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Cinque Terre, Lake Como trip report

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Cinque Terre, Lake Como trip report

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Old Jul 6th, 2007 | 12:33 PM
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Cinque Terre, Lake Como trip report

Hi All:

Just back from our 10-day trip to Italy. We appreciate all the great suggestions and help we got from fellow Fodorites. Hopefully what I report will help others.

This is our third trip to Italy but our first to these towns and cities.

Arrival:
We flew into PISA. It was quite hot and overcast. We were pleased that we had simplified packing. One wheeling duffle each. And a purse for each. I called my husband's his "manpurse." From here on out our English became clipped and my husband took a bad Italian accent. We started to like each other again.

We found the train station in the same building and went directly to the ticket counter and pointed to the trenitalia schedule we brought with us which helped. We didn't know that there are 2 train stations in PISA so therefore got a little confused about why we were given 2 tickets both saying 2 adults. I thought one was a receipt! JETLAG!

Turns out we had to take the airport train to the PISA Centrale train station and then go to La Spezia from there. La Spezia also has two stops but we were told that while on the train. You must get off at the second La Spezia station and then get on the local CT train and count the stops to your destination. I think they call this destination not CT but Monterosso, the last town, but it stops in each.

I think it's especially hard with the train transition because you are so damn tired from that overseas flight! We had driven 4 hours to drop our son at camp, taken a plane to JFK (YUCK!)and then direct to PISA. And I don't sleep on planes.

The Cinque Terre. I was very curious which group we would fall into: those who loved it or those who couldn't wait to leave. My husband and I (in our forties and casual hikers) really enjoyed the five towns and loved our sweet scenic home base of Manarola. (Although, we would have been equally happy in Corniglia or Vernazza!)

We stayed at Arpaiu which is a guesthouse offering stunning, directly-over-the-sea views. We had a small room with a platform bed, nicely refinished bathroom with fun tile and smart Italian fixtures. Good value at just under 100 Euro.

We were running late from "train confusion," but the host was waiting for us and very friendly. She did not speak any English but we got just enough information to figure out the basics. That was the last we saw of her.

This place provides no breakfast and caters to those wanting simple, comfortable accommodations who can take care of themselves. We would certainly return!! We knew ahead of time to bring cash so we brought it from home to avoid the frantic ATM visits.

I was apprehensive of some of the descriptions of the walks/hikes, expecially those mentioning fear of heights. We hike every once in while so were ready to go with light hiking shoes. The walk to the town south of Manarola is Riomaggiore and is a beautifully paved walk with stunning views.

There is a great little bar you reach on the way and offers you a chance to sit and take in the gorgeous scenery. And hey, have a drink!

The hike from Manarola to Corniglia is more of a hike because it's not paved, but is very easy and enjoyable and offers sweeping views. Sure there are tons of stairs at the end but they didn't present any problems if you exercise at all.

If you have knee problems simply take the tram they offer at the train station to the town to avoid the steps.

The hike from Corniglia to Vernazza is more dramatic and while I feared some of the descriptions on this board, I found no issues of heights. You could see way down to the coastline but the path was clear, the footing reasonable if you've hiked before, and no issues of immediate drop offs. I never felt unsafe.

You must be in reasonable shape. The last third offers a lot of handmade steps that are irregular and get your heart rate up. If you are in any kind of shape you will be fine. And it was the most rewarding of all the walks.

A British man ahead of me tore up the path with no problem and he was mid-fifties or sixty. He had heavy hiking boots that offered good ankle support. And a fresh smile.

By the time we got to town my legs were tired! Yes, I did stop at the little bar on the trail and have a chocolate tart! I could not resist. It was before lunch but I did not care. Italia means Dolci!

My husband went for the beer. Learned that in college.

It was the first and last walk of the day taking about 1.5 hours. We arrived, more stairs first, and it was the perfect time to sit down to a great lunch at Da Piva and enjoy raviolo and a liter of white wine. The hiking was done. We never did the last walk.

We stayed in the CT for 4 nights and, for us, that was a pleasant and leisurely pace that gave us time to explore each town. We had planned to boat to SML and Portofino but the ocean was stormy and the boats never ran!

