Country Roads Less Travelled
Aug 13th, 2023, 09:50 PM
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Country Roads Less Travelled
THE BEGINNING
There were times during the last few years that we thought we would never return to France. Our last trip was in 2018 and here we are, several years older and a little lacking in confidence, but at almost 70, we decided it was now or never. Our time was running out if we wanted to do what we love and depends on P, despite his slight apprehension, driving in France again.
It is a long flight from Australia and by the time we board in Singapore, it is way past our bed time, so we do manage to sleep. We arrived in Lyon at 9.45 on Thursday morning. Our Peugeot lease car was waiting and after some familiarisation we were ready. P had done a lot of street viewing and research and after stopping for fuel ( lease cars do not come with a full tank ) and some fruit and water, we set off for our first stop about 1.5 hours from Lyon. Once we turned off the busy main road it was a great feeling, and P had settled back into driving on the opposite side again as I was confident he would.
As our first gite was in the Dordogne, we decided on two one night stops to get there. Our first stop, just to get away from Lyon, was in the small village of Tence in the Haute Loire. We had booked a room through Logis de France in the small, comfortable Hotel de la Poste. Tence is an old village with narrow streets and a couple of churches and chapels. It is popular for fishing in the river. We had been looking forward to our first dinner and we had a lovely meal in the restaurant. The highlight was the fabulous chariot des fromages and the generous chariot des desserts. I think we over indulged but we slept well. Breakfast was equally generous with yoghurts, fruit, lovely fresh breads and cakes and a very big croissant, tea and coffee, and it set us up for the day. These small hotels and restaurants in small villages are often really good value.
Our first village - Tence
Chariot des fromages
We had a fairly big day ahead and the country was lovely – pine forests, lush green valleys and hills and beautiful views. We skirted around Le Puy en Velay which we visited several years ago and had a good view over the town. Once we turned off the main road we started seeing signs that told us we were in puy lentil country. It was quite foggy and very cold. We stopped in a couple of small villages to admire a bell tower with four large bells in one, and to visit the small church with beautiful painted ceiling in Fontans. The scenery was stunning as we descended down past a large viaduct and followed the Chapeauroux river through forests and past mossy rocks.
As we came nearer the Aubrac plateau we began to see walkers and Aumont Aubrac was busy with them. The Aubrac was as lovely as we remembered and still cold.. It was a quick descent down into St Come d’Olt. By then it was starting to warm up and we stopped for a break. We had visited in 2012 and were not really taken with it, perhaps because we had come from the gorgeous St Eulalie d’Olt, but this time we enjoyed our short visit much more.
After Espalion we stopped in Bozouls to visit the Trou de Bozouls which is quite impressive. We walked along the belvedere but did not drive down. It gives a good view across the crater to the church and other buildings on the other side.
Eglise Fontans
Trou de Bozouls
We had a chambre d’hote booked in the village of Marcillac Vallon where we had a gite for a week in 2012. It seemed busier this time. After checking in we found the supermarket. As the nearest supermarket in the Dordogne did not open on Sunday, we wanted to stock up before we reached our gite. It had been a wonderful day with lots of fabulous scenery, pretty villages, old churches – everything we love about France.
The chambre d’hote was comfortable and the owner was lovely. By this time we were quite tired and content to have cheese and charcuterie and a bottle of wine there. We had a fridge so we could freeze some bottles of water for a cold bag the next day. Breakfast was not in the dining room but was a breakfast basket brought to the room in the morning. Once again we enjoyed fruit, yoghurt, croissant, lovely fresh baguette and jams. This was good value at 60 euro for the night.
Finally we were ready to begin the main part of the trip. After two one night stays we were really looking forward to settling in for a week. Just one more drive to go.
There were times during the last few years that we thought we would never return to France. Our last trip was in 2018 and here we are, several years older and a little lacking in confidence, but at almost 70, we decided it was now or never. Our time was running out if we wanted to do what we love and depends on P, despite his slight apprehension, driving in France again.
It is a long flight from Australia and by the time we board in Singapore, it is way past our bed time, so we do manage to sleep. We arrived in Lyon at 9.45 on Thursday morning. Our Peugeot lease car was waiting and after some familiarisation we were ready. P had done a lot of street viewing and research and after stopping for fuel ( lease cars do not come with a full tank ) and some fruit and water, we set off for our first stop about 1.5 hours from Lyon. Once we turned off the busy main road it was a great feeling, and P had settled back into driving on the opposite side again as I was confident he would.
As our first gite was in the Dordogne, we decided on two one night stops to get there. Our first stop, just to get away from Lyon, was in the small village of Tence in the Haute Loire. We had booked a room through Logis de France in the small, comfortable Hotel de la Poste. Tence is an old village with narrow streets and a couple of churches and chapels. It is popular for fishing in the river. We had been looking forward to our first dinner and we had a lovely meal in the restaurant. The highlight was the fabulous chariot des fromages and the generous chariot des desserts. I think we over indulged but we slept well. Breakfast was equally generous with yoghurts, fruit, lovely fresh breads and cakes and a very big croissant, tea and coffee, and it set us up for the day. These small hotels and restaurants in small villages are often really good value.
Our first village - Tence
Chariot des fromages
We had a fairly big day ahead and the country was lovely – pine forests, lush green valleys and hills and beautiful views. We skirted around Le Puy en Velay which we visited several years ago and had a good view over the town. Once we turned off the main road we started seeing signs that told us we were in puy lentil country. It was quite foggy and very cold. We stopped in a couple of small villages to admire a bell tower with four large bells in one, and to visit the small church with beautiful painted ceiling in Fontans. The scenery was stunning as we descended down past a large viaduct and followed the Chapeauroux river through forests and past mossy rocks.
As we came nearer the Aubrac plateau we began to see walkers and Aumont Aubrac was busy with them. The Aubrac was as lovely as we remembered and still cold.. It was a quick descent down into St Come d’Olt. By then it was starting to warm up and we stopped for a break. We had visited in 2012 and were not really taken with it, perhaps because we had come from the gorgeous St Eulalie d’Olt, but this time we enjoyed our short visit much more.
After Espalion we stopped in Bozouls to visit the Trou de Bozouls which is quite impressive. We walked along the belvedere but did not drive down. It gives a good view across the crater to the church and other buildings on the other side.
