"cliff notes" version wojazz3's Ireland trip report
Jan 8th, 2007, 01:34 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"cliff notes" version wojazz3's Ireland trip report
OK, so the webpage version is a bit much for most casual readers. I've done some cutting. If anyone wants to see the photos, Links can be found at the bottom of each day's travels on the "More Pictures" link. Website is:
http://tinyurl.com/yb8ufj
Ireland B&B descriptions can be found at:
http://tinyurl.com/yzpuvb
So, the high points:
Skellig Rocks: This is a must if the weather is good or you have a strong stomach. The climb is somewhat strenous, but not impossible. For those with acrophobia, there are a few spots that will probably get your heart jumping.
Kilkenny: After 7 trips, this is the first time I stayed there. Great little medieval "city". Crazy on a Saturday night.
The Southest: This is much overlooked by the American tourist though clearly there are a few towns that get hit hard, Tramore for instance. Hook Head is a great excursion and Dunmore East was a nice town to spend some time in.
Gougane Barra: Again, somewhat off the main tourist trail and the roads into Kenmare from there are great.
Cutting through the center of the RoK: Ballaghbeama Gap and Lough Caragh are worth the time. You won't see much traffic along here.
Dingle is always great. Slow down and bring a picnic or just get out and walk for a bit. If you think you can do the Dingle Ring in a few hours, you've probably missed most of it.
Lough Corrib boat trip: The trip out to Inchagoill island was great and the history of the island is fascinating. You can do this from Cong or Oughterard.
I'll add the individual days as I cut them down.
Bill
http://tinyurl.com/yb8ufj
Ireland B&B descriptions can be found at:
http://tinyurl.com/yzpuvb
So, the high points:
Skellig Rocks: This is a must if the weather is good or you have a strong stomach. The climb is somewhat strenous, but not impossible. For those with acrophobia, there are a few spots that will probably get your heart jumping.
Kilkenny: After 7 trips, this is the first time I stayed there. Great little medieval "city". Crazy on a Saturday night.
The Southest: This is much overlooked by the American tourist though clearly there are a few towns that get hit hard, Tramore for instance. Hook Head is a great excursion and Dunmore East was a nice town to spend some time in.
Gougane Barra: Again, somewhat off the main tourist trail and the roads into Kenmare from there are great.
Cutting through the center of the RoK: Ballaghbeama Gap and Lough Caragh are worth the time. You won't see much traffic along here.
Dingle is always great. Slow down and bring a picnic or just get out and walk for a bit. If you think you can do the Dingle Ring in a few hours, you've probably missed most of it.
Lough Corrib boat trip: The trip out to Inchagoill island was great and the history of the island is fascinating. You can do this from Cong or Oughterard.
I'll add the individual days as I cut them down.
Bill
Jan 8th, 2007, 02:14 PM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK --- Day one & two:
We arrived in Ireland from Switzerland after a fairly uneventful flight. Leaving the airport was quite another matter. The back up on the M1 south to Dublin was a mess, but after about an hour, we made it on to the M50. It was a fairly easy trip from there. The roads have improved dramatically since my first trip to Ireland in 1996 and once on the M50, the drive was about 1.5 hours of easy driving.
Despite having car rental reservations (Seinfeld episode here) Irish car rentals was out of small cars and Europe car only had one left. It was a Ford Fiesta that was clearly not the newest car in the fleet. It was loaded with scratches and dents, but it was all they had. I got the manager to blindly sign off on all of my observations and we took off in the rattling death can.
We were staying at the Laragh House in Kilkenny. We arrived later than we normally do because of traffic, but we called ahead to let Helen know. We got some suggestions for dinner and started to wander around a bit. We ended up at Langton’s which turned out to be a great choice. This is a large restaurant with a pub up front. I had something called Bailey’s and Brown Bread gateau for dessert. Not sure entirely what it was, but it was fantastic.
Kilkenny does a raging stag and hen party business on Saturday night and the town was hopping. Men were staggering around gawking at women squeezed into slightly less nylon taffeta than would be suggested to hold them and they were proud of it. It was amusing to watch for a while, but we’re old folks so we headed back for some rest.
Sunday May 21
We woke up to the not so gentle pitter patter of raindrops on the windows. We had a fine traditional Irish breakfast and I felt the walls of my arteries begin to thicken. The plan for the day was to do the Kilkenny tour, assembled by a fellow Ireland traveler. You can find the tour here: http://www.knockahopple.com/downloadkilkenny.html . Since it was a walking tour and the skies were opening trying to drown us, a walking tour was not in the cards. None-the-less, the route is great and I highly recommend it.
