Collioure in February
Dec 21st, 2007 | 02:15 AM
#1
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Collioure in February
We'll finally be within striking distance of Collioure which I've long wanted to see based on posts here. Will it be deserted in February or will I still be able to soak up the charm? Even if those of you who have been there weren't there in winter, please give me your perspective on how it would likely be to be there at that time of year and advise me on whether I should seize this opportunity or wait to go in a more favorable month. Thanks.
Dec 21st, 2007 | 03:13 AM
#2
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I was there in March last year, and it was pretty deserted. Depends what you want to see, and what the weather is like. If it's a warmish sunny day (possible in February) you will be able to appreciate the charm of the site, but not of the many small shops and boutiques.
If however it's cool/cold and windy, also possible at that time of year, it will be much less enjoyable. I've stood on the beach with clouds/rain/wind in November and there wasn't too much charm in evidence.
On the whole, I'd probably recommend a warmer time, when you can have drink your sangria overlooking the harbour - however, avoiding high season, when the charm also disappears out the window.
If however it's cool/cold and windy, also possible at that time of year, it will be much less enjoyable. I've stood on the beach with clouds/rain/wind in November and there wasn't too much charm in evidence.
On the whole, I'd probably recommend a warmer time, when you can have drink your sangria overlooking the harbour - however, avoiding high season, when the charm also disappears out the window.
Dec 21st, 2007 | 04:43 AM
#5
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Julie
It's not too bad right now. Temp is about 12 degrees Celcius and it's cloudy.
Take a look at this site. It's a photo album of the area around Collioure and the Pyrenees. There are a lot of Collioure photos and a lot are from the winter time. Just look at the clothes they're wearing.
Okay, maybe some of the tourists went home but it's still full of people from France.
http://www.pyreneesmediterraneanliving.com/
Google for Colliure and look for a panorama site. Then you can see for yourself.
My rental apartment is booked for tommorow, over the holidays, so it's not too bad.
Blackduff
It's not too bad right now. Temp is about 12 degrees Celcius and it's cloudy.
Take a look at this site. It's a photo album of the area around Collioure and the Pyrenees. There are a lot of Collioure photos and a lot are from the winter time. Just look at the clothes they're wearing.
Okay, maybe some of the tourists went home but it's still full of people from France.
http://www.pyreneesmediterraneanliving.com/
Google for Colliure and look for a panorama site. Then you can see for yourself.
My rental apartment is booked for tommorow, over the holidays, so it's not too bad.
Blackduff
Dec 21st, 2007 | 05:46 AM
#6
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That's it. I'm going. If I love it as much as it looks like I will, we'll be back in all kinds of weather. Thanks much for the replies and the pictures. They certainly convinced me.
Ekscrunchy, I promise to report back, especially on the food. Did a really stupid thing this year, and got myself on the condo board so haven't had much time to devote to this board. I miss it and when freedom day comes Feb. 13 at 7:30 p.m (but who's counting) I'll be back here writing lengthy reports like crazy.
Ekscrunchy, I promise to report back, especially on the food. Did a really stupid thing this year, and got myself on the condo board so haven't had much time to devote to this board. I miss it and when freedom day comes Feb. 13 at 7:30 p.m (but who's counting) I'll be back here writing lengthy reports like crazy.
Dec 21st, 2007 | 06:06 AM
#7
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Julie--
I think, but I may be wrong, you are a fellow Minnesotan, so I am speaking as someone who was escaping a Minnesots winter. We were in Collioure at almost exactly the same time of year you will be there. We arrived without a reservation and were surprised to find that the more inexpensive hotels we were interested in were either fully booked or shut down tight for the winter. So, we found a place in nearby Banyuls for the night and moved back to Collioure the next day. I was surprised that there were a number of French people visint and sitting outsie in the weak sun in their puffy winter jackets. Then the tremontaine hit! Horrible, horrible wind in the area for several days. Even the TGV was temporarily suspended temporarily because the winds were so strong. We have photos of me outside, and my hair is standing straight up because the winds were so strong. Frankly, I wan't overwhelmed. I suspect another time of year might be better.
I think, but I may be wrong, you are a fellow Minnesotan, so I am speaking as someone who was escaping a Minnesots winter. We were in Collioure at almost exactly the same time of year you will be there. We arrived without a reservation and were surprised to find that the more inexpensive hotels we were interested in were either fully booked or shut down tight for the winter. So, we found a place in nearby Banyuls for the night and moved back to Collioure the next day. I was surprised that there were a number of French people visint and sitting outsie in the weak sun in their puffy winter jackets. Then the tremontaine hit! Horrible, horrible wind in the area for several days. Even the TGV was temporarily suspended temporarily because the winds were so strong. We have photos of me outside, and my hair is standing straight up because the winds were so strong. Frankly, I wan't overwhelmed. I suspect another time of year might be better.
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Dec 21st, 2007 | 07:08 AM
#8
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Colloiure is about the same latitude as northern Minnesota - but gets a milder climate because of the Mediterranean.
We spent two weeks near-by in '04 and visited Collioure several times for the market (very poor), wandering through town, and for my birthday dinner. This was the first two weeks in June. This was our second visit to Collioure - the first was in the '80s. IMO, it's an OK town - a little touristy for my tastes, and many of the shops were geared for tourists. There's a lot to see & do in that region besides Collioure. Why not visit it in the June through Sept time frame so you can see it at it's best and also take drives along the coast, into the beautiful Pyrenees, see some of the Cathars castles, Carcassonne, other cute villages, Costa Brava in Spain, Girona, beautiful countryside, etc.
Surprisingly, even in early June the beaches were pretty much deserted. I would imaging that it would be pretty lonely in Feb. and most of the shops would be closed.
Stu Dudley
We spent two weeks near-by in '04 and visited Collioure several times for the market (very poor), wandering through town, and for my birthday dinner. This was the first two weeks in June. This was our second visit to Collioure - the first was in the '80s. IMO, it's an OK town - a little touristy for my tastes, and many of the shops were geared for tourists. There's a lot to see & do in that region besides Collioure. Why not visit it in the June through Sept time frame so you can see it at it's best and also take drives along the coast, into the beautiful Pyrenees, see some of the Cathars castles, Carcassonne, other cute villages, Costa Brava in Spain, Girona, beautiful countryside, etc.
