cologne vs hamburg
Dec 15th, 2004, 02:55 PM
#21
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martytravels,
I actually think the Lonely Planet guide isn't that bad. I just scanned it and at least their introduction is pretty spot on, I believe.
Anyway, here is the follow- up with suggestions for:
<b> - Breakfast </b>
<b> - Lunch </b>
<b> - Dinner </b>
<b> - Bars and Clubs </b>
<b> - Excursion
<b> - Miscellaneous and a word of caution </b>
</b>
I actually think the Lonely Planet guide isn't that bad. I just scanned it and at least their introduction is pretty spot on, I believe.
Anyway, here is the follow- up with suggestions for:
<b> - Breakfast </b>
<b> - Lunch </b>
<b> - Dinner </b>
<b> - Bars and Clubs </b>
<b> - Excursion
<b> - Miscellaneous and a word of caution </b>
</b>
Dec 15th, 2004, 02:56 PM
#22
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<b> Breakfast: </b> Should you not have breakfast included in your room rate and should you not want to enjoy breakfast at your hotel of choice, you might try these places:
<b> Literaturhaus Café: </b> Located in the Uhlenhorst district on Schwanenwik No.38, this café is housed in a stylish art deco mansion serving as a venue for performances and readings of authors and poems. Although the Outer Alster Lake is right opposite the street, there is no view of it. But you are seated in a ballroom like environment under lofty ceilings. Service can be surly at times, but they have a nice selection of breakfast items and their raw-milk cheese selection is legendary among the town's affcionados.
<b> La Caffeteria: </b> Located in Abendrothsweg, a stylish residential street in Eppendorf district, this place is housed on the ground floor of a grand art deco mansion at Abendrothsweg No. 54. They open at ten in the morning and feature five different breakfast offers all day long.
<b> Die Roesterei: </b> This Viennese Kaffeehaus style café is located on the first floor of the Levantehaus shopping arcade on Moenckebergstrasse. It is big and bustling but offers coffees and teas from different regions of the world, with the coffee beans being roasted by themselves. Also good if you want a rest after shopping or exploring town.
<b> Café Lindtner: </b> This wonderfully old fashioned café features a selection of breakfasts as well as some of Hamburg's best cakes in the afternoon. It is located in the shopping district of Hamburg Eppendorf on Eppendorfer Landstrasse No. 88.
<b> Literaturhaus Café: </b> Located in the Uhlenhorst district on Schwanenwik No.38, this café is housed in a stylish art deco mansion serving as a venue for performances and readings of authors and poems. Although the Outer Alster Lake is right opposite the street, there is no view of it. But you are seated in a ballroom like environment under lofty ceilings. Service can be surly at times, but they have a nice selection of breakfast items and their raw-milk cheese selection is legendary among the town's affcionados.
<b> La Caffeteria: </b> Located in Abendrothsweg, a stylish residential street in Eppendorf district, this place is housed on the ground floor of a grand art deco mansion at Abendrothsweg No. 54. They open at ten in the morning and feature five different breakfast offers all day long.
<b> Die Roesterei: </b> This Viennese Kaffeehaus style café is located on the first floor of the Levantehaus shopping arcade on Moenckebergstrasse. It is big and bustling but offers coffees and teas from different regions of the world, with the coffee beans being roasted by themselves. Also good if you want a rest after shopping or exploring town.
<b> Café Lindtner: </b> This wonderfully old fashioned café features a selection of breakfasts as well as some of Hamburg's best cakes in the afternoon. It is located in the shopping district of Hamburg Eppendorf on Eppendorfer Landstrasse No. 88.
Dec 15th, 2004, 02:57 PM
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<b> Lunch:</b>
<b> Bratwurst stalls on Moenckebergstr.: </b> Hamburg's best grilled sausages can be had from the two stalls opposite each other on Moenckebergstr. in the city center, neighboring C&A department store and Goertz shoe store (do NOT confuse it with the one at the entrance to Karstadt opposite St. Petri church!). A delicious Thueringer style bratwurst labelled Moe- Wurst or a Schinkenwurst with a bun will set you back € 2.10. A Currywurst will retail at about € 2.50.
<b> Vapiano:</b> This stylish luncheon eatery decorated by Milano based designer Matteo Thun has revolutionized downtown's lunch habits. A stylish crowd gathers here to enjoy on- site freshly prepared pasta with made to order sauces. The place is self-service and you watch the chef prepare your dishes. Afterwards you can lounge on a couple of sofas at the bar in the entrance area and enjoy some freshly brewed espresso. A meal will set you back around € 5.-. They are located next to the Hamburg Renaissance Hotel on Hohe Bleichen Street.
