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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 03:51 PM
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Nancy: After 5 days in Dubrovnik, I am taking the bus up to Trogir for one night and then flying from Split to Rome for 9 days. I love Rome, and I know I will be able to relax there and have some days of just sitting in a piazza reading and people watching. Thanks again for the great report and information.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 03:54 PM
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Hi Barb

If it were me (and maybe it's too late), I would split Dubrovnik and Trogir - - do 2 or 3 days in Dub and then 2 days in Trogir. I don't honestly know what you will do in Dub for 5 days. But maybe you'll have lots to tell when you get back.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:03 PM
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Now that I am hearing such great things about Trogir I'm thinking I should have split it up, but apts and hotel are booked. I plan on doing day trips from Dubrovnik to Montenegro, Cavat and some of the islands, so I am only really spending one full day in Dubrovnik. If I catch an early bus to Trogir (4 hrs) I want to spend the rest of that day in Trogir. My plane does not leave Split until 5:30 p.m. so I thought I would spend some time in Split that day before I leave, especially want to see Diocletian's Palace. Will I have enough time to do this and get back to my hotel for transfer to the airport?
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:07 PM
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That is leaving Split the following day at 5:30 p.m.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:14 PM
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Nancy,

Thanks a mil...

We are doing almost exactly the same itinerary in 23 days from now, ending in Paris, but I've been there a zillion times and have friends there and we LOVE Paris. It's always nice for us in Paris as we have done all the touristy things years ago and we now go to just take in some new things and relax.

We will also be driving from Zagreb to Split, saving Trogir on the return from Hvar. We will not spend overnight in Zagreb, but head out after lunch and start driving. We are actually starting the trip in Slovenia, so we go to Zagreb by train and get our car there to drive down. we are only keeping the car to drive down the coast and then dropping it off once we hit Dubrovnik. We are staying longer in Dubrovnik as i just want to relax at our fab hotel, Grand Villa Argentina! Then its off to Hvar after Dubrovnik and then to Trogir, just overnight to catch our plane early to Paris.

Sounds like you had a wonderful time. Any specific restaurants you enjoyed along the way?
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:15 PM
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Barb - - yes, if you arrive in Trogir by early afternoon and then have it and a full evening in Trogir, that will be great (it's all gorgeous at night) and then the next morning too, you should be able to see quite a bit of Trogir (including the farmer's market - - it's a green market, and the Croatians make brandy and wine in any bottle they can find - - I have a great shot of a row of bottles -- Jack Daniels, plastic litre pop bottles, etc. full of wine for sale!)

Diocletian's Palace will be about 3 hours to thoroughly wander through.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:28 PM
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RESTAURANTS: We loved "Pharia" in Stari Grad on Hvar. Atmosphere, service and food were great. We also loved cafe Kristian in Trogir (if you like pasta and garlic!) We also had a great lunch in Trstenik, at one of the only two restaurants. this one was a waterfront spot but I can't tell you the name.

We ate at Kapetonova Kuca in Mali Ston, (part of hotel Ostrea) which is considered by most to be the best restaurant in Croatia - - we had their signature black risotto (squid ink and some would not find it to look appetizing) and great grilled fish. Pricey but very good. This dinner was our trip splurge.

wine is cheap, and good, and plentiful with dinners.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:31 PM
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tripgirl -- I must say that I'd be interested to see your Paris. Having spent three days there (loved the Orsay, loved the Latin Quarter, but hated MontMartre - filthy - and was luke warm on the other tourist sites), I feel about Paris like I do about Las Vegas - - it's there, and I guess everybody should see it once! However, they have a lot of the world's great treasures, and if I want to see them, I'll have to go back there someday and hit more museums. I just think the "greatest city in the world" and "so romantic" is great marketing. It's like Bush's "if you say something often enough, people believe it" I loved my husband's line as we ran out of the MontMartre area "I can't believe I have to go down into the subway to get the smell of pee out of my nose" LOL.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:45 PM
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Nancy...

Great trip report. I will be in Croatia in September and really looking forward to it, especially after reading your report.

Question for you:

I will be picking up my rental car in downtown Zagreb and driving to Split (on a Tuesday morning) and I was wondering if it is very difficult negotiating the drive out of downtown Zagreb to the A-1 Highway?

Thanks again for posting such a wonderfully helpful report! 8-)
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:50 PM
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LCI,

Also want to know the answer to this as we are doing the exact same drive.