Eglise Fontans
Trou de Bozouls
We had a chambre d’hote booked in the village of Marcillac Vallon where we had a gite for a week in 2012. It seemed busier this time. After checking in we found the supermarket. As the nearest supermarket in the Dordogne did not open on Sunday, we wanted to stock up before we reached our gite. It had been a wonderful day with lots of fabulous scenery, pretty villages, old churches – everything we love about France.
The chambre d’hote was comfortable and the owner was lovely. By this time we were quite tired and content to have cheese and charcuterie and a bottle of wine there. We had a fridge so we could freeze some bottles of water for a cold bag the next day. Breakfast was not in the dining room but was a breakfast basket brought to the room in the morning. Once again we enjoyed fruit, yoghurt, croissant, lovely fresh baguette and jams. This was good value at 60 euro for the night.
Finally we were ready to begin the main part of the trip. After two one night stays we were really looking forward to settling in for a week. Just one more drive to go.
Aug 13th, 2023, 10:18 PM
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THE DORDOGNE – WEEK 1
We left about 8.45 and once again it was a lovely drive. Our first stop was the pretty village of Bournazels. It has a large chateau which you see as you drive in, and then we had another view framed by a square with pruned trees in the village. We continued on through Capdenac – market day and closed roads. After crossing the Lot river we stopped in Assier which has a large asymmetrical church and a 16th century chateau which is just a shell really. We had our first picnic in a park behind the church. Now we really feel we are back- pretty villages, large church, a couple of chateaux and a picnic lunch.
Chateau BournazelOur first gite was in the small village of Biron. Now I know the Dordogne is not really ‘roads less travelled ‘ but we were a little way from the Dordogne that most people gravitate to, the area around Sarlat. In fact we were almost into the Lot et Garonne. Our gite was a small, comfortable apartment with kitchen /dining, bathroom and bedroom with everything included. It was very well equipped and the welcome gift of prune cake and local honey was delicious and appreciated. The owner was very friendly but did not speak English so my rusty French was needed. We never go with the expectation that the gite owners will speak much English. There was a small area at the front where we could sit outside and watch the visitors to the pretty village.
On Sunday morning we went for a drive nearby. We stopped, walked over a small stream where there were several men fishing and into the tiny village of St Avit which has a small 13th century church. Then on to the village of Lacapelle Biron which was busy with a vide grenier. We bought a baguette at the epicerie and were pleased to also find a boucherie in the village. This would be very handy during the week and only a few kms from the gite. We then meandered on to Gavaudon with its impressive fortress on a high ridge- we visited in 2014. Here we came across the first of many stunning displays of wisteria. A loop past a small church, eglise de Laurenque, brought us back home in time for lunch as it started to rain.
After the rain cleared later, we wandered around the village and along the roads around the outside to get different views of the village and the chateau which dominates it. We marvelled at the skill from long ago in building such a huge chateau. Biron is like a village in two parts with the main part having the chateau and small halles and the other part over the road where there are more houses and the church ( not open ).
Our gite in Biron
chateau Biron
Biron
This week was really a welcome back to places we have visited before during our 2014 stay in the Dordogne and our 2016 stay in the Lot et Garonne. We just wanted to enjoy being back, re-discovering our favourite foods and beautiful villages and countryside.
Castillones is a bastide, one of several in this region and has a nice centre square with the large hotel de ville along one side. It was quiet on a Monday morning but the boulangerie was open for a baguette and some caneles, a speciality of the area around Bordeaux. We then came back to Villereal which was our closest supermarket and we parked on the edge and walked in. The halles here are magnificent with big solid timber posts and there are some lovely buildings of colombage surrounding the square. There is of course a large church with lovely sculpture behind the altar and a gold relic of a saint in a niche. We stopped at the supermarket for necessities such as washing liquid, shampoo etc (I bring small travel bottles to start) and , of course, our first duck magret. The lady at our chambre d’hote had been telling us about the crisis in the industry with bird flu, and we did have an occasional time during the trip where we could not find duck magret. But not today.
Halles Villereal
It was great after lunch at home to be able to walk up and visit the chateau when it opened . When viewed from the road, the foundations are massive. There are a few different styles of architecture making up the chateau. The rooms are not really furnished, with just a few pieces in some, but some of the rooms have beautiful wood parquetry flooring and wooden panelling on the walls, and marble fireplaces given to the chateau by Louis IV. Some rooms have terracotta tiles and the chapel has the tombs of the two brothers who built it. There are wonderful views from the rooms and the terraces.
Buron chateau
View over Biron from chateau
Biron chateau
It was quite cool and cloudy the next day when we drove up around Monpazier and on to Beaumont en Perigord which is another beautiful bastide with more wonderful halles and attractive church and gates. It was market day and we bought a pain d’epice from a stall selling honey products and a delicious piece of honey walnut slice.
After leaving Beaumont we went on to Molieres which is an unspoiled bastide with large square, large church and the ruins of a chateau. Our last stop was Montferrand du Perigord which is not a bastide, but has big halles and a steep walk up to the remains of a chateau. It was just the sort of day we enjoy with a mix of old and new places to discover and gorgeous country to drive through.
The weather was not great this week and we had a few overcast and showery days, but did have a couple of sunny late afternoons where we could sit outside with a glass of wine and just enjoy the view of this pretty village and have a chat with passing tourists now and then.
Montferrand du Perigord
It was foggy and a bit showery on our way to Monflanquin. We had brought our household rubbish for disposal and found the bins locked and some sort of app/pass needed. So we brought it back and I more closely read the info at the gite to find that the owner would dispose of it. This was a first for us but have since been told it is like this in a couple of regions. Recycling is not affected. Anyway, on to Monflanquin where we parked near the church. This is another bastide and is built on a slope. The arcades are well preserved and on some sides, because of the slope there are steps down into the arcades. There was a film crew setting up and using drones, and a couple of people in costume and we were all dodging the showers. Even in the rain, though, it is a beautiful village. We came home through Lacapelle and stopped at the epicerie for a baguette, a cabecou, some white asparagus to have with our cuisse de poulet, and a ‘tranche de tete de cochon’. Now there is a phrase I never thought I would say!!!
After lunch we headed in the other direction up to Monpazier. Now this is a truly beautiful bastide. We enjoyed our walk around . There were roses growing around the couverts, and once again the halles are magnificent with big solid pillars. It was very quiet. We were not seeing a lot of tourists in places even though there were quite a few in Biron at times, probably because of the chateau.