<b> Cha Cha: </b> This brand new place in Hamburger Hof shopping arcade is accessed from Grosse Bleichen street in the city center. They prepare Thai food freshly and quickly. It is a non-smoking zone, which is as rare as refreshing in Germany. A meal will cost around € 6.-.
<b> Café Paris: </b> This authentically French bistro is a nice stop close to City Hall, located at Rathausstrasse No.4. The French owners prepare nice lunches and reasonably priced daily luncheon specials along with a great atmosphere to which the beautiful antique tiles along the walls contribute greatly. A main course will cost you around € 9.-. This is also a great place to people watch, as it is always packed. It is also popular for dinner, you might want to make reservation before, though, to secure a table. Telephone Number is 040- 32 52 77 77. Dinner prices might be slightly higher, but should not exceed € 15.- for a main course.
<b> Bratwurst stalls on Moenckebergstr.: </b> Hamburg's best grilled sausages can be had from the two stalls opposite each other on Moenckebergstr. in the city center, neighboring C&A department store and Goertz shoe store (do NOT confuse it with the one at the entrance to Karstadt opposite St. Petri church!). A delicious Thueringer style bratwurst labelled Moe- Wurst or a Schinkenwurst with a bun will set you back € 2.10. A Currywurst will retail at about € 2.50.
<b> Vapiano:</b> This stylish luncheon eatery decorated by Milano based designer Matteo Thun has revolutionized downtown's lunch habits. A stylish crowd gathers here to enjoy on- site freshly prepared pasta with made to order sauces. The place is self-service and you watch the chef prepare your dishes. Afterwards you can lounge on a couple of sofas at the bar in the entrance area and enjoy some freshly brewed espresso. A meal will set you back around € 5.-. They are located next to the Hamburg Renaissance Hotel on Hohe Bleichen Street.
<b> Cha Cha: </b> This brand new place in Hamburger Hof shopping arcade is accessed from Grosse Bleichen street in the city center. They prepare Thai food freshly and quickly. It is a non-smoking zone, which is as rare as refreshing in Germany. A meal will cost around € 6.-.
<b> Café Paris: </b> This authentically French bistro is a nice stop close to City Hall, located at Rathausstrasse No.4. The French owners prepare nice lunches and reasonably priced daily luncheon specials along with a great atmosphere to which the beautiful antique tiles along the walls contribute greatly. A main course will cost you around € 9.-. This is also a great place to people watch, as it is always packed. It is also popular for dinner, you might want to make reservation before, though, to secure a table. Telephone Number is 040- 32 52 77 77. Dinner prices might be slightly higher, but should not exceed € 15.- for a main course.
Dec 15th, 2004, 02:59 PM
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<b> Dinner: </b>
While Hamburg features the highest density of star- decorated restaurants in Germany, most of these places are pretty expensive, although probably worth it. Given your comments on what you are looking for, I'll try to point out a few restaurants that are not over the top, but still pretty good at what they offer. I will list them in the order of my personal preference:
<b> Stocker: </b> I have been raving about Austrian TV- chef Manfred Stocker's restaurant here on Fodors and I will keep doing so. While not inexpensive, this place is not overly expensive and offers excellent value and food of impeccable quality in a relaxed atmosphere. The style of cuisine is mixed: While they offer a couple of classically Austrian dishes, such as Tafelspitz (which I highly recommend) served with an appetizer soup, hash browns, creamy spinach, and a light chive sauce at around € 17.-, they also feature locally and French influenced classic cuisine. Their sumptuous desserts are to die for, and the wine-list extensive (I recommend a Gruener Veltliner white wine from Kremstal at around € 27.- a bottle). They are located in Altona, not far from the train station, at Max- Brauer- Allee No. 80, neighboring the Theater for Children. This is a place for a special occasion and my absolute favorite currently.
Telephone No. is 040- 38 61 50 56.
<b> Das Weisse Haus: </b> Germany's young cooking star and TV- chef Tim Maelzer, somewhat reminiscent of Jamie Oliver (with whom he used to work in London), is your host in this small captain's home opposite the Neumuehlen/ Oevelgoenne ferry stop and the Museum Harbor. The cuisine is creative and sort of wild at times, but always immaculately prepared at this young and fun place. They don't offer a menu, but will ask you what you dislike. They will then prepare a three course dinner catering to your wishes. On Monday nights guests decide on how much they are willing to pay. Otherwise, a meal of three courses will set you back approximately € 30.-. The address is Neumuehlen No. 50, and Telephone Number is 040- 390 90 16. Call ahead for reservations. On weekend nights it's hard to get a table. Sunday lunch often consists of a pot- roast followed by freshly baked cakes, which can be quite delicious.
