Country Roads in Autumn. Ten weeks in country France.
Jan 9th, 2017, 05:59 PM
#41
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
He did enjoy it. He has had it before on another trip. On that occasion, the waiter detected , naturally , that we were not French, and confirmed that monsieur really did want it. We do like to try different food that we do not get at home.
WEEK 10 – BURGUNDY– Saone et Loire.
We enjoyed the drive that morning as we were passing through country we had visited before. We stayed in the Allier in 2008 and 2010 and passed quite close to our base. Culan has an impressive chateau, and we stopped in Souvigny which has an outstanding Priory church and is considered a Grand site of the Auvergne. We then detoured to Digoin to see the canal bridge over the Loire and also discovered the superb grey and white stone church.
Our gite this week was in the small town of Charolles. We have visited Charolles twice, in 2010 and 2014, on drives from our base near Cormatin. It is an appealing small town with some interesting historic buildings and a nice centre. Just an average town, I suppose, but of the kind that appeals to us. Madame had the wood fire burning and the coffee brewing when we arrived. The gite was old and belonged to her grandmother, and it felt as though she was just out and we were guests in her home. There were bits and pieces around, and bookshelves over flowing with books and we were very comfortable there. Unfortunately it was too cold to sit out in the little garden.
We had hoped to walk down to the centre on Sunday, but it was raining so we drove instead and found the supermarket, boulangerie and an interesting boucherie/ charcuterie. There are some restaurants, one with 1 michelin star. It cleared a little later and we went for a short drive around nearby. If I am honest, after a long trip, we find our last week is a bit of a wind down week with some lovely drives and walks around and time to enjoy just being there.
It was brighter on Monday and we set out for Anzy le Duc.. We stopped in Lugny les Charolles to admire the lovely golden stone church with a chateau behind and above it. It is most attractive. We detoured off to drive through the little village of Montceaux l’Etoile and were pleased we did. It is lovely driving in by a low stone wall with a tower in the distance. The tower was built by an Italian adventurer, but its’ actual purpose is unknown. The church is golden stone with bell tower and lovely carved tympan portail. When I told Madame we had visited, she said this was one of her favourite churches. Next stop was Anzy le Duc which is all about the magnificent abbatiale and priory. The latter is now privately owned, but you can enter the first courtyard to view the lovely buildings. The church has the same carved portail as Montceaux l’Etoile , but on a larger scale. Inside are large columns and frescoes around the altar, and the crypt with domed ceilings can also be visited. This region is renowned for its’ Romanesque churches and there are some wonderful examples.
In Semur en Brionnais we saw the remains of the Chateau d’Hugues and a large priory which is still in use. This is, of course, Charolais territory, and St Christope en Brionnais is renowned for the large cattle market that is held there each Wednesday. Oye was another charming stop. Each time we drive around the Brionnais region, we are reminded just how beautiful it is. The scenery is just gorgeous with hedged fields, white charolais cattle, lovely farm buildings, large houses that almost could be small chateaux, and charming little villages. And yet, a lot of people will probably never have heard of it.
On Tuesday, we planned lunch out at a small restaurant we found in the small village of Champlecy, only a few kms outside Charolles. We took the scenic route and detoured off to see the Chateau Chamont. There is a pretty chateau but what really impressed us were the stables. At first we thought they were the chateau as they were just magnificent, with three large staircases and statues. We found out later they are being restored and will be open to the public. We also detoured along a back road [you will have gathered by now that we are pretty good at this!] to find the private chateau of Champvent. It is another fairytale chateau with a lake in front, but in reality, is just someone’s home. Lunch after all this was lovely. We had
delicious oeufs meurette for starters. I must learn to make these as well. We liked the sound of the other menus as well, so we made a booking for our last night.
The rain was staying away and we drove up to Paray le Monial which is in an attractive position on the river and canal. We visited the cloisters and then the enormous basilica, Sacre Coeur, which is a small scale version of the abbey at Cluny. It has some quite modern features in the lights and the stations of the cross. The historic part of town is lovely with paved streets and some historic buildings such as the Tour of St Nicholas and the former ‘hotel particular’ which is now the Hotel de Ville. It has a lovely carved front. In the Chapelle de Colombier, which was built by the Jesuits, there are some lovely mosaics. We really enjoyed our visit to this small town.