Monflanquin
halles Monpazier
Monpazier
Spring is such a lovely time. I have already mentioned the wisteria, the roses were also beautiful and there were lots of pots with bright flowers in villages everywhere. We were really enjoying the white asparagus which we do not see where we live, and the strawberries were just delicious. I reckon we had already eaten a kilo of them by this time!!
It was quite dull and bleak when we drove down to the chateau at Bonaguil. There is a small village and we parked there, not realising there was a car park at the chateau. But it was a nice walk up through the village to the imposing chateau. The tour is well marked and numbered and easy to do except for one part where we climbed stairs to nowhere. It is mainly ruins but there are several towers and terraces and courtyards and we climbed every set of stairs to the top. I wish I had counted how many steps we climbed. Then back down through the village to the car. We were pleasantly tired after that. We stopped in at the epicerie again as well as the boucherie for some toulouse sausages and some frittons de canard.
Chateau Bonaguil
View from tower
chateau Bonaguil
We also went for a drive across country along back roads past poly tunnels, and lots of piles of logs by the road. We passed through a couple of villages before arriving in Villefrance de Perigord which is another bastide built around the central square with open sided market halles and deep arccades. It is constructed in the beautiful golden stone common in the Dordogne. We then came home through Mazeyrolles which is a pretty little place. There was a bus full of older people and town dignitaries all dressed up in robes. We peeped into a room to find an old carriage and equipment and it seems there are more carriages and they do rides ( not today ). Hidden surprises like this are what we enjoy finding. It was a nice finish to our first week back which had been all we hoped.
Time to go for a last walk around the village, tidy the gite, get some supplies and fuel, plan our route for the next day, and enjoy a last sit outside under the umbrella with a glass of wine on Friday afternoon. Off to a new area tomorrow.
We left about 8.45 and once again it was a lovely drive. Our first stop was the pretty village of Bournazels. It has a large chateau which you see as you drive in, and then we had another view framed by a square with pruned trees in the village. We continued on through Capdenac – market day and closed roads. After crossing the Lot river we stopped in Assier which has a large asymmetrical church and a 16th century chateau which is just a shell really. We had our first picnic in a park behind the church. Now we really feel we are back- pretty villages, large church, a couple of chateaux and a picnic lunch.
Chateau BournazelOur first gite was in the small village of Biron. Now I know the Dordogne is not really ‘roads less travelled ‘ but we were a little way from the Dordogne that most people gravitate to, the area around Sarlat. In fact we were almost into the Lot et Garonne. Our gite was a small, comfortable apartment with kitchen /dining, bathroom and bedroom with everything included. It was very well equipped and the welcome gift of prune cake and local honey was delicious and appreciated. The owner was very friendly but did not speak English so my rusty French was needed. We never go with the expectation that the gite owners will speak much English. There was a small area at the front where we could sit outside and watch the visitors to the pretty village.
On Sunday morning we went for a drive nearby. We stopped, walked over a small stream where there were several men fishing and into the tiny village of St Avit which has a small 13th century church. Then on to the village of Lacapelle Biron which was busy with a vide grenier. We bought a baguette at the epicerie and were pleased to also find a boucherie in the village. This would be very handy during the week and only a few kms from the gite. We then meandered on to Gavaudon with its impressive fortress on a high ridge- we visited in 2014. Here we came across the first of many stunning displays of wisteria. A loop past a small church, eglise de Laurenque, brought us back home in time for lunch as it started to rain.
After the rain cleared later, we wandered around the village and along the roads around the outside to get different views of the village and the chateau which dominates it. We marvelled at the skill from long ago in building such a huge chateau. Biron is like a village in two parts with the main part having the chateau and small halles and the other part over the road where there are more houses and the church ( not open ).
Our gite in Biron
chateau Biron
Biron
This week was really a welcome back to places we have visited before during our 2014 stay in the Dordogne and our 2016 stay in the Lot et Garonne. We just wanted to enjoy being back, re-discovering our favourite foods and beautiful villages and countryside.
Castillones is a bastide, one of several in this region and has a nice centre square with the large hotel de ville along one side. It was quiet on a Monday morning but the boulangerie was open for a baguette and some caneles, a speciality of the area around Bordeaux. We then came back to Villereal which was our closest supermarket and we parked on the edge and walked in. The halles here are magnificent with big solid timber posts and there are some lovely buildings of colombage surrounding the square. There is of course a large church with lovely sculpture behind the altar and a gold relic of a saint in a niche. We stopped at the supermarket for necessities such as washing liquid, shampoo etc (I bring small travel bottles to start) and , of course, our first duck magret. The lady at our chambre d’hote had been telling us about the crisis in the industry with bird flu, and we did have an occasional time during the trip where we could not find duck magret. But not today.
Halles Villereal
It was great after lunch at home to be able to walk up and visit the chateau when it opened . When viewed from the road, the foundations are massive. There are a few different styles of architecture making up the chateau. The rooms are not really furnished, with just a few pieces in some, but some of the rooms have beautiful wood parquetry flooring and wooden panelling on the walls, and marble fireplaces given to the chateau by Louis IV. Some rooms have terracotta tiles and the chapel has the tombs of the two brothers who built it. There are wonderful views from the rooms and the terraces.
Buron chateau
View over Biron from chateau
Biron chateau
It was quite cool and cloudy the next day when we drove up around Monpazier and on to Beaumont en Perigord which is another beautiful bastide with more wonderful halles and attractive church and gates. It was market day and we bought a pain d’epice from a stall selling honey products and a delicious piece of honey walnut slice.
After leaving Beaumont we went on to Molieres which is an unspoiled bastide with large square, large church and the ruins of a chateau. Our last stop was Montferrand du Perigord which is not a bastide, but has big halles and a steep walk up to the remains of a chateau. It was just the sort of day we enjoy with a mix of old and new places to discover and gorgeous country to drive through.
The weather was not great this week and we had a few overcast and showery days, but did have a couple of sunny late afternoons where we could sit outside with a glass of wine and just enjoy the view of this pretty village and have a chat with passing tourists now and then.
