Cornwall to Yorkshire and back again - a 5-day trip report.
May 6th, 2011, 10:48 PM
#21
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annhig: Loving your report.Really appreciate your taking the time to give us your "in country" perspective. 6 weeks until our trip to Devon and Cornwall and I've been reading your posts with interest about that area also.
How my family and I loved our 6 day trip to Yorkshire last June and your report is making me want to plan another trip. We were going to stop in Grassington as we drove through the Dales back from Sunday dinner; but my daughter was asleep in the back street and we could only keep on driving. It was a Sunday and late in the afternoon; but I was surprised at how desolate the villages seemed. It seemed that at every turn there was a pub though and I could only gaze wistfully at the people sitting outside. Will make a note of all the pubs you mention and the B and B. Have a wonderful time in Italy! That hopefully is our destination next year.
How lucky we are to be able to travel to such beautiful places.
How my family and I loved our 6 day trip to Yorkshire last June and your report is making me want to plan another trip. We were going to stop in Grassington as we drove through the Dales back from Sunday dinner; but my daughter was asleep in the back street and we could only keep on driving. It was a Sunday and late in the afternoon; but I was surprised at how desolate the villages seemed. It seemed that at every turn there was a pub though and I could only gaze wistfully at the people sitting outside. Will make a note of all the pubs you mention and the B and B. Have a wonderful time in Italy! That hopefully is our destination next year.
How lucky we are to be able to travel to such beautiful places.
May 6th, 2011, 11:34 PM
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Hi Ann,
Thanks for the information on Parcevall Hall, I haven't come across it during my research. Does look delightful and so does the Tea shop menu.
We leave in two weeks for London then head to Ampleforth around the beginning of June, getting excited after reading your post, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the information on Parcevall Hall, I haven't come across it during my research. Does look delightful and so does the Tea shop menu.
We leave in two weeks for London then head to Ampleforth around the beginning of June, getting excited after reading your post, thanks for sharing.
May 7th, 2011, 02:25 AM
#23
There ought to be a warning about travel through the area from Halifax to Leeds during rush hour. There is no easy way around it except perhaps going all the way across to the A1. Though driving through Bradford is about the worst way.
I find the Devonshire Arms very expensive and not that exciting. Other options you might have liked are the Sportsman's Arms in Wath in Nidderdale and the Far Syde in Ilkley.
I find the Devonshire Arms very expensive and not that exciting. Other options you might have liked are the Sportsman's Arms in Wath in Nidderdale and the Far Syde in Ilkley.
May 7th, 2011, 10:27 AM
#24
hi, y'all.
phew - isn't packing exhausting? added to which I decided to buy a camera [and they don't just come in "point and click" anymore do they?] a hard-drive for my laptop which I am taking with me on holiday for the first time, and to download kindle! that at least has meant that i can leave the piles of books I normally take with me at home. which leaves more room for presents when I come home.
celticmoon - I'm perhaps being a bit sniffy about Skipton, but DH had "bigged it up" so much that it was never going to be able to live up to its billing. we did find a very reasonable walking gear shop, much cheaper than at home, and we liked the canal, and the "best pork pie in the country" butcher's, but that was about it.
idesofmarch - 6 weeks till you hit Devon and cornwall? Brill. the weather so far this year has been very good, so I'll keep my fingers crossed that it continues for you. where are you staying? let me know if I can help at all with your planning!
Maudie - I'm very pleased to have been able to share Parcevall Hall with you- as it was a new one on me, i thought it might be for others.
Bilbo - thanks for the tips - i hope there's another time for us to follow them!
Now - back to the packing!
phew - isn't packing exhausting? added to which I decided to buy a camera [and they don't just come in "point and click" anymore do they?] a hard-drive for my laptop which I am taking with me on holiday for the first time, and to download kindle! that at least has meant that i can leave the piles of books I normally take with me at home. which leaves more room for presents when I come home.
celticmoon - I'm perhaps being a bit sniffy about Skipton, but DH had "bigged it up" so much that it was never going to be able to live up to its billing. we did find a very reasonable walking gear shop, much cheaper than at home, and we liked the canal, and the "best pork pie in the country" butcher's, but that was about it.
idesofmarch - 6 weeks till you hit Devon and cornwall? Brill. the weather so far this year has been very good, so I'll keep my fingers crossed that it continues for you. where are you staying? let me know if I can help at all with your planning!
