Camino
Sep 18th, 2012, 10:12 AM
#22
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Yes I did use the two hiking poles. DH didnt like his and we packed them away early on but I used them until the end.
I think I was anxious to catch up and impatient and that did me in. Of course once the damage was done there was no going back.
I think I was anxious to catch up and impatient and that did me in. Of course once the damage was done there was no going back.
Sep 18th, 2012, 10:49 AM
#25
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I bought my poles in Canada. They are retractable. I had bought Black Diamond poles and the supports get loose. Thankfully I learnt that with my earlier use so took a small screw driver with me. Even when walking in my neighbourhood the poles give me a lot of knee support
I bought the Merrell hikers not boots and didnt need boots. I dont have weak ankles only weak knees.
I bought the Merrell hikers not boots and didnt need boots. I dont have weak ankles only weak knees.
Sep 18th, 2012, 10:53 AM
#26
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Emdee, that's good. Can you imagine if you didn't ??!!
Adrienne, I also have Black Diamond poles, mine didnt get loose. They retract, some poles are longer than others. Make sure you look at the specs to make sure they'll fit in your suitcase fully retracted. I'll see if I can find the model name and I'll post it.
Adrienne, I also have Black Diamond poles, mine didnt get loose. They retract, some poles are longer than others. Make sure you look at the specs to make sure they'll fit in your suitcase fully retracted. I'll see if I can find the model name and I'll post it.
Sep 18th, 2012, 12:38 PM
#27
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Wow, great report. Yet another bunch of peregrinos on Fodors! I'm helping some friends plan a 7-day camino and have found both your and cruiseluv's reports very helpful.
So I have a question for both of you -- how would you compare your nights "off the camino" in the casas rurales with your nights "on the camino?" My friends don't want to stay in albergues either, and it's sometimes hard to find private places right on the camino. I have found that some of the private albergues also have private rooms, and I've been reserving them places there rather than in the casas rurales like the ones you two stayed in. I remember seeing some of the websites where cruiseluv stayed and thinking they were awfully nice, but I ultimately decided that it would be more fun to be right on the camino. What do you think now that you've done it?
And just a couple of comments about shoes and poles. I've learned that it's important to try hiking shoes on late in the day after you've had a lot of time on your feet. What feels comfortable in the early morning when you wake up is unlikely to feel comfortable 25 kms later. The conundrum is that blisters are caused either by friction or pressure. So if your shoes are too big, your foot will slide back and forth and you'll get blisters. If your shoes are too small, the tightness will exert pressure and give you blisters. Hmmm.
And about the hiking poles. I used to check my hiking poles in a cardboard tube, until 2009 when Delta lost them. I had about an hour in Madrid to rush to an outdoor store to buy poles before my train. Since then I've carried them on the plane, strapped to my backpack, with no problems. I carry a light duffel bag so if I have to check the poles, I can do that quickly. When I arrive in Madrid, I send the duffel up to Santiago where it awaits my arrival at the end of the camino. Then I stuff it with olive oil and other goodies and put in my hiking poles and check the duffel for the trip home. The airport in Santiago will not let you carry on hiking poles. In the USA, it's more likely you can get them through because it's up to the discretion of the TSA agent. The regulations allow "walking aids" but prohibit "ski poles" so the question is whether the agent thinks hiking sticks are more like walking aids than ski poles. So far, I've not had a problem.
Looking forward to reading more.
So I have a question for both of you -- how would you compare your nights "off the camino" in the casas rurales with your nights "on the camino?" My friends don't want to stay in albergues either, and it's sometimes hard to find private places right on the camino. I have found that some of the private albergues also have private rooms, and I've been reserving them places there rather than in the casas rurales like the ones you two stayed in. I remember seeing some of the websites where cruiseluv stayed and thinking they were awfully nice, but I ultimately decided that it would be more fun to be right on the camino. What do you think now that you've done it?
And just a couple of comments about shoes and poles. I've learned that it's important to try hiking shoes on late in the day after you've had a lot of time on your feet. What feels comfortable in the early morning when you wake up is unlikely to feel comfortable 25 kms later. The conundrum is that blisters are caused either by friction or pressure. So if your shoes are too big, your foot will slide back and forth and you'll get blisters. If your shoes are too small, the tightness will exert pressure and give you blisters. Hmmm.