Montferrand du Perigord
It was foggy and a bit showery on our way to Monflanquin. We had brought our household rubbish for disposal and found the bins locked and some sort of app/pass needed. So we brought it back and I more closely read the info at the gite to find that the owner would dispose of it. This was a first for us but have since been told it is like this in a couple of regions. Recycling is not affected. Anyway, on to Monflanquin where we parked near the church. This is another bastide and is built on a slope. The arcades are well preserved and on some sides, because of the slope there are steps down into the arcades. There was a film crew setting up and using drones, and a couple of people in costume and we were all dodging the showers. Even in the rain, though, it is a beautiful village. We came home through Lacapelle and stopped at the epicerie for a baguette, a cabecou, some white asparagus to have with our cuisse de poulet, and a ‘tranche de tete de cochon’. Now there is a phrase I never thought I would say!!!
After lunch we headed in the other direction up to Monpazier. Now this is a truly beautiful bastide. We enjoyed our walk around . There were roses growing around the couverts, and once again the halles are magnificent with big solid pillars. It was very quiet. We were not seeing a lot of tourists in places even though there were quite a few in Biron at times, probably because of the chateau.
Monflanquin
halles Monpazier
Monpazier
Spring is such a lovely time. I have already mentioned the wisteria, the roses were also beautiful and there were lots of pots with bright flowers in villages everywhere. We were really enjoying the white asparagus which we do not see where we live, and the strawberries were just delicious. I reckon we had already eaten a kilo of them by this time!!
It was quite dull and bleak when we drove down to the chateau at Bonaguil. There is a small village and we parked there, not realising there was a car park at the chateau. But it was a nice walk up through the village to the imposing chateau. The tour is well marked and numbered and easy to do except for one part where we climbed stairs to nowhere. It is mainly ruins but there are several towers and terraces and courtyards and we climbed every set of stairs to the top. I wish I had counted how many steps we climbed. Then back down through the village to the car. We were pleasantly tired after that. We stopped in at the epicerie again as well as the boucherie for some toulouse sausages and some frittons de canard.
Chateau Bonaguil
View from tower
chateau Bonaguil
We also went for a drive across country along back roads past poly tunnels, and lots of piles of logs by the road. We passed through a couple of villages before arriving in Villefrance de Perigord which is another bastide built around the central square with open sided market halles and deep arccades. It is constructed in the beautiful golden stone common in the Dordogne. We then came home through Mazeyrolles which is a pretty little place. There was a bus full of older people and town dignitaries all dressed up in robes. We peeped into a room to find an old carriage and equipment and it seems there are more carriages and they do rides ( not today ). Hidden surprises like this are what we enjoy finding. It was a nice finish to our first week back which had been all we hoped.
Time to go for a last walk around the village, tidy the gite, get some supplies and fuel, plan our route for the next day, and enjoy a last sit outside under the umbrella with a glass of wine on Friday afternoon. Off to a new area tomorrow.
Aug 13th, 2023, 10:39 PM
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I love the drone shots of Chateax Bonaguil, I wish I had the confidence to buy one , I always thought I’d start WW3 with them.
Chateaux Biron looks stunning - must drop in sometime, it’s close to our favourite Sunday trip out to Issigaec.
Just out of interest do all the communal bins in Dordogne now need a residential pass? - that’s a bummer for us on the way to the airport.
Chateaux Biron looks stunning - must drop in sometime, it’s close to our favourite Sunday trip out to Issigaec.
Just out of interest do all the communal bins in Dordogne now need a residential pass? - that’s a bummer for us on the way to the airport.
Aug 13th, 2023, 11:26 PM
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For various reasons, the main one being that Biron is identified as a 12th century castle, Louis IV could not have been the donor of a marble fireplace, unless it was another Louis IV?
Louis IV, byname Louis d'Outremer (Louis from Overseas), (born 921—died Sept. 10, 954, Reims, France), king of France from 936 to 954 who spent most of his reign struggling against his powerful vassal Hugh the Great
A nice trip report.
Louis IV, byname Louis d'Outremer (Louis from Overseas), (born 921—died Sept. 10, 954, Reims, France), king of France from 936 to 954 who spent most of his reign struggling against his powerful vassal Hugh the Great
A nice trip report.
Aug 13th, 2023, 11:32 PM
#6
I love a good bastide, Most people will know what one is, but in case...
During the war between the French and English royal families the cost of fighting all these wars and the shear disruption they caused were just too much for a feudel society (with serfs/slaves etc) so the concept of towns that stimulated trade and encouraged individual activity was born. (I'm explaining it as if it were an intellectual activity but I suspect it was more a survival mechanism). The bastide helped distribute material/food during the war and they sprung up on both sides of the vague line that was the battle front.
The result mini-fortified towns with a central covered market square.
During the war between the French and English royal families the cost of fighting all these wars and the shear disruption they caused were just too much for a feudel society (with serfs/slaves etc) so the concept of towns that stimulated trade and encouraged individual activity was born. (I'm explaining it as if it were an intellectual activity but I suspect it was more a survival mechanism). The bastide helped distribute material/food during the war and they sprung up on both sides of the vague line that was the battle front.
The result mini-fortified towns with a central covered market square.
Aug 14th, 2023, 01:01 AM
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[QUOTE=BritishCaicos;17487650
Just out of interest do all the communal bins in Dordogne now need a residential pass? - that’s a bummer for us on the way to the airport.[/QUOTE]
All of the ones around us require a card to open the trash bins. You apply for the card and based on your address and how many people reside in your house, you are given a certain number of 'openings' of the trash bin. Each time you use your card to open the bin, it is registered to your account. After you have used up all your allotted 'openings,' you are charged for each additional opening. It was a big controversy when this system was implemented. Still is.
Just out of interest do all the communal bins in Dordogne now need a residential pass? - that’s a bummer for us on the way to the airport.[/QUOTE]
All of the ones around us require a card to open the trash bins. You apply for the card and based on your address and how many people reside in your house, you are given a certain number of 'openings' of the trash bin. Each time you use your card to open the bin, it is registered to your account. After you have used up all your allotted 'openings,' you are charged for each additional opening. It was a big controversy when this system was implemented. Still is.
Aug 14th, 2023, 06:13 AM
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Aug 14th, 2023, 06:17 AM
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All of the ones around us require a card to open the trash bins. You apply for the card and based on your address and how many people reside in your house, you are given a certain number of 'openings' of the trash bin. Each time you use your card to open the bin, it is registered to your account. After you have used up all your allotted 'openings,' you are charged for each additional opening. It was a big controversy when this system was implemented. Still is.
and btw when did the change happen?