<b> Elbe 76: </b> This casual but stylish place in Hamburg's inner city residential neighborhood of Hoheluft is easily overlooked and located in the basement of an old apartment home at Bismarckstrasse 76. Thus its name is slightly peculiar, as it is quite a distance from the Elbe River contributing to its name. They have an extremely popular bar in the front, where they also serve the best Pizze in town IMHO. Try a Rucola/ Parma Ham one for a steep € 11.-. It's worth it. They have perfectly chilled Jever Pilsner beer on tap. Also, they sport a restaurant section in the back, which isn't bad, but I prefer to stay in the bar in the front. For some reason undisclosed to me, they only serve daily special Pizze in the restaurant section. As it's often packed, you might want to call ahead for reservations: 040- 40 02 35.
<b> Bottega Lentini: </b> Located on Eppendorfer Weg in Eppendorf. Unfortunately, I don't know the street number, but it is just a few steps from the well known pub called "Legendaer" on the corner of Lehmweg. This is a casual Italian place seating most patrons on bar stools. The food is good, the atmosphere casual and it makes for a nice start into the evening, especially, if you want to visit the hip bar Bereuther close by and described below. A main course of Pasta or Pizza will cost somewhat around € 8.-, meat or fish dishes might sell for € 13.-.
<b> Fischmarkt: </b> This seafood place is not located on Fischmarkt fish market, as its name would suggest (with Elbe 76 located far away from Elbe, this seems to be a confusing trend here, I realize), but located a few steps down from St. Michael's church and a few steps from the port and Baumwall train stop on Ditmar- Koel- Strasse at the corner of Neustädter Neuer Weg. They don't have a view, but will present you an impressive collection of their catch of the day, which will be prepared according to your preferences in their show style kitchen. Have a glass of beer along with it, or try the dry German Riesling from Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau region. Food is not inexpensive with a main course at around € 16.- to € 20.-, but served in a nice and relaxed ambiance and it's overall worth it.
<b> Saliba: </b> As you mentioned that you like Oriental food, highly acclaimed Saliba might be an option. Located in Bahrenfeld on Leverkusenstrasse No. 54 (not far from the 25-hours Hotel), Saliba features Syrian cuisine in an old industrial ambiance. Enjoy some pre-dinner tea in their divan- foyer. They will then serve you a vast assortment of Mazze, Syrian and Lebanese appetizers that being served in various courses may constitute a whole meal. It does take a lot of time, though and comes at a price. Main courses will set you back around € 20.-. Telephone Number is 040- 85 80 71.
<b> Casa Algarve: </b> If you want to go a bit on the cheap side, but still enjoy some dinner, there are a number of Portuguese restaurants in Hamburg. Most of them are concentrated in the area around Baumwall, near the Fischmarkt Restaurant (Sagres Plus is the name of a pretty popular restaurant here), Casa Algarve is in the inner- city residential neighborhood of Uhlenhorst on Hofweg No. 63. This eatery near the Eastern shore of the Outer- Alster Lake features a wide selection of seafood and meat dishes at comparatively low prices. I shy you away from their peculiarly bottled house wine, though. Rather order a regular bottle of vinho verde. Sometimes they have a guitar player in the evenings. Main courses sell at prices of around € 12.-.
<b> Bok: </b> Located in Hamburg's trendy "Schanzenviertel" near St. Pauli on Schulterblatt 80 and 92, these are two Asian style restaurants of a locally established chain. The cuisine is an assortment of Thai, Japanese, Korean and Chinese. The quality is somewhat hit and miss IMHO. However, both outfits are pretty hip and always crowded, although I find prices a bit high for what they offer, but that's my personal opinion, and they are still affordable anyway with main courses retailing between € 10.- and € 20.-. After dinner you might want to cross over to <b> Mandalay Bar and Club </b> for drinks and even some dancing with an interesting crowd of the hip and chic along with some slightly alternative types. They do not have any sign outdoors, but you might ask anybody on the street outside the restaurant. They will point you to it. It is in a building facing Schanzenstr. at the corner of Schulterblatt. The exact address is Neuer Pferdemarkt No. 13. They have a doorman, so you might identify it by that.
