Cigale's rainy days in Paris,
Feb 21st, 2006 | 10:37 AM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
Cigale's rainy days in Paris,
But the sun in her heart.
My plane arrived late and I was the last person at the baggage pick-up but my luggage was a no-show. After filing a report, a nice lady assured me it will be found and returned to my hotel. She asked if I wanted to have a loan of 100€ to buy necessities> I thanked her and said I had a change of clothes and toilettries in my carry-on.
My friend Jean had waited two hours for my late arrival but luckily helped with translating the report for me. I checked in the hotel but my room was not ready so stopped for coffee at the Mairie Cafe shop and returned to shower and change out of my jeans. I headed to an old favorite La Tartine, the oldest wine bar in Paris named after the open-faced sandwiches called tartines. The tartine I ordered had tomato red peppers and eggplant and mozzerella on Poilane bread. The house wine was served in a bottle(yes, a bottle!!)
After wandering around the area I tried to book a few places for dinner but they were complet that night But I found a place around a corner, "Le Fous d'en Face." I was seated on a cozy closed in porch with a floor heater. In a short time, Philippe Llorca started singing as he played the accordian. My waitor suggested I sit inside and enjoy the sing along with a group of regulars who welcomed me. I didn't return to my hotel til adter 1am.
The next day I watched the skaters at Hotel de Ville and than off to the Carnevelet and Picasso musées and the Place des Vognes. Dinner back at Tartine.
This day lunch at Tartine and the Willy Ronis exhibit and dinner at Bofinger. Beside me sat a couple who engaged me in conversation and kept sending me tastes of their various wines. Both were Analysists. He French, she from Nigeria.
In the morning I floated about the city. Unlike my friend, David (indytravel) I didn't make it to all the arrondisments to drink but I'm sure it was at least 11.
Mid afternoon my friend, M. picked me up at my hotel. We ate a late lunch at his local café in the Palais Royale and his partner S. joined us. We went to Deyrolle as M. had never been there and visited the church on Rue De Bac where I wanted to see the body of St Catherine who was buried and dug up with her body undeteriated. I'm a non believer. I think she was waxed over. Her flying nun cap covered her face but across from her was St Paul and his face was certainly not natural. We visited several places of interest to us and the two days I spent with M and S. were so much fun, I didn't want it to end. We had drinks up in "Kong." we had dinner at "Bouillon Chartier," drinks at "Harry's Bar." We stpped at the Boutique Yamamoto where their friend and neighbor worked and she invited us to an opening of a new branch of the pricey L'Eclaireur but this one to my disappointment didn't carry and Dries, only experimental new designers. but there was a secret room that you asked to see that had all kinds of curiosities for sale.
One night I taxed to Vincennes to dine with Jean and his wonderful family. Another night with D. and his very interesting wife, A. as Billy Holiday sang in the background. Heaven! Both men were wonderful cooks and not just pretty faces.
One night I dined with Chris(a fodorite and Traveler to Go) her friend and daughter. We liked our dinner(I had confit of Canard) and we were entertained piano and singing by the owner and a friend (Who only perform on Saturday but at my and Chris's teasing we insisted we hear him sing and much to our delight He did.) and conversations from them and another adjoining table, a Canadian couple. It was a fun everning at "un Piano sur le Trottoir."
The following day more museums and I went to Chanel's. On entering a lovely young woman greeted me and I bowed and said I was at the temple and would make my tres cher purchase of lipstick. She laught and brought me to the cosmetics, sat me on a stool, asked if I'd like cofee, tea, or L'eau. I had perrier. She selected what she thought I would like and painted my lips. I agreed with her choice. She gift wrapped it with a faux camilia and signature ribbon and in a bag again with a camilia pinned to it and also gave me a skin creme sample.
On to Longchamps where I'm to purchase a backpack for a friend who asked me to buy one for her. It was 58€ in Paris and $120.
in Boston.