Last edited by BritishCaicos; Aug 14th, 2023 at 06:19 AM. Reason: Correction
Aug 14th, 2023, 07:05 AM
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I live in the Dordogne (NE side). Our trash system changed from normal open bins (unlocked in our neighborhood) to needing the card in April of this year. Other areas changed before us, some changed after us. All the nearby towns have locked bins. If you are resident and have registered and received a card, you will be able to access/open those trash bins. If you are not resident, someone will need to dispose of your trash for you.
This caused such an uproar that all the shops in the region put gadgets on their public trash cans (in parking lots, at the entrance of the shops, etc.) to stop people dumping their sacs of trash in those bins.
This caused such an uproar that all the shops in the region put gadgets on their public trash cans (in parking lots, at the entrance of the shops, etc.) to stop people dumping their sacs of trash in those bins.
Aug 14th, 2023, 07:44 AM
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We used to have that system too. They call this 'Progress.' Sigh.
Our mayor vowed to fight it from the beginning. And he has. We (the town) will be switching to a different contract/pick-up service as of January 2024. It is 'supposed' to operate like the previous system did.
Our mayor vowed to fight it from the beginning. And he has. We (the town) will be switching to a different contract/pick-up service as of January 2024. It is 'supposed' to operate like the previous system did.
Aug 14th, 2023, 08:36 AM
#17
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What a wonderful TR! You brought back so many memories!
We stayed in the tiny bastide of Molieres during our first visit to the Dordogne, back in 1998. I think this is the first time I've seen it mentioned on Fodors! Our first night there we had dinner in Cadouin and I was introduced to garlic soup and to the glorious cloister there.
One of our first stops was the chateau at Biron. We were stunned by its power and by the conviction that brought people together to build it.
One of my memories of Monpazier still evokes a smile. We had lunch in the small cafe next to les halles and then went inside to use the bathroom. That was our introduction to what I believe called a Turkish toilet, otherwise known as a hole in the ground with places for one's feet on either side. We had been to France before but had not encountered this, altho we knew they existed, esp in the countryside. The expression on our young daughter's face was hilarious.
One more reminiscence--near the end of our stay we visited Bonaguil, one of the most dominating and powerful ruins I"ve ever seen.It made an impression that I still carry with me.
Our most recent visit to the the area was in 2018, when we spent two weeks in the Lot, based in St Cere, after a drive from Aix that took us through some beautiful scenery (we overnighted at Millau). The area was as wonderful twenty years later as it was in 1998.
Thank you for bringing back so many wonderful, happy times.
We stayed in the tiny bastide of Molieres during our first visit to the Dordogne, back in 1998. I think this is the first time I've seen it mentioned on Fodors! Our first night there we had dinner in Cadouin and I was introduced to garlic soup and to the glorious cloister there.
One of our first stops was the chateau at Biron. We were stunned by its power and by the conviction that brought people together to build it.
One of my memories of Monpazier still evokes a smile. We had lunch in the small cafe next to les halles and then went inside to use the bathroom. That was our introduction to what I believe called a Turkish toilet, otherwise known as a hole in the ground with places for one's feet on either side. We had been to France before but had not encountered this, altho we knew they existed, esp in the countryside. The expression on our young daughter's face was hilarious.
One more reminiscence--near the end of our stay we visited Bonaguil, one of the most dominating and powerful ruins I"ve ever seen.It made an impression that I still carry with me.
Our most recent visit to the the area was in 2018, when we spent two weeks in the Lot, based in St Cere, after a drive from Aix that took us through some beautiful scenery (we overnighted at Millau). The area was as wonderful twenty years later as it was in 1998.
Thank you for bringing back so many wonderful, happy times.
Aug 14th, 2023, 03:17 PM
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Michael, I am sure that is what the information sheet said. Perhaps I misread it.
The photos of Bonaguil were just taken from the towers. No drones involved. We just climbed every steps we came to.
Bilbo, there are some wonderful bastides in this area and we have enjoyed several over the years.
Frances, we did not have any Trappe this time. What an oversight!! It is not easy to find elsewhere and in our first week, we did not think of it. We did have a bottle of Pecharmant though.
This was the only area we came across the rubbish issue. I can imagine the annoyance this provoked in residents. When we were disposing of our recycling, there were bags lying next to the household bins.
Molieres was really pleasant. None of these places are really difficult to get to. It is just that they do not make the ' must see ' list for people. Perhaps that is why we like them.
The photos of Bonaguil were just taken from the towers. No drones involved. We just climbed every steps we came to.
Bilbo, there are some wonderful bastides in this area and we have enjoyed several over the years.
Frances, we did not have any Trappe this time. What an oversight!! It is not easy to find elsewhere and in our first week, we did not think of it. We did have a bottle of Pecharmant though.
This was the only area we came across the rubbish issue. I can imagine the annoyance this provoked in residents. When we were disposing of our recycling, there were bags lying next to the household bins.
Molieres was really pleasant. None of these places are really difficult to get to. It is just that they do not make the ' must see ' list for people. Perhaps that is why we like them.
Aug 14th, 2023, 04:30 PM
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THE BEARN- WEEKS 2&3
Once again it was quite foggy and bleak when we left Biron, but we still enjoyed the drive through Monflanquin and Cancon and we stopped for a baguette in the small village of Morbahus. We learnt very early in our travels to get a baguette when we see a boulangerie on our changeover days. We saw quite a lot of wheat growing and also people picking asparagus. After a while the country became less appealing as we were close to the Landes region but did see some attractive half timbered buildings.
We planned a stop in the small village of Labastide d’Armagnac which is very old and unspoiled. The centre square is not paved, just gravel and cobble stones but it is beautiful. There were roses growing against the couverts in bright colours- red, dark orange, gold through to yellow- and there are a couple of cafes and wine stores under the arcades which are topped with half-timbered buildings. The church is big with a high vaulted ceiling and an interesting feature is the large trompe l’oeil behind the altar. It really gives the impression of columns/pillars and urns in niches. It is a lovely place.