While Hamburg features the highest density of star- decorated restaurants in Germany, most of these places are pretty expensive, although probably worth it. Given your comments on what you are looking for, I'll try to point out a few restaurants that are not over the top, but still pretty good at what they offer. I will list them in the order of my personal preference:
<b> Stocker: </b> I have been raving about Austrian TV- chef Manfred Stocker's restaurant here on Fodors and I will keep doing so. While not inexpensive, this place is not overly expensive and offers excellent value and food of impeccable quality in a relaxed atmosphere. The style of cuisine is mixed: While they offer a couple of classically Austrian dishes, such as Tafelspitz (which I highly recommend) served with an appetizer soup, hash browns, creamy spinach, and a light chive sauce at around € 17.-, they also feature locally and French influenced classic cuisine. Their sumptuous desserts are to die for, and the wine-list extensive (I recommend a Gruener Veltliner white wine from Kremstal at around € 27.- a bottle). They are located in Altona, not far from the train station, at Max- Brauer- Allee No. 80, neighboring the Theater for Children. This is a place for a special occasion and my absolute favorite currently.
Telephone No. is 040- 38 61 50 56.
<b> Das Weisse Haus: </b> Germany's young cooking star and TV- chef Tim Maelzer, somewhat reminiscent of Jamie Oliver (with whom he used to work in London), is your host in this small captain's home opposite the Neumuehlen/ Oevelgoenne ferry stop and the Museum Harbor. The cuisine is creative and sort of wild at times, but always immaculately prepared at this young and fun place. They don't offer a menu, but will ask you what you dislike. They will then prepare a three course dinner catering to your wishes. On Monday nights guests decide on how much they are willing to pay. Otherwise, a meal of three courses will set you back approximately € 30.-. The address is Neumuehlen No. 50, and Telephone Number is 040- 390 90 16. Call ahead for reservations. On weekend nights it's hard to get a table. Sunday lunch often consists of a pot- roast followed by freshly baked cakes, which can be quite delicious.
<b> Elbe 76: </b> This casual but stylish place in Hamburg's inner city residential neighborhood of Hoheluft is easily overlooked and located in the basement of an old apartment home at Bismarckstrasse 76. Thus its name is slightly peculiar, as it is quite a distance from the Elbe River contributing to its name. They have an extremely popular bar in the front, where they also serve the best Pizze in town IMHO. Try a Rucola/ Parma Ham one for a steep € 11.-. It's worth it. They have perfectly chilled Jever Pilsner beer on tap. Also, they sport a restaurant section in the back, which isn't bad, but I prefer to stay in the bar in the front. For some reason undisclosed to me, they only serve daily special Pizze in the restaurant section. As it's often packed, you might want to call ahead for reservations: 040- 40 02 35.
<b> Bottega Lentini: </b> Located on Eppendorfer Weg in Eppendorf. Unfortunately, I don't know the street number, but it is just a few steps from the well known pub called "Legendaer" on the corner of Lehmweg. This is a casual Italian place seating most patrons on bar stools. The food is good, the atmosphere casual and it makes for a nice start into the evening, especially, if you want to visit the hip bar Bereuther close by and described below. A main course of Pasta or Pizza will cost somewhat around € 8.-, meat or fish dishes might sell for € 13.-.
<b> Fischmarkt: </b> This seafood place is not located on Fischmarkt fish market, as its name would suggest (with Elbe 76 located far away from Elbe, this seems to be a confusing trend here, I realize), but located a few steps down from St. Michael's church and a few steps from the port and Baumwall train stop on Ditmar- Koel- Strasse at the corner of Neustädter Neuer Weg. They don't have a view, but will present you an impressive collection of their catch of the day, which will be prepared according to your preferences in their show style kitchen. Have a glass of beer along with it, or try the dry German Riesling from Schloss Vollrads in the Rheingau region. Food is not inexpensive with a main course at around € 16.- to € 20.-, but served in a nice and relaxed ambiance and it's overall worth it.
<b> Saliba: </b> As you mentioned that you like Oriental food, highly acclaimed Saliba might be an option. Located in Bahrenfeld on Leverkusenstrasse No. 54 (not far from the 25-hours Hotel), Saliba features Syrian cuisine in an old industrial ambiance. Enjoy some pre-dinner tea in their divan- foyer. They will then serve you a vast assortment of Mazze, Syrian and Lebanese appetizers that being served in various courses may constitute a whole meal. It does take a lot of time, though and comes at a price. Main courses will set you back around € 20.-. Telephone Number is 040- 85 80 71.
<b> Casa Algarve: </b> If you want to go a bit on the cheap side, but still enjoy some dinner, there are a number of Portuguese restaurants in Hamburg. Most of them are concentrated in the area around Baumwall, near the Fischmarkt Restaurant (Sagres Plus is the name of a pretty popular restaurant here), Casa Algarve is in the inner- city residential neighborhood of Uhlenhorst on Hofweg No. 63. This eatery near the Eastern shore of the Outer- Alster Lake features a wide selection of seafood and meat dishes at comparatively low prices. I shy you away from their peculiarly bottled house wine, though. Rather order a regular bottle of vinho verde. Sometimes they have a guitar player in the evenings. Main courses sell at prices of around € 12.-.