It turned out we were there during some rough seas that lasted our entire time. We did get gorgeous, dramatic seas!

Our first afternoon in Manarola was calm and the swimming looked fantastic but we had planned to jump in the following day and by then the weather had turned.

Riomaggiore is pretty but is a little tattered. Our favorite place there was the Bar & Vini A pie De Ma. Great views at night!

Manarola has a fantastic vineyard walk that starts by the church and we really enjoyed that for a close up view of what the locals are growing.

Vernazza has the "snazza" and is fun and stunning. We enjoyed our dinner up at the castle. A local man helped us find the ATM after we found out a bar would not accept our credit cards.

Corniglia is sweet and so small!

The CT does have a lot of American visitors (like ourselves). We saw group of teens. And the train stations can get crowded, but we were always able to find a quiet place to stroll and never felt overrun with tourists.

We would walk to the top of Manarola at night and gaze at the sea in silence. Not a soul around.

On the last full day we bought our ticket for Milan in the Monterosso train station and planned our final morning.

In the a.m., we took the local train to Monterosso and arrived in time to snag the correct train we had ticketed. All went smoothly to Milan. After a 3-hour train ride we got off in Milan and then had to buy our ticket to Varenna which is across the lake from Bellagio!

We had twenty minutes and were confronted with steep stairs to the ticket booth and long lines. He parked me and the luggage at the top of the stirs and raced down with his manpurse.

He got the ticket barely in time so we could race to the train, which I had spotted, and jump on. But he didn't get it stamped! OMG! I was told that was the worst thing you could do but as it turned out not a problem.

He showed the conductor our previous ticket from the CT and the guy nooded and scribbled on the ticket. Next time I would either buy it beforehand since 20 minutes is not enough time in that busy station or buy it in one of the automated machines.

Next posting, I'll tell you about Bellagio.
Let me know if you have any questions about the CT. Thanks. Annealex
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Old Jul 6th, 2007 | 01:06 PM
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Great trip report!! I'm going to Cinque Terre and Bellagio in a couple of months. I can't wait to hear about Bellagio.
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Old Jul 6th, 2007 | 02:51 PM
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"Vernazza has the "snazza" - cute!

Looking forward to your next installment.
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Old Jul 6th, 2007 | 03:47 PM
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This is a possible trip for next summer, annealex. Great report!
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Old Jul 6th, 2007 | 03:53 PM
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Thanks for the info about the hikes. So many posts make it seem daunting.
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Old Jul 6th, 2007 | 05:00 PM
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Very interesting and positive report!
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Old Jul 6th, 2007 | 06:33 PM
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Hi!
Glad you had a great trip!

I'm really looking forward to hearing about Bellagio. We may go there next summer.

Thanks for sharing!!
dina
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Old Jul 6th, 2007 | 06:48 PM
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Hi, nice trip report. Very interesting, because I'm thinking of visiting the Cinque Terre next March. I have a friend from there, and this will be my first trip to Europe. I'm thinking maybe fly to Milano or Pisa and then visit a Tuscan town or Florence and then head to the CT to see my friend and explore a bit. Can't wait to read more. Greg
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 02:02 AM
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I'm still jetlagged which I hope explains all the typos, but actually my typing is quite awful.

We got to the Varenna train station after the hour train ride from Milan and found our way to the boat which is about a 1/2 mile walk slightly downhill.

The train station was shut tight and not many people were around to help, but we figured it out.

Don't expect any clean bathrooms around here so plan ahead. Italy has these strange bathrooms in some places where there's simply a hole in the floor surrounded by plastic. Great for men but not women...

There's a ticket booth to buy tickets for the Ferry to Bellagio on the waterfront. Luckily the boat was due in ten minutes so we were on time.

We took what is the car and passenger ferry to Bellagio, a quick ten minute ride that dropped us at the waterfront in Bellagio.

We had reservations at the Belvedere, a nice resort-style hotel that a couple of Fodorites had recommended.

It was expensive at 288 Euro a night for a double deluxe room but I wanted a semi-splurge for the fancy location.

I was told by other posters that the hotel was up a hill and a walk. I didn't make any arrangements for transportation so we had to struggle with the unknown about exact location and distance.