Surprisingly, even in early June the beaches were pretty much deserted. I would imaging that it would be pretty lonely in Feb. and most of the shops would be closed.
Stu Dudley
Dec 21st, 2007 | 07:13 AM
#9
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Having been in Paris for christmas one year when they experienced the storm of the century that felled over 1000 trees in Versailles, I know that things can happen to mar any vacation and the odds increase in the winter. I'm still thinking to try it while I've got the chance--chance it so to speak, and see what happens. Thanks to all of you for the guidance on all sides of the issue. I'll report back. And yes, julies, I was a Minnesotan until moving to Ft. Lauderdale about 4 years ago. I was also a Julie S, but in my maiden years.
Dec 21st, 2007 | 09:45 AM
#13
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Julie,
I agree with Carlux that in high season the charm of Collioure goes out the window, since it's virtually impossible to even park aftewr 9:30 am. So if you have a chance in Feb. rather than late June-July-Aug., I would give it a try.
We were across the border in late Jan. last year (Figueres & Peralada), and we enjoyed warmish, sunny days. We had expected to be bothered by the winds but didn't experience them at all. Wanted to get back up to Ceret and Collioure but ran out of time.
I would urge you not to miss the wonderful Museum of Modern Art in Ceret and especially its wonderful collection of Picassos's ceramics. And the town itself we enjoyed even more than Collioure. It's "the real deal", not spoiled by tourism, very genuine, and it proudly proclaims its catalan heritage (town hall promotes catalan and sardana classes, proudly waves the catalan flag).
Ceret, for us, is one of the most charming towns in French Catalonia (with great food by th way-we loved the market).
www.musee-ceret.com
www.ceret.fr
We'd love to return someday and stay at the Terrasse au Soleil and dine at Le Cerisaie.
www.terrasse-au-soleil.com
I agree with Carlux that in high season the charm of Collioure goes out the window, since it's virtually impossible to even park aftewr 9:30 am. So if you have a chance in Feb. rather than late June-July-Aug., I would give it a try.
We were across the border in late Jan. last year (Figueres & Peralada), and we enjoyed warmish, sunny days. We had expected to be bothered by the winds but didn't experience them at all. Wanted to get back up to Ceret and Collioure but ran out of time.
I would urge you not to miss the wonderful Museum of Modern Art in Ceret and especially its wonderful collection of Picassos's ceramics. And the town itself we enjoyed even more than Collioure. It's "the real deal", not spoiled by tourism, very genuine, and it proudly proclaims its catalan heritage (town hall promotes catalan and sardana classes, proudly waves the catalan flag).
Ceret, for us, is one of the most charming towns in French Catalonia (with great food by th way-we loved the market).
www.musee-ceret.com
www.ceret.fr
We'd love to return someday and stay at the Terrasse au Soleil and dine at Le Cerisaie.
www.terrasse-au-soleil.com
Dec 21st, 2007 | 10:55 AM
#14
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>>Having been in Paris for christmas one year when they experienced the storm of the century that felled over 1000 trees in Versailles, I know that things can happen to mar any vacation <,
Nasty weather will mar a much higher percent of things to do in Collioure than in Paris. Even in good weather, Colloiure is a 1-2 hr visit max IMO (< 1 hr for us). Stay loose & perhaps visit Girona, Barcelona, or Toulouse if the weather looks bad.
Stu Dudley
Nasty weather will mar a much higher percent of things to do in Collioure than in Paris. Even in good weather, Colloiure is a 1-2 hr visit max IMO (< 1 hr for us). Stay loose & perhaps visit Girona, Barcelona, or Toulouse if the weather looks bad.
Stu Dudley
Dec 21st, 2007 | 12:27 PM
#15
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ok you guys. I get the picture, I'm taking a chance but it could be ok. So I'm thinking it will be a bit like our trip to Menton in November--we got lucky and loved it even though it was the nadir of their season. I'll definitely add a trek to Ceret into the itinerary and maybe even Perpignan. Have been to Figueres and Girona but depending upon time available, may stop again. Intend to stay a night or two at El Far just outside Palafrugel so we're definitely hoping for good weather. Keep your fingers crossed for me--and if it doesn't work, I'll let you tell me
"I told you so." Whatever, we'll wind up with 4 or 5 days in Barcelona, so we'll finish good regardless of how we start. Thanks for all your comments and for trying to point me in the right direction.
"I told you so." Whatever, we'll wind up with 4 or 5 days in Barcelona, so we'll finish good regardless of how we start. Thanks for all your comments and for trying to point me in the right direction.
Dec 21st, 2007 | 06:04 PM
#16
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Julie,
Jan.-Feb. on the Costa Brava and the Cote Vermeille will be their nadir of the season. We hesitated for that reason but ended up having a delightful time-no crowds, no traffic, blissful quiet.
I know El Far in Llafranc. If you decide on it, I would book a room with terrace rather than balcony-they're more special and private. It's closed until Feb. 3, so we stayed for 5 nights at the Parador. Equally stunning views, and each room there has a small terrace.
The only downside we found in winter was the limited dining options. The extremely helpful tourist office in highly atmospheric Begur gives out restaurant lists for each month of low season. We did our nice dining at lunch while touring (Empordá in Figueres, La Placa in Madremanya, Mas Comangau in Begur, Iberic in Ullastret).
Don't miss the walk up to the castle-in-ruins for stunning views!.
In the past we hadn't spent much time in Begur, so we're so glad we got to get to know the delightful town sans hordes of tourists. I recommend it to you along with Ceret.
On the Spanish side, I would certainly stay in the Begur to Palafrugell area where El Far is, which will be more lively in Feb. than further north.
If you can wait until Feb. 15, you'll have more dining options in that area (La Cuina de Can Pipes, Aiguaclara in Begur, Tragamar in Calella-Ca L'Enric in Olot). The area slowly begins to come out of hibernation then.
Like escrunchy, I always look forward to your wonderfully detailed food reports!
Just some thoughts...
