part 2 - <BR> <BR>We drove north to Gaeta and stayed at Villa Irlanda. It’s a very nice hotel with a beautiful pool but it was just a little cool for us to hang out there. I would certainly recommend it – and I would also investigate the Villa Maria Teresa in Formia. It’s right on the sea and looks lovely from the road (although I’ve heard that the rooms are a bit spartan). We found two wonderful restaurants in Gaeta – Mansaniello and La Cantinella. La Cantinella is especially charming. The owner, Ugo Cimino, is wonderful and the food was fabulous. We didn’t order -he just did his magic. I would highly recommend it. <BR> <BR>We wanted to go to the island of Ponza but it was Thursday! Now this may not mean anything to you – as it didn’t to me – but the ferry is on a different schedule on Thursday. So we ended up going to another island, Ventotene. It’s atmospheric, tiny, and isolated – a great place for someone wanting to totally escape – from life or the law! Someday, I will get to Ponza… <BR> <BR>From Gaeta we visited Montecassino, the Benedictine monastery nearly destroyed during the War – but totally rebuilt. Very beautiful and serene. <BR> <BR>Stopped in Sperlonga for lunch at La Bisaccia – where we had fabulous pasta (pastificio setaco w/ calamaretti and scampi). The owner offered to give us some of this dry pasta since you can only get it locally. <BR> <BR>We stopped at a roman temple in Terracina, Jupiter Anxurus, way up at the top of the mountain. Not only was there a very interesting temple, but an Italian piano bar. Getting the building stones up there was difficult enough – but that piano! <BR>

Part 3 of 4 <BR> <BR>We stayed in San Felice Circeo for 3 nights at Hotel Punta Rossa. It was great – off the beaten path – although there really isn’t a beaten path in this area… It’s a hotel built into the side of the mountain on the sea, with an outdoor pool and a spa. From this area we visited the American cemetery at Nettuno, Anzio, Castel Gandolfo, and the lovely towns of Fiuggi and Sermoneta. <BR> <BR>For all you foodies, we had lunch in Aprilia at Il Focarile – it was very good but I must admit that usually I do better at the "2 fork" Michelin restaurants rather than the "higher forks"… Had lunch in Fiuggi at Il Rugantino – this neighborhood restaurant (2 forks) was excellent! The food merited photos… <BR> <BR>On the way into Rome, we wanted to visit Ostia Antica – but we arrived 25 minutes late… We dropped off the car at the airport (with all my driving, I’m still not ready to brave the streets of Rome). <BR>

In Rome we stayed at the Hotel Raphael (at the Piazza Navona) – for the 2nd time – and liked it just as much. As you can tell, I’m more interested in restaurants than museums (thus the "glow"!). We had great meals at Alberto Ciarla (Trastevere), La Rossetta (Pantheon), Piperno and Da Giggetto (ghetto), La Terrazza (open air lunch, overlooking Rome, at the top of the Hotel Eden), and Quinzi Gabrielli (near Piazza Navona). <BR> <BR>In Rome, however, it’s tough not to visit some museums – even for me! Went to the Forum again – truly wonderful; the Borghese Museum – the best!; and the Vatican Museum – need a week to see it all… <BR> <BR>All in all – another fabulous trip. Already planning next year’s… <BR> <BR>And thanks again - to all - for reminding me of Fodor's restrictions! Couldn't figure out where my posting went... <BR> <BR>Dona <BR>

It all sounds wonderful and you have my mouth watering. May I be so personal as to ask how much weight you gained on the trip? You must travel to eat as I do.

Patrick!! <BR>Dona, <BR>I love the picture that is created; you glowing around food. <BR>I had two friends that you would love to meet. <BR>One was my boyfriend over 20 yrs ago, the other his brother. <BR>Their parents were from the south of italy. <BR>Both brothers loved to cook and to eat. <BR>And the eating part was no exaggeration!! <BR>We would go out for 3 hr. dinners, and just eat, drink and talk, and then eat some more. <BR>You would have enjoyed them, and they definitely would have appreciated you!! <BR> <BR>There are cameo factories in Naples? <BR>Is one able to go in , do they have hours? <BR>I would love to know more. <BR> <BR>Also, the new exhibit at the Archeological Museum, <BR>My dictionary has *gabineto* and *segreto*, and that would it translate into "secret toilet" or into <BR>"secret cabinet" <BR>What is this exhibit? <BR>Is it permanently installed, so we will be able to see it in July? <BR> <BR>The funicular sounds like it would be an exciting trip/excursion for the children. <BR>Is it like a chair lift though or is it more like a closed in car.? <BR> <BR>Thanks so much. <BR>Of course I have lots more questions, so I will be back to inquire about parts 2,3 and 4. <BR>nancy

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Patrick - While I defer from answering the indelicate question regarding weight gain on this vacation, I'll give you a hint: I was only allowed ONE carry-on bag on the plane... <BR> <BR>Nancy - Naples is "known" for their cameos, although I find finer work in some of the better jewelry stores of Rome. When you take the funiculare up to Vormero, and walk to Certosa San Martino, there are a few cameo places there. And don't worry about finding them - they will find you... They're actually more like stores than factories. <BR> <BR>The funiculare is an enclosed train, similar to the one on Capri. <BR> <BR>You're actually right about the translation of gabineto segreto - it's an exhibit that is recently restored and open to the public. There are guided tours scheduled every hour - you can't do it alone - it's an exhibit of sexual art from antiquity and rather interesting... <BR> <BR>And if your "foodie" friends are single, let me know!! <BR> <BR>Looking forward to "chatting" with you soon... <BR> <BR>Dona <BR>

