Cinque Terre
Apr 4th, 2012, 02:15 AM
#21
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Hi anneafly (sorry to keep mixing you up with Ruth_Turpin,
If you take a 9:30 train you arrive in le Cinque Terre right at lunch time -- which to me is perfect, because then you can sit down, take in the scene and assess what you want to do. It is also easier to arrive at lunch time and begin with lunch, rather than arrive earlier, set out hiking. and then find yourself scrambling up or down a cliff to make sure you get to someplace selling food before the lunch hour is over.
Were it me, I would either do some research and decide if I want an excellent Ligurian lunch, or I would bring a picnic lunch from Florence from the fresh food markets A first class lunch will run you 40e pp easily, and it is not worth it to go to a mediocre restaurant.
If you arrive in le Cinque Terre between noon and 1pm, you have at least 6 hours of daylight. That is plenty of time to see all 5 towns and even take a 2 hour hike plus a boat ride if you wish. Toward the end of the day, check out the cloudscape and make a decision about whether you want to hang around for sunset. If so, find someplace selling sandwiches and fruit etc, and take a seat somewhere.
Before you leave the US, print out a copy of the return train schedule to take with you that day. There is nothing worse than just missing a train in le Cinque Terre by a few minutes.
scatcat,
If you haven't already bought David Downie's bood for the region, I highly recommend (although I confess that one of his recommedations, La Palme in Santa Margherita Ligure, is not a favorite of mine). Instead of pizza in Vernazza, try bringing a picnic lunch from Pestarino in Santa Margherita Ligure. I recommend a trip to Chiavari and a meal at Luchin, Frigidarium for gelato is outstanding, one of the very best in Italy. A walk along the sea in Zoagli is great on a weekday at sunset. I'll actually be in the Salento then, but hope you get nice weather!
If you take a 9:30 train you arrive in le Cinque Terre right at lunch time -- which to me is perfect, because then you can sit down, take in the scene and assess what you want to do. It is also easier to arrive at lunch time and begin with lunch, rather than arrive earlier, set out hiking. and then find yourself scrambling up or down a cliff to make sure you get to someplace selling food before the lunch hour is over.
Were it me, I would either do some research and decide if I want an excellent Ligurian lunch, or I would bring a picnic lunch from Florence from the fresh food markets A first class lunch will run you 40e pp easily, and it is not worth it to go to a mediocre restaurant.
If you arrive in le Cinque Terre between noon and 1pm, you have at least 6 hours of daylight. That is plenty of time to see all 5 towns and even take a 2 hour hike plus a boat ride if you wish. Toward the end of the day, check out the cloudscape and make a decision about whether you want to hang around for sunset. If so, find someplace selling sandwiches and fruit etc, and take a seat somewhere.
Before you leave the US, print out a copy of the return train schedule to take with you that day. There is nothing worse than just missing a train in le Cinque Terre by a few minutes.
scatcat,
If you haven't already bought David Downie's bood for the region, I highly recommend (although I confess that one of his recommedations, La Palme in Santa Margherita Ligure, is not a favorite of mine). Instead of pizza in Vernazza, try bringing a picnic lunch from Pestarino in Santa Margherita Ligure. I recommend a trip to Chiavari and a meal at Luchin, Frigidarium for gelato is outstanding, one of the very best in Italy. A walk along the sea in Zoagli is great on a weekday at sunset. I'll actually be in the Salento then, but hope you get nice weather!
Apr 4th, 2012, 08:50 AM
#22
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zeppole
Thanks for the recommendations. I have been to Chiavari twice, but I have not eaten at Luchin. Where is it located? I probably have had the gelato at Frigidariums, but I tend to not pay attention to names. Location of it also? Is Zoagli accessible by train or bus? Hoping for nice weather!!!
Thanks for the recommendations. I have been to Chiavari twice, but I have not eaten at Luchin. Where is it located? I probably have had the gelato at Frigidariums, but I tend to not pay attention to names. Location of it also? Is Zoagli accessible by train or bus? Hoping for nice weather!!!
Apr 4th, 2012, 11:47 AM
#23
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@scatcat,
If you do a google search for "via Bighetti Chiavari" , google will pop you a map that pinpoints the location of Luchin. They are closed Sundays.
Frigidarium in Rapallo is located exactly opposite the short castle on the seafront.
Zoagli is the next train stop after Rapallo.