On Thursday it was still fine, so we drove down to La Clayette which is a pretty little town with some interesting shops. You cannot miss the fairytale chateau beside the lake on the main road through. You can imagine Rapunzel at a tower window. It is beautiful but not open to the public. We then followed the stream to Chateauneuf where the chateau is beside the golden stone church above the village. We were still seeing lovely large houses, some with towers. At Moussy sous Dun there is a viaduct for the railway line, and it looks impressive towering over the farms and village. The road then climbs up to Dun, and about 300 m off the road is the Montagne de Dun where there is a 12th century chapel and offers a magnificent panorama over this gorgeous Burgundian countryside. One final stop and we saw our last Romanesque church in the small village of Ste Marie du Bois. We never cease to be amazed by the churches that can be found in some of these tiny places. All in all, it was a lovely day out.
So it is Friday again, our last day, and the weather has set in a little. We have to really get organised and pack our bags properly, use up, leave behind [olive oil, vinegar, etc], or dispose of the things we have accumulated [assorted containers] over our time here. We went for a last look around town and stopped in at the charcuterie for two aiguelettes de saumon – salmon set in light aspic with a little mayo and a slice of boiled egg. It was perfect with fresh baguette for lunch. That night we went out for dinner in Champlecy and toasted the end of another unforgettable trip.
Saturday saw us driving back through the beautiful country. We skirted along the edge of the Beaujolais region. Here we had a stop for about 15mins as the runners in the Marathon de Beaujolais crossed the road. Lucky we were not in a hurry. We said goodbye to our faithful little car at Lyon airport and began our long journey home.
Conclusion..
Once again France did not disappoint. We have some unforgettable memories, wonderful photos and some extra kilos. We always say that will be it for a while, but in a year or so, one of us will find the other surreptitiously looking at gites. A lot of planning and research goes into our trips, but it does reward us once we are there. All our gites this time were booked through Gites de France and we were happy with them. For us, this is a rewarding and most affordable way to travel. I have enjoyed reliving our trip once again. Please feel free to ask me any questions.
Au revoir.
WEEK 10 – BURGUNDY– Saone et Loire.
We enjoyed the drive that morning as we were passing through country we had visited before. We stayed in the Allier in 2008 and 2010 and passed quite close to our base. Culan has an impressive chateau, and we stopped in Souvigny which has an outstanding Priory church and is considered a Grand site of the Auvergne. We then detoured to Digoin to see the canal bridge over the Loire and also discovered the superb grey and white stone church.
Our gite this week was in the small town of Charolles. We have visited Charolles twice, in 2010 and 2014, on drives from our base near Cormatin. It is an appealing small town with some interesting historic buildings and a nice centre. Just an average town, I suppose, but of the kind that appeals to us. Madame had the wood fire burning and the coffee brewing when we arrived. The gite was old and belonged to her grandmother, and it felt as though she was just out and we were guests in her home. There were bits and pieces around, and bookshelves over flowing with books and we were very comfortable there. Unfortunately it was too cold to sit out in the little garden.
We had hoped to walk down to the centre on Sunday, but it was raining so we drove instead and found the supermarket, boulangerie and an interesting boucherie/ charcuterie. There are some restaurants, one with 1 michelin star. It cleared a little later and we went for a short drive around nearby. If I am honest, after a long trip, we find our last week is a bit of a wind down week with some lovely drives and walks around and time to enjoy just being there.
It was brighter on Monday and we set out for Anzy le Duc.. We stopped in Lugny les Charolles to admire the lovely golden stone church with a chateau behind and above it. It is most attractive. We detoured off to drive through the little village of Montceaux l’Etoile and were pleased we did. It is lovely driving in by a low stone wall with a tower in the distance. The tower was built by an Italian adventurer, but its’ actual purpose is unknown. The church is golden stone with bell tower and lovely carved tympan portail. When I told Madame we had visited, she said this was one of her favourite churches. Next stop was Anzy le Duc which is all about the magnificent abbatiale and priory. The latter is now privately owned, but you can enter the first courtyard to view the lovely buildings. The church has the same carved portail as Montceaux l’Etoile , but on a larger scale. Inside are large columns and frescoes around the altar, and the crypt with domed ceilings can also be visited. This region is renowned for its’ Romanesque churches and there are some wonderful examples.