Jan.-Feb. on the Costa Brava and the Cote Vermeille will be their nadir of the season. We hesitated for that reason but ended up having a delightful time-no crowds, no traffic, blissful quiet.
I know El Far in Llafranc. If you decide on it, I would book a room with terrace rather than balcony-they're more special and private. It's closed until Feb. 3, so we stayed for 5 nights at the Parador. Equally stunning views, and each room there has a small terrace.
The only downside we found in winter was the limited dining options. The extremely helpful tourist office in highly atmospheric Begur gives out restaurant lists for each month of low season. We did our nice dining at lunch while touring (Empordá in Figueres, La Placa in Madremanya, Mas Comangau in Begur, Iberic in Ullastret).
Don't miss the walk up to the castle-in-ruins for stunning views!.
In the past we hadn't spent much time in Begur, so we're so glad we got to get to know the delightful town sans hordes of tourists. I recommend it to you along with Ceret.
On the Spanish side, I would certainly stay in the Begur to Palafrugell area where El Far is, which will be more lively in Feb. than further north.
If you can wait until Feb. 15, you'll have more dining options in that area (La Cuina de Can Pipes, Aiguaclara in Begur, Tragamar in Calella-Ca L'Enric in Olot). The area slowly begins to come out of hibernation then.
Like escrunchy, I always look forward to your wonderfully detailed food reports!
Just some thoughts...
Dec 21st, 2007 | 09:47 PM
#17
Joined: Jan 2003
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Collioure is one of those places that I'd heard about from here on Fodor's chat; comments weighed in more towards the "touristy", "over-rated" variety, so we were pleasantly surprised by our unplanned short, over-night stay in late September.
The surrounding natural beauty of the hills/mountains, the water, the beaches and fortress as seen by the (best value for time/money) tourist train that chugs through the vinyards, by the windmill, up and over to the next town, and returning by the fishing fleet is most memorable...but the sun WAS shining through the little stretches of mist and rain that day--and I have to admit with Stu that it made ALL the difference in the world. No sun, no train, no breakfast in the sun on the beach at La Copacobana with the surf breaking watching families play with their children...it would have been less memorable. But it was a REAL town with REAL people if you went on the side streets--we watched the locals processing the grape harvest and cleaning the equipment, watched the night's European Cup game on TV with the locals, cheering and exclaining along with them in the local taverne. It was special in a "normal" untouristy way.
Long ago I visited Provence in February,-miserable with the Mistral-and have little desire to return when given other options. Sad, as I realize there are wonderful things to see and do there-but I always choose somewhere else first since then. I would hate for you to have the same impression of Collioure and the surrounding area.
If and when you do go- we had a nice Catalan inspired meal at La Frégate right on the quais, opposite the Chateau. Hotel Casa Paraïl was "complet", so we stay at the simpler Mas des Citroniers next door. Our special fresh Seafood meal was exceptional at the Michelin 2 forks Al Fanal Restaurant (part of the Logis de France El Llagut) in Banyuls-sur-Mer. (www.al-fanal.com) Wonderful cuisine served with obvious pride-be sure to make reservations. Menu Ballade (30 euros), Menu catalan (38 euros) 1/2 Cornet (17 euros) 2 Banyuls cornet tardive (6 euros) with 2 expresso-- the total was 96 euros for lunch...can hardly wait to experience it again! And the drive was nice along the way.
Now that winter has settled in, Collioure has become a highlight memory, and I can hardly wait to return...for no speical reason; it is an "over-all" impression. Just one of those romantic moments in a vacation vignette.
Best Wishes on your visit!
The surrounding natural beauty of the hills/mountains, the water, the beaches and fortress as seen by the (best value for time/money) tourist train that chugs through the vinyards, by the windmill, up and over to the next town, and returning by the fishing fleet is most memorable...but the sun WAS shining through the little stretches of mist and rain that day--and I have to admit with Stu that it made ALL the difference in the world. No sun, no train, no breakfast in the sun on the beach at La Copacobana with the surf breaking watching families play with their children...it would have been less memorable. But it was a REAL town with REAL people if you went on the side streets--we watched the locals processing the grape harvest and cleaning the equipment, watched the night's European Cup game on TV with the locals, cheering and exclaining along with them in the local taverne. It was special in a "normal" untouristy way.
Long ago I visited Provence in February,-miserable with the Mistral-and have little desire to return when given other options. Sad, as I realize there are wonderful things to see and do there-but I always choose somewhere else first since then. I would hate for you to have the same impression of Collioure and the surrounding area.
If and when you do go- we had a nice Catalan inspired meal at La Frégate right on the quais, opposite the Chateau. Hotel Casa Paraïl was "complet", so we stay at the simpler Mas des Citroniers next door. Our special fresh Seafood meal was exceptional at the Michelin 2 forks Al Fanal Restaurant (part of the Logis de France El Llagut) in Banyuls-sur-Mer. (www.al-fanal.com) Wonderful cuisine served with obvious pride-be sure to make reservations. Menu Ballade (30 euros), Menu catalan (38 euros) 1/2 Cornet (17 euros) 2 Banyuls cornet tardive (6 euros) with 2 expresso-- the total was 96 euros for lunch...can hardly wait to experience it again! And the drive was nice along the way.
Now that winter has settled in, Collioure has become a highlight memory, and I can hardly wait to return...for no speical reason; it is an "over-all" impression. Just one of those romantic moments in a vacation vignette.
Best Wishes on your visit!
Dec 22nd, 2007 | 01:15 AM
#18
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Klondike
Great post!
If you get back this sometime, pass over to Port Vendres. It's about 2 kms further down the road.
The food is great, since this is a fishing port. Try the restaurant Le Chalut, near the harbor. They have a menu for 14 euros and it's not touristy food. Example would be a starter as a big bowl of mussels, followed by some local fish plate. Of course there's a dessert but the wine is extra.
Here's a photo of my Swedish friend savouring the mussels.
http://www.la-petite-reine-argeles.c...t%20chalut.jpg
I hope this URL works.
Cheers
Blackduff
Great post!
If you get back this sometime, pass over to Port Vendres. It's about 2 kms further down the road.