On to Hermés where I bought a scarf. I also went back to Deyrolle to buy an under glass cigale and an exotic butterfly-like insect that looked like a fan, both for me. Macarons from Lenotre and Dalloyou to take back for another's request.
On th Isle St Louis, I sat outside at the "Brasserie de L'Isle Saint-Louis," lunching on steak tartare(excellent!) as I listed to a jazz group performing live on the bridge, I had hoped to lunch at "Taverne Henry1V" but it was closed til the 31st of February. So was the "Reminet" so I dined
next door to it at "Le Louis 1X" next door at
My plane arrived late and I was the last person at the baggage pick-up but my luggage was a no-show. After filing a report, a nice lady assured me it will be found and returned to my hotel. She asked if I wanted to have a loan of 100€ to buy necessities> I thanked her and said I had a change of clothes and toilettries in my carry-on.
My friend Jean had waited two hours for my late arrival but luckily helped with translating the report for me. I checked in the hotel but my room was not ready so stopped for coffee at the Mairie Cafe shop and returned to shower and change out of my jeans. I headed to an old favorite La Tartine, the oldest wine bar in Paris named after the open-faced sandwiches called tartines. The tartine I ordered had tomato red peppers and eggplant and mozzerella on Poilane bread. The house wine was served in a bottle(yes, a bottle!!)
After wandering around the area I tried to book a few places for dinner but they were complet that night But I found a place around a corner, "Le Fous d'en Face." I was seated on a cozy closed in porch with a floor heater. In a short time, Philippe Llorca started singing as he played the accordian. My waitor suggested I sit inside and enjoy the sing along with a group of regulars who welcomed me. I didn't return to my hotel til adter 1am.
The next day I watched the skaters at Hotel de Ville and than off to the Carnevelet and Picasso musées and the Place des Vognes. Dinner back at Tartine.
This day lunch at Tartine and the Willy Ronis exhibit and dinner at Bofinger. Beside me sat a couple who engaged me in conversation and kept sending me tastes of their various wines. Both were Analysists. He French, she from Nigeria.
In the morning I floated about the city. Unlike my friend, David (indytravel) I didn't make it to all the arrondisments to drink but I'm sure it was at least 11.
Mid afternoon my friend, M. picked me up at my hotel. We ate a late lunch at his local café in the Palais Royale and his partner S. joined us. We went to Deyrolle as M. had never been there and visited the church on Rue De Bac where I wanted to see the body of St Catherine who was buried and dug up with her body undeteriated. I'm a non believer. I think she was waxed over. Her flying nun cap covered her face but across from her was St Paul and his face was certainly not natural. We visited several places of interest to us and the two days I spent with M and S. were so much fun, I didn't want it to end. We had drinks up in "Kong." we had dinner at "Bouillon Chartier," drinks at "Harry's Bar." We stpped at the Boutique Yamamoto where their friend and neighbor worked and she invited us to an opening of a new branch of the pricey L'Eclaireur but this one to my disappointment didn't carry and Dries, only experimental new designers. but there was a secret room that you asked to see that had all kinds of curiosities for sale.
One night I taxed to Vincennes to dine with Jean and his wonderful family. Another night with D. and his very interesting wife, A. as Billy Holiday sang in the background. Heaven! Both men were wonderful cooks and not just pretty faces.
One night I dined with Chris(a fodorite and Traveler to Go) her friend and daughter. We liked our dinner(I had confit of Canard) and we were entertained piano and singing by the owner and a friend (Who only perform on Saturday but at my and Chris's teasing we insisted we hear him sing and much to our delight He did.) and conversations from them and another adjoining table, a Canadian couple. It was a fun everning at "un Piano sur le Trottoir."
The following day more museums and I went to Chanel's. On entering a lovely young woman greeted me and I bowed and said I was at the temple and would make my tres cher purchase of lipstick. She laught and brought me to the cosmetics, sat me on a stool, asked if I'd like cofee, tea, or L'eau. I had perrier. She selected what she thought I would like and painted my lips. I agreed with her choice. She gift wrapped it with a faux camilia and signature ribbon and in a bag again with a camilia pinned to it and also gave me a skin creme sample.