In Semur en Brionnais we saw the remains of the Chateau d’Hugues and a large priory which is still in use. This is, of course, Charolais territory, and St Christope en Brionnais is renowned for the large cattle market that is held there each Wednesday. Oye was another charming stop. Each time we drive around the Brionnais region, we are reminded just how beautiful it is. The scenery is just gorgeous with hedged fields, white charolais cattle, lovely farm buildings, large houses that almost could be small chateaux, and charming little villages. And yet, a lot of people will probably never have heard of it.
On Tuesday, we planned lunch out at a small restaurant we found in the small village of Champlecy, only a few kms outside Charolles. We took the scenic route and detoured off to see the Chateau Chamont. There is a pretty chateau but what really impressed us were the stables. At first we thought they were the chateau as they were just magnificent, with three large staircases and statues. We found out later they are being restored and will be open to the public. We also detoured along a back road [you will have gathered by now that we are pretty good at this!] to find the private chateau of Champvent. It is another fairytale chateau with a lake in front, but in reality, is just someone’s home. Lunch after all this was lovely. We had
delicious oeufs meurette for starters. I must learn to make these as well. We liked the sound of the other menus as well, so we made a booking for our last night.
The rain was staying away and we drove up to Paray le Monial which is in an attractive position on the river and canal. We visited the cloisters and then the enormous basilica, Sacre Coeur, which is a small scale version of the abbey at Cluny. It has some quite modern features in the lights and the stations of the cross. The historic part of town is lovely with paved streets and some historic buildings such as the Tour of St Nicholas and the former ‘hotel particular’ which is now the Hotel de Ville. It has a lovely carved front. In the Chapelle de Colombier, which was built by the Jesuits, there are some lovely mosaics. We really enjoyed our visit to this small town.
On Thursday it was still fine, so we drove down to La Clayette which is a pretty little town with some interesting shops. You cannot miss the fairytale chateau beside the lake on the main road through. You can imagine Rapunzel at a tower window. It is beautiful but not open to the public. We then followed the stream to Chateauneuf where the chateau is beside the golden stone church above the village. We were still seeing lovely large houses, some with towers. At Moussy sous Dun there is a viaduct for the railway line, and it looks impressive towering over the farms and village. The road then climbs up to Dun, and about 300 m off the road is the Montagne de Dun where there is a 12th century chapel and offers a magnificent panorama over this gorgeous Burgundian countryside. One final stop and we saw our last Romanesque church in the small village of Ste Marie du Bois. We never cease to be amazed by the churches that can be found in some of these tiny places. All in all, it was a lovely day out.
So it is Friday again, our last day, and the weather has set in a little. We have to really get organised and pack our bags properly, use up, leave behind [olive oil, vinegar, etc], or dispose of the things we have accumulated [assorted containers] over our time here. We went for a last look around town and stopped in at the charcuterie for two aiguelettes de saumon – salmon set in light aspic with a little mayo and a slice of boiled egg. It was perfect with fresh baguette for lunch. That night we went out for dinner in Champlecy and toasted the end of another unforgettable trip.
Saturday saw us driving back through the beautiful country. We skirted along the edge of the Beaujolais region. Here we had a stop for about 15mins as the runners in the Marathon de Beaujolais crossed the road. Lucky we were not in a hurry. We said goodbye to our faithful little car at Lyon airport and began our long journey home.
Conclusion..
Once again France did not disappoint. We have some unforgettable memories, wonderful photos and some extra kilos. We always say that will be it for a while, but in a year or so, one of us will find the other surreptitiously looking at gites. A lot of planning and research goes into our trips, but it does reward us once we are there. All our gites this time were booked through Gites de France and we were happy with them. For us, this is a rewarding and most affordable way to travel. I have enjoyed reliving our trip once again. Please feel free to ask me any questions.
Au revoir.
Jan 9th, 2017, 06:38 PM
#42
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you so much for sharing your trip with us. It was a wonderful read! I do have a question, and it may be a difficult one.
We are planning 6 week trip to France this summer, and find that there is a great deal of overlap between our tentative plans, and your itinerary, but you have peaked my interest in some other areas as well. So my multi-part question is this:
Which area that you stayed in this time did you find the most rewarding, and why? Also, which one would you leave off if you had to eliminate one (not because it was bad, but maybe the others just spoke to you more), and why?