We made a visit to Kilkenny Castle a signed up for a tour. You can only visit the castle via a tour and it’s certainly worth trip. The castle is in beautiful condition and is fully furnished. It’s wise to get there early as on busy days, the tours can fill up as the day wears on. We had over an hour wait.
When we left the castle, it was still raining, perhaps not quite as hard. We walked up High Street and cut into small medieval slips to dry off. These narrow passages originally served as an avenue down to a boat slip on the River Nore. In the case of the Butter Slip, it also served as a market for women to sell butter. The tiny walkways remind us that the past can be preserved, even in a modern city.
I stopped by the Rothe House which was closed. The significance to me is that I have a friend whose last name is Rothe and I promised him a photo. I managed it despite the rain. We continued down to St Canice’s Cathedral. It was Sunday and parishioners were just leaving and even better, a group of tourists with the brightest orange hats you’ve ever seen showed up. They didn’t stay long and by the time they left, it had become quiet. The other advantage was that the rain stopped.
The round tower at St Canice’s can be climbed, but only when weather permits. The steps get quite slick in the rain, so not surprisingly, it was closed. We wandered back towards High St and Kieran St and decided to stop for a pint at Kyteler’s Inn named for Dame Kyteler. It’s now a nice pub and the basement still sports a vaulted stone ceiling. Dinner is served in the basement room on Friday and Saturday night. Interestingly, no dinners are served on Sunday or Monday nights. This was true on Sundays and some Mondays in a quite a few Kilkenny pubs so be forewarned, pub food is hard to find on those evenings.
Finding dinner meant going to an actual restaurant instead of a pub and after some walking around, we settled on the “Italian Connection”. The food was excellent as was the wine and dining was relaxed and casual. We noticed as we were looking that other groups were just as confused by the lack of food in pubs on Sunday night.
John Cleere’s wasn’t really bustling when we arrived. A game was on the tube and there were some people around the bar. Crowds were certainly not gathering for the session so we were able to find a seat next to where the bad would set up. The band was small that night, a fiddle, a guitar and a uilleann pipe player. Since sessions generally involve as much talk as music, eventually I found my way into the conversation. They invited me to join so I grabbed the drum from the car and joined in. Life is good.
More to come....
We arrived in Ireland from Switzerland after a fairly uneventful flight. Leaving the airport was quite another matter. The back up on the M1 south to Dublin was a mess, but after about an hour, we made it on to the M50. It was a fairly easy trip from there. The roads have improved dramatically since my first trip to Ireland in 1996 and once on the M50, the drive was about 1.5 hours of easy driving.
Despite having car rental reservations (Seinfeld episode here) Irish car rentals was out of small cars and Europe car only had one left. It was a Ford Fiesta that was clearly not the newest car in the fleet. It was loaded with scratches and dents, but it was all they had. I got the manager to blindly sign off on all of my observations and we took off in the rattling death can.
We were staying at the Laragh House in Kilkenny. We arrived later than we normally do because of traffic, but we called ahead to let Helen know. We got some suggestions for dinner and started to wander around a bit. We ended up at Langton’s which turned out to be a great choice. This is a large restaurant with a pub up front. I had something called Bailey’s and Brown Bread gateau for dessert. Not sure entirely what it was, but it was fantastic.
Kilkenny does a raging stag and hen party business on Saturday night and the town was hopping. Men were staggering around gawking at women squeezed into slightly less nylon taffeta than would be suggested to hold them and they were proud of it. It was amusing to watch for a while, but we’re old folks so we headed back for some rest.
Sunday May 21
We woke up to the not so gentle pitter patter of raindrops on the windows. We had a fine traditional Irish breakfast and I felt the walls of my arteries begin to thicken. The plan for the day was to do the Kilkenny tour, assembled by a fellow Ireland traveler. You can find the tour here: http://www.knockahopple.com/downloadkilkenny.html . Since it was a walking tour and the skies were opening trying to drown us, a walking tour was not in the cards. None-the-less, the route is great and I highly recommend it.
We made a visit to Kilkenny Castle a signed up for a tour. You can only visit the castle via a tour and it’s certainly worth trip. The castle is in beautiful condition and is fully furnished. It’s wise to get there early as on busy days, the tours can fill up as the day wears on. We had over an hour wait.