Dona, <BR>Thanks for your replies. <BR>I guess that the new exhibit in Naples will not be appropriate for 10 & 13 yr olds? <BR>I don't mind them seeing nudity, but things more explicit than kisses maybe inappropriate at their age. <BR>My husband and I ,on the other hand, could take turns and go see it. <BR> <BR>Does Formia have a "big city" feel to it? <BR>We were thinking of staying there also, but after a week in Rome, we may find quiet is better, especially since we live in a rural area and maybe "burnt out" of large crowds. <BR> <BR>How long did the ferry ride take to Ventotone? <BR>we want to take the kids on a ferry to an island while in that area, <BR>thinking more Ischia over Capri, but maybe one of the Pontine Islands would be cool. <BR>Depends on travel time. <BR> <BR>Is there really a piano bar where the temple is in Terracina? <BR>It isn't attached to the temple is it? <BR> <BR>When we are there this summer, we will definitely have at least one meal at <BR>La Cantinella, and will send regards to Signore Cimino, if you wish. <BR>Do we tell him they are from the American woman who "glows" when she is around food? <BR> <BR>One of my foodie friends is married, to my friend Gerda who is Swiss. <BR>His brother, my old boyfriend, wasn't the last I knew, but he lives in Arizona, and I would *not* wish him on anyone!!! <BR> <BR>Thanks for all your answers. <BR>Later I will get to parts 3 and 4. <BR>nancy <BR> <BR> <BR>

I agree with the assessment of the Gabineto Segreto - probably better left to the adults. <BR> <BR>Formia is not a big city - it has a small town feel. <BR> <BR>While the ferry to Ventotene was only 50 minutes ( it's a hydrofoil), I wouldn't recommend it. Too quiet. I would certainly recommend Ischia or Capri for the day - and they would enjoy the hydrofoil ride. <BR> <BR>Believe it or not, the piano bar seems to be part of the attraction of the Roman temple - the strangest thing... it's in a separate stone building - but it really is the only thing up there. It's probably a spectacular view at night. <BR> <BR>Yes - please give my regards to Signor Cimino - remind him I'm the person he thinks looks like Grace Kelly (believe me - it's in the eye of the beholder... haha) <BR> <BR>And thanks for the advice on Arizona! <BR> <BR>LOL <BR> <BR>When is your trip? <BR> <BR>Dona

This is actually for Nancy (stillhere)- <BR> <BR>Cameo factory info: Giovanni APA in Torre Del Greco (Naples area) You do see them create cameos there and they have a showroom for purchases. Don't buy them off the streets - like near Pompeii. I couldn't believe how many we saw being sold in stands. <BR>Nancy <BR>PS - I went with Santa Chiara

Dona,(aka G.K.) <BR>Thanks for the Formia info. <BR>I can't believe the piano bar and the Temple! <BR>Can't wait to see that! <BR> <BR>We will be going over 22 June and staying in Rome in an apartment on Via della Corda, til 30 June. <BR>(we will be there the week after another poster to this site!We "met" each other through one of your postings before you left) <BR> <BR>Then on the 30th down the coast to either San Felice Circeo or Formia. <BR>(Must make decision soon.) <BR>We will stay in this area for 8 days or so, doing alot of daytrips, and then head back to rome, returning to the states 10 July. <BR>We know it will be busy, but needed to plan around the school schedule. <BR> <BR>Having such a hard time finding info on the Formia place, I think I will have to contact them directly. <BR>Would you suggest faxing them for questions, or calling them directly? <BR>I wonder how I could get the # of Villa Marie Teresa? <BR>Call the l'ufficio de informazioni in Formia? <BR> <BR>Thanks for the info, I will be posting more questions on your last two segments as time and children allow! <BR> <BR> Nancy/NTC <BR>Thanks for the name of a cameo factory, and advice. <BR>I think this would be very fasinating. <BR>I know my daughter will enjoy it. <BR>I am always a bit wary of buying things off the street. <BR>I think your family will enjoy the S.C for the time you will be there. <BR>It looks lovely on the site, and gets good reports in the books i have seen it in. <BR>Enjoy! and thanks again for info/tips/advice <BR>nancy <BR>

Villa Maria Teresa <BR>Viale Unita` d'Italia <BR>011 39 (0771) 770 557 <BR> <BR>Cadogan gives it 3 stars

Dona, did you stop for lunch or dinner in Anzio or Nettuno? We're planning to go there next June, and I'd appreciate any restaurant suggestions you can offer.

Topping for Karen

We didn't visit any restaurants in Anzio or Nettuno. Instead, we ate in Aprilia at Il Focarile... <BR>If I were goint to eat in Anzio, I would probably try All'Antica Darsena (Piazza Sant'Antonio), or Lo Sbarco di Anzio (via Molo Innocenziano). Sorry I have no recommendations for Nettuno... <BR> <BR>Hope this helps. <BR> <BR>Dona

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Thanks, Dona, for the suggestions. I wonder if Lo Sbarco has WW II memorabilia.

Dona, <BR>Thanks for the Villa Maria Teresa numbers. <BR>I am trying to find a Cadogan that is more recent than my 2nd addition, as it does not list this hotel. <BR>Does the Cadogan mention anything about the hotel in the way of amenities/pool/beach? <BR> <BR>How did you find the town of San Felice Circeo? <BR>The Sperlonga-Gaeta-Formia area sounds so much more appealing to my husband and me, that we may pass up the beautiful Punta Rossa for something in one of those towns. <BR>Thanks, <BR>Nancy <BR>

Dona, <BR>I love the sound of the name of town, Sermoneta. <BR>What was special there? <BR>Is it a small town? <BR>Would love to hear a bit more. <BR>Thanks , <BR>Nancy <BR>(now at my real address)