Croatia Itinerary - First Visit
Dec 11th, 2009, 08:43 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Croatia Itinerary - First Visit
I based my tentative itinerary and accommodations below after reading Fodor's Forum on Croatia. We are celebrating our 20th anniversary. Not sure if I am realistic on the number of days I have allotted for each town as a base and day trips. Your feedback is appreciated.
3/26 - arrive Zagreb (any suggestions on mid-priced accommodations?)
Is Rovinj too much of a detour with this itinerary?
3/28 - Plitvice Nat'l Park (any suggestions on mid-priced accommodations?)
3/29 - Stay in Split or Trogir? (Hotel Tragos, Villa Anna or Villa Varos?)
day trip to Brac, Vela Luka, Diocletian Palace
4/1 - Hvar - (Apt Dujmovic?)
day trip or stay in Korcula? (Villa Depolo?)
4/5 Dubrovnik (Karmen Apts?)
day trip to Mljet?
4/8 - travel back to LAX
3/26 - arrive Zagreb (any suggestions on mid-priced accommodations?)
Is Rovinj too much of a detour with this itinerary?
3/28 - Plitvice Nat'l Park (any suggestions on mid-priced accommodations?)
3/29 - Stay in Split or Trogir? (Hotel Tragos, Villa Anna or Villa Varos?)
day trip to Brac, Vela Luka, Diocletian Palace
4/1 - Hvar - (Apt Dujmovic?)
day trip or stay in Korcula? (Villa Depolo?)
4/5 Dubrovnik (Karmen Apts?)
day trip to Mljet?
4/8 - travel back to LAX
Dec 11th, 2009, 10:15 AM
#2
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi, gammy02 -
> Is Rovinj too much of a detour with this itinerary?
Rovinj is lovely, but I believe it would mean about 8 hours of driving to get there and back. Zagreb itself has a lot to offer, and remember that you'll probably be dealing with jet lag during your time there. BTW, many things in Zagreb close early on Saturdays, so keep that in mind when planning your time there.
> Stay in Split or Trogir?
I stayed in both and enjoyed both for very different reasons. I found Split to be much more dynamic and varied. In contrast, Trogir was small and charming and filled with amazing stonework.
> day trip to . . . Vela Luka
Really? I spent a few hours in Vela Luka while awaiting a ferry. I wouldn't have thought it worth a day trip, particularly when there is so much to enjoy in both Split and Trogir.
> day trip or stay in Korcula?
I stayed overnight in Korcula, and enjoyed seeing it by both daylight and in the evening. BUT I don't mind changing hotels frequently, and many people do. If you can be there on an evening when the moresca is performed, it would be worth considering. BTW, if you do plan to visit Vela Luka, you might consider doing so when you go to Korcula Town rather than as a separate day trip to the same island.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Croatia and hope you do, too! Hope that helps.
> Is Rovinj too much of a detour with this itinerary?
Rovinj is lovely, but I believe it would mean about 8 hours of driving to get there and back. Zagreb itself has a lot to offer, and remember that you'll probably be dealing with jet lag during your time there. BTW, many things in Zagreb close early on Saturdays, so keep that in mind when planning your time there.
> Stay in Split or Trogir?
I stayed in both and enjoyed both for very different reasons. I found Split to be much more dynamic and varied. In contrast, Trogir was small and charming and filled with amazing stonework.
> day trip to . . . Vela Luka
Really? I spent a few hours in Vela Luka while awaiting a ferry. I wouldn't have thought it worth a day trip, particularly when there is so much to enjoy in both Split and Trogir.
> day trip or stay in Korcula?
I stayed overnight in Korcula, and enjoyed seeing it by both daylight and in the evening. BUT I don't mind changing hotels frequently, and many people do. If you can be there on an evening when the moresca is performed, it would be worth considering. BTW, if you do plan to visit Vela Luka, you might consider doing so when you go to Korcula Town rather than as a separate day trip to the same island.
I thoroughly enjoyed my time in Croatia and hope you do, too! Hope that helps.