Sorry if I am asking for what might be too complicated an answer, so feel free to reply however you feel is appropriate. Thanks again!
Russ
We are planning 6 week trip to France this summer, and find that there is a great deal of overlap between our tentative plans, and your itinerary, but you have peaked my interest in some other areas as well. So my multi-part question is this:
Which area that you stayed in this time did you find the most rewarding, and why? Also, which one would you leave off if you had to eliminate one (not because it was bad, but maybe the others just spoke to you more), and why?
Sorry if I am asking for what might be too complicated an answer, so feel free to reply however you feel is appropriate. Thanks again!
Russ
Jan 9th, 2017, 08:57 PM
#43
With my work schedule and limited vacation time, I can make five trips out of your one glorious itinerary. Thanks so much for all the detail--it is helpful and inspiring. I am glad to read that you and your partner had a good trip.
I wish you both many more happy travels.
I wish you both many more happy travels.
Jan 9th, 2017, 09:30 PM
#44
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Loved reading your trip report.
We too love meandering around the French countryside and find that the regions are so diverse in culture, food, architecture and countryside.
We will be spending nearly 4 weeks in France again starting at the beginning of July. We always travel in Sept/Oct so this will be a very different for us. Maybe lots of fields of lavender and sun flowers.
Does your husband do all the driving? We will be renting a car as the rental time is too short for a lease but to add me as a driver will cost 9euro a day....still tossing up that one. Do you use a GPS or maps?
Do you buy an esky/cooler for your day trips? We too like to picnic buying baguettes, jambon and cheese. But feel that it will be hotter travelling in July and may have too buy as we go.
Once again thanks fro taking the time to write a very interesting and comprehensive report.
We too love meandering around the French countryside and find that the regions are so diverse in culture, food, architecture and countryside.
We will be spending nearly 4 weeks in France again starting at the beginning of July. We always travel in Sept/Oct so this will be a very different for us. Maybe lots of fields of lavender and sun flowers.
Does your husband do all the driving? We will be renting a car as the rental time is too short for a lease but to add me as a driver will cost 9euro a day....still tossing up that one. Do you use a GPS or maps?
Do you buy an esky/cooler for your day trips? We too like to picnic buying baguettes, jambon and cheese. But feel that it will be hotter travelling in July and may have too buy as we go.
Once again thanks fro taking the time to write a very interesting and comprehensive report.
Jan 10th, 2017, 02:09 AM
#45
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Aussie 10, I have read your report a few years ago and enjoyed it, so hope you have a great trip. We travel shoulder to off season, but it was warmer than we have experienced this trip , around 30 a few days in the first three weeks. Our blue Woolies cooler bag has been on every trip to France since 2006. I am sure it comes out of the cupboard every two years and thinks, yes! I am off to France again. Smelly cheese, terrine ... We freeze a couple of water bottles and empty milk bottles and it is sufficient. But as I said, we are not there in summer. We also take two green bags and a bottle bag. They weigh next to nothing. Over a ten week trip we collect some stuff. I have bought souvenir bags in France, but the square bags sit better in the car.
We have a Michelin Road Atlas and also a GPS and use both. We like to be able to look at the map and plan our days and routes, but use the GPS for parking, times, getting through larger places etc. I do not drive in France. I am a better navigator!
Russ, that question goes into the too hard basket. The Pyrenees was interesting because it was totally different from what we normally do. But we also did not get there until our sixth trip which says something , I suppose. But we enjoyed each region because they were different. In planning, we look for an itinerary that follows on easily, but also offers variety. So drop the one that does not quite fit - a little bit too far or too close to the previous week as the case may be, or is pretty much the same as the others. Our first trips were always one week in a spot and it was only in 2014 and 2016 that we have added some two week stays. It sounds as though you are leaning towards the south, so if you have not already done so, you may like to read my 2012 and 2014 reports to further confuse the matter. Click on my name and they should come up. 2012, Our own Country Roads ( includes the Gers, Aude, Aveyron )and 2014, On the Road again - Provence, l'Herault. Dordogne.
Thanks to all who have read and replied.
Happy travels in France. How can it be anything else.