<b> Bok: </b> Located in Hamburg's trendy "Schanzenviertel" near St. Pauli on Schulterblatt 80 and 92, these are two Asian style restaurants of a locally established chain. The cuisine is an assortment of Thai, Japanese, Korean and Chinese. The quality is somewhat hit and miss IMHO. However, both outfits are pretty hip and always crowded, although I find prices a bit high for what they offer, but that's my personal opinion, and they are still affordable anyway with main courses retailing between € 10.- and € 20.-. After dinner you might want to cross over to <b> Mandalay Bar and Club </b> for drinks and even some dancing with an interesting crowd of the hip and chic along with some slightly alternative types. They do not have any sign outdoors, but you might ask anybody on the street outside the restaurant. They will point you to it. It is in a building facing Schanzenstr. at the corner of Schulterblatt. The exact address is Neuer Pferdemarkt No. 13. They have a doorman, so you might identify it by that.
Dec 15th, 2004, 03:00 PM
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<b> Bars and Clubs: </b> For some reason, I don't think Friday nights out on town are too good an idea. The city attracts to many folks from the neighboring rural areas and in general the clientele of the bars and clubs deteriorates during these nights. Pretty hip nights for hitting the scene are Thursdays. If you are in town for the weekend, don't be discouraged by this.
<b> Bar Savanh: </b> Located on the ground floor of hip Indochine Restaurant and part of the new business and residential district lining the River Elbe in Neumuehlen, this chic bar is facing the container port, illuminated attractively at nights. They also feature some of Hamburg's best mixed drinks which can be enjoyed lounging on black leather sofas. The address is Neumuehlen No. 11. This place is just a short cab ride from Stocker's restaurant (5 min.), should you decide to have dinner there.
<b> Bar Au Quai: </b> This lounge style bar is just two minutes by car from Bar Savanh. It also faces the river and features a great terrace equipped with gas heaters atop the River Elbe. Good drinks which are not over-pretentiously decorated, but concentrate on the ingredients and chilly music. Address is Grosse Elbstrasse 145 b-d.
<b> Ciu's Bar: </b> Located on Ballindamm14/15 overlooking the Inner- Alster Lake in the center of town, Ciu's offers one of the best equipped whiskey selections of the city. The list of drinks is thick as a book and the quality of drinks is immaculate.
<b> Mandalay: </b> I described this one already in the Bok's restaurant review. Located in the trendy (and a bit grimy) Schanzenviertel district at Neuer Pferdemarkt, this place is ideal to have a couple of drinks and dance a bit to house beats before moving on to venture into Hamburg's red-light district along Reeperbahn, which is just a short cab ride away, or 10 minutes on foot.
<b> Bereuther: </b> Located in Eppendorf on Klosterallee No. 100, corner of Lehmweg, this is one of the in- places among the city's jeunesse d'aurée. The barkeeper's performance juggling with bottles and glasses while mixing decent quality drinks is impressive. Although featuring a doorman, this place is surprisingly friendly and has less of an attitude than you might come to expect. It is packed especially on Thursday nights.
<b> Hefner: </b> This window-less bar and lounge is a seventies- design classic located roghly between the University district of Rotherbaum and Schanzenviertel on Beim Schlump No.15. Drinks are strong and the selection focuses on classics. It is a relaxed place in general that is seldom overly packed, but still well visited and provides for a good drink in a good atmosphere at nights.
<b> Tower Bar: </b> Popular among tourists (and among them only, I believe), Tower Bar in the Hotel Hafen Hamburg at Seewartenstr. No.9, only a stone's throw from Reeperbahn, features decent drinks. Its main attraction, though is its unbeatable views over the magnificently illuminated port on one side and large portions of the city on the other side.
<b> Bar Morphine: </b> Whereas the (in-)famous Café Keese on Reeperbahn has been an institution for decades offering women's- only choice classic dancing, on its backside basement Bar Morphine is a young and trendy place for dancing and lounging at nights. The entrance fee of around € 8.- is steep, though, with no drinks included.
<b> China Lounge: </b> China Lounge is located directly on Reeperbahn at the Western end near Nobistor. It's also a hip place to go for a dance at nights. Entrance fee is about € 8.-, too and includes access to an upstairs "VIP- Lounge" plus the downstairs dancing area.
<b> Mary Lou's: </b> Located on Hans-Albers-Platz, adjacent to Reeperbahn, this is sort of a sailor's type bar. It is often packed (beware of the occasional pickpocket), slightly sleazy with loud rock music from the eighties to current playing. Beer is the primary drink here – and have one directly from the bottle, because cleanliness of glasses in this establishment cannot necessarily be trusted. Apart from this, the place can still be fun to hang out.
