italyinjuly

posted before about my early august trip. sort of settled on an itinerary. we are spending 1 night in barcelona, then boarding a cruise ship for a week, returning to barcelona and splitting our time between costa brava and barcelona.

we'll probably spend 4-5 nights in costa brava at 1 hotel. durng that time we will probably spen a few days on the beach and a few days sightseeing (girona, figueres and possibly vic). it will be me, my husband, and my then 7 month old. looking for a town that's relatively central for touring and a nice hotel either on the beach or wiht a good view. from my research i'm leaning towards tossa de mar or calella de palafrugell. thoughts?

MacSporran

Whereas Tossa is closer to Barcelona, Calella is probably my all time favourite European beach resort.
Set in a beautiful bay, it's a marvellously perfect lttle town unspoilt by tourism. It has a few superb little family beaches, perfect to potter around with a little one.
Loads of relaxed cafes, bars and classy restaurants which cater to the Spanish market. No all day breakfasts or English pubs here !
There are a few hotels in town near the beach, and I would recommend all of them.
Llafranc, Tamariu and Begur are also wonderful places to stay.
Along with Italy and my own bonnie Scotland, it's the area of Europe I love the most...I can't wait to go back (hopefully in September).
Good luck with your choice !

tower

ItalyinJuly:

Please set your sights on Cadaques...a perfectly delightful little town, The Dali House in itself is worth the visit (utterly amazing...much more interesting than the Fugueres Dali Museum IMO). We stayed ay Play del Sol...a reasonably priced hotel right on the bay...with view balconies...many little beaches nearby...
Stu T.

Maribel

italyinjuly,
I love Llafranc which is the town next to (and walkable from) Calella. These northern Costa Brava towns that MacSporran mentions are charming and far less tourist driven than Tossa. Tossa in August can be wall to wall vacationers. Calella, Llafranc, Tamariu, Aiguablava are quieter and more low key.

nessundorma

Calella da Palafrugell -- and make sure it is not just "Calella" -- would most definitely be my pick. Have you looked up its webcam on Google?

Although I enjoyed my several nights stay in stay in Cadaques at the Playa del Sol, I would not want to stay in Cadaques again because it is only accessible by a very very curvy, high mountainous road. It's tiresome to drive.

Hope you make it to Vic if you are interested in Catalonian art.

By the way, The Rough Guide to the Costa Brava is really an excellent overview of all of the towns when it comes to figuring out what you might want to see in the area.

italyinjuly

thanks everyone! i was leaning away from tossa and you confirmed my suspicions!

i had considered cadeques cas it sounds beautiful, but i had read (as nessundorma confirmed) that's tricky to get in and out of, and since we expect to make several day trips, we ruled it out (though it may be a day trip

can't find the rough guide anywhere (been to 3 book stores!), maybe i'll order it online...

thanks for all of your help (anyone else who wants to weigh in please do!), i've been waiting to see spain all my life and though we've had to tone it down a little cause of the little guy, i can't wait!

BobSwanson

Thanks to all. Your suggestions seem to be just what I'm looking for. I'll be in the area about the middle of September. Thanks again, although I didn't start this post. BS

MacSporran

Just going over this thread again, and musing about Cadaques.
We visited last year, and were actually a little disappointed with the place. I suppose that it's maybe because it's hyped in guide books, but we found it just too busy and a little too touristy. The beach was small, rocky and frankly, dirty. You have to park at a massive car park at the entrance to the village, next to the sewage processing plant....which smells like, well, a sewage processing plant.
It's an unendingly windy road to get there (which isn't the fault of the town of course),and we felt that it just didn't live up to the hype.
I'm only passing on personal comment of course, and there is a certain charm about the place, but for my money it doesn't compare with the villages of Begur, Tamariu, Llafranc and Callela (de P).
Oh, and don't miss Peretallada if you're in that area....a lovely place to spend a morning in with many nice restaurants for a long lunch.