The food is great, since this is a fishing port. Try the restaurant Le Chalut, near the harbor. They have a menu for 14 euros and it's not touristy food. Example would be a starter as a big bowl of mussels, followed by some local fish plate. Of course there's a dessert but the wine is extra.
Here's a photo of my Swedish friend savouring the mussels.
http://www.la-petite-reine-argeles.c...t%20chalut.jpg
I hope this URL works.
Cheers
Blackduff
Dec 22nd, 2007 | 01:57 AM
#19
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Gosh. I've sometimes spent days slaving away on multi-page reports and not evoked so much response as this one little post. It's sure that one way or the other Collioure makes an impression on those who have been there. Thanks so much to all of you. I will certainly pack this into my trip file and consult it for restaurant and sightseeing suggestions in the vicinity--and it turns out that I may be staying somewhere in the vicinity rather than in Collioure proper, since I'm having a bit of a time finding the places that appeal to me from their website pictures to be open during our time frame--which will be Feb. 22 and 23. Whatever happens I'm getting very excited about finally going. Let the chips fall where they may. Thanks again. I'm so glad to be back planning trips rather than working on condo business. Ugh!! 2008 resolution--enjoy life!
Dec 22nd, 2007 | 08:24 AM
#20
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More info about Roussillon region:
We stayed in this area for 2 weeks, and never ran out of things to do. I’ll describe 3 separate driving & sightseeing itineraries, which you can follow or combine anyway you like. Roussillon is a very scenic area – at the foot of the Pyrenees and next to the Mediterranean. However, there are a few sections that are not as scenic as the remainder of this region. Look at the #344 map. The rectangle east of the A9, north of the D618, and south of the D627 from the A9 #40 exit to Leucate is an area that gets some sprawl from Perpignan, and along the coast there are a lot of mass vacation developments that are not real pretty (there’s even a nudist resort). The beach is very nice white sand, but the hundreds of vacation homes, campgrounds, and high-rises, are not what I enjoy experiencing. Perpignan is certainly worth visiting, however. Also, Amelie les Bains on the Tech river is not worth a visit (I was pre-warned of this by my internet friend & confirmed by us when we drove through Amelie many times).
Mount Canigou*** can be seen from almost anywhere in this region – at least it seems that way. You won’t have any trouble spotting it.
Route #1 – the Tech river area.
Find le Perthus on the map – it’s on the France/Spain border. In fact, one side of the street is in Spain & the other in France. The Spain side has a lot of discount shops, but the “scene” is horrible – I would not waste any valuable vacation time trying to save a few Euros on cigarettes, wine, trinkets, etc. Look up “Boulou” in the GG and take drive #2. As you approach le Perthus, there is a parking lot on your left just before you hit the traffic & pedestrian snarled main section of the town. Turn left just past the parking lot & take this drive #2 east as far as you can. It’s marked as the D71. We drove it twice – in the morning & again in the evening (the morning sights were better because of the position of the sun). If it’s a clear day, there are spectacular views on this drive. It is also a popular place for picnics. Return to le Perthus, and then to Ceret on the N9 and D618. Visit Ceret*. There is a famous Musee d’Art modern**, but since we’re not modern art fans, we didn’t visit it. The town, however, is worth a stroll around. There are some nice plane trees in town, with some outdoor cafes. Saturday is market day. Ceret is the center of the cherry growing region, and you’ll see dozens of stands selling cherries in late May/early June.
Look up “Vallespir*” in the Green Guide, and take the D115 west along the Tech River. Just past Arles, you’ll see signs for the Gorges de la Fou** (in the GG under “Arles sur Tech”). Park the car in the lot & walk along a metal grate suspended above this gorge. The gorge is only about 3 ft wide in spots – it’s an easy & interesting exploration. Return to your car & head east on the D115 for about 1 K & then turn left (north) on the D43 at Arles. This route is described as “Round tour west of Arles” under “Arles” in the GG. The first part goes through some forests, but later there are nice views. When the D43 hits Corsavy, take the D43 north (departing from the itinerary in the GG). After about 8 K or so, turn the car around & retrace your route – there are some very nice views from this road. When you get back to Corsavy, turn right on the D44 and continue on the GG route to le Tech. This will join the D115 west (very pretty in this section) to Prats de Mollo* (see GG). Park the car & explore Prats – follow the walk described in the GG.
After visiting Prats, continue west on the D115 to the Col d’Ares. At the Col, turn the car around & retrace your route east towards Arles – this is a pretty drive. About 4 K before reaching Arles, take the D3 south towards Coustouges (see GG under Arles). Continue past the town of Coustouges into Spain on the D3 which becomes the GI503 in Spain. My internet friend who lives in Roussillon suggested this drive – it’s quite pretty. Continue on the GI503 until it hits the GI504 & take this north to the #2 entrance on the A7 freeway, where you will return to France. Don’t take the N9 into France unless you like lots of stop & go traffic at Le Perthus.
Route #2 – cute village, scenic gorges, wonderful countryside, and Cathars castles.
This is an ambitious itinerary, so get an early start. If you’re staying in Collioure, drive toward Ceret on the D114, D618, and then D115. Take the D615 north of Ceret towards Thuir. Use the map & get on the D48 west to Castelneu+. Explore Castelnou (GG under Perpignan). One of my guidebooks described it as “St Paul de Vence without the tourists”. It’s a cute town. After a visit, take the D48 west and then the D2 to Ille-sur-Tet. Continue past Ille-sur-Tet on the D2 and when it crosses over the N116, you will approach les Orgues+. There is a picture of les Orgues in my Michelin Guide under Perpignan. You may have to take the D21 a bit towards Belesta to get some good views. Turn around on the D21 and then take the D2 back to Ille and get on the N116 heading west (you will have to go through Ille a little to do this – follow the signs to Prades). Continue west to Prades, taking a picture of Eus if you have not done so yet. Take the loop north around Prades and then take the D619 north. Look up Fenouilledes** in the Green Guide. Follow the described route from Prades to St Paul – it’s quite picturesque. When you intersect the D117 at St Paul, take the D117 west – this road is quite scenic too. At Axat, take the D118 south through the Gorges de St Georges*. When you get as far as the D16 fork near Rouze, turn the car around and retrace your route all the way back to St Paul. At St Paul, take the D7 north through the spectacular Gorges de Galamus** (see GG under Galamus). There is a picture of this gorge in the guide. At times, the road is only 1 car width wide. We were there in mid June & we didn’t encounter another car – I don’t know what happens in July or August when there are more tourists.