If you have a day of rain and you've never been to Nervi, it is fun to take the train and visit the art museums there (in particular the Gallerie d'Arte Moderne and the Wolfsohnia), plus have a lunch of foccacia col formaggio at La Marinella at the seaside (visible from the train station). If it is raining, you will definitely need an umbrella because it is a bit of a hike to the museums. But even in the rain, you can have a lovely view of the coast from there, and the foccacia col formaggio is a nice version of the dish.
But I hope you get nothing but sunny skies.
Be aware that local buses probably will not run on May 1.
If you do a google search for "via Bighetti Chiavari" , google will pop you a map that pinpoints the location of Luchin. They are closed Sundays.
Frigidarium in Rapallo is located exactly opposite the short castle on the seafront.
Zoagli is the next train stop after Rapallo.
If you have a day of rain and you've never been to Nervi, it is fun to take the train and visit the art museums there (in particular the Gallerie d'Arte Moderne and the Wolfsohnia), plus have a lunch of foccacia col formaggio at La Marinella at the seaside (visible from the train station). If it is raining, you will definitely need an umbrella because it is a bit of a hike to the museums. But even in the rain, you can have a lovely view of the coast from there, and the foccacia col formaggio is a nice version of the dish.
But I hope you get nothing but sunny skies.
Be aware that local buses probably will not run on May 1.
Apr 4th, 2012, 12:32 PM
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Thanks for all the info zeppole. I have never been to Nervi, so I will try to get there. Yes, I have had gelato at Frigidarium. I think I saw your recommendation before and I remembered the location. I love gelato and can live off it alone. I will track down La Marinella for the foccacia. Wish I were leaving tomorrow!
Apr 5th, 2012, 05:18 PM
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Holy Moly! 40e for lunch? Not on my budget. If I spent that kind of money on one meal I couldn't afford to travel. Anyway. We've decided to do the 5 Lands from Florence on our own. It won't save us $$ but will let us have more control over what we do there. Seriously, are we going to be gouged for every bottle of water, glass of wine, or plate of pasta?
Maybe we should just spend the holiday in Florence where we have a lovely apartment, a kitchen full of food and wine. And each others' company without being judged for being
(ugh!) "tourists".
We did France last April---wine cheaper than coffee. Ireland last June---a beautiful room and all we wanted from a 30-item breakfast menu for 32e. NYC at Christmas---dinner & cocktails in Times Square less than $40 each.
Last, but most importantly, when we get back to Florence at 10:02 PM will we find no taxis at the train station because it's the holiday?
PalenQ and jamikins tell me we can get up to Corniglia without having to walk the 382 stairs, but Uhoh-busted says "You still have to walk up 382 steps . . . " Who's right?
Maybe we should just spend the holiday in Florence where we have a lovely apartment, a kitchen full of food and wine. And each others' company without being judged for being
(ugh!) "tourists".We did France last April---wine cheaper than coffee. Ireland last June---a beautiful room and all we wanted from a 30-item breakfast menu for 32e. NYC at Christmas---dinner & cocktails in Times Square less than $40 each.
Last, but most importantly, when we get back to Florence at 10:02 PM will we find no taxis at the train station because it's the holiday?
PalenQ and jamikins tell me we can get up to Corniglia without having to walk the 382 stairs, but Uhoh-busted says "You still have to walk up 382 steps . . . " Who's right?
Apr 5th, 2012, 05:59 PM
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I did this 2 yrs ago - with a tour - and enjoyed it very much
We left from Florence via a van and the driver would drop us off at one town and pick us up at the next - We did the water ferry
which was beautiful and so glad we were able to capture the entire view from the water. We booked our tour through AAA - and found it very comfortable and affordable. Enjoy - yourself -
We left from Florence via a van and the driver would drop us off at one town and pick us up at the next - We did the water ferry
which was beautiful and so glad we were able to capture the entire view from the water. We booked our tour through AAA - and found it very comfortable and affordable. Enjoy - yourself -
Apr 5th, 2012, 06:58 PM
#30
You do NOT have to walk up the 382 steps to Corniglia. There is a shuttle bus that meets the train, and it takes you up the hill to the village. Piece of cake. They usually don't even check your ticket, but as long as you have your train ticket, you don't have to worry about any payment.
OTOH, the steps aren't THAT bad, either, if it's not unusually hot and if you don't feel you have to compete with the show-offs who like to prove what phenoms they are. (And they're the best way to justify that third scoop of gelato from the gelateria on the main street in Manarola!)
OTOH, the steps aren't THAT bad, either, if it's not unusually hot and if you don't feel you have to compete with the show-offs who like to prove what phenoms they are. (And they're the best way to justify that third scoop of gelato from the gelateria on the main street in Manarola!)