Labastide d'Armagnac
labastide d'armagnacThe drizzle followed as as we neared our destination for the next two weeks. We passed through forests with large trees with white blossoms that carpeted the road like snow. It was very pretty. Our gite was about three kms outside the small town of Monein about 25 kms from Pau. It was on the side of a hill and attached to large farm buildings and surrounded by grape vines. The owners, a retired couple a little older than us, lived a couple of hundred metres down the road. Once again, they were very friendly and did not speak English, but we managed. After the small apartment from the previous week, this was a lot larger. We entered via a lovely tiled terrace with views to the mountains and up stairs to the gite which had a large kitchen-living area and two bedrooms, bathroom and laundry. It was well equipped in the kitchen and there was a welcome gift of the local Jurancon wine. We looked over the wall of the terrace to Monsieur’s potager and he came up late afternoons to work in it.
It was still foggy and overcast next morning when we went into town to check out the shops and supermarket. The following day, Monday was the first of the May public holidays, and as Labour day, nothing would be open. Monein is a small market town with some shops in the village itself and an Intermarche on the edge of town, so perfect for our needs. After lunch the weather cleared and we went out for a walk further up the hill past our gite. There were grape vines everywhere and the views in both directions were lovely, and more of the white flowering trees dropping blossoms on the road.
On Monday it was once again misty and showery. It was never heavy rain, but just enough to be a nuisance, but by mid morning it started to clear. We went out for a drive around with our first stop in the small nearby village of Cardesse. The covered entrance of the church comes out into the road which has to bend to go around. Later in the week we came through as a funeral was gathering and it was quite crowded going through. This church is one of several which have a small low door reserved for the Cagots which were a persecuted minority in this region. Inside the church, the levels reminded me of churches we saw in the neighbouring Basque region. We then moved on to Lucq de Bearn where there are the ruins of an abbey beside the church.
Our destination was the village of Gurs which is the site of a large internment camp from the time around WW2. Over 60,000 people were interned there beginning with Spanish fighters from 1936-1939, and then Jewish people from Germany and Northern France. There are over 1,000 graves and a lot buried there were in their seventies and eighties. The remains of the train lines are still there as well as some recreated huts where the camp stood, with information signs. It was very moving to learn about this little known piece of history in this out of the way place. We then came home a different way and back through Monein. The road was quite hilly and winding but the scenery was wonderful. Another walk in a different direction took us past more grapevines, some beautiful blonde aquitaine cattle and lots of wildflowers and multi coloured daisies. Lovely. And as a bonus, the sun came out and we were able to sit on the terrace and revel in the view of the snow capped Pyrenees.
Gurs internment cemetery
At last, a sunny day. We headed across to the plus beau village of Navarrenx which is an impressive fortified village with walls around. We followed the walk around the village and from the walls you can look out over the river and a statue of two musketeers. Apparently two of the brothers who were inspiration for Alexandre Dumas’ Three Musketeers were from the village. We saw the small amphitheatre, the gunpowder store and the Arsenal which surrounds a large courtyard. It is now a gite for people walkng the camino.
Later we went across to Lacommande which is nice little village with an attractive park Unfortunately the Commanderie was not open but we could walk around it and see the cemetery. We stopped in at a wine cave and bought a couple of bottles of Jurancon wine.
It was another beautiful day when we took our first drive down to the mountains. It was a pretty drive down the Aspe valley from Oloron ste Marie with the little stream alongside. We stopped in Bedous and bought a baguette. We turned off the main road to go up to Lescun and as we climbed we could see the impressive mountains. Lescun is a small village with narrow streets and lanes and we walked past the church and the lavoir. It is a short walk up to a kiosk where there is an amazing view over the village to the bare mountains behind. Sitting on a rock surrounded by yellow wildflowers with the stunning view is a real ‘pinch me ‘ moment. We took a short drive for another perspective and luckily there was a picnic table so we had lunch with a view.
On the way home we stopped in at Sarrance where there is a monestery which is still in use. There are small, pretty cloisters with gardens and the church is beautiful with lots of gold, painted ceilings, and a beautiful gold embroidered altar cloth. As a sewer, I enjoy seeing these beautifully crafted items. It had been a lovely day, so warm and it showed 31 on the car. We put the umbrella up on the terrace and enjoyed a glass of local wine and the local cheese, Ossau Iraty. It does not get much better
Lescun and the Pyrenees
On the day we went into Oloron, we found a park that allowed us to walk to all we wanted to see. While not the most attractive town, it does have some pleasant areas, and has three quartiers which are centred around three churches. We walked over the pedestrian bridge which gives nice views up and down the river, and of the houses which overhang it. We then climbed up the escalier and walked around the Boulevarde de Promenade which goes around the hill to the Eglise Ste Croix. It is a lovely church with a large bronze statue of the Virgin Mary outside and carved gold altar up yo the ceiling. We also passed the Tour Grede ( not open ) and walked back down to the eglise Notre Dame. It is an imposing building in black and white stone and very dark inside with lots of dark green in the paintings and painted pillars and dark wood panelling. Very different from the previous church, but I liked it. It was then another walk uphill to the Cathedral Ste Marie. It has a very elaborate and decorative tympanum, and more painted pillars and an impressive organ with blue pipes. There is a tresor but we did not see it. By this time my legs needed a rest and a piece of the local speciality, La Russe, from the patisserie opposite was in order. It was like two layers of biscuity pastry with a creamy filling and very nice. We did enjoy our visit to Oloron but it is a bit scruffy and in need of some TLC in places I think.
One day we drove up to Orthez which is another larger town to the north. Once again parking was easy and we first walked down to the river to see the old bridge and walk on to it. Pity about the railway lines running past it. But it is attractive when viewed from the bridge further down. Then we walked up to the Tour Moncade which is all that rmains of the chateau. There are still signs where it was and the remains of the ramparts. Then back to the centre of town which, after Oloron, is really pleasant. It is all paved in front of the church with shops and cafes. We stopped in at the boulangerie for a baguette and were tempted by a leek quiche still warm from the oven. We enjoyed sitting in the sun on a seat opposite the large church before we walked back to the car.
bridge at Orthez
On the way home through Monein, we stopped at the TO and booked a tour of the church later that afternoon. The church here, St Girons, is huge and we took the tour so we could go up into the roof and see the charpentes, the roof structure. We were the only non french people but we had a very good audio guide and the tour guide was also good and kept checking we were following. The first part was in the church itself and then we climbed the 72 steps up into the roof where the whole wooden framework is revealed. It is quite amazing and there was also a small light and sound show . It has been restored using the original methods and it is believed a lot of the original work was done by the Cagots who were often skilled tradesmen. Very enjoyable. By this time it was after 5 and when we came out there was a small market setting up and the village was buzzing. A young boy was playing a piano accordian and it was a great atmosphere with stalls with cheese and smoked goods and one selling curries. It was very pleasant day.