At Cubieres, take the D14 towards Chateau de Peyrepertuse***. If you have not already done so, read about the Cathars faith in the Green Guide (or other guidebook) and learn about their religion, life, and fate. Visit this chateau, but be aware that some climbing & walking is necessary. The French don’t like to install escalators or paved walkways to get to their historic sites, so you’ll have to walk along dirt paths, over rocks, & through some low hung trees to get to the chateau. Also, walking around the Chateau is treacherous at times – but worth it. Plan on a 2 hour visit. There is a picture of the Chateau in the Green Guide. After visiting the Chateau, head east on the D14 towards another Cathar’s stronghold – the Chateau de Queribus*. As you leave Peyrepertuse & drive to Queribus, search the crest of the ridge to your right & try to find Peyrepertuse hidden among the rock formations. We did not visit Queribus – Peyrepertuse was enough hiking & climbing for the day. The view of Queribus from the road is spectacular. Take the D19 south towards Maury – this road is very scenic. At Maury (famous for their sweet wine) head east on the D117 & then back to the hotel. It’s difficult to get on the A9 freeway from the D117 – we tried to do so on two occasions & got lost both times.
Route #3 – Collioure, Banyuls, Costa Brava in Spain, and Perpignan
If you are staying in Collioure**, then you will have explored this town thoroughly by now. They have an OK Sunday market. It’s very difficult to park in Collioure, so we usually like to visit it early in the morning, or later in the day when there are fewer day trippers. If you are starting this drive from somewhere other than Collioure, take the northern most exit to Collioure off the N114 – it’s more scenic. After visiting Collioure head south on the coast road past Port Vendres to Banyuls*. When you get out of Port Vendres, the route to Banyuls becomes very scenic. Banyuls is noted for their sweet wine, and you’ll see lots of vineyards along the way. However, they look like abandoned vineyards & you will wonder how they could possibly get grapes to grow on them – somehow, they do!!. Stop in Banyuls for a visit if you like – we didn’t, so I can’t comment on Banyuls, except that they have a nice restaurant in town – we dined there twice. Continue south on the N114 & into Spain. The coastline is quite spectacular here. Continue to Llanca, where you will run out of map. Take the GI612 and the GI613 to Cadaques**. Park the car & explore this coastal resort town – it’s quite nice. There are lots of café’s, and the town’s buildings are all painted white – quite different than the villages in France. After visiting Cadaques, take the GI614 west to Figueres, where you will get on the Freeway heading north to Perpignan.
Perpignan** has quite a bit of urban sprawl, but the old part of town is well worth exploring. Be patient when you drive into town & find a place to park. We got lost twice. If you are visiting Perpignan in the morning, have a coffee at one of the outside cafes next to le Castillet. If you are here at lunchtime, there are lots of outdoor cafes on Quai Vauban along the river. Quite a few shops attracted my wife’s attention on R Mailly. I enjoyed the musee Hyacinthe-Rigaud. The Palais des Rois de Majorque was worth a visit. Follow the suggested walking plan in the GG – starting at le Castillet however.
Fort de Salses** See “Salses” in the Green Guide. If you can possibly fit this into your schedule, then by all means, do so. Read about it in the guide. There is a guided tour, and the guide spoke English when asked to do so.
Restaurants - from my wife's diary:
Hostalet de Vives in Vives - rating - lots of food (6/04)
We reserved at the Hostalet de Vives, which according to the Michelin guide serves “gargantuesques plats catalans” (no need for translation!). The restaurant was located in a very quaint stone building & had a terrace, though the dining was indoors tonight. We thought we’d be prudent in ordering based on the warning about portion size, so we thought we’d just order 2 courses each a la carte. I was even more cautious & decided to stick with 2 starter courses only. I started with the salade de morue. Needless to say, it was huge – big chunks of cod (cheviche, marinated), with lettuce and garnishes of mushrooms, hard boiled eggs and lots of garlic (7 “breath assures” worth). I concentrated on eating the morue, which was fabulous. Stu started with the escargots Catalan style – served in a round earthenware casserole with a tomato-based sauce. I was ready to call for “l’addition” when the main courses came! When the waiter brought mine (grilled bread with tomatoes, zucchini, more garlic, lots of anchovies, and at least a dozen large slices of prochiutto) I literally asked if it was all for me? (I thought maybe they offered this huge platter & each person took a helping – kind of buffet style, but nooooo….all for me). It was truly a shocking amount of food & I’m guessing that I ate about ¼ of it. I felt so guilty about wasting food that I furtively put about 8 slices of the prochiutto in my purse (breakfast & lunch for probably a couple of days). Stu’s choice took the cake! He had ordered a traditional Catalan dish called “boles” – reported to be meatballs served with olives & smoked bacon. Well, after the waiter brought the four 8” round & 2” deep casseroles of food (all constituting this one menu selection!) I thought my eyes would fall out of my head. This really looked like an “all you can eat” buffet, but with the whole buffet set up in front of Stu. In addition to the meatballs, there were 3 more dishes - one each of potatoes, fava beans, and white beans. If I had been able to stash his un-eaten portions in my purse, we probably would have had our dinners for the remainder of the week accounted for. The waiter seemed genuinely surprised that we didn’t want dessert. We waddled to the car, still shaking our heads over the portions.