And about the hiking poles. I used to check my hiking poles in a cardboard tube, until 2009 when Delta lost them. I had about an hour in Madrid to rush to an outdoor store to buy poles before my train. Since then I've carried them on the plane, strapped to my backpack, with no problems. I carry a light duffel bag so if I have to check the poles, I can do that quickly. When I arrive in Madrid, I send the duffel up to Santiago where it awaits my arrival at the end of the camino. Then I stuff it with olive oil and other goodies and put in my hiking poles and check the duffel for the trip home. The airport in Santiago will not let you carry on hiking poles. In the USA, it's more likely you can get them through because it's up to the discretion of the TSA agent. The regulations allow "walking aids" but prohibit "ski poles" so the question is whether the agent thinks hiking sticks are more like walking aids than ski poles. So far, I've not had a problem.
Looking forward to reading more.
Sep 18th, 2012, 03:16 PM
#28
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We were on the Camino itself for the following:
Casa Marina only 1 km from the Camino
Rectoral Lestedo on the Camino itself
Casa Los Somoza on the Camino
Hostal Theodora on the Camino
I would do the same itinerary again. I loved the properties. They were comfortable and some were even elegant.
Yup I know about the shoes and the socks - all play a role. If only I had done some climbs before then maybe I would have realized... if only I had not wanted to catch up with the others....
Casa Marina only 1 km from the Camino
Rectoral Lestedo on the Camino itself
Casa Los Somoza on the Camino
Hostal Theodora on the Camino
I would do the same itinerary again. I loved the properties. They were comfortable and some were even elegant.
Yup I know about the shoes and the socks - all play a role. If only I had done some climbs before then maybe I would have realized... if only I had not wanted to catch up with the others....
Sep 18th, 2012, 03:25 PM
#29
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Day 6 Arzua to Santa Irene
I cannot remember too much of this day for some reason. We had a few stops but it went briskly otherwise. There was a bit of levity this day when a dog chased 2 pilgrims and everyone clapped at the rest stop. Before we knew it we were at our pick up point Meson O Empalme. Almost missed it and carried on the day went so well. I also became comfortable both with the hills and with my socks and slippers. Our pre arranged cab took us to the O Muino Da Pena a gorgeous renovated water mill decorated with antiques. This was the only day that our bags came late.
Dinner here was more fancy with delicate portions instead of the huge country helpings elsewhere. I think for the first time I ate most of both courses. My DH had a meagre helping of ribs but overall the food was good.
Next morning a taxi came and took us back to the trail
I cannot remember too much of this day for some reason. We had a few stops but it went briskly otherwise. There was a bit of levity this day when a dog chased 2 pilgrims and everyone clapped at the rest stop. Before we knew it we were at our pick up point Meson O Empalme. Almost missed it and carried on the day went so well. I also became comfortable both with the hills and with my socks and slippers. Our pre arranged cab took us to the O Muino Da Pena a gorgeous renovated water mill decorated with antiques. This was the only day that our bags came late.
Dinner here was more fancy with delicate portions instead of the huge country helpings elsewhere. I think for the first time I ate most of both courses. My DH had a meagre helping of ribs but overall the food was good.
Next morning a taxi came and took us back to the trail
Sep 19th, 2012, 07:44 AM
#30
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My sister in law had a moment too when a young man mooned her along with the girl he planned to moon!
He came over to apologize to her after and talked to her and my brother. I found that young people on the Camino very respectful and polite - I sound so old here - I guess I am!
Also on this day I noticed more garbage - bottles, cans bags etc. There were bins from time to time - why not hold on to your garbage for a mile or less? Okay I did throw an apple core into a field but i felt it was compostable, at least.
He came over to apologize to her after and talked to her and my brother. I found that young people on the Camino very respectful and polite - I sound so old here - I guess I am!
Also on this day I noticed more garbage - bottles, cans bags etc. There were bins from time to time - why not hold on to your garbage for a mile or less? Okay I did throw an apple core into a field but i felt it was compostable, at least.