We have a Michelin Road Atlas and also a GPS and use both. We like to be able to look at the map and plan our days and routes, but use the GPS for parking, times, getting through larger places etc. I do not drive in France. I am a better navigator!
Russ, that question goes into the too hard basket. The Pyrenees was interesting because it was totally different from what we normally do. But we also did not get there until our sixth trip which says something , I suppose. But we enjoyed each region because they were different. In planning, we look for an itinerary that follows on easily, but also offers variety. So drop the one that does not quite fit - a little bit too far or too close to the previous week as the case may be, or is pretty much the same as the others. Our first trips were always one week in a spot and it was only in 2014 and 2016 that we have added some two week stays. It sounds as though you are leaning towards the south, so if you have not already done so, you may like to read my 2012 and 2014 reports to further confuse the matter. Click on my name and they should come up. 2012, Our own Country Roads ( includes the Gers, Aude, Aveyron )and 2014, On the Road again - Provence, l'Herault. Dordogne.
Thanks to all who have read and replied.
Happy travels in France. How can it be anything else.
Jan 10th, 2017, 04:09 AM
#46
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,496
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Interesting to read how you feel about driving in France. I've tried driving and I'm not comfortable on the tiny roads we often take, so my husband does it all. But just in case, we decided to pay for me as a second driver in case of emergency.
I'm sorry to see this end. You always write a model trip report. I've made note of the names of your previous trip reports that you mentioned to Russ above, because what you write is practically an encyclopedia of what to see, and if we ever go where you've gone I'll look them up again.
Thank you, rhon!
I'm sorry to see this end. You always write a model trip report. I've made note of the names of your previous trip reports that you mentioned to Russ above, because what you write is practically an encyclopedia of what to see, and if we ever go where you've gone I'll look them up again.
Thank you, rhon!
Jan 10th, 2017, 07:35 AM
#47
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 964
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you so much for the reply! Finishing your first report was the sadness of coming to the end a great book, and finding the other reports was the joy of discovering that it was part of a trilogy! I've now devoured them all. 
. They have helped me greatly with my itinerary, but I'm sure I will run it past everyone here for fine tuning when I'm ready. Have fun planning your next adventure!
. They have helped me greatly with my itinerary, but I'm sure I will run it past everyone here for fine tuning when I'm ready. Have fun planning your next adventure!
Jan 10th, 2017, 02:16 PM
#49
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We have leased the last few times and the extra driver is included. But, while I can drive a manual, I do prefer automatic. I think P would find it too stressful to have me drive, but I could if I had to. Besides, I really am the better navigator!! and we do enjoy just rambling. I have the map book open and take us down scenic roads or off a side road to drive by a chateau. GPS does not do that.
Glad to be of help, Russ. I will be looking out for your trip report after you return. You will just have to return to visit the ones you drop this time. Our planning is always a work in progress for a few weeks as we decide. We had several areas this time that did not make the cut as we shuffled areas about, or decided to stay two weeks in some. They are all places we want to visit but just did not fit.
Bon voyage.
Glad to be of help, Russ. I will be looking out for your trip report after you return. You will just have to return to visit the ones you drop this time. Our planning is always a work in progress for a few weeks as we decide. We had several areas this time that did not make the cut as we shuffled areas about, or decided to stay two weeks in some. They are all places we want to visit but just did not fit.
Bon voyage.
Jan 10th, 2017, 09:21 PM
#50
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi rhon, yes I am the better navigator whilst in Europe, but when home I am the main driver. Sometimes I feel guilty if hubby does all the driving but 9euro a day for an extra driver is a bit steep. Love those scenic little roads.
I like the idea of the Woolies cool bag, may have to pack one in. We love to stop along our drives and buy a crunchy baguette, some slice meat and cheese and sit along a river or path soaking up the atmosphere.
I like the idea of the Woolies cool bag, may have to pack one in. We love to stop along our drives and buy a crunchy baguette, some slice meat and cheese and sit along a river or path soaking up the atmosphere.
Jan 11th, 2017, 01:29 AM
#53
<Finishing your first report was the sadness of coming to the end a great book, and finding the other reports was the joy of discovering that it was part of a trilogy! I've now devoured them all. >
Nicely put Russ!
>Nicely put Russ!
