Cordoba Day Trip Itineray
Oct 28th, 2023, 11:39 PM
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Cordoba Day Trip Itineray
Hi all,
I am planning our day trips from Sevilla and thought I would start with Cordoba since this seems to be a "must-see"! There is so much amazing advice on this forum about Cordoba; I know I am going to wish we spent a couple of nights there but we will only be taking a day trip.
For mid-December, with our 23-year-old, we have a couple of options:
We could take a tour from "Welcome to Seville" -- is this the official tourism office? https://welcometoseville.com/tour/se...doba-day-trip/
Or, looking at roundtrip train tickets, it appears the cost is 56 euro per person to depart at 8:30 am and return on a 17.54 train. Does that price and time seem right? The Alsa bus is $38 euro round trip but takes 2 hours each way.
We could tour the Palacio de Viana, then go to Juderia for lunch and exploring, see some of the same sights mentioned above on our own, then tour the Mezquita. Take the train back to Sevilla.
There are several walking tours offered.
I'd love your thoughts on the best way to do a Day Trip to Cordoba and what to see.
Thank you!
PS. Forgive the typo in the heading. I can't seem to edit it to spell itinerary correctly.
I am planning our day trips from Sevilla and thought I would start with Cordoba since this seems to be a "must-see"! There is so much amazing advice on this forum about Cordoba; I know I am going to wish we spent a couple of nights there but we will only be taking a day trip.
For mid-December, with our 23-year-old, we have a couple of options:
We could take a tour from "Welcome to Seville" -- is this the official tourism office? https://welcometoseville.com/tour/se...doba-day-trip/
- Private transport from Seville (Round trip). Transportation by van or minibus of our company.
- Guided walking tour in the city of Cordoba, the Roman Temple and Bridge, the Calahorra Tower, Plaza de la Corredera, Plaza de las Tendillas, and explore some of the patios
- Access to the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba and the Synagogue
- 99 euro per person
Or, looking at roundtrip train tickets, it appears the cost is 56 euro per person to depart at 8:30 am and return on a 17.54 train. Does that price and time seem right? The Alsa bus is $38 euro round trip but takes 2 hours each way.
We could tour the Palacio de Viana, then go to Juderia for lunch and exploring, see some of the same sights mentioned above on our own, then tour the Mezquita. Take the train back to Sevilla.
There are several walking tours offered.
I'd love your thoughts on the best way to do a Day Trip to Cordoba and what to see.
Thank you!
PS. Forgive the typo in the heading. I can't seem to edit it to spell itinerary correctly.
Oct 29th, 2023, 12:25 AM
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lrice,
What is your exact date for the Córdoba day trip?
The day trip by Welcome to Seville excursion would be a longer journey, as it will be by minibus rather than high speed rail, so longer sitting in the minivan or minibus. The Alsa bus also requires 4 hours of sitting round trip.
By train:
I checked Dec. 19. The round-trip non-refundable, non-changeable "basic" AVE train tickets, 8:32 departure and 17:54 return, will cost 68.40/p on www.renfe.com if purchased today. This is what I see. But you may plan to go on a different date? The AVE fares change depending on your specific date.
You could save a bit of money, 8 euros/p by taking the 8:03 Alvia train rather than the 8:32 AVE. The ride takes about an hour. But you may not want to depart that early.
If you can wait until a week before departure, and if you're willing to arrive in the city earlier & stay in the city later,
on www.renfe.com (or trainline, I imagine), Renfe will load their less expensive AVANT fares.
These AVANT trains do not go on to Madrid, and fares do not change. Renfe doesn't load them now, months in advance, but waits, hoping that people who plan ahead will opt for the more expensive AVE fares. The AVANT ride takes the same amount of time, 47 minutes.
When checking for a week from today, Sunday, Nov. 5, I see an AVANT departing at 8:00 and an AVANT returning at 19:27, with a round-trip fare of 35.70.
This is a money saver, but it does require you to leave and return at less convenient times.
edit: When I checked Nov. 2, I see an AVANT departure at 17:52 as well as the later AVANT. And there are seats available for Nov. 2, just 4 days from today. The AVANT departures in late afternoon seem to change from day to day.....that's Renfe!