When we left the castle, it was still raining, perhaps not quite as hard. We walked up High Street and cut into small medieval slips to dry off. These narrow passages originally served as an avenue down to a boat slip on the River Nore. In the case of the Butter Slip, it also served as a market for women to sell butter. The tiny walkways remind us that the past can be preserved, even in a modern city.
I stopped by the Rothe House which was closed. The significance to me is that I have a friend whose last name is Rothe and I promised him a photo. I managed it despite the rain. We continued down to St Canice’s Cathedral. It was Sunday and parishioners were just leaving and even better, a group of tourists with the brightest orange hats you’ve ever seen showed up. They didn’t stay long and by the time they left, it had become quiet. The other advantage was that the rain stopped.
The round tower at St Canice’s can be climbed, but only when weather permits. The steps get quite slick in the rain, so not surprisingly, it was closed. We wandered back towards High St and Kieran St and decided to stop for a pint at Kyteler’s Inn named for Dame Kyteler. It’s now a nice pub and the basement still sports a vaulted stone ceiling. Dinner is served in the basement room on Friday and Saturday night. Interestingly, no dinners are served on Sunday or Monday nights. This was true on Sundays and some Mondays in a quite a few Kilkenny pubs so be forewarned, pub food is hard to find on those evenings.
Finding dinner meant going to an actual restaurant instead of a pub and after some walking around, we settled on the “Italian Connection”. The food was excellent as was the wine and dining was relaxed and casual. We noticed as we were looking that other groups were just as confused by the lack of food in pubs on Sunday night.
John Cleere’s wasn’t really bustling when we arrived. A game was on the tube and there were some people around the bar. Crowds were certainly not gathering for the session so we were able to find a seat next to where the bad would set up. The band was small that night, a fiddle, a guitar and a uilleann pipe player. Since sessions generally involve as much talk as music, eventually I found my way into the conversation. They invited me to join so I grabbed the drum from the car and joined in. Life is good.
More to come....
Jan 9th, 2007, 05:14 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ON a Saturday night, Langton's was one of the few places serving food after 8:00. OK, this is kind of a long one:
Monday May 22
The morning news is proclaiming this the wettest May in Irish history. This day isn’t giving us rain but wind and cold is available in abundance. We came down to breakfast and were met by Helen’s parents. Helen’s parents were sitting in for her and dad gave us all sorts of advice on destinations in the Southeast and we figured out as much as we could from him.
We headed south towards the pretty village of Kells rattling our way along in the fabulous Ford Death Can. It was a windy grey day and occasionally we got some drops of rain. The Kells Priory Mill sits on the King River just before you enter town. It’s in a picturesque setting on the river and is a rarely visited museum focusing on mill work. The mill no longer runs, but it makes a cute photo op. We followed the road to the trail to the Kells priory, but the wind and rain were picking up, so we decided not to make the trek. We stopped at to see the High Cross and church at Kilree and notice that the Death Can seemed to have a low tire and we were certain to be trapped in the Irish Country side with three tires. We finally made it into Thomastown and filled up the tire. The upside was that Felicity now had more to worry about than just me crashing into stone walls, oncoming traffic, pedestrians, sheep, cattle and the ocean. Added to that refrain was “Have you checked the tire?”
Just outside of Thomastown is Jerpoint Abbey, one of the early Cistercian Abbeys in Ireland. We arrived just in time for a tour we decided to join it. The tour is fascinating and it was there we started to understand the catholic notion that the greater the misery you suffer, the closer you are to God. We were informed that the monks were allowed one hour of heat a day which seemed cruel and unusual on a day like this, with the wind howling through every corner we could hide in.
The R700 leads south through Inistioge made famous by the movie “Circle of Friends”. It sort of a cute town, but the Circle of Friends Restaurant ruined it for me a bit. There is a beautiful park on as you leave town and a lovely arched bridge crossing the River Nore.
Continuing south of Inistioge is a gorgeous drive, one of the more scenic inland drives in Ireland. We had decided to avoid Waterford at all costs so we found our way south through New Ross and eventually found the Ferry at Ballyhack. There are very few signs leading to the ferry and it was dumb luck that I found it.
Our goal was Dunmore East and I had found rooms for us at the Beach House . I do my best to find places with a view of the water and I was successful again. The Beach House sits in lower Dunmore East directly across the street from the Beach. The Strand Seafood Restaurant is across the street. Across the water, Hook Head lighthouse marks the entrance to the bay, always busy with fishing boats.