St Girons Monein
As there was more rain predicted later in the week, we decided to drive down the other valley, the Ossau. We drove down through the pretty little village of Lasseube and then on to Arudy which has a pleasant centre with a couple of cafes/bars and a channel of water running through the village. It had unusual structures along the side and we were not sure of their purpose. The church was busy on a Sunday morning. Then on to Bielle which was small but pretty. We crossed the river a little further on and had to stop as a flock of sheep was being herded along by large white pyrenean sheep dogs. It was lovely as we came back along the river and stopped in Castet where we walked up to the chapel with vaulted painted ceilings. There was a good view of the donjon from the cemetery and also over the village.
Monday was another public holiday – Victory in Europe. . We went up to Salies de Bearn which is an attractive town- very clean and tidy with well maintained streets and houses.. The river runs through it and the Pont de Lune gives a good view of the houses some of which have pillars. The town was quite busy, some shops were open and the band was setting up for the ceremony. The thermal quarter has thermal baths and a hotel, both attractive buildings, and the public gardens in front are being renovated and paved and will be very nice when finished.
We then continued on to Sauveterre de Bearn which is smaller. There is a large paved area in front of the Mairie and a terrace overlooking the river which continues behind the church. From here you can see the half bridge. Beside the church is a tower and then lots of steps lead down to the river. We walked up and onto the bridge which gives a good view back to the tower and walls. Another nice day out.
Salies de Bearn
Sauveterre de Bearn
We enjoyed several drives around the area. One day we went up through Arthez which is only small but has a belvedere behind the church with nice views and a good boulangerie. It was a lovely drive – very rural with lots of cultivation rather than grape vines. Morlanne turned out to be a lovely little village. The church ( not open ) had a round tower at one end and a bell tower at the other. Opposite the church was another building with a communal oven in the courtyard and a tower which houses the village library. We walked down through the village past some pretty houses to the chateau. It was attractive and made of thin bricks and surrounded by a moat ( no water ). It was not open but we could walk around the grounds which included hedged gardens and quirky planters in the shape of animals.
This is not a region you see mentioned often on travel forums but we really enjoyed our stay here. We had hoped to go down to the Gorges of the Kakuetta but they were closed for the year after an accident last year. So now it is time to move on.
Chateau Morlanne
Eglise Morlanne
Once again it was quite foggy and bleak when we left Biron, but we still enjoyed the drive through Monflanquin and Cancon and we stopped for a baguette in the small village of Morbahus. We learnt very early in our travels to get a baguette when we see a boulangerie on our changeover days. We saw quite a lot of wheat growing and also people picking asparagus. After a while the country became less appealing as we were close to the Landes region but did see some attractive half timbered buildings.
We planned a stop in the small village of Labastide d’Armagnac which is very old and unspoiled. The centre square is not paved, just gravel and cobble stones but it is beautiful. There were roses growing against the couverts in bright colours- red, dark orange, gold through to yellow- and there are a couple of cafes and wine stores under the arcades which are topped with half-timbered buildings. The church is big with a high vaulted ceiling and an interesting feature is the large trompe l’oeil behind the altar. It really gives the impression of columns/pillars and urns in niches. It is a lovely place.
Labastide d'Armagnac
labastide d'armagnacThe drizzle followed as as we neared our destination for the next two weeks. We passed through forests with large trees with white blossoms that carpeted the road like snow. It was very pretty. Our gite was about three kms outside the small town of Monein about 25 kms from Pau. It was on the side of a hill and attached to large farm buildings and surrounded by grape vines. The owners, a retired couple a little older than us, lived a couple of hundred metres down the road. Once again, they were very friendly and did not speak English, but we managed. After the small apartment from the previous week, this was a lot larger. We entered via a lovely tiled terrace with views to the mountains and up stairs to the gite which had a large kitchen-living area and two bedrooms, bathroom and laundry. It was well equipped in the kitchen and there was a welcome gift of the local Jurancon wine. We looked over the wall of the terrace to Monsieur’s potager and he came up late afternoons to work in it.
It was still foggy and overcast next morning when we went into town to check out the shops and supermarket. The following day, Monday was the first of the May public holidays, and as Labour day, nothing would be open. Monein is a small market town with some shops in the village itself and an Intermarche on the edge of town, so perfect for our needs. After lunch the weather cleared and we went out for a walk further up the hill past our gite. There were grape vines everywhere and the views in both directions were lovely, and more of the white flowering trees dropping blossoms on the road.
On Monday it was once again misty and showery. It was never heavy rain, but just enough to be a nuisance, but by mid morning it started to clear. We went out for a drive around with our first stop in the small nearby village of Cardesse. The covered entrance of the church comes out into the road which has to bend to go around. Later in the week we came through as a funeral was gathering and it was quite crowded going through. This church is one of several which have a small low door reserved for the Cagots which were a persecuted minority in this region. Inside the church, the levels reminded me of churches we saw in the neighbouring Basque region. We then moved on to Lucq de Bearn where there are the ruins of an abbey beside the church.
Our destination was the village of Gurs which is the site of a large internment camp from the time around WW2. Over 60,000 people were interned there beginning with Spanish fighters from 1936-1939, and then Jewish people from Germany and Northern France. There are over 1,000 graves and a lot buried there were in their seventies and eighties. The remains of the train lines are still there as well as some recreated huts where the camp stood, with information signs. It was very moving to learn about this little known piece of history in this out of the way place. We then came home a different way and back through Monein. The road was quite hilly and winding but the scenery was wonderful. Another walk in a different direction took us past more grapevines, some beautiful blonde aquitaine cattle and lots of wildflowers and multi coloured daisies. Lovely. And as a bonus, the sun came out and we were able to sit on the terrace and revel in the view of the snow capped Pyrenees.
Gurs internment cemetery
At last, a sunny day. We headed across to the plus beau village of Navarrenx which is an impressive fortified village with walls around. We followed the walk around the village and from the walls you can look out over the river and a statue of two musketeers. Apparently two of the brothers who were inspiration for Alexandre Dumas’ Three Musketeers were from the village. We saw the small amphitheatre, the gunpowder store and the Arsenal which surrounds a large courtyard. It is now a gite for people walkng the camino.