Maudie - I'm very pleased to have been able to share Parcevall Hall with you- as it was a new one on me, i thought it might be for others.
Bilbo - thanks for the tips - i hope there's another time for us to follow them!
Now - back to the packing!
May 8th, 2011, 01:21 PM
#25
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Ann, please don't avoid Bradford, just stick to the ring road - but never at rush hour.
There are good reasons to visit.
http://www.bradfordmuseums.org/venue...hall/index.php
Bolling Hall is one of my all time favorites, its a museum you would never just stumble across.
Check out the same link for the art gallery Cartwright Hall in Lister Park - you might recognise the facade, it was used in the Monty Python song "Every s...m is sacred".
The Industrial Museum is also worth a looksee
All are free. It's a city with some hidden gems.
There are good reasons to visit.
http://www.bradfordmuseums.org/venue...hall/index.php
Bolling Hall is one of my all time favorites, its a museum you would never just stumble across.
Check out the same link for the art gallery Cartwright Hall in Lister Park - you might recognise the facade, it was used in the Monty Python song "Every s...m is sacred".
The Industrial Museum is also worth a looksee
All are free. It's a city with some hidden gems.
May 8th, 2011, 10:40 PM
#26
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Bradford also has the magnificent National Media Museum right in the centre - again free.
www.nationalmediamuseum.org.uk
www.nationalmediamuseum.org.uk
May 14th, 2011, 12:19 AM
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Is it just me or did Ann leave us hanging?
I do hope she comes back later and finishes the TR
Morgana-if you're in and around Bradford, the Bottomley's Arms in Shelf has wonderful food but it's packed in the evening and parking is murder - park on the road behind the pub.
Boy oh boy am I feeling homesick for some good pub grub
Are you home from Florida?
I do hope she comes back later and finishes the TR
Morgana-if you're in and around Bradford, the Bottomley's Arms in Shelf has wonderful food but it's packed in the evening and parking is murder - park on the road behind the pub.
Boy oh boy am I feeling homesick for some good pub grub
Are you home from Florida?
May 15th, 2011, 11:08 AM
#31
Hi Julia - thanks for the update on my whereabouts for Alya.
alya, I didn't mean to leave you hanging but i ran out of time to finish the TR. More when i get back.
In fact I'm still in Italy, but unlike my hotel in Orbetello, which I left with much sadness this morning, my hotel in Florence has got wifi, so with it raining outside, I've been doing some catching up - first of all my e-mails [400+, mostly rubbish] and now fodors. oh yes, and I've spoken to the family, who i think just about remember who i am.
Patrick - my family assure me that there is a song "Satnav Sally" - and google seems to agree!
if i manage to stay awake - more later.
alya, I didn't mean to leave you hanging but i ran out of time to finish the TR. More when i get back.
In fact I'm still in Italy, but unlike my hotel in Orbetello, which I left with much sadness this morning, my hotel in Florence has got wifi, so with it raining outside, I've been doing some catching up - first of all my e-mails [400+, mostly rubbish] and now fodors. oh yes, and I've spoken to the family, who i think just about remember who i am.
Patrick - my family assure me that there is a song "Satnav Sally" - and google seems to agree!
if i manage to stay awake - more later.
May 15th, 2011, 12:38 PM
#34
If you'll forgive my self-publicity, here's the link:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...in-tuscany.cfm
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...in-tuscany.cfm
May 16th, 2011, 08:01 PM
#35
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annhig: dying to read the the Italy report..with the help of a new found friend on TA who has a home in Devon,we are basing ourselves for 4 days in Totnes and 4 days near Truro. We are so spoiled for choice and as I've never been there before I haven't planned any schedules. I'd like to go to St. Ives, I'm a DuMaurier fan so would love to go to Frenchman's Creek. Is the "Lost Gardens of Heligan" worth it? Want to go up to Port Isaac as I've also hooked my daughter on Doc Martin.
Also planning on going to Greenway. I loved Christie as a kid and the setting for the house looks so lovely.