Al Fanal in Banyuls – rating 7 (6/04) we dined here twice
The drive to dinner was breathtaking – with the hills planted everywhere with grapevines. The vines were planted in small patches so the texture of the vineyards changed constantly. The restaurant was a very nice, simple place with a nautical décor – nothing schocky, but quite tastefully done. On warm days, there are large windows that can be opened up to enhance the views of the bay and the town. I had the menu a 20E, starting with moules gratinees, topped with toasted almonds (something different, but quite pleasing). Then I had the cabillaud (ling cod) with a fennel cream sauce & a puree of potatoes & cockles. For dessert, I had the dessert of the day – something with candied fruit in a fromage blanc. Stu had the menu a 27, starting also with the moules, followed by a canneton (duck family) with lardons fumes, accompanied by a broccoli gratinee. He then had the crème Catalan for dessert. We both had a sweet Banyuls wine for an aperitif & a rose wine with dinner. We both agreed that the meal was excellent & really an extraordinary value.
On our second dinner here, we both had the 20E menu. This time we both started with the soupe de poisson – an excellent version with a lot of “texture”. This dish varies considerably among restaurants where it is served & the consistency is usually an immediate clue as to how it tastes: thick is good, thin is not good. This was very thick & attractively served in boat-shaped bowls, along with the required “accessories” – aioli, toasts, & grated cheese. This version had a garlic clove that could be rubbed over the toasts. Stu then added in a “supplement” a la carte course of the moules gratinee with almonds. For our main courses we both had the perch fillets on lemon risotto served with carrot & cumin sauce. We both had the dessert of the day – a rich chocolate gateau served with raspberry sauce.
Restaurant Amadeus in Argeles Plage – Rating 6 (6/04)
After having read that the town was a “camping mecca” attracting “tens of thousands” of people in the summer, we were kind of apprehensive. We were there in mid June which is before the July/August French vacation onslaught, and the town was quite peaceful. We had an excellent dinner there (and good value!). We both had le menu a 33E. I started with a fish cheviche with “guacamole” served with a thin but soft (not crisp) cumin bread. What great flavors - I was in heaven. Then I had swordfish served with soy-tossed & wok-cooked julienned vegetables. We then had a refresher course of an anise-flavored sorbet, followed by a cheese course, for which I had chosen the fromage blanc with honey. For dessert I had pears poached in Maury champagne, served with vanilla ice cream. Stu started with a plate of 9 oysters, then had grilled bar served with pepper ice cream. For his cheese course, he had 2 formed mounds of herbed soft cheese with toasts. For dessert he had a soft-flowing chocolate cake accompanied by ice cream.
Neptune in Collioure – rating 8 (6/04) This is a Michelin 1 star restaurant
We decided to go into Collioure a bit early for Stu’s birthday dinner to have an aperitif at the port. We got a front row seat on the main beach area. The restaurant had a lovely setting, and they were serving on their enclosed terrace. The view from the terrace was wonderful, especially as the sun lowered in the sky. Since it was his birthday, Stu went for the mega-gourmand menu a 79E. But, we started with 2 courses of amuse bouches – cheese batons & pastry toasts with tomato & cheese, then a firm chilled “soup” with three layers: avocado mousse on top, a crustacean gelee layer, with crab at the bottom. Stu’s first course was 2 discs of lobster wrapped in bacon, with cannelloni stuffed with basil mousse & a green herb sauce delicately drizzled on it all. He then had loup with 2 oysters & asparagus spears fanned out from the fish, all drizzled with a buttery herb sauce. Then (!!) he had pigeon breast (cooked rose) stuffed with foie gras & a game reduction sauce, served on a “cake” of grains. Finally, for dessert he had a raspberry millefeulle with ice cream & a raspberry sauce. My dinner (48.50E) started with Collioure anchovies (a local specialty) with red peppers & a green basil/herb sauce. Aside from the fantastic flavors, the presentation was most interesting as far as the arrangements on the plate. Then I had lotte en brochette. A lemongrass spear was used to skewer the chunks of fish. The lotte was wrapped in leeks, all served with a citrus sauce. I had the “all chocolate” dessert: chocolate ice cream, chocolate mousse, with crème anglaise.
Stu Dudley
We stayed in this area for 2 weeks, and never ran out of things to do. I’ll describe 3 separate driving & sightseeing itineraries, which you can follow or combine anyway you like. Roussillon is a very scenic area – at the foot of the Pyrenees and next to the Mediterranean. However, there are a few sections that are not as scenic as the remainder of this region. Look at the #344 map. The rectangle east of the A9, north of the D618, and south of the D627 from the A9 #40 exit to Leucate is an area that gets some sprawl from Perpignan, and along the coast there are a lot of mass vacation developments that are not real pretty (there’s even a nudist resort). The beach is very nice white sand, but the hundreds of vacation homes, campgrounds, and high-rises, are not what I enjoy experiencing. Perpignan is certainly worth visiting, however. Also, Amelie les Bains on the Tech river is not worth a visit (I was pre-warned of this by my internet friend & confirmed by us when we drove through Amelie many times).
Mount Canigou*** can be seen from almost anywhere in this region – at least it seems that way. You won’t have any trouble spotting it.
Route #1 – the Tech river area.
Find le Perthus on the map – it’s on the France/Spain border. In fact, one side of the street is in Spain & the other in France. The Spain side has a lot of discount shops, but the “scene” is horrible – I would not waste any valuable vacation time trying to save a few Euros on cigarettes, wine, trinkets, etc. Look up “Boulou” in the GG and take drive #2. As you approach le Perthus, there is a parking lot on your left just before you hit the traffic & pedestrian snarled main section of the town. Turn left just past the parking lot & take this drive #2 east as far as you can. It’s marked as the D71. We drove it twice – in the morning & again in the evening (the morning sights were better because of the position of the sun). If it’s a clear day, there are spectacular views on this drive. It is also a popular place for picnics. Return to le Perthus, and then to Ceret on the N9 and D618. Visit Ceret*. There is a famous Musee d’Art modern**, but since we’re not modern art fans, we didn’t visit it. The town, however, is worth a stroll around. There are some nice plane trees in town, with some outdoor cafes. Saturday is market day. Ceret is the center of the cherry growing region, and you’ll see dozens of stands selling cherries in late May/early June.