We parked in “Upper” Dunmore East and walked around a bit. The Ocean Hotel was closed out of respect for Mary Gallagher who had just passed away. Felicity walked into the Spar next door to ask for a recommendation and told them that the Ocean was closed because Mrs. Gallagher had died. The woman behind the counter was beside herself. “Oh my goodness! Mrs. Gallagher is dead? Why I work right next door and I didn’t know!” Well, I have no way of knowing if Mary Gallagher and Mrs. Gallagher are one in the same, but Felicity had managed to imply that and the shock from the store employees was overwhelming. I quietly suggested to Felicity that she may have started an incident that would bring undue attention on the Gallagher family.
We eventually ended up at the Haven Hotel which is a lovely place overlooking the ocean. Word of Mrs. Gallagher’s demise had not yet reached the hotel, so we were treated warmly. We sat next to a German couple that was having a terrible time understanding the menu. Since most of the German we know came from re-runs of Hogan’s Heroes, we weren’t much help. Felicity bought them a bottle of wine and invited the waitress and her entire family to visit us in the States. She certainly is magnanimous.
After dinner we decide to drive out of town a bit and enjoy the sunset. We followed the scenic coast road which eventually leads to Tramore. After sticking to paved roads, the Death Can seemed to be getting to comfortable so we decided to head off on this little road that was to lead us to a beach or something. The road continued to narrow, the rocks got bigger and we bounced around like live bobble heads in the front of the Ford Fiasco. New noises were growing under the hood of the beast and I suggested giving the poor animal a break. We headed back to Dunmore East.
Pics at: http://www.obeirnetravels.com/2006.05.22pics.htm
Monday May 22
The morning news is proclaiming this the wettest May in Irish history. This day isn’t giving us rain but wind and cold is available in abundance. We came down to breakfast and were met by Helen’s parents. Helen’s parents were sitting in for her and dad gave us all sorts of advice on destinations in the Southeast and we figured out as much as we could from him.
We headed south towards the pretty village of Kells rattling our way along in the fabulous Ford Death Can. It was a windy grey day and occasionally we got some drops of rain. The Kells Priory Mill sits on the King River just before you enter town. It’s in a picturesque setting on the river and is a rarely visited museum focusing on mill work. The mill no longer runs, but it makes a cute photo op. We followed the road to the trail to the Kells priory, but the wind and rain were picking up, so we decided not to make the trek. We stopped at to see the High Cross and church at Kilree and notice that the Death Can seemed to have a low tire and we were certain to be trapped in the Irish Country side with three tires. We finally made it into Thomastown and filled up the tire. The upside was that Felicity now had more to worry about than just me crashing into stone walls, oncoming traffic, pedestrians, sheep, cattle and the ocean. Added to that refrain was “Have you checked the tire?”
Just outside of Thomastown is Jerpoint Abbey, one of the early Cistercian Abbeys in Ireland. We arrived just in time for a tour we decided to join it. The tour is fascinating and it was there we started to understand the catholic notion that the greater the misery you suffer, the closer you are to God. We were informed that the monks were allowed one hour of heat a day which seemed cruel and unusual on a day like this, with the wind howling through every corner we could hide in.
The R700 leads south through Inistioge made famous by the movie “Circle of Friends”. It sort of a cute town, but the Circle of Friends Restaurant ruined it for me a bit. There is a beautiful park on as you leave town and a lovely arched bridge crossing the River Nore.
Continuing south of Inistioge is a gorgeous drive, one of the more scenic inland drives in Ireland. We had decided to avoid Waterford at all costs so we found our way south through New Ross and eventually found the Ferry at Ballyhack. There are very few signs leading to the ferry and it was dumb luck that I found it.
Our goal was Dunmore East and I had found rooms for us at the Beach House . I do my best to find places with a view of the water and I was successful again. The Beach House sits in lower Dunmore East directly across the street from the Beach. The Strand Seafood Restaurant is across the street. Across the water, Hook Head lighthouse marks the entrance to the bay, always busy with fishing boats.
We parked in “Upper” Dunmore East and walked around a bit. The Ocean Hotel was closed out of respect for Mary Gallagher who had just passed away. Felicity walked into the Spar next door to ask for a recommendation and told them that the Ocean was closed because Mrs. Gallagher had died. The woman behind the counter was beside herself. “Oh my goodness! Mrs. Gallagher is dead? Why I work right next door and I didn’t know!” Well, I have no way of knowing if Mary Gallagher and Mrs. Gallagher are one in the same, but Felicity had managed to imply that and the shock from the store employees was overwhelming. I quietly suggested to Felicity that she may have started an incident that would bring undue attention on the Gallagher family.