Dec 11th, 2009, 10:16 AM
#3
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 962
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It looks like you may have to choose between Rovinj and Korcula. If you choose to go to Rovinj, you'll want to take a day from between the Hvar-Dubrovnik part.
If you rent a car in Zagreb, Plitvice could be a day trip.
This is a fast pace, but not unreasonable if you like that pace.
If you rent a car in Zagreb, Plitvice could be a day trip.
This is a fast pace, but not unreasonable if you like that pace.
Dec 11th, 2009, 10:24 AM
#4
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Zagreb is nice but it's small and you can easily see all of it in a day or even a couple of hours.
I'd definitely recommend staying in Split. I'd also recommend that you stay as close to the old town as you can. Outside the center it's just another city but the Diocletian Palace and the old town was one of the highlights of our whole trip.
I'd say that Rovinj is too far for the amount of time you have. You could do it, it's 3 hours on the toll highway, but that's a really long drive for a day trip. And while Rovinj is beautiful, it isn't worth that kind of strain. I'd spend the time exploring the coast closer to Split and Dubrovnik.
Hope you have a good time!
I'd definitely recommend staying in Split. I'd also recommend that you stay as close to the old town as you can. Outside the center it's just another city but the Diocletian Palace and the old town was one of the highlights of our whole trip.
I'd say that Rovinj is too far for the amount of time you have. You could do it, it's 3 hours on the toll highway, but that's a really long drive for a day trip. And while Rovinj is beautiful, it isn't worth that kind of strain. I'd spend the time exploring the coast closer to Split and Dubrovnik.
Hope you have a good time!
Dec 11th, 2009, 11:12 AM
#5
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
> Zagreb is nice but it's small and you can easily see all of it in a day or even a couple of hours.
I respectfully disagree. I spent 2.5 days there and did not see everything I would have liked to see! I think it really depends on what you want to see and experience.
I respectfully disagree. I spent 2.5 days there and did not see everything I would have liked to see! I think it really depends on what you want to see and experience.
Dec 11th, 2009, 12:32 PM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not having been there, I was afraid that Rovinj may be too far and you all just confirmed this. I have no feel of the distance to any of this places yet.
I'm thinking of renting a car from Zagreb to Plitvice to Split and return the car there. Then take buses and ferries for the remaining days. Or should we rely on public transportation for the whole trip?
I'm thinking of renting a car from Zagreb to Plitvice to Split and return the car there. Then take buses and ferries for the remaining days. Or should we rely on public transportation for the whole trip?
Dec 11th, 2009, 12:38 PM
#7
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
> I have no feel of the distance to any of this places yet.
You might find viamichelin useful:
http://www.viamichelin.com/viamichel...MaHomePage.htm
> I'm thinking of renting a car from Zagreb to Plitvice to Split and return the car there. Then take buses and ferries for the remaining days. Or should we rely on public transportation for the whole trip?
Having a car will likely simplify your visit to Plitvice. You can take a bus there, but if the information I read before my trip was correct, it can be difficult to get a bus when you are ready to leave the area.
For the rest of your trip, you can probably rely on public transportation, but do check the ferry schedules and bus schedules to make sure they suit your needs.
You might find viamichelin useful:
http://www.viamichelin.com/viamichel...MaHomePage.htm
> I'm thinking of renting a car from Zagreb to Plitvice to Split and return the car there. Then take buses and ferries for the remaining days. Or should we rely on public transportation for the whole trip?
Having a car will likely simplify your visit to Plitvice. You can take a bus there, but if the information I read before my trip was correct, it can be difficult to get a bus when you are ready to leave the area.
For the rest of your trip, you can probably rely on public transportation, but do check the ferry schedules and bus schedules to make sure they suit your needs.
Dec 12th, 2009, 02:41 PM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, hayestrip. I think we will rent a car from Zagreb to Plitvice and return the car in Split (if that is allowed), then take buses or ferries to the rest of the towns/islands.