When I go to Córdoba from Sevilla Santa Justa on a day trip, I don´t purchase my tickets way ahead but wait until the AVANT fares become available and just go earlier and return later, but I have lots of flexibility that you don´t perhaps have.
And I do it myself, purchasing my Mezquite-Cathedral tickets upon arrival, rent the audio guide, stroll around the Jewish Quarter, walk across the Roman bridge, visit a museum, have lunch at Garum 2.1 in the historic quarter or another restaurant outside of the "souk" and walk or taxi to the Palacio de Viana. But again, I've done this many times over many years so I know my way around.
And I avoid going on Sunday (truncated monument hours) or Monday (some monument closures, like the Palacio de Viana). Tues/Wed/Thurs works best for me.
https://www.turismodecordoba.org/hor...ntos-y-museos#
What is your exact date for the Córdoba day trip?
The day trip by Welcome to Seville excursion would be a longer journey, as it will be by minibus rather than high speed rail, so longer sitting in the minivan or minibus. The Alsa bus also requires 4 hours of sitting round trip.
By train:
I checked Dec. 19. The round-trip non-refundable, non-changeable "basic" AVE train tickets, 8:32 departure and 17:54 return, will cost 68.40/p on www.renfe.com if purchased today. This is what I see. But you may plan to go on a different date? The AVE fares change depending on your specific date.
You could save a bit of money, 8 euros/p by taking the 8:03 Alvia train rather than the 8:32 AVE. The ride takes about an hour. But you may not want to depart that early.
If you can wait until a week before departure, and if you're willing to arrive in the city earlier & stay in the city later,
on www.renfe.com (or trainline, I imagine), Renfe will load their less expensive AVANT fares.
These AVANT trains do not go on to Madrid, and fares do not change. Renfe doesn't load them now, months in advance, but waits, hoping that people who plan ahead will opt for the more expensive AVE fares. The AVANT ride takes the same amount of time, 47 minutes.
When checking for a week from today, Sunday, Nov. 5, I see an AVANT departing at 8:00 and an AVANT returning at 19:27, with a round-trip fare of 35.70.
This is a money saver, but it does require you to leave and return at less convenient times.
edit: When I checked Nov. 2, I see an AVANT departure at 17:52 as well as the later AVANT. And there are seats available for Nov. 2, just 4 days from today. The AVANT departures in late afternoon seem to change from day to day.....that's Renfe!
When I go to Córdoba from Sevilla Santa Justa on a day trip, I don´t purchase my tickets way ahead but wait until the AVANT fares become available and just go earlier and return later, but I have lots of flexibility that you don´t perhaps have.
And I do it myself, purchasing my Mezquite-Cathedral tickets upon arrival, rent the audio guide, stroll around the Jewish Quarter, walk across the Roman bridge, visit a museum, have lunch at Garum 2.1 in the historic quarter or another restaurant outside of the "souk" and walk or taxi to the Palacio de Viana. But again, I've done this many times over many years so I know my way around.
And I avoid going on Sunday (truncated monument hours) or Monday (some monument closures, like the Palacio de Viana). Tues/Wed/Thurs works best for me.
https://www.turismodecordoba.org/hor...ntos-y-museos#
Last edited by Maribel; Oct 29th, 2023 at 01:10 AM.
Oct 30th, 2023, 10:55 AM
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Palacio de Viana is ok, a bit somnambulistic. Dusty and tired looking.
Aside from the Mezquita, your day in Cordoba should be walking around, visiting the two house museums (casa de Sefarad and Casa Andalusi), the synagogue, Zoco Municipal, and generally the Jewish Quarter. The Alcazar. See what kind of patios tour you can take. There are many picturesque alleyways (callejas). Stroll through the Plaza de la Corredera. Cross the roman bridge to the tower on the opposite bank of the river. See the ruins of the Medina Azahara outside of Cordoba. The tourism office organizes a shuttle.
Aside from the Mezquita, your day in Cordoba should be walking around, visiting the two house museums (casa de Sefarad and Casa Andalusi), the synagogue, Zoco Municipal, and generally the Jewish Quarter. The Alcazar. See what kind of patios tour you can take. There are many picturesque alleyways (callejas). Stroll through the Plaza de la Corredera. Cross the roman bridge to the tower on the opposite bank of the river. See the ruins of the Medina Azahara outside of Cordoba. The tourism office organizes a shuttle.