tower

It appears like everything lese to be in the "eyes of the beholder"...both wife and I loved out stay in Cadaques...of course, it was off season as all of our travel is...we practically had the town and the Dali home to oursleves...living on the coast of California, we don't go overseas for the beaches so we didn't pay much attention to them. I still think it's a worthwhile stop if only for the Dali house...the road didn't bother us at all, by the way..great views along the way...we came down the coast from France, then drove to Figueres and Girona.
Stu T.

nessundorma

Stu,

I don't think it was a question of season because I was there off-season myself. It was a question of not enjoying the road in and out. Once I took it the first time, I cancelled my plans for day trips. It was perfectly nice to just lounge around Cadaques, and I made up for the missed touring later, but I wouldn't advise it for someone interested in taking a lot of day trips.

One of the reasons I may have tired of the road is that I had spent the previous week driving in the peaks of the Pyrenees, crisscrossing the borer, plus I took the coastal road all the way from Collioure.

I also have to admit that Salvador Dali doesn't interest me. I never went to his house or the museum in Figueres or his wife's house.

I don't know if you made it to Calella de Palafrugell, but it's not a beach. It's a smaller town than Cadaques, with a great deal of charm and lovely waterfront dining. It's also relatively convenient to a number of interesting ancient and medieval sites.

Maribel

italyinjuly,
I do agree with nessundorma about the relative merits of Cadaqués versus the Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc, Tamariu area for touring purposes. But then I have a personal preference for the Baix Empordá area, which is Catalunya's version of Tuscany.

The road to Cadaqués with its seemingly endless curves makes day tripping far more of a chore, especially in August when that road will have bumper to bumper traffic. I can't stress how slow going that journey will be then, especially on a
wkd. The wkd. August traffic in the Calella de P. area can also move at a snail's pace, but from this base it's much easier to access Girona, Vic and the enchanting medieval villages of the extinct volcanic region of La Garrotxa (Besalú and Santa Pau). And I heartily second MacSporran's recommendation of the medieval gem that is Peretallada (and also the more photo op perfect, and wealthy Pals).

If you do decide on Calella de P or Llafranc, there are some comfortable and still reasonable (even for August) well established family run hotels in both beachside towns, but many may already be filled for August, as they get quite a loyal, repeat clientele at that time. I'm almost certain that the more expensive Aiguablava Parador, Hotel Aiguablava and Far de Sant Sebastià in Llafranc are already full.

Try for availability at the following which are either facing the beach or have panoramic water views:

Hotel Llevant or Hotel Llafranch in Llafranc

Hotel Garbi or Hotel Alga in Calella de P.

Hostalillo in Tamariu

or even the cute and quite attractive Hostal Sa Rascassa in the little cove (cala) of Aiguafreda.

www.hotel-llevant.com
www.hllfranch.com
www.novarahotels.com
www.hotelgarbi.com
www.hotelhostalillo.com
www.hostalsarascassa.com
(also bookable thru www.innsofspain.com-another reliable source if you need more Baix Emporda area options)

But I would decide quickly and book your lodging ASAP!

Maribel

italyinjuly,
Forgot a very reasonably priced option in Llafranc with very good cuisine:
Hotel Casamar
www.hotelcasamar.net

nessundorma

I enjoyed my lunch in L'Escala, which also has the virtue of being next to the Roman ruins -- which I wouldn't tour in August except VERY early in the morning.

Calella de Palafrugell would still be my first choice, but how to others feel about L'Escala?