Look up “Vallespir*” in the Green Guide, and take the D115 west along the Tech River. Just past Arles, you’ll see signs for the Gorges de la Fou** (in the GG under “Arles sur Tech”). Park the car in the lot & walk along a metal grate suspended above this gorge. The gorge is only about 3 ft wide in spots – it’s an easy & interesting exploration. Return to your car & head east on the D115 for about 1 K & then turn left (north) on the D43 at Arles. This route is described as “Round tour west of Arles” under “Arles” in the GG. The first part goes through some forests, but later there are nice views. When the D43 hits Corsavy, take the D43 north (departing from the itinerary in the GG). After about 8 K or so, turn the car around & retrace your route – there are some very nice views from this road. When you get back to Corsavy, turn right on the D44 and continue on the GG route to le Tech. This will join the D115 west (very pretty in this section) to Prats de Mollo* (see GG). Park the car & explore Prats – follow the walk described in the GG.
After visiting Prats, continue west on the D115 to the Col d’Ares. At the Col, turn the car around & retrace your route east towards Arles – this is a pretty drive. About 4 K before reaching Arles, take the D3 south towards Coustouges (see GG under Arles). Continue past the town of Coustouges into Spain on the D3 which becomes the GI503 in Spain. My internet friend who lives in Roussillon suggested this drive – it’s quite pretty. Continue on the GI503 until it hits the GI504 & take this north to the #2 entrance on the A7 freeway, where you will return to France. Don’t take the N9 into France unless you like lots of stop & go traffic at Le Perthus.
Route #2 – cute village, scenic gorges, wonderful countryside, and Cathars castles.
This is an ambitious itinerary, so get an early start. If you’re staying in Collioure, drive toward Ceret on the D114, D618, and then D115. Take the D615 north of Ceret towards Thuir. Use the map & get on the D48 west to Castelneu+. Explore Castelnou (GG under Perpignan). One of my guidebooks described it as “St Paul de Vence without the tourists”. It’s a cute town. After a visit, take the D48 west and then the D2 to Ille-sur-Tet. Continue past Ille-sur-Tet on the D2 and when it crosses over the N116, you will approach les Orgues+. There is a picture of les Orgues in my Michelin Guide under Perpignan. You may have to take the D21 a bit towards Belesta to get some good views. Turn around on the D21 and then take the D2 back to Ille and get on the N116 heading west (you will have to go through Ille a little to do this – follow the signs to Prades). Continue west to Prades, taking a picture of Eus if you have not done so yet. Take the loop north around Prades and then take the D619 north. Look up Fenouilledes** in the Green Guide. Follow the described route from Prades to St Paul – it’s quite picturesque. When you intersect the D117 at St Paul, take the D117 west – this road is quite scenic too. At Axat, take the D118 south through the Gorges de St Georges*. When you get as far as the D16 fork near Rouze, turn the car around and retrace your route all the way back to St Paul. At St Paul, take the D7 north through the spectacular Gorges de Galamus** (see GG under Galamus). There is a picture of this gorge in the guide. At times, the road is only 1 car width wide. We were there in mid June & we didn’t encounter another car – I don’t know what happens in July or August when there are more tourists.
At Cubieres, take the D14 towards Chateau de Peyrepertuse***. If you have not already done so, read about the Cathars faith in the Green Guide (or other guidebook) and learn about their religion, life, and fate. Visit this chateau, but be aware that some climbing & walking is necessary. The French don’t like to install escalators or paved walkways to get to their historic sites, so you’ll have to walk along dirt paths, over rocks, & through some low hung trees to get to the chateau. Also, walking around the Chateau is treacherous at times – but worth it. Plan on a 2 hour visit. There is a picture of the Chateau in the Green Guide. After visiting the Chateau, head east on the D14 towards another Cathar’s stronghold – the Chateau de Queribus*. As you leave Peyrepertuse & drive to Queribus, search the crest of the ridge to your right & try to find Peyrepertuse hidden among the rock formations. We did not visit Queribus – Peyrepertuse was enough hiking & climbing for the day. The view of Queribus from the road is spectacular. Take the D19 south towards Maury – this road is very scenic. At Maury (famous for their sweet wine) head east on the D117 & then back to the hotel. It’s difficult to get on the A9 freeway from the D117 – we tried to do so on two occasions & got lost both times.
Route #3 – Collioure, Banyuls, Costa Brava in Spain, and Perpignan
If you are staying in Collioure**, then you will have explored this town thoroughly by now. They have an OK Sunday market. It’s very difficult to park in Collioure, so we usually like to visit it early in the morning, or later in the day when there are fewer day trippers. If you are starting this drive from somewhere other than Collioure, take the northern most exit to Collioure off the N114 – it’s more scenic. After visiting Collioure head south on the coast road past Port Vendres to Banyuls*. When you get out of Port Vendres, the route to Banyuls becomes very scenic. Banyuls is noted for their sweet wine, and you’ll see lots of vineyards along the way. However, they look like abandoned vineyards & you will wonder how they could possibly get grapes to grow on them – somehow, they do!!. Stop in Banyuls for a visit if you like – we didn’t, so I can’t comment on Banyuls, except that they have a nice restaurant in town – we dined there twice. Continue south on the N114 & into Spain. The coastline is quite spectacular here. Continue to Llanca, where you will run out of map. Take the GI612 and the GI613 to Cadaques**. Park the car & explore this coastal resort town – it’s quite nice. There are lots of café’s, and the town’s buildings are all painted white – quite different than the villages in France. After visiting Cadaques, take the GI614 west to Figueres, where you will get on the Freeway heading north to Perpignan.
Perpignan** has quite a bit of urban sprawl, but the old part of town is well worth exploring. Be patient when you drive into town & find a place to park. We got lost twice. If you are visiting Perpignan in the morning, have a coffee at one of the outside cafes next to le Castillet. If you are here at lunchtime, there are lots of outdoor cafes on Quai Vauban along the river. Quite a few shops attracted my wife’s attention on R Mailly. I enjoyed the musee Hyacinthe-Rigaud. The Palais des Rois de Majorque was worth a visit. Follow the suggested walking plan in the GG – starting at le Castillet however.
Fort de Salses** See “Salses” in the Green Guide. If you can possibly fit this into your schedule, then by all means, do so. Read about it in the guide. There is a guided tour, and the guide spoke English when asked to do so.