Sep 19th, 2012, 10:24 AM
#31
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Hi Emdee, we also liked the O Muiño. I agree, we found the young people we met/ talked to on the Camino very engaging.
lreynolds, I found the casas rurales we used a bit too off the Camino. It added another layer of coordination for transport and reduced the time we had to "sight see" in the actual town. If I were to do this segment again I would stay on the Camino itself, maybe would consider one exception if I wanted to divide one stage into two days(but not 4 casas rurales like we did).
lreynolds, I found the casas rurales we used a bit too off the Camino. It added another layer of coordination for transport and reduced the time we had to "sight see" in the actual town. If I were to do this segment again I would stay on the Camino itself, maybe would consider one exception if I wanted to divide one stage into two days(but not 4 casas rurales like we did).
Sep 20th, 2012, 05:12 AM
#32
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Breakfast in all the hotels were the same toast, sweet rolls usually packaged, jam, butter, cheeses, meats fresh orange juice and fruit ( apples or bananas. This last place was the first time we say cereals.
I am somewhat lactose intolerant ( to some brands of milk only) so I carried my little milk sachets from my dolce gusto expresso machine at home as I know I am good with that. Lactose intolerance on the Camino would have been horrendous though I am sure DH had remedies in our voluminous bags!
I am somewhat lactose intolerant ( to some brands of milk only) so I carried my little milk sachets from my dolce gusto expresso machine at home as I know I am good with that. Lactose intolerance on the Camino would have been horrendous though I am sure DH had remedies in our voluminous bags!
Sep 20th, 2012, 05:24 AM
#33
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Santa irene to Lavacolla
We set out at 9 am when the taxi came to take us back to the Camino - gorgeous Theresa picked us up and my sister in law said she was the most beautiful and best dressed taxi driver she had ever met!
The terrain here was beautiful. Mostly walking through forests with moderate inclines only. At one stage we saw a man selling fresh strawberries - I looked longingly at them but didnt want the buy the bowl as they were too many. Fortunately another woman chanced by and I offered to share with her. The vendor was amused but packed our berries separately and I enjoyed the luscious and sweet berries as I walked along.
This area was the most crowded of the Camino. Besides seeing people we had met all along the Camino we also saw a lot of other people. Some appeared to be just walking this segment as they walked with huge lenses in hand and a bottle of water.
Finally I was walking with minimum pain and could enjoy the experience more fully. In fact I was feeling so good that DH and I decided to walk up to Monte Gozo thus reducing the last day's walk.
That night we stayed at the Pazo Xan Xordo a gorgeous propery a bit off the main path. The problem here was that they had no dinner available and nearby restaurants were only open after 9 for dinner. DH hiked to a supermarket and bought us some bread, cheese and wine - to us a perfectly acceptable meal. In fact when we were practicing for the Camino this is what we often ate on a saturday morning accompanied with a salad.
I had a chance to catch up on the internet here as well. Updated myself on the figure skating world (DH calls me a groupie) and posted on cruisecritic that Emdee would soon return to the Paul Gauguin board where I admit I am a bit of a diva!
We were filled with a suppressed excitement as we went to bed that night.
We set out at 9 am when the taxi came to take us back to the Camino - gorgeous Theresa picked us up and my sister in law said she was the most beautiful and best dressed taxi driver she had ever met!
The terrain here was beautiful. Mostly walking through forests with moderate inclines only. At one stage we saw a man selling fresh strawberries - I looked longingly at them but didnt want the buy the bowl as they were too many. Fortunately another woman chanced by and I offered to share with her. The vendor was amused but packed our berries separately and I enjoyed the luscious and sweet berries as I walked along.
This area was the most crowded of the Camino. Besides seeing people we had met all along the Camino we also saw a lot of other people. Some appeared to be just walking this segment as they walked with huge lenses in hand and a bottle of water.
Finally I was walking with minimum pain and could enjoy the experience more fully. In fact I was feeling so good that DH and I decided to walk up to Monte Gozo thus reducing the last day's walk.