Oct 30th, 2023, 11:43 AM
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I didn't find Palacio de Viana, downstairs, dusty and tired looking, sonambulistic at all, as I enjoyed strolling among the well kept 12 interconnecting patios, the gardens (there was a special art exhibit), the kitchen and the stables, but I didn't tour the upper palace rooms, which are antique-filled.
(the Casa de Pilatos in Sevilla, on the other hand, in comparison to the Palacio de Liria did look tired looking and in need of restoration or better upkeep--but each person's eyes see things differently)
The synagogue is tiny and will take seconds to see, the Casa de Sefarad I found interesting, tracing the city's Jewish history, and the Zoco, interesting if you want to purchase a typical Cordoban piece of handicraft, such as the cuero repujado, tooled leather works (I still have a tooled leather jewelry box I bought in the 80s purchased at Meryan on the Callejas de las Flores, profiled in the NYTimes ages ago) or the silver filigree jewelry, typical of the city.
https://www.turismodecordoba.org/cra...-cordoba-spain
In December, there are no patio tours that you can take. There will be 4 patios open to the public in the San Basilio quarter (beyond the Caballerizas Reales and the Alcázar), but in December they will not be particularly interesting and to me, really not worth the effort. There is one, at number 20 San Basilio, that in the back houses a jewelry store, "Plata Cordobesa", featuring the famous Cordoban filigree jewelry, but I found that San Basilio patio visiting in early March underwhelming. One is asked to leave some change in the basket at the front when visiting these patios. But since this is your first visit to the city, you may want to see one of these, open in winter to the public, but again, you can tour on your own, just go down Calle San Basilio and enter any open patio, best done during the morning.
About the Alcázar and its gardens: currently tickets are available online OR at the kiosk in the park across from the Alcázar, where lines can be long or at automatic ticket booths. I was there in March. Everyone who didn't purchase tickets online, purchased them at the kiosk across the street--the lines on a Sunday morning were fairly long.
https://museosdecordoba.sacatuentrada.es/en
On the other hand, the Calleja de las Flores, to me, was bit overrated, a tiny alley, that everyone who visits the city goes to photo, as from this geranium-filled alley one gets a picture postcard of the Mesquita/Cathedral in the distance. This is Córdoba's famous "calleja".
The tourist office does organize a shuttle, once a day, to the ruins of Medina Azahara, and bus tickets must be purchased online or at a tourist office, not on the bus. The bus ticket costs 9 euros, but there is a discount if purchased online. The departure point is on the Paseo de la Victoria, across from the Mercado de la Victoria and departs at and the ride takes only 20 minutes.
https://www.turismodecordoba.org/dai...ahara-cordoba#
But just to note..... for a day excursion from Sevilla, you would be sacrificing a great deal of time to venture to Medina Azahara unless there is a compelling reason, and would shortchange the monumental visits in the city----unless you plan a very long day in the city.
Portrait and in general, art lovers may want to visit the Museo Julio Romero de Torres, the city's famous portrait artist. It's an easy see and next to the archaeological museum. His female portraits I find fascinating, and one, his muse, María Teresa López of the portrait "La Fuensanta", is my avatar.
(the Casa de Pilatos in Sevilla, on the other hand, in comparison to the Palacio de Liria did look tired looking and in need of restoration or better upkeep--but each person's eyes see things differently)
The synagogue is tiny and will take seconds to see, the Casa de Sefarad I found interesting, tracing the city's Jewish history, and the Zoco, interesting if you want to purchase a typical Cordoban piece of handicraft, such as the cuero repujado, tooled leather works (I still have a tooled leather jewelry box I bought in the 80s purchased at Meryan on the Callejas de las Flores, profiled in the NYTimes ages ago) or the silver filigree jewelry, typical of the city.
https://www.turismodecordoba.org/cra...-cordoba-spain
In December, there are no patio tours that you can take. There will be 4 patios open to the public in the San Basilio quarter (beyond the Caballerizas Reales and the Alcázar), but in December they will not be particularly interesting and to me, really not worth the effort. There is one, at number 20 San Basilio, that in the back houses a jewelry store, "Plata Cordobesa", featuring the famous Cordoban filigree jewelry, but I found that San Basilio patio visiting in early March underwhelming. One is asked to leave some change in the basket at the front when visiting these patios. But since this is your first visit to the city, you may want to see one of these, open in winter to the public, but again, you can tour on your own, just go down Calle San Basilio and enter any open patio, best done during the morning.