<b> Albers Eck: </b> Also on Hans- Albers- Platz, this bar and basement disco is a Reeperbahn classic. A mixed crowd gathers here and dances to classic and generic pop-music.
<b> Doll House: </b> There is a vast selection of strip joints in the area around Reeperbahn (locally referred to as "Kiez"
. However, this establishment on Grosse Freiheit Street (Great Liberty Street), is one of the more respectable ones. The entrance fee is steep – as are the prices for beers, but there is no danger of being ripped off here and bills to reward the girl's (and some men for the visiting females) for their dancing performances on tables are included.
Dec 15th, 2004, 03:01 PM
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<b> Excursion: </b>
<b> Luebeck: </b> Luebeck is a must-visit IMHO. It is a medieval city located approximately 40 miles North of Hamburg with a very well preserved Old Town. It once was the capital of the medieval trade organization called Hanse, which free cities throughout Europe associated themselves with. The wealth accumulated in those days is still visible in the ancient traders' mansions. The Holstentor City Gate forming the entrance to the city surrounded by the rivers Trave and Wakenitz when entering from the direction of the Central Station used to be printed on the backside of the 50- Deutsch-Mark-Bills and today houses a somewhat spooky Museum of Torture.
A must visit and well deserved stop after exploring the city is Café Niederegger. It is home of the world's most famous marzipan sweets, which has been manufactured for decades after a secret family recipe.
Lunch can be had at restaurant Schiffergesellschaft, which offers local food in traditional surroundings and is well frequented by tourists.
<b> Luebeck: </b> Luebeck is a must-visit IMHO. It is a medieval city located approximately 40 miles North of Hamburg with a very well preserved Old Town. It once was the capital of the medieval trade organization called Hanse, which free cities throughout Europe associated themselves with. The wealth accumulated in those days is still visible in the ancient traders' mansions. The Holstentor City Gate forming the entrance to the city surrounded by the rivers Trave and Wakenitz when entering from the direction of the Central Station used to be printed on the backside of the 50- Deutsch-Mark-Bills and today houses a somewhat spooky Museum of Torture.
A must visit and well deserved stop after exploring the city is Café Niederegger. It is home of the world's most famous marzipan sweets, which has been manufactured for decades after a secret family recipe.
Lunch can be had at restaurant Schiffergesellschaft, which offers local food in traditional surroundings and is well frequented by tourists.
Dec 15th, 2004, 03:02 PM
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<b> Miscellaneous and a word of caution: </b>
In general I believe you will find this city very liberal – be it in a sexual context with the well visited red-light- district as well as politically and with regards to different styles and cultures of living. About the only thing this city's inhabitants are traditionally conservative about is finance. Apart from that, respect for the different is what is being taught first and considered most important by most of the people here.
After all this has always been a free city that has hardly bowed to any ruling power, which until today is displayed e.g. when the mayor welcomes visiting heads of state. Even the visiting President of the Federal Republic of Germany will only be greeted from the upper step of City Hall's stairway with the mayor standing one step above of his visitor. Within the city's traditionalist elite it is also considered to be unacceptable to wear any medals awarded to people from the Federal Republic of Germany – and even accepting them is questionable. All this along with a mentality that is governed by a sense of understatement and a certain reservation to strangers (which, once overcome can result in true and reliable friendships) has caused Hamburg inhabitants to widely being considered as arrogant. I hope you won't experience the city as that.
For what it is, just as any cosmopolitan city, Hamburg has some areas that are best to be avoided or which require to walk the streets with caution.
This goes especially for the neighborhoods on the Northern side of Central Station (exit Kirchenallee and tunnels leading to subway line U2). St. Georg, as this area is called, is a multicultural neighborhood that also has attracted large portions of the city's gay population and as such has become somewhat thriving. Lange Reihe Street here is a good example and offers quite a few pleasant bars and restaurants and is pretty safe. However, streets to the North and East of Lange Reihe in the direction of Steindamm should be avoided. They are still home to a lot of drug addicts (with a central drug ambulance being located in the Wuestenrot- building behind the Museum for Arts and Crafts) and cheap brothels. Beware – especially do not pass onto the area of Hansaplatz here!
Also a hub of drug dealers is the small Park called "Sternschanzenpark" to the right once you exit train stop Sternschanze. This is fairly close to the hip and alternative neighborhood of Schanzenviertel, so beware here, too.