As I said I am looking at your other posts. So little is written about Devon and Cornwall that I'd love to hear any suggestions
I've been so caught up with work and getting a new job that I have not done the near exhaustive research that I usually do and am a little nervous. Our trip is Salisbury--Totnes--Truro--Bath--London.
This is my sixth trip to the UK and the least, 3 days, that I have spent in London. We have tickets to "War Horse" and plan on going to Hampton Court Palace, I think. I;ve been there a few times; but DH and DD have not and I can't wait to introduce them to it. I'd would love to go to to Leighton House; but with such limited time I'm not sure. I hear the the V&A has a new exhibit showcasing the Romantic era and some Pre-Raphaelites so perhaps I'll go there.
Sorry I'm rambling; but it is always good to "talk" to people who know what I'm rambling about. Have fun!
Also planning on going to Greenway. I loved Christie as a kid and the setting for the house looks so lovely.
As I said I am looking at your other posts. So little is written about Devon and Cornwall that I'd love to hear any suggestions
I've been so caught up with work and getting a new job that I have not done the near exhaustive research that I usually do and am a little nervous. Our trip is Salisbury--Totnes--Truro--Bath--London.
This is my sixth trip to the UK and the least, 3 days, that I have spent in London. We have tickets to "War Horse" and plan on going to Hampton Court Palace, I think. I;ve been there a few times; but DH and DD have not and I can't wait to introduce them to it. I'd would love to go to to Leighton House; but with such limited time I'm not sure. I hear the the V&A has a new exhibit showcasing the Romantic era and some Pre-Raphaelites so perhaps I'll go there.
Sorry I'm rambling; but it is always good to "talk" to people who know what I'm rambling about. Have fun!
May 16th, 2011, 09:32 PM
#36
ides - so nice to hear from a fodorite who wants to get past Exeter! we "cornovagiaiense" [a word i invented to describe in italian the inhabitants of cornwall!] we be very pleased to welcome you.
where/when exactly will you be staying? not that it makes a lot of difference as Truro is pretty central so it's easy to get to virtually everywhere in cornwall from there. will you have a car [from your desire to see Port Isaac I guess that you will].
as you are a fan of DdM, you should really go to Fowey. It's where she lived and wrote and the house that she lived in is right by the car ferry, though it's in private hands so you can't go in. Ditto the rather grander house of Menabilly just outside Fowey which is supposed to have inspired Rebecca's "Mandalay", though they do hold the occasional concert there. As for Frenchman's creek, I'm not sure that it was based on a specific one, more the idea of it. you can walk all the way round what is called the "Hall Walk" in Fowey - you cross over the river by the car ferry, follow the footpaths as close to the water as you can get, and end up in Polruan [or not!] and get the passenger ferry back. no time pressure as it runs to 11pm, if you get lost.
if you don't want to go that far, you can also walk around some creeks and beaches on the Helford river, which is a little closer at hand for someone staying in Truro. also you can do a lovely trip by getting the train/bus from Truro to Falmouth, [my favourite two in Cornwall] then getting a boat back up the river, stopping off at Trelissick [a great National trust garden] then the boat again right back into Truro.
IMHO Heiigan is definitely worth it, it is several gardens in one and beautifully kept. the kitchen garden in full summer is a sight to behold, but they have other treasures too - for example when i went with my mother over easter, there was a handkerchief tree in full bloom, which was fantastic. and as well there is a jungle area which is vast and full of exotic plants. Let me know when you are going and if I can, I might just come with you!
Depending on the time of year [I'm assuming summer] you may want to think about visiting St Ives one evening rather than during the day, as it gets VERY crowded, or again, going on the train though that gets crowded too. Ditto Port Isaac, [though no train, only buses if you are public transport, in which case you need to set out now as they are not very frequent] due to doc Martin.
hope that helps a bit. if you'd like to hook up with another fodorite during your journey, or go into more detail about your plans, my work e-mail is [email protected]
good luck and welcome to cornwall.
where/when exactly will you be staying? not that it makes a lot of difference as Truro is pretty central so it's easy to get to virtually everywhere in cornwall from there. will you have a car [from your desire to see Port Isaac I guess that you will].