About the Alcázar and its gardens: currently tickets are available online OR at the kiosk in the park across from the Alcázar, where lines can be long or at automatic ticket booths. I was there in March. Everyone who didn't purchase tickets online, purchased them at the kiosk across the street--the lines on a Sunday morning were fairly long.
https://museosdecordoba.sacatuentrada.es/en
On the other hand, the Calleja de las Flores, to me, was bit overrated, a tiny alley, that everyone who visits the city goes to photo, as from this geranium-filled alley one gets a picture postcard of the Mesquita/Cathedral in the distance. This is Córdoba's famous "calleja".
The tourist office does organize a shuttle, once a day, to the ruins of Medina Azahara, and bus tickets must be purchased online or at a tourist office, not on the bus. The bus ticket costs 9 euros, but there is a discount if purchased online. The departure point is on the Paseo de la Victoria, across from the Mercado de la Victoria and departs at and the ride takes only 20 minutes.
https://www.turismodecordoba.org/dai...ahara-cordoba#
But just to note..... for a day excursion from Sevilla, you would be sacrificing a great deal of time to venture to Medina Azahara unless there is a compelling reason, and would shortchange the monumental visits in the city----unless you plan a very long day in the city.
Portrait and in general, art lovers may want to visit the Museo Julio Romero de Torres, the city's famous portrait artist. It's an easy see and next to the archaeological museum. His female portraits I find fascinating, and one, his muse, María Teresa López of the portrait "La Fuensanta", is my avatar.
Last edited by Maribel; Oct 30th, 2023 at 12:11 PM.
Oct 30th, 2023, 03:49 PM
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correction; I meant to compare in beauty and upkeep Sevilla's Casa de Pilatos to Sevilla's Palacio de las Dueñas, the Duchess of Alba´s former elegant residence. Her Madrid residence is the Palacio de Liria.
Oct 31st, 2023, 06:48 AM
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I remember 17 patios at Viana, but I may have lost count...
I am fascinated by the paintings of Julio Romero de Torres, 'favorite son' artist of Cordoba. I would have mentioned the museum earlier, but I admit not everyone will agree. He went through a Symbolist period that you can see in the Circuleo, which is historic, but it is mostly a private club and event space. You can visit if no events are going on, but will be of limited interest to most folks.
I am fascinated by the paintings of Julio Romero de Torres, 'favorite son' artist of Cordoba. I would have mentioned the museum earlier, but I admit not everyone will agree. He went through a Symbolist period that you can see in the Circuleo, which is historic, but it is mostly a private club and event space. You can visit if no events are going on, but will be of limited interest to most folks.
Oct 31st, 2023, 06:55 AM
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There are 12, says all the info.
Glad you enjoy the paintings of Julio Romero de Torres. He has always fascinated me too. I'm a big fan. Another of his female portraits that I love is "la Chiquita Piconera", again, his muse, María Teresa López. One can't take photos inside the museum, but it's a very easy see. It's closed on Mondays. https://museojulioromero.cordoba.es
Glad you enjoy the paintings of Julio Romero de Torres. He has always fascinated me too. I'm a big fan. Another of his female portraits that I love is "la Chiquita Piconera", again, his muse, María Teresa López. One can't take photos inside the museum, but it's a very easy see. It's closed on Mondays. https://museojulioromero.cordoba.es
Last edited by Maribel; Oct 31st, 2023 at 07:00 AM.
Oct 31st, 2023, 03:09 PM
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Thanks Maribel and shelemm! We will go on a weekday (not Monday) or a Saturday in mid-to-late December. Probably a Saturday because my daughter will have to work at about 2:00 pm/14.00 to align with the US East Coast unless she has some days off.
We will wait for the AVANT train tickets. We also will buy our Mezquite-Cathedral a day or two in advance so we can avoid the line.
Do we need reservations for lunch in the historic quarter?
Also, what is the souk?
We will wait for the AVANT train tickets. We also will buy our Mezquite-Cathedral a day or two in advance so we can avoid the line.
Do we need reservations for lunch in the historic quarter?
Also, what is the souk?