Apr 5th, 2012, 07:03 PM
#31
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If the weather is good we'll be there. That would be very cool, scatcat, to "see you there". My profile photo is with my sister-in-law and travel companion. We stand out in a crowd---I'm barely 5ft. tall and she's over 5' 10". I've only been using this forum a few months and I recognize your name. Thanks for your help---yeah, pizza is in my price range. Hope someone will get on and answer my other questions.
Apr 5th, 2012, 08:00 PM
#32
And no way in aitch do you have to spend 40E for lunch. Not even for dinner. You can buy fresh bread and tomatoes and cheese (or whatever you want) at one of the grocery stores and picnic. Dinner at restaurants is not big bucks either. CT is low-key and relaxed. It's not Portofino or Taormina.
Apr 5th, 2012, 10:16 PM
#33
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You definitely don't have to spend that much! You can get huge slices of delicious focaccia pizza for a few euros, that's what we always had for lunch...pasta was under ten euros in most places so don't worry!! And there is a shuttle bus to take you up to corniglia!
Apr 5th, 2012, 11:48 PM
#34
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It is certainly true that if you don't want to sit down at a restaurant and eat an excellent Ligurian lunch of antipasta, pasta, fresh fish or seafood plus wine, water and coffee, you do not need to spend 40 e.
However, even in le Cinque Terre, fresh fish is not cheap -- please allow the fisherman to make a living -- and the olive oil that comes out of those hills is labor intensive, to say the least.
People running a quality restaurant will be using fresh quality ingredients, and it is almost as hard to stock a pantry in such a rugged landscape as it is in Venice.
40e is a fair price to pay for excellence in le Cinque Terre -- and the unwillingness of many tourists to pay it is why I always warn people going to the Italian Riviera that if they want to eat well, they should lodge someplace else along the coast. Most restaurants in le Cinque Terre charte what tourists will pay, and the food reflects it.
Your best bet for eating well on a modest budget in le Cinque Terre is to bring your own picnic from the best markets in Florence. If you are staying in le Cinque Terre and would like to taste Ligurian specialties, take the 10 minute train ride to La Spezia.
However, even in le Cinque Terre, fresh fish is not cheap -- please allow the fisherman to make a living -- and the olive oil that comes out of those hills is labor intensive, to say the least.
People running a quality restaurant will be using fresh quality ingredients, and it is almost as hard to stock a pantry in such a rugged landscape as it is in Venice.
40e is a fair price to pay for excellence in le Cinque Terre -- and the unwillingness of many tourists to pay it is why I always warn people going to the Italian Riviera that if they want to eat well, they should lodge someplace else along the coast. Most restaurants in le Cinque Terre charte what tourists will pay, and the food reflects it.
Your best bet for eating well on a modest budget in le Cinque Terre is to bring your own picnic from the best markets in Florence. If you are staying in le Cinque Terre and would like to taste Ligurian specialties, take the 10 minute train ride to La Spezia.
Apr 5th, 2012, 11:55 PM
#35
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One more note:
You will be asked to pay for everything you consume in le Cinque Terre: You will pay a fee for using the fragile trails that are expensive to maintain for the millions of tourists who now descend on the region. You will pay the true costs of what it takes to fuel the ferries and pay the staff. You will pay for what it actually costs to bring bottled water into the steep cliff villages, and to take the trash back out again. If you don't want to eat the local fare -- anchovies, pesto pasta and fresh fish -- then you will pay what it costs to bring in pizza, meats, commercial yoghurt, etc.
If you are looking to pay what you pay in Times Square to eat, no. You will be asked to pay more.
You will be asked to pay for everything you consume in le Cinque Terre: You will pay a fee for using the fragile trails that are expensive to maintain for the millions of tourists who now descend on the region. You will pay the true costs of what it takes to fuel the ferries and pay the staff. You will pay for what it actually costs to bring bottled water into the steep cliff villages, and to take the trash back out again. If you don't want to eat the local fare -- anchovies, pesto pasta and fresh fish -- then you will pay what it costs to bring in pizza, meats, commercial yoghurt, etc.
If you are looking to pay what you pay in Times Square to eat, no. You will be asked to pay more.
Apr 6th, 2012, 06:47 AM
#36
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zeppole, again and again---you just can't resist lecturing us scum tourists who you seem to think very lowly of as invaders who come wanting something for nothing and spoil "your" environment. Pardon me for trying to stretch out my pension in order to see a few of the world's delights. (I'm sure this thread is not the place---but I am curious about your motives---do you come on this forum to discourage tourism?)