as you are a fan of DdM, you should really go to Fowey. It's where she lived and wrote and the house that she lived in is right by the car ferry, though it's in private hands so you can't go in. Ditto the rather grander house of Menabilly just outside Fowey which is supposed to have inspired Rebecca's "Mandalay", though they do hold the occasional concert there. As for Frenchman's creek, I'm not sure that it was based on a specific one, more the idea of it. you can walk all the way round what is called the "Hall Walk" in Fowey - you cross over the river by the car ferry, follow the footpaths as close to the water as you can get, and end up in Polruan [or not!] and get the passenger ferry back. no time pressure as it runs to 11pm, if you get lost.
if you don't want to go that far, you can also walk around some creeks and beaches on the Helford river, which is a little closer at hand for someone staying in Truro. also you can do a lovely trip by getting the train/bus from Truro to Falmouth, [my favourite two in Cornwall] then getting a boat back up the river, stopping off at Trelissick [a great National trust garden] then the boat again right back into Truro.
IMHO Heiigan is definitely worth it, it is several gardens in one and beautifully kept. the kitchen garden in full summer is a sight to behold, but they have other treasures too - for example when i went with my mother over easter, there was a handkerchief tree in full bloom, which was fantastic. and as well there is a jungle area which is vast and full of exotic plants. Let me know when you are going and if I can, I might just come with you!
Depending on the time of year [I'm assuming summer] you may want to think about visiting St Ives one evening rather than during the day, as it gets VERY crowded, or again, going on the train though that gets crowded too. Ditto Port Isaac, [though no train, only buses if you are public transport, in which case you need to set out now as they are not very frequent] due to doc Martin.
hope that helps a bit. if you'd like to hook up with another fodorite during your journey, or go into more detail about your plans, my work e-mail is [email protected]
good luck and welcome to cornwall.
May 22nd, 2011, 11:54 AM
#37
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Hi Annhig, thanks for your reply. We are staying on a farm near Zelah. I did pick it for the central location even though I was tempted to stay in some cottages that were more sea based; but my husband, the driver, gets a little nervous about parking.
We've thought about taking the train to St. Ives; but then we wouldn't have the car to go anywhere else, so perhaps we will look at that plan again. I have certainly read about the crowds and will be traveling in the middle of June and hope it won't be as bad as July and August. A suggestion for a pub lunch in St. Ives? I read an article about the Sloop Inn. We aren't foodies; but like good food and good beer; but going to the well-known restaurants isn't a big deal. Lovely views are nice too.
I'm not so big on sea bathing; but love watching the sea and the scenery there looks amazing. Can't wait.
Great suggestion about how to get to Falmouth..Really want to do that and I've read about a Family bus/train pass that might be worth it. Should we visit Charlestown?
So I'm assuming there's parking at Port Isaac? Or will that be an issue?
Thanks for your advice.
We've thought about taking the train to St. Ives; but then we wouldn't have the car to go anywhere else, so perhaps we will look at that plan again. I have certainly read about the crowds and will be traveling in the middle of June and hope it won't be as bad as July and August. A suggestion for a pub lunch in St. Ives? I read an article about the Sloop Inn. We aren't foodies; but like good food and good beer; but going to the well-known restaurants isn't a big deal. Lovely views are nice too.
I'm not so big on sea bathing; but love watching the sea and the scenery there looks amazing. Can't wait.
Great suggestion about how to get to Falmouth..Really want to do that and I've read about a Family bus/train pass that might be worth it. Should we visit Charlestown?
So I'm assuming there's parking at Port Isaac? Or will that be an issue?
Thanks for your advice.
Jun 11th, 2011, 01:39 PM
#38
hi, ides,
sorry not to have replied to your most recent message - I missed it somehow.
for all i know you're already here!
ref st. Ives, there are lots of good restaurants there, especially the trend cafes by the beaches; i would not personally eat at the Sloop. if you take your car, park in the station car park if you can and walk down into town. once you've had enough, follow the coast road down towards Lands end, stopping off at the Gurnard's Head pub en route - great food and a lovely if wild spot.
in the opposite direction, of course you can park in Port Isaac, but not easily! in June you should be ok.
given the time you've got, Charlestown would not be at the top of my list.
hope you get this in time to read it before you leave,
best wishes,
Ann
sorry not to have replied to your most recent message - I missed it somehow.
for all i know you're already here!
ref st. Ives, there are lots of good restaurants there, especially the trend cafes by the beaches; i would not personally eat at the Sloop. if you take your car, park in the station car park if you can and walk down into town. once you've had enough, follow the coast road down towards Lands end, stopping off at the Gurnard's Head pub en route - great food and a lovely if wild spot.
in the opposite direction, of course you can park in Port Isaac, but not easily! in June you should be ok.
given the time you've got, Charlestown would not be at the top of my list.
hope you get this in time to read it before you leave,
best wishes,
Ann
Jun 11th, 2011, 02:16 PM
#39
ok - back to the trip report.