BobSwanson

Hello Nessundorma

In September I plan to start on the coast north of Barcelona and travel cross country thru the Pyrenees and end up on the NW coast before turning back. Any suggestions thru the Pyrenees (quaint villages, scenic views, local culture) that won't be terribly expensive? Or warnings?
BS

MacSporran

I think Maribel is the person to contact on this one Bob. Her Spanish information on here is fantastic, and has been a great use to many, including myself (a casual poster, but great lover of the Baix Emporda area).
IMHO, this area is one of the delightful (and relatively unknown) gems of European coastlines. So much so that when either my wife or myself read an article on this area, or see something on TV, we cringe and shout...'no, no, no. Don't tell anybody about it...it's ours !'
Good luck with your trip.

nessundorma

If you can fit San Sebastian and Hondarribia into your trip, by all means do! I suspect Hondarribia is the less expensive place to bed down, but there are bargains in San Sebastian. (I recommend skipping Bilbao.)

I mainly traveled through the French Pyrenees, and found accommodations in the towns of Aix-en-Thermes and Cauterets to be very affordable. I found Pont d'Espagne, and the many waterfalls leading up to it from Cauterets, to be fantastic in Spring. I am very sorry that I missed the Cirque Gavarnie and the Cirque de Lescun. In general, planning to get out your car and doing some walking amid the scenery and the sheep is a good idea. And drink the water! It is delicious.

Another regret I have is that I didn't go to Andorra. I have heard much of it is very unattractive, but there is something addictive about driving in those very high mountains, and so I would have liked to hit the top. Also, I have the cost of car fuel (gas, petrol, diesel) is very cheap there.

I was also told that the roads on the French side are better than those on the Spanish side, although the roads I took through the Valle di Nuria were certainly well engineered, if somewhat dizzying.

Here is a website I found extremely useful in plotting my trip:

http://www.cataloniapyrenees.com/default.asp

In this one, note the town of Rupit:

http://hiddentrails.com/europe/spain/volcano-castle.htm

Another website:

http://www.pyreneesguide.com/default.asp?zID=1

If you go through France, you can get an idea of lodging costs by using the Logis de France website

http://www.logis-de-france.fr/uk/index.htm

I found this NYTimes article by Robert Packard useful

http://tinyurl.com/kubdv

Have a grand time!

nessundorma

PS, Bob: Apart from scenic driving, a visit to the Greek and Roman ruins in Empurias on the Costa Brava was one of the highlights of my trip through region, as was my tour of the largely untouristed town of Vic, especially its jaw-dropping museum of Catalonian art. I rated it higher than Girona, but that tood is a very impressive town (filled with tourists, however).

Maribel

Hi nessandorma,
I'm not as fond of L'Escala, the anchovy town, as I am of Calella de P, Llafranc, Tamariu, Aiguablava, Aiguafreda, Sa Tuna. I find L'Escala to be far busier, more built up (there's more flat land on which to build highrises), less attractive, more heavily touristed, although I have stopped for lunch at the family Hotel Nieves Mar after touring the 1,600 yr. old Greco Roman ruins of Empúries (a fascinating site, but yes, in Aug. this would be one very hot visit, and the site doesn't open until 10!

italyinjuly,
The Begur area (low rise and low key), where the above fishing villages are located, is a classier part of the coast, particularly around Aiguablava and Sa Riera, where one will find the beautiful villas of the catalán elite clinging to the pine covered cliffs.

These "calas" (coves) are simply enchanting because there is no room to build a concrete jungle of highrises.

I forgot to mention that there are jazz concerts held at the botanical gardens of Cap Roig in Aug. And there is a delightful footpath along the coast that can be walked in 30 min. from Calella de P to Llafranc.
And from the lighthouse above Llafranc, the Faro de Sant Sebastià (you can drive or walk) you be rewarded with spectacular views.

I also forgot to mention another Calella de P. family run, traditional hotel that *may* have a vacancy for Aug., the Hotel San Roc.
www.santroc.com

For guides to this area we use the Rough Guide Costa Brava, the Lonely Planet "Catalunya and the Costa Brava" and Thomas Cook Drive Around "Catalonia and the Spanish Pyrenees"-all are excellent resources.