To you, christcruz, and kja -- many thanks for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it. I can now firm our itinerary and reservations. If you all have feedback on the accommodations I listed above -- that would greatly help as well. If not - you've already helped more than you know.
I'd appreciate your 2cents on the accommodations I've listed above.
To you, christcruz, and kja -- many thanks for taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it. I can now firm our itinerary and reservations. If you all have feedback on the accommodations I listed above -- that would greatly help as well. If not - you've already helped more than you know.
I'd appreciate your 2cents on the accommodations I've listed above.
Dec 12th, 2009, 07:56 PM
#11
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 962
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Since you're skipping Rovinj, consider an overnight in Korcula. It will depend on the ferry schedules, if this works out for you. Korcula is different from Hvar and worth the time. We stayed next door to Villa Depolo. It's a great location, almost in town and across from the water but still quiet.
Dec 13th, 2009, 08:09 AM
#12
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
According to Michelin, it takes 3 hours 18 minutes to drive from Zagreb to Rovinj. We drove from Plitvice to Rovinj in an afternoon (including a long, unintended detour through Rijeka). So the distances are not that huge. And the tollroads are great. But you need some time in Istria to enjoy it. A compromise might be to base in Opatija or thereabouts and tour inland from there.
I'm glad you're going to one or 2 islands. We only saw Hvar from the catamaran, but loved our 2 nights in Korcula at Villa de Polo. We would've liked to stay longer.
We took the Jadrolinija boat from Dubrovnik to Korcula. That was a pleasant experience, floating along the Dalmatian coast and between islands; we lucked out that the boat schedule fit our itinerary.
If you decide to stay in Trogir, we highly recommend the Villa Moretti, on Ciovo across a short bridge from Trogir itself. Our room had a wonderful view of Trogir and was very comfortable, large and elegant. See my review on www.tripadvisor.com.
At Plitvice we stayed at the Hotel Jezero, which was fine. In Dubrovnik we stayed in an apartment, Villa Nicole 1, which was very comfortable and had a shared terrace with a peekaboo view of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik. It is out the Ploce gate, so quieter than in town or out the Pile gate. But up a lot of stairs from town. (Though close to the road for unloading.) You would have to work hard to avoid stairs in Dubrovnik. We rented the Villa Nicole through www.dubrovnikapartmentsource.com, whom we found very helpful and responsive.
I'm glad you're going to one or 2 islands. We only saw Hvar from the catamaran, but loved our 2 nights in Korcula at Villa de Polo. We would've liked to stay longer.
We took the Jadrolinija boat from Dubrovnik to Korcula. That was a pleasant experience, floating along the Dalmatian coast and between islands; we lucked out that the boat schedule fit our itinerary.
If you decide to stay in Trogir, we highly recommend the Villa Moretti, on Ciovo across a short bridge from Trogir itself. Our room had a wonderful view of Trogir and was very comfortable, large and elegant. See my review on www.tripadvisor.com.
At Plitvice we stayed at the Hotel Jezero, which was fine. In Dubrovnik we stayed in an apartment, Villa Nicole 1, which was very comfortable and had a shared terrace with a peekaboo view of the Adriatic and Dubrovnik. It is out the Ploce gate, so quieter than in town or out the Pile gate. But up a lot of stairs from town. (Though close to the road for unloading.) You would have to work hard to avoid stairs in Dubrovnik. We rented the Villa Nicole through www.dubrovnikapartmentsource.com, whom we found very helpful and responsive.
Dec 14th, 2009, 06:54 AM
#13
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I agree with posters who said save Rovinj for a future trip and that Zagreb is underrated.
I stayed in the Hotel Plitvice, which was fine and convenient, but with a car I would search for more charming accommodations.
Split v Trogir is a matter of personal preference, day trips to either from either are a snap on the frequent bus. You might consider making some detours en route from Plitvice (Sibenik for example, to see the cathedral).
Day trip to Brac would be more convenient from Split.
Vela Luka on Korcula is too far for a day trip, but I highly recommend visiting Korcula between Hvar and Dubrovnik if the ferry schedule allows.