That night we stayed at the Pazo Xan Xordo a gorgeous propery a bit off the main path. The problem here was that they had no dinner available and nearby restaurants were only open after 9 for dinner. DH hiked to a supermarket and bought us some bread, cheese and wine - to us a perfectly acceptable meal. In fact when we were practicing for the Camino this is what we often ate on a saturday morning accompanied with a salad.
I had a chance to catch up on the internet here as well. Updated myself on the figure skating world (DH calls me a groupie) and posted on cruisecritic that Emdee would soon return to the Paul Gauguin board where I admit I am a bit of a diva!
We were filled with a suppressed excitement as we went to bed that night.
Sep 20th, 2012, 05:53 AM
#34
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The Last Lap
The next morning we took our taxi to Monte Gozo to begin where we left off. The weather was brisk and chilly and for the first time I had dressed too lightly and left my trusty scarf behind. The terrain was all asphalt and road. I felt dizzy again and had to cling to DH a bit. Both of us had caught something ( I think from the Irish who were partically absent the night of O Muino). There were a lot of illnesses going around ( we learned this in Arzua), Novovirus, the flu etc etc. Whenever people gather together this is bound to happen.
Finally we reached the gate near the former Benedictine monastery with the mimic of Gandhi in front and walked to the Hostal Parador. They checked us in early and we rested for a while before going to mass for noon.
The Hostal was everything we expected and then some. It has 4 beautiful courtyards and the room was traditionally furnished with 4 poster beds and a beautiful seating area. Bathrooms were modern. The service was very good. We always try to stay in some unique properties old monasteries, palace hotels etc as a rule. The atmosphere here was wonderful. I understood that the room where they housed the dying was on our floor but I refused to visit it - I tend to feel overcome by places like that almost as though the pain of past users lingers there so avoid them as a rule.
At about 11.30 we went for Mass and managed to snag two seats on the side of the church. The Mass filled us both with emotion which was somewhat reduced by a lengthy sermon in a language which we didnt understand. And then the moment all were waiting for...the lighting of the botafumeiro came. It was a thing of beauty no doubt as it swung from side to side freely dispensing fumes of incense. Cameras whirred and people pushed, jostled and ran forward to catch the act. While I was able to appreciate its huge arc and the efforts of the men who do the work it was kind of an anticlimax in a way. At the end of it the entire church clapped.
Apparently they swing it when someone pays for it or on 13 other days in the year. We had a huge contingent of german tourists who no doubt paid for the privilege.
The next morning we took our taxi to Monte Gozo to begin where we left off. The weather was brisk and chilly and for the first time I had dressed too lightly and left my trusty scarf behind. The terrain was all asphalt and road. I felt dizzy again and had to cling to DH a bit. Both of us had caught something ( I think from the Irish who were partically absent the night of O Muino). There were a lot of illnesses going around ( we learned this in Arzua), Novovirus, the flu etc etc. Whenever people gather together this is bound to happen.
Finally we reached the gate near the former Benedictine monastery with the mimic of Gandhi in front and walked to the Hostal Parador. They checked us in early and we rested for a while before going to mass for noon.
The Hostal was everything we expected and then some. It has 4 beautiful courtyards and the room was traditionally furnished with 4 poster beds and a beautiful seating area. Bathrooms were modern. The service was very good. We always try to stay in some unique properties old monasteries, palace hotels etc as a rule. The atmosphere here was wonderful. I understood that the room where they housed the dying was on our floor but I refused to visit it - I tend to feel overcome by places like that almost as though the pain of past users lingers there so avoid them as a rule.
At about 11.30 we went for Mass and managed to snag two seats on the side of the church. The Mass filled us both with emotion which was somewhat reduced by a lengthy sermon in a language which we didnt understand. And then the moment all were waiting for...the lighting of the botafumeiro came. It was a thing of beauty no doubt as it swung from side to side freely dispensing fumes of incense. Cameras whirred and people pushed, jostled and ran forward to catch the act. While I was able to appreciate its huge arc and the efforts of the men who do the work it was kind of an anticlimax in a way. At the end of it the entire church clapped.
Apparently they swing it when someone pays for it or on 13 other days in the year. We had a huge contingent of german tourists who no doubt paid for the privilege.