On to Longchamps where I'm to purchase a backpack for a friend who asked me to buy one for her. It was 58€ in Paris and $120.
in Boston.
On to Hermés where I bought a scarf. I also went back to Deyrolle to buy an under glass cigale and an exotic butterfly-like insect that looked like a fan, both for me. Macarons from Lenotre and Dalloyou to take back for another's request.
On th Isle St Louis, I sat outside at the "Brasserie de L'Isle Saint-Louis," lunching on steak tartare(excellent!) as I listed to a jazz group performing live on the bridge, I had hoped to lunch at "Taverne Henry1V" but it was closed til the 31st of February. So was the "Reminet" so I dined
next door to it at "Le Louis 1X" next door at
Feb 21st, 2006 | 11:13 AM
#4
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
at the Le Louis 1X. where I had one of two bad meals, but the huge fire that was burning was comforting after a long walk in a cold rainy day.
Too many wine bars to list where I would stop. Favorite meals were at La Guirlande de Julie on Valentine's day.
They were closed all of Feb before that day. This is on the Place des Vosgnes so after the lunch I dropped in on André Bissonnet on the Pas de la Mule who specializes in old instruments. He's a charming man I was anxious to meet after reading a New York Times article about him a few years ago. He was pleased to hear that and he sat down and played an old small cello that was attached to a keyboard and he sang to me. What a wonderful Valentine's day for me!!.
Other dinners: "Le Coude Fou" "Restaurant Tresor," "7Lezards"
food not worth it but pay for great jazz downstairs.
Favorite meals were at Le Dome du Marais, Au Pied de Cochon, Gaya, and an almost 4 hour lunch at "a La Tour de Montlhery" communal tables with two couples. One who took the train from Normandy because they love the food and are friends with our waiter's parents and the other who lived nearby. We discussed Bush, Cheney and BHT with lots of laughs.
Angelina's I had hot chocolate and a mont blanc.
Berthillon was closed but I stopped at many a café for a scoop.
amusing(to me) a salesman at E. Dehillerin put his name on a card and telephone number and asked me to phone him. Sure made me feel young!
When I went to Montmartre to see the Jean Marais sculpture of the man who walked through walls, I was impressed with the Abysses Metro stop. Never did I think I would like some Graffiti. Railings walls a riot of colors.
My Metro mishaps: I was so absorbed in trying to translate the French poetry written in haiku form and posted at the head of some cars, that I missed my stop. Another time, I sat up a bit to straighten out my coat so it wouldn't wrinkle too much after coming in from the rain but forgot the seat springs back up and fell flat on my antipasto!! and the worst incident was when I was on the last stop and didn't know it. Alone on an empty train. In a few minutes a driver came by and saw me. Smiling as if it's happened before, he told me to stay put, we were going back to the previous stop.
I went to revisit the parcs I like to see how they looked off season. I was surprised to see many people at them on these cold, raw days. The Monceau had an amazing amount of joggers.
On what to wear: Everyone but a few wore boots of all kinds, a large majority wore what I call the dough boy coat or jacket. Those quilted puffy things in colors black browns, some reds and Khakis. Many fur coats lots of fur trimmed jackets and wool coats, many belted. Scarfs, ornate or fur.
Jewelry lots of spidery designs of stones and pearls but also twine of silk or leather for simple silver neck pieces and bracelets. The latter in Hermés to inexpensive shops. Clothes were too frilly for me in all the shops and the few simple things were beyond my price level. "I love Paris in springtime, I love Paris in the Fall. I love Paris when it drizzzles..." sung in B FLAT!
Too many wine bars to list where I would stop. Favorite meals were at La Guirlande de Julie on Valentine's day.