Nov 1st, 2023, 12:37 AM
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lrice,
Lunch reservations-----probably not, but it depends really on where you want to have lunch (price, menu, location) in the historic quarter.
Casa Pepe de la Judería, which is very handy to the Mezquita/Catedral, and thus gets very busy at the lunch hour, as it's in many guides, has a Repsol sun, comes Michelin recommended and serves typical Cordoban dishes in its attractive upstairs dining room. I remember that your daughter is vegetarian, and there are a few (but not many) vegetarian options on the menu.
CARTA-CASA-PEPE_MARZO-1.pdf
If you want to remove yourselves a bit from the "souk" (I mean the myriad souvenir shops that you'll find surrounding the Mezquita-Catedral), you can walk a bit further to the equally attractive Bodegas Campos, and have lunch there in the taberna. Again, it serves typical Andalusian dishes, like fried eggplant with honey, gazpacho. Here's the English menu-
carta_ingles.pdf
If you want more creative/updated, less traditional, there's Regadera on the Ronda de Isaa, the river walk (also Repsol guide recommended), & also handy
https://www.regadera.es
or.... just down that street, Amaltea, which is very vegetarian friendly and also Repsol recommended.
https://www.amaltea.es
I've just mentioned these spots because they are all super handy for a limited time day trip and don't require tasting menus and are visitor friendly.
Lunch reservations-----probably not, but it depends really on where you want to have lunch (price, menu, location) in the historic quarter.
Casa Pepe de la Judería, which is very handy to the Mezquita/Catedral, and thus gets very busy at the lunch hour, as it's in many guides, has a Repsol sun, comes Michelin recommended and serves typical Cordoban dishes in its attractive upstairs dining room. I remember that your daughter is vegetarian, and there are a few (but not many) vegetarian options on the menu.
CARTA-CASA-PEPE_MARZO-1.pdf
If you want to remove yourselves a bit from the "souk" (I mean the myriad souvenir shops that you'll find surrounding the Mezquita-Catedral), you can walk a bit further to the equally attractive Bodegas Campos, and have lunch there in the taberna. Again, it serves typical Andalusian dishes, like fried eggplant with honey, gazpacho. Here's the English menu-
carta_ingles.pdf
If you want more creative/updated, less traditional, there's Regadera on the Ronda de Isaa, the river walk (also Repsol guide recommended), & also handy
https://www.regadera.es
or.... just down that street, Amaltea, which is very vegetarian friendly and also Repsol recommended.
https://www.amaltea.es
I've just mentioned these spots because they are all super handy for a limited time day trip and don't require tasting menus and are visitor friendly.
Nov 2nd, 2023, 11:28 PM
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What I wrote about Casa Pepe in eskcrunchy's thread:
"I've been several times, most recently before meeting you, alone, just for tapas at the marble bar, where the bar server ignored me for a long time while chatting with his local friends.
I've also eaten in the lovely upstairs dining room(s) with American friends on a day trip to the city. I chose it because I had a limited time to show them the sights, couldn't venture too far afield, and I wanted them to try typical Córdoba dishes that the restaurant does quite well.
We sat upstairs in atmospheric surroundings, with good service. They enjoyed it."
What I wrote about Taberna San Miguel Casa el Pisto on another thread:
And I usually suggest that when in Córdoba, as a contrast to contemporary fare, one should try to dine once at a typical, atmospheric, locally popular, classic taberna with flower-filled inner courtyard, again, away from the crowds of the Judería.For this, the historic, 19th century Taberna San Miguel Casa el Piso sits on a pretty little square, la Plaza de San Miguel, is now in its fourth generation of the same family, is very popular and serves the local Montilla Moriles wines. The King's sister, on her recent visit, dined there and also at the Ermita de la Candelaria. Here you can taste typical Córdoban specialties like eggplant with cane honey (berenjenas con miel), ox tail stew (rabo de toro), salmorejo (the thick gazpacho topped with slivers of Iberian ham), ajo blanco (cold almond soup), flamenquines, pisto, the local version of ratatouille, alcachofas a la montillana (artichokes cooked in the local Montilla-Moriles wine). cocido croquettes, etc. It was recently bestowed with a Repsol Guide “solete”.
https://www.casaelpisto.com
"I've been several times, most recently before meeting you, alone, just for tapas at the marble bar, where the bar server ignored me for a long time while chatting with his local friends.
