If one cannot travel until the 21st or 22nd, is there anywhere in Europe where the Christmas markets will still be in operation? Suggestions? How about where the city doesn't completely shut down?

No Christmas market but Amsterdam is open over Christmas - well the museums are in any case, and many shops will be open I expect on the 26h, even though it is a public holiday.

A quick google found market dates for Vienna, expect dates for Prague, Munich, etc. are easy to find:

http://www.wien.info/en/shopping-win...istmas-markets

My favorite city in winter is Vienna. While not a huge fan of Christmas markets, Vienna's markets have great ambiance. I found nothing I wanted to buy but enjoyed the gluhwein and brats. The pedsetrian streets are beautifully decorated.

I hear Strasbourg's markets are among the best, just to throw that in the mix.

Strasbourgs markets are open until midday Christmas eve. We had a lovely time there in 2008! I believe the town is pretty dead on Christmas eve and day, but most places in Europe are so be prepared with food or restaurant reservations for those days.

Here is our trip report and pics http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-france.cfm

Thanks for your advice. I have traveled to Vienna, but only once where I could catch the markets and New Year's at a hotel. It was indeed wonderful, but I'm not sure I want to repeat. Strasbourg or Amsterdam sound fun, and my husband and I have not been. I'll look into both!

Salzburg's is open until the 26th. The city doesn't shut down - last year we did the Sound of Music tour on Christmas and the Salt mines at Hallein on the 26th.