We eventually ended up at the Haven Hotel which is a lovely place overlooking the ocean. Word of Mrs. Gallagher’s demise had not yet reached the hotel, so we were treated warmly. We sat next to a German couple that was having a terrible time understanding the menu. Since most of the German we know came from re-runs of Hogan’s Heroes, we weren’t much help. Felicity bought them a bottle of wine and invited the waitress and her entire family to visit us in the States. She certainly is magnanimous.
After dinner we decide to drive out of town a bit and enjoy the sunset. We followed the scenic coast road which eventually leads to Tramore. After sticking to paved roads, the Death Can seemed to be getting to comfortable so we decided to head off on this little road that was to lead us to a beach or something. The road continued to narrow, the rocks got bigger and we bounced around like live bobble heads in the front of the Ford Fiasco. New noises were growing under the hood of the beast and I suggested giving the poor animal a break. We headed back to Dunmore East.
Pics at: http://www.obeirnetravels.com/2006.05.22pics.htm
Jan 9th, 2007, 02:31 PM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
next .....
Tuesday May 23
We finally awoke to a morning of sunshine. Felicity went down to breakfast a few minutes before me and ended up having a conversation with Breda. Apparently, Breda had been involved in a screaming match with a patron of the restaurant across the street at about 2:00 am. I guess the rooms are pretty sound proof.
We caught the ferry at Passage East (€11.00 return, €8.00 one way) and stopped to wander a bit in Ballyhack. The village has an impressive looking tower house that has limited opening times in the summer months. It also boasts a cute harbor and the weather was warm and comfortable for a change so we lingered for a bit and watched the boats head out.
The main goal for the day was the Hook Head Lighthouse, one of the oldest in continuous operation in Europe. Built in the 13th century, its walls are 12 feet think and the 115 stairs to the top are built into the walls. The tower was operated by monks for many centuries and the interior construction still shows signs of their occupancy. The wind was getting stronger as we arrived and by the time our tour started, the winds were substantial. The lighthouse is only accessed by tour and it’s a well done tour, certainly worth the wait. A famous legend states that the phrase, “by hook or by crook” originates from here when Cromwell swore to take Waterford by one of the two headlands, Crooke, being on the opposite side of the bay. This is probably not true as the phrase appears elsewhere earlier and may refer to how peasants were allowed to take deadwood from the royal forest.
There are quite a few interesting view points of the lighthouse and one I liked was as we drove away. I pulled into the small car park and Felicity simply waved at me as I walked out into the howling winds. This was a good Irish coastal wind, the kind you can lean against to hold yourself up. There seemed to be a storm brewing which just added to the ambience. I wandered along a trail as Felicity’s cries to be careful grew fainter against the roar of the wind. Eventually I found a small path down through the rocks with a boat hoist in a state of serious disrepair. It was a well protected tiny cove and allowed me the opportunity to watch the waves crashing on the rocks with the lighthouse as a backdrop.
We left Hook Head bound to see more of the Peninsula. Breda’s husband had suggested Slade which was not as interesting as suggested. There is an old ruin of a castle there, one of the many piles of rocks scattered around the island. Parts of the remaining castle walls are now being used to house old tires, gas cans and boat parts.
We stopped in Fethard by the Sea expecting a bit more excitement but none was to be had. At that point, we just started wandering. We stopped at a combination snack shop/artist’s studio and grabbed something warm to drink and a pastry.
We went looking for Tintern Abbey, another Cistercian abbey, this one named after one in Wales. Some local hooligans had apparently decided to play with some of the signs and we ended up on a dirt road that clearly wouldn’t take us to Tintern. We eventually found it and found it closed. The Abbey is open mid June through September and there were some repairs being done on it while we were there. Some cattle took particular interest in us as we left, so we stopped and had a chat with them.
The evening plan was to dine in Tramore so we headed that way. The rain caught us when we arrived and we also found that Tramore pretty much shuts down outside the tourist season. This is a town built for family tourism and despite its lovely setting, it seems a bit too carnival like for my enjoyment. After Felicity walked into a casino looking for food, we settled on the hotel bar where I consumed my first fish and chips. Nothing spectacular, but it still tasted good. We followed the back roads back to Dunmore East as the sun set behind us.
Tuesday May 23
We finally awoke to a morning of sunshine. Felicity went down to breakfast a few minutes before me and ended up having a conversation with Breda. Apparently, Breda had been involved in a screaming match with a patron of the restaurant across the street at about 2:00 am. I guess the rooms are pretty sound proof.