I've also eaten in the lovely upstairs dining room(s) with American friends on a day trip to the city. I chose it because I had a limited time to show them the sights, couldn't venture too far afield, and I wanted them to try typical Córdoba dishes that the restaurant does quite well.
We sat upstairs in atmospheric surroundings, with good service. They enjoyed it."
What I wrote about Taberna San Miguel Casa el Pisto on another thread:
And I usually suggest that when in Córdoba, as a contrast to contemporary fare, one should try to dine once at a typical, atmospheric, locally popular, classic taberna with flower-filled inner courtyard, again, away from the crowds of the Judería.For this, the historic, 19th century Taberna San Miguel Casa el Piso sits on a pretty little square, la Plaza de San Miguel, is now in its fourth generation of the same family, is very popular and serves the local Montilla Moriles wines. The King's sister, on her recent visit, dined there and also at the Ermita de la Candelaria. Here you can taste typical Córdoban specialties like eggplant with cane honey (berenjenas con miel), ox tail stew (rabo de toro), salmorejo (the thick gazpacho topped with slivers of Iberian ham), ajo blanco (cold almond soup), flamenquines, pisto, the local version of ratatouille, alcachofas a la montillana (artichokes cooked in the local Montilla-Moriles wine). cocido croquettes, etc. It was recently bestowed with a Repsol Guide “solete”.
https://www.casaelpisto.com
Nov 3rd, 2023, 07:00 AM
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I very much enjoyed my meal at Casa Mazal in Cordoba, a sephardic restaurant that I think is associated with the sephardic house-museum nearby. There are not many places that promote this cuisine, so it is a unique opportunity that will be quite different from other places, especially with no pork and no shellfish....
Nov 3rd, 2023, 07:14 AM
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lrice, we loved our dinner at Regadera that Maribel recommends. It was one of the best meals of our trip. You do have to make reservations. This is what I wrote about my dessert: "My dessert was violet ice cream with lime crumble, lemon foam, and strawberries" My husband had "lemon foam, lemon ice cream, sponge cake and leaves."
Nov 3rd, 2023, 07:47 AM
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KarenWoo,
Ymmmm!
shelelmm,
My friend Shawn Hennessey also recommends it. It´s at Tomás Conde 3 and bookable on The Fork or on their web page. But closed on Wednesdays.
https://casamazal.es
In case you're ever in Segovia and searching for a Sephardic meal (in case you don't know it already), in its Jewish quarter, there's El Fogón Sefardí,
attached to the Hotel Casa Mudéjar
.https://www.lacasamudejar.com/carta-...on-sefardi.htm
Ymmmm!
shelelmm,
My friend Shawn Hennessey also recommends it. It´s at Tomás Conde 3 and bookable on The Fork or on their web page. But closed on Wednesdays.
https://casamazal.es
In case you're ever in Segovia and searching for a Sephardic meal (in case you don't know it already), in its Jewish quarter, there's El Fogón Sefardí,
attached to the Hotel Casa Mudéjar
.https://www.lacasamudejar.com/carta-...on-sefardi.htm
Nov 15th, 2023, 09:26 PM
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Oh goodness, too many restaurants to choose from! Taberna San Miguel Casa el Piso sounds charming and atmospheric but that violet ice cream sounds amazing Karen! This is the place, right? https://www.regadera.es/
Dec 19th, 2023, 02:12 PM
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Hi all,
Circling back on this thread so any notes that might be helpful to others on Cordoba will be here (I think I got going on my Sevilla thread about Cordoba.)
We booked three train tickets, bought our Mezquita tickets, and made reservations at Casa Mazal for lunch!
Thank you for all of your help!
Circling back on this thread so any notes that might be helpful to others on Cordoba will be here (I think I got going on my Sevilla thread about Cordoba.)
We booked three train tickets, bought our Mezquita tickets, and made reservations at Casa Mazal for lunch!
Thank you for all of your help!
Dec 23rd, 2023, 12:55 PM
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Had a great day in Cordoba. Our lunch at Casa Mazal was outstanding. Delicious food, kind and attentive staff, charming and atmospheric. I definitely recommend this restaurant.
Thank you for the suggestion!
Thank you for the suggestion!