Sep 20th, 2012, 06:19 AM
#35
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Dinner at the Hostal was included in our quote full three course and they didnt charge us for the water. The food was very elegant but was just ok. Didnt blow anyone's mind. I beleive the usual charge for the set dinner was E38.However, it was nice to eat in a nice restaurant and we didnt have very far to go ... just the basement. The desserts were more fancy and had greater variety as can be expected. On the way back to the room we lingered briefly by the immense doorway looking out on the Cathedral and square well lit up and looking gorgeous at night.
Sep 20th, 2012, 10:08 AM
#36
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Our last day on the Camino.
Breakfast at the Parador was a fancy one with some delish mini chorizo - both hot and cold buffet and everything else under the sun.
At 9.30 we were met by Manuel our guide around the old town and the Church. He was excellent just the right amount of information and levity.
A check out of the hotel follows and we soon piled into a taxi ( also arranged by Nativa) for a ride to Madrid airport and home to Toronto the next day.
On finishing the Camino there was a sense of emptiness as though there was nothing else to do. There was also a sense of accomplishment- the accomplishment of completion. I asked my DH whether he would walk another section with me at another time and he straight away said no - he had done it and that was that. However, on the flight back he had a change of heart and said he wanted to do it again in 4 years. Will we/wont we .... I do not know at this time. Each year there are more places to see, roads to ride but just maybe there will be some more paths for me to walk in my future.
Breakfast at the Parador was a fancy one with some delish mini chorizo - both hot and cold buffet and everything else under the sun.
At 9.30 we were met by Manuel our guide around the old town and the Church. He was excellent just the right amount of information and levity.
A check out of the hotel follows and we soon piled into a taxi ( also arranged by Nativa) for a ride to Madrid airport and home to Toronto the next day.
On finishing the Camino there was a sense of emptiness as though there was nothing else to do. There was also a sense of accomplishment- the accomplishment of completion. I asked my DH whether he would walk another section with me at another time and he straight away said no - he had done it and that was that. However, on the flight back he had a change of heart and said he wanted to do it again in 4 years. Will we/wont we .... I do not know at this time. Each year there are more places to see, roads to ride but just maybe there will be some more paths for me to walk in my future.
Sep 21st, 2012, 07:38 AM
#37
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Thanks for this report, emdee. It was good to hear the good and the bad experiences. I will certainly have to improve my fitness level and make sure to have the right shoes etc. My DH is also a physician (I wonder if we ever met at medical conferences in Ontario!) but he does not usually travel with much in the way of first aid supplies, so that's something we'll have to look into. I really appreciate all the helpful information in your report.
Sep 21st, 2012, 08:43 AM
#38
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Hi Emdee,
Thanks for your report, it brought back nice memories for me too.
If you're like me you'll feel that sense of emptiness from time to time (I still get it). Hope you get to go back. I'm planning, God willing , to go back probably 2014.
Your room in the Parador sounds much better that the one we got a few years ago. I think its a good idea to stay at the Parador at least once so you can get to see all the areas. It's like a museum.
Glad you got to see the Botafumeiro!
Thanks for your report, it brought back nice memories for me too.
If you're like me you'll feel that sense of emptiness from time to time (I still get it). Hope you get to go back. I'm planning, God willing , to go back probably 2014.
Your room in the Parador sounds much better that the one we got a few years ago. I think its a good idea to stay at the Parador at least once so you can get to see all the areas. It's like a museum.
Glad you got to see the Botafumeiro!
Sep 21st, 2012, 10:39 AM
#39
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cruiseluv, our guide told us that the emptiness is usual - he said that you have to see the camino as a beginning and not an end.
I dont mind the Camino calling me back but I hope its not as bad as the French Polynesian flu - as you know I have to go back all the time to get that itch assuaged!
I dont mind the Camino calling me back but I hope its not as bad as the French Polynesian flu - as you know I have to go back all the time to get that itch assuaged!
Sep 21st, 2012, 01:38 PM
#40
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I know you feel like that about FP, that's what I feel about Spain, most specifically Santiago (this is my first time walking there but I've been there 5 times). Like you say there are so many other places, but there's something to be said about going back time and time again to the familiar.