Dr. Who was, well, Dr. Who ish, but that's what DS likes about it.
DH was a bit "tired and emotional" after the match [and after what came after the match!] and didn't fancy anything to eat, so DS and I went up to the town togged some supper, to find it absolutely heaving. we ended up having a meal at the pub we'd been to on the first night, known locally as the Forries, [the Forester's Arms, get it?] which was fine, though the service was a bit slow. by the time we got to the pud, DH had come up to join us, so we were able to walk back down to the B&B for the last time together, which was nice.
Amazingly DS had actually done his packing before breakfast [well, almost] and after the usual great spread, we said a sad farewell to Grassington, and set off for Wales. According to the satnav we had about a 5 hour drive ahead of us, but we were keen to stop and have a look at things on the way, though we were slightly hampered by the fact that we didn't know what there was going to be to look at.
in the end we didn't really stop until we were well into Wales, and I can't even remember where is was, though it was extremely popular - the pub was heaving with locals having sunday lunch. as we thought we'd be eating a proper meal in Aberystwyth we didn't - which turned out to be a mistake, as you will later discover, dear reader, if you keep reading.
Anyway we kept going over hill and dale, and eventually we found ourselves driving down into Aberystwyth, which turned out to be exactly what i had imagined - a great crescent of georgian hotels and other buildings, some in rather better condition than others, facing out onto the bay and the beach. we soon booked into the Marine hotel where i had reserved a double facing the sea of us [lovely but very hot due to the unseasonal hot weather] and a single for DS which in typical fashion he couldn't find for ages, as it turned out to be weirdly between floors somehow.
anyway it was time to go out and explore the town, which turned out to be rather less entrancing than its position had promised, and which led to DH telling me he'd told me so and why were we staying there anyway. Not a good start. but it seemed a shame not to take advantage of the fact that we were staying in a hotel right on the beach and the sun was shining, so with some trepidation, we went for a swim - but not for long. whilst the air was warm, the sea was not. Brrr.
after warming up in the huge jaccuzi bath in our room, we all had a nap, which meant that we were too late for dinner in the hotel [they stopped serving at 8pm, which i felt was somewhat early for a saturday night, and might usefully have been mentioned by reception when we booked in] so we went out to try to find somewhere in the town. and ended up with pizza in the bar on the pier. Yes, Aberystwyth still has a pier. actually the pizzas weren't bad, and afterwards DS claims that he had a great time at the karaoke! we went for a wander and ended up having excellent coffee in the snooker hall at the end of the pier watching the world championship from Sheffield on the box, before retiring to our 4 poster bed for the night.
next morning, after a less than stellar breakfast [though it was probably unfair to compare it with the wonderful feasts served up in Grassington] we pootled down the road to Lampeter, delivered DS to his hall of residence, helped him make order out of the chaos reigning in his room, and headed for home. Even though it was a bank holiday, there was no need to worry about the traffic - they were all headed home in the opposite direction.
Dr. Who was, well, Dr. Who ish, but that's what DS likes about it.
DH was a bit "tired and emotional" after the match [and after what came after the match!] and didn't fancy anything to eat, so DS and I went up to the town togged some supper, to find it absolutely heaving. we ended up having a meal at the pub we'd been to on the first night, known locally as the Forries, [the Forester's Arms, get it?] which was fine, though the service was a bit slow. by the time we got to the pud, DH had come up to join us, so we were able to walk back down to the B&B for the last time together, which was nice.