We caught the ferry at Passage East (€11.00 return, €8.00 one way) and stopped to wander a bit in Ballyhack. The village has an impressive looking tower house that has limited opening times in the summer months. It also boasts a cute harbor and the weather was warm and comfortable for a change so we lingered for a bit and watched the boats head out.
The main goal for the day was the Hook Head Lighthouse, one of the oldest in continuous operation in Europe. Built in the 13th century, its walls are 12 feet think and the 115 stairs to the top are built into the walls. The tower was operated by monks for many centuries and the interior construction still shows signs of their occupancy. The wind was getting stronger as we arrived and by the time our tour started, the winds were substantial. The lighthouse is only accessed by tour and it’s a well done tour, certainly worth the wait. A famous legend states that the phrase, “by hook or by crook” originates from here when Cromwell swore to take Waterford by one of the two headlands, Crooke, being on the opposite side of the bay. This is probably not true as the phrase appears elsewhere earlier and may refer to how peasants were allowed to take deadwood from the royal forest.
There are quite a few interesting view points of the lighthouse and one I liked was as we drove away. I pulled into the small car park and Felicity simply waved at me as I walked out into the howling winds. This was a good Irish coastal wind, the kind you can lean against to hold yourself up. There seemed to be a storm brewing which just added to the ambience. I wandered along a trail as Felicity’s cries to be careful grew fainter against the roar of the wind. Eventually I found a small path down through the rocks with a boat hoist in a state of serious disrepair. It was a well protected tiny cove and allowed me the opportunity to watch the waves crashing on the rocks with the lighthouse as a backdrop.
We left Hook Head bound to see more of the Peninsula. Breda’s husband had suggested Slade which was not as interesting as suggested. There is an old ruin of a castle there, one of the many piles of rocks scattered around the island. Parts of the remaining castle walls are now being used to house old tires, gas cans and boat parts.
We stopped in Fethard by the Sea expecting a bit more excitement but none was to be had. At that point, we just started wandering. We stopped at a combination snack shop/artist’s studio and grabbed something warm to drink and a pastry.
We went looking for Tintern Abbey, another Cistercian abbey, this one named after one in Wales. Some local hooligans had apparently decided to play with some of the signs and we ended up on a dirt road that clearly wouldn’t take us to Tintern. We eventually found it and found it closed. The Abbey is open mid June through September and there were some repairs being done on it while we were there. Some cattle took particular interest in us as we left, so we stopped and had a chat with them.
The evening plan was to dine in Tramore so we headed that way. The rain caught us when we arrived and we also found that Tramore pretty much shuts down outside the tourist season. This is a town built for family tourism and despite its lovely setting, it seems a bit too carnival like for my enjoyment. After Felicity walked into a casino looking for food, we settled on the hotel bar where I consumed my first fish and chips. Nothing spectacular, but it still tasted good. We followed the back roads back to Dunmore East as the sun set behind us.
Jan 9th, 2007, 03:45 PM
#9
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
wojazz3, I have your long trip report bookmarked and have been slowly enjoying it. I've read and looked at everything. Loved it and thanks so much. I'll go back to it time to time. I've wanted to see Dunmore East and Ardmore now I feel I have.
Again thanks, Joan
Again thanks, Joan
Jan 10th, 2007, 08:29 AM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi guys, thanks for the comments. I got pretty lucky with that Felicity person. Dunmore east really is a nice quiet place to stay. The Beach House was comfortable, but the owner was a bit odd. None-the-less, if I stay in Dunmore East, I would probably stay there again.
Jan 10th, 2007, 11:24 AM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wednesday, May 24
The wettest May in Irish history was not over. We woke up to a gray, drizzly day with an occasional view of the sun. John, Breda’s husband made more attempts to help us with our trip planning and he had some nice ideas, just too much.
We made our way through Tramore and then followed the coast road west. Just outside of town we stopped in a car park to enjoy the view. We had seen a rescue helicopter over the water while in Tramore and they were still out. We watched a team lower into the water and then take off in a powered raft. It was interesting to see them in action or at least in training. The same car park also sported a very old looking sign for a men’s swimming cove. We chuckled at the sign and walked on by knowing that such bastions of male segregation could not still exist. Additionally, who in their right mind would be out swimming in cold windy rainy weather like this? Well, it would be those older Irish gentlemen who just managed to pull up their wetsuits as Felicity came around the corner. The sign may have been old, but the activity still seemed to be there, whether or not it was sanctioned by posted notices.