Hope you ( we) get an answer!!!!!
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:52 PM
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nancy,

I know that Paris is not everyones cup of tea, no worries, we all have our likes and dislikes.

for me paris is just one of those great big cities I like to be in, but then again, I love cities. But more and more actually, islands and smaller cities are becoming appealing!

To each is own, right?

So glad the rest of your trip was a joy!

Post more stuff.......
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Trip Girl...may I suggest if you haven't already booked the Argentina , investigate the Villa Dubrovnik, a few hundred yards further up the hill... a very special hotel...we stayed there last spring (after staying at the Argentina twice in the 80's) and it is indescribable....in my opinion, much nicer than the Arg. Here is the web page..breathtaking views of the old town and decorated in whites, blues and greens. It's own boat to take you to the Old Town and a bathing platform.

It has made our own Top Ten list of hotels of character and charm around the world. Rates should be around 220-250e's

http://www.villa-dubrovnik.hr/

Stu T.



Stu T.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 04:59 PM
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trip girl and Low Country Islander - - we left Zagreb at about 4:00 in the afternoon, and it took a good deal of time to work our way through the traffic to get out of Zagreb and on our way, on the highway. I would say it was about 30 minutes of heavy traffic before we busted loose and were on our way. I suppose that the time of day we left had a lot to do with that? However, once we were out on the freeway, there were few cars and we clipped right along. Do obey the speed limits though, because my cousin in Zagreb says the police love to tag foreigners. Having said that, we never SAW a police car. (there is very little crime in Croatia, that I can see)
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 05:02 PM
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oh - - how could I forget? THE COFFEE!!! the coffee in Croatia is wonderful. it's Turkish coffee and it's so good. I don't even drink coffee (I'm a tea fan) and I loved it. It's hilarious, because we live in Seattle - - Coffee Central - - and we realize how BAD the coffee here is compared to that fabulous Croatian brew... coffee with milk - - yummy thick heavy espresso with frothy milk. yum.....
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 05:13 PM
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Wonderful trip report on beautiful Croatia. We should ALL see it one day...it's on my list for sure and it's always fun doing the research.More and more travelers seem to be headed that way. Glad to know it was easy with a car, as that is the way we almost always travel.

Am sorry about your feelings of Paris,,,and you are entitled to those feelings. I just think you don't fully understand the French people AND France. They are unique and it takes longer than three days in Paris to judge that city. Some people enjoy the countryside in FRance better than Paris...but Paris has a place in a a lot of peoples' hearts!

We all like some places better than others........but I try not to be a snob about anyplace! There is always somegood in every place one visits....
&gt
But you REALLY did have a beautiful and thorough visit to Croatia and your posting will be very helpful to those planning to visit there.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 05:20 PM
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mari5 - - about 6 years ago we spent 3 days in Rouen and on the Normandy Coast, and loved it. Paris just didn't do it for us. (she says respectfully)
Nancy
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 05:49 PM
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Nancy - glad to hear about Apartment Sandulov - I'm staying there this September. Sounds like you had a great trip. I'm visiting Trogir also. Once Croatia gets in your soul it's hard not to go back every year. Thanks for the trip report.
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 06:06 PM
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Stu,

Villa Agrentina is all booked, we have a very very nice room all booked, but thanks for the suggestion. I looked at Villa Dubrovnik and got other opinions and I am going to stick with GVA instead.

But thanks!!
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 07:04 PM
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Nancy,
I thought at first that when you wrote "Croatia is amazing", you were referring to the World Cup Match today! Croatia played Brazil - and lost!!!!!!!
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Old Jun 13th, 2006, 07:40 PM
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YIPPEE SKIPPEE!

Thanks for the great TR Nancy! In a way I almost hate hearing about how great Croatia is, we have two weeks in Sept and are doing one week in C, and then the second week in the Amalfi Coast area of Italy. Oh Lordy - maybe I should have just done the whole two weeks in Croatia!! Well, too late now! By the way , we fly from Zagreb to Dubrovnik on Air Croatia for less than $75 for the two of us combined - in case there is is any one who wants that option. We rent the car as soon as we get to Dubrovnik.

My next big thing is going to try to read the ferry schedules for get our car off Hvar and to Split. I have a block about it and am having serious trouble.

Also - thanks for the info on driving the roads on Hvar. That is really the ONLY thing I am worried about. We are going to do it even though it is scary. I am not a nervous nellie normally and hubster is a fantastic drive but still......sounds like they are HIGH!
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