Doing Justice to Venice -- How Much Time?
Mar 11th, 2010, 05:24 AM
#21
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Everybody is right on this one. Take as much time as you can in Venice as often as you can, whenever you can.
As for Venice being "internationalized", that has always been sort of the point. It was the greatest trading city in the world, and when it ceased to be that, it became a pleasure resort(tourist destination)for all Europe -- about 350 years ago. The Doges of the past would be overjoyed to see the money rolling in from outside; it was ever thus.
I live in Nantucket, an island that has a lot in common with Venice. We were once the wealthiest whaling city in the world, and we traded with all the world. Our beautiful buildings were preserved because we were too poor to tear them down and replace them. Our economy is based on summer residents and tourists, and the population goes from about 13,000 in the winter to 50,000 in the summer.
But we have a life beyond the tourists. As in Venice, I turn a corner off Centre Street to walk to my house, and I could be a hundred miles from the nearest tourist. We have all those "ordinary life" things that make Venice interesting -- craftspeople, artists, cooks, carpenters -- and we also have the best record in the United States for recycling -- 96%. So there is a lot here, as there is in Venice, for the offseason visitor and resident like Peter. You may not know our real life, but you will know a lot more about us than a day tripper.
In both places it is best to stay a long time, but it is good to come even for a daytrip. Just walk beyond the main streets and meet a different world.
As for Venice being "internationalized", that has always been sort of the point. It was the greatest trading city in the world, and when it ceased to be that, it became a pleasure resort(tourist destination)for all Europe -- about 350 years ago. The Doges of the past would be overjoyed to see the money rolling in from outside; it was ever thus.
I live in Nantucket, an island that has a lot in common with Venice. We were once the wealthiest whaling city in the world, and we traded with all the world. Our beautiful buildings were preserved because we were too poor to tear them down and replace them. Our economy is based on summer residents and tourists, and the population goes from about 13,000 in the winter to 50,000 in the summer.
But we have a life beyond the tourists. As in Venice, I turn a corner off Centre Street to walk to my house, and I could be a hundred miles from the nearest tourist. We have all those "ordinary life" things that make Venice interesting -- craftspeople, artists, cooks, carpenters -- and we also have the best record in the United States for recycling -- 96%. So there is a lot here, as there is in Venice, for the offseason visitor and resident like Peter. You may not know our real life, but you will know a lot more about us than a day tripper.
In both places it is best to stay a long time, but it is good to come even for a daytrip. Just walk beyond the main streets and meet a different world.
Mar 11th, 2010, 09:54 AM
#22
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Ackislander,
The Doges had a pretty keen sense of protecting the unique accomplishments of Venetian life, and exporting their enlightened culture outwards, not allowing the many influences that made Venice a crossroads to overrun the town. So did the European elite that followed and helped preserve Venice as an artistic treasure That's been lost to the big hotel owners and the cruise lines. Their only interest is the money, and they sell Venice to tourists as a mindless entertainment, deliberately.
There was in recent memory a Venetian culture, high and low, with a Venetian dialect, daily ways, local economy, generations of tradition in outlook, dress, craft -- a coherent culture -- that is now, if it exists, invisible. You probably can find some of it thriving around the lagoon, but that misses what contribution Venice itself made to it.
It would be as if, 25 years from now, not 350, people traveled to Texas and all they found was a caricature of native Texas culture for tourists, all the native Texans having gone elsewhere or died off. Most people today traveling to Texas are struck by the distinct outlook of its inhabitants, their sense of history, their way of talking and dressing, their food and other traditions, and the things that drive their economy other than tourism.
That's what has disappeared from Venice. An Italian way of talking and thinking that made it quite a contrast to travel from Napoli to Venice, and not just because the buildings change. Or from Rome to Venice.
Nantucket does not get 20 million tourists per year. Your view of Venice is, if I may be blunt, Pollyanna's.
Here is an interesting article entitled "Venice Tourism Pollution" about the last 30 years in Venice.
http://www1.american.edu/TED/VENICE.HTM
The Doges had a pretty keen sense of protecting the unique accomplishments of Venetian life, and exporting their enlightened culture outwards, not allowing the many influences that made Venice a crossroads to overrun the town. So did the European elite that followed and helped preserve Venice as an artistic treasure That's been lost to the big hotel owners and the cruise lines. Their only interest is the money, and they sell Venice to tourists as a mindless entertainment, deliberately.
There was in recent memory a Venetian culture, high and low, with a Venetian dialect, daily ways, local economy, generations of tradition in outlook, dress, craft -- a coherent culture -- that is now, if it exists, invisible. You probably can find some of it thriving around the lagoon, but that misses what contribution Venice itself made to it.