Restaurants - from my wife's diary:
Hostalet de Vives in Vives - rating - lots of food (6/04)
We reserved at the Hostalet de Vives, which according to the Michelin guide serves “gargantuesques plats catalans” (no need for translation!). The restaurant was located in a very quaint stone building & had a terrace, though the dining was indoors tonight. We thought we’d be prudent in ordering based on the warning about portion size, so we thought we’d just order 2 courses each a la carte. I was even more cautious & decided to stick with 2 starter courses only. I started with the salade de morue. Needless to say, it was huge – big chunks of cod (cheviche, marinated), with lettuce and garnishes of mushrooms, hard boiled eggs and lots of garlic (7 “breath assures” worth). I concentrated on eating the morue, which was fabulous. Stu started with the escargots Catalan style – served in a round earthenware casserole with a tomato-based sauce. I was ready to call for “l’addition” when the main courses came! When the waiter brought mine (grilled bread with tomatoes, zucchini, more garlic, lots of anchovies, and at least a dozen large slices of prochiutto) I literally asked if it was all for me? (I thought maybe they offered this huge platter & each person took a helping – kind of buffet style, but nooooo….all for me). It was truly a shocking amount of food & I’m guessing that I ate about ¼ of it. I felt so guilty about wasting food that I furtively put about 8 slices of the prochiutto in my purse (breakfast & lunch for probably a couple of days). Stu’s choice took the cake! He had ordered a traditional Catalan dish called “boles” – reported to be meatballs served with olives & smoked bacon. Well, after the waiter brought the four 8” round & 2” deep casseroles of food (all constituting this one menu selection!) I thought my eyes would fall out of my head. This really looked like an “all you can eat” buffet, but with the whole buffet set up in front of Stu. In addition to the meatballs, there were 3 more dishes - one each of potatoes, fava beans, and white beans. If I had been able to stash his un-eaten portions in my purse, we probably would have had our dinners for the remainder of the week accounted for. The waiter seemed genuinely surprised that we didn’t want dessert. We waddled to the car, still shaking our heads over the portions.
Al Fanal in Banyuls – rating 7 (6/04) we dined here twice
The drive to dinner was breathtaking – with the hills planted everywhere with grapevines. The vines were planted in small patches so the texture of the vineyards changed constantly. The restaurant was a very nice, simple place with a nautical décor – nothing schocky, but quite tastefully done. On warm days, there are large windows that can be opened up to enhance the views of the bay and the town. I had the menu a 20E, starting with moules gratinees, topped with toasted almonds (something different, but quite pleasing). Then I had the cabillaud (ling cod) with a fennel cream sauce & a puree of potatoes & cockles. For dessert, I had the dessert of the day – something with candied fruit in a fromage blanc. Stu had the menu a 27, starting also with the moules, followed by a canneton (duck family) with lardons fumes, accompanied by a broccoli gratinee. He then had the crème Catalan for dessert. We both had a sweet Banyuls wine for an aperitif & a rose wine with dinner. We both agreed that the meal was excellent & really an extraordinary value.
On our second dinner here, we both had the 20E menu. This time we both started with the soupe de poisson – an excellent version with a lot of “texture”. This dish varies considerably among restaurants where it is served & the consistency is usually an immediate clue as to how it tastes: thick is good, thin is not good. This was very thick & attractively served in boat-shaped bowls, along with the required “accessories” – aioli, toasts, & grated cheese. This version had a garlic clove that could be rubbed over the toasts. Stu then added in a “supplement” a la carte course of the moules gratinee with almonds. For our main courses we both had the perch fillets on lemon risotto served with carrot & cumin sauce. We both had the dessert of the day – a rich chocolate gateau served with raspberry sauce.
Restaurant Amadeus in Argeles Plage – Rating 6 (6/04)
After having read that the town was a “camping mecca” attracting “tens of thousands” of people in the summer, we were kind of apprehensive. We were there in mid June which is before the July/August French vacation onslaught, and the town was quite peaceful. We had an excellent dinner there (and good value!). We both had le menu a 33E. I started with a fish cheviche with “guacamole” served with a thin but soft (not crisp) cumin bread. What great flavors - I was in heaven. Then I had swordfish served with soy-tossed & wok-cooked julienned vegetables. We then had a refresher course of an anise-flavored sorbet, followed by a cheese course, for which I had chosen the fromage blanc with honey. For dessert I had pears poached in Maury champagne, served with vanilla ice cream. Stu started with a plate of 9 oysters, then had grilled bar served with pepper ice cream. For his cheese course, he had 2 formed mounds of herbed soft cheese with toasts. For dessert he had a soft-flowing chocolate cake accompanied by ice cream.
Neptune in Collioure – rating 8 (6/04) This is a Michelin 1 star restaurant
We decided to go into Collioure a bit early for Stu’s birthday dinner to have an aperitif at the port. We got a front row seat on the main beach area. The restaurant had a lovely setting, and they were serving on their enclosed terrace. The view from the terrace was wonderful, especially as the sun lowered in the sky. Since it was his birthday, Stu went for the mega-gourmand menu a 79E. But, we started with 2 courses of amuse bouches – cheese batons & pastry toasts with tomato & cheese, then a firm chilled “soup” with three layers: avocado mousse on top, a crustacean gelee layer, with crab at the bottom. Stu’s first course was 2 discs of lobster wrapped in bacon, with cannelloni stuffed with basil mousse & a green herb sauce delicately drizzled on it all. He then had loup with 2 oysters & asparagus spears fanned out from the fish, all drizzled with a buttery herb sauce. Then (!!) he had pigeon breast (cooked rose) stuffed with foie gras & a game reduction sauce, served on a “cake” of grains. Finally, for dessert he had a raspberry millefeulle with ice cream & a raspberry sauce. My dinner (48.50E) started with Collioure anchovies (a local specialty) with red peppers & a green basil/herb sauce. Aside from the fantastic flavors, the presentation was most interesting as far as the arrangements on the plate. Then I had lotte en brochette. A lemongrass spear was used to skewer the chunks of fish. The lotte was wrapped in leeks, all served with a citrus sauce. I had the “all chocolate” dessert: chocolate ice cream, chocolate mousse, with crème anglaise.
Stu Dudley