Later we went across to Lacommande which is nice little village with an attractive park Unfortunately the Commanderie was not open but we could walk around it and see the cemetery. We stopped in at a wine cave and bought a couple of bottles of Jurancon wine.
It was another beautiful day when we took our first drive down to the mountains. It was a pretty drive down the Aspe valley from Oloron ste Marie with the little stream alongside. We stopped in Bedous and bought a baguette. We turned off the main road to go up to Lescun and as we climbed we could see the impressive mountains. Lescun is a small village with narrow streets and lanes and we walked past the church and the lavoir. It is a short walk up to a kiosk where there is an amazing view over the village to the bare mountains behind. Sitting on a rock surrounded by yellow wildflowers with the stunning view is a real ‘pinch me ‘ moment. We took a short drive for another perspective and luckily there was a picnic table so we had lunch with a view.
On the way home we stopped in at Sarrance where there is a monestery which is still in use. There are small, pretty cloisters with gardens and the church is beautiful with lots of gold, painted ceilings, and a beautiful gold embroidered altar cloth. As a sewer, I enjoy seeing these beautifully crafted items. It had been a lovely day, so warm and it showed 31 on the car. We put the umbrella up on the terrace and enjoyed a glass of local wine and the local cheese, Ossau Iraty. It does not get much better
Lescun and the Pyrenees
On the day we went into Oloron, we found a park that allowed us to walk to all we wanted to see. While not the most attractive town, it does have some pleasant areas, and has three quartiers which are centred around three churches. We walked over the pedestrian bridge which gives nice views up and down the river, and of the houses which overhang it. We then climbed up the escalier and walked around the Boulevarde de Promenade which goes around the hill to the Eglise Ste Croix. It is a lovely church with a large bronze statue of the Virgin Mary outside and carved gold altar up yo the ceiling. We also passed the Tour Grede ( not open ) and walked back down to the eglise Notre Dame. It is an imposing building in black and white stone and very dark inside with lots of dark green in the paintings and painted pillars and dark wood panelling. Very different from the previous church, but I liked it. It was then another walk uphill to the Cathedral Ste Marie. It has a very elaborate and decorative tympanum, and more painted pillars and an impressive organ with blue pipes. There is a tresor but we did not see it. By this time my legs needed a rest and a piece of the local speciality, La Russe, from the patisserie opposite was in order. It was like two layers of biscuity pastry with a creamy filling and very nice. We did enjoy our visit to Oloron but it is a bit scruffy and in need of some TLC in places I think.
One day we drove up to Orthez which is another larger town to the north. Once again parking was easy and we first walked down to the river to see the old bridge and walk on to it. Pity about the railway lines running past it. But it is attractive when viewed from the bridge further down. Then we walked up to the Tour Moncade which is all that rmains of the chateau. There are still signs where it was and the remains of the ramparts. Then back to the centre of town which, after Oloron, is really pleasant. It is all paved in front of the church with shops and cafes. We stopped in at the boulangerie for a baguette and were tempted by a leek quiche still warm from the oven. We enjoyed sitting in the sun on a seat opposite the large church before we walked back to the car.
bridge at Orthez
On the way home through Monein, we stopped at the TO and booked a tour of the church later that afternoon. The church here, St Girons, is huge and we took the tour so we could go up into the roof and see the charpentes, the roof structure. We were the only non french people but we had a very good audio guide and the tour guide was also good and kept checking we were following. The first part was in the church itself and then we climbed the 72 steps up into the roof where the whole wooden framework is revealed. It is quite amazing and there was also a small light and sound show . It has been restored using the original methods and it is believed a lot of the original work was done by the Cagots who were often skilled tradesmen. Very enjoyable. By this time it was after 5 and when we came out there was a small market setting up and the village was buzzing. A young boy was playing a piano accordian and it was a great atmosphere with stalls with cheese and smoked goods and one selling curries. It was very pleasant day.
St Girons Monein
As there was more rain predicted later in the week, we decided to drive down the other valley, the Ossau. We drove down through the pretty little village of Lasseube and then on to Arudy which has a pleasant centre with a couple of cafes/bars and a channel of water running through the village. It had unusual structures along the side and we were not sure of their purpose. The church was busy on a Sunday morning. Then on to Bielle which was small but pretty. We crossed the river a little further on and had to stop as a flock of sheep was being herded along by large white pyrenean sheep dogs. It was lovely as we came back along the river and stopped in Castet where we walked up to the chapel with vaulted painted ceilings. There was a good view of the donjon from the cemetery and also over the village.
Monday was another public holiday – Victory in Europe. . We went up to Salies de Bearn which is an attractive town- very clean and tidy with well maintained streets and houses.. The river runs through it and the Pont de Lune gives a good view of the houses some of which have pillars. The town was quite busy, some shops were open and the band was setting up for the ceremony. The thermal quarter has thermal baths and a hotel, both attractive buildings, and the public gardens in front are being renovated and paved and will be very nice when finished.
We then continued on to Sauveterre de Bearn which is smaller. There is a large paved area in front of the Mairie and a terrace overlooking the river which continues behind the church. From here you can see the half bridge. Beside the church is a tower and then lots of steps lead down to the river. We walked up and onto the bridge which gives a good view back to the tower and walls. Another nice day out.
Salies de Bearn
Sauveterre de Bearn
We enjoyed several drives around the area. One day we went up through Arthez which is only small but has a belvedere behind the church with nice views and a good boulangerie. It was a lovely drive – very rural with lots of cultivation rather than grape vines. Morlanne turned out to be a lovely little village. The church ( not open ) had a round tower at one end and a bell tower at the other. Opposite the church was another building with a communal oven in the courtyard and a tower which houses the village library. We walked down through the village past some pretty houses to the chateau. It was attractive and made of thin bricks and surrounded by a moat ( no water ). It was not open but we could walk around the grounds which included hedged gardens and quirky planters in the shape of animals.
This is not a region you see mentioned often on travel forums but we really enjoyed our stay here. We had hoped to go down to the Gorges of the Kakuetta but they were closed for the year after an accident last year. So now it is time to move on.
Chateau Morlanne
Eglise Morlanne