The scenic coast road tends to leave the coast for substantial periods of time, but when it returns, it’s beautiful. At Dungarvan, the N25 is the main road and it moves rather quickly. Even though it is a main road and is subject to high speed traveling, we still found a moment when we were stuck behind a farmer on a cattle drive. We took the turn off to Ardmore just as the rain made its persistent return. St. Declan’s oratory and the round tower are just outside of town and hard to miss. It was wet and cold when we got out and wandered around the old churchyard. The round tower is in impressive shape commands an outstanding view over the bay and beach below. It’s believed to have been built sometime during the 10-12 centuries. In fine weather, one might be tempted to gaze at the stunning views from here for hours, but on a rainy day in May, we were left to soak in the atmosphere and the history and gaze through the mist at the water below. So many days just like this have passed since this was built and people lived here, farmed here and fought courageous battles under conditions so much worse than we were experiencing. All we had to do was hop back in the car and head down to Ardmore for a hot cooked meal .... which we did.
The ride back to Dunmore East was soggy and also traffic filled as roads works were underway and we found ourselves stopped dead a mile from our turnoff to the peninsula. Tonight we would dine at the Alfred D. Snow bar, an atmospheric pub that is attached to the Ocean Hotel. Indeed, this is the establishment owned by the Gallagher family, yes the Mrs. Gallagher that Felicity had boldly pronounced dead two days early. I found a table for us and we promptly ordered, but the staff seemed grumpy. I noticed an older woman directing traffic and had to assume that this may very well be Mrs. Gallagher. Accounts of her demise had been greatly exaggerated. By the way, the food was good and this is an excellent place to dine in Dunmore East.
Back in our room, Felicity decided to curl up and fall asleep, but I couldn’t resist the urge to enjoy the effects of darkness descending like a thick black curtain on the bay with only the lights from the boats and the distant flash of the Hook Head lighthouse.
The wettest May in Irish history was not over. We woke up to a gray, drizzly day with an occasional view of the sun. John, Breda’s husband made more attempts to help us with our trip planning and he had some nice ideas, just too much.
We made our way through Tramore and then followed the coast road west. Just outside of town we stopped in a car park to enjoy the view. We had seen a rescue helicopter over the water while in Tramore and they were still out. We watched a team lower into the water and then take off in a powered raft. It was interesting to see them in action or at least in training. The same car park also sported a very old looking sign for a men’s swimming cove. We chuckled at the sign and walked on by knowing that such bastions of male segregation could not still exist. Additionally, who in their right mind would be out swimming in cold windy rainy weather like this? Well, it would be those older Irish gentlemen who just managed to pull up their wetsuits as Felicity came around the corner. The sign may have been old, but the activity still seemed to be there, whether or not it was sanctioned by posted notices.
The scenic coast road tends to leave the coast for substantial periods of time, but when it returns, it’s beautiful. At Dungarvan, the N25 is the main road and it moves rather quickly. Even though it is a main road and is subject to high speed traveling, we still found a moment when we were stuck behind a farmer on a cattle drive. We took the turn off to Ardmore just as the rain made its persistent return. St. Declan’s oratory and the round tower are just outside of town and hard to miss. It was wet and cold when we got out and wandered around the old churchyard. The round tower is in impressive shape commands an outstanding view over the bay and beach below. It’s believed to have been built sometime during the 10-12 centuries. In fine weather, one might be tempted to gaze at the stunning views from here for hours, but on a rainy day in May, we were left to soak in the atmosphere and the history and gaze through the mist at the water below. So many days just like this have passed since this was built and people lived here, farmed here and fought courageous battles under conditions so much worse than we were experiencing. All we had to do was hop back in the car and head down to Ardmore for a hot cooked meal .... which we did.
The ride back to Dunmore East was soggy and also traffic filled as roads works were underway and we found ourselves stopped dead a mile from our turnoff to the peninsula. Tonight we would dine at the Alfred D. Snow bar, an atmospheric pub that is attached to the Ocean Hotel. Indeed, this is the establishment owned by the Gallagher family, yes the Mrs. Gallagher that Felicity had boldly pronounced dead two days early. I found a table for us and we promptly ordered, but the staff seemed grumpy. I noticed an older woman directing traffic and had to assume that this may very well be Mrs. Gallagher. Accounts of her demise had been greatly exaggerated. By the way, the food was good and this is an excellent place to dine in Dunmore East.
