Dalmatian Island Hopping
#1
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Dalmatian Island Hopping
My husband and I are planning to go to the Dalmatian Coast the last week of June for 2 weeks. We would like to see some of the islands and have read that sailing is the most convenient way to do so. However, the idea of sleeping on a boat does not appeal to me. Is it possibe to charter a sailboat for transportation but spend the night in hotels? Or are we better picking one or two islands as our base and then exploring from there on day trips?
I've also read that the high speed catamarans are a good option for getting around. How well does that work with suitcases, however?
Thanks for any advice you can give.
I've also read that the high speed catamarans are a good option for getting around. How well does that work with suitcases, however?
Thanks for any advice you can give.
#2
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Croatia has a very extensive and well run ferry infrastructure and you will have no troubles getting to any of the islands you are probably considering. We had a car during our stay, and it was quite convenient to take that along on all our island stays (Hvar, Korcula, Pag, Cres, and a few others). We didn't have reservations for any either, but it was May. We simply showed up an hour before launch, got our ticket, and got in line. Late June is probably a different story, but a little advance planning will go a long ways.
If you're into sailing, Croatia is one of the most popular charter destinations in the world; but based on your description, it doesn't sound like that's what you're looking for.
You're going to love it.
Regards, Bruce
Croatia Travel Photos -- http://www.brucegcollier.com/galleri...level2_all.htm
If you're into sailing, Croatia is one of the most popular charter destinations in the world; but based on your description, it doesn't sound like that's what you're looking for.
You're going to love it.
Regards, Bruce
Croatia Travel Photos -- http://www.brucegcollier.com/galleri...level2_all.htm
#3
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The other thing is that if you really do intend to island hop in a sailboat, you will be spending much of your time at sea, not enjoying the islands. The fast ferry from Split to Hvar, for example takes less than two hours. Depending on the wind, it might take you all day in a sailboat.
One other factor is that the harbors in the Dalmatian islands are really crowded now. Many years ago, when I cruised there, one could just pull in along a quai and tie up for the night. When we were there a couple of years ago it was a sight watching the yachts jostle for the few mooring buoys in Hvar. All of the space at the quai was taken up by commercial boats. Unless one gets in very early in the afternoon, one has to find a place to anchor, making it difficult to get ashore to see the island or eat in restaurants.
I'd suggest you take the ferries and rent a sailboat for a day or two, if you really want to sail in those lovely waters.
Have a great trip. You will love Croatia!
One other factor is that the harbors in the Dalmatian islands are really crowded now. Many years ago, when I cruised there, one could just pull in along a quai and tie up for the night. When we were there a couple of years ago it was a sight watching the yachts jostle for the few mooring buoys in Hvar. All of the space at the quai was taken up by commercial boats. Unless one gets in very early in the afternoon, one has to find a place to anchor, making it difficult to get ashore to see the island or eat in restaurants.
I'd suggest you take the ferries and rent a sailboat for a day or two, if you really want to sail in those lovely waters.
Have a great trip. You will love Croatia!
#4
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excellent advice from bg and nuke. i also found the harbours to be overcrowded (and this was late sept). i witnessed two stressful and unpleasant situations over this problem.
the sailing is great though, so do sail if this is how you want to go (but it doesn't sound like you really care too much about this aspect). if you do go this way, it is no problem to stay in a hotel instead of sleeping on the boat...many do this at least for some nights.
there is no problem with cases on board the ferries or cats. many people will have them.
the sailing is great though, so do sail if this is how you want to go (but it doesn't sound like you really care too much about this aspect). if you do go this way, it is no problem to stay in a hotel instead of sleeping on the boat...many do this at least for some nights.
there is no problem with cases on board the ferries or cats. many people will have them.
#5
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Thanks all for the advice! Based on what you've said, I'm leaning towards staying in Hvar for a night or two and visiting Vis and possibly Brac from there as well as looking into sailing around a bit on a day trip. Is it necessary to book the day sailing in advance? Also, is there anything to recommend Brac other than the one beach? I'm from Miami so the beach sitting does not appeal to me as much as the charming towns.
Also, assuming we fly into Split, would you overnight in Split or Trogir?
Thanks again!
Also, assuming we fly into Split, would you overnight in Split or Trogir?
Thanks again!
#6
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I'd choose Trogir to overnight. It is actually closer to the airport than Split, and is a nice and interesting town. It only takes a half hour to get to Split by bus from Trogir. You could do some touristy things in Split in the morning, even dragging your luggage around, and then take an afternoon catamaran ferry to Hvar town. It is a real thrill to pull into Hvar town from the sea. The city walls climbing up the mountain have to be seen to be believed.
#7
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OK- one more question. What's the luggage situation on the high speed catamarans? I am in my 40's and not a backpacker- more of a luggage-on-wheels type. Does this work out on this type of transportation?