Also be on your guard on Reeperbahn! Do not necessarily pass the street called Hamburger Berg with its sleazy bars and pubs, where a lot of criminals reside. Although there is a large presence of Police on Reeperbahn (marked and unmarked), recently there have been stabbings of rivalling gangs that are easy to get involved with. Should you be approached by the hookers at Davidstrasse next to the Burger King outfit opposite the famous Police Station called "Davidswache", decline friendly (unless you are interested, which I do not recommend, although I don't have any personal experience). They will in general respect that.
Connecting Hans-Albers-Platz with Davidstr. there is a fenced alley called Herbertstrasse. It is easily identifiable by the cigarette advertisement of West which reads in German: "The best part about temptation is to give in". This is a street lined with whore houses displaying the prostitutes behind glass windows. It is an attraction in itself, just to pass through and access is prohibited for minors. But: Do not chat with the women unless you are seriously interested in doing business with them – they are working and doing a hard job and do not deserve to be made fun of or to be made waste their time on tourists unwilling to pay for their services. It also cannot be recommended to pass through this street with your wife or girl-friend. It is a tradition that passing females will be poured some dubious liquids on by the prostitutes from upper-floor windows!
In general I believe you will find this city very liberal – be it in a sexual context with the well visited red-light- district as well as politically and with regards to different styles and cultures of living. About the only thing this city's inhabitants are traditionally conservative about is finance. Apart from that, respect for the different is what is being taught first and considered most important by most of the people here.
After all this has always been a free city that has hardly bowed to any ruling power, which until today is displayed e.g. when the mayor welcomes visiting heads of state. Even the visiting President of the Federal Republic of Germany will only be greeted from the upper step of City Hall's stairway with the mayor standing one step above of his visitor. Within the city's traditionalist elite it is also considered to be unacceptable to wear any medals awarded to people from the Federal Republic of Germany – and even accepting them is questionable. All this along with a mentality that is governed by a sense of understatement and a certain reservation to strangers (which, once overcome can result in true and reliable friendships) has caused Hamburg inhabitants to widely being considered as arrogant. I hope you won't experience the city as that.
For what it is, just as any cosmopolitan city, Hamburg has some areas that are best to be avoided or which require to walk the streets with caution.
This goes especially for the neighborhoods on the Northern side of Central Station (exit Kirchenallee and tunnels leading to subway line U2). St. Georg, as this area is called, is a multicultural neighborhood that also has attracted large portions of the city's gay population and as such has become somewhat thriving. Lange Reihe Street here is a good example and offers quite a few pleasant bars and restaurants and is pretty safe. However, streets to the North and East of Lange Reihe in the direction of Steindamm should be avoided. They are still home to a lot of drug addicts (with a central drug ambulance being located in the Wuestenrot- building behind the Museum for Arts and Crafts) and cheap brothels. Beware – especially do not pass onto the area of Hansaplatz here!
Also a hub of drug dealers is the small Park called "Sternschanzenpark" to the right once you exit train stop Sternschanze. This is fairly close to the hip and alternative neighborhood of Schanzenviertel, so beware here, too.
Also be on your guard on Reeperbahn! Do not necessarily pass the street called Hamburger Berg with its sleazy bars and pubs, where a lot of criminals reside. Although there is a large presence of Police on Reeperbahn (marked and unmarked), recently there have been stabbings of rivalling gangs that are easy to get involved with. Should you be approached by the hookers at Davidstrasse next to the Burger King outfit opposite the famous Police Station called "Davidswache", decline friendly (unless you are interested, which I do not recommend, although I don't have any personal experience). They will in general respect that.
Connecting Hans-Albers-Platz with Davidstr. there is a fenced alley called Herbertstrasse. It is easily identifiable by the cigarette advertisement of West which reads in German: "The best part about temptation is to give in". This is a street lined with whore houses displaying the prostitutes behind glass windows. It is an attraction in itself, just to pass through and access is prohibited for minors. But: Do not chat with the women unless you are seriously interested in doing business with them – they are working and doing a hard job and do not deserve to be made fun of or to be made waste their time on tourists unwilling to pay for their services. It also cannot be recommended to pass through this street with your wife or girl-friend. It is a tradition that passing females will be poured some dubious liquids on by the prostitutes from upper-floor windows!
Dec 15th, 2004, 06:23 PM
#28
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Again HSV, thanks a whole bunch for the recommendations. The specs on the neighborhoods also are much appreciated. The guides give general specs on the neighborhoods and areas that aren't so savory, but not specific street details. I tend to wander all over a city, so those specs on what to expect on certain streets are much appreciated.
Dec 15th, 2004, 11:02 PM
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martytravels,
you're welcome!
