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Carcassonne - Do we have to?

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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 01:59 PM
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Carcassonne - Do we have to?

Hello all, well 2 weeks until we leave and final crunch time is approaching. Everyones input has been wonderful but with so many suggestion of must sees, I finally went out and bought a wall map of France and stuck pins in all the places on my list we will drive thru (smartest thing Ive done in months! - clarified the whole picture - thank goodnes!)
It resulted in confirming that Sarlat is perfect for a 3 day or so stop (as per I think Cirq's suggestion) and probably a night in Bergerac would be nice.
Because we fly out of Montpellier the second half of our driving IT is based over around St Remy and Les Baux so that we can see Pont Du Gard.
My question.. with all my pins in place.. Carcassonne is sticking out of the map all on its lonesome....
My map indicates the most logical route after Cordes and Albi would be to fast track it straight across to the west whereas Carcassonne is directly down.
I can see on the net it is wonderful but is it worth a big detour to fit it in? thanks again
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 02:05 PM
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Not if it takes you considerably out of your way. The Pont du Gard is spectacular; Carcassone is not in the same league, IMO. Save it for another trip.
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 02:09 PM
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I don't see why you need a night in Bergerac. The town is not that interesting.

Going straight west from Albi is not that fast, the roads are very tortuous. It probably would be just as fast to go south and take the autoroute around the Cévennes. Then you would catch a glimpse--even if you don't stop--of Carcassonne.
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 02:18 PM
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thanks for the replies. No we dont need to stop at Bergerac area but coming from Saintes and dont want to just wizz thru the whole area until Sarlat so will choose one night to slow and smell the roses. (decide as we go on that one where itll be)
Just checking my map seems to indicate that the D999 goes directly from Albi to Nimes as the straightest route.. maybe it is hilly, windy or slow this way compared to the autoroute.. is that right? Autoroute longer but faster than the D999? thanks again
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 02:24 PM
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I was disappointed in Carcasson. It was mostly shops selling shoddy tourist items surrounded by relatively modern reconstructions of the old walls, etc.

The view of the city from a distance is the best part, as those problems are not evident. The old city (Cite Mort) of Les Baux is far superior, and still offers the oportunity to buy tacky souvenirs.

You will be near the Grotte du Pech Merle, a wonderful prehistoric cave with real cave paintings and fantastic rock formations. Consider seeing it.

You probably also have the option of driving along the Gorge du Tarn, which has spectacular views. Get a Michelin map and look for the green edged scenic roads. I found the yellow Michelin atlas that covers all of France to be a great tool for trip planning.

You will be seeing the area at a perfect season. Enjoy!

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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 02:36 PM
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I had to click on your name to see if you were one of the people I've recently suggested to skip Carcassonne. I also agree that the best part of it is the view from a distance. We were not impressed with our stay inside the city. Stick with those other plans (although I'm not familiar with Bergerac.
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 02:57 PM
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I wouldn't bother with a stop in Bergerac either. It's an easy drive from Saintes to Sarlat, but if you want to break it up, stop in Brantôme.

As for Carcassonne, for me it holds great historical fascination, but many seem to be turned off by the souvenir shops and such. At any rate, you can choose whether you want to skip it entirely, view it from the lookout area on the highway, or spend time there. But don't be fooled into thinking that taking the D999 is going to get you to Provence faster.
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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Thanks for the input, think we will bypass it...as to which route..yikes just been playing with the route planner and its 24Euros tolls from Albi to St Remy de Provence.. so maybe slow is better.. ha ha..
Anyone any idea what the petrol (gas) price is in France at the moment.. may post this seperately
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 03:49 PM
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StCirq read my mind...I'd stay in Brantôme. We overnighted there and loved it and would go back to see more. A lovely setting allowing for a peaceful walk along the waterway to the monastary/floral gardens and the famous waterwheel (now a pricey restaurant). We stayed at the Hotel/Restaurant Charbol and were very pleased with our large room overlooking the river/bridge and the cuisine was excellent. Friendly and family run establishment.
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 04:08 PM
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thanks for the Brantome tip.. just googled it and it does look lovely but Im still undecided because I had the route coming down from saintes to go thru St Emillion and this would be missed if I take the Brantome route. What do you both think? thanks
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 05:03 PM
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Well, I'll tell you what I think but will also note that it will probably be contrary to what almost everyone else will think - and that is that, if we're going to skip really touristy places, well, St-Emilion would be right up there. Far as I'm concerned, there's only one reason to go there and that's to eat at Restaurant Francis Goullée.

I will concede that, as it's grape harvest season, it might be a fun time to be there, but other than that restaurant and the monolithic church, St-Emilion doesn't do much for me.
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 05:20 PM
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I'd have to look at a map, but we did drive through St. Emilion and ended up for two nights in the delightful town of Bourdeilles in a wonderful, but not expensive small inn built into an old mill. From there we visited Brantome and also canoed down the tiny river from Brantome back to our place in Bourdeilles. This would be a wonderful spot for a night.
Look at this website:
http://www.griffons.fr/us/index.html
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 06:20 PM
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St. Emilion had the same effect on me as Mont St. Michel or Carcassonne have on some others here...interesting architecture ruined by tourist traps. If you are really into buying wine (at probably inflated prices) then St. Emillion would be the choice. Othewise I would definitely prefer the more natural, laid back atmosphere of Brantôme. We were there in September and called for a room while 1/2 hour out on the road. Though others may not recommend it, we never had reservations out in the provinces which allowed us to be free spirits and go with the moment; just don't wait until 6pm to stop for the night! Have a great time and don't forget to give us a detailed report back.
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Old Sep 11th, 2005 | 11:33 PM
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Bourdeilles is also worth a stop for its chateau. You'll spend more time in it than in the abbey church of Brantôme.
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