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It will work out. The catamaran has two decks, quite a large and modern vessel. When you board, walk up a gangplank - it will be a crush, the orderly line concept has not caught on here, have your tickets checked, and enter the boat.
You will see big racks/bins right by the steps to the upper deck, in which to dump your luggage. One of you take care of the luggage, while the other hustles to the upper deck to score seats by the windows, shady side, if possible.
We have never had a problem with missing luggage, but it wouldn't hurt to check on it at intermediate ports, just in case.
Enjoy!
You will see big racks/bins right by the steps to the upper deck, in which to dump your luggage. One of you take care of the luggage, while the other hustles to the upper deck to score seats by the windows, shady side, if possible.
We have never had a problem with missing luggage, but it wouldn't hurt to check on it at intermediate ports, just in case.
Enjoy!
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Yours sounds like what I am planning and same concerns. Did you look at any of the small cruise ships like Monet or Windsurf? Have you made any decisions re: islands to stay on? We are also considering going for 2 wks at the end of June. We are well traveled and do not like the idea of being stuck on a boat!
#11
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Sailing is for sailors and the extremely wealthy--if you are neither, use the cats and ferries and see the islands. You'll get more out of it. The ferries always gave me enough of a sea "fix." Amazing views!
Though Brac has its charms, it is not one of the highlights of Dalmatia. It feels like a suburb of Split is some respects. There are some tiny towns with a few interesting churches. The highlight other than the beach (it is a cool beach, especially viewed from the mt above) is the Desert Blaca monastery--which I was unable to visit. The town of Bol has a resort-town feel, not like the other towns you'll see recommended.
Vis deserves a stay. It is small, and it's best to have a car to get around, but it is gorgeous.
The appeal of the beaches is the clear water (due to the rocks) and the joy of finding your own secluded cove.
Pack light--in June you won't need much anyway. But the ferry docks are usually very close to the bus stops. As others said, no problem on the ferries with luggage.
Day trips are not always possible due to the ferry schedules. I found it easier to move along. A recommended itinerary is Dubrovnik-Korcula-Hvar-Split/Trogir, as this follows the ferry schedule and hits the highlights, with great scenery in between.
As you have already discovered Vis, I highly recommend it. You may have to get there via Split, but there are sometimes ferries from Hvar directly.
Though Brac has its charms, it is not one of the highlights of Dalmatia. It feels like a suburb of Split is some respects. There are some tiny towns with a few interesting churches. The highlight other than the beach (it is a cool beach, especially viewed from the mt above) is the Desert Blaca monastery--which I was unable to visit. The town of Bol has a resort-town feel, not like the other towns you'll see recommended.
Vis deserves a stay. It is small, and it's best to have a car to get around, but it is gorgeous.
The appeal of the beaches is the clear water (due to the rocks) and the joy of finding your own secluded cove.
Pack light--in June you won't need much anyway. But the ferry docks are usually very close to the bus stops. As others said, no problem on the ferries with luggage.
Day trips are not always possible due to the ferry schedules. I found it easier to move along. A recommended itinerary is Dubrovnik-Korcula-Hvar-Split/Trogir, as this follows the ferry schedule and hits the highlights, with great scenery in between.
As you have already discovered Vis, I highly recommend it. You may have to get there via Split, but there are sometimes ferries from Hvar directly.
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Thanks for all the good info, yorkshire and others. Now I am wondering about seeing the rest of Croatia, like Lake Bled, Zagreb, Pliv. Natl Park? Have been told driving is quite difficult due to poor roads & drivers, esp on the road to Split. If that true? Is it worse than Italy? Is car rental difficult? Thanks
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Well, Lake Bled is in Slovenia, so if you rent a car and want to drive across the border, you'll have to make sure that is allowed.
I have always used buses, but the driving conditions are fine. Along the coast there can be traffic and road work (which I think may be finished), and if you are nervous about curvy mountainous roads it may be a little hairy, but plenty of people who post here have no troubles. My only advice would be to pass deliberately--no hesitation allowed.
I have always used buses, but the driving conditions are fine. Along the coast there can be traffic and road work (which I think may be finished), and if you are nervous about curvy mountainous roads it may be a little hairy, but plenty of people who post here have no troubles. My only advice would be to pass deliberately--no hesitation allowed.
#14
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I'm with Yorkshire; take the bus. I would much rather enjoy the spectacular scenery from a comfortable seat in a modern coach than be behind the wheel on the road from Split to Dubrovnik.
The driver MUST give all of his attention to the road, and NONE to the scenery, or nobody will enjoy the trip.
The driver MUST give all of his attention to the road, and NONE to the scenery, or nobody will enjoy the trip.
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