My husband asked at a waterfront hotel (there are several) where it was and she told him a walk up the hill. With a rolling suitcase it was not fun. Without wheels, impossible!

I won't mention the bathroom problem again but I just did. Now I know there are decent bathrooms in the hotels along the waterfront.

For him it was not a problem, but for me, very tired and struck with allergies on the train I was quite unhappy. We managed to get up the hill and after another turn, there it was.

The surprise was that the hotel on a hill has the view out the back to the otherside facing Pescalo, hamlet of Bellagio. (check out quiet La Pergola there for a glass of wine and lake view.)

The hotel Belvedere is very service oriented. The lobby, however, is low-key so it doesn't make an immediate impression for the kind of money we were paying.

The greeter who was very friendly whispered (which seemed odd) that we could get a 5% discount if we paid in cash. I imagined trying to extract all that money from an ATM (4 nights times 288 Euro)and my husband carrying it around in his man purse. He didn't even know what the charge was yet...

Anyway, no big deal, we didn't need to decide now. The room was smaller than I expected (again the price!) but the balcony was perfectly situated for a commanding view of Lake Lecco which is the other side of the point that Bellagio sits on.

The room (#314) had inlaid hardwood floors and upon further exploration, a jetted tub. It has A/C which we enjoyed.It had a small foyer and a door between that first space with the bathroom and the bedroom.

My husband was very pleased.I kept saying good because it's not cheap and he said I don't want to know...

We had a wonderful stay at this hotel with the highlights being the balcony, the big tub, and the great swimming pool. The bed was just so-so. Two beds pushed together and not firm.

We are not pool people. But it had pretty sparkling tiles and an enchanting separate infinity edge pool in front that was jetted. Terrific views! I had wished it were warm but both were icy cold and that became addicting!

It's kind of fun walking into an ice cube tray and surviving.

The pool man has now become a character in our life. He was so efficient and sincere with all of his tasks! Again, good service.

There are padded lounge chairs all around the property, around the pool and also down the hill. We found a shady place under a tree and read and still had glimpses of the lake.

Highlights of Bellagio for us: sheer gorgeous charm, James Bond wow factor and exquisite beauty. And hey, very good food. And thoughts of George Clooney.

We loved the villa Melzi gardens past the waterfront and facing lake Como. This was an amazing stroll and worth the 6 or 8 Euro each. Stunning views, exotic plants.

We also dined well and simply at Trattoria Giacomo and the one across from it the next night, restaurant Bilicus which my husband had seen written up in the New York Times.
It is a sweet restaurant with a great patio and terrific food and service.

Skip Far_Out Restaurant, I thought it was very average, although popular!

Bellagio is a shopper's town and I'm not a shopper but I managed to still spend. great stuff.

Great gelato, my husband's best in his life, at Gelateria del Borgo. Some of these restaurants and places are also listed in Rick Steve's Italy 2007 book which we found very helpful except for some minor transportion issues/transfers.


With 4 days you would think we would have gotten out of Bellagio but I lost the first 24 hours to allergies.We enjoyed the hotel and strolling and eating and the best of all: the Cava Auccelico Enoteca! OMG! This wine bar is a tiny jewel off the waterfront up a narrow lane.

The owners and their staff are very service oriented and friendly! Don't miss this tiny place if you love good wines and cheeses. The Barolo and Sfarsat were amazing.

We visited twice. It's the perfect place to hang out.

Also Bellagio Point.com, the internet cafe, was helpful to keep in touch with our son at camp. The highlight is the friendy manager(?) who paints bottles of wine with scenes from around the lake and the bottles are great gifts!

Prices start at 25 Euro for a bottle with wine made from wild grapes. Yummy and beautiful. I stuffed it in my suitcase wrapped well with clothes and it survived the trip. No wine as carry ons!

We also visited the dramatic point of Bellagio, Punto Spartivento, where you can dine (we didn't) and had great views.

Bellagio, if we saw typical weather, is not bright and sunny but soft and dramatic. Exquisite is the word that keeps coming to mind.

It was very busy at the waterfront and all the hotels there are exposed to quite a lot of noise. The bar at the Hotel Florence was friendly and fun.
Didn't get around to trying their pretty waterfront restaurant...