Amazingly DS had actually done his packing before breakfast [well, almost] and after the usual great spread, we said a sad farewell to Grassington, and set off for Wales. According to the satnav we had about a 5 hour drive ahead of us, but we were keen to stop and have a look at things on the way, though we were slightly hampered by the fact that we didn't know what there was going to be to look at.
in the end we didn't really stop until we were well into Wales, and I can't even remember where is was, though it was extremely popular - the pub was heaving with locals having sunday lunch. as we thought we'd be eating a proper meal in Aberystwyth we didn't - which turned out to be a mistake, as you will later discover, dear reader, if you keep reading.
Anyway we kept going over hill and dale, and eventually we found ourselves driving down into Aberystwyth, which turned out to be exactly what i had imagined - a great crescent of georgian hotels and other buildings, some in rather better condition than others, facing out onto the bay and the beach. we soon booked into the Marine hotel where i had reserved a double facing the sea of us [lovely but very hot due to the unseasonal hot weather] and a single for DS which in typical fashion he couldn't find for ages, as it turned out to be weirdly between floors somehow.
anyway it was time to go out and explore the town, which turned out to be rather less entrancing than its position had promised, and which led to DH telling me he'd told me so and why were we staying there anyway. Not a good start. but it seemed a shame not to take advantage of the fact that we were staying in a hotel right on the beach and the sun was shining, so with some trepidation, we went for a swim - but not for long. whilst the air was warm, the sea was not. Brrr.
after warming up in the huge jaccuzi bath in our room, we all had a nap, which meant that we were too late for dinner in the hotel [they stopped serving at 8pm, which i felt was somewhat early for a saturday night, and might usefully have been mentioned by reception when we booked in] so we went out to try to find somewhere in the town. and ended up with pizza in the bar on the pier. Yes, Aberystwyth still has a pier. actually the pizzas weren't bad, and afterwards DS claims that he had a great time at the karaoke! we went for a wander and ended up having excellent coffee in the snooker hall at the end of the pier watching the world championship from Sheffield on the box, before retiring to our 4 poster bed for the night.
next morning, after a less than stellar breakfast [though it was probably unfair to compare it with the wonderful feasts served up in Grassington] we pootled down the road to Lampeter, delivered DS to his hall of residence, helped him make order out of the chaos reigning in his room, and headed for home. Even though it was a bank holiday, there was no need to worry about the traffic - they were all headed home in the opposite direction.
Jun 11th, 2011, 02:28 PM
#40
VERDICT
Yorkshire was surprisingly easy to get to in a day from Cornwall, and would have been even easier if we'd not hit Bradford just at the time all Bradfordians were going home for their tea and fix of Corrie. We should have used the satnav - that's what it's for.
Grassington makes a great base and I'd be very happy to stay there again, and in the same B&B. My only grouse would be that it's a bit out of the town but it only takes 10 minutes or so to walk up there [15 if you're feeling very tired after a long walk]. sadly Redruth were demoted to the next league down despite their fantastic efforts over this weekend, so we won't be going up to support them at Wharfdale for a while, but if we can fit in another weekend up there, we will.
the drive from Grassington to Wales. I wish I'd done more research on the route and what to see on the way. i meant to but it just didn't happen. i will another time [if there is one, I'd like to explore this region more].
Aberystwyth. been there, won't go again. Aberaeron, just down the coast, is lovely and that's where we will stay next time we have to transport DS to or from uni; he comes home this week and difficult though it is to believe, one year has gone by already. only two to go.
Yorkshire was surprisingly easy to get to in a day from Cornwall, and would have been even easier if we'd not hit Bradford just at the time all Bradfordians were going home for their tea and fix of Corrie. We should have used the satnav - that's what it's for.
Grassington makes a great base and I'd be very happy to stay there again, and in the same B&B. My only grouse would be that it's a bit out of the town but it only takes 10 minutes or so to walk up there [15 if you're feeling very tired after a long walk]. sadly Redruth were demoted to the next league down despite their fantastic efforts over this weekend, so we won't be going up to support them at Wharfdale for a while, but if we can fit in another weekend up there, we will.
the drive from Grassington to Wales. I wish I'd done more research on the route and what to see on the way. i meant to but it just didn't happen. i will another time [if there is one, I'd like to explore this region more].
Aberystwyth. been there, won't go again. Aberaeron, just down the coast, is lovely and that's where we will stay next time we have to transport DS to or from uni; he comes home this week and difficult though it is to believe, one year has gone by already. only two to go.