They were closed all of Feb before that day. This is on the Place des Vosgnes so after the lunch I dropped in on André Bissonnet on the Pas de la Mule who specializes in old instruments. He's a charming man I was anxious to meet after reading a New York Times article about him a few years ago. He was pleased to hear that and he sat down and played an old small cello that was attached to a keyboard and he sang to me. What a wonderful Valentine's day for me!!.
Other dinners: "Le Coude Fou" "Restaurant Tresor," "7Lezards"
food not worth it but pay for great jazz downstairs.
Favorite meals were at Le Dome du Marais, Au Pied de Cochon, Gaya, and an almost 4 hour lunch at "a La Tour de Montlhery" communal tables with two couples. One who took the train from Normandy because they love the food and are friends with our waiter's parents and the other who lived nearby. We discussed Bush, Cheney and BHT with lots of laughs.
Angelina's I had hot chocolate and a mont blanc.
Berthillon was closed but I stopped at many a café for a scoop.
amusing(to me) a salesman at E. Dehillerin put his name on a card and telephone number and asked me to phone him. Sure made me feel young!
When I went to Montmartre to see the Jean Marais sculpture of the man who walked through walls, I was impressed with the Abysses Metro stop. Never did I think I would like some Graffiti. Railings walls a riot of colors.
My Metro mishaps: I was so absorbed in trying to translate the French poetry written in haiku form and posted at the head of some cars, that I missed my stop. Another time, I sat up a bit to straighten out my coat so it wouldn't wrinkle too much after coming in from the rain but forgot the seat springs back up and fell flat on my antipasto!! and the worst incident was when I was on the last stop and didn't know it. Alone on an empty train. In a few minutes a driver came by and saw me. Smiling as if it's happened before, he told me to stay put, we were going back to the previous stop.
I went to revisit the parcs I like to see how they looked off season. I was surprised to see many people at them on these cold, raw days. The Monceau had an amazing amount of joggers.
On what to wear: Everyone but a few wore boots of all kinds, a large majority wore what I call the dough boy coat or jacket. Those quilted puffy things in colors black browns, some reds and Khakis. Many fur coats lots of fur trimmed jackets and wool coats, many belted. Scarfs, ornate or fur.
Jewelry lots of spidery designs of stones and pearls but also twine of silk or leather for simple silver neck pieces and bracelets. The latter in Hermés to inexpensive shops. Clothes were too frilly for me in all the shops and the few simple things were beyond my price level. "I love Paris in springtime, I love Paris in the Fall. I love Paris when it drizzzles..." sung in B FLAT!
Feb 21st, 2006 | 11:35 AM
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
On one day friends drove up from the Loire and that night treated me to dinner at "Le Petit Prince," a place I know that many of you love. K.andW. are always great company and that always enhances the meal like a good bottle of wine
I stayed 15 wonderful days in the Marais and on my street I loved stopping in a wine bar/bookstore called "La Belle Hortense." nice jazz playing in the background. I'm sure I left out alot but didn't take many notes as I was on the go especially the second wek when a pharmacist gave me something to eas my pain. I became a dervish and walked miles. I hope you enjoyed this report.
I stayed 15 wonderful days in the Marais and on my street I loved stopping in a wine bar/bookstore called "La Belle Hortense." nice jazz playing in the background. I'm sure I left out alot but didn't take many notes as I was on the go especially the second wek when a pharmacist gave me something to eas my pain. I became a dervish and walked miles. I hope you enjoyed this report.
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Feb 21st, 2006 | 11:40 AM
#8
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
Thanks you lovely Ladies. Gormiki, I wrote a seperate thread on the museums and art exhibitions so it wouldn't be too tiring to type.
Scarlett, I saw a dog that looked like Tate.
Aggie, my luggage was in my room when I returned from that long singalong
Scarlett, I saw a dog that looked like Tate.
Aggie, my luggage was in my room when I returned from that long singalong
Feb 21st, 2006 | 12:00 PM
#10
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
Thanks Kathy, wished I could have stayed longer to see:
Musée le Petit Palais on the Av. Winston Churchhill in the 8th that reopened after five years but the lines were so long to see the paintings and film.
