dark bars?"real ireland
#2
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It is really easy no matter where you go in ireland to find pubs and attractions that are not frequented by the tourists. I recommend you visit the small towns not usually listed on the tourist maps for a taste of real irish pubs. The pub on aran island is great!
#5
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I haven't heard of a bar in a castle as of yet but I am sure there is one! In Dublin your best bets are:<BR><BR>Mulligans on Poobeg Street - Really old pub and gets busy on the weekend evenings with a mix of old timers and students. <BR><BR>Off Grafton Street:<BR>O'Neills - Suffolk Street<BR>Keogh's - South Anne Street<BR><BR>Merrion Street<BR>O'Donohues (dirty (Not really dirty!) old pub with traditional music)<BR>Dohney and Nesbitt's - They still have a snug at the front and beside the bar<BR><BR><BR>Smithfield:<BR>The Cobblestone Pub - If you are serious about traditionl Music they sell tickets for the room upstairs and many good musicians play here. On the ground floor bar there is always someone playing music as well and it's full of locals, courts workers and a general mix of people. I really like it.<BR><BR>In the countryside just pick a place in any small town. Just a hint...if they serve "irish Stew" it's probably frequented by tourists. It's rarely on the menu in an local Irish bar.<BR><BR>Have fun<BR>
#6
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if you are going during the good weather or summer, it is hard to avoid tourists even in the small towns. if you want Irish spirit, find the tourist office and ask about a bar having a 'kailey' (god knows how to spell in gaelic, but I sure don't). that will get you to a lively spot-just avoid a cabaret since that is aimed at tourists. as for deep heritage, a bar is a bar and some are more lively than others. If you envision yourself in the snug listening to somebody praising the boys of '48 (1748 that would have been) that probably w9on't happen. just relax and have a smithwicks for me.
#7
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I really had a good time at Gus O'Connors in Doolin. Yes, it's a really well known pub that's frequented by tourists, but on the night I went, there were many locals as well (some were musicians who had the night off and wanted to just come in and listen).<BR><BR>If you really don't want to be with tourists, here's a sign to look for: If there's a singer, and he asks the group to follow along with the chorus and you get silence in the room, it's filled with tourists.
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#8
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Have to disagree with Paul. Using my criteria (mismatched furniture, cracked linoleum, and no neon shamrocks), we were the only non-Irish in our chosen pubs on 15 of the 18 nights we spent in Ireland in July. You can absolutely find small towns that are bypassed by tourists.<BR> As to asking about a scheduled ceili at a tourist office...well, that wasn't exactly what we were looking for. We preferred the more spontaneous 'sessions' that happen in pubs across the country when a few musicians happen by with their instruments.
#9
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Dear Periac,<BR><BR>Pete McCarthy, author of the popular and very entertaining book, MCarthy's Bar, advised against patronizing any pubs that feature Celtic artwork. These, he suggests, would be inauthentic and geared mainly to tourists. You might want to consider in your search for the "real Ireland."<BR><BR>Best of luck.