If you are still looking for guides, I know that the German Marc O Polo guides have a pretty recent English version. I don't know, but it might be available to you through amazon. It shouldn't be too expensive, probably around $ 10.-.
If I can think of more, I will post here. Should you need any special info or assistance, you may post your e-mail address and I shall contact you.
Have a nice day
hsv
you're welcome!
If you are still looking for guides, I know that the German Marc O Polo guides have a pretty recent English version. I don't know, but it might be available to you through amazon. It shouldn't be too expensive, probably around $ 10.-.
If I can think of more, I will post here. Should you need any special info or assistance, you may post your e-mail address and I shall contact you.
Have a nice day
hsv
Dec 15th, 2004, 11:26 PM
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Coming to think of it, I 've got two more recommendations:
<b> Lunch: </b>
<b> Fischerhaus: </b> A list of Hamburg's luncheon locations would not be complete without Fischerhaus. This is a rustic eatery down by the port located at Fischmarkt No.14. It has two levels. A rustic ground floor that sports a 1950s/60s interior that is pretty ugly and has not been changed much over the decades (it is clean, though) and a modern upstairs. The upstairs section features views of the docks of Blohm & Voss shipyards and the River in front of it. However, I suppose you will find the locals sitting in the traditional downstairs section. The food is nothing spectacular (especially the side dishes), but the fish is fresh and portions are large. In general, this is where I go if I want to enjoy a decent plaice fried in bacon and topped with bacon and butter ("Scholle Finkenwerder style), a classic Hamburg dish originating on the former Fisherman's island of Finkenwerder a bit down the river. You need to drink a beer along with it. This might be the most expensive lunch place I have recommended here with main courses at around € 14.-. I would not recommend this place for dinner, though, as I don't think the atmosphere is worth it.
<b> Café Engel: </b> Café Engel (Café Angel) is located on the ferry berth of Teufelsbrueck (Devil's bridge) right in the River Elbe in the suburb of Nienstedten, close to Blankenese.
It is best accessed by ferry. You would have to take a ferry departing at either Landungsbruecken, Fischmarkt or Neumuehlen/Oevelgoenne in the direction of Finkenwerder. Here you need to change boats and cross over to Teufelsbrueck. Ferries are included in a daypass of the public transport system. The ride is pleasant and sort of something short of a tour of the port. From Café Engel you can take a bus back into town or keep on strolling down the river or back up via Strandweg to Neumuehlen (1 hour walk). The Café features a small menu with very decently prepared foods as its proprietor is a star decorated chef owning the Tafelhaus Restaurant in Neumuehlen, close to Bar Savanh. The Café is also nice to just enjoy some coffee or beer on its terrace.
It is also open for dinner and a meal will set you back around € 15.- to 17.-.
<b> Lunch: </b>
<b> Fischerhaus: </b> A list of Hamburg's luncheon locations would not be complete without Fischerhaus. This is a rustic eatery down by the port located at Fischmarkt No.14. It has two levels. A rustic ground floor that sports a 1950s/60s interior that is pretty ugly and has not been changed much over the decades (it is clean, though) and a modern upstairs. The upstairs section features views of the docks of Blohm & Voss shipyards and the River in front of it. However, I suppose you will find the locals sitting in the traditional downstairs section. The food is nothing spectacular (especially the side dishes), but the fish is fresh and portions are large. In general, this is where I go if I want to enjoy a decent plaice fried in bacon and topped with bacon and butter ("Scholle Finkenwerder style), a classic Hamburg dish originating on the former Fisherman's island of Finkenwerder a bit down the river. You need to drink a beer along with it. This might be the most expensive lunch place I have recommended here with main courses at around € 14.-. I would not recommend this place for dinner, though, as I don't think the atmosphere is worth it.
<b> Café Engel: </b> Café Engel (Café Angel) is located on the ferry berth of Teufelsbrueck (Devil's bridge) right in the River Elbe in the suburb of Nienstedten, close to Blankenese.
It is best accessed by ferry. You would have to take a ferry departing at either Landungsbruecken, Fischmarkt or Neumuehlen/Oevelgoenne in the direction of Finkenwerder. Here you need to change boats and cross over to Teufelsbrueck. Ferries are included in a daypass of the public transport system. The ride is pleasant and sort of something short of a tour of the port. From Café Engel you can take a bus back into town or keep on strolling down the river or back up via Strandweg to Neumuehlen (1 hour walk). The Café features a small menu with very decently prepared foods as its proprietor is a star decorated chef owning the Tafelhaus Restaurant in Neumuehlen, close to Bar Savanh. The Café is also nice to just enjoy some coffee or beer on its terrace.
It is also open for dinner and a meal will set you back around € 15.- to 17.-.