Back in our room, Felicity decided to curl up and fall asleep, but I couldn’t resist the urge to enjoy the effects of darkness descending like a thick black curtain on the bay with only the lights from the boats and the distant flash of the Hook Head lighthouse.
Jan 30th, 2007, 03:16 PM
#14
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for another lovely trip report! Thoroughly enjoyed the webpage and pictures.
Started plotting out the itinerary for our 2nd trip last month and after reading your report-found we are doing a few similar things.
Question- How long was the drive from The Shores to Oughterard? Did you take the Killimer/Tarbert ferry? <i>(actually funny...DH kept insisting he didn't want to drive it all in one day, but it is now a possibility since "Wojazz did it"- Oy!)</i>
About Beara- We will be heading there from Killarney and have either 2 or 3 nights there. Besides Kenmare, would appreciate any thoughts you may have on other towns to stay...Glengariff? Eyeries? Castletownbere? Adrigolle? (small town, not remote)
Our plan is to thoroughly explore Beara one day and either explore Sheeps Head the next or do a little hiking.
Thanks again for the wonderful report!
Dawn
Started plotting out the itinerary for our 2nd trip last month and after reading your report-found we are doing a few similar things.
Question- How long was the drive from The Shores to Oughterard? Did you take the Killimer/Tarbert ferry? <i>(actually funny...DH kept insisting he didn't want to drive it all in one day, but it is now a possibility since "Wojazz did it"- Oy!)</i>
About Beara- We will be heading there from Killarney and have either 2 or 3 nights there. Besides Kenmare, would appreciate any thoughts you may have on other towns to stay...Glengariff? Eyeries? Castletownbere? Adrigolle? (small town, not remote)
Our plan is to thoroughly explore Beara one day and either explore Sheeps Head the next or do a little hiking.
Thanks again for the wonderful report!
Dawn
Jan 31st, 2007, 03:54 PM
#15
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Dawn:
Town on Beara that are small but not remote would be Castletownbere or Glengariff. Allihies and Eyeries are both very small and very remote. They would be fun I'm sure, but they are quite remote. I think I would pick Glengariff of the two, but I don't know that I have a great reason for that. It would certainly be better for Sheepshead and Bantry is just up the road.
Bill
As far The Shores to Oughterard, it is doable by all means. We moved very slowly to the ferry, a bit more quickly but still completely back roads to Ennis and then very quickly to Oughterard from there. The recent news is that the Ennis bypass just opened (last week I think) which will cut a lot of time out of the trip. We arrived late afternoon, but we took the first part at a snails pace. I think we caught the 1:00 ferry, maybe the 1:30.
Town on Beara that are small but not remote would be Castletownbere or Glengariff. Allihies and Eyeries are both very small and very remote. They would be fun I'm sure, but they are quite remote. I think I would pick Glengariff of the two, but I don't know that I have a great reason for that. It would certainly be better for Sheepshead and Bantry is just up the road.
Bill
As far The Shores to Oughterard, it is doable by all means. We moved very slowly to the ferry, a bit more quickly but still completely back roads to Ennis and then very quickly to Oughterard from there. The recent news is that the Ennis bypass just opened (last week I think) which will cut a lot of time out of the trip. We arrived late afternoon, but we took the first part at a snails pace. I think we caught the 1:00 ferry, maybe the 1:30.
Feb 5th, 2007, 02:10 AM
#16
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you Bill,
we're gonna go for it- Castlegregory to Oughterard.
I am still deciding between Castletownbere, Glengariff and Eyeries and plan to do more research. Eyeries just looks so interesting, Castletownbere because it seems to be a perfect choice, bigger than Eyeries, smaller than Glengariff. Glengariff- you suggested the ease to Bantry and Mizen Head- I know DH would much prefer that!
Thanks for the advice, I am sure I will be begging another comment from you soon!!!
Dawn
we're gonna go for it- Castlegregory to Oughterard.
I am still deciding between Castletownbere, Glengariff and Eyeries and plan to do more research. Eyeries just looks so interesting, Castletownbere because it seems to be a perfect choice, bigger than Eyeries, smaller than Glengariff. Glengariff- you suggested the ease to Bantry and Mizen Head- I know DH would much prefer that!
Thanks for the advice, I am sure I will be begging another comment from you soon!!!
Dawn
Thread
Original Poster
Forum
Replies
Last Post
waterlily252
Europe
23
Nov 4th, 2008 08:52 AM
wilees
Europe
33
May 28th, 2007 09:50 PM