Maribel

Bob,
We are headed to the Pyrenees tomorrow, where we will spend a month exploring, back and forth from Spain to France. I'm not that knowledgable about the French side, except for French Catalonia and the Pays Basque, (haven't visited much of Bearn or the Midi), but I do know the Spanish side.

Your journey can be a fascinating one, if you venture off the main roads and head up to the valleys as you make your way west. This can be very time consuming, and I don't rememeber how much time you have for this trip, but once you arrive in Galicia, you may want to fly back to BCN from A Coruña. Iberia, Spanair & Air Balear fly that route. You are covering a great deal of ground!
I could spend (and have!) a lifetime exploring this area.

Some of my favorite spots in the Spanish Pyrenees:

CATALONIA:

The extinct volcanic region of La Garrotxa and medieval villages of Besalú and Santa Pau, plus the Monastery of Santa María in Ripoll and the most picturesque catalán medieval village of them all, Rupit, below Olot. (Hostal Estrella).

Camprodón, Setcases (Pensión Can Tiranda), Molló (Pensión Calitx&oacute and tiny Beget (drive there is well worth the journey).

Sanctuary of Nuria and the cogwheel train ride up to the sanctuary from Ribes or Queralbs is unforgettable!-you can camp at the top or stay at the Husa hotel (www.valldenuria.com)

Meranges (Can Borrell) and on the French side, charming, tiny Llo and from Mont-Louis, take the Petit Train Jaune, little yellow train, or Pyrenees metro, to Villefrnche-le-Confluent and back. Spanish Llivia inside French territory is also worth a visit.

The enchanting stone and slate villages and Romanesque churches of the Vall d'Aran:
Artiés (Hotel Besiberri), Salardú, Tredós, Baguergue, Escunhau.
Ditto to neighborhing Vall de Boí:
villages of Taüll, Durro, Barrera, Erill la Vall

ARAGÓN:

Mountaineering town of Benasque (lots of inexp. lodging)-love this town!

Stunning Ainsa (Mesón de l'Ainsa), then up to Bielsa (Hotel Bielsa II) and the Ordesa National Park.

In the Valle del Tena (where we'll be Sat.), from Bielsa to Sallent de Gallego.

The city of Jaca

The Valley del Hecho and 2 villages, Hecho and Ansó (Posada Magoria, Hostal Kimboa)

Sos del Rey Católico (where we'll be Tues.-birthplace of King Ferdinand)

NAVARRA:

The Roncal Valley and villages of Roncal (Casa Rural Villa Pepita) and Isaba (Hostal Lola)

The Monastery of Leyre (amazing crypt, Gregorian Chant) and gorge, Hoz de Lumbier (griffon vultures) and up the Salazar valey to the town of Ochagavia.

Pamplona

up to the village of Burguete (Hostal Burguete or a Casa Rural-pick up brochure at Tourist Office) where Hemingway went trout fishing, and Roncevalles (La Posada) , the beginning of the Spanish Road to Santiago.

From Elizondo, the capital of the Baztán Valley, the drive into Nafarroa on the French side, Pays Basque, to St.-Eitenne-de BaÏgorri and St. Jean-Pied-de-Port (although too busy for me)

For this journey, I highly, highly recommend the Michelin regional maps 574 and 573, truly indispensable, and the Rough Guide Pyrenees.

For the Costa Verde, the Cantabrian sea coast from Laredo to Ribadeo, Michelin 572-571 and Cadogan's Northern Spain plus Footprint Northern Spain, 2nd ed.

BTW, on that route in Cantabia, Asturias, Galicia, my favorite fishing villages are Comillas, Llanes, Ribadesella, Tazones, Cudillero, Luarca, Viveiro.

Now, off to pack!

BobSwanson

Thanks Maribel

I'll have 2 weeks to travel from east to west (rental car). I've already been thru Galicia. My intentions are to spend some time in the NE then travel cross country towards San Sebastian and back. Have a great trip and look forward to hearing accounts of your trip.
BS