You are in for an amazing trip!
I stayed in the Hotel Plitvice, which was fine and convenient, but with a car I would search for more charming accommodations.
Split v Trogir is a matter of personal preference, day trips to either from either are a snap on the frequent bus. You might consider making some detours en route from Plitvice (Sibenik for example, to see the cathedral).
Day trip to Brac would be more convenient from Split.
Vela Luka on Korcula is too far for a day trip, but I highly recommend visiting Korcula between Hvar and Dubrovnik if the ferry schedule allows.
You are in for an amazing trip!
Dec 14th, 2009, 09:57 PM
#15
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I also stayed at the Hotel Plitvice, which is in the park itself. It's a bit overpriced place and not all that nice - very modest but clean - but it is really convenient. (I used the WiFi in the lobby of the Hotel Jezero, the LOBBY, at least, was far nicer than that at the Hotel Plitvice.) The upside of staying at a hotel in the park is that you can visit the park two or more days in a row for the price of one day's pass. And it's easy to get right into the park early in the morning, before the big tour groups arrive (it gets VERY crowded in the park after about 10am, it's much nicer first thing in the morning!). Yes, if you stay outside the park you can still see it in the morning, but it's more practical if you stay in the park.
gammy02, any chance you have Starwood hotel points? I forgot I had a bunch of them and used most of them on my recent trip that included Croatia. For some reason, the Westin was really cheap with points and it was quite a nice hotel.
If you rent a car in Zagreb and return it in Split, note that some car companies will charge a huge surcharge if you keep the car less than three days. I rented a car in Zagreb in October (Sixt, via Auto Europe) and at first I looked at returning to Split, too, just as a one night rental, but I changed my plans after seeing that surcharge. I'm glad that I added a few days to my trip and kept the car longer, drove down to Dubrovnik and detoured for a few nights, in the Makarska Riviera (Baska Voda) and a night in Mostar, Bosnia - but as noted above, make SURE the car you get has the right papers in it to go into Bosnia. I forgot to ask and when I arrived at Sixt I got the LAST car, and the agent told me I was really lucky it had the papers, because many of them do not.
I dropped my car in Dubrovnik then bussed/ferried back north, stopping in Korcula and ending in Split. I enjoyed Korcula and Split as well - never got to Trogir, but Split is more "cosmopolitan" and real than the vacation destinations of Korcula, Dubrovnik, etc. along the Dalmatian Coast - that is, Split is more of a functioning city that would not die if tourism faded away like Dubrovnik would. I happen to like cities like that.
gammy02, any chance you have Starwood hotel points? I forgot I had a bunch of them and used most of them on my recent trip that included Croatia. For some reason, the Westin was really cheap with points and it was quite a nice hotel.
If you rent a car in Zagreb and return it in Split, note that some car companies will charge a huge surcharge if you keep the car less than three days. I rented a car in Zagreb in October (Sixt, via Auto Europe) and at first I looked at returning to Split, too, just as a one night rental, but I changed my plans after seeing that surcharge. I'm glad that I added a few days to my trip and kept the car longer, drove down to Dubrovnik and detoured for a few nights, in the Makarska Riviera (Baska Voda) and a night in Mostar, Bosnia - but as noted above, make SURE the car you get has the right papers in it to go into Bosnia. I forgot to ask and when I arrived at Sixt I got the LAST car, and the agent told me I was really lucky it had the papers, because many of them do not.
I dropped my car in Dubrovnik then bussed/ferried back north, stopping in Korcula and ending in Split. I enjoyed Korcula and Split as well - never got to Trogir, but Split is more "cosmopolitan" and real than the vacation destinations of Korcula, Dubrovnik, etc. along the Dalmatian Coast - that is, Split is more of a functioning city that would not die if tourism faded away like Dubrovnik would. I happen to like cities like that.