And at the Musée de la Publicitee on rue du Rivoli was a photographic show by Jean Larviere who is a wonderful fashion photographer who did many of the spectaculat publicity campaignes for Vuitton, Nina Ricci and others.
And the one I really missed getting to is the Couvent des Cordeliers in the 6th where they are now showing "La femme au Portraits" All photos of one of my favorite actresses, Isabell Huppert as photgraphed by so many greats like Cartier- Bresson , Doisneau, Lartique, Avedon and Newton, and many more.
Musée le Petit Palais on the Av. Winston Churchhill in the 8th that reopened after five years but the lines were so long to see the paintings and film.
And at the Musée de la Publicitee on rue du Rivoli was a photographic show by Jean Larviere who is a wonderful fashion photographer who did many of the spectaculat publicity campaignes for Vuitton, Nina Ricci and others.
And the one I really missed getting to is the Couvent des Cordeliers in the 6th where they are now showing "La femme au Portraits" All photos of one of my favorite actresses, Isabell Huppert as photgraphed by so many greats like Cartier- Bresson , Doisneau, Lartique, Avedon and Newton, and many more.
Feb 21st, 2006 | 12:43 PM
#13
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
Welcome home, Mimi. Jackie O sends her ruff-ruff regards. Were there many women walking around with bright pink purses? (inside joke)
Oh how I wish I had been at Hermes with you so I could shoplift.
Where was your best meal? What was your best wine? Did you go to Colette to shop? Was everyone wearing the Balenciaga coat trimmed in fur? Please....please........I am dying to know.
Cheers,
John G.
Oh how I wish I had been at Hermes with you so I could shoplift.
Where was your best meal? What was your best wine? Did you go to Colette to shop? Was everyone wearing the Balenciaga coat trimmed in fur? Please....please........I am dying to know.
Cheers,
John G.
Feb 21st, 2006 | 12:49 PM
#14
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
traviata, there was a special for Valentine's Day.
Feuiffeté d'oeufs brouilles, creme de ciboulette ou terrine de canard aux pistaches. I chose the duck terrine.
filet de daurade a la planche, jus au ginembre, risotto madras ou
salmis de pintadeau, gnocchis de chatiaigne.
I chose the daurade as I prefer fish.
and the choice for dessert was a mille feuille au chocolat over the parfait glacé a la framboise which I ordered with a moscato d'asti.
I had a bottle of Bourgogne Aligoté with the dinner and a suze as an aperif.
Feuiffeté d'oeufs brouilles, creme de ciboulette ou terrine de canard aux pistaches. I chose the duck terrine.
filet de daurade a la planche, jus au ginembre, risotto madras ou
salmis de pintadeau, gnocchis de chatiaigne.
I chose the daurade as I prefer fish.
and the choice for dessert was a mille feuille au chocolat over the parfait glacé a la framboise which I ordered with a moscato d'asti.
I had a bottle of Bourgogne Aligoté with the dinner and a suze as an aperif.
Feb 21st, 2006 | 12:54 PM
#15
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 24,359
Likes: 0
Mimi,
So glad to hear that you had a good time despite your trepidations before the trip! It's great that you had so many friends to spend time with--that puts a different spin on a trip, I think. I'm very happy to have you back.
So glad to hear that you had a good time despite your trepidations before the trip! It's great that you had so many friends to spend time with--that puts a different spin on a trip, I think. I'm very happy to have you back.
Feb 21st, 2006 | 12:54 PM
#16
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
Balenciaga, Colette was disappointing, not much merchandise.
Fur trim everywhere.
Great dog shops. Saw mostly yorkies and white dogs that looked like my departed Misha(Lhaso)
My favorite meal was a toss between Dome de Marais and Gaya.
Fur trim everywhere.
Great dog shops. Saw mostly yorkies and white dogs that looked like my departed Misha(Lhaso)
My favorite meal was a toss between Dome de Marais and Gaya.