Apr 6th, 2012, 07:14 AM
#37
Zeppole clearly is the only person who knows anything. Feel free to ignore the suggestions given by anybody else here, no matter how many times we have visited or how much time we have stayed in CT.
Apr 6th, 2012, 07:39 AM
#38
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I don't feel sorry for you annettefly, and no, I'm not going to be quiet about this. If you wasn't for me, you'd still be plunking down $120 bucks for a bus ride to a cliff, so you can't be that broke. If I didn't want you to come, I wouldn't have helped you get here.
It's pretty obvious to me if it isn't to you that the beauty tourists flock to see in Italy is a beauty that they can no longer find where they came from. Not everything in Italy has been sacrificed to make it cheaper or more convenient. Things were saved at great cost and difficulty because they are old and have tradition and history, and are part of a community. That got lost other places, and it gives me hope that people still want to experience it badly enough that they dig into their savings and cross the Atlantic to get in touch with it again. They give up a day they could spend in Florence with the ideas of the Renaissance because this really does mean more to them.
Except -- except....
They really are dying for a Diet coke. Or a beer. Frozen shrimp where they come from costs $3.99 a bag, so what's with this paying 20 euros for what? Shrimp?????
So gradually, le Cinque Terre gets to be more and more what the tourists want even though it is what they are fleeing. Instead of appreciating what has been preserved for them, they are balking at the lack of conveniences -- "Climb all those stairs! Are they trying to kill us?" --- and the absence of discount-for-volume pricing: "Cocktails are how much? I paid half that price for twice as much in Times Square!!!"
I don't think I'm the one with the wrong attitude.
It's pretty obvious to me if it isn't to you that the beauty tourists flock to see in Italy is a beauty that they can no longer find where they came from. Not everything in Italy has been sacrificed to make it cheaper or more convenient. Things were saved at great cost and difficulty because they are old and have tradition and history, and are part of a community. That got lost other places, and it gives me hope that people still want to experience it badly enough that they dig into their savings and cross the Atlantic to get in touch with it again. They give up a day they could spend in Florence with the ideas of the Renaissance because this really does mean more to them.
Except -- except....
They really are dying for a Diet coke. Or a beer. Frozen shrimp where they come from costs $3.99 a bag, so what's with this paying 20 euros for what? Shrimp?????
So gradually, le Cinque Terre gets to be more and more what the tourists want even though it is what they are fleeing. Instead of appreciating what has been preserved for them, they are balking at the lack of conveniences -- "Climb all those stairs! Are they trying to kill us?" --- and the absence of discount-for-volume pricing: "Cocktails are how much? I paid half that price for twice as much in Times Square!!!"
I don't think I'm the one with the wrong attitude.
Apr 6th, 2012, 07:46 AM
#39
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LucieV,
Your suggestions about how to cheat on a bus fare are one I do hope other people will ignore, as well as adding to the ever-increasing fat by encouraging pig-outs on gelato.
You know, I haven't been lately, but maybe le Cinque Terre really is Times Square now. Fare-beaters. Obese Americans. Annettefly, don't worry. You'll feel right at home.
Your suggestions about how to cheat on a bus fare are one I do hope other people will ignore, as well as adding to the ever-increasing fat by encouraging pig-outs on gelato.
You know, I haven't been lately, but maybe le Cinque Terre really is Times Square now. Fare-beaters. Obese Americans. Annettefly, don't worry. You'll feel right at home.
Apr 6th, 2012, 09:24 AM
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Ok. I wasn't even aware I had an attitude. Sorry.
I'm feeling pretty humbled here---having been clearly identified as an unappreciative, cheating, whining, obese American. Could you just not help me anymore, zeppole?
I am not ignoring the helpful comments by you, LucieV, or jamikins, and others. If it weren't for you guys I wouldn't still be considering this trip, or participating on the forum. Guess I've fallen into the old trap---the bad kid in the classroom gets all the attention. MY bad.
I'm feeling pretty humbled here---having been clearly identified as an unappreciative, cheating, whining, obese American. Could you just not help me anymore, zeppole?
I am not ignoring the helpful comments by you, LucieV, or jamikins, and others. If it weren't for you guys I wouldn't still be considering this trip, or participating on the forum. Guess I've fallen into the old trap---the bad kid in the classroom gets all the attention. MY bad.