I was surpised that most people were dressed casually throughout the town, even at nice dinner spots.

GO!

The next posting will be of our experience in Milan, our last stop. Let me know if you have questions on Bellagio. Annealex
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 02:29 AM
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I have a question, please, annealex. What kind of things did you find while shopping?
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 05:42 AM
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Shopping: gorgeous ceramics by an Italian artist, fine clothing, Venetian glass, scarves and other silks from lake Como,leather purses, wallets,antiques,so much more!
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 07:19 AM
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Your description of Bellagio is wonderful. It sounds like such a gorgeous and relaxing destination. I am trying to formulate my itinerary for next June and REALLY want to include it.
thank you so much.

would you say that having access to a pool made your stay more enjoyable? i know you say you are not pool people, but it seemed you really enjoyed it. We have teens and so are looking for a pool because i thought it might be a nice place to relax in the afternoon, especially if it's hot.

thanks again,
dina
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 08:07 AM
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Dina: The pool was wonderful and added to our stay. It was very refreshing and we went in every day except the day it rained. Bellagio is a resort-type location in which you relax, enjoy the scenery and indulge a bit. There were some kids in the pool, although the hotel had mostly couples in their 40s-60s it seemed.

I'm not positive but from looking at other hotel info in the area it appeared some of them had access to a pool at a club but it was not on hotel grounds.

Also we could zip right to the pool via the elevator outside our room to the lowest level. I was surprised the hotel charged us 3 Euro for 2 pool towels. For that reason we kept the pool towels in our room (away from the maid) so we wouldn't be charged daily!

Otherwise there were no extra charges at all, exactly what they quoted us which included taxes and services and a buffet breakfast.
Annealex
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 08:17 AM
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Thanks annealex. Very descriptive.
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 08:35 AM
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Thanks. We were thinking of staying at the Hotel Bellagio, which is it more affordable since we have to rent two rooms, and it does have access to the "Bellagio Sporting Club", which seems to have a nice pool. did you happen to see this place? apparently, it's in the town center.
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 08:42 AM
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So instead of using ATMs, you bought euros for the whole trip in the US and carried them around with you the whole time? Not recommended! What's so hard about using ATMs? They're all over the place. Plus my credit union only charges 1% conversion fee. I hate to think what you paid at home.

And, given that the boats weren't running on the CT, you could have taken the train to visit other towns on the Italian Riviera.
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 08:49 AM
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Just found your post and am thoroughly enjoying your writing style - informative, entertaining. I hope your son had a wonderful camp experienve while you & hubby vacationed. Years ago I'd fly my daughter to Chicago to attend a special camp, then the rest of the fam would fly over to meet me in Europe for our summer vacation - just like you're doing. Fond memories!
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 08:55 AM
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I enjoyed my stay at Hotel Bellagio last year. It is up a flight of steps, slightly removed from the masses of people on the waterfront. We had a room with a small balcony and lake view. Yes, we were just above the rooftops of the houses next door, but we enjoyed being close to local life as well and having the balcony, which is not available on all floors. The rooms are very recently renovated, all nicely done and modern.

Strangely enough, I had stayed at this same hotel almost 20 years ago and under different management.
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 09:11 AM
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Thanks for the endorsement of the Hotel Bellagio, Ellen. I will definitely reserve rooms with balconies/views.
Did you end up using the Bellagio Sporting Club's pool?
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Old Jul 7th, 2007 | 10:09 AM
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Mimar:

I only brought Euros for our first hotel (which only accepted cash) since I knew I would be extremely exhausted after all the travel, 26 hours.

After that we used ATMS with no issues. And the occasional credit card: Am Ex had the best rate for us and when that wasn't taken we used Euros or Mastercard.

Also, we could have taken the train to SML but were quite happy where we were. We would have taken the boat had it been running for the extra pleasure of the water views.

Dina:

I did not see the club pool but I can say going to the pool at Belvedere was so easy and convenient. We had no car.

Dorkforcemom: Thanks! The best thing about this trip (almost) was when we picked up our son at camp he was so happy with his experience there and had a great time!! Wants to go back next year!
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