Dec 17th, 2009, 05:31 PM
#17
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Gammy02,
We walked by the Karmen apartments (I was considering this place also) and noticed that there are several steps to get to them. If you have any trouble walking or carrying luggage up and down stairs, this could be difficult. It is in a quieter area of town, though and Buza Bar isn't too far away.
--Annie
We walked by the Karmen apartments (I was considering this place also) and noticed that there are several steps to get to them. If you have any trouble walking or carrying luggage up and down stairs, this could be difficult. It is in a quieter area of town, though and Buza Bar isn't too far away.
--Annie
Feb 17th, 2010, 12:29 PM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I just wanted to thank everyone here for your feedback & suggestions. I have firmed up our itinerary and hotel reservations: Arcotel Allegra in Zagreb, Krizmanic B&B in Plitvice, Pansion Albin in Zadar, Villa Moretti in Ciovo
Apt Bicancic in Hvar, Villa Depolo in Korcula, Villa Adriatica in Dubrovnik. Made car reservations with Sixt from Orbitz for 3 days from Zagreb to Split. Checked the ferry schedule and hope I read the schedules correctly.
I'm still confused whether we should take a bus or just be foot passengers in the ferry. I ordered a Croatia map from Amazon, that might also answer the nagging question of how far places are.
Annie -- thank you for the stairs warning (LOVE your travelogue....) I'm pretty fit - I just completed my 8th half marathon last week.
What else? Just anxiously waiting for the trip . . . .
Again -- thank you everybody!!!
Apt Bicancic in Hvar, Villa Depolo in Korcula, Villa Adriatica in Dubrovnik. Made car reservations with Sixt from Orbitz for 3 days from Zagreb to Split. Checked the ferry schedule and hope I read the schedules correctly.
I'm still confused whether we should take a bus or just be foot passengers in the ferry. I ordered a Croatia map from Amazon, that might also answer the nagging question of how far places are.
Annie -- thank you for the stairs warning (LOVE your travelogue....) I'm pretty fit - I just completed my 8th half marathon last week.
What else? Just anxiously waiting for the trip . . . .
Again -- thank you everybody!!!
Feb 17th, 2010, 02:28 PM
#19
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 21,369
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, I'd definitely take the catamaran from Split to Hvar and Hvar to Korcula - that runs every day (except not in extremely bad weather; it didn't run the day after I took it because of a bad storm). So should you take the bus from Korcula to Dubrovnik? I took it the opposite way and it left late afternoon; going the other way I think the bus leaves really early in the morning. It was not a particularly beautiful ride, to be honest - kind of windy too and I don't really care for long bus rides. (Otherwise it was comfortable and clean.) I think the bus ride was about 3 to 3.5 hours (it stops at least once for a 20 minute break).
I didn't take the Jadrolinija car ferry so I don't know what it would have been like, but if it had been an option for me I certainly would have taken it instead of the bus. Probably slower than the bus slightly but surely a more scenic ride. But it wouldn't be the end of the world if you have to take that early bus - then you get into Dubrovnik early! When I took it the opposite way leaving Dubrovnik mid-afternoon and getting into Korcula early evening, I killed the good part of a day...
I didn't take the Jadrolinija car ferry so I don't know what it would have been like, but if it had been an option for me I certainly would have taken it instead of the bus. Probably slower than the bus slightly but surely a more scenic ride. But it wouldn't be the end of the world if you have to take that early bus - then you get into Dubrovnik early! When I took it the opposite way leaving Dubrovnik mid-afternoon and getting into Korcula early evening, I killed the good part of a day...
Feb 17th, 2010, 03:32 PM
#20
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,350
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ha--I am opposite of Andrew. I love the bus between Korcula and Dubrovnik. Nice views of the Peljesac peninsula and the coast. But from Korcula to Dbv, it is early and I slept through the nice views.
I only like short ferry rides because it can be cold on deck and they sometimes feel like forever even when the view is nice. Catamaran is always best imo but you don't get the fresh air.
I only like short ferry rides because it can be cold on deck and they sometimes feel like forever even when the view is nice. Catamaran is always best imo but you don't get the fresh air.