It would be as if, 25 years from now, not 350, people traveled to Texas and all they found was a caricature of native Texas culture for tourists, all the native Texans having gone elsewhere or died off. Most people today traveling to Texas are struck by the distinct outlook of its inhabitants, their sense of history, their way of talking and dressing, their food and other traditions, and the things that drive their economy other than tourism.
That's what has disappeared from Venice. An Italian way of talking and thinking that made it quite a contrast to travel from Napoli to Venice, and not just because the buildings change. Or from Rome to Venice.
Nantucket does not get 20 million tourists per year. Your view of Venice is, if I may be blunt, Pollyanna's.
Here is an interesting article entitled "Venice Tourism Pollution" about the last 30 years in Venice.
http://www1.american.edu/TED/VENICE.HTM
Mar 11th, 2010, 12:12 PM
#23
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Zepp,
I'd seen the Guardian article about Chioggia, and the lagoon generally - that was part of the inspiration to see Chioggia.
I'm also a bit interested to have a look at the Mose construction sites too.
You'r right about the peace that overcomes Venice at Christmas. It's very special.
I'd seen the Guardian article about Chioggia, and the lagoon generally - that was part of the inspiration to see Chioggia.
I'm also a bit interested to have a look at the Mose construction sites too.
You'r right about the peace that overcomes Venice at Christmas. It's very special.
Jul 29th, 2010, 03:52 AM
#24
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Sorry for the long delay in responding ... I completely forgot about this thread.
Anyway the final itinerary has (rough number, including travel time) 9 days in Sicily, 2 in Liechtenstein, 3 in the Bormio/Premadio area, and 5 (ta da!) in Venice. Plenty of time for an introduction and relaxation.
Anyway the final itinerary has (rough number, including travel time) 9 days in Sicily, 2 in Liechtenstein, 3 in the Bormio/Premadio area, and 5 (ta da!) in Venice. Plenty of time for an introduction and relaxation.
Oct 20th, 2010, 07:43 AM
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Just got back ... at the last minute Liechtenstein and Bormio were pulled and Cinque Terre substituted (for reasons outside the scope of here). Still had the 5 days in Venice which, for me turned out to be a day too much. Maybe because there were no crowds so no waiting in lines? Or that being at the end of the trip the dominance of Italian restaurants was overbearing?
More probably because my interest in art doesn't extend past the top tier and there was a lot of second and third tier stuff which I was able to walk quickly by. Plus a general lack of English text in museums.
What disappointed (and I admit not having gotten to the natural history museum) was lack of any information (beyond the most elementary) about the engineering of the city. Over 95% of the informtion about architecture, for example, is about the decorative aspects alone ... nothing structural. I know this is of limited interest but other cities have museums with loads of such information (such as the London City Museum).
Anyway we ended up quite enjoying Murano, Burano and Torricelli one day. And trained to Padova on another. And other than the minor grumbles above, we loved every minute. Waking up at 02.15 the last day to be able to get to the airport on time was fun, too!
More probably because my interest in art doesn't extend past the top tier and there was a lot of second and third tier stuff which I was able to walk quickly by. Plus a general lack of English text in museums.
What disappointed (and I admit not having gotten to the natural history museum) was lack of any information (beyond the most elementary) about the engineering of the city. Over 95% of the informtion about architecture, for example, is about the decorative aspects alone ... nothing structural. I know this is of limited interest but other cities have museums with loads of such information (such as the London City Museum).
Anyway we ended up quite enjoying Murano, Burano and Torricelli one day. And trained to Padova on another. And other than the minor grumbles above, we loved every minute. Waking up at 02.15 the last day to be able to get to the airport on time was fun, too!
Oct 22nd, 2010, 04:19 AM
#28
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I've so far spent 6 weeks in Venice (over 5 trips) and feel I've hardly scratched the surface, but each time I get more out of it. We hope to live there one day.
Even in June we find you only have to go one or two alleys off the most crowded areas to find peace and quiet, and it's easy to avoid the most crowded areas altogether.
Do go back - you just need to relax into it !
Even in June we find you only have to go one or two alleys off the most crowded areas to find peace and quiet, and it's easy to avoid the most crowded areas altogether.
Do go back - you just need to relax into it !
Oct 26th, 2010, 04:35 AM
#29
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Relaxation is overrated. Most of the time when we travel we like the hustle and bustle of a vibrant city. We get to relax enough at home so I hate spending valuable away time on a beach or deep in the woods. But that's not to say a relaxing cocktail and dinner in a scenic location is not appreciated.
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