Croatia: A photographic trip report in (almost) real time.
Sep 23rd, 2021, 10:30 PM
#21
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Our second base was Hvar town on Hvar island, about an hour from Split by ferry. From there we visited other local islands by boat, as well as driving around Hvar by car.
Here is a ferry route map which shows the area:
Last edited by russ_in_LA; Sep 23rd, 2021 at 10:45 PM.
but your trip looks so great, lol.
Sep 25th, 2021, 12:01 AM
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Sep 25th, 2021, 12:03 AM
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Sep 25th, 2021, 12:02 PM
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A quick stop in Sibenik, on the way to Zadar
We were disappointed that the cathedral in Sibenik was closed when we stopped by, but then we stumbled across an incredible Serbian Orthodox Church with a beautifully painted altarpiece and a stunning golden light fixture looking like an enormous floating crown (and that helped cheer us up).
Sep 25th, 2021, 12:57 PM
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Zadar
Zadar doesn稚 have the pristine quality that Hvar has, but despite being bombed 72 times during WWII, it still boasts an impressive collection of Roman ruins and medieval churches. It is also known for its modern additions: the Sea Organ, a series of submerged pipes which whistle and moan in response to the movement of the tides; and the Greeting to the Sun, a solar powered light show that comes to life after dark; however, the highlight of the visit was finally meeting new friends, fellow Fodorite Progol and her husband. The next morning we were pleasantly surprised to stumble upon a gathering of locals dressed in traditional attire in the main square.
Sep 26th, 2021, 02:34 PM
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Great trip report! I promise to post my next one like you have done this one and your last! I知 just finishing up Croatia months after returning! Your pictures are amazing and bringing up great memories. Looking forward to more as your itinerary is more varied than mine. Thank you!
Sep 27th, 2021, 05:00 AM
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progol, so glad to see you are in Croatia after coming along for the ride as you planned. Looking forward to hearing about it. No pressure though as I am still adding to my trip report and I have been back for months! RussinLA is so great with spoiling us with fabulous pictures and commentary along the way!
Sep 27th, 2021, 12:28 PM
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Plitvice Lakes National Park
We left Zadar about 10am for a quick 90 minute drive to Plitvice Lakes National Park. This was to be our only time spent inland, and the drive up through the dramatic limestone cliffs outside of Zadar was gorgeous.
After checking into our hotel, our host suggested not entering the park until 2pm in order to miss the worst of the mid-day crowds, especially since we were going to go back again the next morning. Our plan was to enter through Entrance 1 and do trail “B” that afternoon, and the next morning to start at Entrance 2 and do trail “E” (see maps below).
After lunch we headed to entrance 1 parking, which was very, very full. I thought we might need GPS just to find the entrance to the park. Although I had thought that the park would be open until 7pm, it turned out that they were actually closing at 4pm. This would mean less a leisurely stroll through the park, and more a moderate sprint, while dodging the crowds which were lingering longer than we had hoped. The scenery was as beautiful as expected, but due of the time of the year, half of the valley was already in shadows by this time of the day (unfortunately the half with most of the waterfalls), making photos a bit of a challenge.
When we arrived at the P3 boat station for the trip across the lake, there was still quite a line to get on board, so we made a last minute decision to take a trail leading to some view points on the west side of the lakes (the gray trail to the right of P3 on the maps). When we asked an Information Office employee how to get there, she told us to take the road reassuringly marked with a sign reading “Wrong Way - Do Not Enter”, but enter we did.
The trail did not seem very well maintained, but we eventually understood the reason for the warning signs, not because of any danger, but because the view at each of the three view points was obscured by trees and bushes, which had clearly not been pruned in quite some time. Eventually we came to a set of stairs which took us back down to the Great Waterfall where we had started. So as it turned out, we ended up doing a slightly modified route “A”. Our first day might not have been a complete success, but it was enjoyable all the same.
The next day we decided to go back at 8am and start again at entrance 1, and I’m so glad we did. There were only TWO cars in the parking lot when we arrived, and for the first hour we had the park practically to ourselves. Our plan now was to do route “C”, which was essentially our aborted route “B” from the lower lakes, plus route “E” in the the upper lakes. The angle of the light was much better than the day before, and when we reached the boat at P3 there was no line, and we got seats right at the front. While the lower lakes are known for their impressive open views across the valley, as well as the vibrant turquoise waters of the lakes, we enjoyed the intimate, close-up views of the many waterfalls in the upper lakes even more, making for an all together incredible visit.
After checking into our hotel, our host suggested not entering the park until 2pm in order to miss the worst of the mid-day crowds, especially since we were going to go back again the next morning. Our plan was to enter through Entrance 1 and do trail “B” that afternoon, and the next morning to start at Entrance 2 and do trail “E” (see maps below).
After lunch we headed to entrance 1 parking, which was very, very full. I thought we might need GPS just to find the entrance to the park. Although I had thought that the park would be open until 7pm, it turned out that they were actually closing at 4pm. This would mean less a leisurely stroll through the park, and more a moderate sprint, while dodging the crowds which were lingering longer than we had hoped. The scenery was as beautiful as expected, but due of the time of the year, half of the valley was already in shadows by this time of the day (unfortunately the half with most of the waterfalls), making photos a bit of a challenge.
When we arrived at the P3 boat station for the trip across the lake, there was still quite a line to get on board, so we made a last minute decision to take a trail leading to some view points on the west side of the lakes (the gray trail to the right of P3 on the maps). When we asked an Information Office employee how to get there, she told us to take the road reassuringly marked with a sign reading “Wrong Way - Do Not Enter”, but enter we did.
The trail did not seem very well maintained, but we eventually understood the reason for the warning signs, not because of any danger, but because the view at each of the three view points was obscured by trees and bushes, which had clearly not been pruned in quite some time. Eventually we came to a set of stairs which took us back down to the Great Waterfall where we had started. So as it turned out, we ended up doing a slightly modified route “A”. Our first day might not have been a complete success, but it was enjoyable all the same.
The next day we decided to go back at 8am and start again at entrance 1, and I’m so glad we did. There were only TWO cars in the parking lot when we arrived, and for the first hour we had the park practically to ourselves. Our plan now was to do route “C”, which was essentially our aborted route “B” from the lower lakes, plus route “E” in the the upper lakes. The angle of the light was much better than the day before, and when we reached the boat at P3 there was no line, and we got seats right at the front. While the lower lakes are known for their impressive open views across the valley, as well as the vibrant turquoise waters of the lakes, we enjoyed the intimate, close-up views of the many waterfalls in the upper lakes even more, making for an all together incredible visit.
Last edited by russ_in_LA; Sep 27th, 2021 at 12:40 PM.
Sep 28th, 2021, 11:40 PM
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